AB buying by Joey Cheung

Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Hong Kong Design Institute

ifb

2017 / 2018

Module: Fashion Buying

Module reference: FASH30007

IVE

Module Leader: Lee, Vivian

Fashion Buying Declaration This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook. I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.

Signed ………………………………………………………………(Cheung Ching Yu)………………..…………… Date ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… (Word Count:_____________)

Content Chapter 1: Introduction Chapter 2: Company Profile 2.1 Company Background 2.2 Brand elements 2.3 Key items 2.4 4P analysis 2.5 Sustainability Chapter 3 :Customer Profile 3.1 Customer review 3.2 PEST analysis Chapter 4: Comparison 4.1 Competitor background 4.2 Shop visit 4.3 Product & Price 4.4 Place 4.5 Promotion 4.6 Situation analysis 4.7 Perceptual map Chapter 5: Product Proposal 5.1 Trend Forcast 5.2 Range Plan 5.3 Production Specification 5.4 Fabrication 5.5 Colourway 5.6 Retail plan 5.7 Marketing Strategy Chapter 5: Conclusions Reference Bibliography Appendices A Interview with staff

fig.1 fig.2

1. Introduction

This project is acting as a buyer for agnĂ¨s b, to analyse and assess the market context, customer, product offer and competitive environment by producing a competitor shop report and customer profile board with clear evidence of how the competitors and what criteria for comparative analysis will be used. My research is focus on Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career wear.

Company Profile

2. Company Profile 2.1 Company Background Agnès B. is a french lifestyle brand founded by Agnès Troublé . She opened her first shop on Rue du Jour in Paris in 1975. First store of Hong Kong was launched in 1995. There are 332 retail store and over 2100 employees. It started with womenswear, then extended menswear, kids wear, handbags, jewellery line and even operated cafe, restaurant, flower shop. Agnes b had developed to a lifestyle brand from a fashion brand. It is presenting a lifestyle to customers but not just selling trendy product. Agnès Troublé said “I want to make clothes that can be kept for a lifetime.”. (Agnès Troublé, 2013). Referred to agnès b. official site, Agnès Troublé mix classic fashion codes with streetwear style creating timeless and classic agnès b. collection.

fig.3 ironie mark

fig.5 scarf with star logo

fig.4 handwritten typography

fig.6 lizard

2.2 Brand elements Besides brand logo and french feminine style, agnès b. has 4 iconic elements. First one is handwritten typography. The brand logo of agnès B. and all text on promotion image on official website or media are using handwritten typography font. Second is ironie. According to U+MAG, This is le point d’ironie mark is a art collaboration work with Christian Boltanski and Hans Ulrich Obrist in 1997 which point ironic passages in a text. Then this symbol is frequently use in t-shirt and become a signature of agnès b. Third, star symbol which is a favorite agnès b. symbol by agnes b official page. It frequently use in agnès b product especially in jersey and accessories. Fourth is lizard which is a pet of Agnès Troublé and mainly use in menswear.

2.3 key items Referred to agnĂ¨s b official website, the snap cardigan,the infamous striped t-shirt and the photo style underlines and illustrates are key and classic items of the brand. These key items released every season with different colour, pattern or materials.

fig.7 The photo style underlines and illustrates

fig.8 The infamous striped T-shirt

fig.9 the snap cardigan

2.4 4P analysis Product

Agnès b. presented its autumn-winter 2017-2018 women’s collection under the grandiose paintings of the Turenne gallery at the Hôtel des Invalides. Inspired by a 17th century engraving, she transformed a woven jacquard detail, agnès b. presented a multi-faceted collection. The feminine silhouettes of tailored tweed suits suit the sportswear outfits of sweatshirts and joggers with velvet or neoprene cardigan. As always in her creations, the slightly rough materials, selected with the greatest care, alpaca, flannel and woolen cloth marry with softer materials, silk, mohair and mesh Rachel.

fig.10 agnes b2017 fall winter collection

fig.11 agnes b2017 fall winter runway

Price and Product fig.12

black leather spencer jacket

black fifre jacket

black printed 12 years cardigan

For outer wear, Coat and jacket is form HKD 2700-11500. Cardigan is from HKD 780 to 1100.

fig.13

pearle wool calin pullover

red checked jasmine shirt

black embroidered agnĂ¨s b. brando t-shirt

For womens top Knitwear is from HKD870 to 3200 Shirt is from HKD1193-2700, T-shirt is from HKD505-2060.

fig.14

orange anne blanchard

twin coloured press stud

brown loose-fitting tyra trousers

For womens bottom, Knitwear is from HKD870 to 3200 Skirt is from HKD1060 to 6000, Trousers is from HKD600 to 9000.

fig.15

coloured knit chimene dress

black officer collar mexico dress

For womens one piece, Dress is from 1650 to 4000.

