Inside Fashion (Fabrics) Vol. 2 No.1

C O N T E N T S

Overview India fabric’ating success 14

Trends Spring-Summer 2017 20

Trends A/W 2017-18 24

Trends Milano Unica: Fabric Trends 26 Trends Spring/Summer 2018 28

Trends Fashion & Colour Forecast 30

Brand Leaders Mafatlal, Arvind, OWM, Mandhana 32

Trends Emerging Trends in Fabric 38

Trends Premium quality shirting fabrics 41

Denim Trends Denim Fabric Innovations 50

Denim Trends Denim Trends 52

Denim Trends Kingpins to launch new Denim 54

Denim Trends The top Denim fabric trends-Kingpins Amsterdam 55

Brand Leaders Bhaskar, Chiripal 56

Linen Fabric From high-end to mass appeal linen 58

Womens Wear A/W 2017-18 74

Review Heimtextil 78

Preview Inter textile Shanghai 79

Preview Tex-styles: One stop show 80

Who’s 83 Shivani Chawla Kamlesh Prajapti Dhansukh Rathod, Dinesh Poojary

Mumbai Office: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062 022 2875 5181, 2877 2282, 3001 4700 e-mail: dfuif@yahoo co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com

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Published and Edited by Sanjay Chawla at: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai 400 062

India fabric’ating success

Though hit hard by demonetisation, Indian textile industry and specially fabric manufacturers are slowly getting back to normalcy. While there are still many inherent challenges that hinder future growth prospects, yet with companies’ innovative streak, these shall be overcome sooner than later.

Strategies to face challenges

Unfazed by the challenging scenarios, country’s leading fabric manufacturers are taking crucial steps towards growth trajectory. Susheel Kaul, CEO, Arvind Mills highlights opportunities in tough times and how they have taken it in their strides.

“We have been continuously growing by 7-10 per cent per year. We are expanding geographically as well as production wise.

As the largest producer of cotton India has an advantage

With China vacuuming spaces, it is good time for India to establish its supremacy

To its advantage, India has a strong domestic market

GST is going to be the biggest deciding factor for textile industry

Innovation will help boost company bottomlines

Demonetisation has had its affect on sector but things will ease out

Made in India will boost segment

India has emerged a strong player globally in the fabric market. As a strong cotton producer it certainly has an edge. With constant innovation, India can boost its strength and go on to take the space vacated by China as a leader in global fabric market, write Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

Earlier, we were had a growth rate of 15-20 per cent but now owing to the focus on business optimisation, our growth rate is hovering in the range of 7-10 per cent. This does not mean that the growth has rate come down but this is happening because we have scaled down our operation a bit and the focus is more on consolidation and adding value to the supply chain.”

For Manish Mandhana, MD, Mandhana Industries, it’s all about offering customers something every time. He says that fabrics business has become competitive and matured over the years, “We keep innovating new products and launching branded stuff very frequently. It helps us to secure better margins. We do multiple fabrics, it is not like we focus only on cotton or polyester. Our base in terms of production and verities is large. Like last year, a focus was on modal and viscose. Then we have a lot of printed fabrics, solids and yarn dyed fabrics. The whole essence of our working is that we keep ourselves always updated with new

and value chain is another area to work, your supply chain efficiency and on time delivery etc matters a lot to stay ahead. One needs to find their niche and start dominating the market. In every kind of market either you are the leader or the second or third player. In school uniforms we are the leader, in white we are the leader, in prints, we may not be the leader but strongly placed, in denim too, we may not be the leader but placed highly in high end fashion. However, it is not that we don’t operate if we are not in leadership position, it is the whole basket of products that one follows, for example we are not very strong in yarn dyed but we are still doing it. We have all in house product, it depends what we want to make.”

For OWM Nahar, Fabrics Quest, the domestic market is yet to revive from the affects of demonetisation. After numerous turbulences in last two months, all are awaiting normalised cash flow in the market, which is definitely the deciding factor apart from normal fluctuation in demand-supply ratio.

Deshmukh goes on to say India is the largest producer of cotton in the world. Textile industry is a labour-intensive sector employing almost 25 million people. The figure speaks of the importance of textile sector in the county’s GDP. It helps in job creation but the industry has not been able to achieve the level that it should have ideally. Textile sector is under stress owing to bad

ideas and technologies and always aim for giving something new to our clients. It helps us beat competition,” he observes.

Indeed, the textile industry has been hit by economic slowdown and demonetisation more recently but it’s working hard to regain its pace once more. Pricing pressure also exist but manufactures say these can be handled by providing good quality product and fashion at par with international markets.

Mafatlal Industries MD and CEO Aniruddha Deshmukh feels the segment is crowded and there is a lot of competition, and one has to work hard on innovation “Then there is distribution channels, since we are into B2B and B2C both, we have to be aligned with brands and end consumers, supply

Aniruddha Deshmukh, MD & CEO, Mafatlal Industries

“The sector is in an advantageous position if government policies are framed accordingly. We have skilled labour, raw material in abundance, production cost is low compared to western countries but still we are doing a fraction of what has been done all around the globe in textile.”

labour policies, lack of export incentives for fabrics and deficiency of investment funds. In recent years, the industry has become a symbol of low returns, high competition and unexpected volatility. Stress redressal of stress is possible only if more textile parks and SEZs are established and fresh funds are pumped into the sector. “The sector is in an advantageous if government policies are framed accordingly. We have skilled labour, raw material in abundance, production cost

is low compared to western countries but still we are doing a fraction of what has been done all around the globe in textile.”

Moreover we also have tech competency as Deshmukh explains, “In manufacturing, we have large capacities in spinning but in weaving and finishing sector, we need to do more. Though we are the second largest in terms of textile when it comes to machinery, we are 13th or 14th. Textile machinery is an area where we need to work. We need to

shift our focus on skill development to attract more efficient talent.”

Kaul sees, labour policies, raw material prices variation, loans as some of the major challenges. Talking about fluctuations in cotton prices, Mandhana says, “There is no shortage of cotton. Speculations are resulting in price fluctuation, otherwise things are normal. Some correction has taken place but it does not affect individual companies. Whatever price differentiation

has been witnessed, we have passed it on to the consumer. Indeed, stability in prices promotes robustness in businesses while fluctuation causes disruption.”

Seemingly troubled by the discounting trend Mandhana says, “Consumption is still low retail is down, discounts are outrageous. These factors are influencing the market. There is certainly a pressure on margins. As far as the industry is concerned, 25 per cent of the total production is exported currently. Out of which 10 per cent goes for direct export of fabrics while another 15 per cent is contributed by export in the form of garments. Rest 75 per cent is consumed domestically.”

Government Policies and their Impact

As far as government policies are concerned, Deshmukh opines, “Since textile does not come under any taxation, the only uncertainty is GST as of now and its applicability on the sector. Everything else is almost certain textile is an essential sector of the economy and certainly has to grow. What is needed is how we can generate more employment and contribute to the growth of the sector.”

Nahar feels the entire industry is suffering due to demonetisation. All this while domestic market was dependent on cash and the industry got affected. Hopefully, situation will improve in some time. Kaul however, doesn’t see much effect of demonetisation, “Indeed some negative impact is there.

The reason why we have not been affected much is because we are balanced in our export and domestic business. We get a fair amount of business from exports and it’s in the 60:40 ratio for export and domestic business. Export is growing well. With Spring/Summer season ahead, we are seeing a fair growth in business. Global brands are connected with us and doing well.”

Indeed a number of initiatives have been taken for the sector, especially the garment sector. States are being allotted dedicated textile parks. Textile policies to encourage growth have been framed, it is well understood that the sector is the second largest employment generator and the government is doing enough. Deshmukh feels neighbouring countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam have big scale setups, they are associated with overseas companies, and doing a good job, but the fact is that they don’t have internal demand and it goes to our advantage. “We have an equal opportunity in export and domestic market, since China is going to vacuum some areas, it is a good sign for India and we should try to capitalise on it.”

Susheel Kaul, CEO, Arvind Mills

Things are getting streamlined in Indian textile, with the introduction of GST, the market will see a big improvement, organized growth in the sector will pick up pace. A lot of growth is expected to come in coming years, initiatives like ‘Make In India’ are likely help a lot, Moreover, with China vacuuming many areas in textile, India has a good opportunity to present itself as a textile hub.”

For Mandhana, export is just 10 per cent of their total business, rest is aimed at the domestic market. It is because there are a lot of challenges in supplying to exporters, they convert it to garment and then export. “We are supplying fabrics to domestic brands through nominated chains. Mainly, we are not selling fabrics off the shelf, we are into supply.”

On import front, Deshmukh says they are not an import intensive, as they are mainly into cotton, polyester and viscose, which are abundantly available in India. Kaul says avers, “We are observing a shift happening from cotton to blends. The Indian market is still dominated by cotton products. Markets abroad are more concerned about performance of the fabric, fibres, innovations and designs, so the shift is visible.”

Expanse of innovation

Talking about ideas and new fashion launches, Mandhana elaborates, “We do a lot of research. We have a dedicated design team for this purpose who visit global markets, observe upcoming trends and create new concepts and develop new structures in fabrics. We specialise in

casual clothing and the market is big for this segment. This year, we are experimenting with indigo a lot. Plenty of washes have been introduced. We have developed fabrics, which can be washed down on different capacities without losing its actual effect. A lot of colours have been introduced frequently, colour palette is not limited to blues and indigos.”

In the same vein, Arvind strives for innovation in designing and fabrics. “We have a sophisticated design teams. We are more aligned with brands and their requirements. Our relationship with brands is more of a partnership. We understand their needs, take feedbacks and develop products accordingly. That is why our demand-supply factor does not come under pressure. We are aligned with change, so we are growing consistently. If you are not aligned well, you by all means are going to stagnate. Flexibility and adaptability helps to stay ahead. Innovation is very important nowadays. This side of the business is going to drive tomorrow’s market. It fosters growth and margins.”

OWM prides itself in bringing many international trends to the domestic market.

Most leading domestic brands are now at par with the global trends. In 2017, OWM is trying to bring back pastel shades embellished with different coating, textured denims, feather weight denims with super soft touch.

The way forward…

For Kaul, the Indian market is growing and will keep growing further. Overseas markets are doing moderately well. “But we have, through our innovation, product differentiation and designing, managed to grow well. Things are getting streamlined in Indian textile market and with the introduction of GST, the market will see a big improvement, organised growth in the sector will pick pace. In India, organised players are growing well. A lot of growth is expected to come in coming years. Initiatives like ‘Make in India’ are likely to help a lot. Moreover, with China vacuuming many areas in textile, India has a good opportunity to present itself as a textile hub.”

On the same note, Deshmukh believes India is required to grow both in export and domestic markets. “China is giving us space and we should capitalise on it. We are the second largest textile players in the world after China. Bangladesh and neighbouring countries are growing promisingly in the garmenting sector, as far as textile is concerned. We have all the possibilities to be a global leader.”

Going ahead, Mandhana is expecting moderate growth further. They are not looking for expansion, and aiming at consolidation, and would continue to invest in innovation in the future. “Policies are favourable, the market is doing good, India has what it takes to be a top textile and apparel destination,” concludes Kaul.

Manish Mandhana, MD, Mandhana Industries

“Consumption is still low retail is down, discounts are outrageous. These factors are influencing the market. There is certainly a pressure on margins. As far as the industry is concerned, 25 per cent of the total production is exported currently. Out of which 10 per cent goes for direct export of fabrics while another 15 per cent is contributed by export in the form of garments. Rest 75 per cent is consumed domestically.”

Anamika Sengupta, Sr. Manager Marketing, OWM Nahar

“The entire industry is suffering the effect of demonetization. Domestic market was mostly dependent on cash previously, and industry got affected a lot. Hopefully situation will be improved soon.

SpringSummer 2017 Fashion Trends: Colors and Textiles

Let us summarize the key Colors and Textile directions for the next year's hot season.

For Spring-Summer 2017 the focus of British mills is on boldness, invention and audacity, built on strong foundations of integrity, quality and respect for the production environment of textiles.

Inspiration – Playful

Inspiration Dream

UK mills continue to invest in advanced technologies for sustainable and transparent manufacture. Traditional textile product categories and seasons become less relevant and nothing is what it was or seems anymore, the boundaries between male and female, winter and summer, formal and casual, city and country are all but disappearing.

The overlap between fabrics for apparel, home interior and sport becomes more fluid and opportunities open up to present a whole lifestyle offer. Spring-Summer 2017 offers up new alliances and harmonious confrontations from British companies with captivating new collections to truly treasure and enjoy.

Playful

This is a joyful mix of unexpected connections; mis-matched color and pattern create exciting, provocative and decorative design collisions. The idea is to use lots of color in one fabric and not be shy, to mix and not match: this is a story of playful and ever-inspirational treasures, rich ethnicity and heritage taken from around the world to savour. The jumbling of yarns and weaves in decorative eccentricity has a distinctly modern outcome, creating an abstract rhythm and a rich color palette.

FABRICS: Summer novelty tweeds; colorful stripe prints on fine cottons or silks; madras type checks; fabrics with fringed or raw edges that are used for garment detail; combination of extreme fineness and extreme thickness in woven fabrics; lace and macrame; bright glen checks; wool/cotton distorted and milled checks and stripes; colorful small herringbones; painterly florals; out-of-scale patterns; prominent 3D weaves.

Explorer

This theme began as a reflection of the movement and change in the world we inhabit -non-seasonal and all weather textiles, the blurring of rural and urban living, functionality and performance requirements and pioneering travel wear, be it for the commute to work or that special holiday. A trail-blazing spirit that encompasses both natural and technical research and unites these two ingredients in an advanced level of development. This modern edit is refined and discreet yet displays total selfconfidence.

FABRICS: Unisex tailoring; canvas; wool/ linen; color and weave; natural stretch; fibre blends of naturals and manmade; emerised surfaces; calendered and polished linen blends; wool/mohair leno; fine ottomans and cords; pinstripes with irregular fine slubby wefts; ‘table-cloth’ checks; softly washed and lightly undulating suitings; natural wools with technical performance; graphic movement in prints and weaves

Inspiration – Explorer

British Colors & Textiles - Spring-Summer 2017

Dream

A graceful and serene story that conveys simplicity and fragility of nature and heirloom pieces. Delicate items are placed together to create a new unity, silently cherished and meditative. The compositions are intuitive, unplanned and ephemeral, familiar and unfamiliar at the same time. Handmade and craffed textiles are important, as are their sensitive and intriguing narratives. The mood is one of quiet reflection, inwardlooking and distinctly personal that reaches into the soul of this look.

British Colors & Textiles - Spring-Summer 2017

Selection of fabrics from the British Mills for Spring-Summer 2017

A/W 2017-18 FABRIC, INNOVATION & TREND SNAPSHOT

Invista reported that 78 percent of consumers surveyed expressed interest in purchasing a winter jean that could help keep them warm. At Kingpins Amsterdam, the company debuted two new technologies aimed to fill that demand, Thermolite Infared and Thermolite Dual Layer.

Thermolite Infared technology is solaractivated by the sun or artificial light using Near Infrared (NIR) yarns. The yarns absorb the NIR rays to raise the temperature of the garment, keeping the wearer warmed by two degrees Celsius. Thermolite Infared is also designed to reduced drying time. Theromolite Dual Layer is based on a patent fabric construction that creates open spaces within the fabric, trapping air to help keep the wearer warm. The fabrication is slightly thicker, but it is lightweight and offers insulation close to fleece level warmth.

Calik, much like the rest of the denim industry, is in the midst of a renaissance. The mill split its A/W 2017-18 collection into six umbrellas of product, or solutions: performance, true denim, aesthetic, functionality, sustainability, and touch and feel.

Four-way stretch has become a ticket for denim to enter the activewear scene, but mills are discovering that more innovation is needed to perfect the fabrication. Last season, Calik rolled out Elastech, a fabrication developed to eliminate the headaches and limitations of stretch denim, including puckering and shrinkage. The Turkish denim mill is following up that solution with Curve, an innovation for women’s skinny cuts that works like a makeup concealer hiding the wearer’s flaws. Curve technology blocks extreme stretchout along the weft while creating a pushup effect for the bottom without sacrificing

comfort. The innovation also eliminates unflattering creases along the back and puckering lengthwise along the inseam.

Candiani is famous for its refined and authentic denim, but the Italian mill has placed an emphasis on creating “new dimensions of stretch” with a trio of elastic constructions: Warper, Sling 360º and Shaper-X for A/W 2017-18. With Warper, Candiani changed the conventional direction of elasticity from weft to warp, focusing on the stress points of a jean, like the knee, waist and back area.

