Red Magazine - January 2016 by myinquirer dotnet

d /r e et w. in

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Forward March Nanette Medved-Po

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EDITOR'S NOTE

A Good Start We spent New Year’s Eve in the middle of the ocean, watching fireworks and eating 12 pieces of grapes to represent the 12 months of the new year that symbolize how sweet we hope 2016 will be. And even if my husband preferred that our kids stay at home because they’re still toddlers and midnight is way past their bedtime, I insisted we should all be together. As they say, how you spend the first day of New Year is a sign of how the rest of your year is inclined to be. In our January issue, we feature Nanette Medved-Po on the cover, the woman and the brains behind Hope In A Bottle. There are many initiatives to choose from and support, but this one gives one hundred percent of its proceeds to the building of classrooms in the provinces. I personally think it’s such a noble cause for our country’s future. How else can we educate our youth if they don’t have proper classrooms to stay in, if there’s no sufficient infrastructure in place? Nanette’s initiative seems so simple and yet it is so effective, and it brings significant changes to many students’ lives. It’s 2016. The new year has begun. I hope you all were able to do the little meaningful things you believe will do you and your loved ones good at the stroke of midnight. Besides, most of the time, even a little hope goes a long way.

@riaprieto

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CONTENTS

ADMIRED

Nanette Medved-Po plants hope in a bottle

ACQUIRED

Pillow talk gets a little more entertaining

INSPIRED

A home masquerades as an art gallery

ART

Existentialist art exhibits

TECH

The latest must-have gadgets and appliances

DEVOURED

A unique, high-end dining experience lies outside the city

ATTIRED

Colors of the new year

EXPLORED

Of sunsets and quaint Italian villages

Left: Large canvas bucket bag, CĂŠline, celine.com On the cover: Grey sweatshirt, Earth Positive, earthpositive.se; black velvet pants, Balmain x H&M, H&M SM Makati; black heels, Christian Louboutin, Rustan's Makati

Group Publisher Bea Ledesma Editor in Chief Ria Prieto Creative Director Nimu Muallam Associate Editor Meg Manzano Copy Editor September Grace Mahino Editorial Assistant Denise Fernandez Staff Photographer Patrick Segovia External Relations Officer Liza Jison

Board Chairperson Alexandra Prieto-Romualdez SVP and Group Sales Head, Inquirer Group of Companies Pepito Olarte Sales Director Ma. Katrina Mae Garcia-Dalusong Business and Distribution Manager Rina Lareza

Sales Inquiries Contributing Writers Chryssa Celestino, Jacque de Borja, Loren Dimaano, Angela Manuel Go, Romeo Email: sales@hip.ph Moran, Bambina Olivares Wise Contributing Photographers Koji Arboleda, Javier Lobregat, RG Medestomas, Cyrus Panganiban, Chola Tolentino Telephone No: +63 (2) 403 8825 local 239 Contributing Illustrator Lee Caces

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Left: Marble design throw pillows, Luona Concept Store, luonaconceptstore.com

ACQUIRED

John Robshaw, johnrobshaw.com

Pillow Talk

Creative cushions to brighten up your interiors

Amber Interiors, amberinteriordesign.com

WORDS M E G M AN Z AN O

Jonathan Adler, jonathanadler.com

Tory Burch, toryburch.com

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From the plumped up paddings of cozy breakfast nooks to the thousand-thread count goose down-filled ones inside bedroom sanctuaries, throw pillows are one of the handiest décor pieces to liven up any given space. While we don’t suggest piling on the fluff by using more than five pieces at a time, the key to a good pillow set is the right combination of dimensions. Whether you’re vying for Alexandra D. Foster’s luxurious silk pieces that were hand sewn in northern Italy’s Lake Como or Fornasetti’s classic cushions, dressing up the sofa is the easiest way to update the look of a room— you just need to “throw” a couple of designer duds in. •

West Elm, Estancia Mall

Alexandra D. Foster, alexandradfoster.com

Crate & Barrel, SM Makati

Fornasetti, fornasetti.com

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SPECIAL FEATURE

Garden Fresh

Sunshine and gardens all bottled up P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT RICK S E GOV IA