Place There at 62 stores in Hong Kong including different line. Online store is not yet available in Hong Kong. The lines are separated as below: agnès b LA LOGGIA (flagship store involved all line) Fashion agnès b FEMME (Womenswear) agnès b HOMME (Menswear) agnès b ENFANT (Kidswear) agnès b LOLITA (Lolita style subline) agnès b VOYAGE (Handbags) agnès b BIJOUX (Accessories) agnès b MONTRES (Watches) SPORT b. (Sportwear) agnès b le pain grillé (French restaurant, Cafe) agnès b DÉLICES (Chocolate dessert)

Beauty agnès b BEAUTÉ (Cosmetic) Others agnès b fleuriste!! (Flower shop) agnès b la maison sur l′eau (Travel concept store) agnès b CINEMA! (Cinera) agnès b′s LIBRAIRIE GALERIE (Exhibition hall) GALERIE DU JOUR agnès b. (Art gallery)

fig.16

For agnès b. femme et homme line, there are 11 retail stores. Hong Kong 5- Cityplaza, IFC, Pacific Place, Fashion Walk, Time square Kowloon - 5 Elements, Festival walk, K11, Sogo TST, Sun Arcade New territories - 1 New town Plaza For visual merchandising, referred to appendices A, agnès b. mostly used yellow tone light in store and used white spotlight on products. It create a warm and soft atmosphere for customer. Also the store using grey floor and wall with white shelf which create an impression of space. Different lines are separated into different zone clearly giving a clear instruction for customer.

Promotion Agnès b. collaborated with artist or designer such as Willis Earl Beal. Apart from fashion, agnès b. also supporting music especially independent band and sponsor on apparel and held many music festival. In art criteria, agnès b. owned art gallery Galerie du Jour in Paris held art exhibition for artist such as Xavier Veilhan, It helps agnès b. promoting a french freedom lifestyle, increasing social influence.

fig.17

It also held various public relationship events and imc campaign. For example ‘Love goes on’ project in 2015. Referring to Popbee, It celebrating agnes b 20 years anniversary in Hong Kong. Project including live concert, launching first flower shop and graffiti art exhibition. fig.18

fig.19

According to agnès b. official website, agnès b. is the main sponsor of Tara Expeditions which is a science project discovering the ocean environment and assessing climate change. It represent a corporate social responsibility and creating a positive image for agnès b.It also active on both traditional media and digital media. Press release and editorial is published in magazines such as ELLE, harper’s bazaar,

2.5 Sustainability

fig.20

As a lifestyle brand, agnĂ¨s b. did many sustainability project. Referred to agnĂ¨s b. official site, AgnĂ¨s b. has a b.green project from 2007. It sourced organic materials such as cotton, linen, butter muslin in natural colour for collection. Paper bags and all gift wrappings are recycled and c.f.c. free from spring 2007.

Costumer Profile

3.1 Customer review Referred to the interview with agnès b staff in appendices a, agnès b’s main customer group are aged 22-45 female while age 30-50 female are willing to purchasing female mainline apparel. Younger customer aged 15-24 only focus on accessories category like handbags, wallet, jewellery. Customer are mostly senior officer or housewife.They have a high purchasing power and purchasing 20000-30000 once a season. Famine and elegance apparel such as dress, skirt, knitwear are the top selling items. Leather and wool coat are most popular in fall winter collection. Black and white colour is most preferred. They are are looking for high quality material and timeless style. Customer favourite slim cutting apparel, they usually request alteration for a fitter size. However tops like T-shirt and shirt are the slow moving items. Customer think it is too boring and simple, also there a various option in nearby competitor brand.

fig.21

As my observations in appendices b, a part of customer in agnès b carrying Zara home and Muji shopping bags showing they like home decoration and looking for higher living standard. Also half of them are shopping in a 2-3 people group with their family members or partner, it shows they value family and relationships. Customer walking in Agnes b mostly with a full make up and tidy outfitters, it proved they care about their self image who are self confidence. Customer focus in handbags area than other sections.

