Visit Uzbekistan Magazine 28th Issue

2021, №28 Interview with 12 Tourism Minister

Your Personal Travel Magazine of the 28 Tastes Fergana region

& Where 48 How to Get Sporty

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Founded by

Editor-in-chief Dinara Dultaeva Editor Megan Eaves Graphic designer Barot Rakhmatov Sales & Distribution Sevara Avulgazieva PR Department Innessa Anokhina

Life is going back to normal, somewhere slowly and somewhere more rapidly. Uzbekistan has already welcomed the longawaited first tourists of 2021. This edition of Visit Uzbekistan magazine highlights some must-visit regions of the country, unique experiences, people, and masterpieces to inspire you.

For the first time, we reveal some rare stories as Khovrenko Winery’s history in Samarkand (p. 20), local bread maker family’s photo feature (p. 26).

Beautiful Fergana Valley is in the focus of our magazine with such cities as Kokand, Margilan, and Rishtan (p. 28) – must-visit handicraft itineraries of Uzbekistan where you can purchase ceramics, textiles, and more. And, of course, it is worth tasting local delicious fruits grown under the favourable sun (p. 36).

As usual, we pay special attention to the arts. We introduce you to the modern artist – Nuriddin Rasulov (p. 34), as well as tell you about local music art – makom (p. 38).

On the gastronomy side, we wanted to share our favourite treats, preparing a list of the best open-air terraces of Tashkent restaurants (p. 42). Our good friend, expat Anna Martusevich, shared her first column on street food with some Uzbek delicacies (p. 46).

I hope you will enjoy travelling virtually with us through these pages, and the articles will help you plan your real visit to Uzbekistan as soon as you can.

Dinara Dultaeva

Contributors Luiza Makhmudova, Dmitriy Kostyushkin, Islyam Kabirov, Jamshed Safarov, Feruza Abdurashitova, Sabina Odinayeva, Dilnavoz Abdurakhmonova, Odina Ulugbekjanova, Manzura Tashmatova, Lalita Rassovskaya, Guzal Khamidova, Kamola Makhmudkhodjaeva, Anna Martusevich, Valeriya Galikhanova, Alexey Fedorov Photography Feruz Rustamov, Mukhiddin A Lee, Anastasiya Ivanova, Andrey Arakelyan, Kamoliddin Zaidov Visit Uzbekistan magazine

2021, №28 Official partner The Ministry of Tourism and Sports Dinara Media Relations PC Dinara&Co. Trademark Tel.: +998 (93) 500 55 65 www.dinara.co info@dinara.co The magazine is registered by Press and Information Agency of Uzbekistan on 12.05.2017.

Registration number №0915 ISSN 2181-9254 Printed by “Jurabek Print” Katta-Su street, Kibray district, Tashkent region, Uzbekistan.

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CONTENTS

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

ISSUE NO. 28

12 INTERVIEW: Tourism in Uzbekistan in 2021 and beyond Interview with the Minister of Tourism

17 HERITAGE: Crossroads of Religions Ancient Cults and Traditional Beliefs

20 EXPERIENCE: Samarkand's Khovrenko Winery How a man brought winemaking to the Silk Road

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ISSUE NO. 28

28 LANDSCAPE: Must-visit feature Kokand, Margilan, and Rishtan

34 ART: The Art of Unity One of Uzbekistan’s most talented artists, Nuriddin Rasulov

36 NATURE: Fruits from heaven The most delicious fruits from the Fergana Valley

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ISSUE NO. 28

42 GASTRONOMY: Eating Al Fresco Tashkent’s Best Terraces

46 STREET FOOD: Chorsu Gluttony Row Introducing a new column about eating in the streets

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17 ofCrossroads Religion

Your Personal Travel Magazine Art 34 ofTheUnity

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Chorsu Gluttony Row

COVER Photographer: Feruz Rustamov Model: Diana Yakubova Venue: Suzuk Ota complex, Tashkent

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INFO

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TRAVELLING IN UZBEKISTAN POST-COVID FAQs What you need to know before and during your visit to Uzbekistan

Common Questions Should I have a PCR test for Covid-19 Covid-19 and/or been vaccinated before travelling to Uzbekistan?

Yes, you should have a negative PCR test, issued up to 72 hours before departure. However, it is not obligatory to be vaccinated from COVID-19.

Can I visit entertaining complexes as amusement parks, sightseeing attractions, museums, theaters, etc?

All entertaining complexes are open across the country. Sanitary conditions at those places meet national requirements, including temperature check, compulsory wearing masks, and gloves for employees.

Do I need to wear a mask?

Yes, it is compulsory to wear a mask everywhere in public in Uzbekistan. But masks may be removed while dining or drinking.

Is hand sanitiser widely available or should I bring my own?

Hotels, restaurants and shops must provide hand sanitiser for guests; however, it’s a good idea to bring your own supply, as well.

Is there any kind of national track and trace scheme, such as needing to ‘check in’ via an app when you arrive at a restaurant or other venue?

Uzbekistan has not employed widespread use of a track and trace app, so you will not be expected to ‘check in’ at venues you visit.

Do I have to take an express-test at the airport before entering the country?

No, foreign visitors can enter the country without taking express-test at the airport if they have negative PCR test responding to international quality standards.

What do I need to know about taking public transport (any new requirements or changes to schedules/ticketing)?

All work, but passengers should wear masks etc.

Train and planes’ schedules are not fully back to normal yet

What happens if I get sick while I am in Uzbekistan?

If a visitor feels unwell and suspects COVID-19 infection, they must seek medical attention (via their tour guide/hotel reception desk or otherwise) and be PCR tested. Treatment can be both in a hospital or in another location, depending on conditions.

“Uzbekistan. Safe travel GUARANTEED” is set of measures designed to ensure safe stays for tourists in Uzbekistan. As part of this scheme, if a foreign tourist catches COVID-19 while traveling in Uzbekistan, they are entitled to up to US$3,000 compensation their treatment.

To qualify, travellers must be on an organised group tour.

If you contract COVID during your trip, the money will be paid to reimburse medical expenses.

Where can I get more information?

The State Committee for tourism’s official website has detailed information on COVID-19 for visitors: https://uzbekistan.travel/en/o/covid-19-in-ubekistan/ or contact to unified Call-center by number 1173 More info about flights: uzairways.uz More info about trains: railways.uz

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INTERVIEW

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Tourism in Uzbekistan in 2021 and beyond

Visit Uzbekistan sat down with Aziz Abdukhakimov, Deputy Prime Minister and the Minister of Tourism and Sports, to discuss what tourism will look like in Uzbekistan this year and beyond.

Text by Luiza Makhmudova

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What impact has the pandemic has on Uzbekistan’s tourism sector?

As with most countries in the world, the pandemic and the strict quarantine measures taken in connection with it, have negatively affected various sectors of the economy. It is worth noting that the tourism industry was one of the first industries to feel the impact of COVID-19.

The reduction in the flow of foreign tourists arriving in Uzbekistan with the complete suspension of tourism naturally led to a sharp reduction in the volume of exports of tourist services. So, in 2020, about 1.5 million tourists came to the country, which is no more than 23 per cent of last year's figure of 6.7 million. Exports of tourism services amounted to US$260 million, which is less than 20 per cent of last year's figure of US$1.313 billion.

What measures are being taken to restore tourist flow and attract tourists in 2021?

In order to mitigate the consequences of the COVID-19 pandemic and restore the tourist flow in the post-pandemic period, the country has adopted a set of measures to support the tourism business by further developing and restoring domestic and inbound tourism. A number of benefits and preferences have been provided for the tourism sector by presidential and government decrees. The government is paying special attention to attracting new foreign air carriers in order to expand the geography of international flights from Europe, Russia and the CIS countries, the Middle East and Southeast Asia, including China, South Korea, Japan and India.

Also, work continues to improve the material and technical bases of the tourism industry and to develop related infrastructure. As a result of the measures taken to support tourism, even despite the pandemic, 136 hotels were built in 2020, with a total room stock of 6385 rooms. We now have a total of 1308 hotels. At the same time, 478 family guesthouses were opened, for a total of 1364 guesthouses altogether.

The programme ‘Travel Around Uzbekistan’ was also introduced with the aim of developing domestic tourism in Uzbekistan by encouraging the general population to travel and take excursions. This programme has already proven its high efficiency in generating mass domestic tourism; at the end of 2019, the volume of domestic Uzbek tourist trips had already increased 3.2 times compared to 2015. The programme significantly stimulated the development of tourist services and the production of goods for travellers, and also improved the level of seasonal occupancy of hotels throughout the country.

In order to promote the tourism potential of Uzbekistan during the pandemic, virtual excursions were developed for 50 sightseeing spots and offered on the sites Uzbekistan.travel and Uzbekistan360.uz. Work continues on the creation of virtual tours to other attractions.

One of the priority areas in the tourism sector for the next few years is the creation of large tourist zones and all-season resorts, including in Bostanlyk district in the Tashkent region, in the Zaamin district of Jizzakh region, in the Namangan and Surkhandarya regions. There are also plans in place to create a modern complex for recreational, beach and aquatic tourism around the Aydar-Arnasay Lakes.

Along with the clear support for domestic tourism that has been implemented, have any wider lessons been learned from the ‘force majeure’ situation?

Of course, the situation with the pandemic has determined new approaches and solutions for the sector. For example, to ensure the safety and health of tourists, we launched the ‘Uzbekistan. Safetravel Guaranteed’ programme of sanitary and epidemiological security. All safety standards have been approved by the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC).

The standards include the best international guidelines for the provision of safe services to tourists in order to ensure the safety of their health during their stay.

As for the expansion of geography, in 2021, based on the epidemiological situation around the world, there are plans to add flights specifically to cater to pilgrimage tourism. These include 1500 flights from Indonesia, Turkey, Pakistan, Malaysia, Bangladesh, Iran and India, 240 flights from Israel, the USA, France and Russia, and 200 flights from Japan, India, Korea, China, Thailand and Buryatia. In 2021, we plan to significantly increase the number of flights to 18 per week from Turkey, quadruple the number from Indonesia, triple the number from Malaysia, and open connections with five new destinations in the Middle East.

At present, citizens of 86 nations can come to Uzbekistan without a visa, and work in this direction will continue in the coming year. The availability of transport is key in this, so from this year, we will reduce prices for aviation fuel and air

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Are there plans to develop other tourism destinations?

Some experts recommend moving away from the mass tourism model (particularly due to risks of environmental pollution, damage to monuments, overcrowding, safety issues, and low profitability of budget travel packages), and instead recommend developing conditions and iinfrastructure for small-group tourists that will stay longer and spend more.

As I have already noted, Uzbekistan has a huge untapped potential across the tourism sector. Focusing on domestic tourism and the implementation of the State Program will give a significant result in overcoming the current crisis, with the gradual involvement of foreign tourists and an increase in the tourist flow to the country.

At the moment, the Ministry of Tourism is actively working on improving the existing tourism infrastructure in the country, where, in order to attract new tourists, it is necessary to create new destinations and introduce new tourism products and services. In terms of solvency, it is very important to develop luxury tourism products, which requires improving the existing infrastructure, as well as the construction of modern, new tourist facilities with latest technologies.

At the moment, most visitors’ main requirement is a customised vacation, including specific hotel rooms, special types of car hire, tickets for events, reservations in popular restaurants, pre-orders for Spa & Beauty treatments, etc.

Tourists prioritise first-class flights, and the quality and variety of service levels. Private transfers on small planes and

tickets, launch additional railway routes from the Fergana Valley regions to the rest of the country, as well as continuing to improve highways and roadside infrastructure from Khonobod in the Andijan region to Termez in Surkhandarya and Moynaq in Karakalpakstan. Standardised service areas and service points are also being introduced along highways.

In previous years, in addition to traditional cultural and historical tourism, special attention was paid to promoting themed tourism around pilgrimages, gastronomy, youth, events, winter sports and eco-tourism. Which of these areas might be especially in demand in the context of the postpandemic trend towards ‘tourism with social distance’?

