THE RIGHT BIKE FOR YOU
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
WHAT TYPE OF CYCLIST ARE YOU? > SOCIAL
IN ORDER TO DETERMINE THE IDEAL BIKE FOR YOU, FIND YOUR RIDER PROFILE USING THESE CATEGORIES:
YOU LIKE A LEISURELY PEDAL WITH FAMILY AND/ OR FRIENDS ONCE IN A WHILE.
> RECREATIONAL
YOU LIKE TO RIDE ON WEEKENDS WHEN THE WEATHER IS PLEASANT. SPEED IS NOT IMPORTANT TO YOU.
> SPORTY
YOU LIKE TO DO A RACE ONCE IN A WHILE AND JUST WANT TO FINISH WITH A SMILE; OR YOU RIDE TO MANAGE YOUR WEIGHT AND STAY REASONABLY FIT.
> SERIOUS
YOU TRAIN TO DO AS WELL AS POSSIBLE IN A FEW RACES A YEAR; OR YOU RIDE AT LEAST THREE TIMES A WEEK ON AVERAGE.
> COMPETITIVE BEING FIT AND FAST AND ABLE TO RACE WITH
CONFIDENCE IS IMPORTANT TO YOU.
> FANATICAL YOU RIDE AT ANY CHANCE YOU GET AND MAKE LIFE
DECISIONS BASED AROUND YOUR CYCLING SCHEDULE. WHAT’S YOUR COLOUR? TO MAKE THIS GUIDE EASIER TO NAVIGATE, WE HAVE DIVIDED CERTAIN ELEMENTS INTO COLOURS: BLUE – BEGINNER/ENTRY-LEVEL GREEN – INTERMEDIATE/MID-RANGE ORANGE – ADVANCED/TOP-END
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
MOUNTAIN ROAD
TYPES OF BIKES
ROAD BIKE CITY BIKE GEOMETRY FRAME MATERIAL IDEAL FOR
relaxed geometry for an upright riding position steel or aluminium
SOCIAL RIDER
ENTRY-LEVEL ROAD BIKE slightly relaxed for a comfortable GEOMETRY riding position
FRAME MATERIAL IDEAL FOR
aluminium
RECREATION, SPORTY RIDER
COMFORT ROAD BIKE neutral to facilitate a power and comfort GEOMETRY combination
FRAME MATERIAL IDEAL FOR
steel, aluminium, enhanced carbon fibre
SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER
PERFORMANCE ROAD BIKE aggressive for a low, powerful riding position GEOMETRY FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre or titanium IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER WOMAN-SPECIFIC GEOMETRY shorter top tube to accommodate shorter torso FRAME MATERIAL aluminium or carbon fibre IDEAL FOR FEMALE, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER TRIATHLON/TIME TRIAL aggressive for a forward seated, GEOMETRY aerodynamic position
FRAME MATERIAL IDEAL FOR
aluminium or carbon fibre
SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
BIKE >MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN BIKE ENTRY-LEVEL HARDTAIL slightly relaxed for a more upright GEOMETRY riding position
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium IDEAL FOR SOCIAL, RECREATIONAL RIDER PERFORMANCE HARDTAIL aggressive for a more controlled GEOMETRY forward-weighted position
FRAME MATERIAL steel, aluminium, scandium, carbon fibre, titanium
IDEAL FOR
SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
DUAL-SUSPENSION MARATHON neutral to facilitate a power and GEOMETRY comfort combination
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre, titanium 80-110mm SUSPENSION TRAVEL IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER DUAL-SUSPENSION TRAIL slightly relaxed to offer descent control & long-ride GEOMETRY comfort
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre 120-140mm SUSPENSION TRAVEL IDEAL FOR SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER DUAL-SUSPENSION GRAVITY relaxed to offer good descent control GEOMETRY FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre 150-180mm SUSPENSION TRAVEL IDEAL FOR SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER WOMEN-SPECIFIC neutral to facilitate a power and GEOMETRY comfort combination
FRAME MATERIAL aluminium, carbon fibre 80-140mm SUSPENSION TRAVEL IDEAL FOR FEMALE, SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE RIDER
A DUAL SUSPENSION BIKE IS BEST IF YOU ARE: > Over 40 years old (male) > Over 80kg (male) > Female (any age and weight) that’s a SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE or FANATICAL rider > Keen on marathons, stage races, trail riding or Enduro races
A HARDTAIL BIKE IS BEST IF YOU: > Are on a limited budget > Do only short rides (under 2 hours) > Are keen on cross-country racing > Are fixated on light weight
FRAME
FRAME MATERIAL AND GEOMETRY THE FRAME IS THE STRUCTURE AROUND WHICH YOUR BIKE IS BUILT AND THEREFORE THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR WHEN MAKING A BUYING DECISION. MOST BIKE BRANDS WILL OFFER THE SAME FRAME FOR DIFFERENT MODELS WITHIN THAT BRAND’S RANGE, WITH PRICE-POINTS CHANGING BASED ON THE PARTS AND ACCESSORIES ON EACH FRAME.