Custimer Profile

Age: 28-45 Gender: female Occupation: married Taste and preferences: simple and monochrome Education: bachelor degree or above Career: senior officer, management level Income: $18000-$42000 Attitude:

- enjoy leisure life -consider self image -Look for good design and high quality

Lifestyle:

-Enjoy coffee and tea -Love cosmetic goods -Love decorating home -Visit art and design exhibition

Hobbies:

-Reading -Handcraft -Spa -Flower art -Art exhibition

3.2 PEST analysis

fig.22

For Political, sInce female has a higher education than before, women against for their right and fair in society. Target group of agnĂ¨s b are aged 30-50, they entering a stable stage in life and looking for a higher living standard and better living environment. For Economic, most of they are working women enjoy independent finance management, their purchasing power increased and choose a higher quality and design apparel. For social, they look for a stable relationship and family. Also they love their family so they would spend on their family such like buying gifts. For technological, customer prefer functional wear with classic design and high quality material. They tired for following latest trend, they want classic and timeless product.

Comparison

4.1 Competitor background Paul Smith Paul Smith is a Britain fashion brand combing tradition and modernity. According to Paul Smith official site, ‘classic with a twist’ is a guiding principle of the company. It have womenswear, menswear and junior wear. According to Vogue, Smith described his design was well-made, simple cut, interesting fabric and easy to wear. Splash of vibrant colour, floral prints and multi-coloured stripes are the signature of Paul Smith. It is famous for its tailoring and cutting inspired by British traditional menswear. There are over 225 store in global. It targeting a upper to luxury

Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Ralph Lauren is a American fashion brand since 1967. There are over 493 stores in worldwide. It is world’s one of most widely recognised families of consumer brands. It has a great influence fashion especially smart casual wear and work wear. Classic preppy look and vintage wear are the signature of them. It turnover to a lifestyle brand with extended home and license product.

Kate Spade Kate Spade has over 140 retail shops and outlet stores in united states, and over 175 shops internationally. Kate Spade is a affordable luxury brand. It has a large product range including handbags and clothing to jewellery, shoes, stationery, eyewear, baby, fragrance, tabletop, bedding and gifts. become a lifestyle brand. It provide a fresh and young image. Crisp colour, graphic prints and playful sophistication are the signature of its product.

Background

4.2 Shop visit report Observation

Product Comparison

4.3 Product & Price

4.4 Place

Four brands are commonly have store in Festival Walk and Sogo Causeway Bay. Also the official online store is not yet shipping to Hong Kong. To be highlighted, 4 store in Festival Walk located very closely, it provide they have the similar market share.

4.5 Promotion

4.6 Perceptual map

SWOT analysis

Part 1 Website 1. Agnesb.eu. (2017). Women's Clothing - French Designer clothes | Agnès b. EU Official Boutique. [online] Available at: http://www.agnesb.eu/women [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 2. Agnesb.us. (2017). black T-shirt star. [online] Available at: http://www.agnesb.us/black-t-shirt-star-28825 [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 3. Asia.agnesb.com. (2017). agnès b.: history, music, movies, art, humanitarian projects, private collections online | b. side - for a good cause - b. green. [online] Available at: http://asia.agnesb.com/en/bside/section/for-a-good-cause-2/bgreen-4 [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 4. Chaudhuri, A. (2017). The importance of being agnes b.. [online] The Independent. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/artsentertainment/the-importance-of-being-agnes-b-1115111.html [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 5. En.wikipedia.org. (2017). Agnès b.. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agn%C3%A8s_b. [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 6. Europe.agnesb.com. (2017). agnès b. official site fashion show, music, film, art, humanitarian | homepage. [online] Available at: http://europe.agnesb.com/en/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 7. Katespade.com. (2017). kate spade new york - designer handbags, women's clothing, jewelry, and more!. [online] Available at: https://www.katespade.com/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 8. Sean O'Hagan. (2006). Interview: Agnes B. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2006/feb/19/shopping.f ashion [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017].

9. Paulsmith.com. (2017). Paul Smith Asia | Buy Designer Menswear, Womenswear & Accessories. [online] Available at: https://www.paulsmith.com/asia/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 10. POPBEE. (2015). Love Goes On agnès b. 20 – Popbee. [online] Available at: https://popbee.com/fashion/lovegoes-on%EF%BC%9Aagnes-b-special-planning/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 11. Ralph Lauren. (2017). Shop Clothing for Men, Women, Children & Babies. [online] Available at: https://www.ralphlauren.com/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 12. South China Morning Post. (2013). Busy as a b. [online] Available at: http://www.scmp.com/magazines/postmagazine/article/1228310/busy-b [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 13. U-mag.digital. (2017). Revisiting 20 years of “Le Point d’ironie”, a publication by Agnès B. & Hans Ulrich Obrist – U+MAG Digital. [online] Available at: https://u-mag.digital/2017/03/revisiting-20-years-of-lepoint-dironie-a-publication-by-agnes-b-hans-ulrich-obrist/ [Accessed 23 Oct. 2017]. 14. Vogue.co.uk. (2011). Paul Smith. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/paul-smith [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017].

