Lush Guide '12

TABLE OF CONTENTS 12 14 16 18

I Will Take A Manhattan Surviving Mardi Gras Madness Name That Bar Have Food - Need “Proof”

The IN staff in general are bar people. We've been known to close the of fice at 4 p.m. on Fridays to get a jump start on happy hour. Some of our most productive staf f meetings have involved a pitcher (and a few shots of 'Cuse Juice) at New York Nick 's. We even regularly make of fice bets where booze is the prize to be had (speaking of which, Joani, you still owe Rick a beer for the Republican Primar y).

As a nod to our bar loving side, we created our annual Lush Guide. It's one of our favorite issues to brainstorm and write ever y year and this year, it's extra special because the gods of timing smiled us and let it fall on the same week as the booziest holiday of them all—Mardi Gras.

In honor of that coincidence, we're giving you some tips on sur viving a marathon drinking day. You can thank us Sunday when you actually make it through the epic beach parade festivities. Plus, we've got words of wisdom straight from the mouths of your favorite local bartenders, a foodie's guide to cooking with booze and a quiz to test your knowledge of the local bar scene.

So read up and get ready for Mardi Gras weekend. Just remember—if you’re going to be drinking (and we know you are) do it at local establishments and be safe, okay?

illustration by Samantha Crooke

CHEERS!

February 16, 2012

11

I WILL TAKE A

MANHATTAN

by Kate Peterson Michelle Knox / photo by Samantha Crooke

You think you will, but what else is out there to choose from? What you drink, when you go to dinner or an event, is always a personal subject. It’s a status choice. A glass of wine or a beer, a martini or a Cosmopolitan, carries a certain image you want to portray to others. Choose wisely because it is the only choice in life that you say aloud, sometimes shout, for everyone to hear.

Those who regularly partake in alcoholic beverages have something that they love and always order, maybe a favorite beer or liquor. If you are unfamiliar with the wares behind the bar, you might want to get some advice from an expert. IN decided to

seek the wisdom of some knowledgeable resident bartenders, and get their opinions about drink trends in 2012.

Three local area bartenders were asked the same three questions: What are the trends in alcohol choices this year? What will we all be drinking this year? And, what drink do you wish you would never have to make again?

First, we spoke to Michelle Knox, 29, bartender at The Fish House. She is a Pensacola native who, after spending some time traveling the world and living in New Jersey, decided to move back home.

Knox has been tending bar for about six

“I am always on the lookout for creative cocktail creations Michelle Knox, Bartender at The Fish House years. At first blush, she may appear to be very young and could not possibly possess an extensive knowledge of libation trends– that judgment is so very wrong.

E r i c D. Ste v e n s on

“It is the era of forgotten drinks, the World War I Sidecar, 1870s Manhattan, the 1806 Old Fashioned and the Pre-Civil War choice, Sazerac [a classic New Orleans drink],” Knox said about the current drink trends. “They are your grandparents’ cocktails.”

“Simple ingredients are key,” she added. “ The elegance of using simple ingredients can become complex and deep. Cucumber and mint are some of those ingredients.”

According to Knox, alcohol choices are throwbacks to a forgotten time as well.

There has been an increased popularity of rose and cucumber infused gin.

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resurgence of pinot noir, a warmer climate invites the attraction to both.”

McConkey wishes to never make a wine spritzer again, so don’t ask.

Bartender Brian Duncan, 34 , works at Hopjacks.

While Hopjacks is primarily a much sought-after beer establishment, we found out they know more than just beer. Duncan has been at Hopjacks for about four years and a bartender for 10.

For Duncan, the trending drink is also the last thing he wants to make.

“The trend is flavored vodkas, the newest is Fruit Loops,” Duncan explained.

“As for what we will all be drinking, a Razzle Dazzle. It has hush-hush ingredients, some muddledfruit and alcohol.

What drink do I wish I would never have to make again? That would be a Razzle Dazzle.” {in}

““There is a popularization of dessert or sparkling wines like Moscato and Prosecco, from a strange source, rap lyrics have introduced it to a wider audience.”