FRAME MATERIAL Bicycle frames are made with different materials. Here’s a summary of the four most popular and their characteristics:
STEEL: rather heavy and not too responsive – used more on utility bikes than performance bikes
ALUMINIUM: light and strong and offers very a responsive, but slightly hard ride CARBON FIBRE: very light and strong, but very rigid, offering a fast, but hard ride
TITANTIUM: very light and strong,
FRAME GEOMETRY The geometry of the frame refers to the angles of the tubing, mostly the headtube and seattube, which affect the rider’s position on the bike. There are three main types of geometry:
RELAXED GEOMETRY - puts the rider in rearward-weighted, upright position. This is best for riders that prioritise comfort over performance. On dual suspension mountain bikes, however, the gravity-centric bikes have a more relaxed geometry to offer better control when descending.
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1 - Fork 2 - Headtube 3 - Toptube 4 - Seattube
AGGRESSIVE GEOMETRY - puts the
HEAD TUBE ANGLE
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
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rider in a central-weighted, partiallycrouched position. This is the most common geometry, with small variations between the different brands. It ensures a position that delivers a combination of comfort and control. rider in a forward-weighted, crouched position. This is best for riders that prioritise performance over comfort. It’s largely used on bikes designed for racing.
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NEUTRAL GEOMETRY - puts the
but not super-rigid, offering a slightly plush, fast ride
SEAT TUBE ANGLE
BIKE >ROAD MOUNTAIN BIKE
SIZING CHART - MEN Rider height in cm 148 - 152 152 - 160 160 - 168 168 - 175 175 - 183 183 - 191 191 - 198
SIZING CHART - WOMEN
Suggested frame size 47 - 48 49 - 50 51 - 52 - 53 54 - 55 56 - 57 - 58 58 - 59 - 60 61 - 62 - 63
5 - Downtube 6 - Bottom Brackett 7 - Seatstays 8 - Chainstays
XXS XS S M L XL XXL
Rider height in cm 147 - 155 155 - 160 160 - 165 165 - 172 172 - 180 183 - 191 191 - 198
Suggested frame size 44 - 45 - 46 47 - 48 - 49 50 - 51 - 52 53 - 54 - 55 56 - 57 58 - 59 - 60 61 - 62 - 63
XXS XS S M L XL XXL
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GROUPSET THE GROUPSET IS THE COLLECTION OF THE WORKING PARTS ON THE BIKE AND GENERALLY INCLUDES:
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THE DRIVETRAIN
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THE GEARS
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> REAR DERAILLEUR > FRONT DERAILLEUR > REAR SHIFTERS > FRONT SHIFTERS > CABLES
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SIZING CHART - MEN 1 - Suspension fork 2 - Headtube 3 - Toptube 4 - Seattube 5 - Downtube 6 - Bottom Brackett 7 - Seatstays 8 - Chainstays 9 - Rear shock 10 - Suspension pivot
Rider height in cm 148 - 158 158 - 168 168 - 178 178 - 185 185 - 193 193 - 198 191 - 198
Suggested frame size 13 - 14 15 - 16 17 - 18 19 - 20 21 - 22 23 - 24 61 - 62 - 63
XS S M L XL XXL XXL
SIZING CHART - WOMEN Rider height in cm 148 - 158 158 - 168 168 - 178 178 - 185
> CHAINRINGS > CRANKS > CHAIN > CASSETTE
Suggested frame size 13 - 14 15 - 16 17 - 18 19+
XS S M L
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
All levels of groupset perform the same function, but the lower-end models will have less gears and will be heavier. As you move higher up the groupset models, the number of gears increases, and/or the weight becomes lighter and the durability is better.