Image Fig. agnès B. at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2013, Colorful Days (2013) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.1 agnès b 2017/18 fall winter collection, facebook (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.2 agnès b 2017/18 fall winter collection, facebook (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. distribution map, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.3 ironie mark, anon (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.4 handwittting typography, agnes b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.5 scarf with star logo (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.6 agnes b lizard, anon (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.7 the photo style underlines and illustrated, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.8 the infamous strip t-shirt, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.9 the snap cardigan, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.10 agnès b fall winter collection, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.11 agnès b fall winter runway, agnès b(2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.12 outer wear product, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.13 women’s top, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.14 women’s bottom, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.15 women’s dress, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.16 IFC store, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.17 art & music, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017

Fig.18 loves goes on, popbee (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig.19 tara expeditions, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 20 b.green project, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 21 agnès b festival walk store, author’s own (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 22 anon, pinterest (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 23 white matsui shirt, agnès b (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 24 women’s white cotton-teill shirt with ’artist stripe’ cuff linings, Paul smith (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 25 relaxed classic shirt, polo ralph lauren (2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017 Fig. 26 delicate poplin shirt, kate spade(2017) [online image] Accessed 23/10/2017

Bibliography 1. Daxueconsulting.com. (2012). Market study: Agnès B in China Daxue Consulting - Market Research China. [online] Available at: http://daxueconsulting.com/agnes-b-in-china/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017]. 2. Europe.agnesb.com. (2017). agnès b. world: news, history, music, movies, art, charity projects | b. side - the world of agnès b. - point d'ironie. [online] Available at: http://europe.agnesb.com/en/bside/section/the-world-of-agnes-b2/point-d-ironie-4 [Accessed 24 Oct. 2017].

Project Title : ………………Fashion Buying………………

CONSENT FORM Please read and confirm your consent to being interviewed for this project by ticking the appropriate boxes and signing and dating this form.

I confirm that the purpose of the project has been explained to me, that I have been given information about it in writing, and that I have had the opportunity to ask questions about the research

I understand that my participation is voluntary, and that I am free to withdraw at any time without giving any reason and without any implications for my legal rights

I give permission for the interview to be recorded by research staff, on the understanding that the tape will be destroyed at the end of the project

I agree to take part in this project

Maggie So ____________________________

Name of respondent

3-10-2017 ________________

Date

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------For office use only Name of researcher taking consent ………Cheung Ching Yu………. Date ……3-10-2017……… Signature

_____________________

Signature

Appendices A - Interview with agnes b staff Q. What are the real customer group of agnes b in your experience? Since the store i worked has a large product range including apparel, handbags, accessories, sunglass etc. Our customer mostly aged in 22-45. Usually female purchasing for themselves. Q. How about male customer? It take a little part of our sales. They usually shopping with their partner and take a look in our store. They mostly looking for gifts to partner. Younger male focus on our smart causal wear like shirt and pants. Q. Then, who are the customer in female apparel? Honestly, customer who purchasing agnes b apparel are mostly local senior office lady or housewife.They aged 30-50 who are joined our VIP membership. We keep contact with they especially new collection arrivals by phone call and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s app. Q. How much they purchase in once? Our customers have a high purchasing power. They average spent 20000-30000 hong kong dollar for once. Q. What items is the most popular? Our customer like feminine and elegance style. Dress and skirt id hot selling items. Our classic cardigan is the best sell which keeping launching different colour and materials. Some of customer even buy all colour for mix and match. Leather and wool coat is the most popular in fall winter season. Black and white items are most prefer. Q. What is the slow moving item? Unfortunately tops like t-shirt and shirt is low response for our customer. They think it is too simple. Q. What are their favourite silhouette? They like slim fit cutting in A line and I line. They always request alteration for a fitter size. We also a free alteration in one time. Q. How often did consumer visit the store? Since most of our vip work or live nearby, they visit once to twice a month. However they are not purchasing at every single time. Q. How they behave when shopping? They usually look for high quality materials such as leather, fine cotton, silk. Q. How about the younger female market? Younger female aged 15-24 focus on our accessories like handbags, small leather goods, jewellery. They are looking for some lower price but classic items. Q. But why the price range so different in mainline apparel with other line? The main line apparel are all made in France with the best technology and materials but other line such as sport b and handbags are made in China or other other east asia countries.

