n.115
SEPTEMBER
2021
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editorialis
Long live Pizza!
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or us who have been writing about pizza for almost twenty years, it is always a pleasure to discover that pizza, symbol of Italy, is one of the most famous dishes in the world. It is imitated all around the world, sometimes it is mistreated with improbable mixes and toppings, for example we have discovered that the “Happy” pizza, cooked with marijuana, is a popular dish in Cambodia. Beyond every kind of weird matchings, pizza remains pizza, a food that we can consider as a dish that belongs to the whole humanity. A humanity that has appreciated even more this practical, economical, very tasty food in the hardest months of the last pandemic. In fact, pizza was the most requested dish in food delivery, thus also carrying out a function, even socially, to guarantee food at home when you could not go out. An almost salvific function, after all it is part of its history, in Naples (where the most famous tomato and mozzarella version was invented) “solved” the daily problem of many people. Since then he has run across a long way, even reaching the space: we have received news that NASA has funded and tested a 3D printer that can create pizza for astronauts in half the time compared to an average pizza chef. It could be garnished in a variety of dressings and sauces, including vodka sauce and burrata. As a matter of fact, Americans have the arrogance to say that they invented pizza, but they are the most numerous eaters of pizza in the world. They also have chosen a month to celebrate it, that is October…. Let’s not exaggerate because pizza is not exaggeration, pizza is simplicity, it is getting the maximum taste and nutrition with poor ingredients, but above all pizza, the origiinal one, the one we like to tell, passes through the hands of the pizza master, from his white art, by its good taste. This is pizza. Long live pizza!
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l’INTERVISTA
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l’INTERVISTA
PAOLO SURACE Neapolitan Pizza is the essence of Naples, it is a symbol, a tradition
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e are in the heart of Naples, in Piazza Carità at the Restaurant Pizzeria Mattozzi, since 1833. The Surace family is a historic family of restaurateurs, well known in Naples for other restaurants. In 1959 Alfredo Surace, with his two sons, Franco and Lello, took over the restaurant. Today the owner of the historic restaurant is Paolo Surace, who grew up as a pizza master with his father Lello. He proudly continues the tradition of True Neapolitan Pizza, his father’s work in the True Neapolitan Pizza Association to protect and spread this heritage throughout the world. How and when was the Mattozzi pizzeria born? «The restaurant in Piazza Carità was born in 1833 under the name of” The rooms of Piazza Carità “by the hand of Antonio La Vecchia and was frequented by the intel-
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lectuals of the city, such as Francesco De Sanctis, one of the greatest critics and historians of Italian literature in Nineteenth century. The Surace family, took over it completely in 1959 after several decades of running the restaurant, thanks to Alfredo Surace». When did you stretch your first pizza… what did maestro Lello tell you? Has he ever dedicated a pizza to you? «I will never forget my father’s hands on mine while he gave me the knowledge and manual skills of his work. Very soon he brought me to a pizzeria, he let me have fun and it was the best way to transmit his great passion. A few months before leaving us, Lello dedicated me a pizza that he called with my name, the “pizza Paolo Surace” with courgette flowers, Vesuvius cherry tomatoes, radicchio and buffalo mozzarella from Campania». What is an original “Neapolitan Pizza” for Paolo Surace? «The Neapolitan Pizza is the essence of Naples, it is a symbol, a tradition, a long love story of a brilliant and creative people who created the best and most popular dish in the world». What do you carry in your heart, of the teachings of Dad Lello? «Dad Lello was a great father, a unique example of inte-
grity and great human values. First of all, I would like to thank him for having always respected his family and for giving me all the love a good father can give. I am very lucky when we talk about the working aspect, because Dad Lello was tireless, he was perpetually curious, his desire to evolve while keeping tradition firm was overwhelming». One hundred years of history, many guests, many personal stories, is there an anecdote related to some customer who sat at these tables? Tell us ... «We have seen mayors, ministers, celebrities pass by, passing by show business people including the legendary Gianni Morandi or personalities like Roberto Saviano; but we owe the funniest scenes to the encounter with pizza chefs and Japanese culture, thanks to the great international commitment we have had since 1984 with the AVPN (Vera Pizza Napoletana Association)». Great is your passion for this job, are there any plans for the future? «The history of the Surace family has always been seasoned like Neapolitan pizza, with great simplicity and humility. This is why my great project for the future is to continue the family tradition, trying to remain a point of reference for the people of Naples and an outpost of Neapolitan gastronomic culture for people who come to visit us».
