SurfVisuals Issue 3 by SurfVisuals

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Surf travel specialists Book your 2019 surf trip today 4

WAVEOF THEDAY.COM.AU

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Conscious

minds

eco-friendly

creating

surf

wear

W W W. PA N A M U N A P R O J E C T. C O M . A U

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People will stare, make it worth their while.

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People will stare, make it worth their while... TEAM EDITORS Ben Nathan Michael Dillon HEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ginny Hodgkinson E: designer@surfvisuals.com I: @ gingin_art ON THE COVER Cait Miers Elise Trigger (surfer) CONTRIBUTORS RIPCURL COREY WILSON URBNSURF RUPERT PARTRIDGE ED SLOANE ANDREW ROSS FABIEN VOILEAU THOMAS LING WALK WILD STUDIO CAIT MIERS MITCH POPE MICHAEL TARTAGLIA BILLY CERVI JACK O'GRADY CHARLOTTE PIEPER JAKE KILLEN ANAÏS PIERQUET MICK ANDREWS BRYDIE WATSON DAMIAN DAVILA ALEX MATTIE VITOR VIANA JONO SMIT BEN WHITMORE HUNTER VERCOE ALEXA LICCARDI ANDRE ADUR LUKE GOUVIGNON

INDO 12 Photography by AUSTIN MULLEN

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT RIPCURL URBNSURF WAVE OF THE DAY EAT YOUR WATER PANAMUNA PROJECT TEEPEE SURF THANKS TO YOU, THE CREW: Thank you to the crew of followers over at Surf Visuals whose loyalty and support is so vital to SV’s life. You make our world a better place and allow us to create independent media that we love, to that we thank you. It was in our wildest dreams to create tasty content for you and we have it, with that extra mexican spice. If you haven’t subscribed online, head there for a chance to win epic subscriber giveaways.

SV ABOUT US Surf Visuals is independently published by Ben Nathan and M ichael Dillon in Melbourne, Australia. The views and opinions expressed by contributors and people featured inside SV are not necessarily shared by the publishers. SV prints two issues a year in strictly limited numbers. All content is copyright Surf Visuals Pty Ltd unless otherwise indicated. SUBMISSIONS yours@surfvisuals.com ADVERTISING INQUIRIES sales@surfvisuals.com SURF VISUALS DIGITAL Instagram: @SURFVISUALS www.surfvisuals.com www.facebook.com/surfvisuals

AUSTIN MULLEN JOSH IHLENDFELDT BRETT JOHNSON

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People will stare, make it worth their while....

Pg.20 Thanks, Ripcurl. Pg.34 Thanks, URBNSURF. Pg.57 Yours, Fabien Voileau.

CONTENTS

Pg.67 Yours, Thomas Ling. Pg.77 Yours, Walk Wild Studio. Pg.91 Yours, Cait Miers. Pg.103 On the road, Mitch Pope. Pg.111 On the road, Michael Tartaglia / Billy Cervi/ Jack O'grady. Pg.121 On the road, Charlotte Pieper. Pg.131 On the road, Jake Killen. Pg.139 Women of the Sea, Anais Pierquet/ Mick Andrews. Pg.151 Women of the Sea, Brydie Watson. Pg.159

winners.

Pg.167 The photo comp, top 10. Pg.180 Thankyou , our thanks.

ASH KEILLAH

Photography by FABIEN VOILEAU

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LOUNGING

Photography by VITOR VIANA

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Time To Give Thanks.

Ripcurl.

URBNSURF

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The Ripcurl Pro BELLS BEACH 2018 Photography by COREY WILSON

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The timing was perfect and just like that... Rip Curl was born... The year was 1969, a hot Autumn day in the depths of March; two surfing friends Doug "Claw" Warbrick and Brian "Sing Ding" Singer bumped into each other in Gilbert Street, Torquay. Claw had just finished a summer shaping stint with Fred Pyke and Brian was a science teacher. As the conversation progressed, and no doubt thinking about how they could stay surfing Bells in the pumping months ahead, Claw posed the question that started something great.. "Do you want to start making surfboards together?" he asked. Brian immediately figured this would mean a lot more time surfing, so on the spot said, “Yes!” and resigned from teaching a couple of days later. 50 young years on, here we are. The 2019 Rip Curl Bells Beach Pro. The anniversary of all anniversaries. Bells is the perfect arena for competition. Not only does it capitalise on the best swell that the Southern Ocean has to offer but the headlands that surround the beach form a perfect natural amphitheatre. If that wasn’t enough, prior to each heat and final, the surfers make their way down the long wooden staircase to the beach that snakes through the scrub and the crowd before they arrive on the sand, ready to do battle. It’s the ideal setup for thousands to come and watch the best in the world go head-to-head, which they do, every year. The event at Bells Beach is the longest consecutive running surf event on the competitive circuit and in Australia. We are lucky enough to immerse ourselves in this beautiful natural surroundings day in and day out. So how did the Rip Curl Pro eventuate?

The first Rip Curl Pro in 1973 was very small beer indeed, with surfers competing for cash prizes which amounted to little more than their petrol and living expenses, and considerably less than their airfares! But the contest, won by the legendary Michael Peterson, set the wheels of the professional train in motion. By 1974 companies like Rip Curl and Coca-Cola sponsored the first Australian professional tour. The contests attracted most of the finest surfers from around the world and created a new high profile for surfing from the beach to the boardroom. While the story of the Bells Beach Easter Classic is a major chapter in the history of Australian surfing, the first Rip Curl Pro is the real beginning of the story of surfing’s conversion to professionalism.

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MICK FANNING TAKES SECOND PLACE Photography by COREY WILSON

STEPHANIE GILMORE THE QUEEN Photography by COREY WILSON

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Media baron Kerry Packer would introduce full-blown professionalism to cricket in 1977, but Rip Curl’s bold announcement four years earlier was history-making. And there were many within surfing who deplored the introduction of the cash culture, particularly at Bells, which in its own way was as hallowed a playing field as Wimbledon. Since its inception in the early 1960s, the Bells meet had been frequently blessed with big, powerful waves which sorely tested the skill and courage of Australia’s leading surfers and big wave specialists. In its very early days big wave legends like Bob Pike, Peter Troy and Nipper Williams would dust down their guns and perform in the only Australian contest that regularly offered waves which matched Hawaii’s for size and power. Of course, not every year was vintage, but in 1965 the swell peaked at almost 20 feet and in 1969 most of the contest was held in superb surf nudging 10 feet. With conditions like this it was natural that Bells should become the number one performance forum in the country. So in 1973 the Rip Curl Pro became Australia’s first professional surfing event, with the country’s best competing for beer money which was spent immediately in the local pub.

By the mid-1970s the Rip Curl Pro had become one of the high points of the international pro circuit – a party event with good waves more often than not. Surfer and film-maker Jack McCoy had a restaurant called “The Summer House” and between there, the pub and houses of the leading local lights, the partying never stopped. But the Rip Curl Pro was more than a good time in the mud – along with the clean autumn swells, the Easter weekend seemed to attract more than its fair share of foul weather. It was a serious surfing forum. Surfers like Jeff Hakman, Terry Fitzgerald, Paul Neilsen, Wayne Lynch, Maurice Cole, Shaun Tomson and Reno Abellira were often superb in clean, overhead conditions, while old stagers like Nat Young, Peter Drouyn and Rod Brooks often saved their best for the Rip Curl Pro.