First of all, I would like to highlight pilgrimage and medical tourism. There is huge untapped potential for these in Uzbekistan. Consequently, in the coming years, special attention will be paid to developing these two types of tourism.

Together with the phased resumption of regular and charter air travel with the countries of Southeast Asia, the Middle East and a number of other countries with high potential for tourism, in 2021 we aim to attract more than 700,000 pilgrimage tourists to Uzbekistan.

Also this year, systematic work with target markets will continue for attracting international tourists around culture and history, extreme, mountain, medical, agro, ethno, gastronomic, rural tourism, etc. Priority markets include Europe, Russia and the CIS countries, the Middle East, and Asia, including Southeast Asia, China, South Korea, Japan and India.

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helicopters are very popular. Travellers increasingly prefer unique accommodation rather than traditional hotels. This can range from luxury hotels to a treehouse, monasteries, glass bubbles or a yurt in the middle of the steppe.

Also, modern tourists often plan travel around events, like sports competitions, cultural festivals and carnivals, concerts, major exhibitions, or recently opened landmarks. Also, it can be dinner parties with the participation of celebrities, writers, politicians, scientists.

In the direction of luxury tourism, Uzbekistan can offer helicopter tours around the country. For example, flights over the Aral Sea, over the Tashkent region, places of outstanding and natural beauty. We also need to offer special tour packages for ‘all inclusive’ resorts, such as the Bukhara Resort Oasis & Spa, Konigil tourist village and Heaven's Garden Resort & Spa. Also, we shall promote hunting tours in Bukhara, Navoi, Khorezm regions and the Republic of Karakalpakstan. Hunting and falconry tours is the most demanded type of tourism among luxury tourists.

Today, tourists are increasingly requesting activities related to nature and conservation. Based on this, we have accelerated implementation of infrastructure projects aimed at smoothing tourist flows and creating conditions for yearround recreation. These places incorporate environmental measures for sustainable tourism, such as the preservation of natural heritage, respect for nature reserves and parks and will be further opened for tourists in compliance with all environmental standards.

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How is niche tourism developing in Uzbekistan, for example, birding, golf, spa, astro/stargazing?

Here, one of the important directions in the tourism sector of the country is the construction of new golf courses.

Three projects have already been launched in Uzbekistan to create modern world-class golf clubs. In the very near future, three new golf clubs will open in the Tashkent, Jizzakh and Samarkand regions that meet international standards. That the golf club operating in Tashkent has won great global popularity, with many tourists, especially from the southeastern countries, coming here for recreation.

Despite the pandemic, the Bukhara Desert Oasis & Spa opened in the Bukhara region in 2020, as well as the new Silk Road Family Resort on the shore of Tudakul Lake. Also, 11 new recreation complexes have opened in large national parks and forests; for example, the Konigil tourist village and the Orzu Makhmudov food street in Samarkand.

Currently, the country is actively developing products for niche interests, such as hunting and fishing. We also have many reserves and zones for ecotourism, nature and photography, including birding. Interest in birds has always been high in Uzbekistan, especially aquatic birding. Back in 1971, Uzbekistan signed the Ramsar Wetlands Convention, and today 25 bodies of water in the country are classified as sites of international importance. They serve as habitats for many sedentary and migratory waterfowl and semi-aquatic birds along migration routes. In total, there are 469 bird species in Uzbekistan, about 400 of which can be observed regularly.

It is interesting to note that, before the pandemic, the flow of ecotourists increased significantly year-on-year, particularly due to ornithological tourism during the autumn-winter period, while earlier tourists had only come in spring. It seems like

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birding is particularly popular among Japanese, Romanian and Bulgarian visitors and usually forms the sole purpose of their trip. The age composition of birding groups is also quite varied from youth travellers through to retirees. Uzbekistan is quite attractive in this regard, since all of our reservoirs are open and free to visit.

Today in Uzbekistan there are more than a dozen travel companies engaged in birding tourism, and their numbers continue to grow. According to expert forecasts, ornithological tourism will remain a very promising direction in the future, too.

HERITAGE

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Dmitriy Kostyushkin is a Programme Officer and Translator at the UNESCO-supported International Institute for Central Asian Studies and an Academic Guide for Veres-Vert Travel Company. In this new series, Dmitriy reveals the ancient cults and beliefs that were practiced in what is now Uzbekistan, and shows the sometimes surprising ways they still influence local culture and tradition today.

Before becoming an important centre for the development and spread of world religions, in ancient times the modern territory of Uzbekistan was a place of great migrations for nomadic civilisations. These groups brought with them ideas about the universe and the nature of spiritual matters. Over the course of two millennia, several complex and ideologically powerful religions – namely Zoroastrianism, Buddhism and Islam – gradually gained influence in the region. But those early belief systems were not relegated only to archaeological finds and ancient annals. Look closely and we can see the influence of early cults and traditions across modern life in Uzbekistan, from handicraft and architectural designs to holiday and family rituals, healing practices and even language.

NAVRUZ Many modern religions contain unexpected influences from paganism, which have survived despite their

otherwise strict canons. For example, the Muslim cult of saints arose out of traditional, local, pre-Islamic beliefs.

Since ancient times, the agricultural population of Central Asia revered the elements and forces of nature. There were many fertility cults and related calendar and astral cults that became the basis for Central Asia’s most important holiday: Navruz, the Persian New Year. Sometimes called the ‘New Day’, Navruz falls on the Spring Equinox and personifies eternally resurrecting nature.

The celebration of Navruz on 21 March was banned in some periods under the atheistic Soviet regime, but nowadays it is celebrated at the state level in all Central Asian countries and is included on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. Few people remember the Zoroastrian roots of this festivity, and most modern Uzbeks don’t worship the elements of nature, but every spring, families and neighbourhoods happily gather around the fire on which ritual sumalak (wheat-grain porridge) – the traditional dish of Navruz – is cooked overnight.

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HORSE CULTS As in many primal societies, religion in ancient Eurasian cultures manifested itself mainly through the rituals of daily life, like preparation for hunting and funeral rites. Archaeological remains are the primary sources for reconstructing these ancient religious rites and beliefs.

Burial sites also show evidence of animal sacrifice, especially of horses, but also dogs and oxen. Horse sacrifice among the Sakas, who populated Central Asia at the turn of the first millennium, is mentioned by Herodotus, as is a water taboo and drinking vessels made from the skulls of slain enemies. All of these customs are found later among various Turkic peoples.

The Sakas also had a fire cult and a related cult of the sun. Herodotus quotes Tomyris, the 6th-century BCE queen of the Massagetae tribe, as swearing “by the Sun our master” and remarks that “the only god they worship is the Sun, to which they sacrifice horses: the idea behind this is to offer the swiftest animal to the swiftest of gods.” It is not surprising that solar symbols are still a popular adornment on women's jewellery amulets and, especially, in the motifs of suzani embroidery, which can be found in the remote mountainous regions of Urgut and Nurata in the Samarkand region. Likewise, images of heavenly, winged horses can be seen on the wall paintings of the 7th century found at the site of Afrasiab.

TOTEMS The totems of ancient Turkic peoples are preserved in several traditional rituals and customs of Uzbek culture, the traces of which survive in the names of Uzbek places and ethnic groups, folklore and ritual symbols. The most common totems were plants and animals, such as the wolf, bear, eagle, snake, goat, sheep, bull and trees.

As in the Vedic culture of the Indian subcontinent, the agricultural peoples of the East associated water – which gives fertility to the soil and has a powerful productive force – with the image of a bull. The earliest images of a Paleolithic bull can be seen among more than 5000 rock paintings in the famous Sarmishsai

petroglyph site in the Navoi region.

The image of a half-bull, half-man with a beard was also found on a fragment of a large vessel discovered in the TaliBarzu area of Samarkand. It is known as ‘Gopatshah’ or ‘the shepherd king’. The same character is depicted on a stone seal dating from the 5–4th centuries BCE, which is now kept in the State Museum of History of Uzbekistan. The first mythological progenitor of the Turkic dynasties, Oguz Khan, is also associated with a bull.

The wolf was another popular Turkic totem. According to Chinese authors, the words buri (wolf) and khan were synonymous among the Turkic peoples in the 6th century. Ancient myths often depict the wolf as the revered great ancestor of the Turkic tribes and so it was

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considered a sacred animal. The wolvish legacy is also captured linguistically in the names of two cultural groups: the Baiburi tribe (Uzbek-Kungrats) and the Baibura tribe (Karakalpaks). The Kungrats of the Surkhandarya region had a custom to place the teeth, nails, flesh or skin of a wolf near the head of an infant to protect the child from evil spirits and the evil eye.

The use of wolf amulets and talismans (tumors) is widespread across many Uzbek traditions.

Protective symbols are still commonly portrayed in traditional crafts like suzani, gold embroidery, glazed ceramics, carpet weaving and silk production.

While wolves were undoubtedly popular, the most dominant totems in Central Asia were snakes. A number of the oldest images of snakes in the world are found in Central Asia, including on amulets and on rock carvings in the Saymalitash caves in the Fergana Valley, at Kugart Pass in the Tashkent region, and in the Ilonsai Gorge (literally, ‘the Valley of Snakes’) in the Samarkand region. But perhaps the best example is the collection of spotted snakes seen on a 2nd millennium BCE stone statue from the village of Sokh in the Fergana Valley.

It is made from a piece of black chrysotile which was polished, drilled out around the bodies of the snakes and filled with plaster. All of these characterise the snake as a creature revered by early farmers, and associated with a female deity and ​​fertility and immortality.

SHAMANISM Shamanism was widespread in Central Asia and had an important place in the history of the Turkic peoples. The Turkic ancestors believed in spirits that provided help via shamans, known as parikhan, atakhan and momo. Shamans performed important deeds, having entered into a kind of alliance with spirits, devs (ogre-like monsters) and jinns (beings made of fire). They were often considered servants and executors of spirits, and along with folbins (fortune tellers) and some tabibs (healers), they were intermediaries with the spirit world. In addition, they could heal the sick, provide protection from ailments, find missing people or things, make

predictions about the future, and know details across place and time. They were also believed to guide souls into the afterlife and fight evil spirits.

Practical shamanism is still present in Uzbekistan. Traditionally, people believe that disease comes from the presence of insidious spirits. Today, there are still special individuals who are apparently able to connect with or remove spirits like the jinn and dev, as well as pari (winged spirits), lashkarlar (warrior souls), and chiltonlar (40 evil spirits). These modern-day shamans supposedly receive their abilities through ancestry or directly from earth and water deities or spirits. They can identify spirits that have harmed a patient, and have various methods to remove them and provide healing.

TENGRISM The shamanistic and animistic religion of Tengrism grew in popularity during and after the collapse of the Turkic Khaganate, which covered a vast territory from the Black Sea across Central Asia and China to the Yellow Sea. It centred around the sky-god Tengri – the main Turkic deity during the reign of Yabgu Khakan Istemi (552-576). Tengri was to the Turks what Jupiter was to the Romans and Zeus to the Greeks.

It was, in some ways, the acceptance of Tengri as a single, main god that subsequently created fertile ground for the adoption of Islam in Central Asia.

When Islam did arrive in the region, a transformation took place as it was amalgamated with local beliefs. The local population accepted Allah as the only creator-god, but continued to use the word ‘Tengri’ to refer to him, a practice that continues even now in some places.

Whether planning your first trip to Uzbekistan or revisiting different regions, it’s always a good idea to ask a tour guide or artisan about the significance of the symbols and patterns you see on handicrafts and buildings. And if you are welcomed to a traditional wedding, watch the ceremonies closely, for you’ll likely see whispers of ancient rituals. By digging a little deeper, our historical objects and archeological sites come alive through ancient customs and the curtain is pulled back on the many secrets and surprises of Uzbek culture and history!

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How one pioneering man brought winemaking to the Silk Road Text by Dmitry Kostyushkin Samarkand’s rich history and stunning UNESCO-listed monuments are no secret – Registan Square, the marvellously tiled Shah-i-Zinda necropolis and the old town draw people from around the world. In the colonial quarter, hidden among European structures from the late 19th century, you’ll find Khovrenko Winery, located in an old merchant mansion that belonged to Central Asian winemaking pioneer, Dmitry Lvovich Filatov. Today, visitors can explore Filatov’s mansion and visit the winemaking museum and tasting hall to sample Samarkand wines.