Jean Claude-Ellena holds a coveted title in the realm of fragrances. As the parfumeur exclusif at Hermès, Claude-Ellena is known for his rather intriguing scents and sensibilities. Credited as one of the world’s best perfumers, the man who has worked in the industry for almost half a century already shows no signs of losing wind, with Jour d’Hermès Gardénia as his newest proof. Created with “flowers, nothing but flowers,” the master perfumer tells of a narrative that closely follows the birth and rebirth of a woman. “Gardenia,” he intimates, “a flower that radiates as much through its beauty as through its fragrance, is the essence of Jour d’Hermès.” The scent’s gorgeous bouquet of rose, tuberose, and jasmine is elegantly bottled with design statements conceived by Pierre Hardy. It’s “a profusion of flowers,” offers the perfumer of his creation, which we think many will choose to decorate their days with. •

1837

The year Hermès was founded

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The brand’s number of perfume corners in the Philippines: Rustan’s Makati, Rustan’s Cebu, and Rustan’s Tower EDSA

The total number of fragrances that Hermès has crafted

9.7

The percentage of its increase in turnover, representing more than 4 billion euros in total sales

An Hermès scarf is sold somewhere around the world every 25 seconds

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The Jour d’Hermès Gardénia bottle is inspired by the classic Hermès aesthetic: sensual curves mixed with an angular base.

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INSPIRED

Curated Conversations

A warehouse’s worth of art is stylishly crammed into a cozy apartment W OR DS ROM E O M ORAN P H OT OGRAP H Y CH OL A T OL E N T IN O AN D JAV IE R LOBRE GAT

At first glance, this moderate-sized apartment in the heart of Ortigas seems to be too full of art. Walk through the front door and in your face are two eye-catching local paintings that depict oddly specific calendars, with smaller pieces of art surrounding it on every side, including the opposite wall. It’s as if the interior designer owner—who obviously has an unyielding passion for art—tried to cram every inch of real estate with what is essentially beautiful clutter. But while that may have been the intention, it’s not entirely true that every inch is covered with art. It simply feels like there’s little negative space for the eyes to rest. It also doesn’t take long for a keen observer to realize that there is, indeed, a sense of order to the hoarding. The placement of each piece

has a general idea behind it. “[The artworks] relate to each other, they have a decent conversation with each other,” remarks the owner, whose chief goal is not only to hang work on his walls but also to promote Philippine art, both classic and contemporary. For example, ceramic art by the late Jose Joya stands side by side with newer, dynamic photography by the young Jed Escueta. “The kids and the old ones have been having an interesting discussion over the years.” Despite the apparent splendor and luxury of having so much beautiful art, he is quick to point out that beauty need not be an expensive endeavor. He motions to his turntable, sitting in a corner behind a Kenneth Cobonpue dining table (a piece that strangely has no traces of the furniture designer’s signature rattan) and connected to relatively cheap computer speakers for audio output. The combination of pieces show that it’s all a matter of discovering what you really like, and dropping pretenses once you do. “[It’s] one of my best buys ever,” he says of the turntable. “You don’t really need to spend [too much] on art. There’s really good art that's not expensive, and there’s really expensive art that’s shit.” Even the powder room is stocked to the brim with paintings. There’s a particular

Left: The curator’s love of stone-like pieces is wellrepresented in this nook in the living area that resembles a museum exhibit display. Opposite page: Anyone who walks through the door is quickly greeted by art and all the conversations the works inspire.

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Clockwise from top right: The apartment’s overall color palette is reminiscent of putty, which the designer finds calming and soothing; this particular space features a mix of tribal pieces and a rare 1956 Arturo Luz drawing of Venice; “I entertain sometimes, so I like gin. Pinoys love scotch, too.” A love of ornate pottery, some from pre-Hispanic times, is also well-represented in the home.

portrait that might make visitors feel a little unsettled; it stares at them as they go about their business. Its placement, however, is just another way to display art. “It’s great because it’s provocative, right? I think it’s interesting to show art in different ways, not just the usual ones.” And a lot of the work seems designed to provoke, if not quietly incite curiosity. There is a giant, blown-up photograph, “The Snake,” another Escueta piece that makes guests either squirm or intrigued because of the snake’s shape. There is a Thai painting—one of the two foreign works hanging in the apartment—that is meant to be a criticism of their royal family. There’s a Ronald Ventura painting that takes childhood images and turns them on their heads into something more grotesque, something less innocent, something more mature. There’s a music box in the study with an outstretched

