Pastry Magazine n 19 English by Input SRL

english

n. 19

rends

Dessert and cocktails

for dinner

t No self-respecting meal can end without a good dessert. It’s always a winning formula, but a spontaneous question follows: who said that dessert has to be the last eaten? What if it were the meal itself? Why not have it for dinner, with a herbal or fresh fruit cocktail? This is what is happening in the USA where Dessert Bars are offering the dessert + cocktail formula. As confirmed by the research company Technomic, in the collective imagination, dessert is becoming less of an after-meal treat and is extending into the evening. One example? The Dessert Bar at Chef Rory Macdonald’s Patisserie Chanson in New York. In a former Prohibition-era casino, desserts that re-interpret traditional pastries are served alongside creative cocktails. A new tendency that is spreading also in Italy Alex Servida in Milan offers high quality pastries in his new restaurant in Viale Piave. Open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., with the aim of covering every moment of the day: from breakfast to lunch, snacks and aperitifs, with sweet and savoury pastries accompanied by bubbles and cocktails. A winning combination, then, of desserts and cocktails, but as with any formula, the key is the right dosing and a series of other little tricks.

First, the size rule, also known as “one bite/ one sip “: the cocktail that is to accompany a dish must be calibrated to its size so as not to weigh the customer down and to maintain a correct rhythm between the number of bites and the number of sips. In practical terms, an amuse-bouche should be accompanied by a shot-sized drink. Another rule is for the temperature: drink and dish must have a balanced temperature to avoid contrasts, for example, between a hot dessert and a too cold drink and to this end the timing of the dishes and cocktails must also be in sync to avoid a hot dish cooling down while waiting for the glass to accompany it and, vice versa, the drink becoming watery while waiting for the food. Then, there is the alcohol content aspect. If you imagine a tasting of four or five courses accompanied by as many cocktails, it is important to moderate the alcohol level so that the guest can enjoy the whole experience. In such cases, it is best to serve cocktails with an alcohol content ranging from 6 to 8 degrees during the meal. Finally, an element to be taken into consideration is sugar, an ingredient that must be dosed in the right way so as not to make it too heavy, on the one hand, and on the other to avoid unbalancing the combination with savoury pastries. It is therefore better to keep the quantity low and use the sweet part naturally present in the ingredients of the cocktail without adding sugar.

rends

l’ ngredient

Making the perfect Panettone? Infundo Vagliato Fine is the secret

From the Italia Zuccheri professional line comes a specific reference for perfect dough, according to Giacomo Besuschio, Infundo brand ambassador. 4

A range at the service of the professional’s creativity: this is Infundo, the Italia Zuccheri line featu-

ring six types of sugar, the result of a controlled and certified supply chain and the selection of the best crystals. Three Vagliati (sifted) - Fine, Medium and Large - and the Fondente powder, as well as the Impalpabile and Granella (in three sizes) make up this extraordinary range: different sugars, in terms of size and composition, which give rise to specific performances. Thus, the ideal sugar for the dough of a leavened product is different from the perfect

l’ ngredient

one for an icing, just as grains are not all the same and the Impalpabile is a precious ally in a chocolate cream as told by the Infundo brand ambassadors - Antonio Daloiso, Federica Russo and Giacomo Besuschio - in their exclusive recipes that can be downloaded at www.infundo.it, where all the advantages and fields of application of each Infundo sugar are expressed. Infundo brand ambassadors: From left to right, Master pastry chefs Federica Russo, Antonio Daloiso, Giacomo Besuschio

And, given the incipient season, we cannot fail to mention Straciock, Giacomo Besuschio’s panettone made with Infundo Vagliato Fine: «I choose this Vagliato for large leavened products because it dissolves quickly in the dough, thus allowing me not to overheat it for too long - says Giacomo. - At the same time, I speed up production without ruining the mass and the gluten link. The finished product is perfect, extraordinarily soft and avoids unforeseen problems due to the variability of the dough. A very important aspect, especially during the holidays, when the production of large leavened items increases and mistakes are not allowed». Vagliato Fine is not the only Infundo reference in the Straciock panettone: «I complete my leavened product with Granella Grande Infundo on top of the fondant icing prepared with Infundo Vagliato Medio. I prefer it in the decoration of

