INK MAGAZINE - DECEMBER 2024 by Ink Publications

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"I heard a bird sing in the dark of December. A magical thing. And sweet to remember. We are nearer to spring than we were in September. I heard a bird sing in the dark of December."

— Oliver Herford

In 2002 I sat down with a mission in mind. I was the photo editor at a small local newspaper called the Main Street News. Remember when we had cute little local newspapers, and when it was a big deal to have your picture in one? I was being sent out to take photos to accompany stories of local people doing big things. Driving out to gravel driveways to meet with real people.

This inspired the magazine you are holding in your hand and is still the driving principle behind INK. Life being lived in the area in which you are currently living. You could have an INK Magazine anywhere because it is about everywhere.

In 2005 I met the Co-founder, and we proceeded to take my original idea and run it up the ﬂagpole to see if anyone salutes it...and they did. Here we are now 20 years later as this is an anniversary issue.

I remember back around the third or fourth issue wondering if I would be able to come up with enough interesting stories to fulﬁll the hungry month-to-month demands of this magazine. Well, two decades later the answer is apparently, yes. We have met and featured so many brilliant, passionate, and interesting people at various points in the stream of their lives, and you have told us over and over that you enjoy reading INK. We are thankful for ALL of our loyal sponsors for keeping this magazine free to the public.

Advertising Contributors

Susan Cornell - editorial Deana Simmons - editorial Rona Mann - editorial

I wish everyone peace and contentment this holiday season. On the Cover: Holiday Courtyard, Courtesy Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum

Carolina Marquez-Sterling - design

Gregory Post - editorial Jan Tormay - editorial

Bob Houde - Eastern Connecticut bob @inkct.com 860.303.6690 Star Rueckert - Greater Connecticut star@inkct.com 860.876.3314 Rona Mann - Greater Connecticut six07co@att.net - 401-539-7762 Richard Malinsky - Shoreline richard@inkct.com - 215.704.9273

Jeffery Lilly founder / publisher

Cora Ogden, Cherries and Asters, Oil, 20 x 26”Christina Grace Mastrangelo, Patience & Wisdom, Oil, 24 x 25”

By Rona Mann / Photography Jeffery Lilly Image

izzie Mitchell was lost. Not geographically, but lost in spirit, in direction, and in her heart.

The young woman from Western Massachusetts had gone through a bad patch…loss of a long-standing teaching career, a painful divorce, a serious health crisis. She needed to make a change. One day, a friend who lived on the shoreline called and asked if she wanted to come down to the beach for the day. “It might do you some good.”

Mitchell accepted the offer, came down just for the day to Harvey’s Beach, and never went home again. That’s figuratively. A talented writer by proclivity and a teacher by formal education, she was trying to figure out how she could parlay that into making a living in Old Saybrook, but the pull of the ocean was just too great, so without secure employment, she moved anyway. One day, feeling lonely she decided to venture out and found herself sitting at Sip Wine Bar. It didn’t take long, because it never does, that she met a friend. The new friend was Derrik Kennedy, co-owner along with his wife, Kelley of Sip. They got to talking, pretty soon Lizzie got to smiling. Then somewhere in the middle of the conversation Derrik asked, “How would you like to work here part-time?”

The young woman didn’t have to think long. She began working at Sip as a server, soaked up all the continuing education Derrik made available, has since moved up to the position of co-manager, and now Lizzy Mitchell smiles all the time as the venue’s Communications Manager saying, brightly, “I am so proud of what we have here and who we are. We are a melting pot of people, a microcosm of this community.”

If Mitchell appears to be a walking billboard, her passion is genuine and her enthusiasm is real and palatable, for Sip is most definitely not a bar. It’s a place of community, and as Derrik Kennedy will readily tell any visitor, “This community is our network. Our mission from the start was to be part of this community and to help out whenever necessary.”

Kelley, as the major owner of this primarily woman-owned business, and Derrik opened in November of 2020, right at the height of Covid, but they didn’t concern themselves with that. They were more concerned with bringing great wines, unheard of before wines, and wine education to Old Saybrook and reaching out to every community within the community to welcome them in. “Even if someone wants to come in during the afternoon, sit at the bar, and just have a cup of tea, that’s fi ne. We welcome everyone here.”