But Simon had not yet peaked. In 1981 – in the biggest and best Rip Curl Pro since 1965 – the big guy took his performance in surfing’s best amphitheatre to new heights, in what was possibly the best and gutsiest display of contest surfing ever seen outside Hawaii. If the Rip Curl Pro has not turned it on in such stature in the years since 1981, there have been many memorable displays, both at Rincon and the Bowl.

FAREWELL MICK FANNING Photography by COREY WILSON

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During the late ’70s and into the early ’80s, the Rincon finals in the smaller years turned into beer-swilling parties on the rocks for supporters of both finalists – noisy, good-spirited affairs which underlined the different atmosphere that the Rip Curl Pro has managed to hold onto through the years. And if the crowd on the rocks has grown bigger and noisier over the years, so too has the audience on the hill. More than 20,000 people watched the memorable 1987 final when 17-year-old Nicky Wood showed judgement and skill beyond his years to defend fellow rookie Richard Marsh in a balls-and-all final. That year also saw the emergence of Damien Hardman, who came out of the trials with both guns blazing. The following year Damien blitzed the Bowl with his backhand attack to take out his first Rip Curl Pro. In 1993 surfing history was made again when the Rip Curl Pro went on The Search and was car-lifted down the coast to Johanna, some two hours away, where Damien won again. Fortunately, the law of averages dictates that this will not have to happen too often in our lifetime. But the fact that the contest was moved at all indicates why the Rip Curl Pro is so special, upholding the true spirit of surfing above all else.” Bells Beach is a very special place for surfing for many Victorians of all ages. All you need to do is ask people who have visited the beautiful natural Amphitheatre about stories from this place. I’m sure you will get some rippers. We are stoked to be partnering with Rip Curl to celebrate the 50 Year Anniversary of them opening their doors and what a special occasion to be doing so, for the Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach stop on the WSL Tour.

ITALO FERREIRA WINS Photography by COREY WILSON

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THE FANNING SIGNATURE SLAY Photography by COREY WILSON

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Tullamarine's new local URBNSURF MELBOURNE

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The First. Words by RUPERT PARTRIDGE Photography by ANDREW ROSS ED SLOANE

I still vividly remember being pushed into wind-blown, summer slop at Currumbin Alley by my dad when I was six. Despite the howling onshore, the experience burned a Cheshire Cat smile into my face that lingered for days. Everyone on the URBNSURF team has similar stories. Andrew, our Founder, often recalls dragging a family friend’s ageing, red single-fin pintail down to Lorne Point when he was ten, and staunchly riding the ol’ beast onto the rocks without a care in the world. For Andrew, the only competition with that day at Lorne Point was his first surf at Wavegarden’s HQ in San Sebastian, Spain in 2012. He’d taken a sabbatical from the corporate grind to spend time with his young family, to surf, to travel, but was quickly distracted by a patent battle between two of surfing’s icons – Greg Webber and Kelly Slater – over wave pool tech. His intrigue led him to a picturesque patch of farmland on the outskirts of Aizarnazabal, a small town deep in the Basque heartland. Led by the Odriozola family, Wavegarden’s team of passionate surfers and highly-skilled engineers had created a private, unique, inland surfing oasis, miles from the coast. Surrounded by rolling green pastures and shadowed by the Pyrenees mountains, waves were pumping.

Andrew Ross URBNSURF'S Founder Photography by ANDREW ROSS

Rupert Partridge URBNSURF'S Brand + Marketing Manager Photography by ED SLOANE

Kita Alexander & Owen Wright Enjoying Wavegarden's Cove prototype in Spain. Photography by ED SLOANE

He arrived at the remote R&D centre with a sense of scepticism, but that quickly dissolved. “Holy shit!”, Andrew exclaimed, as he saw two-time world champ Gabriel Medina blast blowtails and pop shove-its into the black-plastic flats of Wavegarden’s prototype Lagoon. After witnessing several more bewildering rides, Fernando Odriozola, Wavegarden’s biz director and brother of inventor Josema, ordered the Brazilian champ, other visiting pros and their hangers-on out of the Lagoon – it was Andrew’s turn. “Andrew, you are very important to us, and for Wavegarden in Australia,” said Fernando. “Please, go surfing! The other guys can wait.” Not needing to be told twice, Andrew grabbed an MR thruster, bolted to the take-off spot, and waited excitedly for the wave foil to grind. In that first session he caught 10 waves, blasted 60 turns, and had his mind blown by the most mechanically-perfect waves he’d ever surfed. Immediately recognising the potential for Australia (which has the highest per-capita surfing population in the world), he cut a deal with Fernando and Josema, pretty much there and then, to acquire the Australian rights to Wavegarden’s tech. URBNSURF was born. After returning from Europe, Andrew spent the better part of a year in a dark cell (literally – our first offices were a series of cells in the heritage-listed Fremantle Prison) pondering how best to create an artificial surfing environment, and a business around it, that was authentic, Australian, natural, sustainable, memorable, and most importantly, respectful of surfing’s rich history and culture. How should sessions, lessons and memberships work? What will encourage more women to surf? How do we nurture future world champions? How do we minimise our impact on the earth? How do we give back and support those less fortunate? What can we do to support grassroots surfing. The list swelled. And then the real work began. Unsurprisingly, creating Australia’s first surf parks is an exciting, but difficult challenge. While they’re all the rage in 2019, in 2012 there were only flowriders (like the Wave House in San Diego, California) and “pump and dump”-style wavepools (like Siam Park in Tenerife, Canary Islands) to satiate the hunger of wave-starved surfers. Even now, in the midst of the wave pool arms race, there are only three “true” surfing wavepools in operation – The WSL Surf Ranch in Lemoore, California, Surf Snowdonia in Dolgarrog, Wales, and the BSR Surf Resort in Waco, Texas. No surf parks exist in core surf markets. No surf parks exist in the Southern Hemisphere. And despite the hype, very few surfers have ever visited a surf park or ridden artificial waves, and many still need convincing (thankfully Kelly’s leg-burning barrel sections, and BSR’s board-snapping air wave, have helped curb scepticism). From a business perspective, thousands of loyal customers must be found, educated and satisfied, and numerous, profitable business units need to be developed around the surfing experience (from retail, to hire, food and beverage, events and competitions), in order to bring the dream to life. These business models are still very, very new, and are still being built, tested and refined. Appealing to non-surfers is an even larger challenge, many of whom have little more than a cursory knowledge of the sport.