festive products since it is of a larger grain size: it stands up better to humidity and remains intact, making a product that is as good to look at as it is to eat. Moreover, the leavened product in question bakes for quite a long time, about 45 minutes: Granella Grande Infundo is ideal because it has good resistance to high temperatures and does not melt. The final touch is given by the Impalpable Infundo». www.infundo.it

ecipe panettone

First dough 2000 g panettone flour (type W380) 1000 g water 500 g Zucchero Vagliato Fine Infundo 525 g yeast starter 400 g strong egg yolk 900 g butter Dark Ganache 700 g dark chocolate 66% 500 g water Second dough 500 g panettone flour (type W380) 400 g Zucchero Vagliato Fine Infundo 50 g honey 46 g salt 6 g vanilla 100 g orange paste 400 g light egg yolk 875 g butter 1550 g milk chocolate 46%. 1000 g dark chocolate 68%. dark ganache to taste Dark icing 400 g Zucchero Vagliato Fine Infundo 400 g Zucchero Fine Infundo 330 g almond flour 250 g egg white 30 g potato starch 30 g corn starch 13 g cocoa 5 g vanilla 30 g cocoa grué Granella Grande Infundo to taste Zucchero Impalpabile Infundo to taste

ecipe panettone

FIRST DOUGH

milk chocolate and the 68% dark chocolate in pie-

Once the starter yeast is ready, after having refreshed

ces. Leave the dough to rest for 30 minutes and finish

it three times, put the flour, water, Zucchero Vagliato

by portioning 690g Straciock panettone loaves, then

Fine Infundo, starter yeast and half of the egg yolks

leave to rise for 6 hours at 30°C, humidity 75%.

into the planetary mixer with plunging arms. Knead for 15 minutes until the gluten link is formed,

DARK ICING

add the remaining part of the yolks and the soft but-

Pour all the ingredients into a planetary mixer fitted

ter. Mix the ingredients together until the dough is

with a paddle attachment and knead until a homoge-

smooth.

neous mass is obtained.

Leave the dough to rise for 12 hours at 27°C and 75% humidity, until the dough triples in size.

ASSEMBLING STRACIOCK When the Straciock panettone have risen and are re-

DARK GANACHE

ady for baking, cover with the icing, sprinkle the top

Make the ganache with the 66% dark chocolate and

with Granella Grande Infundo and dust with Zuc-

the water. Melt the dark chocolate and heat the water

chero Impalpabile Infundo. Bake at 165°C, closed

to 60°C. Make an emulsion between the two ingre-

valve, for 40 minutes.

dients and refine it with a mixer. Leave to crystallise overnight so that it is ready for the next morning. SECOND DOUGH After 12 hours, when the dough is ready, pour it into the mixer and add the flour. Leave the dough to knead for 15 minutes. Stir in the Zucchero Vagliato Fine Infundo and knead for 5 minutes; add the honey and knead for a further 2 minutes, then add salt and vanilla and continue for a further 2 minutes. When smooth, add the orange paste and a first part of the egg yolks; when absorbed, add the second half and the soft butter. Incorporate the previously prepared dark ganache 8

and, when the mixture is dry, finish with the 46%

©Staralab.com

tory by

s s

tory by

Italian and French croissants not only for breakfast Three different pastry doughs and an infinite number of fillings at all hours to satisfy all tastes Marco and Fabio are the owners of Pasticceria Molé in Carate Brianza, opened in 2009 following a joint project based on a common goal: always being in line with the customer’s wishes. The pastry shop is geographically well located in the province of Monza and Brianza. It is the result of the desire of the two partners to leave their previous jobs as employees, Marco in confectionery and Fabio in catering, to create a new business in terms of format and vision. Work organisation is also modern, with Marco defining it as “interchangeable” roles so that everyone can get their hands on all the processes at any time. The furnishing layout is also functional, with a cafeteria and table service inside and outside in the dehors, for morning breakfast, lunch or an allhour snack.