Winemaking in Samarkand Through the Ages The sweet wines of Samarkand have been known since the 4th century BC, when Alexander the Great conquered the city, then part of legendary Sogdiana. Although wine was prohibited for a period under Islamic rule, a number of those early artisanal wineries kept working, perhaps ‘helping’ medieval Uzbek poets and scholars to expand their creativity. The 11th century polymath Ibn Sina (Avicenna) later outlined the negative and positive effects of wine in his Canon of Medicine.

Modern winemaking in Uzbekistan began in 1868, when ambitious Russian merchant Dmitry Filatov planted new vineyards and started making wine in Samarkand. More than 150 years later, his winery is still in operation, welcoming visitors to tour the vineyard and sample its delights.

Dmitry Filatov had remarkable ingenuity and inexhaustible energy, and in the mid-19th century, when the Imperial Russian Army began its advance in the Central Asian region, Filatov got an idea. He was well aware of the needs of Russian soldiers and remembered the proverb: "War is war, but lunch is on schedule."

So he loaded up a caravan of camels with alcohol and literally followed the Tsarist troops under the command of General M.G. Chernyaev.

After the Russians captured Tashkent in 1865, Filatov was among the first to found a trading enterprise here. As the troops moved south and east and began to occupy Bukhara, Khiva and Kokand, Filatov followed, opening trading houses in all three cities that were designed to meet the needs of the first Russian settlements.

Using his experience in producing and trading alcoholic beverages during the Russian campaigns, Filatov decided to start making wine in the region on a more industrial scale. Not wanting to depend on suppliers farther afield, he bought up several tracts of land and established his own vineyards.

By 1900, his distillery was producing over 70,000 buckets of assorted wines. Filatov’s estate on Chernyaev St (modern Mahmud Kashgari St) contained houses, wine cellars and vineyards, occupying more than 40,000 sq m.

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studying winemaking in the Caucasian and Crimean regions of Russia. As a result of these trips, Filatov installed modern European machinery at his wineries, and introduced advanced methods and technologies for wine production.

A Tasting Tour BUCKETS OF WINE! Before converting to the metric system, Russian alcohol production was quantified in ‘buckets’: one bucket was roughly 12.3 litres or 1/40th of a barrel. At the turn of the 20th century, Filatov’s winery was producing about 861,000 litres, or 3826 modern barrels of wine.

Soviet Wine After Dmitry Filatov’s death in 1914, and the establishment of Soviet rule a few years later, the winery was taken over by scientist, winemaker and chemist Mikhail Khovrenko.

Khovrenko was the first professor of winemaking in Russia.

He systematised the types of wine being made, and cultivated several new varieties of grapes, which are still used to produce Uzbek wines. Khovrenko tested and introduced new technologies for wine production, and developed technological schemes for such vintage wines as Gulyakandoz, Shirin, Cabernet Liqueur, Aleatico, Uzbekiston and Farhad.

Over the years, the winery was renovated several times, and Filatov's caches were discovered, with reconstructions repeatedly revealing huge stores of the founder’s best wines.

At international auctions, Filatov wines are well regarded by connoisseurs and often go to collectors' cellars at high prices.

Today, Khovrenko Winery processes an average of 16,000 tons of grapes per year and produces several types of wines, as well as brandy and vodka. Several vintages are placed in special cellars for long-term aging, and individual wine sets go to auction.

The winery is open to visitors for a tour of the vineyards and a museum, as well as opportunities for sampling the wines.

The Filatov Winemaking Museum catalogues the history of the vineyard and Samarkand winemaking, and showcases the many international awards that the winery has won over the years.

A typical tasting session in the winery’s dedicated tasting room includes 10 sampler glasses, ranging from mild whites to a unique balsam made from a variety of herbs and only released every 10 years. You can toddle through the onsite shop, which offers all of the wines to take home at reasonable prices.

Uzbek Wines: Style and Structure With its dry, sunny climate, Uzbekistan is a fertile place for cultivating grapes. Across much of Europe, grape sweetness averages 14-18% sugar (fructose), while the varieties grown in the Samarkand region are on average 24-26%, sometimes reaching a maximum of 35%.

Not satisfied with only local varieties, despite the difficulties and considerable costs, Filatov imported and cultivated Italian, American, Caucasian and Crimean grapes in Samarkand.

Because of this, the winery has long used grape varieties like Saperavi, Riesling, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Hungarian Muscat. Filatov constantly improved the industry, travelling to France, Germany, Hungary and Switzerland, and

Dmitry Kostyushkin is Programme Officer and Translator at the UNESCO-supported International Institute for Central Asian Studies and an academic guide for Veres-Vert Travel Company.

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EVENT

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DIVING INTO

Uzbekistan Uzbekistan is one of the countries that can always surprise you during travelling. It attracts tourists at any time of the year.

Even if you have been or lived here, the country can surely offer you something new and different.

Of course, in 2020, the plans of all tourists around the world were changed. The coronavirus pandemic has influenced tourism everywhere. Uzbekistan, its historical places, and people were impatiently waiting for the improvement of the situation. When in October 2020, the internal flights and trains started operating again, after a slowdown, the life began to revive.

Taking into account the desire to travel and to explore yet undiscovered, as well as those foreigners and expats who stayed in Uzbekistan during the pandemic, the Visit Uzbekistan team decided to organize new special “experience tours”.

What is an “experience tour”? It is immersing into country’s history, culture, traditions, cuisine for a deeper understanding of a place and its people. It’s an amazing chance to become closer to the way of life of citizens and discover hidden horizons.

The first tour was organized in November 2020 to the Bukhara region. Then, the group travelled to the Khorezm region in December. And later, in February 2021, the participants were taken to the Samarkand region. The detailed programme of all trips was prepared together with partners of the Visit Uzbekistan magazine – local administration of the regions and cities, as well as Veres Vert travel company.

All these journeys took a special place in the hearts of participants and left longstanding feelings. We offer you to take a glance at these tours for your future plans to discover Uzbekistan with us.

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bukhara In November 2020, Visit Uzbekistan magazine and the local administration of Bukhara organized a unique experience tour to the ancient city. Bukhara’s rich culture and local ways of life left a lasting impression on the participants.

The itinerary was very rich on events and included a view of the unique collection of historic suzani and textiles at home of Akbar Khakimov, the opening of an exhibition of contemporary art at the Art Residence project by the Bonum Factum Gallery, and the Swiss Cooperation Bureau. Also, an exhibition of miniatures

by Davlat Toshev at the Usto-Shogird art school, a master class on cooking Bukhara-style plov, visit to the Bukhara Cotton Textile Cluster were part of the program.

To round things off, the launch event for a Bukhara-themed edition of Visit Uzbekistan was held on the scenic rooftop of the Minorai Kalon Hotel, which featured a MARU fashion show by Markhamat Umarova, Bukhara designer Irina Sharapova, the founder of the Ovation Fashion Theatre and the Rasulov dynasty of gold embroiderers.

Megan Fraser Australia “When I arrived in Uzbekistan in January this year, I was looking forward to exploring the historical cities of the Great Silk Road such as Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. Unfortunately, since the quarantine was on, I had to postpone my plans. Therefore, the opportunity to spend a weekend in Bukhara immediately inspired me. I loved walking around the old town, close to the caravanserais and to feel the spirit of history. I imagined how travellers of ancient times passed along these ways. I also was quite surprised to learn that Bukhara has such a thriving artistic community. I especially enjoyed seeing the beautiful miniature artworks of Davlat Toshev. My sister is an artist and I instantly thought that she should see this. I look forward to the day when I can explore more of the country in all its glory.”

Zhanar Sagimbayeva Kazakhstan “I was impressed with the exhibition of miniatures. In my opinion, this type of exhibition defines the future of this city.

Bukhara is famous for its crafts and it’s nice to see that young people are studying and continuing to create masterpieces today.

There are some very contemporary miniatures that reflect the thoughts, ideas, worries and inspirations of young people today.

Markhamat Umarova's fashion show on the rooftop really showed off the unique local fabrics and the creativity of the designers, as well as the ancient arts of gold embroidery. I would love to have these pieces in my wardrobe.”

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EVENT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

khorezm Ancient Khiva charms and attracts guests all year round. Visit Uzbekistan together with the khokimiyat (local administration) of the Khorezm region, organised a second tour to this historical city. Travellers had the opportunity to immerse themselves in the history, culture, art, gastronomy, and way of life of the local people.

Travelling on to the Khorezm region, guests learned to make traditional Khorezm dishes and local bread. They were given special access to the workshops of several Khivan craftspeople to observe the process of making the famous chugurma (sheepskin hats), papier-mâché dolls, intricate local wood carvings, and learned the art of Khivan puppet theatre. Guests also visited one of the ancient houses in the Ichan Kala fortress, where they were welcomed by the head of the house, Masharipov Odilbek, and taught the basics of the famous Lazgi dance.

Vera Afonina Russia “Most of all I liked the architecture inside the Itchan Kala fortress and the fact that they managed to preserve the atmosphere of the city, which consists of small streets. It is not for nothing that the fortress is included on the UNESCO Intangible Heritage List.

Everything is very authentic and you can immediately imagine how in the past it was all lively and flourished in bright colors. This is rare now, living in large cities, but sometimes you want to feel something real, for the soul. And from the kitchen we liked the ‘green spaghetti’ and the fact that we didn’t eat many dishes either in Bukhara or Tashkent, and that there were a lot of vegetables.”

Modestas Kaseliauskas Lithuania “In Khiva, I was surprised that, since ancient times, the city has been entirely preserved within the boundaries of the ancient walls, and not just individual monuments! I was also struck that this is a ‘city of the sun’ and its cultural roots go back to the time of Zoroastrianism. We have proved that you can visit Khiva in winter as well, but you need to dress properly and keep warm! It is also pleasant that this group of expats had already gotten to know each other well and enjoy learning Uzbekistan through personal experience. We are looking forward to new adventures with Visit Uzbekistan.”

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samarkand Inspired by the success of experiential tours, the Visit Uzbekistan Partnership decided to continue exploring the beauty of Uzbekistan together with expats.

Magnificent Samarkand is the historical capital of Uzbekistan. For many years, the ‘Pearl of the East’ has attracted tourists from around the world. In February 2021, Visit Uzbekistan hosted a tour to Samarkand and Urgut. The itinerary included: • Learning about Samarkand’s unique cultural heritage by taking in a dance master class at the El Merosi Theatre of Historical Costumes • Learning to make Samarkand-style bread in a baking master class • Visit to Khovrenko Wine Factory museum followed by a wine tasting • Learning traditional Uzbek sewing in a suzani masterclass, as well as ceramics at the house of Usto Numon Oblokulov • Visiting the Samarkand-Bukhara Silk Carpets workshop (Hudjum Factory) to shop for traditional silk carpets.

Visit Uzbekistan will continue organizing the trips to other regions of Uzbekistan for exploring their diverse nature, food, and cultural traditions.

Visit Uzbekistan magazine Tel.: +998 93 390 00 98 Web: visituzbekistan.co Instagram: @visit_uzbekistan_ Veres Vert Tel.: +998 66 233 61 26 Web: veres-vert.com Instagram: @veres_vert

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STORY

ANCIENT GRAINS VISIT UZBEKISTAN

STORY OF A SAMARKAND BREAD BAKER Text by Sabina Odinayeva | Photos by Feruz Rustamov Bread is one of the symbols of Samarkand. Uzbek loaves come in different types and sizes, each distinguished by unusual decorative patterns and unique taste. Numerous traditions dictate how and when to eat bread: for example, it is considered disrespectful to lay a loaf face down or to cut it with a knife. Long ago, it was a national tradition to carry a loaf on the head. In some families, this tradition is still preserved, such as in the family of baker Asliddin Khasanov.