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"How should sessions, lessons and memberships work? What will encourage more women to surf? How do we nurture future world champions? How do we minimise our impact on the earth? How do we give back and support those less fortunate? What can we do to support

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The Cove creates authentic, powerful, barrelling waves, and a hell of a lot of them – once you take into account multiple breaks, we can pump out over 3,000 an hour. We can also create different types of waves (barrels, open faces, steep pockets, air sections), and scale wave height, shape and power to suit different surfing abilities. It’s your first-time surfing? Here’s a Waikiki-style, rolling whitewash wave to find your feet on. You’re an aspiring world-champ, hungry to ring the Bell at the Rip Curl Pro? Try this mutant barrel to air section. The possibilities are endless. Back in 2017, we’d already locked down our Melbourne Airport site, completed all the preliminary work needed to start building our Wavegarden Lagoon, and were essentially good to go. But then late one evening, Andrew received a call from Wavegarden. “Andrew, you need to come over here ASAP. We’ve got something to show you”. They’d created a Cove prototype. Like American Wave Machines’ Perfect Swell technology (that’s used at BSR), the Wavegarden Cove creates concave-shaped waves. Like the hulls of most high-performance thrusters, concaveshaped waves have a trough (or a bottom), create a power pocket, and curve back towards you as you surf them. Imagine how a swell line curves around a groyne at a beach, or a headland at a point break – the wave breaks out the back and runs perpendicular along the bank (typically parallel to the shoreline), while the swell line maintains the wave’s power as it “wraps” back in on itself. Conversely, wave foil technologies (used by the likes of the WSL Surf Ranch and Surf Snowdonia, and what we were originally planning to install for URBNSURF Melbourne) create convex-shaped waves. They don’t tend to have a trough, there’s a limited power pocket (instead, the power is concentrated in the top one-third of the wave), and the wave bends back away from you, rather than towards you, so it feels like it’s constantly trying to race away and push you away from the source. The wave foil surfing experience is more akin to wakesurfing behind a boat, than scoring 3-4ft Bird Rock, or off-the-wall D’Bah, which is the style of wave you’ll get at URBNSURF Melbourne. Essentially, concave-shaped waves are the real deal – beware all imitations.

Nikki Van Dijk, the Queen of Phillip Island. Thrashing Wavegarden's Cove prototype in 2018. Photography by ED SLOANE

After he’d received the call about the Cove, Andrew flew to Spain, surfed his brains out and had another “holy shit!” moment. He knew we had to have it. We turfed our plans to build a Wavegarden Lagoon. We then spent the better part of 2017 and 2018 re-designing URBNSURF Melbourne, from the ground up. Considering we only started construction in May 2018, and that it’s the first time a Wavegarden Cove has ever been built at full-scale, we’re stoked with the progress we’ve made in Melbourne. At the time of writing, our wave generator’s been installed (pier, motors, pistons, housing and all) and we’re mere weeks away from filling our two-hectare, 23 million litre slice of paradise. Once the pool’s been filled, we’ll commence our testing and commissioning period, where things will get really interesting. In the first 7 days, we’ll run our generator 24 hours a day, flat-stick, at full height. That’s over 168,000 perfect barrels, grinding out on Airport Drive, Tullamarine opposite the Essendon Hangar. We’re all incredibly excited to show the world what we’ve created, and of course get in there and surf our brains out.

Wavegarden's original Lagoon prototype.

WAVEGARDEN

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Welcome to URBNSURF Melbourne! Photography by ED SLOANE

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Andrew Ross' MR, supporting Gabriel Medina's Pukas weapon. Photography by ANDREW ROSS

We’ve all started ordering heritage boards from iconic Australian shapers for our first surf – Andrew’s already got a 1980’s MR twin-fin on ice, I’ve ordered an Al Byrne channel - bottomed twinny, our facilities manager Chris is opting for a Jim Banks, and our CEO of Parks Damon will be riding a Corey Graham handshape. Over winter, we’ll be programming new waves with the help of elite athletes, testing a range of boards, surf hardware and wetsuits to find what works best in what conditions, and preparing to launch with a bang in Spring 2019. Our next two projects in Sydney (at Sydney Olympic Park) and Perth (at Tompkins Park, Alfred Cove) are on the horizon, but approaching fast, and we’re planning to build ten URBNSURF parks in Australia over the next decade. It’s an audacious goal, but we’re confident that team work will make the dream work. Like all surfing fables, the URBNSURF story is a deeply personal one. To kick the business off, Andrew invested a large chunk of his hard-earned life savings, and raised the remaining capital needed from his close mates, a tight-knit group of Perth-based surfers who still escape to Rotto, Margaret River and Indonesia whenever they can. I started hassling Andrew via LinkedIn for a job seven years ago, and worked for free until there was an opening. Our development manager Ben, and our facilities manager Chris, both did the same. Our team’s since swelled to 10 full-time staff (and growing), and hundreds of expert consultants and contractors, from hydrodynamicists to electromechanical engineers, are helping us build URBNSURF Melbourne. We’ve also welcomed the backing and nous of well-connected, highly-sophisticated private equity investors who share our vision to create the best surf parks in the world, and to deliver incredible, memorable surfing experiences to our guests.

Surf staples Photography by ED SLOANE

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Everyone involved in the URBNSURF journey is incredibly passionate about what we’re trying to achieve. 80+-hour weeks are the norm. Some of us have relocated interstate, and some of us have even sacrificed personal relationships, to help write a few paragraphs in the next chapter of modern surfing. Most of us are lifelong surfers, and are intimately acquainted with the core and fringes of Australian surf, what’s really important, and what’s just bullshit. We’re acutely aware of the responsibility that sits on our shoulders in creating new surf breaks, and in creating new surfers who’ll ride their first wave at URBNSURF. Ensuring we support grassroots surfing culture, celebrate Australia’s rich surfing history, educate (and mandate) surfing etiquette, preserve our gorgeous, pristine coastlines and natural habitats, and enable current and aspiring athletes reach their full potential, is baked in our DNA. We’re driven to surf more, and to surf better – and want to help others do the same. Which is why we’ve teamed up with Surf Visuals on Behind The Shaper, a series that shines a light on the most important, but often the most overlooked, people in surfing – the shaper. We’re proud to tell their tales of resin dust, fibreglass cuts, master craftsmanship, and the pursuit of the perfect ride. What started as a small concept quickly ballooned into a 95-page zine, a digital content series, a 6-episode podcast mini-series by Lipped, The Surfer’s Podcast, a gallery exhibition in the heart of Melbourne, and the creation of twelve custom boards, built by each of the shapers for them to ride and refine at URBNSURF Melbourne. We hope you love it as much as we do. We’re psyched to welcome surfers from all walks of life, from Victoria, around Australia and from around the world, to come and ride some perfect waves with us at URBNSURF Melbourne later this year. Nothing will ever top your first surf, but we’re hoping your first with us will be just as memorable. Yew! Rupert

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URBNSURF Melbourne from the air. Photography courtesy URBNSURF

Andrew Ross URBNSURF'S Founder, on site at URBNSURF Melbourne. 48 Photography by ED SLOANE

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STILL Photography by MITCH POPE

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Brewskis and barrels. GNARLAROO

THE IDEAL SCENARIO 53 Photography by MICHAEL TARTAGLIA

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Yours. Featuring: FABIEN VOILEAU THOMAS LING WALK WILD STUDIO CAIT MIERS

CREEPIN Photography by CAIT MIERS

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“AQUA MOMENTS” Photography by AIDAN STEVENS

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The Friendly Pirate. Words by ASH KEILLAH We were very lucky to sit down with Ash Keillah – aka The Friendly Pirate – to chat all things surf and life. Ash’s story has been well publicised but there are certain aspects of Ash’s inspiration that we thought we would dive a little deeper into. “My name is Ash Keillah, I’m a ripe 34 years of age and I spend most mornings at a secret spot called Tallows in Byron, but if I’m feeling lucky I surf between the sharks in Ballina. Don’t judge my hipsterness, but a turmeric latte with coconut milk is definitely the best way to kick off the day for me!” Shall we say anymore? As mad surf frothers, we always want to know what inspires people to keep surfing. Is it their love for the ocean? Is it the pure stoke that surfing a wave gives them? Is it the salty water to give them a refreshing start to the morning? Is it enjoying the beauty that mother nature gives you? It is the question that has so many layers and is so hard to put a definitive answer to it. Everyone that has some sort of love for the art of surfing, dreams to wake up every morning to perfect surf, but really, where do we find this so called love and passion for surfing? “It started when I was about 15, I was a dedicated skater but I was sick of eating concrete. I think that helped me pick surfing up so fast, also Dad was an epic surfer so that made it a bit easier to make the transition. To be honest with you, I don’t think I’ve ever not loved surfing but I’ve had a few days surfing certain spots on the Goldy (not naming names!!) with that hectic crowd that have made me question surfing in its entirety.”