The groupset is one of the most important features of your bike, as it is the sum of the working parts and directly contributes to performance and enjoyment. The groupset models below are arranged within brands, starting with the cheapest and moving down towards the best quality/most expensive.
ROAD BIKES - Claris 8-speed - Sora 8/9-speed - Tiagra 9/10-speed - 105 10-speed - Ultegra 10-speed - Ultegra Di2 10-speed electronic - Dura-Ace 11-speed - Dura-Ace Di2 11-speed electronic - Apex 10-speed - Rival 10-speed - Force 10-speed - Force 22 11-speed - Black Red 11-speed - Red 10-speed - Red 22 11-speed
- Veloce 10-speed - Centaur 10-speed - Athena 11-speed - Chorus 11-speed - Record 11-speed - Super Record 11-speed - Athena EPS 11-speed electronic - Record EPS 11-speed electronic - Super Record EPS 11-speed electronic
MOUNTAIN BIKES - X3 7-speed - X4 8/9-speed - X5 9/10-speed - X7 10-speed - X9 10-speed - X0 10/11-speed - XX1 11-speed - Tourney 8-speed - Altus 8-speed - Acera 8-speed - Alivio 8/9-speed - Deore 9/10-speed - Deore XL 9-speed - Hone 9-speed - Zee 10-speed - SLX 9/10-speed - Deore XT 9/10-speed - Saint 9-speed - XTR 10-speed
GROUPSET
FRAME
MOUNTAIN BIKE
AFTER THE FRAME, THE WHEELS ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENT OF YOUR BICYCLE. THE WHEELS SPECCED ON NEW BIKES ARE MATCHED TO THE PRICE CATEGORY.
IDEAL WHEEL SIZE FOR YOU ? MOUNTAIN BIKES FOR ADULTS COME IN THREE DIFFERENT WHEEL SIZES. IN ORDER TO DETERMINE THE MOST APPROPRIATE WHEEL SIZE FOR YOU, HERE’S A GUIDE:
Entry-level bikes will come with heavier wheels, while more expensive bikes will come with lighter wheels.
Once you’ve bought a bike that fits your budget, start saving to treat yourself to a new wheelset – it’s the best upgrade you can make on your bike.
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OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
A 27.5ER IS IDEAL IF YOU: Are female Are a male under 165cm in height Are keen on cross-country racing Are keen on technical trail riding Are keen on enduro racing A 26ER IS IDEAL IF YOU: Are a teenager Are shorter than 155cm in height Are unsure if mountain biking will be ‘your thing’ Are on a really tight budget
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27.5
A 29ER IS IDEAL IF YOU: Are over 1.80m tall (male) Participate in marathons/stage races Are concerned about your time in races Are a strong rider (male and female)
The lighter your wheels, the more efficient they are, markedly improving your bike’s overall performance.
1 - Rim 2 - Spokes 3 - Hub 4 - Tyre 5 - Quick-release
WHAT IS THE
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WHEELS
WHEELS
TYRES
ROAD BIKE ROAD BIKE TYRES AREN'T AS COMPLEX AS MOUNTAIN BIKE TYRES, BUT THERE ARE SOME IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE: WIDTH: They come in various widths, ranging from 18-25mm. There are wider tyres, but they're mostly used on tandems and touring bikes. Wider tyres offer more comfort, while narrower tyres offer less rolling resistance. PUNCTURE PROTECTION: Tyres reinforced to be more puncture resistant are heavier, but more more reliable.
FOLDING: Folding tyres don't have a wire bead so can collapse for easy portability. They're also about 100g lighter than a standard wire-bead tyre – and more expensive.
CLINCHER: Most tyres are 'clincher style', which requires an inner tube and which hooks into the rim.
BIKE >MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN BIKE
TUBULAR: A sealed tyre-tube
TUBED AND TUBELESS: Most bikes come with
combination that is glued to a special rim. These are very light and expensive and used mostly by professional racers.
tubed tyres, but can be converted to tubeless. Tubeless tyres have no tube but the tyre and rim are one sealed unit that contains a liquid sealant that seals small punctures while you are riding. Tubeless tyres cannot pinch-flat. You minimise puncture risk significantly with tubeless.