Rob McConkey, Sommelier for The Wine Bar on Palafox

The newest trend, called a molecular mixology, is something she studied and saw up close while spending a summer in Spain.

“Molecular mixology is really timeconsuming to make all the parts,” Knox said. “It takes a lot of prep work and space. You make the bar your kitchen. The flavors are developed hour by hour, to create an edible cocktail. It is both amazing and delicious.”

Another trend Knox noted was organic spirits. They are very popular and tasty.

IN tried a special drink Knox prepares with Hendrick’s Gin. She uses gin, St. Germain elderflower liquor and sparkling water.

It was a cool, refreshing cocktail and certainly something you spend time drinking.

The other Knox special is a variation of a Kiss in the Dark. Her version is called a Kiss in the Moonlight. She starts with a chilled martini glass, gives it a dry vermouth rinse and then adds Bombay Gin and blood orange liquor. It was potent and warming—the kind of drink where you know you’ve had a drink.

Knox hopes to make “anything with Blue Curacao in it” in the future.

“I am always on the lookout for creative cocktail creations and currently I have been watching the Ken Burns documentary series ‘Prohibition,’ using names of figures and key words to name new drinks,” Knox said. “It is a great series for all barkeeps to learn from.”

Next up we have Rob McConkey, 41, sommelier for The Wine Bar on Palafox.

McConkey was instrumental in opening the location about a year ago, and still serves as leader behind the bar.

McConkey notices that dessert wines have begun to trend.

“There is a popularization of dessert or sparkling wines like Moscato and Prosecco, from a strange source, rap lyrics have introduced it to a wider audience,” McConkey said.

“Dessert wines used to be something wine lovers turned their nose up to, but now it is more socially acceptable,” McConkey said. “The wine we will all be drinking is Riesling and there has been a

“The trend is flavored vodkas, the newest is Fruit Loops."

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February 16, 2012

13

Surviving Mardi Gras

MADNESS

by James Hagan

March may be known for the “madness” of the NCAA basketball tournament, but for residents of the Gulf Coast the real madness starts in February with Mardi Gras.

While Mobile claims to have invented it, and New Orleans claims to have perfected it, Pensacola’s own version of Mardi Gras definitely brings the ruckus to downtown and the beach. Mardi Gras is about more than catching beads, though. It’s about celebrating the indomitable spirit of the Gulf Coast with a massive amount of day drinking.

With the myriad of events and parades, it’s easy to get overwhelmed and worn down by the festivities. For the intrepid partier who wants to do Mardi Gras the way it’s meant to be done, there are several key ways to 414 1

keep celebrating from morning until the break of dawn.

Drinking during Mardi Gras is like an Olympic sport. People need to prepare for it well in advance, and know the limits of their abilities. Oftentimes people who aren’t heavy drinkers treat Mardi Gras like they’re celebrating “Stones Saturday” with Mick and the boys. They try to impress their friends by slamming as many beers and shots as fast as possible. Surviving Mardi Gras is not a sprint—it’s a very drunken marathon. No one is impressed by a person who leaves the bar at 5 p.m. to go take a nap in their car. For this reason, you need to treat drinking for Mardi Gras like any other competition. This will require preparation.

“How do you get to Carnie Hall?” asks Austin Enfinger, while drinking at the downtown Hopjacks. “You have to practice. Start drinking when you wake up and don’t stop until you pass out. You have to condition your liver for the abuse.”

Doing shots of liquor is an important part of any good Mardi Gras celebration. The

mistake people make is doing them at the end of the night after drinking all day. This will result in nothing but catastrophe.

"Start drinking when you wake up and don’t stop until you pass out. You have to condition your liver for the abuse.”