At Pasticceria Molé, customers will find a line of croissants that is truly unrivalled in terms of taste and quality of the final product. A new confectionery proposal with less sugar and more creamy fillings. Three different pastry doughs for croissants “Breakfast is one of our strong points”, Marco tells us “and it is based on three different doughs,

tory by

so that we can offer different kinds of croissants in terms of taste and consistency: the Italian Croissant, prepared with Antica Tradizione Besozzi Oro flour; the wholemeal croissant together with Antica Tradizione; and the French Croissant, with Antica Tradizione and Besozzi Oro Sfoglia flour for a greater friability.

and what makes the big difference is the type of dough, which, thanks to long leavening times and the use of natural mother yeast, remains soft all day long. We chill the croissants after they come out of the oven in the blast chiller to maintain

©Staralab.com

And the fillings The Italian croissant is filled with cream and fresh fruit, the French one with 15 different fillings: apricot and Darbo raspberry jam, cream and hazelnut, which change according to the season, sometimes also with fresh fruit and cooked cream. “All our croissants are sold throughout the day,

tory by

the high quality of the product and ensure that our croissants can be enjoyed as an afternoon snack.”. Mignon Proposal We offer 30 different mignon formats, born out of our own creativity, and we do not necessarily use moulds because we do not want to be a replica of what other bakeries offer. We also try to recreate traditional flavours in slightly different shapes.

snacks and focaccias, which some of our customers also enjoy during their lunch break.. The Large Leavened products We are always ready to test new fillings, but in the end if they do not convince us they do not become part of our offer. We keep the more traditional references such as the Classic Panettone di Milano with sultanas and candied fruit and the chocolate and walnut version. The Peach Panettone is one of our specialities, with semi-candied peach cubes that we leave to infuse in a homemade peach liqueur to increase its aroma. We have chosen to work with raw materials of the highest quality and thanks to the Besozzi Oro Antica Tradizione flour and long leavening times we obtain a product that stands out for the taste and softness of the dough. Our customers have understood that quality requires time and they know they have to book our large leavened products well in advance, because of the leavening times that also affect production.

Strengths We do all we can to open at 7 a.m. with the full range of products that customers can find for the rest of the day and we put a lot of effort into this. In fact, those who come for breakfast often take away a tray of mignons for the evening. And savoury products The savoury section meets the demand for a salty snack or a breakfast with pizzas, savoury 14

www.italmill.com - abitalmill@abmauri.com

Sabrina Bellini

rands

the new Fugar range The world of confectionery is flooded with hazelnut derivatives in pastes and creams. In confectionery the hazelnut is used in an infinite number of recipes, while in ice-cream making it is the best-selling flavour in Italy. Drawing a parallel between a hazelnut paste and a wine, we can say that both goods originate from plants that have been cultivated by man for thousands of years. Furthermore, the final product is strongly influenced by the ability of the craftsmen, on the one hand, and the oenologists, on the other hand, to intervene in the various stages of processing. In addition to high quality hazelnuts, Fugar has never stopped searching for roasting and milling processes that would provide pure pastes with richer taste tones and fragrances. Our R&D laboratories have completed the development of two new pure hazelnut pastes, which

share the same matrix, the most valuable one: Tonda Gentile Trilobata quality from Piedmont plantations. What changes is the different degree of roasting, which determines not only the difference, but also the name of the two pastes: “137” and “144”, i.e. the degrees of the two roasting temperatures. Thus, the Fugar catalogue’s segmentation and offer is enriched, meeting the needs of those consumers who prefer more intense aromatic and flavour levels. We asked a sommelier to describe our two references after a pure tasting, as if they were a fine wine. He opened up a fascinating descriptive treasure chest that brought to our senses the richness of the creations. There are basic gradations that recall scents of earth, forest, wood, dried flowers. Little www.fugar.it nuances of chestnut. The two different toastings give, at different intensities, shades of cocoa, coffee and caramel. The finish is clean, strong and balanced with a distant spicy point of nutmeg and tobacco. www.fugar.it

rands

b is born, the new brand of

Ingredients by All that can be used by a pastry chef and an amateur with the addition of some unmissable new products.