Khasanov specialises in making heavy and nourishing Samarkand breads, baked in special tandoors. The tandoor is a boiler-shaped stove with clay-lined walls. The bread sticks to the walls and absorbs the oven’s heat. If one of the loaves happens to fall from the wall into the ash while baking, it is considered sacred.

“For the baking of Samarkand bread, the work of male hands is desirable. When you knead dough, you need strength. Well, according to tradition, only men were involved in making bread.”

The history of Asliddin Khasanov’s family bakery began with his grandfather, who started the tradition of baking Samarkand bread. Asliddin himself has been making bread since 1991 – over 30 years.

“I started baking on my own at the age of 14. That day my father died.”

The working day of the Khasanov family begins at three o'clock in the morning and finishes at 5-6pm. If they start baking at this time, then by 9am, the first batch of fresh bread is ready. Bread is prepared five to six times a day, depending on how many orders are received.

Asliddin Khasanov has five children – three sons and two daughters. The two eldest sons, Ibrohim and Normurod, help their father with the cooking process, while his wife and daughters help decorate the loaves, and their grandmother sells ready-cooked bread in the bazaar.

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A legend tells that once the khan of Bukhara asked his advisors why bread was brought from Samarkand to Bukhara, and if it could be baked in Bukhara. He was told that only bread baked in Samarkand would be tasty, but the Emir did not believe the advisors. He sent people to Samarkand to find the best breadmaker in the city and ordered him to bake bread in Bukhara. But the bread still didn't work out as it should. The advisors thought hard and racked their brains, and decided that the reason was because of the ingredients. They brought a tandoor from Samarkand, along with flour, water and absolutely everything that was required. But even then, the bread did not turn out the same as in Samarkand. Then the master said: ‘It’s probably because of the air.’ However, the air could not be transported, so soon he was allowed to return home, and people began again, as before, to carry bread from Samarkand.

27 Every guide in Samarkand knows the house of Asliddin Khasanov the baker. Tourists visit the bakery with great interest, watching the process of making a crispy, steaming Samarkand loaf. The moment of greatest joy is in taking a delicious piece of Samarkand home to share it with loved ones.

Breaking bread is like touching the history of the city, because the recipes have been used for centuries. This bread is famous for its taste and special properties that mean it does not harden for a long time. A real Samarkand loaf, kept at room temperature, can be saved and eaten for up to 10-14 days. Put it in the fridge and it can be stored for two to three months.

According to another legend, the bread was made to be longlasting so that soldiers could take it with them on campaigns.

The bread never became mouldy, and all that was needed was a sprinkle of water before reheating and the loaves would regain their original shape and freshness.

It is a special mission for Asliddin Khasanov’s children to continue the family tradition. “There is no secret ingredient in Samarkand bread. We make it from flour, yeast, water and salt.

It all depends on the method of cooking and, of course, the love put into this bread,” says Khasanov.

LANDSCAPE

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO KOKAND Kokand is a city in the Fergana region of eastern Uzbekistan, set along the lower reaches of the Sokh River. It is located at the crossroads of ancient caravan routes in the valley and, in the 19th century, was the seat of one of Uzbekistan’s three major khanates. With a population of more than 255,000 people, Kokand today is a relaxed town with several interesting historical sights.

It is one of the oldest cities on the Silk Road, rich in ancient monuments and delicately preserved madrasas. Craftsmanship is highly developed here, and recently the city was awarded the status of ‘City of Craftmasters’. There are a number of unique pottery workshops around Kokand, and it is a good place to find items made by artisans from neighbouring cities, including Chust knives and silks from Margilan.

Kokand’s History Archaeological excavations indicate that a large settlement with defensive structures at the site of Kokand existed from the 2nd century BC. It is obvious that the city was then already an important trade centre in the ancient Fergana state. Tenth century Arabic sources mention it as the city of Khavokand, which can be translated as ‘City of Winds’. At that time, the city had formed as one of the main trading points on the Great Silk Road near the borders of China. In the 13th century, Kokand was completely destroyed by the invasion of the Mongols, led

by Chinggis Khan, and underwent lengthy reconstruction for several decades.

But at the beginning of the 18th century, the leaders of the Uzbek Ming tribe founded their state in the Fergana Valley and the second ruler of the new dynasty, named Abdurakhimbai, made Kokand his capital, rebuilding it anew. Under Abdurakhim-bai, the Kokand Khanate significantly expanded its borders and even temporarily captured Samarkand. By the time of its occupation by the Russian Tsarist army in 1976, Kokand had become a very important religious city with many madrasas and mosques, and a leading cultural centre of Central Asia with hundreds of poets living here.

Under Russian rule, Kokand turned into a bustling industrial city with numerous textile factories, other industries and a regionally important railway station. It played a significant role in the economy of the Fergana Valley during the Soviet period, but regained its glory as one of the cultural capitals of Central Asia after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991.

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Kokand Khanate Sights There are many historical sites in Kokand, mostly dating to the khanate period (1709–1876).

Here are some of the city's most important khanate sights.

Palace of Khudoyor Khan The Palace of Khudoyor Khan (also known as O’rda) is an architectural monument built between 1863 and 1874 by Khudoyor Khan. The palace included richly decorated royal halls, harem and guest rooms designed in a mixture of traditional and European styles. Legend has it that the khan's mother refused to live in one of the opulent chambers, so she was moved into a yurt in the courtyard instead. Many buildings were demolished during the Soviet era, but 19 still remain. Since 1925, it has been home to the Kokand City Museum of Local Lore.

Norbota-Biy Madrasah The ruling period of Khan Norbota-Biy was relatively peaceful and economically prosperous for Kokand, which attracted many craftsmen and intellectuals lured by the architectural commissions and patronage of the monarch. Norbota-Biy launched the ambitious construction plan of a series of secular and religious buildings. The madrasah named after him was built in 1798 and for a long time was the largest educational institution in the Fergana Valley. It boasts a delicately decorated brick and blue tile exterior, a spacious archway and unusually massive towers. Though it lay dormant during the Soviet era, in 1991, the madrasah became active again.

House-Museum of Khamza Khamza Khakimzoda Nioziy was the first Communist poet in Uzbekistan and played an important role in creating new Socialist culture in the country until he was killed by stoning in 1929. His small house in Kokand was turned into a museum and now gives a unique glimpse into how people lived here in early 20th century.

Juma Mosque Kokand’s Friday mosque was built in 1812

by Muhammad Umar Khan. The mosque consists of a huge khanaqah (Sufi gathering hall) and 98 wide, carved redwood columns brought from India, as well as a 22-metre-high minaret in the centre. The mosque serves as the main place of worship in town and also also has a museum of applied arts inside.

Dahma-i Shahon Dahma-i Shahon was built in 1825 by Muhammad Umar Khan as a necropolis for the rulers of Kokand. He was a great patron of literature and himself wrote many poems under the pseudonym Amiriy. The beautifully ornamented portico of his mausoleum contains some of his verses, along with lines from Koran.

Modarikhan Mausoleum Modarikhan Mausoleum is associated with the famous early 19th century Uzbek poetess Nodira-begim, who was a spouse of Umar Khan (also a poet and patron of arts). The mausoleum was initially built on her order as a resting place for her mother-in-law (hence the name, which translates as ‘Mother of Khan Tomb’). But when she was brutally killed by the invading Emir of Bukhara in 1842, her own tomb of white marble was also placed here.

Getting to Kokand Drive The 230km drive from Tashkent goes via the picturesque Kamchik mountain pass. Plan plenty of time to linger over tea and take in the amazing vistas to the valleys below, and sample the local flat bread with qurt (firm dairy balls) from a roadside stall.

Fly A slightly unconventional route to Kokand is to board a plane to Andijan in the very east of Uzbekistan, enjoy few hours there and then hit the road westwards to Fergana, Margilan, Rishtan and Kokand.

Rail The four-hour train from Tashkent goes via Kamchik, cutting through one of the longest tunnels in Asia. Make sure to admire Kokand Railway Station, which played a pivotal role in the economic boom of the Fergana Valley in the early 20th century.

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

MARGILAN: CITY OF POETRY AND SILK

Text by Dilnavoz Abdurahmonova Tucked into the fertile Fergana Valley of eastern Uzbekistan is Margilan, a city known for its handicrafts. Margilan is truly ancient – the earliest written sources about it date to the 10th century, though its origins go much further back.

Today, Margilan is in the throes of growth and change. Modern monuments and skyscrapers have been built alongside its preserved historical monuments, which include the Pir Siddiq complex, the Khanaqah mosque, and the mausoleum of Hasti Maoz.

Located along the Silk Road, Margilan was undoubtedly an influential and important city, traditionally home to many artisans, particularly fabric and silk makers whose wares were traded up and down the Silk Road. Even today, the city remains particularly well-known as being a centre of silk weaving.

CITY OF SAGES AND POETS Margilan was mentioned by 19th century Uzbek historian Iskhoqhon Ibrat, in his book, History of Fergana, as well as in The Memoirs of Babur (Baburnama).

And it was in the Fergana Valley that an urbanised, Indo-European speaking culture (the Dayuan) encountered the Chinese civilisation for the first time. This exchange eventually led to the opening of the Silk Road from the 1st century BC on.

According to Russian/Soviet historian Vasily Barthold, Margilan was the capital of the Fergana Valley in the Karakhanid period (around the 9th to 13th centuries). The city is also sometimes referred to as the ‘Sanduk ulArifin’ (‘Box of the Arifs’– in Arabic, ‘arif’ means smart, knowledgeable and wise),

because many scientists and sages, particularly, Burkhaniddin al-Margilani, Uwais, Khazin Margilani, grew up here.

Margilan was also the hometown of Sufi poet Jahon Otin Uvaysiy (1780–1845), who was an otin (female scholar of Islam).

Uvaysiy wrote some 15,000 lines of verse (hemistiches)

CITY OF SILKS AND FABRICS Perhaps Margilan’s most-well known contribution to Uzbek culture is its production of traditional silks and fabrics. The city is home to the largest silk producers in Uzbekistan: Yodgorlik Shoyi Korkhonasi and Turon Shoyisi, as well as some 600 other small, private workshops and fabric factories.

In recent years, the demand for Margilan ikat fabrics (atlas, adras, shoiy, beqasam) has increased dramatically, with orders coming from across Uzbekistan and around the world. The city owes its reputation for high-quality silks to the fact that all aspects of fabric production happen in one place, starting with the cultivation of the silk worms, all the way down to preparing natural dyes with traditional methods.

Most tourists visiting the Fergana Valley want to buy Margilan atlas, and the presence of so many workshops means that there are ample opportunities to see how it is created and what types are available, as well as to meet the artisans and learn about their stories and family histories.

Several master artisan families also run guesthouses, including Nabijon Toshtemirov and Rasuljon Mirzaakhmedov (Ikat House, 133 Ipak Yuli St, ikatuzcenter@ gmail.com).

A guesthouse stay generally includes a visit to the workshop and a chance to meet and talk with the master artisans, as well as home comforts like a traditional Uzbek meal and cosy accommodation.

WHAT ARE ABR-IKAT FABRICS? The local name for ikat is abr (‘cloud’ in Persian), as the traditional patterns are said to resemble clouds floating in the sky or reflected on water. The abr-ikat fabrics of the Fergana Valley generally come in four varieties: adras, atlas, shoiybahmal and beqasam. These fabrics are made using ikat – a technique of bundledyeing thread before it is woven, resulting in unusual patterns, such as the classic Uzbek floral and geometric patterns.

Traditionally woven with a glossy silk warp, adras is a mix of silk and cotton, while atlas fabric is made of pure silk.

Shoiy is the finest (thus most expensive) type of local silk velvet fabric. Beqasam

is a silk-cotton striped fabric used for chapon robes and other men’s attire, but now seen only rarely. Each of these fabrics also has subtypes. For example Khon-atlas features golden threads and more vivid red-yellow patterns, while A’lo-bahmal is a rare bahmal velvet.

Colour plays a critical role in the symbolism of abr-ikat fabrics.

Brilliantly hued, these textiles generally incorporate bright pinks, warm yellows, dark blues, rich reds and so on. The dyes traditionally are created from various natural plants or the peels of some fruits.