Austin Enfinger A proper Mardi Gras party means starting off by doing shots with a proper toast. Don’t be a hero, though. It’s okay to do a mixed shot, like a Red Snapper or a Lemon Drop. For those made of sterner stuff, however, nothing gets a day started like a straight shot of Jamison whiskey. Word of warning: while it’s tempting to spread the cheer around, do not buy a round of shots for strangers. They probably won’t remember it or you later, and

your wallet won’t thank you in the morning. However, if the person is attractive or seems interested in you then that rule can and should be ignored.

Needless to say, drinking for 12 or more hours can be expensive. It’s important to find cheap drink specials early so you’ll have enough money later when your judgment is impaired and an expensive import beer seems like a good idea. If you’re planning on attending the parades, be sure to go out a few hours early and hit up happy hour deals.

It’s also beneficial to find a dive bar and drink some cheap PBRs before you head up to Seville and try to impress people by drinking pricier Heinekens.

Eating properly is also important.

While it’s easy during Mardi Gras to roll out of bed, pop open a Budweiser and head out for the parade, beer does not count as a proper meal. You need to fortify the stomach for the battle ahead. Hit up a local restaurant, order something greasy and filling, chug a big class of water and start the day off with a full stomach and a fortified liver. Be sure your phone is charged, too.

There are a lot of people at the parades—you don’t want to spend hours drunkenly staggering around the beach because you can’t find your friends or your car. inweekly.net

Act smooth and handle your liquor like Ryan Gosling in “Crazy Stupid Love.” Don’t be a sad, angry lush like Nicholas Cage in “Leaving Las Vegas.”

“Chug water like it’s your favorite Mardi Gras drink,” suggests Whitney Dalton while tending bar at the downtown Hopjacks.

“Also, stick with the buddy system so you don’t lose yourself.”

Mardi Gras is supposed to be fun. For this reason, go out and have a good time, but be responsible and don’t ruin anyone else’s good time. Don’t pick a fight or an argument, don’t be rude, and if you’re too

drunk to drive (and because it’s Mardi Gras you probably will be), have a designated driver or call a cab. Act smooth and handle your liquor like Ryan Gosling in “Crazy Stupid Love.”

Don’t be a sad, angry lush like Nicholas Cage in “Leaving Las Vegas.” Be Baby Goose, and not Ghost Rider.

Finally, to properly enjoy Mardi Gras you just need to relax and have fun. The parades can oftentimes be campy, and you’re going to spend hours calling for beads from people dressed in ridiculous outfits, but that’s the fun of it. Mardi Gras is an indelible Southern tradition that separates the South from our stuffier Northern brethren. Grab some beads, have a nice stiff drink and have a good time at the parades. See you there. {in}

“Chug water like it’s your favorite Mardi Gras drink.”

Whitney Dalton, Hopjacks Bartender

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Every bar has regulars. Some more colorful than others, but regulars all the same.

In doing our "research" for this issue, we also noticed that we kept hearing conversation regulars at certain bars too. Again, some more colorful than others. We decided to compile our favorite overheard quotes into a little quiz so you can try and name the local bar we overheard them in. So take your best shot. And remember, nobody likes a cheater so don't skip down and read answers right away.

Holy s**t, this drink is strong!

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February 16, 2012

Is it just me or does it smell like tofu and PBR in here?

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You want to hang out downstairs with the pole or upstairs with Timberhawk?

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HAVE FOOD-

NEED “PROOF”

by Ashley Hardaway

The holidays are over.

New Year’s has come and gone and, by now, most likely so have your resolutions. But some things still linger around—sometimes for years, like that bottle of amaretto you never remember buying, but has remained in the back of your liqueur cabinet (i.e. shelf) for as long as you can remember. There’s also some Baileys you got during your hot chocolate phase, a dusty brandy bottle your aunt brought last Christmas and something resembling beer.

At times like these it’s best to think of your liqueur cabinet as an extension of your spice rack. Most alcohol is distilled from organics and botanicals anyway, so they’re already like spices and each can impart its own unique qualities into the right type of food. Need (pardon the pun) proof? Then read ahead.

Breakfast:

Amaretto French Toast with Brandy Butter A friend of mine bought a bottle of amaretto a while ago to make her famous amaretto cheesecake. One year and four cheesecakes later the bottle is still more than three-fourths of the way full. And since amaretto sours don’t really do it for us, we’re adding it to our brunch rotation.

Amaretto French Toast

Ingredients: 6 tablespoons amaretto 4 eggs, well beaten

by Ashley Hardaway

Directions: Brown duck in oil; remove from pan. Add onions, carrots, celery and apricots; stir until slightly caramelized. Add beer, duck stock and fresh thyme. Bring to a simmer; add duck.

Cover pan and braise in oven at 300° until duck is fall-off-the-bone tender. The best way to tell when it’s done is to look for the meat and connective tissue to pull away from the bottom of the leg bone. Remove from heat; transfer duck and braising liquid to a plastic container to begin cooling in the refrigerator.

Make sure to cool the duck in the braising liquid as this will keep the duck nice and moist.

Once cooled, remove duck from braising liquid and pull the meat off of the bones. Strain the liquid and freeze for later. Waste nothing!

1/2 cup milk 12 slices of cinnamon raisin or challah bread 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon Butter (for cooking)

Directions: Heat up non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. In a bowl, mix all ingredients except bread. Melt some butter in the skillet. Take one piece of bread and dip it in the egg mixture until soaked through. Cook in the buttered skillet until golden on both sides.

Serve with maple syrup and brandy butter.

Olive Salad

Duck

Abita Turbodog Braised

Ingredients: 1 tablespoon olive oil 5 duck leg-thigh quarters 1 1/2 yellow onions, chopped 1 medium carrot, chopped 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 8 ounces of dried apricots 2 quarts Abita Turbodog 1 quart duck stock

Brandy Butter

Ingredients: 12 tablespoons, unsalted butter, room temperature 3/4 cup sugar 4 tablespoons brandy Directions: Beat butter and sugar together with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add brandy and blend until combined. Serve at room temperature.

Lunch:

Abita Turbodog Braised Duck “Muffaletta” with Olive Salad & Walnut Aioli Courtesy of Chef Chris Voorhees (Blue Wahoos) It being right before Mardi Gras and shortly af ter the Super Bowl, undoubtedly you should be able to locate a beer somewhere on your premises. And if all this talk of Mardi Gras is making your stomach grumble for some classic Crescent City food, then Pensacola Blue Wahoos’ Chef Chris Voorhees has got you covered.

Ingredients: ¼ cup pitted green olives ¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives ¼ cup pickled vegetables (cauliflower, carrots, celery and red peppers) 2 large pepperoncini 2 tablespoon capers 1 small clove garlic 1 teaspoon fresh oregano 2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoon olive oil A few grinds of black pepper Kosher salt to taste Directions: Drain all wet ingredients. Place all ingredients except olive oil in the food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped.

Add olive oil, cover and refrigerate at least 24 hours for the best results.

Walnut Aioli

◀ Pensacolians will probably recognize Chef Voorhees' name for the positive accolades he received while he was the Executive Chef at Elise Coastal Dining.

After graduating from the Scottsdale Culinary Institute, he worked in Seattle, Los Angeles and St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, before moving to Pensacola with his wife and young son.

Soon, Pensacolians will be able to enjoy his culinary gems again; as the Blue Wahoos stadium plans to have on-site and off-site catering abilities as well as special event packages and some pretty spectacular venues that will be available year-round. For more information regarding hosting stadium events contact Shelley Yates at 934-8444

Ingredients: ½ cup toasted walnut halves 1 small clove garlic 2 egg yolks 1 teaspoon fresh squeezed lemon juice 1 teaspoon cider vinegar 1 cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup walnut oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper Directions: In a food processor add the walnuts, garlic, egg yolks, lemon juice and cider vinegar. Combine the olive oil and walnut oil and mix well. With the processor running and all ingredients well combined slowly drizzle in the oil until the mixture emulsifies and resembles a slightly loose mayo. Right before you turn off the processor, add the salt and pepper to incorporate. Transfer to a container, cover and refrigerate.