A major ingredient in being an active part of the community for the Kennedys was utilizing and partnering with other businesses within the Old Saybrook community. “We use Fromage for our cheese menu, Pursuit of Pastry and Dagmar’s Desserts, Myrcene Ale Company, and

“We have laid the cornerstone, and we are committed to staying solid for our guests and not backing off.”

other businesses who are based here. We consider them community partners, so in that way, we all benefi t by working together.”

Sip Wine Bar is not a true bar nor bar experience. You don’t come here to drown your sorrows until you and your sorrows are both obliterated. You come to gently sip away at them until you forget why you might have been down in the first place. “We like our customers to think of this as another home.”

In addition to wine, other beverages include the aforementioned tea plus beer and a variety of non-alcoholic and soft drinks. A modest food menu features what goes best with wine: an assortment of cheeses, crackers and bread, olives, sardines, and makeyour-own charcuterie boards with dried cured ham, sausage, pate, berries, jams, dried fruits, spreads, and whatever pleases your palate. Derrik or your server can suggest suitable pairings, but ultimately, you’re in charge. This is your time at your place, and there are no rules except to kick back, relax, enjoy, and maybe learn something. There are always classes to sign up for whether you’re merely a novice or a budding sommelier.

You also might like to join the wine club which has a number of options. Once again, nothing snooty here, but you can opt to receive a box of four red wines or white wines or perhaps mix it up then decide if you want it monthly, every three or six months, or maybe a box every month for the entire year. Maybe that’s not for you, but you’re thinking of someone special this holiday season who would appreciate this. Just choose the length and type of subscription you wish to gift and let them decide with Derrik’s guidance what it is that might please their palate. There are also one-time wine boxes as a much-appreciated gift for your host this holiday season or anytime!

The Kennedys are proud of their entire staff. They’re not just employees who pour a glass but interested and engaged people who are actively learning what’s in that glass, where it originated, how it pairs with food, how it marries with individual taste buds. To ensure the experience, Derrik and Kelley are involved in encouraging and paying for the continuing education of their employees through classes offered by WSET (Wine Spirit and Education Trust). Sip servers can enroll in each of four levels from beginner to expert and become certified before moving on. It not only makes them valuable assets at Sip Wine Bar, but customers come back again and again because there is that level of trust. “We have laid the cornerstone,” says Derrik, “and we are committed to staying solid for our guests and not backing off.”

Image Courtesy of Sip Wine Bar

As he did with Lizzie Mitchell, Derrik has that wonderful ability to see something in people. He sees it in everyone who comes into Sip, and they quickly make a connection. The Sip philosophy is embedded into their website: “Our goal at Sip Wine Bar is to create an atmosphere that removes pretension from the wine experience and helps you discover wonderful wines from around the world at your pace.”

Lizzie sums up her personal experience by adding, “I have a passion to get the word out,” and she’s doing a good job letting others know that in just two short years Sip has been elevated to the title of the only pure wine bar in the state and recently won the prestigious award: “Best Wine Bar in Connecticut 2024.” Heady stuff indeed, but NOT stuffy! Matter of fact, there is nothing about the Sip experience that is in any way stuffy or superior in attitude.

Derrik is recognized as a Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers. He is also an Italian Wine Scholar through the Wine Scholars Guild, a WSET (Wine Spirit and Education Trust)Diploma Student, Certified Specialist of Wine, and Certified Sherry Wine Specialist, but please don’t let any of that put you off. Derrik is the most down-to-earth guy you’ll meet in this field, just as happy teaching a class or recommending a wine to

Image Courtesy of Sip Wine Bar

the guy who drank cheap rose´ out of a paper bag in college, then saved the bottle to add a candle, as he is to pleasing an oenophile who is a true connoisseur of the grape.

And Derrik loves to pass his knowledge on! So, Sip offers the most informative and fun classes in town! They highlight specific grapes, varietals, the regions of the world from which they come, and delicious tastings! Kennedy hand-selects the wines for each monthly Wine Club subscription (yes, there are options with plenty of choices and price points), leads private event tastings, recommends holiday gifts, and loves to help arrange gatherings. Whether it’s a few friends having a small gathering after work, girls’ night out, a shower, relatives in from out of town, a fun office party, or whatever you have in mind, Derrik and his staff are right there to make your time at Sip not just “going out for drinks” but thoroughly enjoying an experience.