The beauty and staggering colours of adrikat fabrics, especially in the silhouettes of Uzbekistan’s national costumes, are a favourite souvenir for many visitors.

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LANDSCAPE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Text by Odina Ulugbekjanova | Photos by Mukhiddin A Lee One of Uzbekistan’s most prized national crafts is ceramicware, and for that, Rishtan is a must-visit. About 90 percent of all of Uzbekistan’s ceramics are produced by a few thousand ceramicists from this ancient city. Many of these potters have opened local workshops where visitors can look, buy and even take a class in making their own piece of pottery.

Located in the Fergana Valley, 50km from the city of Fergana, Rishtan is deservedly known as ‘Central Asia’s Pottery Workshop’.

It is one of the oldest cities in the region, located on the route of the Silk Road, along which Rishtan ceramics were sent further afield in Uzbekistan and around the world.

RISHTAN’S SPECIAL POTTERY The main reason to go to Rishtan is to visit artisan workshops of various glazed-ceramics masters, as well as the Rishtan Art Ceramics Factory, where you can watch skilful painters and masters using centuries-old potting techniques in action. Ceramic arts are believed to go back 800 years in Rishtan, making it one of the oldest and most venerated pottery centres in the region. It was in Rishtan that that the special Uzbek ceramic painting style was first used, and during the Soviet era, the first pottery factory in Central Asia was built here.

Rishtan ceramics are most well-known for their special alkali 'ishqor' blue glaze, which is made from local mountain plants, minerals and crushed pebbles from the nearby Sokh River. The main raw material is a unique red clay found only in

Rishtan, and potting masters here have developed and perfected the technique of semifaience – a type of transparent glazing.

Typical pottery styles include big dishes known as ‘lagans’, deep bowls (‘kosa’), water jugs, milk vessels and plates, all decorated in the astonishing ishqor shades of turquoise and ultramarine.

A number of Rishtan families have been making ceramics for generations, though during the Soviet period, most of the pottery production was moved into state factories. Since 1991, there has been a huge revival in Rishtan’s ceramic arts scene, and several local masters have won awards internationally.

Rishtan pottery now graces galleries, museums and private collections around the world.

RISHTAN CERAMICS FAMILIES A number of Rishtan’s ceramic centres are open for visitors, several of which are workshops run by local families who have been in business for generations. Some also now operate guesthouses where you can stay overnight, take a masterclass, have a meal or purchase one-of-a-kind pottery to take home.

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Yusupovs A local ceramics dynasty with nine generations of ceramic masters and currently headed by the great master Sharofiddin Yusupov. Nicknamed the ‘Paganini of Rishtan’ because of his virtuoso technique, Usto (Master) Sharofiddin achieved international recognition in the 1970s, when he restored the secret of the authentic ishqor glaze. Although the Yusupov family strictly follows the old Rishtan ceramic school rules, they also introduced new interpretations of several patterns (almond, pomegranate, etc), and added green and purplebrown elements in addition to the traditional blue and white.

Find it: 55 Roshidoniy St, Dukchion Mahalla, Rishtan www.uzbekceramics.nethouse.ru www.instagram.com/rishtanceramics

Nazirovs The Nazirov family is relatively new on the Rishtan ceramics scene, but has already become very famous. He achieved early recognition after reintroducing ancient patterns and shapes based on archeological findings. But true celebrity status came after he began collaborating closely with traditional ceramics masters in Japan. Usto Alisher has also been awarded a UNESCO diploma and is a member of the Academy of Arts. His younger brother Bahtiyor and nephew Diyor also established themselves as high-level potters and together they continue the unique style of their family.

PRESIDENTIAL VISIT In February 2021, Uzbekistan’s President, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, visited Rishtan to see the workshops of local ceramics masters and visit the International Ceramics Center (9 Tuqimachi St, next to the textile factory). It is a complex of two-storey workshops where 20 ceramics masters can work and live with their families, along with a dedicated gallery for exhibitions and sales.

Find it: Babur Str 50, Rishtan www.instagram.com/alisher.nazirov

Kamilovs The Kamilov dynasty began in the early 19th century with the legendary Abdullo Kulol, who is considered the ‘teacher of all potters in the Fergana Valley’. His grandson, Ibrohim Kamilov (1928-2002), became the most prominent ceramics master in Rishtan during the Soviet era. His son, Ismail Kamilov, now represents the eighth generation of this celebrated dynasty and produces the traditional ishqor ceramics strictly following the family style and methods.

Find it: 30 B. Hafizov St, Rishtan

Usmanovs The Usmanov family is a newer Rishtan dynasty, led by the world-renowned Rustam Usmanov. After graduating from the Tashkent Institute of Fine Arts in 1980, in just a few years, he rose to become an Usto-naqqosh (master-painter). Opened in 1997, the Usmanov workshop is a must-visit thanks to its vast collection of ceramics made by historic and contemporary masters.

Find it: 230 Ar Roshidoniy St, Rishtan www.facebook.com/usmanovsworkshop

BEYOND CERAMICS: WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN RISHTAN Plov Teahouse In a famous Plov Teahouse, food and tea are enjoyed on one of the topchan sofas over the river. On the menu are a large variety of different teas, but the main dish is plov, prepared with special ‘chungara’ rice grown in the Fergana Valley.

Sohibi Hidoya Buried two metres underneath the Sohibi Hidoya cemetery, archaeologists uncovered the remains of a settlement with a large number of different kinds of ceramics, bronze, and glass items dating from the 9th 12th centuries.

Mosque Khoja Ilgor The Mosque Khoja Ilgor was built in the 19th century and is famous for its rich, brilliantly colourful ceilings, with perennial planes and other trees shading the grounds.

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ART

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

The Art of Unity One of Uzbekistan’s most talented young artists, Nuriddin Rasulov, goes from strength to strength Text by Manzura Tashmatova

It was Nuriddin Rasulov’s father who first noticed his artistic abilities, and took him to the workshop of Mukharram Ibragimova, Uzbekistan’s foremost woodcarving master. It happened that the workshop was located quite near their house, and this is where Rasulov made his first steps into the world of woodcarving.

Plunging headfirst into the creative process, he fell in love with the ornate patterns, the smell of the wood, the sound of the hammers – the whole atmosphere of the workshop. The first box Rasulov made became his prized piece; through creating it, he experienced the struggles of the craft and discovered that only through patience and hard work would he achieve results in life.

It wasn’t always easy; Rasulov says he had to work hard to develop his talent, and that it was his passion and dedication that got him to where he is today.

In 2003, Rasulov entered the history department at the National Institute of Arts and Design Kamoliddi Bezhod (named after the 15th century Persian miniature painter). A year later, he began a professional career at the Gallery of Fine Arts of the National Bank of Uzbekistan. Working in the gallery gave him invaluable experience and kickstarted his creative path toward his life as an artist.

In 2008, Rasulov became a member of a group of young Uzbek artists known as "5 + 1", formed with his colleagues from the National Bank Gallery. Eleven years on from its formation, this creative group of artists continue to show their works in numerous exhibitions and are respected additions to the international art community.

Nuriddin Rasulov was the first to integrate the applied art of woodcarving into contemporary art. His first large-scale project was a giant labyrinth installation called The Dirty World. The installation was huge and formed an interactive environment where observers entered the maze through a door and walked along its corridors, where the walls were covered in islimi, or ‘Arabesque’, a form of detailed floral patterning. The structure of the labyrinth was built on an increasing basis, starting with a sketch, and then gradually adding depth and volume to the lines. The final result was a piece of decorative art symbolising an individual’s life path.

The labyrinth along which the viewer moved represented the road of life along which each person walks, observes and develops, often unaware of how quickly time passes. As it was a labyrinth, there were several paths that the viewer could take, one leading to a dead end, another to the exit. The symbolism of the work was interactive, leading the viewer to question how to find the right path, or getting lost in the intricacies and events along the way.

Nuriddin’s message was simple: life is like a labyrinth – everyone has their own path and the right to choose.

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Nuriddin Rasulov's creative biography is extensive and he is a regular participant in and giver of seminars, masterclasses, lectures, and conferences on his craft. He is an active participant projects by curators such as Kamola Akilova (Doctor of Art History), academicians Akbar Khakimov and Nigora Akhmedova (Doctor of Art History), and he works with the art critics of the NBU Gallery of Fine Arts.

In 2013, at the VII Tashkent International Biennale, Rasulov presented a new installation – Gravity – as part of a project called, “Measurement of the invisible world", curated by Gayane Umerova. The installation consisted of wooden ‘canvas’ faces, each part intricately carved out using traditional Islimi and Girih (Persian geometric patterning). Lighting was used to create a magical atmosphere of playful shadows within the floral and geometric patterns. The piece was awarded "Best Youth Project" at the biennale and, as a result, Rasulov was invited to participate in the 5th International Biennale in Thessaloniki, Greece in 2015, where he showed his Flower of Hope installation, a piece that appealed to human feelings.

In 2016, Rasulov took part in the International Contemporary Art Festival, where he presented the installation, The Theory of Unity. This conceptual piece offered the artist’s theory of unity and placed a call on humanity for mutual understanding. Using links of carved wooden strips assembled into a single structure, the work depicted the interconnectedness of all countries and peoples. Conflicts cause disagreements, disagreements give rise to threats, and threats are dangerous to all of humanity. In this way, a single link on its own may be weak and vulnerable, but the strength of humanity lies in unity, love and harmony. The work resonated with the audience and Rasulov was subsequently invited to take it to the 1st International Festival of Decorative and Applied Arts, which was held in Tashkent in November 2017.

Rasulov is always in search of new ideas and non-standard concepts for his works. He approaches each project vigorously,

35 studying the topic thoroughly, thinking and experimenting.

Always reinventing himself, he uses new methods and synthesises the foundations of applied art with the practical, continuously creating new platforms for his creativity.

In recent years, Nuriddin Rasulov has been experimenting with new creative mediums, such as painting, and trying to work in fresh directions like abstraction, expressionism and minimalism. His paintings bring together amazing harmonies of colour, and incorporate signature bold brushstrokes. The images he depicts in his paintings are abstract but still manage to portray the artist’s common themes of creativity and forwardthinking, often evoking natural surroundings: a fresh breeze, spacious distance, the sound and undulations of sea waves.

In 2016, Rasumov’s first solo exhibition – Melody of the Soul – was held at the Kamaliddin Bekhzad Memorial Garden Museum at the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan. Art critics and viewers warmly welcomed the chance to get acquainted with the works of such a young yet accomplished artist. And at the VIII Tashkent International Biennale of Contemporary Art, held in October 2018, Rasulov was awarded a gold medal.

A life of further success and new creative achievements is clearly on the horizon for Nuriddin Rasulov – the only question is: what will he do next?

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NATURE

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Fruits from heaven:

FERGANA VALLEY

Text by Lalita Rassovskaya In the far southeast of Uzbekistan lies a triangle of low, fertile valley. Encircled on three sides by the western reaches of the Tien Shan Mountains, the broad Fergana Valley sweeps across Uzbekistan and into western Kyrgyzstan and northern Tajikistan.

In 329 BC, Alexander the Great’s armies marched into Fergana and founded the city of Alexandria Eschate (modernday Khujand in Tajikistan) on the southern bank of the Syr Darya river. Chinggis Khan, Timur and the Soviets all later took turns ruling parts of it. Even in the 16th century Letters of Babur, the Mughal emperor praised Fergana and its fruits: “How can you forget the beauty of this region? Even if you feel a little sad, here you can taste the sweet gifts of nature, such as melons and grapes, and immediately feel better, as if your strength has been boosted and fatigue has disappeared.”

Today, the Fergana Valley is as important a part of Central Asia as it was those centuries ago, and for the same reason: it is a rich, fertile oasis in the midst of inhospitable desert landscapes and towering mountains in every direction.

Fed by the convergence of two rivers into the mighty Syr Darya, the valley is a warm and welcoming place abundant with fruits and vegetables. The region today is popular for its unique cultures and traditions, numerous recreational areas and especially its rare fruit varieties. Fergana fruits are special and sought-after, and the region’s fresh fruit is exported as far afield as Russia, Armenia and South Korea.