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ASH KEILLAH

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Many of you would know the story of Ash and how the nickname “The Friendly Pirate” came about, for those that don’t, Ash was what we call a good Samaritan. Long story short; Ash was caught stepping in to stop a fist fight when someone threw a glass and hit him in the eye – leaving him in pain for months, so he opted to remove the eye so that he could have a chance at surfing again. “Getting an eye injury that blinded me, honestly, all I could think about was if I was going to be able to surf again properly. Surfing was my whole motivation to stay positive, especially once I realised I could do it! Now I surf better with 1 eye then I did with 2 yew! Surfing and the ocean has given me the ability to deal with absolutely anything and the motivation to stay healthy. I hate missing a surf!” If you haven’t come to the realisation yet that Ash is an all-time surf frother, you might need to learn how to read. All surf lovers have a favourite spot that they surf daily or dream about visiting every single day of the year for the rest of their lives. For me, it’s this little reef point break near home, where I full time snack in the valley with nobody around and I absolutely love it. “Tough one, the one spot I’d perch up in for the rest of my life would be La Punta in Mex, a long left that tubes and has ramps, plus I can smash tacos in between surf sessions!”

“I have a ton of inspiration - it can be from just stoked people in the water, a few close friends or a few of the more famous people in the world like Mick Fanning, Joe Rogan, Aubrey Marcus, a whole bunch of Athletes, my list could be never ending; basically anyone I see doing what they love with a smile on their face gets me motivated! On top of motivation, I’d really love to help with an ocean clean up, especially in Bali, it’s so sad right now how polluted it is over there!” Respect. The only word I would use to describe The Friendly Pirate. An all-round legend that has bounced back from one of life’s most tormenting injuries to find the positive vibes and inspiration to keep surfing and loving life. Truly an inspiration. Oh also, Stacey if you’re out there reading this, Ash said you’re a legend and an “absolute dream boat”. Each of these photos in this series was shot by legend Fabien Voileau. Both Ash and Fabs wish that next time they get together; the waves are down-right fucking pumping. X

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Melbourne artist and Typographer Tristan Kerr on a quick weekend trip out of the city.

“AQUA MOMENTS” Photography by AIDAN STEVENS

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Words by THOMAS LING I first started surfing, bodyboarding actually, as a kid - maybe 5 years old. My family and I lived 4 hours inland in rural Victoria. Mum still tells me about the day I unwrapped a shitty foam bodyboard for Christmas, apparently I was shaking uncontrollably from the excitement. It’s crazy to think that up until we moved to the coast in my teen years, I’d still have all the latest mags stashed in my room, being read over and over in-between annual family holidays to the coast where I’d surf mush for two weeks before heading back to the Riverland. Surf stoke is a strange thing. It hooks people, deep from within, and literally takes over everything like an unrestrained obsession, similar to that of being all consumed by a crush or new lover. Photography is just an extension of this obsession. I’ve never professed to be a surf photographer. I couldn’t say why, maybe I’m just selfish and couldn’t stand gruelling monotony of sitting on the beach watching everyone else in the water. Or maybe it is just a lack of confidence or interest in mixing with a cohort of really talented surf photographers who already rub shoulders with the pros and editors. I guess I’m more interested in experiences had before the waves have even been caught. Some of my favorite contemporary surf photographers and artists, take Thomas Campbell, Cole Barash, Nate Lawrence, or John Witzig for example, offer more than just idyllic set ups being torn apart by the best surfers. They plant the seed of intrigue, escapism, and exploration. These guys, who have used surfing as an avenue for creative expression, continue to engage those who view their work with the need to explore.

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Being mindful to the beauty in the repetitive humdrum routines of travel and exploration provides a completely new and enlightening lens to view the seemingly uninteresting. It seems many have lost an appreciation, or maybe even an awareness of fleeting moments of beauty or interest. Iconic photographer Joel Meyorowitz said that “phones killed the sexiness of the street.” Take a look around next time you are waiting for a beer, or sitting on the train. The safety of avoiding eye contact or conversation has replaced unintentional curiosity and connection. They’ve killed the anonymity of chasing waves also. From a surfing perspective, technical innovation has, to some extent, removed the authenticity that surfing once had. Pro’s struggle keeping footage unseen as someone else has probably already filmed the session and posted it online. We are more connected but more alone. As I’ve grown older, it has become more and more evident that it isn’t surfing that has kept me stoked all through my teen years and into my later twenty’s, it is the conscious and tangible connection to everything that incorporates the culture itself. Surf culture, as cliché as it sounds, is like nothing I have ever seen or experienced anywhere around the world. It is a creative melting pot of musicians, artists, surfers, travellers, writers, entrepreneurs, and everything in between. Seeing peoples hands on, no frills approach to whatever they do is really inspiring. Traditional forms of masculinity and femininity are challenged, creativity is encouraged, and Anglocultural norms are ignored. It’s not for everyone, but dedicating time to travel has been one of the best decisions I’ve ever made. It has without a doubt changed the way that I view the world. There is so much beauty and intrigue in seeing and experiencing new places and things. Surfing has taken me all over the world and I’ve met some full blown legends who I’ll continue to keep in contact with til I die. Paddling out is only the climax at the end of the process. It’s the booze fuelled nights, the unavoidable mistakes along the way, and the unpredictability of being out of your comfort zone, that create the stories and the memories that will not be forgotten. It’s almost ironic, some of my fondest memories include getting lost in the weed plantations of Morocco, being broken down and stranded at 3am in the middle of Spain on the side of a motorway, and being detained in Indonesia for overstaying my visa. It is hard to appreciate the good without accepting the bad.

Pebbles, one of the most outrageously fun set ups in Samoa. Think Blackrock tube and end bowl crossed with a white wash

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I once met a, now good friend - Antonio, over on the West Coast of South Australia. He was Portuguese, had flown into Adelaide, and got a lift over to chase waves with a mutual friend. When I met them over there he’d jumped ship into the car with two guys he’d only just met, and spent the next three months chasing pipes up and down the coast. The guys mad, 3 months out there without a shower or any real female connection is unheard of. Just over a year ago we made contact while my girlfriend and I were traveling through Portugal, and ended up spending just under a month bunking in his Lisbon apartment while his parents were away. Antonio introduced us to all his friends, we chased waves, partied, and psyched out over vintage camera gear together. It was incredible, and despite the waves we did get, I’ll forever appreciate the experiences that made the trip so memorable. The authenticity of these relationships seem to be glued together by a shared passion for everything surf related that only those who’ve experienced it can really understand. Onlooker at perfect, surprisingly uncrowded Padang Padang.

