Food Thoughts from Italy - PASTA FRESCA

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PASTA FReSCA

Written and Photos by Bob Zemmel, Owner of Alforno Trattoria

Pasta fresca is served cooked all the way through and typically is made into shapes such as tagliatelle, long strands about 3/8 of an inch wide, and pappardelle, which are long strands ¾ of an inch to an inch wide. Pasta fresca is used for lasagna sheets, ravioli and all sorts of filled pastas.

Fresh pasta made with local eggs, non-industrially produced eggs, which have a deeper orange-yellow yolk, yields a better tasting and better looking pasta. The ratio of egg to flour is always roughly one large egg to one cup of flour. If needed, an egg yolk or two can be added to soften the dough and add extra flavor.

The traditional method is to make a well of flour with an egg dropped into the center. We then gather the flour into the egg until all the flour has been incorporated. hen we knead until we get a slightly elastic dough ball. Alternately, we can use a food processor to mix and knead the dough.

The dough can be rolled out by hand or fed through a pasta machine. An inexpensive Italian pasta machine (about $30-60. the Mercato Italian made machines are he reference standard for home use.) will come in handy to roll out the dough to the preferred thickness.

Fresh pasta is typically combined with hearty meat sauces as well as butter and cream sauces. The latter sauces allow the pasta to shine as the centerpiece of the dish. We often add seasonal ingredients to garnish the creamy sauce for color and different flavors.

As we head into spring, asparagus, peas and wild mushrooms make terrific additions to a fresh pasta dish.

To make TagliatelleFor the pasta:

2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour 2 large eggs with 1 egg yolk reserved Pinch of salt

Handmade method:

Make a well of flour with a hollow in the center. Put the eggs in the center of the well and break the yolks with a fork. Gather in the flour, beginning with the center of the well, and mix continuously until all of the flour is incorporated into the eggs and a ball of dough is formed. If the dough ball doesn’t form, add the reserved egg yolk. Knead the dough vigorously for 5 minutes or so until the dough is elastic and smooth. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for about 1 hour. After the rest the dough ball should allow you to push your finger into the dough with little resistance. Lightly flour a clean work surface and rolling pin. Roll out the dough in all directions until the pasta sheet is almost translucent.

Food processor and pasta machine method:

Add flour and salt to the bowl of the food processor. Pulse a few times. With the machine running, drop in the eggs through the feed tube. Initially, crumbs of dough will form followed by the dough ball.

Process the dough for 45 seconds to mimic hand kneading. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest at room temperature for about 1 hour. Cut the dough into three pieces. Starting with the widest setting on the pasta machine, run one portion of the dough through the rollers. Repeat this step, adjusting the settings from widest to thinnest, using the numbered guide on the side of the machine. Repast with the remaining dough pieces.

To cut the pasta dough into noodles by hand, lightly flour or sprinkle semolina or cornmeal onto the pasta sheet and roll up like a jelly roll. With a sharp knife, cut across the jelly roll every 3/8 of an inch wide. Unroll the strips of tagliatelle, sprinkle with cornmeal and gather into a loose mound. The pasta can be frozen or used immediately.

Tagliatelle with AsparagusIngredients:

12 ounces tagliatelle 2 ounces butter ½ cup heavy cream, optional 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 8 ounces asparagus spears, cut into 2-inch pieces

Bring 4 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt to the water. Blanch the asparagus pieces for one two minutes, depending on thickness. Remove with a strainer or slotted spoon into a cold water bath. Put the tagliatelle into the same boiling water, stir to separate the noodles and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Test for doneness by biting into a piece. There should be little resistance to the tooth. Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of the cooking water.

In a 12-inch skillet, melt the butter. Add the pasta, cheese and asparagus. Toss until well mixed and the cheese coats the pasta. If the sauce is a little dry, stir in a couple of tablespoons or so of the cooking water or, if desired, the heavy cream. Stir until all ingredients are incorporated. Divide into two large portions or four appetizer portions.

enjoy

Alforno Trattoria • Bar • Pizza 1654 Boston Post Road, old Saybrook, CT 860-399-4166 | www.Alforno.net