Ristorante Pizzeria Mattozzi - Piazza Carità 2 - 80134 Napoli - 081.5524322 - www.ristorantemattozzi.it 6
l’INTERVISTA
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gliATTREZZIdelmestiere
Novelties by From Gi.Metal:
from delivery to the home made world
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ince its birth, Gi.Metal has preferred its presence at trade fairs and events of the sector, thus allowing to open a channel of communication and comparison with pizza makers and restaurateurs. This continuous dialogue has improved the creation of all the products currently in the catalog. In the last 2 years, Covid has, unfortunately, imposed a stop to this beautiful custom, only partially recovered through social activity. Finally, the signs are positive, we can see the possibility of resuming the live meetings starting from next fall. Gi.Metal is ready for this restart, which sees the first stop in Paris, at Parizza, 13-14 October, the second
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gliATTREZZIdelmestiere
in London for the European Pizza & Pasta Show, 18th and 19th October, before returning to Italy for the most awaited event of the year: Host 2021 at Fiera Milano 22-26 October. In the hope that it can represent a definitive signal of a safe restart of the whole sector, Gi.Metal will welcome visitors with the news of recent years. Home delivery was growing strongly even before Covid but has undergone an acceleration that is as necessary as unexpected. At that time, Gi.Metal already conceived an innovative delivery project in the launch phase: Redbox. Redbox responds to the need to maintain the quality with which the food has been baked right up to the customer’s home. Thanks to a patented temperature and humidity control system, it is possible to extend the round of deliveries without fear of disappointing the customer: they will receive a hot and fragrant pizza like at the pizzeria table. Redbox is powered by a long-lasting lithium battery. It is offered in two models, 10 and 12 pizza boxes, it can be mounted on cargo scooters, both electric and petrol, as well as in cars, with a special adaptation kit. The advantages, for the pizzeria that decides to equip
itself with Redbox, are innumerable and immediately tangible: the qualitative improvement of the delivered product, immediately perceived by the customer, is combined with the optimization of the outputs: more deliveries in the same journey. This inevitably leads to an improvement in the business: increased earnings, satisfied customers, saving time and consumption, thus distinguishing itself from the competition. Redbox is designed for the entrepreneur who does not undergo the delivery service, but wants to make it fundamental and profitable for his business, with a project that focuses on product quality and customer satisfaction. Another novelty of 2021 concerns table service with the introduction of the first perforated trays, which incorporate the characteristic that makes Gi.Metal blades famous all over the world, drilling. The new perforated trays - cutting boards are a multifunctional product for catering as they serve as a cutting board, tray, plate and display. The structural features that distinguish them are the special feet, which keep the base raised from the support surface and the perforated surface, which allows the steam and humidity to be discharged. These two characteristics work together and are necessary to best preserve the quality of the pizza, focaccia or product placed on it. The perforated trays are available in two different shapes: rectangular in two sizes: 40x60 cm (ideal for pizzas by the meter / in shovel) 25x40 cm (ideal for Roman pinsa), round in 3 sizes, depending on the pizza placed on them: from 33 cm, 41 cm up to maxi from 50 cm.
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gliATTREZZIdelmestiere
The latest novelty, which sees Gi.Metal addressing a new target, is represented by the enlargement of the products of the Amica line, designed for the private individual who uses the traditional home oven and needs the right tools to make the experience of making pizza at home. The new products of the Amica domestic line are useful in all phases, from preparation, to cooking, up to table service. The stainless-steel pastry board is ideal for preparing any type of dough: pizza, bread, pasta, sweets, without dirtying or scratching the kitchen worktop. Its surface, completely smooth, allows the pasta to flow, without sticking just like in professional kitchen tops. The shovel is the tool that allows you to easily take the disc of pizza seasoned from the worktop and insert it into the oven, safely
and quickly. The shovel is made of anodized aluminum: resistant, sliding and, above all, hygienical, unlike the wood sometimes used for household tools. Available in the two most requested sizes, 30 or 33 cm in diameter and a 25 cm handle; perfect combination for standard domestic ovens. For the optimal cooking of the pizza, the 4 mm thick stainless-steel plate is perfect to be placed in a central position or in the highest level no traditional, set to the maximum temperature. The excellent thermal conductivity of the steel, up to 10 times higher than common refractory stones, allows rapid heating of the plate and uniform cooking of the pizza in a few minutes. Finally, once cooked, a useful tray allows you to present the pizza to diners. It is a tray with a unique design, its edges are reminiscent of the petals of a flower, allowing the wheel to enter between one petal and the other by cutting the pizza into equal wedges. Shovel, tray and cutting wheel are part of the “A Casa Mia” Kit, the complete kit for preparing a tasty and excellent pizza in your home oven, like the one you eat in a pizzeria! An indispensable kit for the amateur pizza chef! gimetal.it
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Eventi
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Safety and innovation
n October, the date with Host will be live. Live appointment at Fieramilano, from 22nd to 26th October, 2021 with the most important Italian and international companies. The main topic is the safety of products and environments, but there will be space dedicated to news. Like the event dedicated to “Luxury Pastry in the World” by Iginio Massari. Then, the Smart Label Innovation Award is back, the award dedicated to those who make innovation. From the Internet of Things to energy saving, from green sensitivity to the economy circle, from security to hygiene, from brand new formats and locations, to the adoption of new materials and new approaches for the world of catering. The menu of the 42nd edition of HostMilano will be rich, which promises to be even richer thanks to the simultaneous holding of TUTTOFOOD, the reference fair of the agri-food ecosystem. Next Normal will give a particular look at the priority for companies around the topics of safety and quality. Two keywords, which concern not only the products, but also the environments in which they are offered. According to the experts, consumers will decide in the future to direct their choices towards those professional activities (from restaurants to cafés, from ba-
kers to pastry shops) who will be able to gain trust not only by virtue of their products, but also thanks to the technologies adopted to keep their spaces “safe”. As mentioned, the SMART Label Host Innovation Award will return to the Rho Fiera pavilions, the competition open to all “innovative” companies held in collaboration with POLI. Design Consorzio del Politecnico di Milano, and with the patronage of ADI - Italian Association for Industrial Design. From contests to cooking shows, from seminars to training moments, the “business” during the 2021 edition of HostMilano will be accompanied by a menu consisting of over 800 events dcovering all the macroareas of the event. In the foreground, the return of an appointment as “Luxury Pastry in the World” by Iginio Massari (in the presence of the most important pastry chefs in the world) and, to stay at Gelato and Pastry, of the international championships organized by FIPGC International Pastry Federation Ice cream shop Chocolate shop. There will also be, in the world of coffee bars, events and competitions organized by ALTOGA, the National Association of Coffee Roasters and Importers and Food Wholesalers.
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pubbliredazionale
At HostMilano proposes GL 5-200
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other yeast ready to use at any time of the day without having to undergo the classic steps of leavening. This is what Esmach GL sourdough generators guarantee to all operators in the sector who choose their use. At the service of Esmach bakery for 50 years, it will present its new GL Easy mother yeast generator at HostMilano 2021.