The elastic warp allows the fabric to follow the body’s movement, offering the wearer greater freedom of movement and offering designers more elasticity to explore a whole new realm of designs and fits. The rigid weft, meanwhile, facilitates distress treatments to guarantee an authentic vintage denim look.

The mill applied its premium stretch technology, Sling, to both the weft and warp

in its range of Sling 360º denim designed to ease mobility. The fabric’s 4-way elasticity is finished with a treatment that creates control of the elasticity and low growth. Meanwhile, the mill is offering its most flexible yet stable stretch denim fabrication with Shaper-X, which guarantees overall shrinkage below five percent.

“Stretch needs to perform. It can’t bag out,” confirmed Jack Mathews, Artistic Denim Mills (ADM) director of sales and marketing. Over 95 percent of ADM’s collection is stretch denim. The mill has stopped showing separate men’s and women’s collections because there is so much crossover.

Mathews says the demand for stretch fabric and denim with a “peach skin hand” continues to come from the premium end of the denim spectrum, however, he says there’s interest in 100 percent cotton, spurred on by the Generation Y-led trend for marble-looking denim and vintage weights. Not enough can be said about consumers’ demand for comfort, stretch and variety.

Part of Berto’s three-part collection for the season included denim for the workplace—a concept that presented refined, professional indigo attire with an emphasis on yarns like Lycra Dual FX. “People get bored,” added Berto Marketing Manager Arianna Morimando. The mill also presented denim in a Pitti-perfect collection with dandy-inspired styling and a collection that revisited denim’s roots with heavier weights.

Cone continues to see interest in nostalgic fabrications, including denim with ’70s and ’80s mid-tones, reported Kara Nicholas, Cone Denim vice president of product development and marketing. To offer the best of both the vintage and athleisure worlds, the mill is adding stretch to the throwback fabrication, but in a way that ensures the maintenance of its authentic look.

The mill also expanded its Natural Indigo Collection featuring indigo produced in Tennessee by Stony Creek Colors to include wide-width fabrics, Tencel blends and higher stretch denim for A/W 201718. The collection maintains the original true indigo shade from the initial selvedge collection, but with added comfort.

For the athleisure-minded consumer, Calik debuted Knitrogene, a knitted fabrication with a traditional denim surface including twill lines but with a plush-like interior feeling. For the consumer in search for true denim, the mill launched D’Enovated, a line of rigid and comfort stretch denim with vertical slubs, subtle cross-hatch and salt and pepper effects. The line offers the orange peel look some Millennials and Generation Y consumers are discovering for the first time.

Denim designer Roy Slaper and Artistic Fabric and Garment Industries (AFGI) presented an exclusive collection made at AFGI’s factory in Karachi, Pakistan. The Roy x AFGI Collection was designed and created to showcase the mill’s new fabric developments and garment-making capabilities. For the line, Slaper focused on authentic American fits and washes with details like back knee whiskers.

AFGI Director Hasan Javed said the line is more American than the rest of the mill’s collection, which tends to skew European. Javed added that it was important for AFGI to have someone like Slaper help show the rest of the industry what its fully-vertical facilities can achieve.

Retro and Americana color stories were rampant at the show. Prosperity introduced Sweet Indigo, a purple retro tone derived from sugar. ADM calls its vintage shade Parliament Blue, a color that Mathews said ties back to the ’70s look comprised of wide flare legs and frayed jeans. The shade is bright with limited yarn character.

Mills reported that black is coming on strong for A/W 2017-18, as well as shades of gray. Prosperity debuted a new gunmetal, a darker option than what was trending for S/S 2017 for the winter season. Cone also introduced black back selvedge.

Green was top of mind for companies like Tonello, which in partnership with Candiani, presented a new sustainable collection called Safe Garment. The chemical-free collection just uses some pigment for effect and water brush for added brightness. “When you start with a good base like Candiani denim, you can do great things,” said Alice Tonello, the garment finishing company’s marketing and R&D manager.

At Kingpins, Archroma, Garmon, Lenzing and Royo presented a project to produce denim garments based on the most efficient possible use of resources. Archoma quoted a study that declared that 1.8 trillion liters of water are consumed monthly in the production of jeans. In order to try and save the most water and energy and reduce waste, Archroma used its Advanced Denim technology.

The process requires only one impregnation of the yarn in the dyebath, using only a small volume of coloring liquid. The process also fixes 100 percent of the applied dye on the fiber, eliminating the need to consume more water washing off the unfixed dye. Advanced Denim allows water saving of approximately 90 percent compared to standard indigo dyeing applications.

Miguel Sanchez, Archroma head global business development, segment denim and casualwear, explained that the issue with the consumption of water is not only the waste, but also the pollution from the effluents that may contain different chemical species that might even be hazardous and require special water treatments.

YKK set out to remind attendees that they are a source for more than “just zippers” with a new line of rivets customized with eco finishing. The line is the perfect punctuation to collections focused on sustainability. The chemical-free trims are made with standard materials, but their appearance is altered by applying different levels of water, heat and salt to the finishing process. Others are baked for a longer period of time for a darker appearance. “Even the smallest part of a jean can be eco-friendly,” pointed out Simone Herbig, YKK account manager.

“We’re a big manufacturer, so we should pay attention to the environment.”

Milano Unica: Fabric Trends for Autumn Winter 2017-18

Layered materials

rich with textures and colours that recall the beauty we see in wood, the Earth and a mood board in mode #National Geographic. Elaborate knits and chunky winter warmers with designs that quote natures patterns and tones.

Multi coloured fur and a focus on soft, chenille and fluffy accessories, and comforting textures.

The 23rd edition of the biannual Milano Unica trade fair for textiles and accessories took place in Milan from the 6th-8th of September. This edition was all about displaying the Autumn Winter 2017-2018 trends. The important fashion event brings together the relationship between raw material producers and fashion designers, as well as dictating the trends to the fashion world.

The theme of New Beginnings was based on the fact that the expo moved to a new location in Milan, but also a new viewpoint of fashion, focusing on new technologies in the textile industry and young designers.

The accessories and materials were divided into 4 categories: Leather, Stone, Textiles and Technology. The focus was on buttons and metal accessories: wooden and organic materials, natural rustic textures and tones for accessories and clasps. Important Made In Italy manufacturers of high level took part, as well as international exhibitors, eg Japan and Korea.

What are the trends that we can be excited about when it comes to materials for AW17-18?

Well, it’s back to basics.

Black & White

Elegant tweeds, chunky winter knits and traditional tones will keep things in ‘check’ for those winter weekend breaks where only the trendiest warmth will do.

Back to Black

Black will the bold statement that will do the talking for winter AW 1718. Shiny and glittered textures, a vamp detail.

TEXTRENDS SPRING/SUMMER 2018

VISIONS FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

One goal of ISPO MUNICH is to be a gateway for future trends. In cooperation with trend experts ISPO MUNICH studied various global trends with influence on the textile industry and its products. In combination with the defined trend colors and five more detailed textile trends, these mega trends provide a good vision where the future of textiles will take us.

ISPO MUNICH is very pleased to have the opportunity to share these visions for Spring/ Summer 2018 with the textile industry and to use these trends as a basic guideline. The mega trends show visions that are not specific to one particular area but will influence the entire textile chain right down to the consumer.

The color cards and the textile trends result from a range of influences, from consumer behavior to the global economy. Film, music, social media, art and many other activities are reflected in these trends. They form a basic guideline how new developments and innovations of ingredient products will be shown. Making the most of what you have is the key to this season’s ISPO TEXTRENDS delivery

as we encourage and push the host of high functioning ingredients available in the activewear sector to new levels and encourage a new lease of life. Creativity is key in compiling new offerings, moving away from the basics and injecting a sense of rejuvenation. This doesn’t mean we are void of new and energetic developments, innovations that are set to feature at the higher end of the market. ISPO TEXTRENDS preview of the season should stimulate the senses and deliver fresh and exciting products. Let’s get working!

NEW HORIZONS

The season sees a host of opportunities in delivering new developments through to new target markets for all sectors of the activewear industry. Don’t be blinkered in your vision, the mood is changing as we all start to share and embrace new ideas and ideologies. Technology transforms the sector, allowing a forward thinking to basic bestsellers alongside delivering a newness. What can we do to take a step forward and revive traditional products and produce enticing products that will appeal to the consumer?

With this in mind, we need to look at what we have and readdress the appeal of a product, enhancing the final look through content, finish and touch through to final application. We need to take the familiar and create the unfamiliar, without neglecting traditional aspects but also not avoiding the new generation developments coming through. It is time to play around, mix and match and create topnotch unique aspects that will drive sales.

ANIMATED

A force of well-being and upbeat positivity surges through. Today’s world is a chaotic place from the doom and gloom of global news to the frenzy of our hyperconnected society. Downtime is precious and we need to make the most of it. Consumers are looking for added value combined with the need to enjoy life. Well being and nourishment push the health-wear aspect of the season, not just from the functional products on offer but through the activities that will be pursued by the end consumer, from light to high level performance.

This is going to be evident in the products coming through as multi functional fabrics and just the simple aspect of vibrant

and happy colors through to prints and sumptuous surfaces and touch. The result is a well-earned reassurance that we can enjoy ourselves, pursue our leisure activities without guilt. It is time to be free, and this applies to the constraints of both industry providers and the consumer.

BONA FIDE

Truth, transparency and honor all feature as we strive in continuing to develop a

stronger sustainable society ranging from ingredients to ethics. Belief in the ingredient products from the brands is passed on to the consumer, allowing for a cleaner, greener and fairer world. New sustainable fibers through to water and energy reduced processes within the traditional textile chain come through. This viable mega trend ensures that this moral movement still delivers the high level performance the consumer expects.

Nature plays a key role, with natural fibers and nano-technology ensuring an authentic offering. Synthetics follow suit, updating their processes and delivering stronger sustainable solution. What is crucial is that we must all band together, and this will also be seen through a synergetic and harmonious approach from all sectors for the season.

Fashion & Colour Forecast S/S 2018

This exciting introduction to the Spring/Summer 2018 season brings together original multidisciplinary research and detailed catwalk analysis.

TREND MOOD: COMPONENT

The symbolism of belonging to something, is expressed in clothing with identifiable signs or familiar aspects. These signals identify the individual as a smaller component of a larger movement. Component picks up on the subtle signals that separate and join people together.

COMPONENT Research

In our research areas we explore what’s happening culturally in music, books, photography, architecture, interior design, art, films and video and translate the influence of science, technology and food.

COMPONENT Inner Workings

This womenswear page shows the trend for visible seaming and contrast outlines, to highlight edges and give a cartoon-like finish.

TREND MOOD: WONDERLUST

Recreating the feeling of wonder and awe in the natural world, and the excitement and lust for travelling into the unknown. The theme reaches into a childish, simplistic view

of the world, and an eagerness to embrace nature and pursue adventure.

WONDERLUST Detail

In our research areas we explore what’s happening culturally in music, books, photography, architecture, interior design, art, films and video and translate the influence of science, technology and food.

WONDERLUST Colour

A strong spring/summer palette with a wide range of energetic colours balanced by high pastel tones and a solid base of dark shades. This section outlines the core colours, essential highlights and creative combinations for each of the three S/S themes.

Wonderlust colours emerge from a naturally deep base of woodland, camouflage and tent green into a wild collection of orange, yellow

and pink. Heightened shades of sulphur green and safety orange are charged with energy and optimism. Softer shades blend together into a range of pastels or work with their tonal partners.

Styling pages define the important colour combinations to use in fashion, and highlight key shades for the three S/S 2018 themes. Here bright crimson is partnered with the natural pigment colours of rocky pink and woodland, which has a softening impact.

TREND MOOD: SHUFFLE

Remixers are the new artists, part of the creative slash/slash generation who criss-cross through disciplines, bringing a fresh approach to design. These are the individuals who shake things up and disrupt the establishment; designers like Alessandro Michele, Demna Gvasalia and Grace Wales Bonner.

Aniruddha Deshmukh Managing Director and CEO

Mafatlal Industries Limited

Tell us about the brand.

We are into denims and shirting. We are also into school uniforms and ready to stitch clothing. We are at the higher end of the market so the products are value added rather than basic stuff. We export and supply to brands as well. In shirtings, we are the leader in the white fabric category, used for shirtings, kurta pajamas etc. Then there is polyester cotton and cotton blends. We do fair amount of prints and cotton prints and viscose prints. We are number one in school uniform segment and fairly established in the ready to stitch segment as well. In the organised uniform sector, we are the dominant player in the market. In denim, we are making good strides.

What are the latest fabric trends?

In women’s wear, there are lots of prints in the market. Viscose has good demand. We are seeing good growth in high end fashion denim. This is a kind of departure from basic denim. In white too, people are looking for more varieties in terms of fabric. Dobbies have been introduced keeping demand in mind. Consumers are attracted to innovations. This is a fashion business, so trends change fast. You have to keep up with this change. You are supposed to innovate constantly with designs, silhouettes, cuts, fabric construction etc.

How close are we to global trends?

The concept of spring/summer and autumn/winter exists only in western markets in the fullest sense. In India, there are seasons and collections all round the year. So that is one difference. But we are coming close to the global cycle in terms of fashion, since we have many international brands here. So the pace of adoption is fast.

What trade channels do you follow?

It’s a different channel for every segment. In denim we follow trade. We go to garmenters and brands. We follow a similar concept for our shirting business as well. Fabrics go through wholesale, and also to garmenters but on a small scale. We are not seeing any ups and down in any particular trade channel. Small aberrations are there but overall in the long term it is okay.

How do you handle fluctuating cotton prices?

The fluctuations induce cuts in margins and add to costs. So there is an impact, but companies adjust, manage to face challenges. But there is certainly no doubt that rising cotton prices in the last quarter have had a significant impact on producers.

What are future business prospects?

We do minimum imports. We export denim and shirting fabrics to some countries and these countries in turn supply end products to global brands. So we see terrific growth in this segment. We produce for India as well. We are mainly into cotton, polyester and viscose, which are abundantly available in India.

There are certain areas where India is doing well and there are some segments where we are not yet efficient. In manufacturing, we have large capacities in the spinning sector but in weaving and finishing we need to do a lot. We are the second largest in term of textiles, but when it comes it machinery, we are placed at the thirteenth or fourteenth position. Textile machinery is the area where we need to work on.

“We see good growth in high end fashion denim”

Susheel Kaul CEO, Shirting, Arvind Mills

Arvind Mills

Tell us about Arvind’s business.

We work with numerous domestic and international brands. There is no fabric in the world which we don’t make. Demand for manmade fibers is rising because of their sustainable nature. More and more brands are looking for sustainable solutions, so fabrics like Tencel and modal are in great demand. We have moved toward blended fabrics. In India, cotton is the major fabric. Earlier, we were had a growth rate of 15 to 20 per cent but now owing to our focus on optimization of business, growth rate is hovering in the range seven to 10 per cent a year. We are expanding geographically as well as our production. We have scaled down operations as the focus is more on consolidation and adding value to the supply chain. We have through our innovation, product differentiation and designing managed to grow well enough.

What’s your USP?

We are not a typical textile mill. We strive for innovation in design and fabrics. A sophisticated design team is in place and we invest a lot of money and time on innovation. We are aligned with brands and their requirements. We don’t believe in the usual buyer-seller relationship. Our relationship with brands is more a partnership as we understand their needs, take feedback and develop products accordingly. That is why our demand-supply factor does not come under pressure. We are aligned with change, so we are growing consistently. If you are not aligned, you are going to stagnate. Flexibility and adaptability help one stay ahead.

Tell us about your exports.

We get a fair amount of business from the exports. Nearly 60 per cent is exports and 40 per cent domestic. Since the Spring/Summer season is ahead, we are seeing fair growth in our business. We are happy with the response from countries such as the US. Global brands we are connected with are doing well. The share of exports and domestic trade keeps changing on a quarterly basis. These figures of trade are determined by supply and demand dynamics. Overseas markets are doing moderately well.

What is the business scenario?

India has what it takes to be a top textile and apparel destination. The challenges that remain are labour policies, raw material price variations, loans etc. In a country like India, textiles have high potential for growth. If the product is right, the new generation does not hesitate to buy it, so there are immense opportunities for growth. The Indian market is growing and will keep growing. Things are getting streamlined in Indian textiles with the introduction of GST.

Organized growth in the sector will pick up pace. A lot of growth is expected to come in coming years in the organised sector. Initiatives like ‘Make In India’ are likely to help a lot. Moreover, with China vacating many areas in textiles, India has a good opportunity to present itself as a textile hub. Overseas markets are shifting from cottons to blends. The Indian market is still dominated by cotton products. Markets abroad are more concerned about the performance of the fabric, fibers, innovations and designs.