TREAD: Most tyres are slick or have a small grooved tread. The grooves don't offer traction benefits, but help minimise the amount of water sprayed up by the tyres in wet conditions. COMPOUND: The composition of the tread that determines road surface grip. Softer compounds offer more grip but are less durable than harder compounds. Some tyre models use a combination of the two. TUBES: Until tubeless road tyres become the norm (it's in progress), tubes will be essential spares on every ride. Never run low on spare tube stock...
MOST ROAD TYRES ARE SLICK WITH A THIN GROOVE PATTERN
DIAMETER: This is the same measure as wheel size – the distance across the tyre. The current range of tyres across all popular mountain bike sizes is: Kiddies/Youth – 12-inch, 16-inch, 20-inch, 24-inch; Adult: 26-inch, 27.5-inch, 29-inch.
WIDTH: This is the broadness of the tyre. A narrower tyre will weigh less, shed mud well
TREAD PATTERN: An aggressive tread pattern will have bigger knobs and a square-edged profile to provide excellent traction – ideal for a front tyre. A moderate tread pattern will have smaller, closer spaced knobs with a rounder profile to provide lower rolling resistance – ideal for a back tyre.
SIDEWALL: Tyres with reinforced (thicker) sidewalls, are a little heavier, but offer increased resistance to sidewall cuts.
THE BEST TYRE FOR YOU? CONDITIONS Dry, hard surfaces – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobs Damp, soft surfaces – narrower tyres with wider spaced knobs Rocky terrain – wider tyres with reinforced sidewalls and moderately–widely spaced knobs TYPE OF RIDING Dirt roads and basic trails – wider tyres with moderate-closely spaced knobs Intermediate trails and marathon races – wider front tyre with aggressive knob pattern; rounded profile faster-rolling rear tyre. Both should have reinforced sidewalls. Advanced trails and serious gravity riding or racing – very wide tyres with aggressive knob pattern and reinforced sidewalls ROUND PROFILE MODERATE TREAD PATTERN
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
and grip better in damp conditions. A wider tyre will provide a greater surface area for traction in firm and dry conditions and will be more comfortable due to the greater air volume. It’s best to go for a slightly wider front tyre for optimal traction in corners.
SQUARE EDGED AGGRESSIVE TREAD PATTERN
THERE ARE TWO MAIN BRAKE TYPES – MECHANICAL (COMMONLY REFERRED TO AS SIDE-PULL BRAKES OR V-BRAKES) AND HYDRAULIC BRAKES, FOUND ON MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES. HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES:
CARE AND REPLACEMENT
> > > >
Brake pads on both braking systems wear down with use and should be replaced when braking performance becomes poor.
are very powerful and reliable in all conditions operate with hydraulic fluid movement in a sealed system are more expensive than mechanical brakes are high-precision with very limited adjustability
MECHANICAL BRAKES: > moderately powerful and less reliable in wet conditions > operate with a mechanical cable system > are less expensive to buy and maintain than hydraulic disc brakes > Are easy to adjust
MECHANICAL
The duration of the pads’ life will depend on how often the bike is ridden, how hard the rider is on braking and the kind of conditions in which the bike is ridden – wet and muddy conditions can accelerate brake pad wear significantly. Expect to replace brake pads regularly if you ride often. See it more as an investment in your safety than an extra cost.
HYDRAULIC DISC
GEARS MOST ADULT BICYCLES THESE DAYS COME WITH GEARS. GEARS ARE EVEN PREVALENT ON MANY KIDS’ BIKES. THE GREAT THING ABOUT GEARS IS THAT THEY ALLOW YOU TO PEDAL UP AND DOWN JUST ABOUT ANY GRADIENT ON ANY SURFACE. THERE ARE VARIOUS GEAR OPTIONS ON NEW BIKES, WHICH CAN BE CONFUSING. HERE’S A BASIC EXPLANATION: 1. FRONT DERAILLEUR: This shifts the chain between the chainrings. 2. REAR DERAILLEUR: This shifts the chain across the various sprockets 3. CASSETTE: This is the group of sprockets fixed to the hub on the back wheel. There are between eight and 11 on modern bicycles. 4. CRANKSET: The levers that link your pedals to your chainrings 5. CHAINRINGS: These are the big cogs attached to the cranks/ pedals. There are between one and three on modern bicycles 6. CHAIN: The ‘thread’ that connects the chainrings and the cassette 7. PEDAL: This is where the pedal goes to give you a platform on which to power the entire
drivetrain. GEAR OPTIONS To determine the total number of gears on a bike, you multiply the number of chainrings by the number of sprockets.