I always get such a buzz from people. People you meet in the places you go, or the incredible, often unrecognised things that people are doing for the love and not for money or social recognition. There’s an argument that, as humans, we They are embedded in the structure of who we are, a further

surf culture, the experiences, lifestyle, creativity, hospitality, and individuals this encompasses, is what keeps the stoke real.

Unspoken crusty local waterman, so much stoke for anything water related.

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You can't tell, but this West Coast

and almost rolled a ski that thought it was in the channel.

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Words by WALK WILD STUDIO Photography by WALK WILD STUDIO

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Walk Wild Studio. Words by WALK WILD STUDIO “Who am I?” is a full on question and one that is not easily surmised. The ongoing mission of self-discovery lingers in my thoughts most nights as I attempt to drift off to sleep. I draw plans in my head for the next couple of months and years, saying “yep, this is where I want to be at a certain point in time”. When I eventually fall asleep it is with a temporary sense of comfort through an uncertain and often open-ended proclamation. I was born into the end of a generation in South Africa. The pregame to Y2K and Smartphones was the foundation of my childhood years. However, I was able to scrape in a couple of genuine years as a youngster growing up in an analog world. This was a golden age where bare feet, scrapes, bruises and endless curiosity was valued and encouraged more so, I believe, than it is today. I still remember the hazy afternoons, sitting in the shore break at Strand Beach - a strip of sand nestled in the Eastern corner of Cape Town’s False Bay. It’s a lazy escape sprinkled with some fun, hollow beach breaks. The sun hangs low in the sky, the glare bouncing of the marbled water giving it a golden sheen. The smell of kelp settles above the surface as the brine surrounds my body, washing away the dirt and soothing the scrapes and bruises. Suspended in time I surrender myself to the existential energy pushing me towards the shoreline and hypnotizing me into a state of stoke way beyond my years. It was my first time ever experiencing that rush that is so familiar to surfers; the boundless grin, throbbing veins and the ignition of an ancient tribal flame. It was my first wave.

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DO YOU CARE TO SHARE? Photography by WALK WILD STUDIO

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Fast forward to today, a world where it’s becoming increasingly challenging to recognise our connection with nature and with each other. We have iPhones, Facebook, Instagram - all to bring us closer - but for some reason we’ve never felt more apart. For most surfers though, there are times when things are simple and make sense, where there is no prejudice to time itself. We sit and wait. We make peace with any external forces thrust into our lives for “we are all equal before a wave”. The ocean doesn’t care about who we are, how much money we have or the colour our skin is. It is this altering benevolent force that seeps into everyone who shares enough of their time in the water. It's our therapist, our church and our meeting room. Our first heavy wipe-out is the callous hand of life striking us down only for us to grow stronger. The ocean has moulded a sub-culture of like-minded beings that share a somewhat filial connection to each other. You could be in the deepest, darkest village somewhere in Indo and still form a strong connection with someone from a completely different walk of life. It’s a true bond that surfers, divers and watermen in general share - we are the children and the ocean is our maternal incarnate. This connection is what I try to embody through my photography. I try to capture as much as I can with as little as possible. Essentially, I try to balance the elements within my frame, solidifying the story. Not too busy, not too aggressive, something that teeters on the proverbial edge of curiosity and beauty.

We are all equal before a wave.

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I have touched on this before but I think it's a good point to raise again on how we are shaped by what is around us. I believe your work is essentially a visual representation of yourself - a window into your vessel. Everyone is different and, as such, they, by definition, have different windows. If our morals, ethics, goals and aspirations are the glass of the window - it is our artistic craft that is the frame. It’s a matter of understanding the frame that fits those windows that will further bind us to who we are and what we want to become. The frame will change and mould to fit the glass and vice-versa. Investing in your frame can cause your glass to become clearer. What you see through that glass or your “view” through, is quite important. For me, the ocean and surfing alike bond to become the view through my window. It’s the catalyst to the formation of my whole window, the ‘who I am’ and the ‘what I want’’. This view plays a part in how we present ourselves to the outside world; how we dress, how we speak and communicate; how we go about our lives every day. It is the realisation that what and who we surround ourselves with makes a difference and is important in the development of our future selves. So, we arrive back to that timeless question of “Who am I”? Lying in my bed, planning the forthcoming months and years, wondering what will or might be. To me, this question will never be fully answered. I do, however, rest assured knowing how I have been shaped and knowing what makes me happy - that big body of water that takes up most of the planet; the Ocean. It has been the underlying factor of my life, from my earliest breath to my latest. It has been my mentor and my friend. It has taught me valuable lessons of humility, patience and helped me craft an appreciation for simplicity in everyday moments.

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“AQUA MOMENTS” Photography by AIDAN STEVENS

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Hey I am Cait. Words by CAIT MIERS. If someone told me when I was 12 years old, that when I grow up I’d have my own business, travelling the globe with a camera and a backpack, I would never have believed them. I always had this crazy dream in the back of my head growing up, that I didn’t want a normal job, that I wanted a lifestyle job. Something adventurous and out of the normal. My parents were avid travellers in their 20’s, worldly people, so I grew up just thinking that’s exactly what you do. It started from a deep love of the ocean, and that visual representation of it through surfing, surf magazines, surf brands, surfers themselves. The girls on the World Tour were my heroes. So I just naturally made a pact with myself that one day I will make heads turn, I’ll do something great and fulfilling and wonderful and wake up every day loving my job. I didn’t know until much later that that was going to be through Photography. I went to a private high school and the pressure was a lot to handle. It wasn’t pressure to do something that would be financially stable, it was the pressure to go to university after school finished. They made it seem like if you didn’t, you were a drop kick and throwing your life away. I wish I knew what I knew now, back then. When I finished year 12, I was heavily into sports and thought a career in sports science and sports management was something I’d love (with the aim of eventually getting into the surf sector through this), so I went straight into a double degree at Deakin. Looking back I was a pretty lost soul that year. Unhappy, just going through the motions of what society wanted me to do. I kept casting my eyes on photography courses and RMIT as it was a more creative university. And three quarters through that year I just decided I’d finish the year and apply for the photography course. I don’t know what it was but something just clicked in me and reminded me I am in control of my life, and can make all the choices to get me to where I want to be. So I did a Bachelor of Photography at RMIT which was gruelling and rewarding and focused heavily on womens surf photography which was a foreign concept to my ‘city folk’ teachers who knew nothing about it. And then I went straight into freelance work straight after uni and have ever looked back!

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IG - @caitmiersphotography HP â&#x20AC;&#x201C; caitmiers.com

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ELISE TRIGGER Photography by CAIT MIERS

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On the road.