Within Uzbekistan, the Fergana region is further divided into three provinces – Andijan, Namangan and Fergana. Each

local area is known for particular fruit specialties, such as apples, apricots, grapes and melons. The harvest season starts in early autumn and by September the valley is overflowing with fruit, making this the best time of year to visit.

The secret to what makes Fergana fruit so special lies in the particular cultivation and production techniques used for centuries by local farmers. Ancient methods of dried fruit production in Fergana have survived to the present. For example, this is the only place in the world where you’ll find dried apricots stuffed with peeled apricot kernels (this delicacy should be eaten sparingly, as apricot seeds contain the plant toxin amygdalin, which converts to cyanide after ingestion).

Farming is a way of life for the people of Fergana – a local saying goes: “Don’t let the ground just stay without planting anything”. Every patch of ground here is given over to vegetable gardens or orchards. Agriculture is a huge part of the local culture. Homes are brimming with flowers and indoor plants, and even apartment complexes and multistory houses have balconies overflowing with cherry tomatoes and backyard planters full of vegetables and fruits. The Fergana Valley is, quite literally, a huge heavenly garden.

Locals may be heard to boast about Fergana fruits being first-rate and they are right. Farmers here don’t use chemicals, so all fruits grown here are natural and organic, and the proof is in the rich and juicy flavours.

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BEST FERGANA FRUITS APRICOTS

GRAPES

Fergana apricots are famous for their juiciness and sweet flavour. Apricots are enjoyed fresh or dried, and are sometimes used in traditional Uzbek dishes, such as plov or shavlya, a dish made with rice, meat and vegetables.

The landscapes of the Fergana Valley are covered in vineyards – whole avenues of grapes line houses and streets, providing both crops and shade from the sun. Grapes varieties cultivated here include the Lady Finger and Shirin Shakar (both table grapes for eating), as well as other hyper-local grapes used for making wine and spirits.

APPLES Apples are grown in Namangan in the northern part of the Fergana Valley, where the soil and climate are very suitable for cultivating this kind of fruit. Namangan apples are known for being especially juicy.

POMEGRANATES Very popular in the Fergana Valley, pomegranates are mainly grown in the Quva district (in the south near the Tajik border), where they are known for their large size. The seeds are enjoyed fresh or added to traditional dishes, like plov.

MELONS Delicious, hearty and rich in nutrients, melons are ubiquitous in Fergana. There are many varieties of melons that are totally unique to Central Asia or the Fergana Valley itself, including khandalak, amiri, toshloki and umirboki. Local wisdom says that melons offer many health benefits, from increased blood circulation and skin hydration to breaking down kidney, bladder and gallstones and helping to cleanse the body as a whole. Melon seeds are even said to help with sunstroke.

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MUSIC

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

PA L A T I A L M E L O D I E S Text by Guzal Khamidova

Maqom. Arabic ‫ماقم‬, Turkish makam, Azerbaijani mougham, Uzbek maqôm, Uighur mouqâm. These words all come from the Arabic ‫ماقم‬, whose literary meaning is ‘place, space, high degree, height’. Together they represent one of Central Asia’s most important and storied musical traditions.

In musicology, maqom refers to a type of melody or mode – a song performed on a scale, often with lyrics derived from Sufi poetry. Although there is no concrete information on exactly how and when the art of maqom emerged, it is generally thought to have come from the area of present-day Iraq, and is today one of the high arts of Central Asia.

MUSIC OF KINGS Maqom consists of a complex set of melodic structures set to unintegrated rhythmic sequences. A typical maqom ensemble consists of stringed instruments, such as the longnecked lute and bowed sato, accompanied by a doyra, or frame drum not unlike a tambourine. Though its sound is complex and deeply philosophical, the popularity of maqom continues to grow, aided by events like the Maqom Art Conference.

There are several forms of maqom art in Uzbekistan including Bukhara shashmaqomi, Khorezm maqom and dutar maqom, Tashkent-Fergana maqom, Surnay maqom and musical-instruments maqom. Performing maqom’s complex melodies requires years of practice that goes far beyond just learning the musical notes. A performer must truly know

religious and secular sciences and deeply understand the essence of poetry and how it is conveyed through melody. And then, they must develop the skill to effectively convey these intricacies to the listener.

Well-performed, maqom’s melodies have been said to awaken the most delicate feelings and bestow a calm in the depths of the human heart, conjuring a world where souls can merge through music. Many great rulers deeply understood the magic of such melodies. Their palaces resounded and royal parties were enlived with maqom music. Indeed, feasts for high-ranking guests simply would not have taken place without maqom masters present and performing.

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UNCOVERING MAQOM’S HISTORY The emergence of Islam laid the foundation for the devleopment of unique and elegant new art forms. Architecture, writing, painting, music, and religious and secular sciences were all but perfected through the centuries. In this way, maqom developed as a unique musical form with strong notes of its Central Asian roots. In the early days, maqom was learned orally within families and and passed down from teacher to student. The songs offer a window into divine notions of living and feeling, and speak to the organic connections between the cultures who helped shape it. In a musical way, maqom unites the Arab, Persian and Turkish worlds.

As Islam spread throughout Asia, the core shared culture of the Persian and Turkic peoples mixed with the cultures brought by the Arabs, giving rise to a new wave of development. During the Abbasid dynasty (750-1253), Baghdad became the centre of Arab culture. Scholars, philosophers and leaders from different countries gathered in Baghdad to exchange ideas. Among these philosophers were Ibn Sina (980-1037), al-Farabi (872-950), alKindi (801-873) and al-Mawsili (742-804), who wrote their views on the art of music. It was during this period especially that regional musical instruments, such as the ud, chang (kanun), santur, setor (dutor), nay and soz began to take full shape. These instruments would eventually spread to Europe through Central Asia, Turkey, India and North Africa, sometimes evolving in shape and sound as they went. The sonic variety produced on these instruments was extraordinary.

MODERN-DAY MAQOM The International Maqom Art Forum was first staged in September 2018, an initiative of Uzbekistan’s president, Shavkat Mirziyoyev. The event was aimed at promoting and developing the art of maqom, both at home and internationally, with a special focus on increasing interest among young people and creating a worthy legacy for future generations.

Held biannually in the city of Shahrisabz in southern Uzbekistan, the event brings together world-famous musicians and masters of maqom, who perform on a large stage in Oqsaroy Square, built by Amir Temur. The conference draws musicians from more than 60 countries, who bring the diverse styles and forms of maqom that exist today. The lineup features concerts by star performers, an international music competition, an academic conference, exhibitions, workshops and more. The International Conference of Maqom Art is held every two years in September.

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INTERVIEW

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

FOUR INTERNATIONAL RESIDENTS ON THEIR LIVES IN UZBEKISTAN Text by Kamola Makhmutkhodjaeva, Islyam Kabirov There’s no doubt that Uzbekistan’s tourism industry has been experiencing a boom. The future is looking bright, not just for the citizens of Uzbekistan, but for the many international residents who live here. We spoke to a few foreign residents to find out what attracted them to Uzbekistan and why they love it here.

ALBERTO DÍAZ BURGOS Age: 22 Originally from: Ciudad Real, Spain Profession: Spanish Teacher

When I decided to come to Uzbekistan, I knew nothing about this country. I imagined that Uzbekistan might be an old and poor place, but when I arrived, my opinion changed.

I saw that Uzbekistan is developing very quickly, and Tashkent is a modern city. I have already visited Samarkand and Bukhara, and my next route is to Khiva. I believe that Samarkand and Bukhara are very beautiful cities, but Tashkent is very convenient for life, so I like it here more.

I originally came to Tashkent only for one year to teach Spanish at the university, but I really liked it here and decided to stay in this interesting country for a while. I really like the prices in Uzbekistan – everything is cheaper here than in Spain, and the people are very kind and polite – they always try to help. The downside, I think, is that most people do not speak English, and it is difficult for me to communicate with them because we do not understand each other. But, in any case, I consider this to be my problem, so I study Russian and Uzbek languages ​​diligently.

There is one thing that I still haven't been able to get used to, and that is qurt (salty, hard cheese balls). Many people like it, but I cannot eat it. But in general, I am very pleased with Uzbek dishes – they’re tasty and satisfying.

If we talk about differences, Uzbek people are more natural than where I’m from. Here people want to help you without any privileges, everyone respects each other, and they value the elderly very much. In Spain, some young people have forgotten these values. I would like to add that I really want to find a permanent job in Tashkent in order to continue living in Uzbekistan, because I have already fallen in love with this country and its people. I want to continue to discover new cities and people of Uzbekistan.

SAVIOUR UCHE Age: 18 Originally from: Elugwu Umudibi Ekwe, Imo State, Nigeria Profession: Football Player

Before my arrival in Uzbekistan, I thought that since it is a Muslim country I might have problems related to religion, but I found that it is much more tolerant than I expected.

Since I have arrived in Uzbekistan, I have only managed to visit Tashkent. However, I hope to visit Andijan and Samarkand, as well, in order to personally experience the beautiful art of those cities.

At the moment, I have been in Tashkent for eight months, and my main goal here is to play football. I like a lot of things here, but one problem I have encountered is that the majority of people here don't speak English, so it's hard for me to interact with them. One of the things I like about this country is the variety of traditional food.

Even though I don't understand the Uzbek language, I like the sound of it. As for the local people, in comparison to my homeland, I can say that we are both friendly people.

Nevertheless, on the streets of Uzbekistan, you can still find a surprise in the eyes of local citizens at the sight of people of a different race. If I were asked what I would like to change in this country, I would create more job opportunities to make living in Uzbekistan more attractive for foreigners, especially for the younger generation.

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YANG QING Age: 33 Originally from: Xi’an, China Profession: Telecom Engineer

I had no idea about Uzbekistan before my arrival. Today, I have been in Uzbekistan for almost five years, every year since 2014. I generally stay in Uzbekistan six to ten months of the year – this year, I have been here for eight months already. The infrastructure has improved significantly in recent years: many new buildings have been built and the roads have also been updated. Over the past five years, I have only stayed in Tashkent. My life in Uzbekistan is spent either at home or at work. Sometimes I go to the gym and shopping malls. I like to visit beautiful and interesting places in Tashkent.

I work as a telecommunications engineer, providing hardware and software solutions for operators in Uzbekistan and building a fast and stable network with LTE and 5G technologies. I really like the local food, especially the plov. Whenever I return to Uzbekistan, I always gain weight as I can eat two servings of plov at a time. I also like the Uzbek people, and I really want to find my other half here – someone who will teach me the Russian language in the future. As for what I do not like, I can mention the hot weather at 30-40 degrees in summer. Because of this I do not want to go outside until the evening.

MIRIAM FOPIANI ROMÁN Age: 26 Originally from: Cádiz, Spain Profession: Spanish and French Teacher

In September 2019, I came to Samarkand to teach Spanish and French in SamDU (Samarkand State University) as part of an international programme. I ended up working in the Institute of Foreign Languages of Samarkand, as well, where I really enjoyed collaborating. Right now I am living in Tashkent – I work online for an Indian university.

Beyond living in Samarkand, I have visited many places in Uzbekistan. I used to come very often to Tashkent on the weekends because I had many international friends here (I even visited Parkent, where I saw the ‘pre-celebration’ of Navruz before quarantine started). I visited Bukhara twice, once during the snowy period. I went by taxi from Samarkand to Shahrisabz and Termez (quite an adventure), and also from Tashkent to Fergana and Kokand. And finally I took the night train to visit Khiva, one of my favourite trips in Uzbekistan.

My impressions haven’t changed much over the year I’ve lived here. When I first came to Uzbekistan, I had the impression that locals were very friendly and sociable, and also very cheerful, and I still think the same thing about the people here. However, something that let me down at the beginning was the fact that not many people speak English, and that every meal has meat. I miss vegetarian options sometimes, so, for me it’s very hard to eat Uzbek food everyday.