“There is no fabric in the world which we don’t make”

Anamika Sen Gupta Sr. Marketing Manager

OWM Nahar

What are the fabrics in your portfolio?

We are in the medium premium segment, which has few players. Our production is around 40 million meters a year. We have denims from 3 to 15 oz, catering to all segments. Among specialized products, we have 100 per cent Tencel, cotton viscose (stretch and non stretch), laser printed denims, reactive colored denims (stripes and checks), printed denims, peach denims, dobbies and knitted denims. We do 30 per cent exports and 70 per cent domestic. In domestic 30 per cent is for readymade garment manufacturers and retailers and the rest for the dealer segment.

How about innovations in the segment?

We bring international trends to the domestic market. So most leading domestic brands are clued in to international trends. In 2017, we are trying to bring back pastel shades embellished with different coatings, textured denims, feather weight denims with super soft touch. In India, technological upgradation is not an issue. Almost all leading mills are having good infrastructure. But good policies are required to facilitate this industry, which happens in other countries.

Did November 8 demonetisation affect you?

The domestic market is yet to revive from it. It was mostly dependent on cash and the industry got affected a lot. At this moment, after a lot of turbulence in the last two months, everyone is awaiting normal cash flow.

“We produce 40 million meters a year”

Mandhana Industries

Manish Mandhana Managing Director, Mandhana Industries

Tell us about the brand.

We are one of the largest textile producers. We make yarn dyed, weaving and processing, multiple fabrics. It is not like we focus only on cotton or polyester. Our base in terms of production and varieties is large. Like last year, a lot of focus was on modal and viscose. Then there are a lot of printed fabrics, solids and yarn dyed fabrics. We specialise in casual clothing. The market is quite big for this segment. So this year we are experimenting with indigo. Plenty of washes have been introduced, mostly light washes. We have developed fabrics which can be washed on different capacities without losing the actual effect. A lot of colours have been introduced. The colour palette is not limited to blue or indigo. Talking about ideas and new fashion launches, we do a lot of research and have a dedicated designing team for this purpose, which visits global markets, absorbs latest trends and creates new concepts and develops new fabric structures.

What are your business channels?

We have four channels of business. Distribution of fabrics in foreign markets from where it goes to small and regional players; supplying to big brands; supplying fabrics to big lines such as Gap and Banana Republic; dedicated to majors in India who further help us spread base. We supply fabrics to domestic brands as well as nominated chains. We don’t do much off the shelf selling.

What is the market scenario right now?

The fabric business has become competitive and matured over years. We innovate with new products and launch branded stuff frequently. It helps us secure better margins. The essence of our working is we keep ourselves updated with new ideas and technologies and aim to give our clients something new. It helps us beat competition.

The textile industry as a whole sees promising growth. Of course, there are plenty of manufacturers and their numbers are rising, translating into fierce competition. Pricing pressure does exist but that can be handled by providing a good quality product and fashion at par with international markets.

Exports are just 10 per cent of our total business. The rest is aimed at the domestic market because we are in a country where domestic consumption is high. As far as the industry is concerned, 25 per cent of the total production is exported, out of which 10 per cent goes in direct exports of fabrics while another 15 per cent is contributed by exports in the form of garments. The other 75 per cent is consumed domestically.

Do you see roadblocks?

India is the largest producer of cotton, and 25 million people are engaged in this sector. This helps job creation but we have not been able to achieve the level we should have. The textile sector is under stress owing to bad labour policies, lack of incentives on exports of fabrics and deficiency of funds for investment in the sector. The textile industry has in recent years become a symbol of low returns, high competition and unexpected volatility. More textile parks and SEZs should be established. Fresh funds should be pumped into the sector. The textile sector will be in an advantageous position if policies are framed accordingly. We have skilled labour and raw materials in abundance. The production cost is low compared to western countries’ but we are doing a fraction of what has been done around the globe in textiles.

We are expecting moderate growth. Consumption is low, retail is also down, discounts and sales are becoming outrageous. There is little potential for making money. People are looking for low prices, which is leading to lower margins. Since cost is high, interest rates are exorbitant. So there is a pressure on margins.

“We innovate with new products and launch branded stuff frequently”

Emerging Trends in Fabric for Men’s Shirts

Shirts fall in the category of formal, casual and occasional wear. There is further sub segmentation on the basis of pricing and buyer’s profile in the metros and nonmetros. The shirt industry is offering high quality fabrics in diverse designs and blends as per latest fashion trends. Shirting fabrics play an extremely important role in a readymade shirt. Fabric type is one of the important factors as the functional criteria during formation into a ready made garment. Shirt fabrics also play important criteria for selection and buying decisions. The performance of the fabric does not necessarily predict the performance of the shirt but the two are strongly related as the right fabric is required for shirt to meet aesthetic and functional performance expectations. Standards for fabric for shirts are based on factors such as design, fashion trends, consumer’s preferences, price and market profile. Fabrics provide men with the right choice of fabric that suits their lifestyle. Besides colour and patterns, the fabrics also provide dress shirts with varying textures and give the men, literally, a different feel for each fabric. Men while making purchases; base their decisions on design as well as fabric. It is important for manufacturers, retailers and consumers to know emerging trends in fabrics for men shirts as men can try different dress shirts fabrics to create variation within their wardrobe. Also it is the task of textile technologist and designers to know in detail about the emerging raw

materials of readymade shirts in order to help the common people to access the quality parameters of the garment before selection.

There is steady growth in the international men’s wear industry. This is witnessed in last few years as men are becoming more fashion conscious.

Importance of shirts

Wonders can be achieved for a man through men’s dress shirt as it is one of the most important parts of a man’s wardrobe. Appropriateness for the occasion-leisure, work or business helps in selection of shirt style, and with a good fit, right colours and patterns it can definitely flatter the man’s built and frame. Further a shirt can rejuvenate any of dull coloured suits. Every shirt can be different in terms of detailing of the fabric, pattern, collar, buttons, placket, and cuffs. Therefore shirts need not be homogenous and monotonous in shape, style, and design. A same shirt worn by two men will bring about a different feel and style because

of the difference in the men’s body frame, personality, as well as the combination with other apparels like suits. Self confidence and comfort are increased when a man shirt is clean, neat, fresh, and well fitted.

Emerging trends in shirt industry

According to the changing fashions in the men’s garment industry, manufacturers have to adjust their production cycles as per these fashion oriented changes.

Now a days garment represents a status symbol and also makes a fashion statement, therefore importance is given on quality of fabrics, cuts and design.

Working atmosphere is changing as companies are allowing men to wear semi formals and casuals at workplace. This has resulted in change of focus of manufacturers as they are also shifting production from formal wear to casual wear.

The shirt industry is offering high quality fabrics in diverse designs and blends as per latest fashion trends. Fabric determines

the comfort and care of shirt. Fabric that is smooth in texture, absorbent, and can be laundered easily will contribute to comfort during wear. There is direct relationship between fabric cost and count, fineness of yarn and fabric design. Cotton is king! It rules in fabrics. Manufacturers are providing a mix of products for shirts in blends of polyester, cotton, tencel, viscose etc and in variety of weaves Le plain, twill, satin and other dobbies. Also are available tecno-natural ranges that cover all blended fabrics which are blends of cotton with manmade fibers.

Consumers in India are yet to get an experience of wearing shirts made from high performance fibers. Consumers are becoming fashion conscious and expect desirable, fashionable styles in shirts. Emerging trends indicate that consumers ask for quality and high performance fabrics and innovative design features. New apparel lines are being launched with such fabrics as Revival, Holofiber, Spectra Lite and Spectrum.

Each of these fabrics is offering consumers quality and high performance. The hot item in the shirt industry are in a new bright colour palette and unique designs, where consumers are offered highest performance and breath ability along with a stylish presence through each fabric-type. A super comfortable range of wovens and knits in various blends are in trend. In vogue for extra comfort and stretch into men’s shirt, is a luxuriously soft cotton jersey, with a touch of spandex.

Shirts fall in the category of formal, casual and occasional wear. There is further sub segmentation on the basis of pricing and buyers profile in the metros and non-metros.

Formal shirts

Formal shirts for men are sub segmented into two categories, namely (a) premium shirts and (b) popular shirts.

(a) Premium Formal shirts

Fiber content:

Cotton rules! For premium formal shirts,

85-90% of fabrics used are cotton. Linen is promising fiber offering much higher level of comfort than cotton. It is gaining popularity in fashion even beyond summers. Quality shirts are made by 2 ply yarns of fine counts which ranges from 2 x 80s to as fine as 2 x 140s yarns made fabrics.

Most of the fabrics used in premium formal shirts are made in India. There is varied percentage of usage of imported versus Indian fabrics by different brands in these shirts. 100 percent cotton or high percentage of cotton blended with polyester is used for by and large in premium brands only or mid segment brands done as premium products.

Structures:

The trend is for value added cottons with structures and dobby’s in weaves. 80% of share in design fabrics is taken up by stripes with balance mainly in checks. There is negligible share of prints in premium formal shirts. Solid share is almost 40% and in solid, structure fabrics have a substantial usage for this category of shirts.

(b) Popular Formal shirts Fiber content:

Innovative fabrics are being used by brands to create product differentiation and also to add value addition to their product. Because of comfort factor, 100% cotton is usually favored in these shirts. Blends that are in trends for ready made shirts are poly viscose and poly cotton. Last 2-3 years has seen emerging trend in use of poly cotton against poly viscose which was the only blend available in synthetics.

There is rise in use of polyester/cotton blends and CVC and silks, mock linen, linen look in polyester cotton fabrics, instead of linen or linen blends by various brands of formal popular shirts. For work shirts fabrics used are poplin, chambray, twill, denim and drill cloth, in fibers of cotton, nylon, acrylic and polyester as these shirts need durability. In the international scene it is blended in the mid segment or lower range, and cotton in the premium category. For premium segment of shirts the fabric is 100 percent cotton whereas for popular segments are mostly blended. There are varied fashion trends in cotton/cotton blends/polyester fabrics in India and abroad.

Structures:

Men’s formal popular shirts are becoming younger, fresh and are emerging with a strong element of fashion. Colours are becoming younger, brighter and fresher. The colour palette has a wide choice with beige, chrome, blue, fuchsia, brown and so on. The design includes checks, micro checks, plains and stripes. Blended fabrics in structure/dobbies for popular range for solid shirts are increasingly being used. More of checks rather than stripes designs

are seen in trend in the synthetics segment particularly in PV or PC ranges.

Casual shirts Fiber content:

Last few years have witnessed radical changes in casual shirts. Segmentation is one of the changes which have made the casual shirt no longer a shirt but a style statement. 80-85% casual’s shirts are made of cotton. Poplins and tussar in solid designs in yarn dyed cottons are in trends. Other fashion fabrics in trends for casual shirts are polyester, viscose and their blends and specialty fibers like lycra, modal, tencel, lyocel, polynosic etc. Linen is other favorite fabric for casuals but restricted only due to higher costs.

Structures:

Casuals are quite versatile hence in bold and bright colours and a variety in weaves

dominates casual shirts. To make casual wear a style statement, other techniques being used are garment washing, applique detailing, and even ornamentation and embroidery. Different ratio between designs (check/stripes), solids and prints are used in category of shirts.

Occasional shirts Fiber content:

Occasional shirts have to be in sync with the changed tastes and preferences of the consumers. The product range should meet varied aspirations of different age groups. Variation is noticed from brand to brand in current style trends for occasional shirts. There is wide range of fabrics used for occasional wear shirts. Fabric range depends on the brands and collection for the season. Variety of fabrics like cotton, polyester, polyester blends, polynosics, linen are used, but cotton still leads. Cotton

blended with polyester and also polyester viscose is a great combination and will continue to dominate for occasion wear as they provide sheen in the fabric. Spun polyester is an excellent fabric for special events when a heavier look and durable fabric is preferred.

Structures:

There is a lot of creativity in trends on surface, weave, structure and texture of the fabrics. Prints, solids, checks and stripes all are into trends but extent of usage is varying from brand to brand. In festive season, 100% polyester fabrics are increasingly used because of a lot more designing factors, jacquards and different kinds of weaves and value additions. The cottlive range which is launched recently is made out of polyester treated with eco friendly chemicals to impart a cotton feel and thus provide improved yarn strength, a very smooth structure and very low pilling. Floral, all over prints, cross stripes and washed shirts are extensively being used and are integral part of occasional shirts.

Conclusion

Shirting fabrics play an extremely important role in a readymade shirt. Fabric type is one of the important factors as the functional criteria during formation into a readymade garment. Shirt fabrics also play important criteria for selection and buying decisions. The performance of the fabric does not necessarily predict the performance of the shirt but the two are strongly related as the tight fabric is required for shirt to meet aesthetic and functional performance expectations. Standards for fabric for shirts are based on factors such as design, fashion trends, consumer’s preferences, price and market profile. Besides colour and patterns, the fabrics also provide dress shirts with varying textures and give the men, literally, a different feel for each fabric. Men while making purchases; base their decisions on design as well as fabric. It is important for manufacturers, retailers and consumers to know emerging trends in fabrics for men shirts as men can try different dress shirts fabrics to create variation within their wardrobe.

Premium quality shirting fabrics for Spring-Summer 2017

The history of Gruppo Tessile Monti is rooted in the middle of the 1800s and today Tessitura Monti S.p.A. is the Monti family’s historical textile production vehicle - a worldwide leader in premium quality shirting fabrics.

Tessitura Monti offers every season new colors, structures, special yarns and innovative prints. Spring-Summer collection 2017 looks colorful in all its designs, for a fresh proposal, typical of Summer, more dynamic and lively.

Tessitura Monti collection is the stylistic reworking of a travel on three evocative sensory dimensions:

* an urban itinerary, through cultures, colors, metropolitan graphics, movement and dynamism;

* an exotic-tropical journey, made of colors, scents, of constant aesthetic renovation and a reinterpretation of taste and new realities;

* a virtual trip, through digital network, new structures, lightness and speed.

Tones

A colorful collection. Three tones of shading, developing as many color themes, define the color palette SS2017.

Safe colors: a classic of shirting world from blue to sky, with tones from red to pink, and for sure the classic white, the non-color for excellence, across all the collections. Safe tones, related to the journey, chromatically translate the dawn, the beginning of every new day, when the light is soft.

Colonial tones: colors are neutral, not saturated and poor of brightness, becoming in this way the shades of discretion and balance. The beige, shades of khaki, the

burnt colors reminding sulphur, minerals and volcanic landscapes recalling the charm of sunset, the day turning to dusk.

Tropical: all the ranges of saturated and vibrant colors, with a particular attention to the light tones of pink, yellow and aqua, up to the more intense ones of orange, red, green and turquoise. Also this palette, like the others, interprets a moment of the day, the central one, the hottest, brightest and most vivid.

Structures and weights

Light structures, with fluid and natural hand feels prevail, wavy fabrics, starting from simple construction effects up to the more complex techniques of seersucker and wrinkle look, obtained mechanically or by the use of special yarns irregularly placed in the fabric. Seersucker, one of the season themes, creates mixed up stripes, wavy, for a lightness and softness effect interpreting an easy shirt, practical, informal, with a modern and dynamic look.

Tessitura Monti also revised the classic themes through the proposal ‘More than Classic’, a collection of structured fabrics as an imitation of the basket weave and dobby, with tridimensional effects. A renewed classic, of new generation, a true desire of evolution, translating the will of change towards a comfortable look, for a customer loving convenience, elegance and dynamism through garments suitable for different occasions.

The Basket Weave proposal includes new bases, where small seersucker effects liven up surfaces. Fabrics are plated with delavé pigment dyeing, whose color gradually fades away up to get the definitive nuance, giving life to a completely renewed interpretation

of basket weave, with light variations, structures and stripe effects.

Jersey fabrics, plains and printed, for a plated chromatic effect, where T-shirts and polo-shirts are the tradition, whereas shirts are the innovation. A jersey shirt, soft and at the same time stable, made with 60 yarn count, for fabrics with an innovative structure and classic designs, original and trendy. Compact and twisted yarns, very fine (120/2), light but resistant, for an informal and comfortable look.

Linen, essential in a summer proposal, remains a noble fabric, a seasonal musthave, for its undiscussed characteristics of purity, freshness and lightness. In contrast to cottons, Tessitura Monti also offers a wide range of linen blends.