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MITCH POPE MICHAEL TARTAGLIA BILLY CERVI JACK Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;GRADY CHARLOTTE PIEPER JAKE KILLEN

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Victoria Words by MITCH POPE Photography by MITCH POPE

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Victoria. Words by MITCH POPE I moved to the Surf Coast when I was eleven and was instantly hooked. Moving from the hills of South Australia to a Surfing inspired area was a fairly big change. Straight away I fell in love with the culture and lifestyle of the whole area; people skating down to the beach, vans with surfboards, being able to surf before and after school with your mates, it’s the dream. Pretty quickly I started to obsess over surfing and the culture and before long, picked up a camera to document it. I was thirteen when I received my first DSLR and I started to shoot everything, with my main inspiration coming from the beauty of the surrounding area, the pink sunsets over the ocean, the thumping beach breaks and the whole surfing culture. In the last 2 years, my photography has allowed me to experience many areas of the South-West Victorian coast and showed me why I like the place so much. The raw power of the Indian Ocean, the towering limestone cliffs, the dense, colour saturated forests and remoteness of some of the places are what draws me straight back, and what tops it all off is when the surf pumps, it’s magical when it all comes together as one. One thing I enjoy the most is that further down the coast you go, you can get a pumping bank or reef all to yourself and feel like you’re in a whole other country. Just you and your mates sharing endless wave after wave, letting go of every problem that has ever bothered you. It’s all about taking it back to the basics and camping beside the shore with your best mates and very few people around, rather than staying in a high-rise apartment in a place where you’re guaranteed to be snaked every wave. Being in the ocean surrounded by tall cliff faces and large hills covered in thick, green forests is amazing, there’s really no other way to explain it

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Desert blue Words by JAKE EDWARDS Photography by MICHAEL TARTAGLIA BILLY CERVI JACK O'GRADY

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SPOT Photography by JACK O'GRADY

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Desert Blue Words by JAKE EDWARDS I’m sitting in the front of my car watching the 10/10 waves roll through and I couldn’t even be bothered putting my wetsuit on, it was at that point I knew it was time to leave. I know I will struggle to roll my shoulders over once I hit the water. Shortly after that moment we packed up the scattered remains of nearly 5 weeks in isolation and headed back to civilization. To give you some context, let me take you back to the start of the trip. I was sitting in my final exam of the semester, believe it or not my mind in fact was not on the Australian judiciary system, however I do dream of one day becoming a Justice of The Peace. My mind was wavering on vivid daydreams of a sunnier and much more exciting existence filled with spitting cobra’s (barrels) and maybe a few red leads (beers). We were venturing into a month-long surf trip with a solid group of mates and a much more solid forecast ahead. Armed with 20 blades between two boys, we were on the road. We had traded the trackies for a pair of boardies and uggboots for a pair of heat-waves (thongs).

MATES Photography by MICHAEL TARTAGLIA

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JOSH CATTLIN Photography by JACK O'GRADY

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JAKE EDWARDS Photography by JACK O'GRADY

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We couldn’t believe our luck, the first few days were pumping which we thought would be the extent of our ideal conditions, little did we realise, it was a case of right place, right time. We got to experience pretty much three weeks straight of the best waves we could have hoped for, every two days there was another swell no smaller than 6 foot that kept us busy, with one swell too big to surf, no one could make the paddle out. By the end of the first run of swell one of the boys had left us and we had adopted another battler. The young fella in question did a 6-week stint in the desert and had an extra week on all of us already, you could tell, it definitely took its toll. He had people coming up to him in the surf saying things like “Hey mate, spoke to your mum before coming up here, she said it’s time to go home”. He even refused to call his dad back, even after being contacted by the main campsite owner, which was the only contact to the outside world. Despite breaking all of his boards, he somehow managed to get a mate bring him more, extending his trip even further. I decided it was my time to go when I was watching perfect waves roll through and making excuses such as ‘ohh it’s a bit offshore’ or “probably too high tide” when the wave needs the highest tide possible and it was pretty much as good as it gets. Five weeks in an extremely isolated but scenic location with 8 mates is the dream, no cell reception, technology semester exam, but with next to no water, minimal available boards and desert had gotten to us all and it was time to head home.

THE TWO ABOVE Photography by JACK O'GRADY

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LOOKING AT LG (LIFES GOOD) Photography by BILLY CERVI

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Photography by MICHAEL TARTAGLIA

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Words by CHARLOTTE PIEPER Photography by CHARLOTTE PIEPER

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Crossing (N)iceland. Words by CHARLOTTE PIEPER I was browsing through instagrams surf gold when my tired eyes got catched by a trailer posted from one of my favorite photographers, Chris Burkard. It was the trailer promoting 'Under an Arctic Sky', showing epic footage of Icelands landscape and coldwater surf. That time my brain already had someâ&#x20AC;&#x161; next-to destinations set but I knew that I had to put Iceland on my list too, as soon as possible. I made a little insta story about the travel ideas and shortly after found myself sending youtube videos of Iceland back and forth with my friend Thierry. You know youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re lucky when you have friends who are as spontaneous as you, especially when it comes to surf trips. We quickly fixed a date for the trip and looked up some surf spots. Four weeks later another friend of us gave it a "yeah!' Thus we booked our fights. From that day on everything went really slow and instead of actually acting we were discussing car colours, alcohol & burning apartments in the group chat. Two days before our planes were supposed to bring us from different parts of Germany all together to our new dream destination, we got the fourth friend in the game, a rental car & an airbnb booked. Hail Team laid-back!

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It was midnight when we found each other at the airport of Reykjavik. We directly grabbed the rental Skoda Octavia, which was quickly renamed to SkodaSon, and went…to the coast. So I found myself on a monday morning drifting into sweet dreams on the backseat of our car. It was cold and still dark when we woke up. We were standing close to the shore, camera in hand and drone set, starring into dawn. Just a few minutes after, Iceland gave us a first glimpse at its amazing scenery with a golden sunrise. That day we started our journey from west to east, passing one waterfall after another, got stuck with the car at the beach as we got over exited about the waves & ended it eating noodles and blueberry cheesecake in an abandoned plane while watching a sunset as golden as the rise. That night I found myself again, sleeping on the backseat, in the middle of nowhere. Instead of much sleep we got strong winds and cold fingers that night as we were hunting strange shaped clouds, hoping to find what we came for. What was next to the surf, the northern lights. When we crawled out of the car in the morning we stumbled in a little viking village up east, with no humans around only a gang of cold defying Icelandic horses. Just arrived on the east we turned around to go back to the west to check into our airbnb in Thorlakshofn. On the way we stopped at a beach packed with massive ice blocks, filmed a mob of reindeer's and pushed SkodaSon to his limits next to expedition vehicles. All glad about a warm night in our cozy beds, we started the Wednesday quite calm squeezing ourselves into 6mm of 'not so elastic' neoprene and went straight into glassy and brain freeze waves at our 'home spot' Thorli. That day I lost one of my fins somewhere between black stones and dark grey seaweed and went from quad to single -a thing which I’m stuck to now. Our second surf sesh on this day ended at a spot which wasn’t in any surf report but we found it while passing it on the road. Imagine you and three friends - and a curious seal. The next day we let the tourist in us gloom and went for some, 'must see' waterfalls and geysir. To get our freezing bodies back to normal again we ended this tour steaming in one of the hot pots. Ready for a late afternoon surf we ended up at our new secret spot again. This time without the little ocean predator but with a bright golden sunset again. It was a soft moody morning as we left pretty early to make our way from south up north. We first tried to take a short cut over the biggest mountain and got stuck for the second time - not in the sand but in the snow. When we found some help in two young Icelanders’ the first time, we found ourselves in the middle of nothing but snow this time. The boys tried to make usage of the stuff in our trunk while I held my camera on the scene. We made it but now it was a long ride around and on the way Thierry got to decide whether he wants to pay cash or go to Icelands' prison for one day for his speeding offence. Through one of the thousand tunnels which crave their ways into harsh fjords we made our journey into Icelands' Narnia, Olafsfjördur. Snowy mountains running into the cold blue ocean. Brown grass, black stones & mostly just the four of us + SkodaSon. We also ended this day with a steam in the hot pot and… some jagertee of an bavarian couple, staying at the same homestay. Paul ended up drunk somewhere at the little village pubs.