There are plenty of differences between Uzbekistan and my home country, but the main one for me is the Uzbek dedication to work. In Spain, we care a lot about the ‘quality of life’ – we don’t like to sacrifice our free time; we don’t imagine our lives without having time for ourselves, too. As an example, we don’t usually work from 8am to 8pm – we might work fewer hours, but in those hours we try to be very efficient and productive, so that later we can have some free time.

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ADVERTORIAL

E A T I N G

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

A L

F R E S C O :

TASHKENT’S BEST TERRACES Text by Sabina Odinayeva There are more than 320 sunny days in Uzbekistan a year. Here, even the climate and weather prove their hospitality and generosity. It’s an age-old Uzbek tradition to gather in chaykhanas (teahouses) for tea and pleasant conversation.

Chaykhanas were always located in leafy, open spots in the coolest and most comfortable areas of a city or village. Today, restaurants and cafes have become more popular than teahouses. But the tradition of gathering outdoors for food and conversation continues on Tashkent’s breezy, atmospheric open-air terraces. From leafy courtyards to panoramic rooftops, we’ve rounded up a selection of some of the best terraces in the city.

BASILIC MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE One of the oldest spices and very popular in Uzbekistan, the ‘royal herb’ lent its name to this European restaurant. Basilic opened its doors in late autumn 2009 and continues to be one of the city’s premium restaurants.

Basilic has a summer open-air terrace with large umbrellas, surrounded by ornamental potted plants. Open for diners throughout the summer, on a hot day it the perfect place to hide away from the scorching sun with a cool lemonade or fresh cocktail in hand.

The menu features a wide variety of Mediterranean, Italian, French and even Japanese cuisine. Must-try dishes include the risotto with porcini mushrooms, the ribeye steak, and

the blackened catfish in miso sauce. For seafood lovers, there’s fresh lobster, oysters and other fish on offer. Guests with a sweet tooth might want to explore the French and Italian desserts, such as tiramisu and panna cotta. Basilic also has a fairly solid wine and cocktail list.

Average price per person: 600,000 sum (≈$60) Address: 19, A. Temur str., Tashkent Opening hours: noon-midnight Phone: +998 71 233 99 05, +998 98 364 90 10 Instagram: @basilic_rest

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HORI JAPANESE PAN-ASIAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Well-loved Hori specialises Japanese and pan-Asian dishes and enjoys a central Tashkent location. Its large terrace (seating 80) is decorated in bright colours, with dwarf conifers around the sofa-tables, which have soft pillow seats. Large umbrellas and an established microclimate keep out the blazing sun on hot days.

The menu is a delightful combo of more traditional offerings and original ideas that open up inventive and delicious flavour combinations. Dishes that everyone should try are

the Kamchatka (Red King) crab tartare, Akami tuna tartare, gyoza with marbled meat, teppanyaki beef, maki rolls, sushi and sashimi. There’s also a menu of signature drinks.

Average price per person: 600,000 sum (≈$60) Opening hours: 11am-midnight Address: 45, Makhumtumkuli str., Tashkent Phone: +998 71 233 60 66; +998 90 924 34 37 Instagram: @hori.rest

COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT TASHKENT Courtyard by Marriott Tashkent offers gourmet cuisine at its main meat-centric restaurant, MEATme Grill and Bar, and Uzbek cuisine on the Ugolёk Terrace.

Ugolёk is an all-season terrace that seats 44, built under the canopy of large windows that open up a view of the street.

Ornamental pot plants give a leafy feel. The terrace menu features traditional Uzbek recipes that have been passed down through generations, but rendered in a contemporary style and setting. In the warmer months, there’s a special summer menu featuring cold soups and snacks and dishes made with fresh, seasonal vegetables.

If you prefer to head indoors, MEATme Grill and Bar is an all-day restaurant decorated in national Uzbek style. There is a European breakfast buffet in the morning, and a grill and exclusive wine collection in the afternoon. Steak cuts are sourced from the US, Kazakhstan and local suppliers. Top dishes include kazan kebab, kovurma (fried) lagman, the ribeye steak and the lamb chops.

MEATme Grill and Bar keeps one special tradition: regulars are given personalised, namesake knives to use every time they come in for a steak. First-time visitors are also offered a choice from an assortment of specialised steak knives for use during their meal.

Average price per person: 250,000 sum (≈$25) Address: 126, Kichik beshyogoch str., Tashkent Opening hours: 7-11 pm Phone: +998 71 203 33 23 Instagram: @meatmetashkent Website: www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/tascy-courtyard-tashkent

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GASTRONOMY

HYATT REGENCY TASHKENT HOTEL This Italian restaurant located on the rooftop of the Hyatt Regency Tashkent Hotel has one of the best panoramic views of the city. The wide terrace, located on the 7th floor, is a comfortable place for dinner or drinks and can accommodate up to 52 people.

The menu at Sette Restaurant consists of colourful Italian dishes and is updated seasonally. Chef Giovan Giacomo Pontecorvo previously worked for the Alain Ducasse group, and brings his skill in crafting authentic Italian recipes. Don’t miss the burrata on whole grain fresella soaked in tomato water, the risotto with zucchini pesto, and the classic Capri-style ravioli with assorted cheese and tomato sauce.

There’s an extensive wine list that incorporates New and Old World offerings, including a number of Italian wines that accompany the dishes well. There’s also often a programme of live music to round off a perfect Tashkent evening.

Average price per person: 500,000 sum (≈$50) Address: 1A, Navoi str., Tashkent Opening hours: 6-11pm Phone: +998 99 885 15 45, +998 71 207 13 71 Instagram: @sette.restaurant Website: www.hyattrestaurants.com

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

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PASADO RESTAURANT & BAR With its boutique terrace seating just 15 people, Pasado is the perfect place for a cosy, open-air meal. The international menu crafted by chef Dmitry Kolesov includes Italian, European and Mediterranean cuisines with hints of Asian influences. Colourful signature dishes range from salmon kheh (a Korean-style cold starter made from salmon, spices and vegetables) and tiger prawns in parmesan sauce to baked lamb and filet mignon with foie gras. There is also a large range of salads.

There are several rooms indoors. One of them is called the lounge hall, where you can relax on soft and cozy sofas. The second floor made in an elegant style is designed for large celebrations up to 70 guests. And for business meetings and romantic dinners the restaurant offers a "Glass" hall in Italian design.

The chef of the PASADO restaurant Dmitriy Kolesov is

a maestro and connoisseur of European cuisine. During his many years of career, he managed to visit and work in different parts of the world!

A unique element of the Pasado menu is its large assortment of hot and cold snacks and sharing plates. These are perfect for nibbling on the terrace, whether with business partners, on a first date or hosting an intimate celebration.

Average price per person: 500,000 sum (≈$50) Address: 72, Yusuf Hos Hojib str., Tashkent Opening hours: 11am-11pm Phone: +998 71 215 50 44 Instagram: @pasado_uz Website: www.pasado.uz

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STREET FOOD

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

CHORSU GLUTTONY ROW

By Anna Martusevich / Photos by Anastasiya Ivanova

I’ve heard it said that, to really get to know a place, you have to go straight to the street food.

After five years living in Tashkent, I can confirm that this is the first and foremost thing that a visitor to Uzbekistan – no matter which city – should do. I’m someone who likes to have a good, hearty meal, and over the years here, I’ve scoured countless restaurants and cafes looking for the best eats. But I truly found my zen wandering through Uzbekistan’s deliciously smoky streets, bazaars and flea markets, inhaling the cosmic smells of the best food in the world. Well, apart from my mother's cutlets, of course!

I’ve decided to put all that ‘research’ to good use and leave my mini-legacy: a list of 30 must-try Tashkent street food spots. In this new, regular Visit Uzbekistan column, I’m taking you along as I sample the city’s most delectable snacks, and offer my tips on where to go and what to order.

In this first edition, we’re heading to one of the top spots on my personal hit list: Chorsu Bazaar. The biggest, noisiest, and longest-running bazaar in Tashkent, Chorsu is the one universal place where you can experience all the joys of Central Asia, and be endlessly amazed at the stories of the people who work there. Locals call it ‘Gluttony Row’ because of the endless rows of food stalls selling all manner of delightful Uzbek foods.

It's one of my favourite places in town, and the first place I take guests when they visit Tashkent.

Fresh bread

Nohat shurak

Plov

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Meet husband and wife, Murad and Shoira, who have been working at the bazaar for 20 years. Murad is a journalist who used to work for a national radio company and Shoira is a philologist. As students, they worked in the cotton harvest for five years, where Murad discovered his culinary skills, cooking pilau for all his coworkers.

While the food assortment looks similar at all of the stalls, each vendor has their own unique take or speciality. Murad’s is nokhat shurak – a very delicate, slow-cooked dish of marinated lamb and chickpea. Shurpa (lamb and vegetable soup), lagman (noodles), fried catfish, hasip (homemade offal-and-rice sausage), kebabs and chicken tabaka (Caucasian-style pan-fried chicken) are available from almost all the local sellers. There are several outlets offering plov and khanum, a steamed dough roll stuffed with potato, onion, seasonings and a lot of tomato. While home cooked khanum often also has meat, at Chorsu, they serve a special vegetarian version. For the best khanum, head to my friend Mashhura’s stall, where they have been making the same recipe in the same place for 52 years.

To find the food stalls, head to the east side of the bazaar, near the fruit. Mashhura and Murad’s stalls are next to each other – say their names to any seller in the bazaar and you’ll quickly be directed to them. In my opinion, the best hasip, nohat shurak and khanum in Tashkent can all be found here.

Khanum Not much has changed at Chorsu over the last half-century, except that in the 1990s, they cooked only on charcoal. Water and electricity were only installed in the 2000s. Today, meats are still grilled over charcoal, but electric cooking methods have also been added.

Come in the morning and you’ll see a cross-section of Tashkent life – wholesalers, tourists, students and people just arrived to Tashkent by train, bus, or plane – flocking to Chorsu for one reason: breakfast. This is the best time to visit the bazaar. By midday, almost all the best food has already sold out.

Chorsu’s food-stall rows are open from 6am to 5pm. You can order takeaway or sit and eat at plastic tables and chairs with the scent of cooking food in your nose.

Naryn

The price list below is approximate – as it’s a bazaar, haggling for the price is customary.

Chorsu Gluttony Row prices: hasip naryn shashlik catfish shurpa plov nohat shurak laghman tea kettle

15000 - 20000 sum (≈$1,5-2) 15000 - 20000 sum (≈$1,5-2) 8000 - 10000 sum (≈$0,8-1) 8000 - 9000 sum (≈$0,8-0,9) 15000 sum (≈$1,5) 15000 sum (≈$1,5) 20000 sum (≈$2) 17000 sum (≈$1,7) 2000 sum (≈$0,2)

I'm already looking forward to my next trip to the tantalising smells and tastes of Gluttony Row. Who's with me?

Anna Martusevich is the Director of Sales and Marketing at the Hyatt Regency Tashkent Hotel and an expat with 5 years experience in Uzbekistn

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SPORT

VISIT UZBEKISTAN

Text by Valeriya Galikhanova

Sports tourism is a memorable way to see and discover a destination from a unique perspective. Sporting events and outdoor pursuits create opportunities for travellers to get acquainted with the local culture while also participating in a unique activity. Uzbekistan has many special opportunities to develop sports tourism, too: trail races, hiking challenges, marathons, jeep trials, paragliding and wild swimming are just a few of the exciting activities that travellers can participate in here.

According to the UN World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), 2020 was the worst year on record for global tourism, with international arrivals falling by 74% due to COVID-19. But despite this downturn, the pandemic has provided an opportunity to consider new pathways for Uzbekistan to restart its tourism economy in more sustainable and resilient ways.

Recent years have seen growing interest around the world in health and fitness trends, and the time is right for Uzbekistan to invest in developing sports tourism, with the need for social distancing and bodily health at the top of travellers’ priorities.

Before the pandemic, Uzbekistan was enjoying year-onyear increases in foreign visitors. In 2019, the country welcomed 6.7 million travellers – up from 5.3 million arrivals the year before. While only 1.5 million foreign tourists visited Uzbekistan last year, domestic tourism grew to 14 million people during this period.