Textures and Graphics

Stripes, expressing themselves through a new and dynamic behavior, varying from the bold monochromatic ones, more marked and defined, to the thinner and refined ones, from the horizontal ones, with a shady degradé effect, to the hidden ones, designed by structures creating plays of light and shadow. Faux unis, micro-effects and geometries, moving on surfaces to create wavy and irregular effects. Micro checks and tartans in unexpected combinations.

Print is for this season still an important theme and enriches products with high quality and added value thanks to its application on yarn-dyed fabrics.

Micro prints imitating yarn-dyed fabrics up to more important dimensions; embroidery playing with prints and fil-coupéproposing tropical and nautical designs.

Indian denim chalks out a growth story despite challenges

The Indian denim market is growing at a phenomenal rate. Experts say this growth will keep churning as more and more players enter this space. With some of the best machines in the world while producing their own yarns and blends and also wellrenowned for their complete finishing, most leading Indian denim fabric manufacturers export to premium international brands such as Jack & Jones, Zara, Gap, Polo Ralph Lauren, Diesel, Marlboro Classic, Mustang Germany, Levi’s, Tommy Hilfiger and Wrangler among others. Some experts say, India contributes 10 per cent of the world’s demand, which is around 7 billion meters. As far as fabric quality is concerned, we are comparable to the best in the world.

While emerging as a strong global player, domestic demand too has seen a surge, Today, the reach of denim has gone beyond big cities to small towns and rural areas.

India commands around 10 per cent of the international market capacity

Denim industry’s growth in India is 18 to 20%

Global market is growing at 3 to 4%

India contributes two per cent growth to the global denim market

Indian denim fabric export largely is to Bangladesh

Nearly 85 per cent consumption is in the menswear category

Denim is facing challenges from saris, suits et al in women’s category

The contribution of women segment is barely 10% of overall Integrated manufacturing is the need of hour

Denim holds universal appeal across age groups and class. Bringing newer trends, finishes and colours season on season, the industry is up to capture growth horizons in a big way, write Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

Denim has become a wardrobe staple for both men and women across age groups.

The trend never seems to get over. “While people in my generation hesitate to wear it, and if they do, they have denim for casual occasions. But youngsters have grown up wearing denim, the current generation; don’t mind using denim for formal occasions. Even the formal segment which was untouched by denim until now has seen denim percolating in lines. These are positive signs for the denim industry. There is hardly any area, be it sports, active or swimwear, denim has not made inroads in. Denim is poised to be the most popular fabric in India,” explains R S Singh, Business Head, Blue Blends India.

Tracking demand trends

The demand for denim for the last 30 years has grown and this trend will continue. Denim has created space for itself by replacing existing products and this caused a dramatic growth in denim sector. Especially, in the last 10-15 years, denim has gained a momentum. “If we break this 30 years’ period into two halves, you can see the growth rate has been far better and faster in the second half as compared to the first half. These 30 years can be summed up by describing the first half as the period of consolidation and the second half as the period of growth,” says Singh. Currently the Indian denim industry stands at 1.2 billion metres per annum. Indeed, it is growing however, the future is not easy to predict, as there is enough demand and supply. Demand is growing anywhere between 1215 per cent per annum and this pace is likely to continue.

In the same vein, Govind Sharda, CEO, Vishal Fabrics (Chiripal Group) explains, “The denim market in India is growing at a CAGR of around 18-20 per cent. The growth rate looks good but per capita consumption is still negligible. It is point three to four pairs of jeans per year. Whereas in West, consumption is around eight to nine pairs a year but the growth rate there remains

between three to four per cent. It is because these markets are mature and growth rates are determined by the maturity level of the market.”

India commands around 10 per cent of the international market capacity. Comparing our growth, which stands at about 18 to 20 per cent, with international market which is growing at 3 to 4 per cent, India is contributing two per cent growth to global denim market. Of course, growth rate is decent in the global market also. Denim holds universal appeal and is used by every age group and class.

Subir Mukharjee, Business Head, Bhaskar Denim points out denim segment is becoming mature. “Mills are getting better and the number of mills gone up. Earlier only four to five companies were the main players in the market, now a lot on manufacturing is happening. Fashion-oriented products are coming into the market, which is bringing in growth for the segment.”

Challenges and the way around them

The challenge denim industry faces today is the demand-supply gap. The industry is facing oversupply issues. Demand is growing but supply has been growing more in the last five-six years. Production is constantly growing for the last 15 years. Demand supply gap has caused profitability issues while competition increased manifold. However, on the bright as competition rises it helps improve processes and practices across the industry and innovation and creativity gets a boost. “About a decade ago, there were few mills, which would try to tap overseas markets, especially the newer ones. Because supply gap was so big that it was much more profitable to sell domestically than export. There was hardly any motivation for them to go overseas,” highlights Singh.

Added to that, Singh informs, labour and pollution norms are very stringent,

Sustainability is important, but the approach towards is not correct. If you look at China, they are growing with sustainability.

However, Sharda doesn’t feel the industry faces too many challenges. The only thing we need to keep tab on is the customer, anything can be sold as long as it is aligned to customer’s needs. The only challenge is controlling cost so that one remains profitable and runs business sustainably, Sharda says. For Mukharjee, overcapacity has become a major issue. Looking at denim as a growth area, people are continuously investing in it. Overcapacity leads to lower earnings, and that going to happen, he opines.

Moreover, lack of vertically integrated denim manufacturing units in India is another bane. While denim fabric sale to the end customer is low as ultimately it’s the garment that is sold. So if manufacturing fabrics and garments are not done at the same pace, issues are bound to happen, feels Singh. Garmenting is critical is the critical thread in denim segment. As Singh says, “If 50 per cent of total mills become integrated, the scenario will be completely different. If organised players start venturing into this, the quality, quantity and capacities will improve. Finally, the consumer will be delighted and the market will be balanced.”

Competition from the neighbourhood India’s denim export is being swayed by the growth in RMG sector in Bangladesh. Today, Bangladesh has about 20 vertical mills, owned largely by garment manufacturers,

“The denim market in India is growing at a CAGR of around 18-20 per cent. The growth rate looks good but per capita consumption is still negligible. It is point three to four pairs of jeans per year. Whereas in West, consumption is around eight to nine pairs a year but the growth rate there remains between three to four per cent. It is because these markets are mature and growth rates are determined by the maturity level of the market.”

so India’s growth in export is fair good. Two

Govind Sharda CEO, Vishal Fabrics, (Chiripal Group)

“If 50 per cent of total mills become integrated, the scenario will be completely different. If organised players start venturing into this, the quality, quantity and capacities will improve. Finally, the consumer will be delighted and the market will be balanced,”

factors are important to compete globally: cost and quality. If both are maintained, growth is bound to happen, say experts. If issues are addressed well, Indian denim industry will mature in 10 years. Mukherjee says “China and Turkey are doing extremely well in the area of innovation. India is very protective in its approach when it comes global competition, our import duties are too high, if this is addressed, we can outdo anyone. Protectionism in labour and environment, are making us weaker. These bottlenecks have to go if we have to grow, we need to believe in free economic spirit.”

As competition increases firms are hard pressed to sell and survive, the overseas market is catching their attention. Denim exports are likely to go up in coming years and not only denim as a fabric but denim garments segment also is going to see growth in terms of exports. Sill this is not enough when we compare with countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh, with such a sound manufacturing base and resources. Whatever we are doing as an industry is insignificant. Indian denim segment is not living up to its potential, and neighbouring countries have gone far ahead. With competition, under pressure, Indian industry too has started giving its best shot and exploring foreign markets.

Giving a perspective into the cultural shift between the countries, Sharda offers a different opinion, “If we look at the current denim market, 85 per cent consumption is in menswear category. Denim is facing

challenges from saris, suits and other ethnic and fusion wear in the womens’ category. The contribution of women’s segment is barely 10 per cent. Metros are still making progress in denim consumption in the women segment but small cities and towns are yet to gain momentum. With increasing reach of social media, things are improving in remote areas as well.”

Future gazing…

Indian industry is expected to continue growing simply because of denim’s popularity. There are other fabrics also such as polyester, viscose etc but denim is the best in the cotton segment in term of fashion. Within cotton, denim is vastly accepted, versatile and innovative fabric. Mukharjee says, the industry is growing at 10 to 12 per cent for the last few years. What rate it will grow in future is debatable but it will certainly

grow owing to denim’s penetration in the hinterland. “To overcome lower earning issues, the need of the hour is to bring product differentiation. Indian denim industry needs to be smart to grow well. It is still more focussed on wastage, manufactures wants consumer to pay the price and this is not the right approach.” While giving a holistic perspective, Singh concludes, “India should work on its strengths. Make in India, textile should be given preference above all.”

“Mills are getting better and the number of mills gone up. Earlier only four to five companies were the main players in the market, now a lot on manufacturing is happening. Fashionoriented products are coming into the market, which is bringing in growth for the segment.”

R S Singh Business Head, Blue Blends India

Subir Mukharjee Business Head, Bhaskar Denim

Blue Blends

Continues its denim’s success story

Blue Blends has created a niche in India with its exclusive line of Denims. Competing with top denim makers, it has managed to create its own space in this competitive market. Ajay Goswami and Prerna Sharma write about the company’s success with the wonder fabric

Known as the evergreen fashion icon of all seasons, denim has sustained leadership position in the ever expanding apparel segment. Riding on innovative experimentation with fits, colours and styles, denim has been a consumers’ delight. Having said that, India is still developing as a fashion hub and companies are learning through experiments. One company making a mark in this burgeoning industry full of promising potential is Blue Blends. The company with a rich history and a passion to always offer the customers something new is set to carve a niche in this evergreen denim domain.

Blue Blends (India) has been manufacturing this “denim – the wonder fabric “ since 1995. The founder of the group, Anand Arya, Chairman & Managing Director is a first-generation industrialist who has shown phenomenal drive as well as calibre to put Blue Blends on fast track growth path. Today, it is counted among the leading textiles’ manufacturers of the country.

Denim’s popularity surges ahead

To begin with, denim in India was known as a metros’ product, it was unaffordable as production was limited, making it out of reach for common man. But then as things progressed and manufacturing and supply expanded, economy range of products were introduced, denim gained traction. This development has happened majorly in last 10 to 15 years, industry has seen a lot of innovative developments. Today, this fabric has trickled down to small cities and rural areas alike, everybody is wearing denim. While earlier, it was purely a men’s fabric, now women denim ranges are flourishing with the introduction of stretchable fabrics in denim. Most women from the age of five to 45 have denim as a staple in their wardrobes. It is preferable as bottom wear, but Denim top wear is also getting popular.

Talking about kids, they can hardly do without denim. “People from my generation still hesitate to wear it, and if they do,

Denim has gained traction in India due to its comfort, versatility and innovations

There is a big demand-supply mismatch, hampering growth

Garments production is not keeping pace with Fabric manufacturing.

Companies are exploring global markets with low domestic demand

Organised players need to play a bigger role

Focus on developing vertically integrated denim manufacturing plants

they will be having denim for casual wear predominantly. But youngsters of current generation, who have grown up wearing denim, will not mind using denim for formal purposes also. So formal wear segment which has been untouched by denim until now has been seeing penetration of it. These are the positive signs for the denim industry. Except sportswear, nightwear, innerwear & swimwear, denim has made inroads into almost all the segments. People are wearing denim for marriages (ceremonial wear) too. Denim is poised to be the most popular fabric in India,” avers RS Singh, Business Head, Blue blends India Ltd.

Tracking demand trends

The demand for denim in the last 30 years has grown and this trend will continue. Denim has grown as we have an evergrowing population plus it has replaced conventional bottomwear products and this caused a dramatic growth in the sector. Especially, in the last 10-15 years, denim has gained momentum. “If we break 30 years’ Denim

RS Singh Business Head

We don’t have many vertically integrated denim manufacturing units in India. “When there is so much growth in this segment, why don’t we grow in organised garmenting ? Customers don’t buy fabric it is ultimately garment that is sold. Denim cant be stitched by the neighbourhood tailors. So, if we manufacture fabrics and garments are not being made out of them at the same pace, issues are bound to happen,” he observes. It clearly shows garmenting is critical in this field. “If 50 per cent of our total mills go for forward-integration, the scenario will be very exciting. If organised players start venturing into this, the quality, quantity, accuracy & logistics will improve to a great extent. Consumers will be benefitted and the markets will be expand beyond Indian shores for us.

The market is still maturing and it is not too demanding. If you offer quality at an affordable price, customers will be too pleased to grab it. India is still at fashion infancy stage and we are learning by experiments.

Product portfolio

As trends keep changing, we go by the consumer trends, and keep adding every month. Internationally, there are new themes which emerge every season. So, we focus on developing customer oriented products. I would say our USP is to offer products that are market oriented.

We are into denim fabrics and readymade garments are only a very small portion of portfolio. We have a small garment manufacturing unit which functions as a testing laboratory for some Indian brands.

The trend keeps- on changing. So, this season we are inclined towards structured denims, dobbies designs and Knitted denims

Stretch denim is the core of the Indian denims. It’s a huge market but also very competitive. The margins are under pressure because so many new players are there. For Denims, it’s cheap affordable and huge volumes are available.

Distribution

In India we sell it to the dealers. And those dealers sell it to the Readymade garment manufactures. RMG is 100 per cent locally. For some consumers it has to go directly via various channels like importers, traders and dealers. There are so many bands and titles. It all works at the local level.

Direct sales are also part of our distribution channel. In the A and B category brands it is around 40 per cent. We have 25 per cent export, and around 35-40 per cent domestic supply. We are all over the world, be it Turkey, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Latin America.

history into two halves, one can see growth rate has been far steeper in the second half as compared to the first half. In the first half, growth was not much because people were not aware about the product, technological infrastructure was slowly developing, and skilled professionals were scarce. Then, markets were also warming up to it. These 30 years can be summed up by describing the first half as the period of experimentation and the second half as period of growth,” explains Singh.

Currently the Indian denim industry stands at 1.2 + billion metres per annum. It is growing at a fast pace. The future is not easy to predict but one thing is certain, there is enough growth in demand to sustain the sector. The demand for denim is growing around 12-15 per cent per annum and this pace is likely to continue.

Surmounting challenges

Singh says, the challenge the denim industry is facing in short term is the demand supply gap. There is a bit of oversupply. Demand is growing steadily but supply has outgrown demand in last few years. New capacities are consistently coming in for the last 15 years. One reason for the fast growth is probably government policies also (TUFS), though demand is the primary reason for

growth, growth always follows demand. “Demand supply gap has caused profitability concerns, competition has heated up. This is likely to make the industry increasingly competitive. There is always a bright side with growing competition, processes and practices improve across the industry. It fosters innovation and creativity. About a decade ago, only a few mills, would try to tap overseas markets, especially the newer areas. Supply gap was big and it was much more profitable to sell domestically than export. There was hardly any motivation for mills to go export,” Singh opines.

Singh points out today labour policy is prohibitive and pollution norms are very stringent. Sustainability is important, but the entire approach towards it needs an overhaul. China has set an example of industrial growth by creating adequate infrastructure in place for the industries to perform. In India, it is very difficult for a garment manufacturing industry to comply all the norms as it makes the installation & operational costs of a project unaffordable. The government can help provide it a push by developing garments’ clusters, with the entire infrastructure and pollution control measures in place. Singh says urgent policy measures are needed to bring in organised sector in garment manufacturing. “The market is slowly maturing and it is not very demanding. If you offer quality at an affordable price, customers will be too pleased to grab it. India is still at a fashion infancy stage and we are learning by experiments.”

Growing competition

Singh says as competition is increasing firms are hard pressed to sell and survive, overseas markets are catching their attention. Denim exports are likely to consistently in coming years. Not only denim fabrics but also denim garments exports is also picking up consistently. “However, the volumes are not enough when compared to countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh, which have a sound manufacturing base and resources. Whatever we are doing as an industry (in exports) is insignificant. Denim garments’ manufacturing has not actualised its potential, neighbouring countries have gone far ahead to gain foot hold in major international markets. With growing competition (within India) and China becoming expensive, Indian industry has started responding and exploring foreign markets.”

He feels denim industry in India is likely to grow continuously in the years to come as the fabric is best suited for Indian climate being cotton dominated. There are other cotton fabrics available, but denim is perceived as the best in cotton segment for its high fashion quotient. Within cottonfabrics, denim is vastly accepted as a versatile and innovative fabric. This is why probably demand for denim would continue to grow.