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CHARLOTTE PIEPER WALKING FREE Photography by THIERRY FIEGLE

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IG - @lotta_and_the_waves HP â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thesaltyheart.com www.surferscollective.com/projectlotta-and-the-waves/

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Tasmania Words by JAKE KILLEN Photography by JAKE KILLEN LACHLAN MCKENZIE

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Hey I'm Jake. A fairly normal 22 year old guy based in Caloundra on the Sunshine Coast, QLD. My passion is being around the ocean and shooting film, tending to squeeze a sneaky wave in whenever I have the opportunity, sloppy or not (mostly always sloppy). My ocean addiction started at the age of 7. My family used to head down to Byron Bay every Christmas holidays and my Dad was a crazy grom. He still is to this day and pushed me on my first wave. It wasn't until about 14 that I became a sucker for the sport and the lifestyle, addicted I guess! Shooting film happened a little later on in my life and was something I did when I was travelling looking for surf. It was a hobby on the side. Surfing was always the priority. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve now been shooting film for 6 years and it has flown by. Both surfing and taking pics almost fall into the same category now. I have no idea why I started taking photos. I just had a soft spot for the turnout and got way too excited sticking pics into my wall with thumb tacks and looking back on good times. These feature photos are a shared bunch with role model Lachlan Mckenzie of a little trip from my home town to the beautiful Tasmania with some great friends. Tasmania is amazing and I would highly recommend it to anyone, surfer or not. From hiking to waves with no one around to getting bogged searching for waves. Endless warm whisky nights playing cards and early morning tubes. The old cheap hire van (sleeping the 3 of us) was a treat.

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ANAÏS PIERQUET

Photography by 140 MICK ANDREWS

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Dancing free at sea Words by ANAĂ?S PIERQUET As I walk along the shore, I stare and wonder What is it that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m looking for? What are we looking for? I hear the birds whispering there is no such thing as endless freedom only the moments of joy created in the now are golden sparks of happiness The ocean echoes with them I feel lost at sea seeking the deepest horizon of my restless soul I hear the birds whispering If I follow them my mind calms down and my breath rises over the water

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I feel the wind on my face I feel the heart beat in my chest I feel a glimpse of sun on the surface of the sea I feel strong yet sensitive I feel my soul reconnecting to the ocean I feel like nothing else matters everything settles I forget where I come from I forget the definition of who I am I give my love to the Ocean to the Moon to the Earth I hear the birds whispering when you let go of it all when the mind withdraw itself all you can feel is the burning fire of freedom in your soul then you realise the beauty of it all

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I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think anymore feeling the infinite landscape of the big blue as all storms fade away I make peace with my mind there is no where else i wish to be the ocean heals all sorrows we are dancing over time without any expectations sacred souls Unique hearts reaching out for endless emotions that makes us feel alive Time is obsolete now Only love remains As we feel alive we finally find peace we create our freedom our own truth Just like those birds dancing above our heads Dancing free at Sea

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JOHN JOHN FLORENCE 147 Photography by TOM PEARSALL

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Brydie. Words by BRYDIE WASTSON Women of the sea are strong, beautiful, confident and fearless. Living in Byron Bay for the past 4 years, I have been fortunate enough to admire women in the surf community and I am lucky enough to call some of them my closest friends. There is nothing I enjoy more than setting up on the sand and watching my girls shred in the water. Their unique style and grace is mesmerising to observe and I try my best to capture this raw beauty on my trusty film camera. From our local Wategos all the way to Noosa, these photos represent some of the greatest times Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had with some of my favourite women on the sea!

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AMY MARKHAM

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The winners of the 2018 photo competition Featuring: DAMIAN DAVILA (SURF) ALEX MATTIE (TRAVEL) VITOR VIANA (LIFESTYLE) JONO SMIT (PEOPLE) BEN WHITMORE (FILM)

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This image was taken in Portugal in 2017. It was really flat that day, so I decided to get my fisheye lens and paddle out just for the fun, or should I say just stand there in the little mini shore break hehe. My friend a dutch longboarder Oscar Schenk was passing by and I was shooting from underneath to try different perspectives since there wasn't that much action going on, I literally told him before during the session to "just go for it! If you run me over it's my own fault! but you won't I will try to dive fast, I just want to get the shot!" The fun day ended and I went to my computer and downloaded the footage and saw that there were a couple of good ones. I turned it into black and white to give it a little bit more of drama. When you least expect you can get some really interesting moments, sometimes it doesn't need to be pumping to score the cover shots.

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Nothing beats taking your bikes out to open them up along the beach and then to jump in and surf some super fun shorebreak waves. That was our day when this photo was taken. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been to indo, you know motorcycles (or scooters for most) are your main means of travel and well we loved to push that to the limit and really make the place our playground. Putting our love for surf and motorcycles together, there was always tons of fun to be had, sand to be thrown by the wheels and some loud laughs to come along with it all!

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Vitor Viana

Jono Smit

Lifestyle

People

Retirement Plan. It was a classic sunny day in Malibu-CA with really good waves but if you get all the waves you'll need to chill after that haha. That's my dreaming retirement plan, classic waves and snooze on logs.

For me, surf trips are about the people because let's be honest we're always waiting ... waiting for swell, waiting for tides, waiting for coffee. Waves are great but greater are the friends and family you share them with. That's why this image is one of my favourites. Nothing posey or well thought out, just friends chewing the fat and laughing at ourselves.

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Film

Ben Whitmore

Film This one in particular was just a Sunday afternoon at the skatepark with my 4 year old son. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d attempted similar shots to this before, but nothing really clicked. I noticed the little scooter gang hanging at the top of this ramp and kind of liked how evenly spaced they were, so wandered over to grab a quick shot. At the same time, I spotted the jet coming in, so I hustled into place to frame up the kids, knowing that on the Mamiya 7 Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d get one chance at getting the plane and the groms all in the one frame. When I look at it, I like think thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an energy about it. These kids are just at the beginning of their journeys and that plan is going to be their ticket to a wild and crazy world once they're old enough to start travelling. It was just a bit of a contrast that I really liked about it.

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Hunter Vercoe

Alexa Liccardi

Sunrise beach

As if time were honey

Taking photos in the ocean is such a one off experience. I feel like no matter where you are and no matter what the conditions there’s always something interesting to photograph. This day, at Sunrise Beach on the Sunshine Coast where I’m from, everything lined up perfectly. The two surfers in the shot are my good mates Harper (Left) and Cooper (right) and that morning I was shooting for a local clothing line, Velocita.co. Shooting a low angle, with both the chop in the foreground and the sun sitting high behind, creating a cluster of bokeh, I was wanting to capture the ongoing movement and flow of the surfers in a single frame. I chose to shoot in black and white that morning because the backlighting was contrasting the subjects and the sky behind, really well. This photo definitely shows off two of my biggest interests, surfing and photography, and being an amateur photographer, I’m so stoked to be able to share my work with a greater audience.