From a mother yeast base to which flour and water are appropriately added, or directly from zero, the GL yeast generators allow you to safely manage the mother yeast to be incorporated into the dough in
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GL MINI 5 - 10 - 15
different percentages depending on the product to be obtained. They also ensure considerable time savings, programmable and repeatable cycles and a constant working method. Bread and baked leavened products in general that are obtained with the use of liquid mother yeast, are products of the highest quality, fresh, genuine, without preservatives and without artificial components, highly digestible and with a particular taste and aroma reminiscent of processing. crafts of the past. But let’s see in detail how it works. The transparent and completely openable lid is designed to conveniently pour the ingredients and have full access to the tank for cleaning operations. The mixer ensures complete mixing, maturation and conservation at the right temperature of the mixture, in a soft and delicate way. The shovel is removable to facilitate cleaning operations. The electronic control panel with digital or Touch display in the latest Easy version manages and stores times, temperatures and alternation of work phases. In short, the GL range meets conscien-
GL MINI TWIN 50
GL MIDI 30 - 60
GL MAXI 100 - 200
pubbliredazionale
tious professionals who want to obtain leavened bread, of constant quality and taste, in irreproachable hygienic conditions. The GL range is divided into 10 models divided by size: MINI, MIDI, MAXI. The GL MINI range includes 6 models: from 5 kg - 10 kg - 20 kg where the 10 kg and 20 kg ranges are also available in the new Easy version and the MINI TWIN 50 model. For production capacity and size, it is particularly suitable for use at artisan bakery, pastry and pizzeria labs for qualified production of small-medium quantities. GL MINI TWIN 50 thanks to its 2 tanks, offers the possibility of simultaneously producing two types of Mother Yeast with different PH, flavor and aroma. This allows to obtain the right and desired mother yeast for each product, from bread to pizza, focaccia to delicate pastry products such as croissants, Panettone, Colomba. The GL MIDI range includes 2 types: 30 kg and 60 kg. Due to its production capacity and size it is particularly suitable for use in artisan bakery, pastry and pizzeria workshops for qualified productions of medium-large quantities. The GL MAXI range includes 2 types: 100 kg and 200 kg. Due to its production capacity and size it is particularly suitable for use in artisan bakery, pastry and pizzeria workshops for qualified production of large quantities. www.esmach.com/it/ 13
L’inserto dedicato al mOndo della pasticceria, gelateria e caffetteria
e t o n t e e w s a n o e d u l c n To co
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sweetadvertorial
dessert that warms the heart
The of every Italian is now a liquor
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here’s a tasty new entry at Bonaventura Maschio. The historic Treviso distillery, backed by the experience of five generations in the world of distillation and liqueur-making, presents its personal tribute to tiramisu: a liqueur that, with its rich, creamy taste, will recall you the thrill of that first spoonful in your favourite dessert. No matter who invented it or what the original recipe is, Tiramisu now belongs to all Italians, and is a perfect synthesis of our cuisine: a simple, genuine and delicious dessert! The authentic version of tiramisu is jealously guarded in every mother’s recipe book, each family has its own personal version and each of us is convinced that there is no better tiramisu than the one entwined with our fondest memories of childhood, and after all, we are all right. From now on, that same delicious and reassuring flavour can be enclosed in a glass. Every taste of Tiramisù Di Casa will bring back to mind the gestures we saw countless times when we were children, the soft
cream mixed with the whisk or the wooden spoon, the sound of the mocha machine bubbling, the smell of coffee spreading all over the house and finally the emotion of the first spoonful stolen furtively when mum wasn’t looking. Tiramisù Di Casa is the perfect, mouthwatering conclusion to any meal. It can be enjoyed at room temperature or, on hot days, with an ice cube. Once poured into the glass, try adding a sprinkling of bitter cocoa on the surface so that it will be totally faithful to its original version. You can try Tiramisù Di Casa in your favourite bar or restaurant, buy it in the best wine shops, pastry shops or online, and enjoy it in the peace and quiet of your own living room or as a gift for friends to celebrate a special occasion. Wherever you are, every sip will take you home... Because home is where there is a tiramisu waiting for you. 17