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
So 3 chainrings x 10 sprockets = 30 gears. In recent years, there’s been a shift towards simplification by parts manufacturers, which has led to the speccing of two chainrings or even one chainring. By increasing the number and tooth-count of the rear sprockets, they’ve managed to create a satisfactory range of gear ratios with less hardware. SHIFTERS: Gear shifters are situated on your handlebars so that you can shift without compromising control. They come in two main styles – ‘rapid-fire’ levers and ‘twistshift’. Most gears are operated mechanically via cables, but some top-end road cycling systems have electronic shifting options.
GEARS
BRAKES
BRAKES
HOW MANY GEARS SHOULD YOU HAVE? THERE’S NOT REALLY A RIGHT OR WRONG ANSWER TO THIS QUESTION AND IT CAN VARY FOR ROAD CYCLING AND MOUNTAIN BIKING. HOWEVER, HERE’S A GENERAL GUIDE: > 3 CHAINRINGS (24-30 GEARS): SOCIAL, RECREATIONAL, SPORTY RIDER > 2 CHAINRINGS (18-22 GEARS): SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER > 1 CHAINRING (10-11 GEARS): SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDER
SUSPENSION
SUSPENSION FORK MOST MOUNTAIN BIKES COME WITH A SUSPENSION FORK, WHICH ADDS COMFORT AND CONTROL TO YOUR RIDE. HERE ARE THE MAIN TERMS RELATING TO SUSPENSION AND WHAT THEY MEAN: TRAVEL > SHORT-TRAVEL FORK: 80-110mm. Designed for
smooth–moderately rough terrain. Found on entry-level bikes and bikes for marathon and cross-country racing.
> MEDIUM-TRAVEL FORK: 120-140mm. Designed for
moderate-rough terrain and medium-long descents. Found on bikes that offer slightly relaxed geometry, ideal for all-day riding and aggressive trail riding.
> LONG-TRAVEL FORK: 150-170mm. Designed for rough
terrain and steep or long descents. Found on bikes with relaxed geometry designed for descending at speed
LOCKOUT Most forks have a lockout option with a lockout switch on the fork. More expensive models have a remote lockout lever, which allows you to operate the fork setting without removing your hand from the handlebar. You would lock the suspension
out on smooth roads or up long, predictable climbs to eliminate ‘bobbing’ and improve efficiency.
COMPRESSION This is the speed at which the fork uses its travel/absorbs impact when you hit an obstacle. Too slow and the ride will be harsh. Too fast and the fork will 'bottom out' easily, making for a harsh ride.
REBOUND This is the speed at which fork bounces back to its original position after compressing on a bump. This can be adjusted on mid-range and top-end forks. You would adjust the rebound to improve the overall smoothness of the ride. Too fast and the ride becomes bouncy and unstable; too slow and the ride becomes harsh and hard on the body.
SAG This is how much of the fork travel is used when you sit on the bike without pedalling (determined by your body weight). This needs to be between 20-30% of the total travel and can be adjusted by adding or removing air pressure. You need a shock pump to add or remove air pressure. You would adjust sag when you buy the bike (initial set-up) and then around once a month to ensure the air pressure remains consistent and appropriate for you.
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
REAR SHOCK A rear shock improves overall ride comfort and control, but is more costly. There are different makes and models of rear shock incorporated into various suspension frame designs, but most operate on an air-based system and can be set harder, softer or completely locked out. As with a suspension fork, you can set sag, compression and rebound speeds according to your body weight and/or riding style.
1 - Steerer tube 2 - Crown 3 - Stanchion Brace 4 - Air pressure inlet 5 - Dropout 6 - Rebound adjuster 7 - Travel adjuster/lockout and Compression adjuster 8 - Stanchion 9 - Lower 10 - Through-axle
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CONTACT POINTS
BACKSIDE - SADDLE IF YOU’RE NEW TO CYCLING, YOU’RE GOING TO ENDURE A SHORT ‘BREAKING-IN’ PERIOD TO GET USED TO SITTING ON A SADDLE AND PEDALLING. IF, AFTER A WHILE (5-6 RIDES OR 10-14 DAYS), YOU ARE STILL EXPERIENCING SADDLE DISCOMFORT, ASSUMING YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CYCLING SHORTS, THEN YOU NEED TO CONSIDER A DIFFERENT SADDLE. Saddles are quite personal because we all have different shaped bodies and sit slightly differently when pedalling. It’s crucial to get the right saddle for you otherwise you won’t look forward to riding your bike like you should. The saddle the bike is sold with isn’t necessarily incorrect, but it may just not be the correct saddle for you. THE KEY POINTS ABOUT SADDLE COMFORT: > GENDER – the female body is
obviously different to the male body and therefore requires a saddle that’s designed for female comfort.