The scene is set in a small beach town in southern New Jersey. A house full of 25 people and this is its center. Everyone is moving, but my grandma is still. No one knows it yet, but this will be the last summer she sits at the kitchen table of her home on 906 Ocean Ave. Sometimes, this picture makes me think she knew. It’s the summer of 2017 in late August. We’re in the kitchen, but my grandma is somewhere else. Somewhere in between, bargaining with the light. Human nature can be complex like that. You can be in the same room as someone, but entirely different places. This moment was captured using her retired 1975 Nikon, a gift she had given me 7 months earlier. Photography is just about the only thing I know that stops time. It was not until this moment that I fell in love with film photography. It has the ability to transform the most ordinary day into a moment you feel unbelievably lucky to have experienced. This picture taught me that film is magic and that time, well time is like honey.

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Andre Adur

Luke Gouvignon

Burleigh For me, this is a portrait of how some early mornings at Burleigh Heads can be. Colorful, joyful, beautiful. From the window frame of my old van I randomly captured this moment. Nothing planned. Was just in a good spot, in a good moment and able to get the click right. A wonderful morning of incredible barrels, rolling down from the rocks all the way through the beach. Just magical. Just natural. Equipment: Canon 6D / 24-105mm F4

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I drove for about an hour to this wedge one morning. Not knowing if there were any banks, armed with my camera and some flippers, ready to shoot. The waves werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t surfable so it was just me and some dolphins in the water, you beaut. I was using this crazy film (@psychedelic_blues_film). Dustin Adams (@bloboliveradams) exposes to different coloured lights in a small reflective box, pretty much wizardry if you ask me. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a real treat to see what it comes out like and what works best when using it. I shot one and a half rolls and was lucky enough to get some real gems, some of my favourite photos to date. This one in particular stood out to me because of the flare in the lip from some backwash, the light reflecting across the face of the wave and the luck of having the blotches of light on either side of it. It reminds me of fairy floss, v nice.

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Charlotte Pieper

Austin Mullen

First light

Remote Indo

Lotta, Surf & Lifestyle photographer from Berlin, collecting miles between Indonesia and Australia. I took this image for a job the girl in the image booked me for. We went out with the first light and spent a lot of time getting the right shots. Gear: Canon 7D + Canon 50mm 1.4 with SPL splash waterhousing. Theres a small gap in nude photography between aesthetic and tacky. This one just came out great. I guess its the most important to get the person in front of your lens comfy and acting naturally - and then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll catch their emotions forever.

This was shot on our second trip to this particular island last summer. We spent a few weeks here early on, and decided to make the mission back to end our trip spending our last 2 weeks in remote Indonesia. Those who know, know. This island, in particular this wave is very special to me, as we absolutely scored. After months of missing swells, getting deathly sick with dengue, dealing with the relentless crowds that Indonesia offers, we finally found what we came for. I was shooting my friend William Slattery in the water all morning, with a Nikon 610, 50mm, and an SPL waterhousing. We were the only two out. Will kept getting wave after wave. I've never in my life experienced a day like this, the water was crystal clear with an abundance of marine life everywhere you looked. The reef was shallow and sharp, as Will came out of one of the last tubes of the morning I shot this photo. The tide dropped out, and the end section shut down in inches of water. All in all, it was the best day of our trip.

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Josh Ihlendfeldt

Justin Sykes Hi, My name is Josh Ihlenfeldt. I’m from a small suburban area on the east cost of South Africa. I’ve been shooting film since early misfit years, using a camera my dad shot his armature portfolio in the year 72’. The reason why I love the medium so much is the anticipation of each snap, having patience in what you shoot, and to appreciate the process involved in creating each print/scan. In an over marketed world of digital photographers, technology has made instant gratification easy to get off on. I simply shot film because it was cheaper to pick up a cam from a 2ndhand store and shoot a roll and develop it with your mates until the early morning. It’s all in the process. The camera I was using was a Minolta X700 with 200mm lens on Fuji 200C film shot at 500ISO F.16 (sunny 16) to create a deep blue feel to the image. The wave itself breaks ever so seldom. It’s a left slab off the headland of signal hill, Cape Town. The Surfer - Justin Sykes has found a clean wall in the Atlantic in this snap. It’s rad to snap scenes that will be nostalgic even the week after it was taken. It’s the whole mystery of each frame and the awareness of present time, after each wind-back of the crank. There are always scenes to shoot and creativity is abundant with Film.

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The impression that photography freezes or captures a moment in time is cliché. In this photo, I tried to challenge this idea through layering the foreground amongst the middle and back. Allowing moments to exist simultaneously. It was a balmy day in Figueira Da Foz, Portugal. The Gliding Barnacles Surf festival was just catching wind beneath its wings and the smell of freshly applied surf wax was seeping through the air. The car park that lay on the fringes of Cabadelo Beach was churning with festive souls and starry eye’d ramblers, each of them eagerly awaiting their share of the Portuguese rhythmic blue that pulsed just steps away. I meandered down the concrete break-wall that lay silently next to the sand, it’s boulders meticulously strewn out towards the sea gave me the perfect grand stand view to the show unfolding right in front of me. I perched upon the highest point, lifted my camera, my iris adjusted as the light from the viewfinder struck my retinas. It all lined up. Click. Shot on Canon 5D Mark IV Canon 70-200 F2.8”

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Kane Brown

Konrad Brewski

View from the channel

Land locked and surf dreaming

The morning had woken with pouring rain and strong winds that didn’t stop anyone from jumping in the boat before sunrise and heading straight towards Cloudbreak to witness a historical day. You know it’s on when you start seeing surfers like Kelly Slater, Dane Gudauskas, Makua Rotham and many others days prior to the big day with expectation of a similar swell back in 2012. It had morning sickness for probably a solid hour while more and more boats pulled up through out the morning. As it started to clean up only a handful of surfers headed out first to test the waters. After a few bombs got ridden it was go time for the others waiting in the channel trying to psych each other up. Laurie Towner who features in this photo was one of the biggest stand outs of the day. He didn't catch the biggest wave of the day but he paddled into some hell ones, also got towed into some 15 footers. For this shot of Laurie it was a mid sized wave shot a little more pulled back with my wider lens. Between dodging all the sea spray and rain it was challenging to capture a clean crisp shot. Happy how this photo turned out.

I started shooting 35mm film a few months ago and instantly fell in love with it. I love how it trains you to really think images through. Planning and composing your shots perfectly then not getting to see them for weeks later certainly gives you a new perspective on photography. The moment you take out a roll of film you’ve just finished its just like Christmas morning. You want to see it more than anything in the world, and when you actually do, you always have surprises. Whether it's that amazing unexpected light leak that actually fits in perfectly or that little moment you forgot about of when you and a friend hung out down at the local surf shop reminiscing of waves. So if you're in need of inspiration or just want to try something new(old) pick up an old 35mm camera and a roll of black and white and go have some fun. Yewww!

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Issue Three

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AMPING Photography by JONO SMIT

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Issue Three

In loving memory of my beautiful Mother, Louise Jeanne Dillon. 23 February 1955 - 25 June 2018. So much strength and so much love for life, family and friends. It's hard living without your best friend. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve hurt a lot, we all have. Not a day goes past that you are not missed. In the early days of SV, my Mum was our biggest fan. She was our chief proofreader and head of sales and distribution of the mags - in saying this, I mean sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d used to walk into local shops and cafes trying to get the mags in there. She even made an Instagram so she could like our posts. This Issue is dedicated to my beautiful Mum. You were always there to encourage and support me. For that, I thank you. I hope I have made you proud. Love and miss you everyday.

Love Mike.

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GRATITUDE Photography by CHARLOTTE PIEPER

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