One wonders if perhaps William Shakespeare was a clairvoyant, prophet, or soothsayer when he penned King Henry VIII and added what might become the mantra for Sip Wine Bar:

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Make your next gath stunning Mashantuck .T Research Center Taak viewsofthecedarfo ering truly magical at th ket Pequot Museum and e in the breathtaking rest surrounding the guests enjoy our spaciou eddings, receptions and oday! id at otmuseum.org. views of the cedar fo Museum while your g venue, perfect for we other events.

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Reserve your date to Contact Shantal Lap facilityrental@pequo

Isabella Stewart Gardener 1840-1924, Founder of the Museum

ecently, I visited the Isabella Gardner Museum, a past haunt of mine in Beantown. As I approached the edifice, a tsunami of memories engulfed my mind. I recalled it fondly and admiringly like an old blankie. What I found was a transformation and rejuvenation, both physically and energetically, that felt triumphant for the 21st century.

Thirty-five years ago, it was a beautiful, unique building in the Fenway area. At that time, the museum appeared forgotten and from a different era. Designed by architect Willard T. Sears to resemble the Palazzo Barbaro in Venice, after one of Isabella’s most cherished vacation spots in Italy. The Garde, as I remember referring to it, is surrounded by scores of universities, including my alma mater, Massachusetts College of Art, on the defunct campus of Boston State.

Lingering recollections of previous visits preface my visit. Escaping the Longwood building at 364 Brookline Ave., now Beth Israel Hospital, and finding solace in this fantastic home museum’s indoor courtyard oasis was a refuge of silence and inspiration. However, the museum seemed to be in a state of decline, missing the vitality and energy that Isabella had intended for her distinctive home.

The celebrated iconoclastic American philanthropist and art collector who founded the museum, Isabella Stewart Gardner, lived from 1840 to 1924. A pioneer women art collector, alongside Peggy Guggenheim and Cooper Hewitt, known for their versions of home museums, Isabella was the first to create a museum that intrigued visitors and friends alike. However, tragedy preempted Isabella’s vision for a museum home. Upon the death of Jackie, her only son, at two years of age, followed closely by a miscarriage and the loss of her sister-in-law and friend, she fell into a deep depression. Under the advice of her physician, Jack Gardner took his wife on a trip to raise her spirits. She was so weak that she was transported to the ship by a mattress from her home.

Do you know those moments in your life that you overlook as they occur but are the junctures that define your life

forever? For Isabella Gardner, this was one such pivotal moment. Her expeditions took her to thirty-eight countries between 1867 and 1906. The voyages, by themselves, are a tremendous feat, given that they were all by ship. Still, these voyages laid the foundation for today’s remarkable museum.

Isabella Stewart and Jack Gardner both came from wealthy families. Isabella hailed nouveau rich from the West Village, New York City, while Jack was from the Boston Brahim. (A member of one of the older New England families) Julia Gardner, Jack’s sister, introduced them in 1858. By 1860, they were married.

Consequently, they would have made a formidable couple in a marriage of love, respect, and prosperity. Isabella and Jack were exceptionally astute art collectors, and their voyages enriched their collection. They resided as a couple at 152 Beacon Hill, where they exhibited their collection in the impressive museum home that conveyed their devotion to art and culture. Isabella

Exterior view of Hostetter Gallery in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

and Jack frequently opened their home to the public on special occasions so guests could view the property and everything it contained, which was uncommon for an affluent couple. They charged .25 cents at the door and donated the proceeds to charities for children. Before Jack’s unexpected death in 1898, the couple terminated plans for developing the Beacon Hill home. Six weeks later, Isabella proceeded with the shared plan to build the museum we now know. Isabella threw herself into the project to stave off what must have been a brutal blow of grief.

In 2012, the museum expanded with a 70,000-square-foot addition designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano. This expansion was a significant event given that Isabella’s will stipulated that her art collection must be exhibited for the benefit and education of the public and stay precisely the way that she assembled it.