> WIDTH – generally, women and
large men are more comfortable on a wider, less-curved saddle because of a wider pelvic structure than medium and small men.
> SHAPE – Different saddle
WIDER, HIGHER DENSITY SADDLE
NARROWER, LOWER-DENSITY SADDLE
WOMEN-SPECIFIC SADDLE
shapes (even slightly different) can make a difference to riding comfort due to the different pressure points it develops.
> DENSITY – a softer saddle isn’t
necessarily more comfortable than a hard one. In fact, most often a higher-density saddle is better because it creates less friction than a lowerdensity saddle.
SAME SADDLE MODEL, DIFFERENT WIDTHS
CHOOSING THE RIGHT SADDLE: > We have an in-store saddle fitting system that can assess which is the best type of saddle for you. This is free, non invasive and takes only a few minutes and could make the world of difference to your comfort. > Once you find a saddle that suits you, it is likely to last you for a few years, assuming it doesn’t get damaged. If you ride both road and mountain bikes, it’s worth buying the same saddle for both bikes. > To determine a position of optimal comfort and control, you should get a professional bike set-up done. We offer this in-store at an additional cost. It requires an appointment and will take 45-60 minutes. It’s time and money that you are investing in your health, fitness and long-term enjoyment of cycling.
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
EXTREME CURVATURE (TOO NARROW)
SHALLOW CURVATURE (OPTIMAL WIDTH)
CONTACT POINTS
HANDS - HANDLE BARS/STEM WHEN RIDING YOUR BIKE, YOUR HANDS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR SUPPORTING YOUR UPPER BODY, CONTROLLING THE STEERING AND OPERATING YOUR GEARS AND BRAKES. THEY’RE A KEY CONTACT POINT WITH YOUR BIKE AND THEREFORE NEED TO BE CAREFULLY CONSIDERED IN TERMS OF COMFORT.
ROAD BIKE WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM THE CENTRE OF THE BAR ON THE RIGHT TO THE CENTRE OF THE BAR ON THE LEFT. > A wider handlebar gives you more steering leverage and opens up your chest more for more efficient breathing. > A narrower handlebar can reduce muscular tightness and fatigue in your back, neck and shoulder muscles. > As a starting guide, your handlebar width should match your shoulder width. Handlebars are measured in centimetres between 36 and 46.
REACH: THE WIDTH OF YOUR HANDLEBAR FROM THE ‘TOP’ TO THE END OF THE ‘DROPS’ AS SEEN FROM THE SIDE.
which can be uncomfortable, as it forces more of your weight onto your arms instead of distributing your weight between your arms and your backside.
BIKE >MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN BIKE WIDTH: THE MEASUREMENT FROM ONE
BACK-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE
END TO THE OTHER END.
HORIZONTAL CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.
> A wider handlebar gives you more leverage and control, but too wide can cause wrist and hand discomfort.
DROP: THE DEPTH OF THE BAR CURVE.
RISE: THE VERTICAL DISTANCE OF THE
> A drop that’s too deep will rotate your hips too far forward, causing pressure on your pirenium and strain on your hamstrings.
CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS.
> If the reach is too long, it can pull you forward on your saddle
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
UP-SWEEP: THE ANGLE OF THE VERTICAL
> A too-narrow bar can compromise bike control and cause unnecessary arm muscle strain, especially in the triceps. > The general starting width should be 10-15cm wider than your shoulders. Wider bars can usually be trimmed to suit you.
> A too-deep drop also forces you to lift your head higher to look ahead, creating neck muscle stress.
> This angle can vary for different shape handlebars allowing a rider to find the most comfortable wrist/hand position. CURVE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE BAR TO THE ENDS. > This angle can vary for different shape handlebars allowing a rider to find the most comfortable wrist/hand position.