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middle finger that spins as “Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head” plays. While the apartment may be overwhelming to the senses, it and all its clutter are certainly never boring. In a brief search for what the designer meant by the artworks having conversations, perhaps what he really intended was not only for each piece to resonate with one another but also for them to elicit actual, tangible responses. After all, what good is art if it evokes nothing from the beholder? •

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ART Clockwise from left: “Woman in a Garden” by Claude Monet; “Girl in My Hallway” by Peter Hujar; “Planet” by Elaine Navas; “Slash and Burn” by Fiona Hall; “Sausage Series” by Peter Fischli and David Weiss

January Collective

This year’s international art scene opens with exhibits that tackle diversity and existentialism W ORDS D E NI S E FE RNA ND E Z

PETER FISCHLI DAVID WEISS: HOW TO WORK BETTER Runs from Feb. 5 until Apr. 20

at Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, 1071 Fifth Avenue (at 89th Street) New York, United States of America. For over three decades, the tandem of Peter Fischli and David Weiss has been famous for confronting the seriousness of high art. Collaborating on numerous works together, the two play with diverse concepts of humor, visual culture, and existentialism. Among their compiled pieces include their Sausage Series (1979), Airports (1987-2012), and Fotografias (2005). PAINTING THE MODERN GARDEN: MONET TO MATISSE Runs from Jan. 30 until Apr. 20 at Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London, United Kingdom. It was no secret that painter Claude Monet adored gardens and greenery. As an avid horticulturalist who often did his own planting designs, Monet brought his devout passion outside of his gardens by immortalizing their beauty through lush landscapes on canvases. One his most famous works is a painting of a water lily garden featuring a popular Japanese footbridge. WHEN SILENCE FALLS Runs until May 1 at Art Gallery of New South Wales, Art Gallery Rd., The Domain 2000 Sydney, Australia. Artists from around the globe come together for When Silence Falls, an exhibit that responds to the brutality of often unacknowledged events such as cultural displacement and ethnic cleansing. It features pieces that reflect the sorrow and pain caused by such events as well as the nature of human loneliness. ART FROM ELSEWHERE Runs from Feb. 14 until May 31 at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, Chamberlain Square, Birmingham B3 3DH, United Kingdom. Art from Elsewhere showcases the diversity of art with different pieces and different forms, from photography and video to abstract painting, light sculptures, and many more. The exhibition, currently on tour, compiles key contemporary works from six various regional museums. Participating artists include Aleksandra Mir, Jenny Holzer, Barbara Kruger, and Meschac Gaba. NOLI DEDERE Runs from Feb. 11 until Mar. 12 at Silverlens Gallery, YMC 2F Bldg 2, 2320 Don Chino Roces Avenue Extension, Makati City, Philippines. Along with artists from Japan’s Tomio Koyama Art Gallery, Noli Dedere will also feature the work of Singapore-based Elaine Roberto-Navas and Mexico-based Eduardo Olbés. Though practicing their art abroad, these Filipino artists are still able to make their names known in the local industry, with Roberto-Navas recognized for her highly expressive paintings and Olbés for his innovative sculptures and designs. •

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TECH

Connect and Select The bold and the beautiful from CES2016 WORDS AN GE L A M AN UE L GO

The holidays may have been a great excuse to cross out all the grownup toys on your wishlists, but really, the best and the brightest are still to come. The annual Consumer Electronic Show once again saw companies challenging themselves to deliver the year’s forecast for the latest in automotive technology, trendy wearables, home gadgetry, and personal recreation. Testimony to the phrase delayed gratification, here are some of the top picks worth watching out for.

EHANG 184 PILOTLESS VEHICLE

OCULUS RIFT VIRTUAL REALITY Originally proposed as a Kickstarter campaign, the Rift headset is now one of the most anticipated VR instruments in the market. The Facebook-owned company is now considered one of the pioneers in the industry, and their much-awaited console is slated to be released in March of 2016 along with 100 games available for consumers to choose from. With its high-resolution display, state-of-the-art processor, and integrated headphones that provide a 3D audio effect, there’s no doubt that the world of gaming is about to change for good.