Product Proposal

Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Hong Kong Design Institute

ifb

2017 / 2018

Module: Fashion Buying

Module reference: FASH30007

IVE

Module Leader: Lee, Vivian

18/19 Autumn Winter Trend forecasting

01 Mock Neck

Muse Magazine

The Line

This minimalism elements are key collar trend in A/W 18/19

Victoria Beckham

Celine

02 Wrapped Dress

Draped and wrapped waistline enhance the sliming cutting on visual. Also create a stronger feminine element.

03 Pearl

Stella Mccartney

Paris

It is a key details trend. Apart from jewelry, pearl embellishments on clothing will be a popular seasonal trend. It is eye catching and elegant.

Givenchy

04 Glen Check Riopele

Milan

Seoul

Check become the most popular pattern in autumn winter collection. It mostly used in shirt, blazer and skirt.

Calvin Klein

Tibi

05 Suiting Suiting trend will continue for A/W 18/19 in mainly skirt set than traditional trousers set. A slim straight cut blazer with mini skirt offers feminine element.

Seoul

Tibi

Dazed & Confused

06 Patent Pants Carrot leg trousers will on trend again but the difference is this pants with a gloss surface such as leather and plastic material.

Range Plan

Glen Check Blazer

Glen Check Mini Skirt

Wrapped Dress

Agnes b 18/19 Autumn Winter

Draped Pearl Blouse

Patent Pants

Draped Midi Dress

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

36-44

Style Name Country of Origin

Glen Check Blazer

Style Number Factory Name

XG44TAE6_3080

France

Product Description Double breasted Straight cut Peak lapels Comfort and elegance

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Lining

Fabric mill

Suntal Ltd

Quality#

GF0115

Choi Wan Fei Piece Goods A884

Country of origin

China

Content

100% Polyester

Cuttable Width FOB

50% Wool 50% Polyester 58â&#x20AC;? $4.5

CIF Yardage Yield

$5.4 2.7

$0.72 2.6

Finance Charge

Fabric Cost Total Fabric Cost

$15.31

$1.97

Garments Trims / Button Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

58â&#x20AC;? $0.60

$17.27 Trim Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Shun Kee Button Factory Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

BN1904

$0.08

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005 $0.09

Garment Packaging / Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make $9.5 Total fabric cost $17.27 Total trim cost $0.09 Total packaging cost $0.01 Total first cost $26.96 Duty 20% Total cost $32.4 Table 1: Costing sheeting of Glen Check Blazer *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

Measurement Sheet Grading Size(cm)

Body Length

Chest

42.5

44.5

46.5

48.5

50.5

Chest 1 inch beslow from armhole Across shoulders Sleeve length

47.5

49.5

51.5

53.5

55.5

Collar length

21.5

22.5

Sleeve opening

11.5

Waist size

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

1-3

Style Name Country of Origin

Glen check mini skirt

Style Number Factory Name

I366JQ18_852

France

Product Description A line skirt Short and slightly trapeze line Side invisible zipper Invisible Eyes and hook

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Lining

Fabric mill

Suntal Ltd

Quality#

GF0115

Choi Wan Fei Piece Goods A884

Country of origin

China

Content

50% Wool 50% Polyester 58” $4.5 $5.4

100% Polyester

Cuttable Width FOB CIF Yardage Yield

0.6

Finance Charge

0.5

Fabric Cost Total Fabric Cost Garments Trims /

58” $0.60 $0.72 5%

$3.18

$0.38 $

Trim Supplier

Item code#

Cost per garment

#P67

Quantity / Yield 1

Eyes and hook

Oriental Button & Fashion Accessories Company

Invisible Zipper

YKK

#CONCEAL®

$0.6

Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005

Garment Packaging /

$0.2

$0.81

Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make Total fabric cost Total trim cost Total packaging cost Total first cost Duty Total cost Table 2: Costing sheeting of Glen Check Skirt *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

$6.5 $3.65 $0.81 $0.01 $3,87 20% $4.66

Measurement Sheet Grading Size(cm)

Body Length

Waist size

31.5

34.5

37.5

Tower basin

Bottom width

34.5

37.5

40.5

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

1-3

Style Name Country of Origin

Wrapped Dress

Style Number Factory Name

QC27JCU5_012

France

Product Description Midi length Invisible Zipper Slim cut Minimalist piece Unique shape

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Lining

Fabric mill

Red Star Fabric Limited

Quality#

18248

Country of origin

China

Content

65% cotton 35% polyester

Cuttable Width FOB

58â&#x20AC;? $1.9

CIF Yardage Yield

$2.28 2.8

Finance Charge

Fabric Cost Total Fabric Cost

$6.70

Garments Trims /

$6.70 Trim Supplier

Item code#

Invisible Zipper

YKK

Eyes and hook

Oriental Button & Fashion Accessories Company Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

Cost per garment

#CONCEALÂŽ

Quantity / Yield 1

#P67

$0.2

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005

$0.6

$0.81

Garment Packaging / Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make Total fabric cost Total trim cost Total packaging cost Total first cost Duty Total cost Table 3: Costing sheeting of Wrapped dress *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

$8.5 $6.70 $0.81 $0.01 $17.6 20% $21.1

Measurement Sheet Grading Size(cm)

Body Length

Chest

44.5

46.5

48.5

Chest 1 inch below from armhole Across shoulders

49.5

51.5

53.5

Waist size

Tower basin

100

Sleeve length

Collar length

18.5

19.5

Sleeve opening

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

36-42

Style Name Country of Origin

Draped Pearl Blouse

Style Number Factory Name

L429U179_043

France

Product Description Bell shaped sleeve Pearl button Mock neck Draped texture

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Lining

Fabric mill

Hoover base ltd

Quality#

AA13221

Country of origin

China

Content Cuttable Width FOB CIF Yardage Yield

65% cotton 35% polyester 57â&#x20AC;? $1.55 $1.86 1.6

Finance Charge

Fabric Cost Total Fabric Cost

$2.92

Garments Trims /

Trim Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Pearl Button

Shun Kee Button Factory

#MA4235

$0.06

Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005 $0.07

Garment Packaging / Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make $7 Total fabric cost $2.92 Total trim cost $0.07 Total packaging cost $0.01 Total first cost $11 Duty 20% Total cost $13.2 Table 4: Costing sheeting of Draped Pearl Blouse *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

Measurement Sheet Grading Size(cm)

Body Length

Chest

44.5

46.5

48.5

50.5

Chest 1 inch beslow from armhole

48.5

50.5

52.5

54.5

Across shoulders

Sleeve length

Collar length

18.5

19.5

Sleeve opening

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

36-42

Style Name Country of Origin

Patent pants

Style Number Factory Name

Y239TAE4_790

France

Product Description Carrot leg trousers Gloss surface Zipper with invisible eyes and hook

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Fabric mill

Lining

Quality#

Tai Wah Textile Company 12520

Country of origin

China

Content Cuttable Width FOB

50% PU 50%polyester 55â&#x20AC;? $0.95

CIF

$1.14

Yardage Yield

1.7

Finance Charge

Fabric Cost Total Fabric Cost

$2.03

Garments Trims /

$2.03 Trim Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Invisible eyes and hook

YKK

#HU10

$0.4

Zipper

YKK

#CONCEALÂŽ

$0.6

Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005

Garment Packaging /

$1.01

Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make Total fabric cost Total trim cost Total packaging cost Total first cost Duty Total cost Table 5: Costing sheeting of Patent pants *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

$6.5 $2.03 $1.01 $0.01 $10.50 20% $12.6

Measurement Sheet Grading

Size(cm)

Inside leg

Total length

100

102

Waist size

30.5

32.5

34.5

36.5

Tower basin

Production Specification

Brand

Agnes b

Division

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Career

Season

18/19 Autumn Winter

Size Range

36-42

Style Name Country of Origin

Draped Midi Dress

Style Number Factory Name

O576UAB7_369

France

Product Description Midi Length Draped details Narrow waistband Side invisible zipper

LG Couture

Garment Care Dry Clean

Fabric and trims

Cost sheet Fabric details /

Shell fabric

Fabric mill

Lining

Quality#

Tai Wah Textile company K10527

Country of origin

China

Content Cuttable Width FOB

80% Polyester 20%Cotton 58â&#x20AC;? $0.68

CIF Yardage Yield

$0.816 2.7

Finance Charge

Fabric Cost

$2.31

Total Fabric Cost Garments Trims / Eyes and hook Invisible Zipper Main Label Care Label Total trim cost

$2.31 Trim Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Oriental Button & Fashion Accessories Company YKK

#P67

$0.2

#CONCEALÂŽ

$0.6

Avery Dennison Avery Dennison

#TH01 #TH034

1 1

$0.005 $0.005

Garment Packaging /

$0.81

Pack Supplier

Item code#

Quantity / Yield

Cost per garment

Polybag

Shenzhen B.C Global Import & Export Ltd

2125931

$0.0001

Plastic hanger

Quanzhou Mingxing Garment Accessories Co., Ltd.