From the experience of Silikomart, from constant listening to the needs of the market and from the comparison with the major players in the field, i78 - Ingredients by Silikomart - is born, a full range of smart, specific, innovative and carefully selected ingredients and products, able to all agree, professional pastry chefs but also amateurs and pastry enthusiasts, in the preparation of all types of recipes, from the simplest to the most elaborate, in just few quick steps. I78 - Ingredients by Silikomart products are

the result of rigorous tests developed in our R&D Lab Hangar78. Products for decoration, synthetic and natural food dyes, preparations for cakes, additives, concentrated pastes: a complete universe of products dedicated to pastry, often available in two different sizes, to meet the needs of professionals but also those of amateurs. The products will be distributed online and offline through specialized shops. The advantages? Extreme practicality and ease of use, reduction of processing times and waste, with the serenity of constant top results, even when the preparations are entrusted to a less experienced employee. There is great excitement on the market this cutting-edge product: “The One Glaze” powdered mirror glaze, a single product for making multiple mirror glazes. www.silikomart.com

rands

The One Glaze

The only powdered mirror glaze preparation that ensures the same results as the one prepared ad hoc. A single product to create multiple glazes. Easy to use (it is practically impossible to fail), it does not require the addition of other ingredients but only water ... It can’t get easier than that! Furthermore, The One Glaze by i78 by Silikomart can be flavored with concentrated or chocolate pastes and colored with water-soluble colorants (including natural ones). Available in two sizes: 300g and 1Kg pot to meet the needs of all consumers. The One Glaze powdered mirror glaze guarantees a transparent and shiny result, which is maintained even at negative temperatures.

HOW TO USE

1. POUR 300g of The One Glaze and 240 g of water. 2. MIX with the hand blender. 3. HEAT until boiling. 4. MIX & COLOR.

5. USE at 40°C / 104°F on frozen cakes, semifreddo, mousses, creams.

THE BENEFITS OF THE ONE GLAZE BY i78 BY SILIKOMART ∙ Easy to use ∙ Versatile ∙ No ingredients to add, just water ∙ Will always be a success ∙ Customizable in different colors ∙ It can be flavored with concentrated pastes ∙ Easy to store ∙ Easy to dose ∙ Quick to prepare

rands

New creams from PreGel has developed a range of creams that guarantee taste and consistency to simplify the work of pastry chefs and bakers, to keep on offering new products that can satisfy the creativity of professionals. The first presented products are the Farcimax: ready-to-use filling creams made with quality ingredients and a velvety consistency. They are

ideal for filling croissants, cakes, sweet crepes, pancakes after baking or as a filling for muffins, cannoli and tartlets. Available in three different flavours, these creams are perfect for diversifying the offering. Farcimax Fiorbella® is the much-loved gianduja flavour made from the delicious combination of cocoa and hazelnuts. A must-have in any confectioner’s shop. Farcimax BonitobonTM, with its intense hazelnut and milk flavour, is perfect for offering brioches with an unexpected and delicious

rands

filling. The right cream to surprise the sweetest palates. Finally, the cream with the most delicious taste: Lancillotto™ Crema Biscotto. A unique after-bake cream with a unique flavour suitable for filling a variety of preparations such as muffins, crepes and pancakes. It is also perfect for use in cold pastry to flavour mousses, or to fill mouth-watering banana muffins, but it can also be combined with coffee biscuits to create a tasty combination of flavours. All three Farcimax are available in 2 x 5 kg buckets per unit. In order to simplify the icing and decoration process

of cakes and other baked products, PreGel proposes the new Covermax Decor: three post-baking creams designed for icing and decorating many pastry products such as donuts, biscuits, cream puffs and éclairs. Thanks to their innovative formulation, they are suitable for covering products to be packaged, such as panettone, pandoro and dry biscuits, as the cover will be dry and opaque at room temperature and will not stick to the packaging. In addition, Covermax Decor covers guarantee a clean cut without smudging. Covermax Decor are available in three flavours (Choc, Chocowhite and Pistachio) and are sold in 2 buckets of 5 kg per unit. Chef’s tip: use the new creams to enrich and enhance panettone cakes, celebration cakes and other baked goods made with PreGel confectionery products.

pregel.com