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February 16, 2012

To assemble the muffaletta, first find some nice muffaletta bread from your local bakery. Slice the bread and spread the walnut aioli over the top and bottom halves as desired. Generously arrange the pulled braised duck meat, followed by the olive salad. Slice and enjoy with a cold Abita Turbodog. Sharing is optional.

Dessert:

Chocolate Shiraz Cupcakes with Espresso Buttercream Icing Courtesy of Chef Kurtis Krum (The Wine Bar, Boardwalk location) Finally, don’t just assume that red wine in your cabinet can only be used for savory sauces and deglazing. The following cupcakes are a rich, decadent mélange of espresso and chocolate accented with Shiraz. The final result is so good, you’ll never go without wine in your cabinet again.

Chocolate Shiraz Cupcakes with Espresso Buttercream Icing Cupcakes: Ingredients: 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 1/2 cup melted dark chocolate 1 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 pound butter 1 1/2 cup sugar 2 eggs Pinch of cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/4 cup Shiraz Directions: With an electric mixer, paddle the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.

In a separate bowl, add the flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Add this to the butter and sugar mixture while continuing to blend. Add the wine and the vanilla extract. Finish by mixing in the melted chocolate. Bake at 350 degrees, until firm (about 25 minutes).

Espresso Buttercream Icing Ingredients: 1 cup unsalted butter (room temperature) 2 1/2 cups of powdered sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons of vanilla extract 1 ounce of espresso (cooled) Directions: Using the whisk attachment of a stand mixer, whip the butter on medium-high speed for five minutes, stopping once to scrape the sides of the bowl. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the powdered sugar a little at a time, waiting until it is incorporated before adding more. Once all the sugar has been added, scrape the sides of the bowl and increase the speed. Whip until fluf f y (about one minute). Add the espresso and vanilla mixture and continue to mix at medium-high until it is completely incorporated. {in}

food news & events All Hail the King

Jan. 6 is the beginning of King Cake season and, thus, the end of New Year’s diets for many. Sadly, this magical time will soon be coming to an end, but there’s still time to begin your King Cake tasting tour this weekend. Pick your favorite and be sure to let us know whose you liked the best!

The following places are the independent businesses that have King Cakes:

Adonna’s Bakery

114 S. Palafox 696-2227 Adonna’s offers made-to-order King Cakes (call ahead to reserve). They also have many Mardi-Gras themed pastries available all day.

Cupcake Emporium

4350 Bayou Blvd., #3 332-6371 Call ahead to reserve one of their house-made King Cakes and while you’re picking it up be sure to check out their “Mardi Gras Beads”—massive cake truffles (try the red velvet) that have been iced and rolled in edible glitter. The result: a dessert so shiny and tasty you’ll wish you could wear them.

Five Flags Deli & Bakery

1124 W. Garden St. 607-7791 With the most assortments of flavors available, the house-made brioche King Cakes at Five Flags can keep you busy all week. Call ahead to reserve or see what they have on hand when you arrive. Flavors: Traditional, apricot cream cheese, chocolate on chocolate, traditional with chocolate, coconut and pecan.

J’s Bakery

2014 N. 12th Ave. 432-4180 J’s Bakery offers traditional and cream cheese. They’ll reserve you one if you call ahead, or you can drop in and hope they haven’t sold out.

Jerry’s Cajun Café

6205 N. 9th Ave. 484-6962 Jerry’s is getting their King Cakes from the famous Gambino’s bakery out of New Orleans. Try all four flavors: Traditional, Cream Cheese, Blueberry and Chocolate Brownie.

Dolce

221 E. Zaragoza St. 469-9600 If it’s possible you’re all caked-out at this point, then break with tradition and celebrate Fat Tuesday with Dolce’s amazing King Cake gelato. This ingenious concoction is made with a cream cheese flavored base in which King Cake pieces are folded in. It’s finished with ribbons of cinnamon and topped with the traditional Mardi Gras colored sprinkles. Sacrilege never tasted so good.