In the past, you entered the house through a modest entrance way off the Fenway; you could glimpse the beautiful Venetian replication of the courtyard from the dim hallway—an amuse-bouche of what awaits. Walking along Tetlow Street and rounding the corner onto Evans Way, you see the inner courtyard’s nursery greenhouse filled with plants. Today, you enter through the new Evans Way entrance, a full glass enclosure abundantly lit by natural light—a distinct contrast to the dim old entrance way. The first-floor Lobby provides a coat closet and features a book and gift shop, a cafe with a simple, tasty menu, and a reading room filled with art books to enjoy. Additionally, there is a space designated for educational programs and a glass hallway leading to the mansion.

1903 Vintage Photo Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Fenway Court Boston MA

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum’s always-blooming Courtyard. The plants for the Courtyard are grown in the Museum’s temperature-controlled nursery and trucked to the Palace location.

Courtyard cloister, west walk

As you ascend the stairwell to the second floor, you can view the original building that houses the artwork and furnishings. Calderwood Hall is a surprising gem—a miniature stylish twist on the La Scala Opera House of Milan. The Sunday afternoon musical concerts series, honoring tradition since 1927, continues at the Gardner. The Hostetter Gallery, which currently features a magnificent Manet exhibit, is also on the second floor. Appetite whetted, I am now anxious to reunite with my old friend, the original building.

I pass through the glass corridor and step into the glorious courtyard I remember, its vibrant greens accented by splashes of yellow, purple, and red. The courtyard is as integral to the success of this building, as much as everything it houses. It’s a spectacular, breathtaking enclosure where an imitation of Palazzo Barbaro radiates. Lingering here is unavoidable; the beautiful setting delivers you to another time and prepares you for the rest of the palace’s treasures.

I wander away from the courtyard to some of my most cherished artworks. Off the central courtyard is the Spanish Cloister exhibition space. There, nestled in an alcove framed by the Moorish arches, is the massive, dynamic painting El Jaleo by John Singer Sargent (translated The Ruckus). Seeing this piece again stirs my artist’s heart. It’s worth the price of admission just to experience it. The movement of the dancers, the music you can just about hear, castanets clicking, the musicians with

their expressive passion, and the dramatic interplay of light and shadow. It’s a knockout. Isabella acquired it in a sublime art coup. The owner, T. Jefferson Coolidge, gave it to her on the spot after she exhibited it in this perfect custom-made setting.

Next is the portrait of Tommaso Inghirami, found in the Raphael room. The lost-in-thought expression is unusual for a portrait of the time. I remember smiling the first time I saw it. Some say Raphael painted it this way because of the deacon’s lazy eye. However, I imagined that even pious men make grocery lists for the market.

Calderwood Hall- Music has been an integral part of the Gardner experience.

Mickalene Thomas’ “Sandra, She’s a Beauty”outside the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum on Evans Way.

Main Stairway of the expansion with view glass corridor leading to the original building.

There are dozens more to explore. Among them are The Terrace, Saint-Tropez by Henri Matisse, The Rape of Europa by Titian, The Self Portrait Age 23 by Rembrandt, St. George Slaying the Dragon by Cravelli, and a discovery Saint Michael Archangel by Pedro Garcia de Benabarre. These masterworks, along with thousands more, await an audience.

One of the most compelling articles in the museum is the modest glass cases filled with notes, correspondence, and drawings from statesmen, presidents, actors, painters, writers, artists, friends, and advisors. These items begin to open up and illuminate Isabella as a person. Isabella collected and curated over 7500 paintings, drawings, sculptures, and 7000 artifacts from ancient Rome, Medieval Europe, Renaissance Italy, Asia, the Islamic world, 19th-century France, and America. Additionally, there are approximately 1700 rare books. The place reminds me of Russian dolls; the more you look, the more there is to discover.

Shrouded in mystique, Isabella and the museum developed into a significant enigma following the infamous art heist that stole several priceless artworks worth 500 million. One of the most captivating reasons to visit the museum is to witness the Dutch room—not just because of what is there, which is compelling enough, but also because of what is absent. In 1990, two thieves entered the museum, tied up the two guards, and made away with 13 pieces, including a Vermeer, a Rembrandt, and five Degas. The frames of the stolen artwork hang empty like open wounds in recognition of the brazen theft and hope of their return. Upon seeing this view of the room for the

Above Clockwise: El Jaleo by John Singer Sargent, Painted in 1882. Courtesy of Gardner Museum

Pot metal stained glass depicting scenes from the lives of saints Nicasius and Eutropia about 1205 French, Soissons, Portrait of Tommaso Inghirami by Italian artist Raphael. Painted 1509, it exists in two copies, one

of which is in display in the Palatina Gallery of Palazzo Pitti in Florence and the other in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.

first time, I remember how directly the theft hit me when it happened. The robbery felt like a personal offense. Knowing Bostonians, I am sure it felt like an attack on one of their own. The museum still seeks the return of the artwork, offering a ten-million-dollar reward. The website states, “We are the only buyer for these works, and they belong in their rightful home.” Ironically, the heist brought curious attention to its doors, making it a popular stop for tourists and locals 40 years later.