Singh says the “Textiles sector is divided into two parts – fabric and apparels. If apparels segment doesn’t support growth in fabric production, problems are likely to happen. In the case of denim, this is more critical. Fabric production is enough but apparel manufacturing is a weak-link in India. So, there is a demand-supply mismatch in the denim sector.” Moreover, increasing capacities of denim fabric is easy for us because it is a reasonably automated process, we can expand much easily. With suitable investment, we are able to raise production in multiples of 10 mmpa of denim fabrics but garmenting is labour oriented sector and is a weak link in India. There are labour laws and myriad policy issues, which are hampering growth of the segment,” he feels.

And goes on to say we don’t have many vertically integrated denim manufacturing units in India. “When there is so much growth in this segment, why don’t we grow in organised garmenting ? Customers don’t buy fabric it is ultimately garment that is sold. Denim cant be stitched by the neighbourhood tailors. So, if we manufacture fabrics and garments are not being made out of them at the same pace, issues are bound to happen,” he observes. It clearly shows garmenting is critical in this field. “If 50 per cent of our total mills go for forwardintegration, the scenario will be very exciting. If organised players start venturing into this, the quality, quantity, accuracy & logistics will improve to a great extent. Consumers will be benefitted and the markets will be expand beyond Indian shores for us,” feels Singh.

What lies ahead…

While giving a holistic perspective, Singh concludes, “India should work on its strengths, when we talk about ‘Make in India’ movement, textile/apparels should have been given preference over others. It is the second largest employment-generator after agriculture. We have a surplus in every fibre (raw material) in the country, except wool. We have production capabilities. Textiles sector has not got its due in ‘Make in India’ initiative, ignoring textile and focussing on other sectors in this initiative just surprises me.”

Denim Fabric Innovations

With the rise of athleisure styles, sales of activewear have skyrocketed and as a result, many retailers that sell items in denim fabric took a hit. However, now that many consumers are looking to put together outfits that are slightly dressier, yet still comfortable and casual, denim is once again capturing the public’s attention as a fashion classic.

One example of an innovative new product is Dish & DU/ER’s ‘Stay Dry’ denim, which is capable of repelling everything from spills and stains to wet weather conditions. Consumers are also becoming intrigued by denim once more with trousers that resemble sweatpant styles and even button-up suits.

Other unique styles include dual-tone treatments, patchwork and excessive bleaching, as well as the inclusion of denim details on everything from sunglasses to shoes.

Ralph Lauren is Taking the “Canadian Tuxedo” to a New Level

By: Liam James Broadley

References: ralphlauren & gq

Gone are the days of the tacky denim suit. With this Ralph Lauren denim suit, the brand is taking the style of a “Canadian tuxedo” to a high-fashion level. Whether its a night at the red carpet or spicing up your work collection, denim suits are a must-have this season.

Ralph Lauren’s luxury menswear line Purple Label worked its magic again, creating a perfect blend of modern fashion and classic formal.

The ‘Nigel Denim Suit Jacket’ suits offer a spin on the classic formal suit for those who are bold enough to try something new. With material made in Italy Polo the the stylings and cuts of these denim suits are executed in a way that fit the Purple Label perfectly.

Khloé Kardashian’s Good American Jeans are Made for All Body Types

By: Lana References: shop.nordstrom & goodamerican

The Good American Jeans line that was designed by Khloé Kardashian and Emma Grede are finally here.

These jeans were made specifically for all different body types, with sizes ranging from zero to 24. Their biggest issue with regular jeans was that not every lady out there can find her perfect jean size. So they decided to team up and fight for all body types by designing jeans that don’t specifically target one body type, but all body types out there.

You can find these jeans not only in different sizes, colors, styles and designs. The jeans range from slouchy boyfriend styles, to distressed and classic black skinnies to the perfect pair of white jeans.

The Spring/Summer MISBHV Collection Edgily Adapts Retro Styles

By: Riley von Niessen

References: misbhv & fuckingyoung.es ‘MISBHV,’ or ‘MISBEHAVE,’ is a contemporary fashion label that appeals to consumers with an appreciation for goth, grunge and punk culture.

For its Spring/Summer 2016 collection, the brand intermingles vintage and futuristic styles. To do so, it makes use of underground streetwear pieces and even some that are a little more business-savvy. What stands out the most however is its inclusion of unconventional trench coats -which are constructed from what looks to be PVC fabric.

This is also used for black wide-legged pants as well -- an eye-catching design that’s enhanced by cargo-style pockets, white stitching and a long pink chain that dangles from the waist. In addition to these looks, the new MISBHV collection draws from motorcycle culture as well, with emblazoned leather jackets and distressed denim pieces also featured.

Alex Kennedy’s ALXVNDRA Capsule Collection Offers One of a Kind TwoTone Jeans

By: Alyson Wyers

References: shopsuperstreet & refinery29

Although these pants might have a DIY look to them, these two-tone jeans are available for sale from Shop Super Street. Designed and handmade in the USA by Alex Kennedy, ALXVNDRA is a denim brand that offers two-tone jeans that give the appearance of two different pairs of jeans sewn together into one pair.

Six different styles can be purchased online, giving consumers multiple options, from light blue and gray to black on black and all sorts of medium washes in between. Made using vintage Levi’s, the clothing is made individually by Kennedy at part of a limited edition capsule collection. In addition to Shop Super Street in Los Angeles, the denim can be found exclusively at the ALXVNDRA showroom in Detroit.

Denim Trends

CAMO

Jacquard designs/ faded out all-over prints/ laser designs/ tone-on-tone patterns/ camo coatings/ fresh camo motifs/ structural & textureal depth & diversity.

CORD

Fine and chunky wale corduroys/ shirting & trousers weights/ horizontal cut pannelling/ tie - dye effects/ washed down colour/ natural wear fading/ rip details/ lasered velvets/ cord-effect flock printing.

BLACK & GREY

Almost white through to ultra black/ patchy surface treatments/dirty coatings/ light & dark contrasts/urban camouflage effects/ workwear features/ nicks and small abrasions.

GREEN TINGED

Blue-greens/grey-greens/ olive-greens/ indigo peeking through/ intense green shading/ dry and sanded touch/ woven,

knit & jersey bases/green credentials too! (recycled garments: natural dyes etc)

3D TEXTURES

Pronunced diagonals/ zig-zag structures/ new weave techniques where the surface appears embossed/ pin-tuck effects/ structural diversity.

CRACKED LEATHER

Imperfect leather-effect coatings / bubbling,crackling finishes / surprise smallscale placements / oxblood over indigo / damaged& discoloured / dirt & tar.

FADE AWAY

Ultra-soft handles / tencel or modal blends / ombre fading effects / mellow shading / brushed backs / dialled down contrasts/ lighter weights.

Kingpins to launch new Denim trend initiative

Denim boutique trade show Kingpins is set to launch a new denim trend initiative which aims to showcases its exhibits denim fabrics. The new concept, which will be unveiled next season with Spring/Summer 2018 at Kingpins shows in New York, Amsterdam and Hong Kong brings together a comprehensive seasonal denim forecast of fabric, fit and finish with a curate and styled garment installation to showcase the season’s forecast trends.

Kingpins has teamed up with Amy Leverton, denim consultant and denim expert for this new initiative, who will share her expertise in denim forecasting and analysis. Elevation is said to be a longtime friend and collaborator or the Kingpins Show and will present the trends at Kingpins SS18 shows and curate garment installations at each show. “Our opinion has always been that denim trends begin and end with fabric. Mills are the engine of innovation and inspiration in our industry,” said Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show in a statement.

“For many seasons we have fielded requests from attendees for more trendrelated information from a Kingpins perspective. At the same time, our amazing mills are hungry to showcase their offerings in a way that is new, that is native to the Kingpins ethos and that allows them to participate in the trend conversation more immediately. By working with Amy and creating what is essentially a denim trend forecast with a corresponding inspirational installation that truly allows the mills’ innovation and creativity to shine through, we are connecting all the dots.”

Leverton will share her denim trend forecast each day at the Kingpins Shows in New York, Amsterdam and Hong Kong. Visitors are welcome to attend the presentations and visit the installations to see how Kingpins mills brought the trends to life. “I’ve been so inspired over the past six years working alongside the fantastic team at Kingpins and I’ve often considered the potential in uniting their

community of mills, finishers and wash houses to create something unique,” said Leverton.

“There is so much talent under one roof, so much innovation coming from these top industry players that if we can just showcase and contextualize that inspiration, we can create something fantastic. My aim is to unite the community and create the ultimate capsule collection that will inspire us all to start the S/S18 season with a bang.” The physical denim installation will become part of the show experience and offer inspiration for designer. To create the concept, Kingpins Show will work with Wink, an Amsterdambased “experience architects” from the Kingpins Amsterdam and WHY by Kingpins shows, to create a minimal but beautiful installations.

“From start to finish, designers, editors, merchandisers and creative directors shopping Kingpins Shows for fabric, inspiration and trend direction will have an entirely new experience going forward,” Olah said.

The top Denim fabric trends from Kingpins Amsterdam for S/S 2017

stretch denims like Invista’s revolutionary Hybrid technology concept. Calik has launched Elastech, a new stretch concept that guarantees superior performance in high-elastic stretch fabrics with minimal shrinkage and improved growth values. It also eliminates puckering effects, after prolonged washes and also helps brands to manage the manufacturing process better by decreasing size variances after finishing phases.

Ecofriendliness: a fixed idea

Denim Valley by Tejiods Royo has launched Amib-Wash, a new project in collaboration with Montega, Italian dyeing substance manufacturer and Lim, an Italian laundry. Their new project aims to offer garments treated with dyeing and finishing substances obtained from the process of natural renewable resources.

New visual effects

Lenzing presented special fibers that guarantee better color stability because they are dyed before their cellulosic fibers are extruded. This way their color remains the same after many washes.

Tejiods Royo developed a new devoré square effect applied on indigo fabrics that have a super soft touch and are characterized by new surface optics. By Maria Cristina Pavarini

The ultimate novelties for s/s 2017 focused on new fiber mixes for better interaction with the wearer, greater hype on stretch fabrics, and denims developed with the aim to better preserve the environment.

Hyperfunctionality is cool

The market is asking for always more multifunction and multipurpose products that can help the wearer feel and live better. Many manufacturers have disclosed their special new fiber blends. Among them ITV launched a new denim that also employs a small percentage of tearproof silver and, even if the garment is aged and carries breakings, the silver brightness of these fibers shines through the weave of fabric.

They also developed new denim mixing cotton with merino wool, cashmere, silk and hemp. Also Bossa developed their new own denim incorporating 15% silver fibers that protect the wearer from dangerous

radiations as those from cellular phones. Orta launched their Ortabluefrequency, a series of fabrics with high-tech performance such as for instance fabrics with over 30 UV ray sun protection, liquid resistance properties and moisture wicking properties. Berto launched their high strength lightweight Amstrong denim. It is a cotton fabric that looks like denim but incorporates Dyneema, a special high-tenacity, abrasion resistant, UVA and warmth protective polyester fiber that adds greater functional and comfort characteristics to this fabrics.

Canatiba launched its denim created in collaboration with Emana, special fiber whose interaction with body heath can help better blood circulation and help reducing cellulite.

More performance stretches out

More stretch developments were on show as presented by almost every company participating. Many launched multidirectional

Subir Mukharjee Business Head Bhaskar Denim

Bhaskar Denim

How do you see the Indian denim industry?

The industry has been growing at 10 to 12 per cent for the last few years. And it will grow continuously owing to denim’s penetration into hinterland. The Indian denim industry is going through a transformation phase. China and Turkey are doing extremely well in innovation. India is protective in its approach concerning labor and the environment. Protectionism makes us weak. Our import duties are too high. If these are addressed, we can outcompete anyone. These bottlenecks have to go if we have to grow. We need to believe in the free economic spirit.

Denim exports from India are being fuelled by growth in garmenting sector in Bangladesh. Today, Bangladesh has about 20 vertical mills, owned largely by garment manufacturers. Two factors play a big role for a sector to compete globally: cost and quality. If both are maintained, growth is yours. If these issues are addressed properly, the Indian denim industry will mature in 10 years. My concern is if China and Turkey are doing a good job in innovation, why don’t we? It is because there too much protectionism, and whatever the government is doing is not accessible to the right person.

Is the market growing?

Denim is growing, whether it is basic or fashion. Growth in big cities is driven by fashion products whereas small cities have demand for basic products. Retailers such as Pantaloons, Reliance, Big Bazaar etc are selling fashion products at very reasonable prices. The core in India is unlike core in the US. Denim is taken as a fashion product in India. The denim market is maturing. Mills are better today, numbers have increased. Earlier only four or five big players were in a good shape now the situation has improved on the manufacturing side. Fashion-oriented products are coming into the market.

What are the challenges?

Competition is severe and not only in pricing but in designing. Mills are coming up with good designs, though quality is still not up to the mark. The lower strata of pyramid is doing good in terms of designing. As with any growing sector, investment is flowing into the sector. But with more investment coming in, overcapacity has become a major issue. Overcapacity leads to lower earnings, and that is for sure going to happen.

So what needs to be done?

To overcome lower earnings issue, the need of the hour is to bring product differentiation. The more unique a product, more you can be a viable venture. In the current phase, you can attract money only by standing out from the crowd. The Indian denim industry needs to be smart to grow well. It is still focused on waste. Manufacturers want consumers to pay the price. This is something not in the right direction.

Has demonetisation had an effect?

The unstructured segment of apparel retail which was 70 to 80 per cent of the total denim market has been badly hit due to demonetisation because it runs completely on cash transactions. So this is a major hit from which the industry is still struggling. Today, demand is lower than it was pre demonetisation.

“The denim market is maturing in India”

Govind Sharda Chief Executive Officer

Vishal Fabrics (Chiripal)

What accounts for denim’s popularity?

Denim holds universal appeal and is used by every age group and class. Denim applications are increasing. Earlier it was mainly used in bottoms but now the use has gone far beyond. Today, we have denim shirtings, bags, shoes and multiple accessories. Denim has a distinct advantage of being predominantly cotton so the hygiene factor also exist. Denim has survived the last two centuries, so we don’t foresee any competition for this segment.

How do you see the denim market in India?

Since the segment is continuously evolving, we see a great future for this particular category in the next 10 to 15 years. Denim production capacity in India is close to 1.3 billion meters. The denim market in India is growing at a CAGR of around 18 to 20 per cent. Growth rate looks fabulous but per capita consumption is still negligible in India. It is point three to four pairs of jeans per year. Whereas in western markets, the consumption of denim is somewhere around eight to nine pairs a year.

What are the denim styles?

Earlier denim was available in typical indigo blue shades, now it comes in almost every colour. So the monotony factor has been taken care of. Basic denim have always been in the market but looking at the youth today and their aspiration levels, fashion denim is seeing terrific growth. The share of basic denim would be around 20 per cent and rest is shared by the fashion denim segment.

What are the challenges?

If we look at the Indian denim market, 85 per cent of consumption is done by men. That means 50 per cent of the population does 85 per cent of the consumption. The contribution of women’s segment is barely 10 per cent. Denim is facing challenges from saris, suits and other ethnic and fusion wear in women’s wear. Metros are still good in women’s denim consumption but small cities are yet to gain momentum. With increasing reach of social media things are improving in remote areas also. There is consistent growth. The only challenge is to control cost so that one remains profitable and runs business sustainably

Where does India figure in the world denim?

India accounts for around 10 per cent of international denim capacity. Comparing our growth, which stands at about 18 to 20 per cent, with international market which is growing by three to four per cent, India is contributing two per cent to the growth of the global denim market.

Is the textile sector as a whole growing?

We do not see ground realities. Targets are not realistic. Textile upgradation fund schemes are launched and then withdraw. How can you expect to grow in this policy environment? Profitability is under pressure. Companies are living on less than 10 per cent margins. Stringent labour laws are hampering growth. If the industry is going through rough times, how can we expect to provide better income options to labor? The private sector does not get subsidies. If labour laws are aligned with international practices, the Indian textile sector may expect growth. Otherwise it is going to be very challenging.

“India accounts for around 10 per cent of international denim capacity”

From high-end to mass appeal linen comes of age in India

The popularity of linen fabric in India has been growing. Seen as high end fabric earlier it’s now more commonplace with brands and designers creating exclusive linen collections. Despite double digit growth, manufacturers rue linen faces higher duties as it is completely based on fiber imports. Ubiquitous sale of fake linen too is hampering growth, write Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

The various inherent advantages of linen such as smoothness, coolness, lint-free, softer over longer duration, are driving the global linen fabric market. Moreover, the use of linen fabric as a style statement in developing countries such as Brazil, India and China is boosting global linen market. Linen fabric made from fibres of the flax plant are natural absorbent and known for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

These unique properties give it an edge, and linen’s popularity has grown in Asia Pacific and the Middle East markets. Europe is the largest producer and consumer of linen fabric in the world. It is then followed by Asia Pacific and North America. Italy and Belgium are leading producers of linen fabric. China and Australia are biggest markets of linen in

The size of linen market is around Rs 800 cr; growing at 10 per cent per year

In 60s and 70s, linen was synonymous with home furnishing

Linen has become popular in fashion and apparel sector in a big way

In India pure linen suit can cost you up to Rs 16,000, while 100 per cent linen shirt can cost between Rs 3000 to 8,000

Designers like to use linen and blends have a good market

Ladies woven garments segment will grow in linen in future

The share of home furnishing is low, about 5 per cent of the total linen

Linen

Asia Pacific whereas the US is the largest market for high quality linen fabrics in North America.

Global Market Scenario

The size of linen market is around Rs 800 crores, growing at 10 per cent per year. The growth in cotton fabrics such as Giza has eaten into the market for linen. Worldwide production of pure linen yarn stands at 120 k metric tons per annum. As per 2015 figures in India, it was 18 k metric tons per annum. The good thing about India is out of its total import about 70 per cent is consumed within the domestic market. Comparatively in China, 80 per cent of its total linen is for international market.

The import of yarn in 2015 was 1,400 metric tons per month. Compared to this, in 2016, growth has come down by 35 per cent. “Since prices are now normal, growth is returning back, we hope to see 10-15 per cent growth year on year in the next five years,” says Manish Mehta, MD, Sundaram Texventures LLP. Today linen’s market price stands at Rs 600 per kg, another interesting feature of linen is that it can be blended easily with cotton, polyester, viscose and many other fabrics. Pure linen’s retail price in the market is currently around Rs 1,200 per metre while the blended linen is available in the range Rs 400 and upwards depending on the ratio of linen.

The Asia Pacific market for linen fabric is growing in double digits and is expected to grow at higher rate in the next few years, owing to rising purchasing power of consumers in developing countries such as India and China. European and North American market is expected to grow at moderate rates over. Linen absorbs moisture 20 times more than its actual weight without being uncomfortable to the user, one of the biggest advantages of the fabric is that it is naturally anti-allergic and anti-bacterial. Largely a European fabric, linen is grown

in Russia, Canada, France, Belgium etc. It requires certain climatic conditions to grow at its best. Russia has made good strides in linen fibres production. European countries grow the fibres for export purpose. European fibres are considered the best in terms of quality, as they are long in length. The longer the fibre, better the quality of fabric. Indeed, India and China have made attempts to grow it, China grows a lot but it is not considered as best quality fibre.

Highlighting trends, Rabindra Mohan, CEO, Linen Vogue & Giza Classe’, Bombay Rayon Fashions explains, “National and regional brands have different requirements. While regional brands are more into value added products, national brands prefer decent and sober products. Regional brands look for embroidery, prints, different fabrics etc. National players are more formal and

simpler in their product requirements.” National brands plan almost one year ahead and expect manufacturers to forecast new trends. They come up with their own surveys and forecasts. Mohan points out “We are always expected to be updated with trends, and since designers also visit global markets, they have their own ideas and predictions. The challenge is to be updated in terms of innovations in designs and fabrics. Sometimes brands agree to our forecasts and innovations. Sometime they need what they want and that’s how it works. In the Indian market, we are the most innovative brand in this segment. We don’t offer regular products and create something special and unique.”

Rabindra Mohan, CEO, Linen Vogue & Giza Classe, Bombay Rayon Fashions

“National and regional brands have different requirements. While regional brands are more into value added products, national brands prefer decent and sober products. Regional brands look for embroidery, prints, different fabrics etc. National players are more formal and simpler in their product requirements.”

Adding further, he says, “National brands mostly opt for blended linen due to pricing factors, cotton blend is of course the biggest segment. We do other blends also such as modal linen blend.” A few national brands prefer pure linen owing to the cost factor. A pure linen shirt is not always less than Rs 3,000, so they try to keep the product in the set price point. While regional brands like to take pure linen. Reason: its less expensive and regional brands margins are low so it suits them.

Giving his insights on global trends Mehta says, “In Europe, linen is mostly used for knits in women’s segment. Now the trend is catching up in Bangladesh and India as well. Knits segment offers an opportunity for linen to grow. Since, we follow European countries, the trend is likely to gain traction in Asian markets but still the segment will grow in a limited way, owing to challenges such as availability of raw material and cost.”

Terming linen a designers’ delight, Deepa Chandran, GM, Aditya Birla Fashion and

Retail says, “It’s a delight because of matchless properties. It is expensive and used by people in premium class such as politicians primarily. It is considered a status symbol and consumption is low. Considered a niche fabric in India, majority still don’t use it. Aditya Birla is operating through 42 countries, having diverse businesses. Linen fabric for Aditya Birla is produced in Kolkata’s, Jayashree Textiles exclusively for in-house. We have exclusive linen stores across the country. We retail linen through 121 EBOs and over 1,000 MBOs on a Pan India basis. We are the largest linen producers despite the fact the entire raw material is imported.”

Mass appeal still far away, fakes a bane

Owing to the high price factor, linen has not been able to gain mass appeal. It’s considered niche fabric. Giving a perspective, Mohan observes, “Acceptance has increased a lot. In the last 5-6 years, growth has been terrific. Earlier, it was

taken as a fabric of the elite class but now demand is trickling down to masses, which is a good sign. Growth has been organic, the market will grow and competition will become fierce in the days to come as the number of players in linen is rising. During early days, linen was available in black and white, then came dyed, checks, stripes and now prints.”

Countering Mohan’s perspective, Mehta opines linen can’t be a mass fabric at all. “It will remain a fashion fabric even in future owing to limitations in production. It is grown in France and Belgium and some parts of Holland because climatic conditions for the crops cultivation are not favourable anywhere. China receives 90 per cent of crop production for spinning purpose. Even European countries import yarn from China.”

Talking about production, Chandran says that there are many players in the market currently who produce the fabric. It’s suitable for Indian weather conditions but the level of awareness is low in the country and many duplicates also exist.

“Many blends are marketed as pure line fabrics, which does not give the full advantage to the user, what goes against it is it is hardly understood properly in India, many fabrics similar to linen are promoted. Buyers who understand contribute to the growth of the fabric. The only challenge is cost and the presence of look alikes sold at the same price as pure linen. Therefore, consumers do not understand the real properties of linen. In fact, it is difficult to identify pure linen from lookalike linen.”

Things are expected to improve after GST is implemented. Linen manufacturers rue the governement’s one sided focus on agriculture sector which is hampering growth of linen fabric in India. The world is moving towards mill made fabrics while we are still promoting cotton, the say. The market is

hoping to see some positive policy changes in future. “Moreover, the mindset of Indian people is a big issue, only spinning sector is doing well in India, as far as weaving and processing is concerned, advancement is dismal, the government should promote these segments to bring more growth in the sector,” opines Mehta. “There is a huge duty of 30 per cent on linen imports. With GST there will be a rationalisation. Higher duties are imposed to favour cotton. Since linen is seen as higher end fabric, it has 5 per cent more duty on it,” he adds.

Deepa Chandran, GM, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail

“Many blends are marketed as pure line fabrics, which does not give the full advantage to the user, what goes against it is it is hardly understood properly in India, many fabrics similar to linen are promoted. Buyers who understand contribute to the growth of the fabric. The only challenge is cost and the presence of look alikes, sold at the same price as pure linen. Therefore, consumers do not understand the real properties of linen. In fact, it is difficult to identify pure linen from lookalike linen.”

Shape of things to come

While challenges are abound for linen to become a mass product, Chandran is optimistic about future growth. She says there is a huge shift in usage of linen from home furnishing to fashion in the last 20 years.

“The presence of many global brands, is helping linen in fashion as well. International tourism is supposed to contribute a lot in linen consumption in India. We travel a lot and see that China is doing everything in large scale and volumes. China exports a lot of linen, the fabric has a lot of potential and India can capitalise on it. The usage area of linen is wide. It is not limited to fashion, apparel and home furnishing but holds possibility for many industrial applications too.”

Lincel: When linen gets intimate with Lyocell

Kingdom of China linen through ‘Mumbai Day’ installed spindles over 100,000, with an annual capacity linen yarn, one of the largest linen yarn spinning shares 15 per cent in China’s domestic linen yarn global market. Kingdom shares around 50 per cent of China to the high-end markets such as Italy, Japan, countries in EU.” exclaims Ren.

Mohan sums up by saying, “The colour factor will drive linen. Printed linen continues to grow. Jacquard weaves hold a good potential. Stretchable linen and prints are here to stay for the next couple of years, and obviously bright colours will dominate the market.”

Manish Mehta, MD, Sundaram Texventures LLP

“In Europe, linen is mostly used for knits in women’s segment. Now the trend is catching up in Bangladesh and India as well. Knits segment offers an opportunity for linen to grow. Since, we follow European countries, the trend is likely to gain traction in Asian markets but still the segment will grow in a limited way, owing to challenges such as availability of raw material and cost.”

Promoted by Manish Mehta, Managing Director, Sundaram Texventure LLP, is the sole agents of Kingdom Holdings for India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Kingdom manufactures yarns at its plants in China among other countries for the consumption of

A yarns from 9s to 46s counts and being marketed by Texventures in India and overseas markets. Lincell is an intimate blend of two fibers: linen, which is extracted from stem of and Lyocell, which is a regenerated fiber made out of wood pulp of Eucalyptus tree. Lincell yarn, due to its on the in the of and whereas retain the look, luster, brilliance, creasing and feel of linen and handle, drape of Lyocell.

Lincell and its porperties

Lincell yarns and fabrics possess certain unique properties which come from intrinsic properties of Linen and Lyocell. These are: Visual Treat: Linen is the most luxurious natural fiber and when it is blended with other luxurious fiber Lyocell (High Tenacity High Wet Modulus Viscose Fiber) the fabric made out of Lincell after proper dyeing and finishing looks as luxurious as pure linen. The structure of the fabric surface is just like pure linen due to high ratio of Refined Linen in it.

Sundaram Texventures

Throw light on the domestic linen market.

As far as linen as a fabric or yarn is concerned, its consumption has grown by 15 per cent CAGR from 2010 to 2016. Last year was the year of consolidation. Since consumption worldwide was not increasing and fabric and yarn prices were rising, there was a dip in demand in India a couple of years back. It resulted in slow growth and was followed by a correction between October 2015 and 2016. The amount of correction was about 20 per cent.

What factors influence the market?

Import of yarn in 2015 was 1,400 metric tons per month. Compared to this, in 2016 growth has come down 35 per cent. Since prices are normal and growth is returning, we hope to see 10 to 15 per cent growth year on year in the next five years.

Promoted by Manish Mehta, Managing Director, Sundaram Texventure LLP, is the sole agents of Kingdom Holdings for India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Kingdom manufactures wet spun linen yarns at its plants in China among other countries for the consumption of textile industry worldwide.

Manish Mehta Managing Director

Is this possible considering the size of the market in India?

At one of its facilities in China, Kingdom refines flax fiber for cotton, wool and silk spinning systems. Sundaram Texventure offers this fiber for cotton spinning systems in India and also promoting and marketing a blend of their linen fiber blended with Lyocell fiber and marketing it as ‘Lincell Yarn.’ Lambodhrara Textiles, Palani is manufacturing Lincell yarns from 9s to 46s counts and being marketed by Texventures in India and overseas markets. Lincell is an intimate blend of two fibers: linen, which is extracted from stem of flax plant; and Lyocell, which is a regenerated fiber made out of wood pulp of Eucalyptus tree. Lincell yarn, due to its rich Linen composition and differential fineness of component fibers, has Linen on the surface in the form of small slubs and neps whereas Lyocell makes the core of the yarn. Thus the fabrics made out of Lincell yarns retain the look, luster, brilliance, creasing and feel of linen and handle, drape of Lyocell.

Lincell and its porperties

Linen is an expensive fabric compared to cotton. Normal linen fabric is three times as costly as cotton. Pure linen fabric is six times more expensive. The second bottleneck for growth is that it is taken as a summer fabric. Also it is still considered as a men’s fabric in India. It is confined to shirting and this is the biggest bottleneck for linen’s growth. Out of total linen consumption, men’s segment contributes 80 per cent. A lot of developments are going on to make linen a women-oriented fabric, too but viability is still an issue for manufacturers and consumers.

Is there any possibility of it becoming a mass fabric?

Lincell yarns and fabrics possess certain unique properties which come from intrinsic properties of Linen and Lyocell. These are: Visual Treat: Linen is the most luxurious natural fiber and when it is blended with other luxurious fiber Lyocell (High Tenacity High Wet Modulus Viscose Fiber) the fabric made out of Lincell after proper dyeing and finishing looks as luxurious as pure linen. The structure of the fabric surface is just like pure linen due to high ratio of Refined Linen in it.

Linen cannot be a mass fabric it will remain a fashion fabric in future owing to limitations on production side. It can be grown in France and Belgium and some parts of Holland. Climatic conditions for its cultivation are not favourable elsewhere. China receives 90 per cent of the crop production for spinning purposes. Even European countries import yarn from China. In European countries, linen is mostly used for knits in women’s segment. Now the trend is catching up in Bangladesh and India also. Knits segment offers an opportunity for linen segment to grow. Since we follow European countries, the trend is likely to gain traction in Asian markets but still the segment will grow in a limited way, owing to challenges such as availability of raw material and cost.

What are linen’s growth prospects in India?

Ramesh Poddar from Arora and R Mishra- D Agrawal- Donear, Yogesh Vijay Puniyani and Vardhaman, Sunil Patil and Mills, Ashok Ramdham

Balachander were some of the included around 45 parts of India Mumbai,

Linen is used majorly for shirting in India, about 60 per cent, and the rest is for trousers, Bermudas and jackets. The share of home furnishing is very low, about five per cent of the total linen trade in the country. 100 per cent linen has not been used for the women’s segment but blended linen has been experimented on by a few manufacturers. Innovations are happening in linen in the area of dyeing and softening of the fabric. That is an ongoing process, Europe is leading this time and we are following the same thing as we do. Women’s woven garments segment will grow in linen in future. Efforts have been made to make the fabric affordable by blending linen with cotton, viscose and other fibers. The market for blended linen is huge. A good scope has been seen in spinning. Many companies in India are either increasing their capacities or getting into this.

enterprise in France, who spoke about ‘The Growth of Flax in Europe’. Talking about Kingdom’s expertise in linen, Ren said the company has more than 30 years of history, and started its linen business 16 years ago. “Kingdom people are dedicated in linen business with our enduring passion for pure linen. We constantly invest in advanced linen spinning technology to provide best

What is your take on fake linen fabrics?

The market for fake linen is two times bigger than actual market for linen. Linen is expensive so if a person wants to buy it in budget of Rs 800 or Rs 900, they will have opt for fake or a blended linen shirt. A big chunk of India comprises of middle class, who are fashion conscious and price sensitive.

‘Linen cannot be a mass fabric it will remain a fashion fabric’

Lincel: When linen gets intimate with Lyocell

‘Mumbai Day’ spindles over 100,000, with an annual capacity yarn, one of the largest linen yarn spinning 15 per cent in China’s domestic linen yarn market. Kingdom shares around 50 per cent of the high-end markets such as Italy, Japan, in EU.” exclaims Ren.

Rabindra Mohan CEO

Linen Vogue

Linen Vogue is three years old. Linen Vogue has the largest linen collection under one brand. We have almost every type of variety available with us, whether it is yarn dyed, prints, grey, embroidery or jacquards. We were the first in the domestic market to come out with ombre dyeing in linen. We are also doing one of the finest linens in India with 125 lea. We are also doing delabe, which is a different kind of dyeing. Being from the house of Bombay Rayon Fashions, we are doing quite good in prints, since Bombay Rayon has always been known for this.

How is the market for linen?

The market size of linen in India is somewhere about Rs 800 crores and growing by 10 per cent a year. In over the counter retail, the share of linen cotton fabric is negligible, not more than five per cent. Over the counter is about pure linen. In India and China , linen is consumed largely in a blended form.

How do you compare national and regional brands?

National brands are about blended linen. We have cotton blends, the biggest segment, but we do other blends also, like modal/ linen blends. Very few national brands prefer pure linen owing to the cost factor. A pure linen shirt is not less than Rs 3,000. So they try to keep the product in the set price point. Regional brands are about both pure linen and blended linen and both in an equal share. Regional brands are more into value added products, embroidery, prints, different fabrics etc. National brands are more about sober, formal and simpler products. Expectations related to margins are always low with regional brands, so they manage pure linen products easily. Pure linen is a low margin product.