On October 30, 2020, the President signed Decree No. PF-6099, “On measures for the widespread introduction of a healthy lifestyle and the further development of mass sports”.

This decree includes a number of measures that support the development of the sporting industry.

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As the pandemic is gradually on the decline and the world begins to come out of hibernation, plans are afoot in many places to revive events and festivals that were cancelled or moved online last year due to lockdowns. A number of Uzbek sporting events have already been held or restarted post-pandemic.

Restart Timeline Nov 2020 – Mar 2021: Save Aral runs held in major Uzbek cities Jan 2021: First-ever winter equestrian polo match held on snow in Amirsoy Feb 2021: Chimgan Ski Battle held in the Bostanlyk district of Tashkent, promoting winter mountain sports like alpine skiing, snowboarding and mountain tourism Mar 28: Tashkent International Marathon

The country also continues its preparations to host the Asian Sambo Championship, the World Judo Championship and the Asian Football Confederation U23-2022 Asian Cup, all of which are scheduled for 2022.

Uzbekistan is very diverse and accessible all year round, and there are a huge array of potential sports and activities that could contribute to its tourism economy. Laid-back activities for almost any visitor, such as cycling tours of cities, historical sites and mountain areas, will be popular and easy to set up. Light adventure treks, like hiking and horse riding, are perfect for exploring Uzbekistan’s many picturesque valleys and mountains.

There is also water tourism – especially wild swimming in lakes and reservoirs – and races, such as trail runs, duathlons and triathlon competitions. Winter sports, including skiing and snowboarding, are on the rise in the mountain resorts of Amirsoy, Chimgan, Beldersay. And a variety of other adventure

and alternative sports like skateboarding, mountaineering, rock climbing, canyoning and paragliding are all excellent options for development in Uzbekistan.

Hosting large-scale international sporting events can draw new types of tourists and creates sporting infrastructure beneficial to both the host city and the country as a whole. And investing in sporting activities offers the chance to freshen up Uzbekistan’s image internationally while attracting a segment of travellers that might not have considered visiting the country otherwise. Sports tourists take away a lasting impression, too, not just of historical sights but of challenges tackled and new goals achieved, which will encourage visitors to return again and again to try new things.

August

June 11–13

June 5-6

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Zaamin Ultra Sports Festival Held in the mountains of Zaamin National Park, this sporting festival includes an ultramarathon and trail running events, plus music and art for a totally new concept in sporting events in Uzbekistan. The festival will reflect the authenticity and traditions of the country and aims to further develop cultural tourism.

Zaamin National Park, Jizzakh province | www.samarkandhalfmarathon.uz Chimgan ECHO International ecological and tourism festival held since 1977. The festival’s wide programme includes high-speed climbing to the top of the Big Chimgan, rock climbing, orienteering and mountain biking alongside an environmental campaign. And the brightest part of the festival is the International Competition of Tourist Author's Songs.

Chimgan Resort, Tashkent region | www.facebook.com/fegtu BeFit Race This obstacle-course race is open to participants of all disciplines and abilities to test their strength, skills and abilities through the elements. The challenging course includes obstacles, swimming, running and much more – a real test of strength of mind and endurance. The event is open to anyone over the age of 18.

November

Sep 30 - Oct 3

Sep 1-5

Amirsoy Resort, Tashkent region | www.befit.uz New Star Fest This outdoor festival of culture, sports, music and contemporary art will be a meeting place for athletes, photographers, adventurers and all those who share a love of mountains, music and an active and healthy lifestyle.

Bostanlyk district | www.samarkandhalfmarathon.uz Open Championship of the Republic of Uzbekistan in Mountain Biking This two-stage cross-country championship crosses a variety of terrain in two areas of cycling: cross-country and uphill. The competition invites athletes of different age groups to demonstrate their cycling skills and compete for top marks in speed and time.

Location TBA, Tashkent region | www.facebook.com/fegtu Samarkand Half Marathon Samarkand’s international charity race hosted by the Foundation for the Development of Culture and Art under the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Uzbekistan. The race combines sports, music and educational events with a mission to draw attention to the problems of access to cultural objects for people with disabilities.

Samarkand | www.samarkandhalfmarathon.uz

Uzbekistan’s First Integrated Communications Agency

LONDON - TASHKENT

www.dna-uzbekistan.com

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Text by Alexander Fedorov A darling of postcard views, featured in countless articles, blogs, books and albums on Soviet Modernism: the Hotel Uzbekistan is an architectural icon. Alexander Fedorov from the Tashkent Modernism poster-art project takes us on a guided journey through one of the most well-known buildings in Uzbekistan.

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53 Built in 1974 by a team of designers led by Ilya Merport, at the planning stage the hotel was slated to be branded the ‘Intourist Hotel’ (Intourist being the primary Soviet travel agency) and was to be smaller with fewer floors. But at the time, Tashkent was becoming increasingly important as the ‘Eastern Facade and Showcase City’ of the Soviet Union, and there was a flood of international events and tourist flow to the city. So, the plans for the hotel were scaled up, making it into one of the most important construction projects of the time. Designed primarily to receive large groups, such as participants in international competitions and conferences, the number of floors was increased to 17 and the capacity went up from the initially planned 750 to a whopping 900 guests.

Comparisons have been made with the grand Cosmos Hotel, which was built several years later, as well as the famed ‘book houses’ – a series of tower blocks on New Arbat Avenue in Moscow. Hotel Uzbekistan certainly shares similarities with these structures, particularly the openbook shape of the book houses, but it also stands out with its delicate, detailed and yet structural and functional features.

It represents a kind of synthesis of two stylistically different directions of Modernism: Orientalism and Brutalism.

Brutalism is most present in the large details on the hotel’s eastern facade and the monumentality of the building with its almost ‘blank’ ends and a plastic ‘visor’ on the roof of the restaurant block.

Due to Tashkent’s sunny, warm climate, there was an urgent need for additional cooling systems. The designers did this by adding an aluminium screen on the western facade, which had a functional purpose and served as an expression of both Uzbek Modernism and vivid Orientalism.

This sun screen was later nicknamed the ‘paranja’ (Uzbekstyle burqa or ‘pandjara’ in some sources).

Structurally, the hotel building consists of a highrise tower with residential rooms adjacent to a two-storey stylobate (base with columns). The stylobate and the addition of a wide entrance staircase emphasise the building’s monumentality and enhance its height.

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Adjacent to the high-rise tower, the two-story section forms a courtyard with a gallery that offers improved aeration in summer months. A restaurant is situated around the free space of the courtyard, which also contains a teahouse overlooking a reflecting pool designed to keep the space comfortable even when the temperature soars above 45°C. Sufas (in Arabic architecture, a protruding stone ledge or bench) in the form of cantilever slabs hang over the pool. The use of sliding panels (glass in aluminum bindings) in the enclosing structures made it possible to connect all rooms with the courtyard. The courtyard is accessed from the gallery via a spiral staircase made of monolithic, reinforced concrete. A sun screen was installed over the patio to shelter the space from direct sunlight.

Tashkent lies in a heavily seismic zone, so the highrise part of the building was reinforced with a metal frame to protect it from earthquakes. A two-storey basement made of monolithic, reinforced concrete with 100cm-thick, 9m-high walls serves as a box-like foundation. The frames of all of the building’s blocks were designed for nine-point seismic loads. Each block was separated from each other by anti-seismic seams and articulated, reinforced concrete beams with support systems to prevent damage from earthquake shockwaves.

Hotel Uzbekistan, much like the country itself, has welcomed countless guests over the years, from almost every nation in the world. In the 1980s, the International Film Festival of Asia, Africa and Latin America was held in Tashkent every two years, and Hotel Uzbekistan hosted guests from across the globe. During its time, the hotel has seen major historical changes, been home to visiting dignitaries and served as a temporary haven for people attending important festivals and events.

Despite generally good preservation of the building’s facades, the repainting of the western side, which has become polychrome, and a new foreign-style visor over the entrance spoil the overall impression. The reconstruction of the interiors was associated with the destruction of some of the works of monumental art that were located here.

Today, Hotel Uzbekistan remains a landmark of Tashkent and is open to guests. You can make a reservation via most hotel booking sites – rooms have splendid views of the city centre. Even if you’re not staying overnight, you can grab a drink and take in Tashkent from the panoramic windows of the bar on the top floor. Though there are better-value places to stay in Tashkent for overall experience, the location and architectural splendour of the hotel is unmatched.

The state share of the hotel (80.13%) was sold to a Singaporean company in 2020. Within two years, the building will be renovated without changing the facade, though what will happen to the hotel is anybody’s guess.

We can only hope it won’t suffer the sad fate of most of the architectural monuments of international importance of this period in Tashkent, and that this symbol of Uzbek architecture will be preserved for generations to come.

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BOOK

The book 10 Reasons to Visit Uzbekistan is perfect for those who are yet to discover this country, but want a glimpse of an extraordinary and authentic land surrounded by legends. Masterpieces of photography by talented Ernest Kurtveliev reflect the true spirit of Uzbekistan with its ancient and majestic architecture, breathtaking nature, and openhearted people. This book will inspire you to see these unique places with your own eyes, and once you do, we are sure that you will have many more reasons to visit Uzbekistan again.

Preview and order: WWW.UZBEKISTANBOOK.DINARA.CO

For wholesale orders call: +998 93 390-00-98

Bookstore Tashkent: +998 71 252-74-99

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NATIONALLY STYLED ACCESSORIES Uzbekistan is a country with a reverent attitude towards tradition and culture. The use of national clothing in daily life and the preservation of Uzbek flair in modern styles and fashions emphasise this. Accessories play an important role in supplementing a look. In the modern world, accessories are no longer just frivolous details. In modern fashion, they are some of the most important aspects of clothing and style, creating an individual and unique image for the wearer. Jewellery is meant to enhance an outfit and complete a look. The integrity of a look may depend not only on stylish shoes but also on, for example, well chosen beads or the right bracelet. Brooches, chains, belts, and the like all work to style up a look.

In addition to a decorative function, accessories have another important role: they set the right accents in the look.

If the wearer wants to play down some aspects of their body or appearance, stylists advise focusing on enhancing the areas you love, highlighting them with bright accents. By changing the colour, type or size of an accessory, it is easy to craft a look that is flattering.

Nuance is critical to this. Fashionable additions to your outfit will always give relevance to your look, but only if you choose them with taste. The details of your outfit can change your look from businesslike and austere to sentimental and

romantic or bold and risky. Accessories bring that zest of style and glamour to a look.

Almost every culture has its own unique accessories that create different looks depending on fashion trends and mood.

But Uzbek jewellery never goes out of fashion, having outgrown the boundaries of our country to become a truly global treasure.

At the AUTÓGRAPH Art Gallery, we offer accessories of every style and shape. Of particular specialty are our beautiful scarves made of natural silk and khan satin. Uzbek khan satin is almost entirely made by hand. Silk crafters have developed their own unique techniques and technologies for extracting threads from cocoons, and today Uzbek silk scarves are considered unique and one-of-a-kind.

No matter how changeable the world of fashion is, one of the most important accessories is always the bag. AUTÓGRAPH Art Gallery offers a stunning selection of bags, purses, clutches, and cosmetic totes of various styles and shapes, made from national fabrics, such as embroidery and traditional Uzbek ‘kurok’ patchwork. At AUTÓGRAPH, you’ll also find a wonderful selection of national Uzbek jewellery catering to any taste, which you can surely put together into lovely sets! The return to traditional Uzbek fashion is not just a delight, but an inspiration to a new generation of craftspeople for fresh creations.

INFO

Address: 1 Ataturk street Address: 1, Ataturk st, Tashkent Landmark: Academic Russian Theatre Landmark: Academic Russian Drama Drama Theatre Tel.: +998 (71) 203 00 33 +998 71 203-00-33 +998 (71) 203 00 34

+998 71

203-00-34

www.autograph.uz

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HORI JAPANESE PAN-ASIAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 45, Makhumtumkuli str., Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 233 60 66 BASILIC MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT & LOUNGE 19, A. Temur str., Tashkent tel: (+998) 71 233 99 05