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The year 2015 saw drones as a popular trend, but Chinese tech company EHang created a similar concept on a much bigger scale—big enough to fit a human being. Called the 184, it is the world’s first personal flying vehicle, is more like a low-altitude pod than a helicopter, and can only travel for 13 kilometers at a time. The company is still in the process of obtaining necessary permits and safety certification, but nevertheless, it’s an interesting start to what we can imagine is an episode of The Jetsons come to life.

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“I borrowed a creaky laptop from my husband, went into the web, and never came back.” -Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-a-Porter

LG G6 4K OLED TELEVISION

Obviously, TVs are going to be one of the most popular releases in a tech convention, but year after year, LG manages to unveil some of the best contenders in the competition. The G6 offers Dolby Vision images and a stunning picture-on-glass design in a ridiculously thin package—measuring just less than an inch thick. The size doesn’t compromise the quality: the resolution is absolutely superb, and despite the decrease in thickness, it still manages to deliver more colors and vibrancy than ever before. WISEWEAR SMART

2.6 Billion

JEWELRY

Number of smartphone users worldwide SAMSUNG FAMILY HUB REFRIGERATOR

Designed to “reconnect families,” the fridge features a 1080p 21.5-inch touchscreen operated by Tizen that allows users to post notes, reminders, recipes, and everything in between. It also works as a TV and is designed to help you with your groceries by integrating an online Mastercard shopping app that connects to select local businesses. If you still choose to physically go to the store, you can access a photo of the inside of the fridge via the Internet should you forget to bring your grocery list. Aside from this, audio guides and voice control are available for assistance when you do your cooking and your other chores as well.

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5.3M Number of Instagram followers of @ChiaraFerragni, the world's most popular fashion blogger

Designed by Iris Apfel, WiseWear launched its first line The Socialite, aimed at women who wish to be safe, connected, and in tune with their health and wellness all through one device. Stylishly designed and plated with gold or palladium, each piece comes with the standard activity tracker and mobile-synched notifications that we see on already available wearables in the market. However, a distinguishing feature of the bracelet is the security button that allows its wearers to send distress signals to designated contacts or a private security firm in case of danger or emergency.

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DEVOURED

Delicious Domain

A quick dash from the city leads to an elevated dining experience that celebrates the bounty of nature WORDS LORE N DIM A AN O P H OT OGRAP H Y PAT RICK S E GOV IA

Left: The restaurant’s airy main dining area. The Domaine also plans to expand into a bed and breakfast in the future. Above: The roast beef tenderloin comes with a cheddar pithivier cider honey jus.

The city’s lights and towering buildings create the illusion of an urban hub where everything new and unique progresses, but the metropolis is undeniably crowded already with themed cafés and organic restaurants. Hence, when a talented Filipino chef from Paris embarked on a culinary adventure in Silang, Cavite instead, it was a move that was as risky as it turned out to be wise. Despite working at Hotel de Crillon’s L’Obe Restaurant and Chateau Les Creyeres’ Le Parc Restaurant in France, chef Robbie Ripalda chose to develop sustainable cuisine, given the bountiful, fresh supplies found near his restaurant The Domaine. “We’re in an area where produce is abundant, from root crops and livestock to seafood. Taal is there, Batangas is nearby. We are surrounded with nature’s best.”

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It certainly shows in the menu, which changes every quarter; the Yellow Fin Tuna and Farm-Raised Duck or Beef will no longer be available in the next months unless specifically requested, thus reservations are encouraged. The menu highlights local ingredients, which make up 80 percent of the food, by specifying each dish’s origin. The beef, for example, comes from Nasugbu, Batangas, the yellow fin tuna fresh from Bailen, Cavite. Ripalda is no stranger to the art of food and wine pairing. A sought-after tandem is the wild baby cucumber with rosemary and cream cheese appetizer, served with a glass of white wine. The small bursts of flavor create an interesting mix while the rosemary belatedly delivers the spice, but a sip of white wine makes the piquancy

tolerable without extinguishing the flavors. Ripalda is generous with explanations and pairing suggestions to guests, allowing them to experience an extraordinary meal. A backdrop of hills and the crisp, clean air perfectly fit the restaurant’s aesthetic. Despite the modern design, wooden elements and big windows bring nature inside, with glimpses of greenery and blue skies available from almost every corner. Because the usual clients arrive after a long drive from Manila, people are suggesting that Ripalda turn the restaurant into a bed and breakfast, which the chef is amenable to but still with no promise of a final date. Yet even in its current function, The Domaine is more a worthwhile destination rather than just a brief dining stop on the road. •

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ADMIRED

ROBERTO CHABET IS A TESTIMONY TO CHABET’S LEGACY AND INVALUABLE CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE EVOLUTION AND TRAJECTORY OF PHILIPPINE MODERN ART INTO THE CONTEMPORARY. ADMIRED

Breaking Even The real good deeds of Nanette Medved-Po

Gray and white dress, Sacai Luck, sacailuck.com; shoes, Sergio Rossi, Rustan’s Makati

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W O R D S C H R Y S S A C EL ES T I N O

P HO T O G R A PH Y C Y R U S PA N G A N I B A N

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“I was used to not being a celebrity for a couple of years. I don’t have to get out and make sure I looked absolutely perfect. There was no 16

social media. Nobody can catch me and put it up on YouTube. It was a very comfortable time to do something like that.”

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White long sleeved shirt, Alexander Wang, alexanderwang.com; pink dress, Miu Miu, miumiu. com; grey Chuck Taylors, Converse, Glorietta 3

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It was M a r c h 21, 2012, the night before thenactress Nanette Medved-Po faced the public again. She was nervous. She had called up as much media folk to come to a press conference she’s hosting—a small gathering at the Katipunan branch of Seattle’s Best Coffee— and she already knew what they were thinking. She didn’t have a new film; she didn’t have a scandal for them to pen. Yesteryears’ Darna resurfaced for a cause more noble than wearing that iconic red two-piece, though all she had then was news of a project she’s leading. Given the prime media treatment, Hope in a Bottle, an initiative to help build more public school classrooms in partnership with the Department of Education, was received like the fictional superpowers she once had: that a bottle was Medved-Po’s solution to all our educational problems. That she could be the one to save us all. Of course, she wasn’t. But three years since, and Medved-Po continues to do what she promised. To begin with, it isn’t just philanthropy. The project is simple: Friends of Hope Inc. launched its flagship water product Hope in a Bottle, which its retail partners (shops like Starbucks and 7-Eleven) sell. The company operates like any other business. It invests, and it has labor issues. But 100 percent of its profit—no, not proceeds—goes to nation-building efforts. In

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Medved-Po’s case, it’s constructing classrooms. “I have a business that makes money, and I choose to take that money and invest in, let’s say, a school in Tambler, Mindanao. When I go there, I don’t tell these kids, ‘Kawawa naman kayo. You need charity. Here’s a classroom,’” Medved-Po explains, proving a point by making grand gestures in her makeup chair, “What kind of mindset would they have if they feel like it’s charity? That’s not what it is. We believe in these kids. We’re investors, and we want to invest in their future because they are the future of the country.” Speaking to me was not the Nanette of the ’90s. This is Nanette today: the actress who had left the local Tinseltown to pursue finance and entrepreneurship at Babson College, from which she graduated summa cum laude. The woman who valued education, and harbored the hope it brings. “I really feel that the ripple effect of education

is so much greater than anything we could be investing in,” Medved-Po continues. “Our business model is unique in that it democratizes the nationbuilding process. No longer do you need to be very rich to contribute—it just takes making a different bottled water choice.” Since it began, the company has sold over four million bottles, built 29 classrooms, and got kids to believe that they can study with rainwater no longer soaking their textbooks. No more reading in sheds, no more being sheltered by mere tarpaulins. “It’s fulfilling because you see a wonderful side of people. When you think of people in the business world, they’re usually chasing their quarterly earnings. To be able to see a side of them that’s really involved in the stewardship of the country, it’s such a wonderful thing,” she says. “But to see the appreciation of children who don’t necessarily have the opportunities that our kids have, you can’t put a price on how valuable that is.” Medved-Po ends the interview just minutes before she goes in front of the camera again. It’s been a while, but she doesn’t look tense. She looked more anxious in front of her Macbook hours ago, typing up her presentation for a possible co-brand. Back in 2012, she only had news about this project. Today, she creates change. •

M AKE UP CH RIS T IN E DUQUE H AIR S YDN E Y H E L M S L E Y

Charcoal gray hoodie, Nike, Greenbelt 5

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ATTIRED

Minimal Appeal This yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hues du jour

S T YL IN G M EG MA N Z A N O PH O T O G R A PH Y KO J I A R B O L EDA

Dress, Harlan + Holden, Adora, Greenbelt 5

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Left: Top, Harlan + Holden; skirt, Jaspal, both from Adora, Greenbelt 5 Opposite page: Top, Joseph, SM Aura; top, Reiss, Greenbelt 5; trousers, Joseph, SM Aura; belt, Zara, Greenbelt 5

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MAKEUP G IA L ALU O F MAC COS M E T IC S H AIR S YDN E Y H E L M S L E Y M ODE L S H E KIE QUA H OF I D EA L P E OP L E

Dress, Reiss, Greenbelt 5

EXPLORED

Sea Escape

A watery detour from Italy’s more commonly trodden paths WORDS JACQUE DE B ORJA PH O T O G R A PH Y R G M ED ES T O MA S

Manarola is one of the five villages known to have the best view of the pastel-colored houses along the coast.

Stepping out of the train station is a surreal experience: the view of the Grand Canal greets new arrivals, and the buzzing sounds of tourists getting tickets to vaporettos don’t ruin it one bit. Serving as a gateway from the modern world is Statzione di Venezia Santa Lucia’s steps, the final threshold to the historically rich city that is endearingly called La Serenissima.

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You hear it time and time again. Venice is one of the most romantic cities in the world, incredibly adept at ensnaring tourists with its charms. Whether it’s the long winding walks along the tightest of alleys or the fact that its taxis have long been replaced by gondolas, there’s a forgotten charm to the city that makes it deserving of the many romantic iterations.

Where Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal, you’ll find an art museum housed under the old customs building: Punta Della Dogana. A quick walk to its entrance is a visual treat in itself as it affords a view of the stunning architecture. Nearby is the Collezione Peggy Guggenheim, an old residential building that was transformed into a museum, now housing

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Left: Framed by nature: an Italian lady waits for the train in Manarola’s picturesque train station. Below: The island of Burano in Venice is known for its candycolored houses and lace needlework. Bottom: The famed gondolas of Venice.

Guggenheim’s covetable art collection. As one gets deeper into Venice, it becomes clearer that while the place is famous for its romance, it should also be recognized for the large presence of art in it. To those not too keen on heading deep into the main land, taking a different itinerary will lead them to another one of Italy’s gems: Cinque Terre, a string of five villages that overlook the Italian Riviera. Known as a summer destination with its beaches and bright facades, Cinque Terre remains as one of La Spezia’s must-visits. That famous coast you see in travel magazines, websites, and postcards? That’s most likely taken from Manarola, one of the five villages that offer one of the most stunning views of the pastelcolored homes, painted as such so that men who journey out to the sea could easily identify their homes as they come ashore. The other villages are feasts themselves: Riomaggiore offers a haven for hikers with a main artery that leads to the hilltop. Marina, as hinted by its name, offers a much better view of the ocean—complete with freshly fried seafood available—its shore littered with small boats, colorful homes, and a small dock that awaits

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voyagers. Vernazza seemed created just for the sunset, offering tourists a rare chance to slow down their pace with some much needed vino and pizza. While Italy’s stamp has always been the historical allure of Rome, a trip to the country’s seaside is a welcome departure from the tropical mood we’re all too used to. •

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FEATURED

And Then We Came to the End W ORDS BA MBI NA OLI VA RE S W I S E I LLUS T RAT ION L E E CACE S

When the news came, it came very quietly, a whisper in the fashion industry’s newspaper of record WWD, subsequently picked up by various websites and blogs like Racked NY: Jean-Paul Gaultier’s final ready-to-wear collection was finally available at Century 21 in New York. The enfant terrible of French fashion, Gaultier—he of the signature peroxide blonde quiff, the cone-shaped bustiers for Madonna, and the playful, provocative, gender-bending collections—took a gold confetti-strewn final bow from the world of women’s pret-a-porter in September of 2014, sending out a dazzling, if uneven collection in Paris that featured some of his greatest hits, a bevy of brides, and a cheeky tribute to fashion editors everywhere. “The end of an era,”many proclaimed,and dramatic as it sounded then, it was indeed prescient. The days of a true artiste, of a real creative genius helming a storied couture house, seem to be heading towards oblivion with the shock departures last year: Raf Simons from Dior, Alber Elbaz from Lanvin, Alexander Wang from Balenciaga. And now, it is rumored that Hedi Slimane may be exiting Saint Laurent. While Gaultier did not have to battle a corporate army to maintain his artistic integrity, if not his sanity, he did say in an interview with The Associated Press last year that the system

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“does not work…There aren't enough people to buy [the clothes]. We’re making clothes that aren’t destined to be worn.” There were too many collections, he complained. “Too many clothes kills [sic] clothes…Fashion has changed. A proliferation of clothing. Eight collections per season. That’s 16 a year.” Today, he concentrates on producing two couture collections a year. Simons also hinted, when he left Dior, at the creative pressures designers face with having to produce so many collections per year. He told Cathy Horyn in an interview for System magazine, “When you do six shows a year, there’s not enough time for the whole process. Technically, yes—the people who make the samples, do the stitching, they can do it. But you have no incubation time for ideas and incubation time is very important. When you try an idea, you look at it and think, hmm, let’s put it away for a week and think about it later. But that’s never possible when you only have one team working on all the collections.” Alber Elbaz said pretty much the same thing last year when he spoke at Fashion Group International’s Night of the Stars, where he was presented with the Superstar Award, though he added that the role of the designer had changed. “We designers started as couturiers with dreams,

with intuitions and with feelings. We started with, what do women want? What do women need? What can I do for women to make their lives better and easier? How can I make a woman more beautiful? That is what we used to do.” “Then we became creative directors, so we have to create, but mostly direct. And now we have to become image-makers, making sure it looks good in the pictures.The screen has to scream, baby—that’s the rule. And loudness is the new thing. Loudness is the new cool, and not only in fashion. I prefer whispering.” So perhaps it is ironic yet fitting that in the end, all those clothes produced for buyers who don’t buy, for seasons that don’t make sense, for an industry that demands this insane and backbreaking pace, find their way to the racks of discount outlet stores everywhere. And there, buyers do buy, because they know a bargain when they see it. A black tulle miniskirt from Jean-Paul Gaultier’s final spring 2015 collection for $279? Yes, please. This is when high fashion becomes a democracy.•

DISCLOSURE: Bambina Olivares Wise is a correspondent for WWD.

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INSPIRED

The Man Who Fell to Earth

RED bids farewell to David Bowie by commemorating the pop culture icon’s most beloved looks WORDS DE N IS E F E RN AN DE Z

BOWIE BOOK CLUB David Bowie was also renowned for being an avid reader of all sorts of books—from history and philosophy to magical realism. In his list of top 100 books, released in 2013, Bowie curated an eclectic selection of titles that span the last century from which anyone will find something to love and relate to. Here are some of his literary picks.

THE STRANGER

NIGHTS AT THE CIRCUS

Still one of the most discussed

Narrating a colorful tale of a half-swan,

Stranger also inspired numerous movies,

the book that brought Carter to great

BY ALBERT CAMUS

philosophical texts of all time, The TV series, and songs.

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THE SOUND OF THE CIT Y:

BY ANGELA CARTER

THE RISE OF ROCK AND ROLL

half-woman circus aerialist, Nights was

Gillete compiled photos, historical accounts,

literary heights.

many more into a comprehensive guide for

BY CHARLIE GILLETE

illustrations, music recommendations, and the avid rock and roll fan.

THE SAILOR WHO FELL FROM GRACE WITH THE SEA BY YUKIO MISHIMA

Mishima’s novel is a psychological and

philosophical text that reads as an allegory for post-World War 2 events in Japan.

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RED Ad FP.indd 4

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TMP0022 Lexus ES Layered File 9.75X11.25.pdf

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SEE WHERE SUCCESS TAKES YOU THE LEXUS ES

It’s not about where you come from. It’s about where you’re going. And when you plan to go far, you will enjoy the way the Lexus ES gets you there. Its subtle sense of elegance and impeccable craftsmanship is set to elevate your senses. The spacious interior gives you the room you want, with refined cabin interiors and leading-edge technology to maximise your driving enjoyment. See where success takes you, with the Lexus ES. Find out more at lexus.com.ph

*Country specifications may differ from the model shown.

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