How do you see the market for OTC retail?

We cater to about 3000 retailers through 11 distributors on a pan India basis. The demand for OTC retail comes from Tier II and III cities. India is a very diverse country, consumers’ tastes are different, body shapes are varied, so all that is required is to nurture this segment, invest in it if it has to grow. Now we have designers, boutique stores, customised clothing, so there is enough space for OTC retail to grow. Design institutes are flourishing, this is driving growth. Even big giants are having their counters in small cities.

Linen Vogue has already secured its place as number two in the market. We will focus further on readymade garments as well as OTC retail. We are planning a huge expansion in retail. We have eight stores until now and 200 more are lined up by the end of next year. We are targeting mainly Tier II and III cities.

What are the linen styles?

In the initial phase, linen was available in black and white. Then came dyed, checks, stripes and now prints. Linen is the ideal fabric for the Indian climate, it’s a natural fiber, its moisture absorption capacity and anti microbial properties are suited to the Indian climate. So growth is inevitable. The acceptance of linen has increased a lot in the last five or six years. Earlier it was seen as a fabric of the elite but now the demand is trickling down to the masses also. Growth has been organic, the market will grow. The colour factor will drive the market. Printed linen continues to grow, jacquard weaves hold good potential. Stretchable linen and prints are here to stay for the next couple of years.

What are the challenges?

Competition will become more fierce in the days to come. The number of players in linen is rising. The growth in cotton fabrics such as Giza has eaten into the market for linen. Linen is obviously a kind of product which requires fiber import. The scale of waste is very high from fiber to yarn; it is about 50 per cent. So linen will remain expensive. Since there are limitations in cultivations, this product will never be a mass category product. It is unlikely to be a low priced fabric.

“Linen will never be a mass category product”

Please take us through your linen line.

Sanjay K Jain Managing Director

TT Ltd

“We need to get our act together”

The Indian textile industry is one of the oldest industries in India. Can you give us a perspective of the industry?

We no doubt have a 12 per cent export share, a four per cent GDP share and employ 45 million people but we are still much below our potential. We need to rework our total strategy as a nation and develop a policy where we can leverage our competitive advantages rather than export them to our competitors.

We had it all -- most of the raw materials, PSF/VSF capacities, competitive labour, domestic market, MFA phase out, reasonable financing—yet could not build a robust industry to capture a substantial share of the global textile market except for the cotton yarn segment in the last two decades.

The industry has grown at the Hindu rate of growth and it’s been a story of misses – very unfortunate that despite having all the ingredients we could not get our act together. The balance sheet of most textile companies is fragile and debt ridden.

Honestly speaking we have never lived up to our potential. We every decade proclaim that we are on the path to become a textile superpower but then we get bypassed—by China, then Bangladesh and now Vietnam. China which controls 35 per cent of the global textile trade is in the process of vacating space due to its high cost structure and no one is better placed than India to capture the opportunity we missed in the past.

So what needs to be done?

The current garment package, which is expected to be enhanced to made ups, is a great step and should see a major pick-up in yarn and fabric demand by next year. We need a balanced fiber policy. Labor needs to be skilled and best practices should be adopted by the large unorganised segment of the industry.

Pragmatic and relevant labor policies will create a win win situation for industry and labor. Strategic free trade agreements should be signed on an urgent basis as the competition enjoys a huge advantage on this count. Our biggest bane is that we are isolated. All our main competing nations enjoy FTAs and hence tariff advantages with many developed and big markets. Hence Vietnam, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Sri Lanka are growing faster than we. It is very important to conclude FTAs, as there is a limit to how much incentives the government can give us. Pollution norms need to be examined properly and appropriately drafted.

We also need to understand and leverage our competitive advantages – the availability of fiber (most importantly cotton but have to stop ignoring other fibres), a huge labour force, a reasonable rate of finance due to capital/interest subsidies and the growing domestic purchasing power.

Our global market share should rise to 10 per cent and by 2030 make us a 600 billion dollar industry from a 120 billion industry today. It will also provide additional employment to 50 million people, 70 per cent of whom would be women. The industry would also see major changes in fibre use (the non cotton fiber share would increase), technology (functional specific textiles would grow in a big way) and importance of technical textiles (share of non apparel use would grow).

A 500 per cent growth in 15 years may sound stiff, but I strongly feel that this is an achievable target and if the momentum picks up we could see this figure being surpassed.

I am prompted to look beyond 2030 and crystal gaze to 2050, where I feel the textile industry would continue to be a prominent industry supported by technology advancements, a large population and a strong increase in per capita income. However real growth would slow down to four or five per cent.

What are the current trends in the fabric market?

Regular innovation, new designs are the order of the day. Customers are looking for more and more options –preference is shifting from cotton to blends due to the need for a bigger range and also better prices. The price differential between the two has gone up. Next season there is going to be more of blended fabric in all categories. However cotton prices have started falling with the new crop coming in and the differences may narrow down again.

Kamal Sakseria, Managing Director

Absoluto

Tell us about the brand.

We do suits, shirts, Indowesterns and ethnics and girls’ wear. We have TR and terry wool suitings; cotton shirtings and suitings and polyester viscose also. We do the design and product development. So we focus on suitings as well as shirtings but we are organically increasing the shirting range. We want Absoluto to be a global brand in the next 10 to 15 years. For summer, we are working on cotton products and on some blends. Moreover we are introducing shades which are exclusive to Indian fashion industry. We stepped into custom tailoring last year and wish to grow in this segment.

What are the trends?

We see the market for cotton growing. Cotton has everything that it takes to be an ideal fabric, pricing, comfort or hygiene. Multiple varieties are available in cotton. In this scenario, if you introduce a good product, people will definitely opt for it. Blends too if done correctly have demand. Casual wear is more in demand in India and denim is preferred but there is still a section which go for our kind of suiting range.

What is your retail strategy?

We have a boutique in Delhi. We are largely into over the counter retail and the market is good. We cater to readymade garment manufacturing but its share is small, around 20 per cent. The major difference between OTC and RMG is that stakes are lower in former and higher in the latter. The market for RMG is good. It is more of a capital intensive segment.

How are business prospects?

Demonetisation has affected businesses. But it is a short term shock which is going to yield long term benefits, like increasing capital flow. We saw a 40 per cent dip in business. Now the market is improving slowly and losses have come down to 20 per cent. Increased rotation of money will help the market to improve and we expect further improvement in the next few months. We have been into exports for the last 30 years, though we have scaled down shipping. But we will definitely grow our businesses in the years to come. If everything goes well, we are expecting 50 per cent growth at least this year.

“We are mainly into OTC retail”

Carolon / Monza

Jayesh Kumar, Owner

Tell us about the brand

We have been making a wide variety of shirting fabrics ranging from poly cotton and fancy fabrics to premium cotton fabrics and linens for 45 years. Our fabrics are sold under two brands: Carolon and Monza. Carolon is exclusively dedicated to blended fabrics and Monza is for premium cotton and linen fabrics. We produce exclusive fabric collections and market around 14 million meters per annum. We are in constant touch with international developments by regularly attending international fairs and markets to offer the best developments to our customers.

What is the business outlook?

Growth outlook over the medium to long term looks good for the fashion industry because of high aspirations and increasing consciousness among consumers. Currently, barring demonetization the market looks stable as there was good monsoon and a strong wedding season continues till late summer. People are willing to spend on quality, designs with aesthetic values. Price is no more a criterion and market share of branded products is increasing.

What are the challenges?

The domestic cotton market is still untapped and we see a lot of space there. There is a vacuum in product development, aesthetic design, which meets international trends. State of the art production facilities are available in India but they have to be fine tuned to a creative and organised culture. The major factor is to maintain the right pricing with best quality production as base yarns such as Giza, Supima, sea island cotton are imported and there is lot of fluctuations due to currency variations.

There is limited development in cotton yarns compared to blended yarns where you have a lot of combinations to develop unique and fancy yarns suitable for your products. One big challenge in the retail fabric segment is the shortage of good tailoring resources.

There has been great acceptance of premium cotton fabrics in Tier II and III cities. But poor tailoring facility is a dampener. Cotton fabrics need careful treatment while being stitched, and good accessories are required, which tailors are not yet equipped with. This results in poor garment conversion. This is also one of the reasons for the flourishing readymade garment industry.

How is the overall textile scenario?

India is a large country with a high population and there is a big market for textiles. India is known for producing some of the more valuable and exclusive textile products in the world and now is the time when we should gear up and try to be focussed to achieve a larger share in the global market. This is possible because Indians have the same passion and creativity as leading countries. It is just that the textile fraternity has to now start taking steps in the right direction.

Tell us about the brand.

Contessa was launched in 1986. We focus on plain fabrics in cotton, polycot and linen. We do structures, cotton linen and poly cotton. We also do dobbies in 50s and 60s. We are in readymade garment segment which is a growing segment and if with quality and range, opportunities are plenty. We focus on colours with 40 colours in linen. We have a minimum of 15 colors in every range. Gold, ivory, navy blue and maroon are popular this time. White is a perennial favourite. We have checks, structures and stripes.

What fabrics are in trend?

Cotton is the preferred fabric in India. But it is a bland fabric. Polycot offers many varieties in terms of designing. We have only plain in linen. Fine yarns are popular. The market for polycot is good since this is a durable fabric and economical too. We have equal demand for all the fabrics. Earlier, linen was out of reach for many except the elite. Now common people are finding it attractive. The credit goes to innovations that came in the form of blends. Blended linen is available at economical pricing.

What is your retail network?

We do the northern, southern and western markets. The western region is promising for us. We are into exports as well.

How do you see business?

The market is doing well and is supposed to perform well in future. Purchasing power has gone up steeply. All we need to do in the current market scenario is fulfil demand. Three things matter most from the business point of view: quality, creation and services.

“Growth outlook over the medium to long term looks good”

Contessa

Sanjiv Shah, Owner

“Market for polycot is good since it is durable fabric economical”

Dcott

Harshad Gathani, Prateek Gathani, Partners

Tell us about the brand

We make cotton and linen fabrics. In linen, its cotton linen and pure linen; in cotton its 100 per cent cotton. Of our production, 80 per cent is cotton, 20 per cent linen. For the summers, we have pastel shades and floral prints. Jacquards, structures and stripes are doing well in linen. We are planning to launch linen saris.

What are the trending styles?

We have 40 to 150 counts in linen. Cotton counts are between 60 and 140. Linen in 60 counts is popular. Cotton in 50 counts is in demand. We have many designs and prints in linen. Prints are equally in demand in cotton and linen. But the market for prints is likely to come down by 30 or 40 per cent. In linen, structures, stripes and checks are in trend, but plain linen is preferred a lot.

We will be focusing on cotton in the years ahead. The market is not bad for linen, but it is a niche fabric, whereas cotton has universal appeal. Linen prices are a challenge for the common man. Linen is used for formal wear while cotton is more about casual clothing. We have about 120 colors in our linen range. Pastel colors are in. In our cotton range, the numbers of colors is 200.

What is the demand for linen?

With the wedding consumption of linen is likely to go up. Popularity of linen is high in southern and western regions. Awareness is rising, and many new players are entering this segment, so market will grow further. Demand for linen has come down in recent times but it will grow in the next couple of years. Fake linen is the reason we have seen a dip in demand. Compared to global linen market, Indian linen market is more innovative in terms of designs, colours and structures. We have prints here. So the Indian linen market has a huge range. Linen is not used much in women’s wear in India. In Europe, both men and women contribute equally to the linen category.

What are business prospects?

The business has been hit by 30 to 40 per cent due to demonetisation. But it is unlikely to hit the Spring/Summer season. Since the wedding season is ahead, we expect good business.

What is your retail strategy?

We do exports through vendors. Our fabrics go to readymade garment manufacturers and all over the counter. But for us OTC retail is more attractive than the readymade garment sector.

Jai Mata ji fabrics

Tell us about the brand.

We do designer wear fabrics. We use only polyester. Our fabrics are used for ethnic wear such as lehangas, sherwanis etc. We do jacquards and dobbies also. Since the range is ethnic, we have about 150 colours. We do both men’s and women’s. Our monthly production stands at 50,000 meters. We do 70 per cent production in the women’s segment and 30 per cent in the men’s segment. We have about 400 designs. We have fabrics available in the range of Rs 80 to Rs 400 per meter. We do in house manufacturing.

What are the trending styles?

Fabrics and designs keep changing according to seasons and festivals. Currently jacquards are pretty much in trend, tafta jacquards, especially. This time navy blue, purple, maroon etc are quite in trend.

What is your retail strategy?

We supply directly to garmenters. We cover Surat and Mumbai. We have about 30 clients in Mumbai.

How are business prospects?

There has been a steep rise of 20 per cent in raw material prices. We have not yet raised the price of the product, but if there is no improvement, we will have to raise prices. We faced some tough times during the days of demonetisation, but now we believe that the season is going to be good. The designer fabric segment is not very competitive. Raw material is easily available in Surat. We will now be focusing on our brands. Implementation of government policies does not happen on time. Subsidies are delayed most of the times.

“We are planning linen saris”

Kapil bhai bhagawan bhai chheda, Owner

“We do ethnic wear fabrics”

LNG

Lakshay Gupta, Director

Tell us about the company.

Sammaan is into fabric manufacturing. We manufacture polyester, poly cotton, pure linen, Giza cotton, linen blends etc. We are especially known for our exclusive range of polyester/cotton blended fabrics. We target men aged 40 to 60. Men in this age, if a bit out of shape, purchase fabrics and get their shirts custom fitted. Our brand Lino World makes linen and Samcott has Giza cotton fabrics. Of our total business, 10 per cent is for the readymade garment sector, 80 per cent for retail and 10 per cent for corporates. We expect to grow by three to four per cent this year.

What’s your USP?

When it comes to innovation we like to keep things simple and don’t make drastic changes unless required. Our focus is on developing products that are in trend. We pay special attention to fabric durability of the fabrics and try to develop fabrics that are exclusive in terms of construction and design. We create fabrics with improved aesthetic properties helping the body to perspire better and hence adding to the wearer’s comfort.

What’s your retail strategy?

Our fabric are sold at leading retail stores in India. About 90 per cent of our sales over the last 20 years have been over the counter. We participate in major textile fairs around the world. Our share of exports presently is around 10 percent.

How do you see the market?

The factor that would affect sales during initial part of the year is demonetisation. Cash flow among consumers need to improve for sales to improve. Most of India, especially Tier I and II, does shopping in cash. This year, is predicted to have a good, long wedding season that would help increase sales. In India the cost of customized tailoring is lower compared to Europe and other markets and the population is bigger. So, over the counter retail does hold a great growth potential. We find this channel of retail promising if done properly. Technological upgradations and advancements are happening, especially Chinese auto looms, which are the big reform in the sector. These looms are lower priced compared to branded machines from Japan. Small textile players are able to produce more with a lower investment. This makes their products more quality oriented and cost effective.

What are the challenges?

The challenge for the last six or seven years is seasonal or occasional purchase by consumers. Competition has increased. Sometimes it is difficult to sustain existing growth rates. Reach of readymade garments has increased tremendously in the last decade. People are more comfortable directly opting for readymade garments. The fluctuation in cotton prices has had an impact on us but not a great deal, since we are majorly into blended fabrics, polyester cotton, to be specific. We have entered the premium cotton segment also.

Nirav Silk Mills

The brand

The company makes PC and PVC and cotton shirtings. “We cater to formal dress shirts, semi formal, party wear and casual shirts,” Shah. “We have the NOS (Never Out of Stock) collection. We have a fashion collection. NOS has 1500 to 2000 designs. We supply to brands in India who make formal dress shirts. You can call it Monday to Friday dressing. Our focus is on basic products that are used in corporate supplies, uniforms, office wear. We supply to ITC, John Players, Big Bazaar. There is a very big market for formal dress shirts. NOS maintains a stock of 1200 meters. This helps reduce the lead time from six months to 45 or 60 days.” The company faced payment issues after November 8. “The market fell by 10 or 20 percent but has since recovered.”

Cotton versus synthetics

A cotton shirt wears off after some washes, says Shah. “People in the lower income group prefer to buy a PC shirt than a cotton shirt. A person has to change a PC shirt, say, every nine months as compared to changing a cotton shirt every three months. Everybody is into cotton fabrics because airjet machines make cotton fabric weaving easier. It is difficult to weave synthetic fabrics and maintain quality. The Chinese make blended by blended. So polyester by cotton is a fabric that’s difficult to manage now. However big companies are into cotton fabrics and have an infrastructure of more than a Rs 1000 crores.”