I don’t know whether the lively, unorthodox, original Isabella or the incredible treasures within this impactful, overflowing museum captivate the past and present American spirit. Since its opening in 1903, the museum has had four directors. All contributed to the museum’s success. Anne Hawley, the fourth and first not to live on the fourth floor of the residence, presided over and directed the expansion. When I read of the expansion, I thought, “Oh, they will ruin its elegant quirkiness.” Later, I read that some board members expressed that Ms. Hawley was trying to create a legacy that superseded the heist. My response: “SO!” The museum is fantastic. The expansion has complemented and continues the original mission that Isabella set out to build. Also, you realize instantly upon entering the newly constructed portion that the house also feels as work of art. It is so flawless that I wonder if Ms. Hawley channeled Isabella’s ghost, who, I’ve heard, roams at night. Brava, Anne Hawley brava!

If you have never visited or haven’t been since the expansion, it is a trip worth taking, especially for Art and Architecture lovers.

The website offers valuable tips and information. https://www.gardnermuseum.org/visit

Above Clockwise: The small scale of the room, combined with gold-colored walls conveys a sense of warmth and intimacy. Unlike many of the grand parlors above. My newest favorite Saint Michael Archangel by Pedro Garcia de Benabarre. In the Dutch room you can view some of the empty frames and consider the enormity of the loss. The painting directly to the right of the empty frame is a beauty, A Doctor Of Law by Francisco De Zurbarán, early 20th century.

THE NEW HAVEN PAINT & CLAY CLUB PRESENTS

...

December 9 - February 28

Reception • Wednesday, December 11 • 5 - 6:30 p.m.

Visit the gallery at the Shoreline Medical Center

The New Haven Paint & Clay Club is the oldest continuously active art society in Connecticut. As it celebrates its 125th anniversary in 2025, the club continues to support the next generation of artists through scholarships and community engagement.

For more information, visit MiddlesexHealth.org/NHPCC

250 Flat Rock Place, Westbrook, CT 06498

860-358-6200 + info@midhosp.org + MiddlesexHealth.org

Richard Stephen, WoodlandPerception,oil (detail)

In t

Local Pottery • E the Gift Shop

Woodworking • So

Silks & Woven Textiles

Custom Mirrors • Turn

Forged Iron • Woolen

arrings/Jewelry • Birdhouses

• Needle Felting • Artistic

ed Bowls • Framed Photo

Goods • Ornaments • Ha

Local Auth aps/Candles • Journals/Ca

hors • Just Cool Stuff! rds Frames graphy ndbags

Gigi Horr Liverant

Robert Noreika

Neumann Lorna

Horrigan Mar Dianne Gorrick

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What is Greg Drinking?

2023 Cerdon du Bugey from Renardat-Fache

Is it just me or does this year feel like it had a few extra months of material packed in? The sheer volume of unbelievable and remarkable events in these last twelve months has really pushed me to my limits. So, it is with a tired but hopeful heart that I reach out to the heavens (and to Allegra and Kelsey at Cove Ledge Wine & Spirits) for a little something to get us to the ﬁnish line - insert the 2023 Cerdon du Bugey from Renardat-Fache.

This gorgeous garnet-colored beverage is a lifeline in these busiest of seasonal stretches. Call it a breakfast Rosé or a late lunch reward, this pét-nat (short for pétillant naturel, meaning a sparkling wine that predates Champagne) is perfect for poinsettia season.