Top view Back-sweep
> A flat or straight handlebar with no rise gives you more weighting over your front wheel, which improves cornering and climbing control. Ideal for those racing marathons, stage races and cross-country races. > A riser – or semi-riser – handlebar offers a more comfortable, upright positions, ideal for riders that aren’t concerned about racing, or who do a lot of gravity-related riding.
Front view Rise
STEM: THIS IS THE STRAIGHT TUBE THAT CONNECTS YOUR HANDLEBAR TO YOUR FRAME. STEMS COME IN A VARIETY OF LENGTHS AND ANGLES, WHICH ALLOWS YOU TO FINE-TUNE YOUR IDEAL HANDLEBAR SET-UP.
Flat or straight bar
Semi-riser bar
Riser bar
CONTACT POINTS
FEET - PEDALS YOUR PEDALS ARE OBVIOUSLY THE PLATFORMS THAT ALLOW YOU TO PROPEL THE BIKE FORWARD WHEN PEDALLING; THEY’RE ALSO ‘PEGS’ THAT SUPPORT YOUR BODYWEIGHT, ALLOWING YOU TO CONTROL YOUR CENTRE OF GRAVITY AND BODY POSITION.
FLAT
WHY GO CLIPLESS? THIS IS THE MOST POPULAR AND EFFICIENT PEDAL TYPE AS IT OFFERS THESE BENEFITS: > SAFETY – being anchored to your pedals allows you to be more stable and in control when descending and cornering > EFFICIENCY – you can push down
FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE TOE CLIP
AND PULL UP when pedalling, using more of each pedal stroke for propulsion
TYPES
> SIMPLICITY – Once you’ve mastered the
There are four main pedal types:
cleating in-and-out process, there’s no thought required on foot placement on your pedals
> FLAT: the most basic pedal. Ideal for: SOCIAL OR RECREATIONAL RIDERS > FLAT WITH ADJUSTABLE TOE CLIP:
> INJURY PREVENTION – Pedalling is a repetitive action that can lead to chronic
FLAT-PLATFORM
allows you to secure your feet to your pedals for improved pedalling efficiency.
Ideal for: SPORTY RIDERS > FLAT-PLATFORM: a more advanced style of flat pedal, usually wider and made from more durable, lighter material.
Ideal for: SPORTY YOUTH RIDERS; SERIOUS GRAVITY RIDERS
CLIPLESS - ROAD
> CLIPLESS: the most efficient
pedal system that mates your pedal to your cycling shoe. This requires buying a cyclingspecific shoe to which you can fit the cleat.
CLIPLESS - MOUNTAIN BIKE
Ideal for: SPORTY, SERIOUS, COMPETITIVE, FANATICAL RIDERS
OUR SIMPLE GUIDE TO BUYING THE RIGHT BIKE FIRST TIME
injury or discomfort through poor alignment. The lateral ‘float’ offered by most clipless pedals allows for biomechanical nuance forgiveness and reduced injury risk
> DURABILITY - entry- and mid-range
clipless pedals are robust and can last for years, requiring minimal maintenance. You will need to buy new cleats from time to time as these wear with use.
Note: There is a steep, but short learning curve associated with clipless and flat with adjustable toe clip pedals. The reward is that the transformation from flat or flat-platform pedals is significant for anyone that enjoys cycling regularly.
ONCE YOU’VE MADE YOUR BIKE CHOICE, CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING ASSOCIATED SERVICES THAT WILL ENSURE YOU GET MAXIMUM RETURN ON YOUR NEW INVESTMENT:
TOYOTA SUPERCYCLING CLUB
South Africa’s largest cycling club that offers support for new and experienced cyclists with organised, safe training rides and loads of member benefits.
FITTRACK
The personalised online coaching system that can take you to your goals based around your lifestyle and time-constrained schedule. CYCLE LAB ONLINE When convenience is critical, our online store offers the widest range of bikes, spares and accessories.
PWC BIKE PARK A international-standard trail park graded for Beginner, Intermediate and Advanced mountain bikers and safe for women and children. CYCLE LAB WORKSHOP We’ve taken South African bike servicing and maintenance to a new level, both in terms of quality and service.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ALL OF OUR SERVICES, VISIT WWW.CYCLELAB.COM
Tel: 011 707 4700 > email: retailmanager@cyclelab.com Address: GPS co-ordinates: