Desire Knits Vol.19 No.1 by InsideFashion

OM SAI MAA

VOL 19 No. 1

Infusion of fashion, blends, colors - An image makeover for knits

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www.taiga.in

TAIGA KNITWEAR PVT. LTD. A-1, St. No. 2, Guru Vihar, Rahon Road, Ludhiana. Ph.: 0161-2635571-72 Cell : 9888080201-02-03 Email : taiga.manu@gmail.com

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OM SAI MAA

Contents VOL.19 No.2 2018

VOL 19 No. 1

12 Overview

Infusion of fashion, blends, colours, it’s an image makeover for knits

18 Trend Analysis 34 Retail

Brick & Mortar still leads, E-com aids overall sales

38 Active wear

Sprinting ahead with millennials steering growth

42 Women’s knits

Infusion of fashion, blends, colors - An image makeover for knits

46 Organic Knits

New brands, awareness surges demand for green tees

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52 Cover Story Status Quo to offer complete wardrobe

a publication by

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Global fashion driving Indian women’s love for tees

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58 Brand Leaders

75 Brand Stories 78 Who’s Who

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12 OVERVIEW Infusion of fashion, blends, colours, it’s an image makeover for knits Knitwear has come of age moving ahead from being just casual wear it has now become everyday wear, even office wear. Growing demand has given a huge boost to innovations. Knitwear makers and brands are now experimenting like never before with fabrics, blends, colours, style and more

s India’s knitwear industry matures, innovations in style, fabrics, colours are driving growth. Trends are changing fast and so is demand. A variety of design styles in knitwear are on display on shop shelves every season. And as Saurabh Singh, Head Designer-menswear, Being Human explains, “Sportswear influence is still the biggest especially the ’90s look, which is big on colour blocking and big branding. For spring, we a have a rich colour palette of deep colours like raspberry, grape, beet red with highlights in fluorescent. For summer, we have soothing pastels and multiple tones of indigo from very deep ones to completely bleached ones.”

DEMAND DRIVING UP STYLE INNOVATIONS

Knits can create a visually appealing project quickly and easily, ranging from pullovers, vests, tees, and more. The silhouettes are familiar but what makes the designs current and fashionable are unique details, such as an innovative edging, a well placed band of color or texture, an unexpected yarn, or creative construction that minimises seams and maximises personal fit. Talking about their brand’s latest styles Rishabh Oswal, President, Monte Carlo says, “This season, we are offering polo T-shirts in striped, microprint, patchwork patterns, etc. In round neck tees, we have slogans, tropical prints, mélange of colours, washes, graphic tees to name a few. The colour palette this is divided into two: one, a strong, vivid palette that creates an effervescent outfit and the other, pastel hues for a subtle look.”

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 Sportswear influence is still the biggest especially for the ‘90s look  Comfortable knit shirts, crisp polos and plain round necks are trending the business casual look  Value added fibres like Lycra, Tencel and Modal are in demand  More ethical and eco products are being explored  Slim, smart fit are the first choice in tees  Mercerised T-shirts work mostly for premium formal wear brands T-shirts are increasingly becoming mainstream, as an all purpose all occasion product, points out Nivida Kohli, Design Manager, Numero Uno. “The trend has caught on with corporates shifting from restricted formal dressing to smart business casuals for everyday work. The T-shirt that was once meant for college goers or as weekend wear or indoor casuals has risen up to be the Friday dress code and now, has made space as everyday work wear with a

smart casual crisp look. Comfortable knit shirts, crisp polos and plain round necks are trending the business casual look.” Spending to dress up for recreational activity is also on the rise. This has led to new relaxed casual styling for street shoppers, cafe goers, college fests and holiday travelers. License and slogan T-shirts attract the youth to express their individuality from a fondness for marvel or DC comic characters

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OVERVIEW

to music bands and trending slogans. Active wear clothing with performance character and on and off the mat wearable is trending with increased consciousness about health and fitness. Denim love that never seems to fade away has rubbed onto knits as well with indigo and denim look and feel for the die-hard denim devotee. Look works best in head to toe denim attires. As Narinder Kaur, Design Head, Turtle puts it, “Polos definitely have a wider share in our brand. Mandarin collars in all its forms and styles are doing well. The colour palette for summer is soft and vibrant from lemon to peach, mint and aquas.”

SLIM FITS STILL SCORES HIGH

Fit is key to a good tee. The basic fit continues to dominate but there are lot of fashion fits making their way into menswear. For example, the baggy boxy fit with dropped shoulders, which can be in either cropped length or in long line version, long line fits are now coming in asymmetrical hemlines. According to Jain, customers are particular about wellfitted T-shirts, hence, they have incorporated a ‘smart fit’ range in Monte Carlo’s collection where they are offering mid sizes (size 39) so that they don’t end up buying T-shirts either too loose or too tight. For Kohli, comfort is key while making a buying decision while

Saurabh Singh, Head Designer-Menswear, Being Human “Sportswear influence is still the biggest especially the ’90s look, which is big on colour blocking and big branding. For spring, we a have a rich colour palette of deep colours like raspberry, grape, beet red with highlights in fluorescent. For summer, we have soothing pastels and multiple tones of indigo from very deep ones to completely bleached ones.”

innovation goes. Most brands try and keep a healthy ratio between fashion and basic knits as although fashion creates awareness and basic creates business, only a right balance creates a strong brand.

Rishabh Oswal, President, Monte Carlo “This season, we are offering polo T-shirts in striped, microprint, patchwork patterns, etc. In round neck tees, we have slogans, tropical prints, mélange of colours, washes, graphic tees to name a few. The color palette is divided into two: one, a strong, vivid palette that creates an effervescent outfit and the other, pastel hues for a subtle look.”

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Kaur feels silhouette, cut close to the body, as slim fit are some of the most popular that consumers are asking for.

BRANDS’ STYLE STATEMENTS

Most manufacturers feel while the largest selling item in their knitwear portfolio is their wide range of tees, it is the plain monochromatic variant that remains a safe choice. Indeed stripes, embroidery, mixed fabrics and appliqués are also popular as they lend individuality to a piece. Large manufacturers are now considering T-shirts to be works of art while other collections such as lounge wear and women’s wear are now as good as it gets as far as diversity and

To lure customers, brands are coming up with innovative style statements. For instance, Being Human’s style statement is: ‘Look Good, Do Good’. “It is what differentiates us as we enable customers to look good and do good, at the same time. We are riding on casual luxury as the central theme this season. This is a mix of comfort and style in equal measures. All our clothes are prelaundered to achieve that soft handle. This season, we have introduced a special line of fashion vests which are perfect for summer/ beach style,” Singh informs. Monte Carlo’s Spring/Summer ’18 collection is all about ultra-chic, suave and trendy pieces. The collection is in line with international fashion trends and is set to dominate the industry. The range features fresh and bold colours and unconventional silhouettes best suited for the playful mood

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14 OVERVIEW of new season. As Oswal explains, “We experimented with a vibrant colour palette for men, which others are still not sure to launch. For women, we have introduced dramatic silhouettes in tops, wherein a lot of ruffle play has been done, a huge range of cold shoulder tops are included.” Divulging Numero Uno’s brand philosophy Kohli observes, “Our thoughts reach out to people who are not at odds with themselves. They don’t crave for a fake persona. What they see is what they get. One who doesn’t long for approvals and is comfortable in their own skin. The only person to really compete with is oneself. Experience the ‘Real You’ with us this season. We realised the need for crossover products and hybrid silhouettes to help be omnipresent as per ever changing lifestyle needs. Accordingly we curated the collections for this season.” Step in and out of work spaces in smart casuals. Smarten up or dress down in fashion casuals as per situational need. Classics are durable and trans-seasonal. Turtle on the other hand is offering a range of jacquards and a basket of engineered dobbies and a capsule collection of prints on two tone pique. The

Nivida Kohli, Design Manager, Numero Uno “We are using cotton rich solids knits in varying GSMs from mid to heavy in our core basics. For casuals, we are using fabrics that give textured, marled, speckled look to the fabric along with a whole lot of prints with updated finishes on fabrics. For soul gratifying collection, we are using fabrics that represent the roots of our brand being truly denim.”

colour palette is pastel bright with ample beige, white and creams.

FASHION VERSUS BASIC KNITS

There has been an on and off swing between fashion and basic knits, however brands have worked well by balancing both products to satiate every customers’ needs. As Singh elaborates, “The ratio of basics to fashion varies vis-à-vis brands/retailers based on their positioning and target customers. For us, the ratio is 20 per cent basics, 20 per cent mid fashion and 20 per cent high fashion/ directional styles. Since we are a fashion brand, we enjoy making new designs every season and to keep pace with constantly changing trends, it’s very important to be flexible.” For Monte Carlo, the ratio between fashion

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and basic is 30:70. Kohli points out, 30-40 per cent is core comprising of wardrobe essential classics with updated look that are trans-seasonal. “Demand for fashion and newness in fabrics and printing techniques is a big opportunity for this category to grow. The complexities that come with it have to be streamlined in this fast growing category to be able to cater to ever changing needs of consumer.” Kaur says, today it is mostly about fashion. Basic is the core which is just 5-6 per cent of the total knit basket. This segment has become highly competitive in pricing. Also, channels through which it is available, makes a difference. Online has the largest platform and the variety being offered, price is definitely a decisive factor. Knit is almost becoming a parallel alternative to a shirt with

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16 OVERVIEW

the kind of design and variety it has on offer. Then there are options in neck styles which vary from ‘V’ and polos to crew neck and round neck, even boat neck for women. For Being Human, crew neck accounts for the majority of T-shirts as anyone from any age, style, size, etc, can easily wear it and it’s

available in maximum number of designs. Polo’s comes in second, they work well for the smart casual look. Apart from them, there are other neck options like V-neck or scoop neck which in is a variation of round neck. Monte Carlo has adopted all three styles however, in terms of demand while polo remains a preference for the uber-stylish and those who prefer smart casuals, round and crew neck is a choice for youngsters (college goers) who like laid back, easy dressing. Kaur says polo is more formal and is the first choice, if you want to dress for an occasion and a clear alternative to shirt. Round and crew are the same. They are preferred by the young and more relaxed purpose, so both have different pull factors.

FANCY FABRIC BLENDS

Narinder Kaur, Design Head, Turtle “Polos definitely have a wider share in our brand. Mandarin collars in all its forms and styles are doing well. The colour palette for summer is soft and vibrant from lemon to peach, mint and aquas.”

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In tees, the most commonly used fabric in basics are single jerseys either in 100 per cent cotton or blends. As Singh says, fashion styles can be 100 per cent cotton or different blends like Tencel, Modal or linen, etc. “Mercerised T-shirts work mostly for premium formal wear brands.” Kohli states, “We are using cotton rich solids knits in varying GSMs from mid to heavy in our core basics. For casuals, we are using fabrics that give textured, marled, speckled look to the fabric along with a whole lot of prints with updated finishes on fabrics. For soul gratifying collection, we are using fabrics that represent the roots of our brand being truly denim.” Indigo, deep blue and colours that allow experimental laundry processes are in. Borro prints and handcrafted techniques inspire mechanically made fabrics that result in fashionable durable and comfortable products. In the active wear segment its futuristic fabrics with performance

characteristics.” Jain adds for basic knits, jersey and pique are used while for fashion knits, interlocked and mercerised are used. Mercerised tees are preferred by the elite who want their clothing to be of premium quality. Kaur agrees and says, “Mercerised is more in polo. It’s fine and superior. And definitely the higher price bracket. Fine dobbies and prints are being done on mercerized polos. Basic and fashion knit generally have a difference in yarns. Fancy yarn and finishes are the call of the day. Mélange, , indigo are the fancy bases, which differentiate from the regular core products. We also do surface ornamentations like print and washing.”

INNOVATIONS & BEYOND

In fabrics, surface textures have become important, double face fabrics are also in trend. Value addition fibres like Lycra, Tencel and Modal are in demand. “For us, about 40-50 per cent of our collection is with blended fabrics,” says Singh. Monte Carlo is experimenting with knit structure, chemical treatments colour palette. Meanwhile, with growing eco awareness, ethical and eco products are being explored to cater to the increasing need for protecting our environment. Active wear is innovatively and aggressively being explored by many to tap this category and wearable technology is touted as the future of knits. Kaur says apart from jacquards and indigos, value addition fabrics like Tencel, Modal as well as linen in knits is catching up. Special technical finishes are also coming in like anti-bacterial to name a few. With such growing expanse and innovative proposition in place, consumers will surely be spoilt for choice in future.

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18 TREND ANALYSIS

TREND REPORT FOR A/W 18-19

Key points Comfort

Comfort is in. One of the identifying trends for 2019 Autumn Winter is Being Easy. The trend is characterized by clothes that are "too big". There is a focus on the new relevance of protection. The need for comfort is conveyed through nostalgia with a lot of inspiration stemming from the fifties and soft candy colored pastels strong for next winter even in outerwear.

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Crafted

Suddenly there’s demand for”crafty” and better designed products and they have become popular, offering something different and new. Consumer’s have noticed this and adapted. This includes traditional ideas of DIY, deconstruction, customization and repair.

Color Blocked

Color-blocking is thought of as the exploration of taking colors that are opposites on the color wheel and pairing them together to make interesting and complementary color combinations Think bold blues paired with eye-catching oranges or monochromatic pairings like lavender to violet and everything in between.

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TREND ANALYSIS

TRENDS Color Texture Silhouettes

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COMFORT

Key trends Colors

Comfort is also conveyed through the use of quilting, oversized outerwear that you can wrap yourself in and a lot of layers and furs This particular trend has a lot of layering and a mute colour palette consisting of creams, whites and beautiful blush pinks for men, and for women, soft metallic colours.

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TREND ANALYSIS

Comfort

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COMFORT

Key trends Textures

The Being Easy trend, seemed to be inspired by the oversized zoot suit of the 1920s and 1930s. The Being Easy and Athleisure trends stemmed from a place of "comfort."The shoulder seams are not fitted at the shoulder line as tradition and common sense dictates, but instead fall beneath the shoulders.

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TREND ANALYSIS

Comfort

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CRAFTED

Key trends Colors

Designers are re-thinking and re-manipulating objects creating an ad-hoc aesthetic. This is translated into the massive revival of punk as well as the major influence of layering, mix and match styling on the streets.

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TREND ANALYSIS

Crafted

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CRAFTED

Key trends Textures

We also see this through the use of unexpected colour combinations with for example pastel palettes that are suddenly offset by a rustic brown or black.

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TREND ANALYSIS

Crafted

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28 TREND ANALYSIS

COLOR BLOCKED

Key trends Colors

Calvin Klein, Marni, and Oscar de la Renta seem to be in agreement: If you're color-blocking in 2018, keep your palette restrained to those three primary colors. With this limited collection, you can focus on the graphic combination of these hues. The more saturated the shade, the better.

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TREND ANALYSIS

Color Blocked

Jackets

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COLOR BLOCKED

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TREND ANALYSIS

Color Blocked

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COLOR BLOCKED

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TREND ANALYSIS

Color Blocked

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34 RETAIL Brick & Mortar still leads, E-com aids overall sales While brick and mortar is still the preferred retail format for knitwear in India, e-com has added a new dimension to overall retail. Metros and Tier I cities are seeing higher online sales in knits but with growing Internet penetration, smaller towns will soon join the bandwagon, thereby giving a huge boost to knitwear segment as a whole, write Ajanta Ganguly and Ajay Goswami

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ith a surge in smart phone penetration across the India, the internet has emerged as an essential tool for business growth and brand recognition. Over the next 15 years, India will see more people come online than any other country, as young consumers show a higher affinity towards online purchases. The country is currently replacing China as the most promising markets for retail expansion, supported by expanding economy, coupled with booming consumption rates, urbanising population and growing middle class. The knitwear sector as a whole is getting a boost from online buyers, although in the innerwear segment, consumers still prefer to buy from brick and mortar stores taking into account the look, touch and feel factor. However, the concept of armchair shopping for knitwear

is still an entirely urban phenomenon and a minuscule part of brand retail segment that comprises of LF’s, MBO’S, EBO’S and franchises, spread across a multi-cultural country like India.

ONLINE RETAIL ON THE RISE

Analysts say the attractive discounting schemes offered by online portals can be only temporary to pull in customers for a while. Since online retailing is relatively new in India, the discounting scheme of global brands is usually channelised through extensive foreign investments. However, it is only temporary as investors will soon want their returns. Extensive discounting all through the year cannot be sustained and once this stops, there will be no significant difference between offline and online retail. “Experts feel the value sales of internet

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RETAIL

Vinod Kumar Gupta, Managing Director, Dollar Industries “Offline retail contributes greatly to knitwear sales, as various brands, as well as private labels, are available in metros and mini metros through department stores and EBOs. Local, smaller players display a retail presence similar to that for active wear, with the availability of products for particular regions. Departmental stores enjoy a good footing among customers while local unorganised stores are popular for this category.”

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retailing overall are expected to increase at a CAGR of 21 per cent at constant 2015 prices over the forecast period but mobile internet retailing will be the most important sales driver. Offline retail contributes greatly to knitwear sales, as various brands, as well as private labels, are available in metros and mini metros through department stores and EBOs. Local, smaller players display a retail presence similar to that for active wear, with the availability of products for particular regions. Departmental stores enjoy a good footing among customers while local unorganised stores are popular for this category,” explains Vinod Kumar Gupta, Managing Director, Dollar Industries, a brand that specialises in knitwear for men, women and children. India’s innerwear market is worth Rs 15,870 crores and estimated to touch Rs 68,270 crores by 2024. It is a high growth category. Gupta says, “The innerwear industry is filled with advancements and innovation. There is advent of new shades like pop colours, glow shine waist bands; abstract patterns and stretchable and quick dry fabrics, sleepwear, active wear, intimate wear, leisure, maternity wear in the inner wear industry. In the future online retailing will be widespread in innerwear. Since online retailing is experiencing random growth, the future of the knit wears will thrive economically.” Knitwear has a lot going for it, if leveraged well. Light, versatile and affordable, its popularity in summers keeps growing. Domestic brands that have added trendy designs have captured the imagination of urban Indian woman. While constantly expanding the increasing requirements for

marketing trend, offline still has the major share for brands/retailers. Whether domestic or global, a brand image is truly created in shop shelves, be it an MBO or EBO, or LF’s or the humble neighbourhood store, where customers can check out the product before buying it. Online shopping cannot compare with a weekend shopping experience at a mall. Many still do not trust the credibility and safety of using credit cards onlineSanjay and prefer safety zone of K the Jain,

Managing Director, T T Limited

“Online sales are emerging as a promising segment but have the drawback of being restricted to urban educated population who account for a small percentage of whole sales especially the mass innerwear segments. Online format undoubtedly is a great tool for brand building ultimately appending the channel sales format. We also have a fully integrated online presence for our products serviced through facilities in Delhi and NCR.”

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36 RETAIL cash registers and credit card machines at physical stores.

Lubeina Shahpurwala, Co-Founder, Partner, Mustang Socks & Accessories “The segment is doing well offline and has encouraging growth potential. However, there are particular aspects that a customer looks for while shopping – like convenience, location, price, etc. This is regardless of whether they are shopping online or offline. If these things are kept in mind by online and offline retailers, there is immense potential for knitwear to boom.”

“Online retail as a segment is aiming to not just deliver products but also to create fashion statements for customers. A customer shopping online is keen on making sure that the products they choose are well presented. The knitwear segment is now manifold– from winter apparels like sweaters, neck warmers, socks, cardigans to dresses, skirts, crop tops, jumpers, shoes, oversized knitted beanie hats and head bands, among others. Generally, these are impulse purchases and can be regularly changed. The segment is doing well offline and has encouraging growth potential. However, there are particular aspects that a customer looks for while shopping – like convenience, location, price, etc. This is regardless of whether they are shopping online or offline. If these things are kept in mind by online and offline retailers, there is immense potential for knitwear to

comfort balanced with a need for glamour, the women’s knitwear industry has come a long way. Elaborating on this, Sanjay K Jain, Managing Director, TT Limited says, “Online sales is emerging as a promising segment but has the drawback of being restricted to urban educated population who account for a small percentage of whole sales especially the mass innerwear segments. Online format undoubtedly is a great tool for brand building ultimately appending the channel sales format. We also have a fully integrated online presence for our products serviced through facilities in Delhi NCR.” However, Jain feels the hosiery segment especially innerwear which is of FMCG nature, is best dealt offline through channel sales in MBOs. “Being FMCG, the need is for a geographically penetrated distribution network across the country. To support this format other ancillary format of sales through EBOs/LFS sales and online sales are used for urban markets. But rural markets which account for a major volume is served through channel sales,” he adds.

BRICK AND MORTAR SUPERSEDES RETAIL SALES

Although online may be the new Indian

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 Offline retail contributes greatly to knitwear sales  Online retail is growing fast and adding to overall sales figures for brands  India’s innerwear market is worth Rs 15,870 crores  Is estimated to touch Rs 68,270 crores by 2024  Online format at best is a supportive sales platform for channel sales

boom,’’ points out Lubeina Shahpurwala, Co-Founder and Partner, Mustang Socks & Accessories. With the Indian knitwear industry being driven by a target group of impulse driven aspirational youth as well as a seasonal market, innovation is the name of the game. Keeping a healthy balance between the online and offline retail platforms by deciding what sells well where and when is crucial. Since online retailing has a cascading brand building impact in a rapidly developing country, robust growth riding on online sales is possible in the knitwear industry as a whole s. Moreover with development of mobile online platforms, the reach of the brand is increasing exponentially, contributing immensely to the overall industry as a whole, although it all has to be linked with offline distribution channels to truly make an impact. Earlier, Indian knitwear industry was dominated by non-branded players but now more branded players are entering the segment. However, it is still not fully organised and LF’s and MBO’s bring in higher sales than standalone stores. Online portals sometimes showcase specialised products which are not available at all offline stores. In the innerwear segment, women prefer to select the style and brand online and then visit nearby innerwear store to have a first-hand experience and maybe buy the product. Experts say online retail is quickly boosting apparel sale in metros and smaller cities and towns. “Despite hiccups in 2016, India remained the fastest-growing online market in the world. Online retail sales in India will reach $64 billion by 2021, growing at a five-year compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 31.2 per cent. But government actions, a slowdown in venture capital funding, logistics challenges, and slow growth in the number of online buyers are holding back India’s online retail market. We are brick and mortar stores, so our sales are not influenced much by online stores. However, we do promotional activities online. As far as the entire knitwear segment is concerned, online stores boost total sales and knitwear garments are preferred over woven for online buying because of lower price range and universal fit. Online retailing is fuelling the growth of all fashion wear not only the knits. It’s definitely going to grow in the future as customers are having more digital access now,” affirms Hemant Agarwal, CMD, V Bazaar.

INNERWEAR RETAILS BEST OFFLINE

Online retailing is fueling growth of all fashion wear in general and not just knits and is expected to grow further as customers in the Tier I, II towns are getting accustomed

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RETAIL

to digital access. However, touch and feel sensation along with elevated store experience is a key differentiator in brick and mortar stores. Innerwear and T-shirts are the staple in this category, where fit, size and comfort levels is the deciding factor, which is only possible when picking an item from a shop shelf rather than a screen. MBOs and LF’s selling innerwear are considered the most significant retail format. Urban women are comfortable in buying innerwear from EBO’s while in smaller cities, neighbourhood stores are preferred.

and IV cities are keener on value products which fit their purpose than a specific brand. Experts feel the online format at best is a supportive sales platform for channel sales, which is what set the cash registers ringing. Most brands peg their price points at the general retail selling price points with a promotional bargain bundled with it. Traditionally a price point ranging at the midpoint of MRP and wholesale price point is the most ideal fostering good sales on this format and in turn does not upset the distribution channel sales segment.

Indian innerwear market is one of the high growth categories in apparel market. The innerwear industry is filled with advancements and is quickly fusing innovation into its articles of clothing. Online platforms are not usually preferred for this category, unless the customer is looking for more variety and steeper discounts. Indeed commerce sites give a lot of discounts but discount- led retailing does not work for us as it erodes brand value every season. It is a wait and watch policy as sooner than later, e-com sites will have to stop giving steep discounts and that’s when real competition between brick and mortar and online stores will begin.

The battle for India’s e-commerce market is about much more than retailing. The textiles industry is extremely varied, with handspun and hand-woven textiles at one end of the spectrum, while the capital intensive sophisticated mills sector at the other end. In global apparel market, brands cannot afford to wait for customers to just walk in, they have to figure out where they are, go there and drag them back to the store and this is where online advertising plays its biggest role.

Brand consciousness depends on customer group. Customers from different socioeconomic segments have different choices and preferences, be it an online or offline purchase. However, customers in Tier III

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Hemant Agarwal, CMD, V Bazaar “As far as the entire knitwear segment is concerned, online stores boost total sales and knitwear garments are preferred over woven for online buying because of lower price range and universal fit. Online retailing is fuelling the growth of all fashion wear not only the knits. It’s definitely going to grow in the future as customers are having more digital access now.”

Online channel is expected to grow at a much faster rate in India as compared to the more established channels. Experts feel it will account for 10.1 per cent of overall retail sales this year, up from 6.5 per cent in 2013. Brands that can go beyond just selling a product and build a story to establish a firm brand identity have a one-to-one relationship with their customers are more likely to thrive online.

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38 ACTIVE WEAR Sprinting ahead with millennials steering growth The millennium has seen a sea change in attitudes and lifestyle of Indians. The New Age man is more health conscious and image sensitive and their pursuit of fitness has increased. The average age bracket for Indian fitness enthusiasts is 20-35 years, and to be able to tap into this big chunk of Indian population with high disposable income and the affinity for fitness, brands have to focus on active wear segment.

he active wear market in more developed economies is obviously more mature from a product, distribution, and quality perspective because these countries have multiple sports categories and are extremely brand conscious. The Indian market is slowly gearing up as traditional relaxed war gives way to western active wear, especially in the women’s category.

 Active wear segment in India estimated at Rs 8,500 crore

POSITIVE GROWTH BOOSTS ACTIVE WEAR

 Domestic brands offering pocket friendly products

Active wear industry in India is estimated at a huge Rs 8,500 crore and is expected to continue growing at an average CAGR of 12 per cent every year and touch sales worth Rs 54,000 crore by 2020. “Indian active wear market has evolved significantly over the last couple of years. The industry has witnessed rapid growth, driven by rising income levels and changing lifestyles. Internationally, the active wear trend is still going strong as

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 Expected to grow at an average CAGR of 12 per cent a year  Touch sales worth Rs 54,000 crore by 2020  Men’s segment has the bigger share  Growth in women’s branded segment on the rise

people turn focus to exercise and healthy living,” points out Kuntal Raj Jain, Director, Duke Fashions.

becoming more health conscious and as a result, adding new health and wellness routines to their hectic lifestyles.

Over the past few years, India has rapidly caught up with the global fitness trend. Driven by the growing wealth, changing lifestyles, and rising urbanisation, an increasing amount of Indian consumers are

“Indian sportswear brands are rapidly proliferating and possess some emotional value and attachment for the Indian consumer. HRX by Hrithik Roshan today is a household name in the active wear

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ACTIVE WEAR category,” opines Afsar Zaidi, CEO and Founder, Exceed Entertainment, HRX. “Fitness should be democratised by making it available to everyone in the country. With that intent, we work on improving the quality everyday under strict quality assurance and make it more affordable for average consumers. Indian sportswear brands have the potential to supersede international ones if we are able to increase presence in organised retail and improve marketing and sales strategy,” he adds. This niche market comprises performance sports brand as well as active wear sub brands, which take off on outerwear or innerwear brands. There are sophisticated performance sportswear brands and brand extensions from those in the apparel categories. Performance sportswear brands sell in the premium category.

MENSWEAR - THE DOMINATING MARKET

Active wear market is galloping ahead in both men’s and women’s section. Overall the segment is rapidly growing at around 40 per cent because the base is too small. Branding has to grow in the women’s category, as many unorganised players are flooding the market with low priced products. Another constraint is that it is only

in the urban areas that women are wearing active wear in casual settings; the rest of the market is dominated by comfortable and loose-fitting ethnic wear. ‘’At Alcis Sports, we are witnessing demand for both men’s as well as women’s segment. The demand for women active wear is growing at a much faster rate compared to men’s though overall the men’s market is bigger,” says Roshan Baid, Managing Director of Alcis Sports. “Several factors are sparking growth in this segment from relaxed dress codes at work place to a remarkable rise in people indulging in various recreational and amateur sports, fitness and outdoor activities. As a direct consequence, the active wear market is growing at a healthy pace,” he adds. Globally, casual wear is the only one which is largely in trend. Formal wear has taken a backseat even in the corporate sector. The complete lifestyle has become lighter, even in the women’s segment, where dressing down for casual get-togethers has taken precedence over dressing up. “At HRX, we see a 65 per cent men and 35 per cent women split in sales but we are certain that woman’s contribution will go up to 45 per cent this year,” adds Zaidi observes.

BIG BRANDS MAKING A MARK

There are different categories in active wear space. Performance wear, which is highly technical and used for athletics; fitness inspired casual wear worn to the gym, around the house and in casual settings. This space is the most popular comprising of items that can be worn both to the gym, or out during the day as well. Currently, this space is dominated by international brands such as Nike, Puma, and Reebok with no strong competition from Indian brands who are mainly medium sized players. However, it is the unorganised smaller players which are most popular.

Afsar Zaidi, CEO and Founder, Exceed Entertainment, HRX “Indian sportswear brands are rapidly proliferating and possess some emotional value and attachment for the Indian consumer. HRX by Hrithik Roshan today is a household name in the active wear category in India.”

“Many big brands are focusing on active wear and its different components. People in India are becoming increasingly more health-conscious. Not restricted to professional sportsperson anymore, sports today are perceived as a ‘lifestyle’ by people across age groups, and they seek suitable clothing and footwear,” adds Jain. There is growth in the active wear segment across pan India. Smaller towns with a smaller base are demonstrating higher

Kuntal Raj Jain, Director, Duke Fashions “The Indian active wear market has evolved significantly over the last couple of years. The industry has witnessed rapid growth, driven by rising income levels and changing lifestyles. Internationally, the active wear trend is still going strong as people turn their focus to exercise and healthy living.”

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40 ACTIVE WEAR growth rates and the contribution of Tier I remain significant. With the internet access through smart phones and laptops on the rise, a new wave of brand consciousness is sweeping the country. The average age bracket for Indian fitness enthusiasts is 20-35 years, which makes for the majority of population of young students and professionals. And to be able to tap into this big chunk, brands have to focus on active wear segment.

SMALL CITIES REARING TO GROW

The future prospects in this category in India look good, though challenging as customers expect global quality, latest technology at affordable price points. Experts feel creating product lines suited to Indian fits and for disparate weather conditions at these price points is going to be a challenge. There is growth in Tier I-II-III cities and is currently almost 50 per cent in this category. “There is a massive surge in demand for quality sportswear across the country, not only among the urban youth but those in the Tier II, III, towns as well. Today, even small cities like Tezpur will have a large number of gyms with consumers demanding

Roshan Baid, Managing Director, Alcis Sports “Several factors are sparking growth in this segment from relaxed dress codes at work place to a remarkable rise in people indulging in various recreational as well as amateur sports, fitness and outdoor activities. As a direct consequence, the active wear market is also growing in the country at a healthy pace, with more and more people opting for an active lifestyle.”

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aspirational sports apparel. We saw a huge gap where on one hand the clothes available in sportswear segment from global brands were often out of reach for the masses, on the other the stuff made by local manufacturers was below-par in terms of quality and technology. Hence, Alcis Sports was born as a premium cutting-edge Indian brand, priced aggressively,” Baid says. Outdoor-wear like sportswear comprises functional product lines but the main differentiator is in the application of technology. Sportswear focuses on specific activities such as running, and swimming while the outdoor wear lines focuses on creating multi-activity ranges like hiking. This is mainly limited to the urban elite but the general active wear for lounging and walking sells well across a pan India market.

ACTIVE WEAR VERSUS PERFORMANCE WEAR

Active wear is normally studio to street clothing. They are meant to exercise, live in, move about and be comfortable as well as fashionable. Performance wear, however, are clothes particularly designed for the purpose of sports with special inbuilt features or technology aids that helps in absorbing sweat, is long lasting, does not fade easily and helps an athlete improve performance in the sport. The product mix is important in this category. Another fundamental differentiation is the retailing and the sports company will need to control the retail ambience. These companies have to either choose the EBO route or have to have good selling points at certain LFS. It is expensive creating a brand

in the performance sports category, which is why most domestic players have stuck to the easier active wear category, which is an extension of their casual segment. Active wear clothes serve the purpose of an active life mixed with a casual social life. They can be used for exercising and then transition into a casual wear. These clothes have more flexibility and more style and comfort. Sportswear is sports specific and is more focused on comfort, functionality, and thermal functions of a fabric. A particular sport demands a particular type of gear and clothes. The bottomline is: The fitness industry in India is a sunrise sector poised for at least 30 per cent growth year on year. The active wear culture is just entering India and is yet to evolve in smaller towns. People are changing their mindset and opting out of comfortable ethnic wear to western active wear when dressing down. The market for performance wear is lucrative but the products are expensive. Hence, the off-take gets reduced. However, active wear will be up and running against all odds as the domestic bigger brands make it an integral part of their portfolio.

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42 WOMEN’S KNITS Global fashion driving Indian women’s love for tees Women’s knit wear segment has seen a new high, thanks to celebrity endorsements, global brands entry and as consumers’ new found love for the segment. While challenges remain, brands are expanding their market share in this burgeoning segment by growing their product base and offering latest styles

recent Technopak study reveals that women’s T-shirts and tops categories are growing fast owing to increasing participation of women in workforce and a generic inclination for western wear. Women tops and shirts market is now pegged at Rs 1,979 crore and expected to grow at a CAGR of 14 per cent to Rs 7,337 crore by 2025. The women’s T-shirts market at Rs 797 crore is witnessing growth in tandem with all other casual wear categories and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 17.5 per cent to reach Rs 3,999 crore by 2025.

WOMEN’S KNITWEAR MARKET ON THE RISE

While earlier a women’s wardrobe consisted of formal shirts, trousers, saris, salwar kameez, etc. The key purchase parameters considered while buying these items were their basic function, comfort, and price. However, with increasing exposure to international fashion, the Indian women today want more than just need-based clothing. In fact, with deeper penetration of media and internet along with an increased awareness about global fashion trends, modern Indian women are opting smart, fashionable casual wear for everyday dressing. A young woman in a city like Raipur or Nasik or Bhubaneswar also has the latest updates about the global fashion brands. Moreover with more women joining the workforce, it is becoming more pertinent for them to look for smart , casual and trendy dressing.

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 Women tops and shirts market is pegged at Rs 1,979 crore  Expected to grow at a CAGR of 14 per cent to Rs 7,337 crore by 2025  Women’s T-shirts market is worth Rs 797 crore  Is witnessing growth in tandem with all other casual wear categories  Expected to grow at a CAGR of 17.5 per cent to reach Rs 3,999 crore by 2025  Popularity of women’s tees growing  Both branded and non branded players flourishing “Knitwear portfolio is strong in women’s wear segment because it is accepted both among the youth and upper age groups. There is a big share of women’s T-shirt, and demand is increasing,” say Guneet Singh & Japneet Singh, Directors, Juelle. On similar lines, Latin Quarters brand team inform, “Knitwear makes up a good chunk of our collection. We are not much into T-shirts.”

And Sudarshan Jain, MD, Oner adds, “It’s a huge market because of the comfort and price. It’s growing directly in proportion to the growing young population and economy and acceptance of western dressing in smaller towns and cities.” Having said that Jain feels it’s the lack of innovation in product because of price point

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WOMEN’S KNITS

Guneet Singh & Japneet Singh Directors, Juelle “Knitwear portfolio is strong in women’s wear segment because it is accepted both among the youth and upper age groups. There is a big share of women’s T-shirt, and demand is increasing.”

consumption is more in demand is the school and college going crowd, who prefer casual, relaxed and comfortable clothing for day to day wear. In higher age groups, women prefer tunics, dresses/kurtis, which are more in sync with Indian style of dressing. Similarly, for Latin Quarters and Oner too, the demand for T-shirts among women is younger age group. “If we look at factors like brand, good quality garment and great finish and a sense of international fashion, then customer would easily understand and spend above stated amount,” believes Latin Quarters’ brand team. Jain adds these days higher price tags are also accepted. Lots of value addition in terms of digital printing, embroideries, quality fabrics in superior blends, add to the premium look of a T-shirt. In the end, it all depends on the market segment a brand is catering to.

BRANDED VS. NON-BRANDED

Super premium brands are more popular among the upper class whereas the regular middle class prefers casual fast fashion concepts. “Seeing the vast middle class, demand for moderately priced branded tees

Globally every brand is keeping a section for T-shirts in its women’s collection. If one does not find anything of choice, they don’t mind picking up a colorful T-shirt, which goes with every trouser or jeans for every occasion. With the advent of ideas from international designers, domestic industry is flooded with fashionable knitted apparels. Jain points out, branded knits are doing well but they have limited variety because they need to take care of the product mix. There is no knitwear specific women’s wear brand.

STYLES AND TRENDS IN WOMEN’S T-SHIRTS

Colorful polo t-shirts with collar are in style which can be tucked in. It gives a corporate look. In casual category, neon’s with digital prints, Swarovski, and sublimations are in demand. Crochet/brasso/net concepts are also selling well this season. Embroidery concepts are selling too. Printed, animated, crop tops are the recent added styles. Similarly for Oner, printed and soft feel fabrics are popular.

FUTURE PROSPECTS

The future T-shirt segment in India is bright as most women are moving from ethnic wear to western wear. With growing awareness about international fashion and influence of social media, the youth is demanding more funky and casual T-shirt concepts. Despite being strong in wovens, the knitwear industry in India is on a double-digit growth. The industry is gearing up for bigger play in future. The Indian knitwear industry has seen strong growth in the past few years and hopefully would continue to ride high.

Sudarshan Jain, MD, Oner

that the segment is not able to catch up like other garment segments. Local brands and retailers are not ready to experiment with designs and have mentally capped the price point of T-shirt. Brands should make the product exciting and appealing. For Singh, the age group where T-shirt

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is increasing,” says Singh. Agrees Jain, “Super-premium brands have a growing market but in a limited way. Women are more interested in designs and variety rather than a premium brand. Moreover, wearing habit is also different. They change their wardrobe faster than men, so economy factor is also key to buying.”

“Super-premium brands have a growing market but in a limited way. Women are more interested in designs and variety rather than a premium brand. Moreover, wearing habit is also different. They change their wardrobe faster than men, so economy factor is also key to buying.”

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46 ORGANIC KNITS New brands, awareness surges demand for green tees With growing awareness, Indian consumers are willing to pay extra for organic products today. Realising the market potential, many new brands have entered the fray. Going forward, innovations will hold the key for future growth; write Piasi Sinha and Ajay Goswami

onsumers across the world are now aware about the impact of harmful chemicals both on human body and on environment. Sustainability has become the buzzword today. Hence, organic is fast becoming a natural choice. In everyday fashion, organic textiles are gaining prominence across markets. While in global fashion it is already becoming a phenomenon, India is still taking baby steps towards it. Organic cotton farming is much cleaner than conventional farming of the crop. There is no use of pesticides and synthetic fertilisers. “Organic farming saves farmers’ families from carcinogenic pesticides. Moreover, farmers can save the seeds after harvest. So, unlike GM seeds, they don’t have to buy them every season. Furthermore, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) takes care of hazardous chemicals in dyes/ chemicals as well as processed textiles. Therefore, the products are safe for skin. The wastewater is treated before being discharged. Social issues like child labor, bonded labor, gender discrimination, etc, are taken care of,” explains Sumit Gupta, Deputy Director Standards Development & Quality Assurance, Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS).

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 There is a growing awareness about organic products in India  India is the largest exporter of organic textiles  Organic brands are witnessing almost 80 per cent sales in metros; 20 per cent in Tier II cities  Organic knits are more in demand in kids’ wear  Effective storytelling by brands and retailers is important to boost demand Organic is an added advantage as it reduces the eco footprint of the product. It is important to understand that GOTS label includes environment and social compliance, besides using minimum 70 per cent organic fibers. Therefore, customers can be sure that the products are safe for skin, while workers have received fair remuneration and safe working conditions.

INNOVATIONS WITH ORGANIC FIBERS

India is the largest exporter of organic textiles. What’s more, India is also the country with the highest number of GOTS certified facilities the process flow includes sourcing of organic cotton directly from seed

to the farmer and goes all the way to the end product where it is certified by GOTS. GOTS accepts organic fibers that are certified to organic production (farming) standards like NPOP in India. This includes natural fibers like cotton, silk, wool, linen and so on. “Many innovations are happening with new kind of fibers/fabrics like aloe-Vera, lotus, banana, pineapple etc. However, one has to be careful with organic claims with these kinds of fibers/fabrics and must ask for valid ‘Transaction Certificates’.” adds Gupta.

NEW GEN BRANDS MAKING A MARK

“With growing consciousness about organic textiles and clothing, more brands are

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ORGANIC KNITS

Sumit Gupta,

Deputy Director - Standards Development & Quality Assurance, Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) “The response from retail is encouraging. Brands still have to invest in design, quality and trends, as usual. T shirts category is growing rapidly in India, and significant demand is from kids’ wear segment as young parents are sensitive towards the safety of their clothing. In T-shirts, baby wear and kids’ wear are the most promising right now.

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entering this space. We are optimistic about the future,” says Apurva Kothari, Founder of No Nasties. Besides high growth in exports, domestic market for organic textile and brands is also set to grow in coming years. As per a GPNI survey, almost 21 per cent Indian consumers are aware about ‘organic, recycled’ textiles and are willing to spend more on organic fashion. “They are beginning to understand it more and more as there is media coverage and a number of products on offer. Although cost is a factor but the Indian consumer has enough purchasing power now and costs should not be a huge issue for the middle and upper classes,” Kothari opines. To cater to growing export and domestic market, brands are implementing strict quality control measures along with innovations in design and technology. “We only make organic and fair trade clothing and it’s not been that difficult for us, as we don’t have lofty plans. We are happy being a small niche brand,” Kothari observes. “Organic means: No genetically modified seeds; no carcinogenic pesticides; no toxic dyes; no farmer suicides. That’s what our brand is all about,” Kothari says. No Nasties is among the largest exporter of organic knits. ‘Do You Speak Green?’, is another well known brand in this category which boasts of its quality and variety. “Organic cotton tees are made without the use of toxic pesticides and fertilisers or genetically engineered seeds and has a low impact

on the environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilisers, build biologically diverse agriculture and promote balance of ecosystems,” explains Shishir Goenka,

Apurva Kothari, Founder, No Nasties “They (consumers) are beginning to understand it more and more as there is media coverage and a number of products on offer. Although cost is a factor, but the Indian consumer has enough purchasing power now and costs should not be a huge issue for the middle & upper classes.”

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48 ORGANIC KNITS

Shishir Goenka, Founder, Do U Speak Green? “Organic cotton tees are made without the use of toxic pesticides and fertilisers or genetically engineered seeds and has a low impact on the environment. Organic production systems replenish and maintain soil fertility, reduce the use of toxic and persistent pesticides and fertilisers, build biologically diverse agriculture and promote balance of ecosystems.”

any other fashion house believes in offering best quality fashion clothing for all.” She goes on to say “The market is growing and people have huge respect for ethical brands. If price points are not high, and products are trendy, people are willing to buy and continue buying organic products irrespective of their beliefs. As compared to a normal cotton T-shirt, an organic T-shirt has a soft feel, is easier on the environment and is better for baby’s skin. The organic concept has extended to almost all fabrics. Chiffon, silk, rayon, crepe, anything is possible. Organic is a route each brand has to take sooner or later. It will be like a certification required to set up a brand. So the future is organic.”

FUTURE PROSPECTS

Apart from a promising export market, the domestic retail, the market for organic fashion

Director, Do You Speak Green? RCM a newbie in this space is also witnessing growing online demand for organic fashion and plans to spread awareness about the category more aggressively. “Indian consumer understands organic food now for which they are already willing to pay extra. Our motive is to educate the Indian consumer about organic clothing as well. The premium is not that much that the consumer won’t pay. Moreover, our products are not just organic but also fashionable at the same time. Hence, the consumer should not have a problem at all,” points out Rajat Jaipuria, Managing Director, RCM. The one season old brand is organic, fairtrade certified and limited to the fabrics only. “This in itself is challenging because we are in a space where the conventional garment maker can come up with a lot of varieties and play with fabrics but we limit ourselves. On the flip side, we can get organic fabric which the conventional garment maker cannot. Hence, it becomes our strength and with the help of the certification the end consumer responds well to organic,” adds Jaipuria. Niharika Verma, Director, Bonorganik another organics brand says, “Being ethical is the need of the hour and Bonorganik, like

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Niharika Verma, Director, Bonorganik “The market is growing and people have huge respect for ethical brands. If price points are not high, and products are trendy, people are willing to buy and continue buying organic products irrespective of their beliefs. The organic concept has extended to almost all fabrics. Chiffon, silk, rayon, crepe, anything is possible.”

Rajat Jaipuria, Managing Director, RCM “Currently, organic clothing is a huge hit in the West, which is why we feel the segment will come up well in India too. A lot of brands are doing organic lines. The future is bright for organic clothing.” looks positive. However, brands still have to bring in more variation and innovations to cater to the discerning customer. “The response from retail is encouraging. Brands still need to invest in design, quality and trends, as usual. T shirts category is growing rapidly in India, and significant demand is from kids’ wear segment as young parents are sensitive towards the safety of their clothing. In T-shirts, baby wear and kids’ wear are the most promising right now. Buying GOTS certified organic means the product has a clean footprint for both environment and social domains. This means higher consumer satisfaction. While the product is safe for the consumer, it also comes from a cleaner process chain.” adds Gupta. Jaipuria adds, “Currently, organic clothing is a huge hit in the West, which is why we feel the segment will come up well in India too. A lot of brands are doing organic lines. The future is bright for organic clothing.” With increasing disposable income among the Indian middle class and growing in awareness about sustainability, the organic textiles market in India is set to touch higher levels. However, Gupta feels effective storytelling by brands and retailers are important to send across the right message. “In India, lack of information about certifications and eco-labels for organic is an issue. Therefore, we see several self-claims in the field of organic and sustainability.” adds Gupta. Currently, organic brands are witnessing almost 80 per cent sales in metros and 20 per cent in Tier II cities.

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(+91 98761 18825 / +91 75290 31000) (+91 70273 33702)

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52 covery story Status Quo ‘We plan to offer complete wardrobe solutions in future’

imed at the youth and people young at heart, Status Quo has made a mark with its huge range of trendy apparels. With a double digit growth in the last five years, the brand gained stream with its strong licensing partnerships. Going forward it’s looking to offer customers complete wardrobe solutions. Bobby Arora, Director, Status Quo speaks about the brands evolution over the years and the way forward. Tell us about the brand. Launched in 1998, Status Quo aims at offering a whole range of impressive and vibrant clothes for the youth. Targeting youngsters between 16 to 35 years and people who are young at heart, we offer a complete range of fashion wear. With modern designs, the brand helps youngsters stand out with its unique, exciting designs and consistent quality. The product portfolio includes: shirts, waist coats, shrugs, blazers, T-shirts, shorts, joggers, trousers, denims, sweat shirts, sweaters and jackets. Our production capacity is 2.5 million pieces per annum. Every year, we come up with two collections, spring/summer and autumn/winter. Each season has a theme for example, travel, music, animal love etc. The current collection comprises sports, camouflage, Game of Thrones and RCB lifestyle lines.

 Launched in 1998  Aimed at youngsters 16 to 35 years and people young at heart  Production capacity is 2.5 million pieces per annum  Two collections, spring/summer and autumn/winter every year  Is the official licensee for Game of Thrones  Available through 1,200 multi brand stores across the country  Aims to be complete wardrobe solution brand by 2020

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covery story “Targeting youngsters between 16 to 35 years of age and people who are young at heart, we offer complete range of fashion wear. With modern designs, the brand helps youngsters stand out with its unique, exciting

Bobby Arora Managing Director What are your various licensing ventures?

Status Quo is the official licensee for Game of Thrones and will launch the collection in spring/summer 2018. Also, the brand has partnered Royal Challengers Bangalore (RCB) for their fashion collection. The Status Quo RCB collection is a line of fashionable graphic tees in bold colors, symbolising the true spirit of some of the top RCB players.

What is the ratio of fashion versus basic knits your collections? Overall the ratio of fashion versus basic knits is in the ratio of 65:35. But for us, it’s 55:45. The fashion aspect in knits category has made the business more interesting as a brand, we can explore new horizons.

Which fits are popular in T-shirts? What are the latest styles and trends in T-shirts? Regular and slim fits are popular in T-shirts. As for styles, creative slogan typography is a dominant design in 2018. Color pigments are pulled, stretched, pixilated and distorted. Multi coloured polos, cut and sews are in along with big check in polos. Similarly, camouflage and polka dot is coming back as a new concept. As for neck styles, for us, the strongest is the round neck, followed by polo

“The brand has been growing steadily at a CAGR of 25 per cent in the last five years. We plan to offer complete wardrobe solutions in future. We are also looking at stronger brand collaborations and taking it to the next level.”

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designs and consistent quality.” and crew neck. We have done a collection of T-shirts which can be worn in two and four ways.

What are the most popular fabrics in basic and fashion knits? In basic knits, the most common fabric is cotton jersey, cotton Lycra, pique and cotton interlock. In fashion knits, the fabrics used are Griddle, Scuba, Tencel and Modal. Pique and jersey knit mercerised T-shirts are in trend these days. In 25 to 30 per cent of our collection, we have used value added fibers like Lycra, Tencel and Modal.

Tell us about the new collections. Dark and moody tropical jungle inspired Tshirt prints are strong feature in 2018 collections. Digital and DIY collages emerge as a strong T-shirt trend in 2018, collating a mismatch of imagery for a surreal playful aesthetic. In our new collection, we have played with monochromatic and punchy colors, with vintage sepia tones.

What is your opinion on e-tailing and its future? Online business has evolved over the years. Today’s youth is more tech savvy and enjoys gadgets. E-commerce definitely has a great future. We are developing strategies for effectively promoting our brand digitally and will continue to work for customers’ needs in a changing digital landscape.

What is your vision for the brand for 2020?

The Indian apparel sector is expected to grow at a CAGR of 13 per cent and touch approximately $124 billion by 2020. Aspirations and ground realities are what it takes to succeed. Global brands with deep pockets are making a beeline for India due to stable economy. Status Quo aims to be a complete wardrobe solution brand by 2020.

“Online business has evolved over the years. Today’s youth is more tech savvy and enjoys gadgets. E-commerce definitely has a great future. We are developing strategies for effectively promoting our brand digitally and will continue to work for customers’ needs in a changing digital landscape.”

What are your growth expectations from the forthcoming season? The brand has been growing steadily at a CAGR of 25 per cent in the last five years. We plan to offer complete wardrobe solutions in future. We are also looking at stronger brand collaborations and taking it to the next level.

Tell us about your retail presence. The brand is available through 1,200 multi brand stores across the country and has a presence across all large format stores like Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Lulu and Central with 160 touch points. Status Quo also retails online through Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra, Jabong, Snapdeal, Tata Cliq, and Paytm besides its own website www.statusquo.in. We are aggressively looking at expansion of shop-in-shops at MBOs. We are also looking at deep penetration in Bihar, Jharkhand, Uttarakhand, Kerala, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir. From 10 shop-in-shops, we are looking at 75 shop-in-shops by the end of the year. We also plan EBO expansion this year.

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56 COMPANY UPDATE

Duke: The spirit of New Zealand

uke’s spring/summer ’18 collection for men and women has been inspired by the fashion culture of New Zealand.

The line up has T-shirts, designer tops, shirts, denims, trousers, lowers, loungewear, capris, bermudas and footwear that channel the classic New Zealand vibe. The whole collection is very stylish and projects the cool factor. It has superb ﬁts, vibrant colors, a variety of fabrics and interesting patterns. There are button up shirts in cotton or poly cotton fabrics in breezy tones that set the mood for those who love to go casual. Teens and fashionistas who love to go minimalistic in their fashion statement can have their ﬁll of tank tops, graphic printed T-shirts and shorts in varied tones. Keeping in mind Indian climatic conditions, and the need to keep freshness intact, the clothes have been treated with special sweat absorbent technology making one feel fresh and active all through the day.

lengths, round necks, collars etc.

The collection boasts of some very exciting color combinations, designs in stripes, prints, embroidery, patch work, short

Duke is a value for money brand. It provides international designs and styles at reasonable prices. Duke has a marketing

network comprising over 4000 multi brand outlets and over 360 exclusive stores across major cities in India. The products are also placed at big chain stores and on online shopping portals.

Fifty Degree appoints Gaurav Chopra as brand ambassador

ifty Degree, the Indian arm of leading apparel exporter V3 Exports, has made TV actor and youth icon Gaurav Gupta as its brand ambassador.

The actor will represent Fifty Degree India through its integrated marketing communications. “Being associated with Fifty Degree is wonderful. V3 Exports has grown signiﬁcantly in the past few years and I am excited to be part of launch of their Indian retail arm. I am excited to be chosen as their brand ambassador and believe my fans would like me in this new role,” said Chopra. “We are thrilled about the possibilities that will open up with our partnership with Gaurav Chopra in India. He mirrors the values of versatility, perfection that we steadfastly follow at Fifty Degree. This new association will enable us to explore newer avenues to reach our customers,” said Vinay Mehra, Founder and MD, Fifty Degree.

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57 BRAND LEADERS

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BRAND LEADERS

CLASSIC POLO

Trendy polos with curated fits, patterns, colours and washes The Brand

Usha Periasamy, Director-Operations & Brand

Classic Polo offers trendy polo T-shirts, shirts, trousers, shorts in quality fabrics curated with different fits, patterns, prints, dyes and wash treatments. T-shirts are mercerized, combed, 100 per cent cotton and linen fabrics. The brand has used weaves like honey comb, jacquard, injected slub, spaced dyes, fabric dyes like indigos, and silicon, enzyme, golf ball and peached washes. Styling is with value added trims.

T-shirt Market

Apparel brands whose core strength was only woven are launching T-shirts in a big way. The market size is around Rs 7,000

to Rs 10,000 crores and is growing at 10 to 12 per cent year on year for the past twothree years. It is a promising category as it complements denim, which is aggressively scaling up. The T-shirt market is big in metros while Tier II and III are equally growing in quantity but price range preference varies with market. In metros competition is high in the organised sector. In non-metros, regional brands fare better as they offer price advantage. But Tier II and III have geared up and are contributing to growth of late. T-shirt prices range from Rs 199 to Rs 4,999. Price categories are economy, mid segment, mid premium, premium, high premium and luxury. â&#x20AC;&#x153;But the premium

T-shirt segment is almost nil. T-shirts cannot be priced beyond a limit. The ideal premium price is between Rs 1,999 to Rs 2,999. Even international brands are cautious when it comes to pricing.â&#x20AC;? Licensing is futuristic and will contribute to bringing in a wide variety of styles and designs into the country leading to category expansion. Licensing adds value to the brand beyond doubt based.

Retail Network

Classic Polo is available in 115 exclusive brand outlets, 450 large format and 5000 multi brand outlets. The brand is keen on expanding in Tier II and III cities and expects to add 20 to 30 stores next year. The plan is to open 15 or 20 stores in and around Chennai, Mumbai and Kolkata.

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59 BRAND LEADERS MONTE CARLO

Ultra chic, suave and trendy styles The Brand

Rishabh Oswal, President

Monte Carlo caters to men, women and tweens with a huge collection of shirts, tops, T-shirts, tunics, shorts, jeans, trousers, dresses, tracksuits and more. Women’s western wear include: crop tops, shorts, shrugs, denim dresses, linen tops and more. Formal wear includes tops and shirts in millennial shades that can be easily paired with pencil skirts and trousers. The fusion wear range comprises tunics, leggings, etc. The range for men features varied options in formal and casual wear including T-shirts, shirts, trousers, linen shirts, lowers, tracksuits and bermudas.

T-shirt trends

The brand’s trends and styles for the season include: polo T-shirts in striped, microprint, patchwork patterns. Round neck tees with slogans, tropical prints, various color washes, graphic tees. The color palette is divided into two: One is a strong, vivid palette that helps create effervescent outfits; the other has pastel hues for a subtle look. For Monte Carlo the ratio of fashion and basic knits is 30:70. In basic knits, the brand uses jersey, pique fabrics and in fashion knits interlocked and mercerised fabrics are used. All three new styles -- polo, round and crew-- have huge demand. Polo remains a preference among the stylish set and those who prefer smart casuals while round and crew neck are a choice of youngsters (college goers) who like laid back, easy dressing.

New Collection

Monte Carlo’s spring/summer 2018 collection emphasises on ultra chic, suave and trendy pieces. The collection is in line with international fashion trends and is set to dominate the industry. The range features fresh, bold colors and unconventional silhouettes. Men’s range have a vibrant color palette. Women’s collection has dramatic silhouettes in terms of tops, where a lot of ruffle has been done. A huge range of cold shoulder tops have been included. Apart from this the brand innovates in knit structures, chemical treatments and experimentation with the color palette. To take the street-style look a notch higher, authentic graphics are utilised alongside unique embroidery, dramatic sleeves and colour washes. The brand has played with prints, washes and bold colors to add vibrancy to the men’s wardrobe.

Retail Strategy

Monte Carlo is available through more than 250 exclusive brand outlets, over 2,000 multi brand outlets in India and abroad, and large format stores like Lifestyle, Pantaloons, Central etc. The brand has an online website and is available on other leading e-commerce portals.

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5/3/2018 6:15:47 PM

BRAND LEADERS

DUKE FASHIONS

Stylish, cool and vibrant collection The Brand

Duke is expanding in categories like active wear, thermal wear, winter wear and accessories like footwear. Expansion will create a centralised, multi-product engine for wholesale and retail distribution, supporting Duke’s long-term business growth in India.

New Collection Kuntal Raj Jain, Director

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Duke’s summer line-up has T-shirts, designer tops, shirts, denims, trousers, lowers, loungewear, capris, bermudas and footwear. The collection is stylish and projects a cool factor. The collection for both men and women comes in various styles having superb fits, vibrant colors, a variety of fabrics and interesting patterns. There are button up shirts in cotton or poly cotton fabrics in breezy tones that sets the mood for those who love to go casual. Teens and fashionistas have tank tops, graphic printed T-shirts and shorts in varied tones. The collection boasts of some exciting color combinations, designs in stripes, prints, embroidery, patch work, short lengths, round necks, collars etc. Keeping in mind Indian climatic conditions, the clothes have been treated with special sweat absorbent technology thus making one feel fresh and active all

through the day.

Active Wear Market in India

“Over the past few years, India has rapidly caught up with wider global fitness trend. Rising incomes and discretionary expenditure in urban India have allowed people to focus increasingly on health and wellness. Running, cycling and team sports are among India’s fastest trending exercises. There is growing demand for active wear among both men and women but the men’s category is showing higher growth. Big brands are focusing on active wear and its different components. With rising demand for active wear in today’s world, this category will be growing at a high rate in coming years.”

Retail Presence

Duke is present in 4,000 multi brand outlets and 360 exclusive stores. It is in chain stores like Central, Reliance Trends, Reliance Market, Arvind Retail, Metro, Aditya Birla Retail, Hyper City, Brand Factory, etc. It is online on Myntra, Snapdeal, Jabong, Flipkart and Amazon. The brand targets rural markets because there is a huge potential in these areas. It has already covered entire towns and cities. In its own online shopping portal Duke offers free delivery and online payment support. It also offers cash on delivery services.

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t-shirts, jackets, sweaters, sweatshirts, shirts, trousers, denims, lowers, bermudas, value packs, thermals, footwear |

dukeindia.com

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BRAND LEADERS

BEING HUMAN

Casual luxury the theme this season The Brand

The brand was launched five years back by Salman Khan. It has seen good growth every season. The brand rides on casual luxury as the theme for this season. This is a mix of comfort and style in equal measure. The garments are pre laundered to achieve that soft handle. This season, the brand has introduced a special line of fashion vests which are perfect for summer/beach style.

Saurabh Singh, Head Designer- Menswear

Season’s Trends

For spring, the brand has a rich colour palette of deep hues like raspberry, grape, beet red, with highlights in fluorescent. For summer, the palette is soothing pastels and multiple tones of indigo from deep to completely bleached ones. The basic fit continues to dominate but there are lots of fashion fits making way into menswear like the baggy boxy fit with dropped shoulders which can be in either cropped length or in longline versions. Longline fits are now coming in asymmetrical hemlines.

Fashion vs Basic Knits

For Being Human, the ratio is 20 per cent basics, 20 per cent mid fashion and 20 per cetnt high fashion/directional styles. Singh says, “Since we are a fashion brand we enjoy making new designs every season

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and keeping pace with constantly changing trends. It’s important to be flexible.” As for fabrics, surface textures have become important. Double face fabrics are also in trend. Being Human’s 40 to 50 per cent of the collection is in blended fabrics. “Most fabrics used for basics are single jerseys either in 100 per cent cotton or blends. Fashion styles can be 100 per cent cotton or different blends like Tencel, Modal or linen etc. Mercerised T-shirts work mostly for premium formal wear brands.” Singh says, crew neck accounts for the majority of T-shirt market due as anyone of any age, style, size etc, can easily wear it and it’s available in maximum number of design options. Polos are second. They work well for a smart casual look. Apart from these there are other neck options like V-neck or scoop neck which anyway are variations of round neck.”

Retail Footprint

Being Human is present across the length and breadth of the country covering every major city. It has 61 exclusive brand outlets. In terms of international presence, the brand is in Mauritius, France, Nepal, Middle East and Fiji. The plan is to open 40 or 50 stores in the next two or three years.

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KH-313AJL

34th

, AHMEDABAD

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BRAND LEADERS

NUMERO UNO

A curated collection for this season The Brand

Nivida Kohli, Design Manager

Numero Uno uses cotton rich solid knits in varying GSMs from mid to heavy in core basics. For casuals, it uses fabrics that give a textured, marled, speckled or slubby look along with a whole lot of prints with updated finish on fabrics. The soul gratifying collection has fabrics that represent the roots of the brand. Indigo, deep blue and colours allow experimental industry laundry processes. Borro prints and handcrafted techniques inspire mechanically made fabrics that result in fashionable durable and comfortable products. In the active wear segment futuristic fabrics with performance characteristics are in use. Realising the need for crossover products and hybrid silhouettes as per changing lifestyle needs, Numero Uno has carefully curated the collections for this season. There are smart casuals, fashion casuals and classics that are durable and transseasonal. Numero Uno is exploring more ethical and eco products, the active wear segment and wearable technology. The aim is to grow by10 to 15 per cent annually across all categories.

New Collections

The brand’s line up for the season is an expression of oneself, celebrating the ‘Real You’. Day wear casuals are inspired by Mediterranean coastlines soaking in the mariner mood. The holiday collection Sunset Chameleon is wrapped around tropical skies in sun bleached colors. The flora and humid heat of tropical islands inspire camoflague and floral prints that are textural and tonal

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for round necks and polos. Detailed embroideries and embellishments create a luxurious dreamy mood in girls’ tops. There is a line interlaced with multiplicity of craft and culture influenced by Japan and India. With fitness becoming a part of everyday life, fashion has been fused with comfort and functionality for an off the mat athleisure look. Colors are primarily pastels and have a pigmented textural feel to them.

T-shirt Trends

“T-shirt that was once meant for college goers, weekend wear and indoor casuals has risen up to the Friday dress code and now has made its space in everyday work wear with a smart casual crisp look,” says Kohli. “Comfortable knit shirts, crisp polos and plain round necks are trending for this business casual look.” For Numero Uno, 30 to 40 per cent is core knits comprising wardrobe essential classics with updated looks that are trans-seasonal. The fibers used for value addition are Lycra, Tencel and Modal. As Kohli says “Only 10 per cent of our range contributes to such products. But these fibers have better performance, fluidity and improved handfeel, which adds value to the product and hence, we would like to offer more of these to our consumers in the near future.”

Retail Network

The brand has 200 plus stores across India. It has a deep penetration in the north and intends to expand its retail foot print in the eastern, western and southern regions.

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65 BRAND LEADERS T T LTD

Stress on value added finished garments The Brand

Sanjay K Jain, Managing Director

TT is a well established brand in the knitwear segment. The products range from hi-fashion outer wear to innerwear for men, women and children. Earlier, the company focused on backward integration with exposure in yarn/fabrics for intermediate supplies. Lately it has shifted focus to the value added finished garment segment. TT is confident of a 25 to 30 per cent growth. Constant development is being done to make new products, particularly in fashion so as to make a strong product basket. All the brand’s development in color palettes/ styles/ themes are focused on the youth.

Fashion vs Basic Knitwear

Fashion wear is directed mainly toward urban markets. Basic innerwear is directed toward all markets. The fashion segment is small compared to the basic segment in volume terms – less than 10 per cent is basic. But owing to higher value addition and much higher price points in fashion products, this difference is reduced considerably, though it

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still falls short of the basic segment in value terms.

Future Prospects of Knits

Jain says, there is a high percentage of unorganised space in the knitwear markets to be harnessed by organized brands – both for domestic sales as well as export. “Coupled with a high double digit growth rate, we have a promising future. And Ludhiana being a strong hub for knits, along with Tirupur and Kolkata, we can foresee a bright future for the industry in the near future. The total hosiery market in India is around Rs 25,000 crores, growing at 15 per cent a year, of which only around 30 per cent is in the organised sector. So, the potential is huge for organised players to harness.”

Retail Presence

TT’s retail presence is growing fast with the expansion of its distribution base. The brand is expanding its EBOs under the brand of TT Bazaar and hopes to reach 100 stores in the coming year. The brand is available in 30,000 MBOs which is growing every day.

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BRAND LEADERS

DOLLAR

Making innerwear fashionable and affordable The Brand

Vinod Kumar Gupta, Executive – Managing Director

Dollar is completely into knitwear. This season, it has introduced Bigboss, made with Egyptian cotton, which is the best long-staple cotton in the world with soft and agile entwines. Dollar launched J-Class almost three months back. Dollar has also introduced active wear and graphic tees for women, in trendy colors and patterns in leggings, glow shine waist bands for men’s briefs with abstract patterns, bold graphic printed tees for men, and stretchable and quick dry fabrics. The aim is to be a Rs 2,000 crore company by 2024 and the mission is to emerge as India’s best loved hosiery brand and make outerwear and innerwear fashionable yet affordable.

Innerwear Market

“Currently, the market for innerwear is about Rs 15,870 crores and expected to touch Rs 68,270 crores by 2024. It is one of high growth categories. The innerwear industry is quickly fusing innovation into clothing. With modern trends of consumers and product advancements, innerwear has turned from a conventionally utilitarian item to an essential fashion product. New shades like pop colours, glow shine waist bands,

abstract patterns and stretchable and quick dry fabrics have come into sleepwear, active wear, intimate wear, athleisure and maternity wear.”

Innerwear Retail

Numerous brands and private labels, are available in metros and mini metros through department stores and EBOs. Local, smaller players display a retail presence similar to that of active wear, with the availability of products for particular regions. Department stores enjoy a good footing with customers and local unorganised stores are most popular for this category. Although MBOs selling innerwear are considered most significant retail format, women are becoming comfortable walking into EBOs to purchase innerwear, mostly in major cities. In smaller cities, neighbourhood stores are preferred.

Fashion vs Basic Knitwear

Innerwear has graduated from being a functional product to a fashionable product. Several fashion brands are increasing their focus on this to grab a higher share of the wallet. There are dedicated shelves in stores for innerwear.

Brand Consciousness

It depends on the type of products consumers are purchasing. Purchase of products from traditional markets is continuing but with the evolution of online trends, the knitwear sector is getting a satisfactory response from online buyers. In case of innerwear, customers usually prefer to buy from brick-and-mortar outlets. They are more comfortable examining the product quality and size physically in this segment.

Retail presence

Dollar is present in 800 cities across 26 states in India through 80,000 MBOs. It also has own online retail platform. The brand is looking at opening exclusive outlets and large formats. Two per cent of Dollar’s sales come from e-tailing.

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67 BRAND LEADERS HRX

Clothes for active performance and lifestyle The Brand

Afsar Zaidi, CEO and Founder

HRX by Hrithik Roshan is a household name in active wear category in India. HRX has product categories across active performance and lifestyle. The spring/ summer line from further establishes the sports graphics language which is a key differentiator for the brand. The Jogger gets stylised in latest trends with side tape detailing, heat sealed zippers in melanges and monochromes. Nearly 65 per cent sales come from men segment and 35 per cent from women. In future, the contribution of women is expected to go up to 45 per cent. This year, HRX has a growth projection of 100 per cent. It expects footwear to continue driving growth and sales along with new categories like eyewear and innerwear.

Activewear vs Performance wear

Activewear is normally studio to street clothing. It is meant for exercise, live-in, move about. As the name suggests itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s meant to be worn during activity. Performance wear, however, is clothes particularly designed for sports. These have special in-built features or technology aids that help an athlete or player improve their performance in a sport.â&#x20AC;?

Activewear Industry

The fitness industry in India is a sunrise

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sector poised to grow at 30 per cent year on year. Indian activewear industry is estimated at a whopping Rs 8,500 crores. It is expected to continue growing at a CAGR 12 percent and touch expected sales of Rs 54,000 crores by 2020. With Indians becoming more health conscious and image sensitive, their pursuit of fitness has increased. The average age bracket for fitness enthusiasts is 20 to 35 years, which makes up the majority population of young Indian students and professionals. To be able to tap into this big chunk of the population, with disposable income and the affinity towards fitness, brands focus on activewear segment. While almost 50 per cent of Indians still prefer traditional ways of staying active, like walking and running, the rest are inclined to swimming, cycling and other sports and training. For targeting this kind of segmentation one needs to delve deeper into subcategories.

Retail Strategy

HRX is exclusively available on Myntra and has a presence across India in all Tier I and II cities. The plan is to expand into offline retail. The process of identification of the right retail partners for MBOs and availability of right locations for EBOs has begun. The target is the end of financial year 2018.

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BRAND LEADERS

TURTLE

Dobbies and prints on dobbies are major highlights The Brand

Narinder Kaur, Design Head

Turtle has a range of jacquards and a basket of engineered dobbies. Also included is a capsule collection of prints on two tone pique. The color pallet is pastel bright with ample beige, white and cream. T-shirt fits are silhouette, cut close to the body, and slim fit. For Turtle polos make up the biggest share.

New Styles

The major theme in T-shirts is ‘Men In Pink’, which celebrates the color pink for this summer. Dobbies and prints on dobbies are the major highlights. The Fuse collection has vibrant tones with prints and engineered dobbies. Mandarin collars, polo with stylised collars and printed graphics in crew necks are on the shelf. In crew neck, Turtle has played with the brand name and logo, like a stylised statement crew. The color palette

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for summer is soft and vibrant. From lemon to peach mint and aquas, Turtle has it all.

T-shirt Innovations

Innovations are different value addition in fabrics like Tencel, Modal and linen in knits apart from jacquards and indigo. Special technical finishes are also being introduced like anti bacterial. Mandarin collars in all forms and styles. Mercerized T-shirts are more in polo since it’s fine and superior in the higher price bracket. Fine dobbies and prints are being done on mercerised polos. Basic and fashion knits generally have difference in yarns. Fancy yarn and finishes are the order of the day. Mélange, neps, indigo, jaspe are the fancy bases which differentiate from the regular core products. Turtle also does surface ornamentation like print and washing.

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69 BRAND LEADERS MUSTANG

Synonymous with socks in India The Brand

Lubeina Shahpurwala, Partner

Mustang has a mixed range of products both basic value packs and a fashion line. Socks fall under the hosiery category. Hosiery primarily consists of T-shirts, innerwear and socks. The category is vast and socks were the smallest component till a few years ago. Even now, socks is less than 10 per cent of the entire hosiery/knitwear category. For spring/summer, Mustang has incorporate bright vibrant hues in its range. The new designs are bolder.

Evolution of Knitwear

Earlier, the knitwear industry was dominated by non-branded players. However, now, it is rapidly growing as more and more brands are entering this segment. At one time, the perception about knitwear was restricted to sweaters and other winter warmers. Knitwear as a segment is now manifold– from winter apparels like sweaters, neck warmers, socks, cardigans to dresses, skirts, crop tops, jumpers, shoes, oversized knitted beanie hats, head bands, etc. We

have witnessed an incredible surge in knitwear industry due to product and fiber innovations. Formal outerwear is also being manufactured in knitted fabrics, where comfort and fashion are the main factors in the design element. The same concept has filtered down to the accessory segment in knits as well. Socks have become more fashionable, comfortable and easily accessible.” Countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia, Sri Lanka and others have trade agreements with Europe. This makes it difficult for India to compete with them. Like us, these countries too have an increased market share in segments like women’s/ girls’ knitwear, men’s/boys’ cotton trousers, shorts, nightwear etc. Although we are optimistic about the future, we also foresee that it might be difficult to compete with global players. This is because Made-inIndia products are becoming expensive to manufacture due to various factors including the rupee appreciation against the dollar. Also, we as entrepreneurs need to give importance to skilling our workforce.

Retail Network

Mustang is in some 8,000 MBOs. It has a robust distribution network with 36 distributors present across India. The brand is looking at increasing its presence in all B and C territories and metros.

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BRAND LEADERS

LATIN QUARTERS

Mix of prints and pastels for fashionable women The Brand

Latin Quarters is positioned as a premium women’s western wear brand. It caters to upper-middle and elite women between 21 to 45 years with disposable income to spend and having an awareness of international fashion. Latin Quarters is not much into T-shirts as into knit wear. In the new line the brand has created admixes of prints and hues of pastels. Appliquéd with varied necklines and collars, the collection recreates contemporary styles and modern woman’s fashion. The range offers diversity through lace and X-ray fabrics with unblemished cuts, high-flying tones and canvas prints. Printed,

animated, crop tops are the recent styles in women’s T-shirts which the brand has done. “Though India is strong in wovens, the knitwear industry in India is on double digit growth. The industry is gearing up for bigger play in the Indian apparel industry. The Indian knitwear industry has witnessed strong growth in the last few years and will continue to do so. With the advent of ideas from international designers, the domestic industry is flooded with fashionable knitted apparels.

Retail Presence

Latin Quarters is in 19 EBOs and 200 MBOs. The plan is to reach 60 exclusive outlets and over 300 points of sales by next year. Future plans cover Tier II and III cities. In addition, the brand is exploring opportunities in the Middle East, Southeast Asia and African markets. Latin Quarters is with Myntra, Flipkart and Amazon and has its own e-commerce site.

CANTABIL

Simple yet sophisticated themes The Brand

Deepak Bansal, Director

Silhouettes and prints have been upgraded. Shirts have remastered collar shapes and cuts. Various fits of shirts has been included for example slim fit, regular fit, etc. Also, the brand is upgrading latest fits of trousers and denims. In women’s wear, latest silhouettes have been adapted. Formal shirts and kurtis, A-line, straight fits are the key shapes being focused on. Boat necks, keyholes, mandarin and Peter Pan collars, illusion necklines are the highlights of the collection. Contrast plackets, yoke lines, florals and checks break the monotony of the prints and patterns. High low concepts have been used in shirts, dresses and tunics.

T-shirt Segment

The segment is doing well particularly due to the weather and young India’s casual clothing preferences. A lower price band is advantageous. Anything above Rs 1500 is difficult to sell online. Maximum demand is from Tier II and III cities. Consumers are becoming aware of brands but the Indian consumer is not ready to buy super premium

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category T-shirts barring a select few. T-shirts have bright prospects in India because of the huge number of young people.

New Styles

The style statement for Cantabil is simple yet sophisticated. Simplicity in attitude and sophistication value addition. The brand researches and develops new collections every year. This year also there is a theme. Remastering the old and incorporating fashion elements is the ultimate theme which the collection portrays. Keeping fashion alive, Cantabil has incorporated historic inspirations in prints, weaves, and fabrics. Modernizing the silhouettes of the garments with latest cuts and shapes, the brand has enhanced the new collection by making it completely wearable and affordable.

Retail Presence

The brand has a strong retail presence in North India and doing good numbers, year on year growth is in double digits. Cantabil has aggressive expansion plans for Tier II and III cities of North India.

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BRAND LEADERS

NO NASTIES

Focus on organic cotton The Brand

No Nasties is a niche brand and does only organic and fair trade clothing. Organic T-shirts are for men, women and children. The brand works only with cotton. It has a children’s collection coming up and then an adults’ collection for summer and fall. “This season we expect to grow three fold.”

Organic T-shirts

Apurva Kothari, Founder

The organic clothing sector is growing with increased consumer consciousness and more brands entering the space. Organic T-shirts have no GMO seeds, no carninogenic pesticides, no toxic dyes. In other words, No Nasties. Cost is a factor, but the Indian consumer has enough purchasing power and this should not be a huge issue for the middle and upper classes.”

Retail presence

In India, No Nasties has one EBO and three MBOs. Internationally, it is in 18 MBOs. In India, 80 per cent of the brand’s sales are from metros and 20 per cent from Tier II cities.

BONORGANIK

The ethical brand The Brand

The new range has gabardine twills, cargo pockets, olive-drab hues camouflage prints, oaths, uniformity. Colors are down-to-earth like khaki, olive, and brown. The collection is a fusion of functional uniformity. “Being ethical is not our portfolio or sole strength. Being ethical is the need of the hour. We work like any other fashion house and being ethical is just an add on to our offering.”

Niharika Verma, Founder

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Organic T-shirts

“The market is growing and people have huge respect for ethical brands. If price points are not high, and products are trendy, people are willing to buy and continue buying organic products irrespective of their beliefs. As compared to a normal cotton T-shirt, an organic T-shirt has a soft feel, is easier on the environment and is better for baby’s skin. The organic concept has extended to almost all fabrics. Chiffon, silk, rayon, crepe, anything is possible. Organic

is a route each brand has to take sooner or later.”

Retail presence

Bonorganik is available only online. But it wants to be present in Tier II and III cities. It plans to be with major marketplaces and MBOs.

Fashion prospects

“The fashion and lifestyle industry in India is witnessing a surge, with strong drivers of growth and a host of other factors resulting in its progress. Pegged at $100 billion and growing at a CAGR of 8 to 10 per cent offline, the segment is projected to grow by 15 to 20 per cent over the next five years, from the current 4 per cent. India has a 450 million internet user base, which is expected to grow by 62 per cent to 729 million by 2020. The total number of online transactions was 200 million in 2017, which is expected to increase by 65 per cent by 2020. E-commerce is a key channel for fashion and the online fashion market is projected to grow 3.5 times by 2020.”

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74 BRAND LEADERS JUELLE

Street wear kind of chic fashion The Brand

Guneet Singh, Japneet Singh, Directors

Juelle will have new categories like lounge wear, light track suits, light fashion jackets, dresses and gowns. “This time we our trying to make our collection different from our regular collections. We are working on a more urban street wear kind of chic fashion in addition to the regular basic trends. We are working on new color trends and prints. The lightweight pre-winter stuff is in demand. It has been doing well for the last two years. Since winters are not heavy, lightweight or pre-winter stuff will be in demand. Shrugs and crop tops are expected to be in high demand. This year we have worked a lot on new embroidery concept in each category.”

New Styles

The brand has colorful polo T-shirts with collars which can be tucked in. This gives a corporate look. “In casual category, neons with digital prints, swarovskis and sublimations are in high demand. Crochet/ brasso/net concepts are also selling good in this season. Embroidery concept are selling very good this season.”

T-shirt Category

The average price of a women’s T-shirt is usually Rs 499 to Rs 799 but depending on the brand’s position it can go up to Rs 1,999. Though women won’t spend Rs 1,500 for

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a T-shirt for day to day casual wear, they may opt for a super premium brand when it comes to specific occasions or evening wear or party wear. Otherwise the economy range upto Rs 799 or Rs 899 is preferred for college, shopping or malls. The age group where T-shirt consumption is the highest is the school and college going crowd, which prefers casual, relaxed and comfortable clothing for day to day wear. When we move higher in the age group, women prefer tunics, dresses/kurtis which are more in synchronization with the Indian style of dressing. Future prospect of the T-shirt segment in India is bright as nowadays most women are moving from ethnic wear to western wear. With growing awareness about international fashion and the influence of social media, the youth is demanding more funky and casual T-shirt concepts. Super premium brands are more popular among the upper class whereas the regular middle class prefers casual fast fashion concepts. Seeing the vast size of the growing Indian middle class demand for moderately priced branded T- shirts is increasing.”

Retail Presence

Juelle is in 1,500 MBOs across India.

5/3/2018 11:34:44 PM

BRAND STORIES

TMO

‘Try to maintain best possible rates’ The Brand

Tushar Verma, Managing Director

TMO was launched eight years back and is a sister brand of Time Option which is one of the major players in the garment industry from Ludhiana. It deals in sweatshirts and track suits for men, women and kids as far as its winter collection is concerned. The brand’s summer collection comprises of t shirts and track suits for men and kids. “We have been quite successful in our first venture and since we needed to expand from production and retail front, it was not possible to manage multiple categories under one brand and that sees the genesis of another brand which is known as TMO now,” Tushar Verma, Managing Director, TMO.

Collection

We have been using a lot of fancy fabrics this time. Consumer today is more aware, wants fashion products

and makes comparisons with big brands while making a purchase and this makes us to push the envelope. Our products happen to be quality oriented and reasonably priced in order to make them affordable for the middle class which is our primary target audience. Best possible rates are what we try to maintain. We undertake an extensive and detailed research before we come out with our collection every time. Every possible channel whether it is fashion forecast, magazines, social media or abroad trips, is explored before any launch.

USP

We don’t compromise with quality at any rate. Utmost priority is given to rate and quality as this is what matters most. We care more for service than we do for selling. For us trade relations and understanding with our client is important and that helps us grow continuously in this competitive space. Extra care is given for raw material’s purchase because this side of business decides how the final product is going to be.

Retail

We are available in around 250 to 300 MBOs and retail chains. Online presence is in pipeline. In a year’s time, we are aiming to accomplish this also.

CONFIDENCE

‘We adopt latest trends’ New collections

Confidence adopts the latest international trends in fabrics in order to give a new look season after season.

Season’s prospects

Ankit Aggarwal, COO

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Last winter season was better than expectations, says Aggarwal. “So we expect to have good bookings for the season. A strong and neat product always makes its way. There is no major change in demand. All our product categories are moving ahead strongly. Nowadays fitness comes first for all age groups. So the market is doing exceedingly well. Also, the market is so competitive, so there is no major price change, but MRP of most winter products has increased due to the high GST rate slab. Which the end consumer has had to bear.”

5/3/2018 11:56:35 PM

76 BRAND STORIES TIME OPTION

‘Always ahead of time in fashion’ The Brand

Gaurav Likhi Director

Time option was basically started by Rajeev Verma and Shekhar Likhi. It is known as one of the prominent brands when it comes to Jackets. This is because the brand never saw any deviation from what it was meant for from the very beginning. “We are known for jackets because we have mastery over this segment and that keeps the brand running successfully in today times,” says Gaurav Likhi, Director, Time Option. Launched in 1992, the brand aims at providing best quality in economical prices in their entire range of jackets for men, women and kids. “We never felt the need to dive into other segments as is pretty common now a days owing to acceptance and appreciation that we have been receiving since the inception of the brand,” adds he.

Collection

We do fashion and basic jackets both. The larger share is made by fashion jackets as they are quite popular among youth. As far as basic jackets are concerned, we see a good demand for them as well coming from people aged 40 and above. So it is like we have an equal acceptance among youngsters and mature people. Time Option is now ready with its next collection of jackets with new tones, fabrics and designs. We are always ahead of time in fashion. This time we are going to introduce knit jackets, light

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weight jackets, and Parka jackets etc. New tones and fabrics are in. Tones of wine, olive and mustard are going to be in trend. Talking about fabrics, cotton is back in trend, cnp fabrics, nylon are in, structure memory and polyester are equally popular.

USP

Our brand provides an absolute royalty to consumers. Our products are at par with national and international brands in every respect leaving the pricing which is obviously far lesser. We have men’s jackets in the range of Rs 1990 to Rs 3999 and women’s jacket in the range of Rs 1595 to Rs 3499. Consumer’s perspective is changing fastly. She is more brand conscious and fashion oriented. Ludhiana is leading the winter market and it is a good sign for industry stakeholders and consumers alike.

Retail

We are well present thru with about 400 MBOs pan India. Besides, we are with retail chains like Globus. The brand is available with online portals such as Jabong, Flipkart and Amazon. The business is good from online and offline channels both. We are expanding continuously, adding more MBOs every year.

Brand philosophy

We are brand which never compromises on quality believes strongly in cost efficiency.

5/3/2018 11:56:37 PM

BRAND STORIES

CASHEWNUT

Global fashion with Indian sensibilities The Brand

Ridhima Miglani, Kashish Miglani Managing Partners

Cashewnut, launched in 2013, is completely into women’s wear segment. The brand was launched with Lisa Haydon. It strives to show the spunky and colorful side of a woman through clothes and add-ons. With both winter and summer collections, the product line includes sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, shrugs, lounge wear, swim wear and T- shirts. The designs include original prints with special attention to details and finishes. The collections are casual in nature, cool and classy in appearance and a mix of European and Indian ethos. The brand’s philosophy rests on the concept of the cashewnut, which signifies curves, which a young woman likes flaunting. So the brand provides her clothes that flow with her curves in the best possible way.

USP

“We have been supplying to big houses since 25 years and that experience has helped us gain acceptance in the market by introducing economical and quality-oriented products. We follow global fashion trends with a hint of Indian sensibilities.From the very beginning we have been giving good competition to brands already established in the market in a big way. We see market trends and play accordingly and that gives us an edge over others in the market.We aspire to bring a positive change in the

Sukhvinder Kaur, HR Head and Administrator

Retail Strategy

Cashewnut is present pan India with about 250 MBOs. It has its own website too. EBOs are being planned.

MONA LEAVES

‘Looking at expansion and consolidation’ The Brand

Women’s wear brand Mona Leaves, launched in 2007 mainly offers woollens. The brand’s forte is kurtis, though it has coats, pants, plazzos, leggings etc. “We are predominantly into woollens. But we use cotton and rayon fabrics also,” says Sukhvinder Kaur, HR Head and Administrator. The brand feels pride in the technique and methods they apply for manufacturing. “Our products are always fine and quality-oriented. It is simple, elegant but value for money. Our products are popular among office going and middle aged women. The price range is from Rs 790 and goes up to Rs 2190,” Kaur opines.

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dressing style of young women. Fashion is a lot more than what we wear today. The aim is to serve the middle class with high street fashion at reasonable price points and with quality parameters at par with global brands’.”

Future Plans

The brand is looking at diversification, expansion and consolidation. “Until now, we have been in mainly the Northern region but we are looking at big expansion in Southern part of the country,” she explains. The plan is to capture every part of the country. “We are constantly strengthening our distributor network, wholesalers and agents. Online marketplace is another area where we wish to grow,” Kaur observes. Though the brand is already available through its website and major platforms like Amajon, Trade India etc, they wish to ramp up efforts towards making these channels more growth-oriented.

5/3/2018 11:56:38 PM

Who’s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview)

Products Offered: Cardigans, Coats, Jackets, Sweat Shirts, Kurtis, Dresses & Tops

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DFU’s DESIRE KNITS 106

Company Name : SATYAM KNITWEAR REGD. Brand Name : SUNAYNA / ROZELLA Person Concerned : Mr. Pankaj Bharti - 9872027739 Address : 1019, Subhash Nagar, Street No. 1, Ludhiana (Punjab) e-mail : satyamknitwear@gmail.com

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Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : B.D.S. ENTERPRISES. Brand Name : ABSURD and PUNJABI HERITAGE. Contact person : ARASHDEEP SINGH BAWEJA (9814023779) KULPREET SINGH (9888888826) RANDHIR SINGH (8360152673) Address : 36, ajeet nagar, opposite best price, g.t. road - ludhiana to jalandhar, ludhiana. e.mail : bawejaak@gmail.com

ABSUR D Xpect the unXpected

Products Offered Mens and Womens T-shirts, Sweat Shirts, Track Suits and Lowers.

QUALITY PRODUCTS AT VERY REASONABLE PRICE.

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5/4/2018 12:22:41 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : Brand Name : Person Concerned : Address : Phone : e-mail :

GEMCO INTERNATIONAL GAVIO

Davinder Singh Mankoo - 09914922079 G.T. Road, Dhandari, Ludhiana - 141010 0161-2510679 / 2511879 Fax: 0161-2511879 dmankoo@yahoo.com

Products Offered: T-Shirts, Sweat Shirts, Track Suits & Jackets For Men

AUTUMN/WINTER 2018

T-SHIRT, SWEAT SHIRT, TRACK SHIRT For Trade Enquiries: Contact: M/s Gemco International Mob: 09914922079 E Mail: dmankoo@yahoo.com Mumbai Distributors & Retailers Enquiry Solicited

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5/4/2018 12:22:48 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview)

Company Name:

HIGH LINE APPARELS PVT. LTD Brand Name: VIEW EXCLUSIVE

Contact Person: Mr. Ravi Gupta Address: 11701/2, 2nd Floor, Sat Nagar, Karol Bagh, New Delhi - 110005 Tel: 011 - 25823411 e-mail: viewusa@rediffmail.com Products Offered: Blazers, Coat Pant, Waist Coat

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5/4/2018 12:22:50 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview)

Company Name

VEER UDYOG Brand Name

ROYAL EDWARD Contact Person Jasbir Rai Jain - 9814924218 Navratan Jain - 9814924217 Anand K. Jain (Prince) - 9814098217 Address New Anand Puri, Kali Sarak, Shiv Puri, G.T. Road, Ludhiana. e-mail veersuit@gmail.com

Products Offered:

Shirts, Coats, Suits, Sherwani, Jodhpuri, Indo Western & Casual Coats

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5/4/2018 12:22:53 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : SARJEEWAN KNITWEAR Brand Name : ONER Contact person : Mr. Sudershan Jain (09876326111) Mr. Ashok Jain (09915726111) Address : 138 Industrial Area-A, Ludhiana - 141007 Work : 276, Industrial Area-A. R. K. Road, Ludhiana - 141007

Product Offered: Ladies Cardigans, Tops, Pullovers, Jackets, Coats, Sweat Shirt & Track Suits

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Phone : 0161 - 4626111 4627111 Mobile : 08872926111 e.mail : info@oner.in ccare@oner.in oner@oner.in

5/4/2018 12:22:54 AM

Who’s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview)

Ladies Cardigans, Coats, Kurtis, Tops & Sleeveless. DFU’s DESIRE KNITS 105

Company Name : WOMAX ENTERPRISES Brand Name: WOMAX Contact Person : Mr. Vinod Goel (098150113890) Mr. Raghav Goel (09872813290) Address : B-34/11254, Gopal Nagar, Haibovval, Ludhiana Products Offered: Phone : 0161-2303439 Ladies Cardigans, Coats, Kurtis, e-mail : womaxenterprises@gmail.com Tops, Tunics, Leggings etc

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5/4/2018 12:22:56 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : SAARTHI APPAREL Brand Name : Cashewnut Contact Person : Ridhima & Kashish. Address : Jain Hosiery complex, Laddu colony, Noorwala road. Ludhiana Email : info@cashewnutstore.com Products Offered : Sweatshirts, Jackets, Loungewear, Gymwear .

2018 -19

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5/4/2018 12:22:57 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : Shree Ganesh International Brand Name : Time Option Person Concerned : Rajiv Verma 09814133372 Arwinder Likhi 09814800094 Gaurav Likhi 09878343498 Address & Details : 213/10, New Kundan Puri, Civil Lines, Ludhiana. Phone : 0161-2445558 E-mail : timeoption@hotmail.com

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Product Offered: Jackets for Mens, Ladies & Kids

5/4/2018 12:22:59 AM

Who’s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : GANPATI COTTON UDYOG Brand Name : TMO Person Concerned : Vipan Verma (Proprietor) Tushar Verma 09988882070 Address & Details : 213 /148, New Kundan Puri, Civil Lines, Ludhiana. Phone : 0161-2440675 / 2441362 E-mail : tmoknits@gmail.com

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Product Offered: Sweat Shirts, Track Suits & T-shirts for Men’s & Boy’s

5/4/2018 12:23:01 AM

Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Who in KNITS (Winter Preview) Company Name : TIMES APPARELS Brand Name : TMS Contact person : Gurmeet Singh +91 98724 40401 Harpreet Singh (Mktg.) +91 79732 60760 Address : Manna Singh Nagar, St. No. 4, Opp. Chand Cinema, Near Meera Packers, Ludhiana - 141 008 (Pb.) INDIA Phone : +91 161 5002712 E-mail: tmsapparels@yahoo.co.in

COATS & JACKETS FOR LADIES & MEN

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5/4/2018 12:23:03 AM

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5/4/2018 12:00:59 AM