This is the first time I have had a wine that presents itself firmly as having ‘Alpine’ flavor notes. A little research shed light on the fact that the Alpine Mountain region of Europe, as well as the communities that are woven in between, tend to share a common thread with regard to wine-producing red fruit notes that are crisp and clean. The houses in this particular part of France are a direct representation of the soil built with the same limestone that adds minerality to the handpicked and organically farmed harvests each year for the Renardat team. These acres are located in the Bugey, which is a relatively obscure wine region located equidistant from both Lyons and Geneva. This vintage is a blend of the two most dominant varietals found here, Gamay(79%) as well as Poulsard(21%). The Cerdon style of wine that I am now sipping is the banner contribution to the wine world, famous for both the color and scent of fresh roses and effervescence from natural and spontaneous fermentation. The patriarch of the family, Alain, has resisted the retirement resting norms and continues to help his son carry on the seven-generation-long tradition of hand-picking grapes along these rocky hills. Having named my son the Irish name that translates to ‘poet/storyteller,’ I can certainly identify with the hopes and dreams of carrying on a skillset from parent to child!

This style of winemaking, ancient as it is, does also present some unique challenges. For one thing, the lack of additional yeast and subsequent natural pre-and post-bottling fermentation produces a wine that is delicate in the glass and extremely time sensitive. Even with recent adjustments to the production to extend shelf life, it really should be enjoyed within a year of production. This particular example is usually disgorged (bottled after sediment is removed) in late December, so what better way to wrap up your year than to pop the cork before the ball drops? The bright cherry and plum ﬂavors are neatly delivered with delicate bubbles rising from the bottom of your glass, ﬂeeting as the year behind us seems to be. As an appetizer offering or a dessert option, this is a wine with all the right stuff. Clocking in at around 8% ABV most years, it will not rock the boat, or your senses should you choose to imbibe before all the presents have been unwrapped.

As you read this, I can only hope that this is a time of year that delivers some much-needed joy to your life. Sure, it can be a blur of holiday parties and family gatherings, but as surely as you might be running around like crazy now it is just as certain that the next few months will feel painfully slow in comparison. So take the time to appreciate the faces and places you are being drawn to and know that each of these moments is a real gift and not guaranteed in perpetuity. I look at my son (who just turned one) standing and trying to walk to his big sister (who will turn four in the spring, acting all but a decade older than she is), and marvel at the alarming rate of their growth. I want these moments to last forever even when the season’s stress is at its peak. So, I take it in and smile at the blessings I have been graced with and hope you can toast to the same. We all deserve cheerful cheers this time of year.

Gregory Post is a manager at Saltwater Farm Vineyard, afﬁliated with Kingdom of the Hawk Vineyard.

By Susan Cornell Photographs by Susan and Bob Cornell

y husband and I have a thing for islands. I don’t know why. Over the past decade, we’ve been to over 30 islands, from as far away as French Polynesia to our favorite, Block Island. We’ve volunteered as Island Keepers in the Thimbles and stewarded two islands for our local land trust. So, when we found an expedition trip to Iceland, the largest island in the world, not a continent, Greenland, we booked.

Iceland has been a super-hot travel destination for years, while no one vacations in Greenland. We wanted to see all the buzz about Iceland (including volcanic activity and earthquakes) while being curious to see the remarkable landscapes and raw nature on an island with the lowest population density in the world, Gronland or Kalaallit Nunaat.

Our primary means of transport was the Atlas Ocean Voyages expedition ship World Navigator. Atlas launched the ship in late 2021, which can hold 196 passengers. The line continued with World Traveler, which debuted in 2022, and World Voyager in 2023. All ships in the fleet have almost a 1-to-1 staff-to-guest ratio.

The World Navigator is flat-out gorgeous and spotless, and the service and cuisine were incredible. While they are built as expedition vessels, they all look more like billionaire yachts.

Of the 163 guests on board our 11-night cruise, 144 were from the US, 13 from Canada, and the rest from Australia, France, and Poland. Eighty-eight percent were age 55 and better, an older crowd compared with other Atlas voyages. Antarctica, for example, tends to draw younger passengers, while this expedition, because of the cultural immersion aspect, appeals to a slightly different demographic.

What set the experience apart from other cruises was the 14 Expedition Guides, comprised of naturalists, biologists, adventure tourism experts, a polar law professor, climate change and polar region experts, conservationists, photographers, a historian, and a shooting instructor (handy, as guides carried rifles in case of polar bears). Guides came from all over the world, from China to Patagonia and everywhere in between. Expedition guides weren’t just lecturers; they were our Zodiac drivers, bringing us up close to icebergs and glaciers (but not too close due to safety) and spotting elusive wildlife. On Sea Days, guides educated and entertained us.