H-9203

$0.1

Total packaging cost

Total Cost Cut and make $7 Total fabric cost $2.31 Total trim cost $0.81 Total packaging cost $0.01 Total first cost $11.14 Duty 20% Total cost $13.37 Table 6: Costing sheeting of Draped Midi Dress *All dollars are in USD

$0.01

Measurement Sheet Grading

Size(cm)

Body Length

Waist size

30.5

32.5

34.5

36.5

Tower basin

Bottom width

Fabrication 50% Wool 50% Polyster

50% Wool 50% Polyster

65% Cotton 35% Polyster

65% Cotton 35%Polyster

50% Polyurethane 50% Polyster

80% Polyster 20% Cotton

Due to Hong Kong located in subtropical climate, thick textile is not suitable for Hong Kong market. Blended fabric is chosen such as mixture of cotton and polyester. Refer to appendix A, Agnes b consumer prefer soft and light material so these six materials are chosen.

Colourway

Autumn winter is the season of earth tone. Dark and soft cool tone earth colour is use such as soil brown, ash grey, pearl nude. Black is the bestselling and signature colour of Agnes b. Glossy surface bring freshness and creative for consumer.

Ash brown

Glossy black

Pearl nude

Off white

Ash grey

Soil brown

Pricung Glen Check Blazer

$ 525

Draped Pearl Blouse

$ 265

Glen Check Mini Skirt

Wrapped Dress

$ 175

Patent Pants

$ 335

Draped Midi Dress

$ 205

Since blended fabric is used for production, the cost is rather lower than traditional pure fabric. However, Agnes b keep merchandising in France for brand DNA and value, production cost and labour cost keeping higher than market level. The overall marked price is slightly lower than average.

$ 255

Packaging Present Agnes b packaging bag is a white paper bag with a Agnes b logo. It is simple and common in fashion brand. A eco bag made of linen can replace the past shopping bag. It shows the sustainability concept of Agnes b.

The bag with Agnes b signature handwriting text and lizard logo express the brand elements. Once customer purchasing agnes b product can free for gift with purchasing. It has a high practicality. Consumer can reuse and recycle it which reduce paper shopping waste.

Sustainability As part one mentioned, Agnes b had forced in ecology and environment sustainability such as Tara expeditions project and b.green project. Apart from shopping bag and packaging material, Agnes b can develop dying material or fabric sustainability. Also the brand has bright lighting in retail store and low temperature on floor, electronic equipment can control in an optimum rate. On the other hand, sponsor third world child as charity project can be considered for build up a positive brand image such as clothing sponsorship or build up schools.

Promotion Agnes b focus in art criteria and in past such as pop up store and art gallery of collaboration with artist. Also, the main promote channel is traditional media like magazine editorial. New digital media can use such as social media, digital advisement, sponsorship. Although Agnes b had set up official account for social media, the brand is not active in use which two posts per week. Referred to competitor Kate Spade, Kate Spade uploaded post everyday contain interaction with viewers like questioning, lifestyle sharing. However, post of Agnes b is informational and commercial. Agnes b has already a group a stable customer with high brand loyalty and purchasing power but with the generation passes, Agnes b should go on trend and keep the competitive in market. A new creative channel attracting younger customer should create for reaching a larger market.

Conclusion In conclusion, through the research of in comparative, it found the brand has a room of improvement to reach a larger market. Agnes b has a classic France image while fashion trend changes quickly, classic and simply is not uniqueness enough for gimmick, the brand should change with society for long term. Through trend research analysis, it was found that mainly upcoming trend is match with Agnes bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand image. With the trend elements, it can attract a new younger and high purchasing power customer which reaching a wider market. Although Agnes did a lot on environmental sustainability, low profile and lack of promotion cause public cannot link Agnes b with sustainability. Agnes b can invest more in promotion such as advisement, sponsorship, social media channel to increase interaction with public and being active in media. It finds the infinite potential for Agnes b future direction. New elements and trendy style can be involved to younger and brighter the brand image.

Website WGSN, 2017.The Trouser – A/W 18/19 Category Update[online] Available at: https:// www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/75111/page/7[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN, 2017.The skirt – A/W 18/19 Category update. [online] Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/75361/page/6[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN, 2017.The dress – A/W 18/19 Category update. [online] Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/75461/page/3[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN, 2017.The woven top – A/W 18/19 Category update. [online] Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/75272/page/7[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN, 2017.The woven top – A/W 18/19 Category update[online] Available at: https:// www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/74580/page/3[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN,2017.Key Items S/S 19: China – Women’s & Young Women’s Apparel [online] Available at:https://www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/75085/page/10[Accessed 03/12/2017] WGSN,2017.Office Essentials – A/W 18/19 Apparel Design Capsule [online] Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.eproxy.vtclib9.vtc.edu.hk/content/board_viewer/#/73980/page/1[Accessed 03/12/2017] LG couture, 2017. LG couture [online] Available at: http://www.lg-couture.com/en/ [Accessed 03/12/2017]

Book

Annmarie H. and Dave C.,2015. Essential Marketing models. [eBook]. Smart Insights Limited. Available at:www.smartinsights.com [Accessed 03/12/2017]

Image Fig 1. The line, mock neck t-shirt, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig 2, Muse Magazine, mock neck t-shirt, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig3. Celine, white wrapped dress,WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig4, Victoria Beckham, wrapped dress, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig5, COS, wrapped dress, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig6, WGSN, Paris snapshot, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig7, Stella Mccartney, pearl top, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig8, Givenchy, pearl details,WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig9, WGSN, milan snapshot,WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig10, Riopele,glen check, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig11, WGSN, Seoul snapshot, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig12, Calvin Klein, check suit, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig13, WGSN, Seoul snapshot, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig14, Tibi, suiting, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig15, Dazed & confused, patent pants, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig16, Tibi, patent pants, WGSN (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig17, Glen check blazer, author owned Fig18, Glen check mini skirt, author owned Fig 19, Wrapped dress, author owned Fig 20, Draped pearl blouse, author owned Fig 21, Patent pants, author owned Fig 22, Draped midi dress, author owned Fig 23, Fabric platted, author owned Fig 24, anon, cool tone interior ideas, pinterest (2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig 25, anon, agnes b shopping bag, pinterest(2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017 Fig 26, anon, linen eco bag, pinterest(2017) [online image] Accessed 03/12/2017

Appendices A - Interview with ex-Agnes b staff Q. What are the real customer group of Agnes b in your experience? Since the store i worked has a large product range including apparel, handbags, accessories, sunglass etc. Our customer mostly aged in 22-45. Usually female purchasing for themselves. Q. How about male customer? It takes a little part of our sales. They usually shopping with their partner and take a look in our store. They mostly looking for gifts to partner. Younger male focus on our smart causal wear like shirt and pants. Q. Then, who are the customer in female apparel? Honestly, customer who purchasing Agnes b apparel are mostly local senior office lady or housewife. They aged 30-50 who are joined our VIP membership. We keep contact with they especially new collection arrivals by phone call and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s app. Q. How much they purchase in once? Our customers have a high purchasing power. They average spent 20000-30000 Hong Kong dollar for once. Q. What items is the most popular? Our customer like feminine and elegance style. Dress and skirt id hot selling items. Our classic cardigan is the best sell which keeping launching different colour and materials. Some of customer even buy all colour for mix and match. Leather and wool coat is the most popular in fall winter season. Black and white items are most prefer. Soft textile clothing is also hot item Q. What is the slow-moving item? Unfortunately tops like t-shirt and shirt is low response for our customer. They think it is too simple. Q. What are their favorite silhouette? They like slim fit cutting in A line and I line. They always request alteration for a fitter size. We also a free alteration in one time. Q. How often did consumer visit the store? Since most of our VIP work or live nearby, they visit once to twice a month. However, they are not purchasing at every single time. Q. How they behave when shopping? They usually look for high quality materials such as leather, fine cotton, silk. Q. How about the younger female market? Younger female aged 15-24 focus on our accessories like handbags, small leather goods, jewelry. They are looking for some lower price but classic items. Q. But why the price range so different in mainline apparel with other line? The main line apparel are all made in France with the best technology and materials but other line such as sport b and handbags are made in China or other east Asia countries.