But before the expedition started, the journey started. We flew direct to Reykjavik, Iceland, landing at around 5 am. Since we had 10 hours to kill before hotel check-in time, we headed straight to one of the 25 wonders of the world: the Blue Lagoon, a unique geothermal seawater spa.

Tourist attractions (such as the Blue Lagoon) and cities (such as Reykjavik) normally aren’t my thing, but “when in Rome”! And, when your toes are the first in the steamy, hot water since it’s 7 am, it feels pretty nice after a red-eye flight. Further, we could see the new road construction and berms created due to the eruptions over the past few months. While we didn’t see the volcano erupt while we were relaxing with mud

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The Cheesemonger

Deana Simmons, The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook

The Holiday Season: Traditions and Celebrations (of cheese) Across the Globe

By Deana Simmons The Cheese Shop of Centerbrook

“The holidays”for many it holds a deep personal meaning, and what it represents often depends on individual experiences. For me, the holidays are the warmth of family gatherings, the comfort of long-held traditions, the excitement of making new memories, and of course the food.

For some (myself included, The Feast of Seven Fishes followed by cookies, fruit and cheese) holiday meals are often tied to family traditions, passed down through generations. Whether it’s a speciﬁc dish, like a hearty stew, bake goods or cheese, these meals evoke feelings of warmth and comfort.

This got me thinking. How does cheese play a role in holiday celebrations around the world? So, grab a fork (and a cracker or two) and let’s explore the cheesy side of the holiday celebrations.

Italy: La Vigilia “Feast of the Seven Fishes. Italy is famous for this Christmas Eve tradition but it’s the Burrata, that creamy fresh cheese from Puglia that gets a standing ovation on the dinner table. It’s often served alongside fruits like ﬁgs or tomatoes and enjoyed before the meal. Ricotta also takes center stage in the form of the sweet center of an Italian favorite – Cannoli. For Christmas Day, cheese takes a more prominent roll. Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano are served alongside cured meats like Prosciutto di Parma and Salami.

Spain – Tabla de Quesos or Cheese Platters. A staple on the Spanish Christmas table, this generous cheese platter showcases a variety of Spain’s ﬁnest cheeses. These platters are often served as part of the meal or an appetizer and include Spain’s most famous cheese, Manchego. Along with Paparras – a pickled pepper from the Basque region with Serrano Ham.

England – After a dinner of roasted turkey and Yorkshire pudding – it’s a tradition to sit in front a cozy ﬁre and enjoy a glass of port with a chunk of Stilton. Port and Stilton are considered a quintessential British holiday tradition. However, there are other regional favorites such as Wensleydale served with cranberries (like Stilton with cranberries) and let’s not forget cheddar – which ﬁnds its way on every holiday table. On Boxing Day, Dec. 26th, Cheese toasties or grilled cheeses are made with the leftovers.

The Netherlands - Cheese holds an important role in holiday celebrations across the Netherlands. Not only does it ﬁnd its way into holiday meals it’s often used for gifting. One of the county’s most famous cheese, Gouda, named for the town in which it’s made is cherished for its rich ﬂavor and versatility. To celebrate the beginning of the holiday season the city of Gouda hosts Gouda by Candlelight. At sundown all the electric light are turned off and the city is illuminated by over 1500 candles. It’s said that Gouda (the cheese) is also savored by candlelight, with spiced bread and mulled wine.

France - The French are always serious about their cheese. So, it’s no surprise that cheese plays a starring role at the holiday table. The French Plateau de Fromages, or cheese platter is served after the main course and before dessert. It’s an elaborate display of different cheeses that include a mix of textures, milk types and ﬂavors. At the holidays the platter may include, Camembert, a classic soft cheese from Normandy. Roquefort, a pungent blue from the south of France made from Sheep’s milk. And a Comté, a ﬁrm, nutty cheese from the Jura region. The cheese course signals a time to relax and savor the moment of the holiday season and it’s most always enjoyed with champagne.

Switzerland – Switzerland has so many ways of celebrating with cheese for the holidays it was difﬁcult to pick just one. For example, in the Apls regions where cheese production is a way of life, it’s often celebrated with cheese festivals which coincide with holiday celebrations.

But it’s cheese Fondue that’s perhaps the most recognizable. Half Gruyére, half Emmental – maybe a scooch of Appenzeller melted in a pot with white wine, garlic and a hint of Kirch, a cherry ﬂavored brandy. Although Fondue is a year-round dish it’s very popular at Christmas and New Year’s Eve celebrations.

Raclette is another popular Swiss dish associated with the holidays. Raclette, a smooth, rich and creamy cow’s milk cheese is melted and scraped over vegetables, potatoes and bread. It’s widely enjoyed during Christmas and New Year’s Eve. In some regions they even have Raclette Holiday Festivals.

Happy Holidays!

Photo by Elizabeth S. Mitchell

Love Letters to the Shoreline

by Elizabeth S. Mitchell

Brown Eyed Girl in Essex Village

The heart of Essex Village in the early evening, with its just-darkening Main Street lit by old-fashioned lamp posts and colonial-style sconces on the fronts of the well-preserved homes, makes one feel they are stepping into another world. Lined with homemade scarecrows in October, with countless twinkling lights in December, and with overflowing window boxes in the warmer months, the street seems to evoke the perfect mood for every New England season.

The first time my feet ever touched this magical street was in the late Spring of 2019, and upon stepping out of my friend’s car, I saw what appeared to be a true colonial New England village untouched by time; the history lover in me felt transported. We followed the sidewalk down to the river, where the moon was rising, casting a glinting path across the water that one could almost believe they might be able to follow directly into the sky.

On the slow walk back up the street, I thought I heard music, though it was far enough away that I could not quite place what song it was. As we drew closer to the Griswold Inn, a familiar tune made itself known to me -“Brown Eyed Girl” by Van Morrison. But it was not Van Morrison singing. As the warmly-lit windows of the inn came sharply into focus, I realized the song was being played live inside, so inside we went.

In the lobby of the inn, the warm light, colonial decor, and boisterous atmosphere were encircling and enchanting. Friendly faces greeted us and ushered us into the tap room to see the band, called The Psychedelic 60’s Band. The 1776 bar room was full of people dancing amongst countless old shipping posters and maritime artifacts; above the band, a stuffed parrot was keeping watch of the scene from its perch; the dark wood antique bar was lit by lanterns, throwing wa-rm light onto what appeared to be the original ceiling; and a Christmas tree I later learned stays up all year with rotating ornaments based on the season shone brightly in the middle of it all. One could just feel centuries of music and merriment. With the song that had lured me inside still playing, I felt my eyes unexpectedly well up with joyful tears, and I could see that my friend already knew why. “Brown Eyed Girl” was my and my mother’s song - both of us brown-eyed girls - and just days before this trip I had learned that she was going to be entering a fight against cancer. I knew she would dance, there amongst all these strangers, if she had been there with me, and so, for the rest of the evening, that’s what I did.

After moving to the area, Main Street in Essex Village became a regular staple in my routine, sometimes in the morning for a tea or hot chocolate at Essex Coffee, and sometimes in the evening to enjoy the live music and New England fare at The Gris. On New Year’s Eve 2019, before Covid shut the world down in a way none of us could have imagined, I spent the night dancing to the same Psychedelic 60’s Band amongst a sea of friendly strangers. Then, Covid happened.

After what seemed like an eternity, the world began to open back up, and The Griswold Inn announced that the Psychedelic 60’s Band would be returning to the tap room for the first time in many, many months. I went, mask on, and sat myself at a little table, alone. As soon as the first few notes of “Brown eyed Girl” were played, I began to cry relieved, joyful tears - for being amongst other humans again, sharing the common experience of the music, of the place, of the history, of that merriment, and of all the weight of what had happened. And of course, for my mother, who we shortly thereafter lost.

Years later, every time my father visits, Essex Village is the first place he wants to go; my fiancé and I make a point of strolling down Main Street to welcome every season - to witness the sea of hopeful yellow during the Springtime Daffodil Days, to watch the children parade in costume during Halloween, to soak up the holiday magic in the winter. No season feels like it has truly arrived fully until we go and experience it there, in Essex Village, with all its magic and charm. And of course, with its music.

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INDIGO GIRLS

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