Retail Strategy

Shah works through traders. “We supply corporates directly. We do exports. We directly export the fabric to garmenters. We deal with bigger garmenters who don’t buy from a trader. They have bigger volumes than a trader.”

“We like to keep things simple”

Vicky Shah, director

“Synthetic fabrics hold good potential”

Opalium / Bonytex

Raman Jain, Partner

Could you tell us about the brand?

We are Mumbai-based and have been in the business for 23 years. We have two brands, Opalium and Bonytex. Opalium operates in the 58” shirting fabric whereas Bonytex deals primarily in the 36” fabric range. Opalium was one of the earliest firms that entered the export market for finished fabrics. Each brand has its own collection and buying to fulfil the needs of its respective customers.

We have a diversified range of products that include sober designs (plains, stripes and checks), dobby designs, jacquard designs, embroidery designs, cationic designs, fancy designs and printed designs. All designs are offered in a wide palette of quality colours and combinations to keep up with the tastes of different markets. The construction of our fabric base ranges from polyester cotton blends to 100 per cent pure cotton and we also provide polyester viscose, linen flax and 100 per cent linen items.

What is your retail strategy?

Opalium is mainly for exports. We have either done or are doing business in Ecuador, Panama, Mexico, Columbia, Venezuela, Argentina, Paraguay, Dubai, Jeddah, Kuwait, Yemen, Egypt, Iraq, Iran, Sri Lanka and China. Bonytex is for the domestic market. We have distribution and dealerships in Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Ahmedabad, Ambala, Amritsar, Kanpur, Jaipur, Delhi, Lucknow, Nagpur and various other cities.

Rambansi

The brand

Rambansi does pure cotton, cotton blends, pure linen and linen cotton blends. As of now the share of linen is 20 per cent, pure cotton’s share is 60 per cent. This year the brand has gone into giza cotton. Agarwal is expecting ten per cent growth this year. “Last year was subdued from the business point of view but this year seems good on account of favourable climatic conditions.” The brand is into OTC retail, supplies to readymade garment makers and is into exports also. “We don’t do direct exports but supply to exporters.”

Linen as a fabric

Currently prices of linen are falling continuously due to overproduction in China, says Agarwal. “Ultimately this trend is going to benefit people. This fiber comes from European countries but the yarn is made in China. About 80 per cent is done by this country alone. Linen is a difficult fabric to experiment. It is easily breakable and expensive also. Though volumes are high in cotton based products, the market for linen is growing continuously, and many big names have emerged in recent times. The market is certainly flooded with fake linen, but real and fake linen will coexist in future.”

“We have a diversified range of products”

Siddhant Agarwal, Proprietor

“We do ethnic wear fabrics”

Sparks

Paresh Sottany, Director

Tell us about the brand.

Sparks opened in 1989. We have cotton and linen. We do 40s and 60s of both linen and cotton. Then there are jacquards, dobbies, indigo checks, indigo Tencel and modal viscose. We do stripes and also plains in 60:60 satin. There is a new quality fabric named ‘Lafar’. We have carbon and dobbies in solids, melange checks, space dyed and grindle fabrics as well. The range comprises both bright and light colours. We are known for brushing. Since we are more into casual garments, checks and prints are more in our range. We have a kids’ segment. In checks, we have about 250 designs. In stripes we have 50 designs. In carbon, we have 50 designs. We do about two lakh meters of linen. Almost 10 per cent our production is for exports and the rest is for domestic market. Readymade garment makers and corporates have an equal share. Corporates are choosy than garment manufacturers. We expect 10 to 15 per cent growth this year. We produce on a contract basis. Mainly high end brands and some mid level players are our major brands. We produce five lakh meters of fabric a month. Counts differ as per season. Fine counts like 60s are preferred in summer, while 20s, 30s and 40s counts work in winter.

What styles have you introduce?

This time we have scaled down production by 30 percent. The main categories are melange, Tencel and modal in pastel colours. Earlier pure cotton products were either used by high society or exported. Now, cotton has become common. The social media has given a boost to this segment. People don’t mind spending money on quality products. From the climate point of view, cotton is best suited to the country.

What are the market trends?

No doubt in the higher segment, finer fabrics are in demand but the limitation with them is their low consumption. Fine counts are not used by masses. So we make less of them. Fine counts are not a volume oriented segment. This category is done mainly for the purpose of variety. This is common with the entire industry. Big brands are very selective in their approach but their payment structure is very smooth. Small brands are not so fussy when it comes to products but they pose payment challenges.

What are the growth prospects?

We see a good scope in the market. Earlier manufacturers were dependent on China for raw materials. Now these are available in India easily. Demonetisation slowed down production by 30 per cent. The impact has been short term, now the market is coming back on track. It may not grow as compared to last season but it is not going to see any downfall either. In a month, we are expecting a great improvement.

Supriya Silk Mills

Tell us about the brand.

Deep Blue is the parent brand and was established in 2009. We do linen shirtings and Giza cotton. The brand has two offshoots: Deep Blue Finest Cotton and Deep Blue Just Linen. Under Deep Blue Finest Cotton we do cotton and under Deep Blue Just Linen we do linen. We supply to readymade garment manufacturers in India. We supply to big brands such as Turtle, Lifestyle and Big Bazaar. We deliver to many regional and city brands. The total numbers of brands we serve stand at 250. Out of this we do about eight to nine corporates. This includes Pantaloons also. Last season was good. This time we are expecting 25 per cent growth. We do 1.2 million meters of linen and 2.5 million meters of cotton. We are looking for 20 per cent growth on the production side.

What are the style trends?

Fine counts and structures are popular in cotton. In linen shirtings, we follow the count from 60 lea to 100 lea. Fine counts are more popular, especially 80 and 100 lea. Prints are popular, jacquards in linen are also doing good. We have about 100 colours in plains. Linen in brighter shades is in demand. Earthy colours also have good acceptance. This year is going to be a year of bright colours and prints. Lots of new weaves have come in. Multiple yarns have been used.

What is your retail strategy?

We find readymade garments an attractive channel for retail since this has growth potential and is competitive compared to other channels. Corporates are also good for us. OTC is a different ball game altogether. You can have a fair amount of business if you are marketed well and have placed yourself as a brand. We are growing state-wise. We are well placed in the South. In the last two years we have added Bihar, UP, MP. We are focusing on the domestic market. Currently our fabric goes to about 7,000 retailers. We are on an expansion mode and looking for 50 per cent growth. We want to increase our distribution network. Exports are 10 per cent of our total business. We go to Dubai and Sri Lanka.

How do you see the market?

With strong wedding season this time, we hope for a fair amount of business. It is just a beginning for linen fabric, we may see demand going up for linen. The only issue with linen is that it is expensive, so it is not affordable for everyone. In volume terms, cotton is positioned better. We see the demand for Giza cotton going up and for structures cotton in OTC retail. Cotton has become an affordable fabric. Earlier people used cotton blends but now everyone is moving toward pure cotton products.

“We produce five lakh meters of fabric a month”

Vimal Jain, MD

“We find RMG an attractive channel for retail”

Sumit Synthetics

Amit Mehta, Proprietor

Tell us about the brand.

We are 20 years old. We do 75 per cent cotton products and rest is made of fancy fabrics. We do 100 per cent cotton solids. We are planning to extend the product basket and may add club wear also. We want to offer the best of colors, fabrics and designs. We use the best quality yarns. We pay attention to processing.

What are the new styles?

There are many value additions happening in the industry. The demand for giza cotton will pick up. We have introduced many new weaves. Fabrics have been innovated keeping in mind the young population and the Indian climate. Our cotton products are completely different to traditional cotton offerings. We always give a contemporary touch to what we make. The craze for casual wear is increasing day by day. We will see more varieties in prints, which will be quite different from the current prints market. Panels and shadings are the new innovations in print that may dominate the market. We follow 40, 50 and 60 counts in our shirting fabrics. 50s count is more in demand because of its durability and comfort to the user.

How is the business scenario?

We expect the market in Mumbai to grow for cotton products. Demonetisation has affected every segment. We know the market will bounce back and it has started happening. We have been witnessing 15 to 20 per cent growth year on year but this time we have kept the growth target at 10 per cent on account of demonetisation. We have also raised the price of our product by 10 per cent this time.

What are the challenges?

Competition is intense in the market. We face challenges related to processing because the charges are so high. This gives an advantage to competitors. Technology is another area in terms of which the industry as a whole has to grow. We need advance technology in weaving and processing. Research and development require attention. We need to get into blended fabrics.

What’s your retail plan?

We are well present in the western and northern regions. We don’t supply directly to readymade garment manufacturers. We have distributors. If we grow further, we would definitely be more active in direct supply to garmenters.

Topman

Demonetisation

Bhiwandi has a huge migrant labor population, says Agarwal. “And very few have bank accounts. So paying salaries by cheque is very difficult. There are hardly any ATMs. On the one hand the authorities want a cashless economy and on the other hand there is no means of facilitating it. At one time fabric was under excise. Then fabric was taken away from excise and yarn was brought under excise. Fabric makers were given the option of remaining under excise or pulling out. They should be given a similar option with GST. Once they get familiar with GST they can be brought under its scope. We have already had a disruption with demonetisation. Another disruption with GST should be avoided.”

India’s strengths

With TUF schemes the problem is that there is excess weaving and spinning capacity. Fabric processing, finishing and printing have yet to be modernised. “Instead of weaving there should be a focus on processing,” says Agarwal. “In the whole of Maharashtra there are only three competent processing houses. These are Bombay Rayon, Donier and Mudra. Considering our weaving capacity we need at least 20 processing houses. There are many processing houses that are shut because they didn’t modernise. They did not have state of the art machines. I think the percentage of NPAs in the textile sector is lower as compared to other sectors.”

The way forward

Entrepreneurs in India are hemmed in by legislation, says Agarwal. “In Bangladesh you will find 10,000 workers clustered in a single building with no union. Here we have to deal with labor rights and issues. Bhiwandi alone has 2000 unions. They flex their muscle on every single issue. In Vietnam labor laws are flexible. In India unscrupulous elements manipulate labor laws for their benefit.” As for cottons versus synthetics, India has imposed a heavy duty structure on synthetics. “On cotton it is a zero percent duty. And this is reflected in the prices of cotton and synthetics. So who will buy synthetics? The yarn market is under a monopoly. The whole structure needs revision. It is not enough to announce sops. There has to be follow-up. China is going into value addition. So India has a chance. If the processing line is improved, India can grow multiple times. The world will have no option but to come to India. But as of now Mumbai has just a single unit for yarn dyed processing.”

“We may add club wear”

Satish Agarwal, director

“We do ethnic wear fabrics”

Italtex: Soft and Double - Face Fabrics for WomenswearA/W 2017/18

In womenswear softness is expressed by warm brushed long hair mohair, fine and coarse boucle’ and fancy yarns in both woven and knit qualities enveloping rich wool mixtures and flannellised cottons, or else by woven and knitted felts, two-tone felt plains and barely visible plaids in milled flannel. Therefore, cocooning wool coat is one of the key words of the season.

Soft and Double-Face Fabrics for Womenswear - A/W 2017/18 - Italtex

Double face coatings and bondings include a large variety of solutions, from the classic elegant two-side plains to the interpretations with patterned face or reverse, in solid or mixture yarns. Alongside the weave effect doubles come the outstanding coated and

bonded interpretations where light coatings add just a hint of colour, and film coatings change the surface into a plastic, varnish image very much in the mood of the moment.

Bonded layers can be fabrics of the same kind, like woven with woven, jersey with jersey, or also mixed. Often they contain a protective inside layer conferring a neoprene look for fashion as well as performance purposes.

More Womenswear and Menswear Fabric Trends as well as the new Milan Trending Nowreport at www.italtextrends.com.

Carlin creative trend bureau : Twilight trend - menswear S/S 2018

Carlin Creative Trend Bureau invites you to discover the BLACK SUNSHINE theme

from its #Menswear SS18 trend book. In the twilight, the man adapts to the forces of nature and learn to cope with the elements.

The telluric force of the planet inspired a strange, mesmerizing fascination for wilderness. This mysterious power pushes us to rethink our relationship with nature, resulting in an urban but technical allure imbued with authenticity.

THE NEW URBAN

Fascinated and shaped by the world around him, the urban man draws its energy from a research of performance. Like the elements of nature, her figure is a reflection of his perseverance, namely a more completed appearance combining technical city and highly-developed sophistication.

Minimalist cut, patch pockets and stylish button, the centerpiece of this look retains the urban codes while integrating a couture dimension. We put on a city technicized silhouette reflection of urban and effective nomadism.

Soft brutality

The urban dimension is manifested through false united multi-shades of gray sketch combining movement and mimicry as a shell to protect from an uncertain nature.

Land-based energy

Between mystery and power that harmony breathe protective energy. It comes from the confrontation of minerals and urban gray face with electric blue and green almond

Carlin creative trend bureau: A « Happy Mimosa » return to school for #KIDS SS18 trend!

To prepare the back-to-school season with serenity, Carlin Creative Trend bureau invite you to rediscover a new aspect of its CARPE DIEM theme from its #KIDS SS18 digital Trend book.

Controlled laid-back Fabrics will be soft and light to facilitate movements and to guarantee more comfort.

Loose silhouette design itself from the combination of lengths and volumes.

The new jogger pants, both stylish and functional will be a must-have of the kids wardrobe.

In top, volumes will be square and wide with great lightness. The touch of sophistication comes from the flounce with details hangs.

Flowers and letters

As a child’s play, flowers and letters will be mixed to create joyful and colourful prints. It will give prominence to mimosa expressed in a graphic way by small touches of colour.

Sanchit Chheda Director Opulent

Opulent

“Soon I will add night wear”

Tell us about the brand.

I do women’s fabrics. I have a strong focus on ethnic wear. I supply to manufacturers, that is, readymade garmenters. These are domestic brands in women’s wear like ethnics, party wear, western wear, children’s frocks, T-shirts. Basically I am an importer. I have been importing for 15 years. I don’t produce anything. So I import products and market them all over India. So I do both women’s wear and junior wear. Our price per meter is Rs 150 to Rs 1200, where you have net with embroidery. Rayon is Rs 150 to Rs 200 a meter.

I do women’s 80 percent and children’s 20 percent. I want to make that 50-50. Soon I will add night wear. Night wear has a good market. Night wear has fabrics like rayon. We will also go into net. Net is used for ethnic wear. I will import this.

What are the new styles?

Now I am focusing on knits. And in wovens you have rayon. They have a fast market movement and they are wearable. We focus on rayons and knits. These are used in women’s wear and junior wear. This covers night wear, girls’, ethnic wear, kurtis. In these categories I do the product and marketing. I have 15 to 20 fabric types—knit wear, modal prints, linen, rayons. In knits I import Chinese and Korean products, prints, plains, jacquards. I have four to five varieties in rayon. Rayon is used for kurtis, pajamas, children’s trousers. Knits cover a vast range of women’s wear—T-shirts, pajamas, leggings, jackets. We import 70 percent from China and 30 percent from Korea.

What does the market look like?

The market is good. I follow winter and summer. For this winter we have more of Korean imports. Korean prices are high but customers don’t mind. In India I work with brands and semi brands. I work with cutters and not retailers. I have no over the counter sales. I work with readymade garment manufacturers who supply to retailers. We do wholesale but not much. Linking with garmenters is tough. You have to make strenuous efforts to establish a rapport. We are into fancy and here there’s tough competition. A new player should have variety to sustain.

For two years we have been having good growth and we expect that to continue. In India I go to Delhi, Mumbai, Indore, Ludhiana, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Kerala, Punjab, Assam, Guwahati, Kolkata.

HEIMTEXTIL GETS A POSITIVE RESPONSE FROM EXHIBITORS, VISITORS

interesting, in particular because I can see myself designing bed linen, pillows and other home textiles in future in addition to wallpaper”, says star designer Michael Michalsky, who presented his new wallpaper collection at the trade fair. “At the world’s leading trade fair, competitors are present in great numbers. Here, I can experience marketing of products at close quarters and get direct feedback.” And it was not just designers that showed great interest in the globally unique design offer at Heimtextil. Exhibiting companies also used the creative hotspot to acquire new designs for their upcoming collections.

Trend towards more materiality

“Heimtextil, after four successful trade fair days in Frankfurt am Main, dropped curtains in style. In spite of the snow, ice and storms, particularly on the first and last days of the trade fair, almost 70,000 trade visitors from across the world attended the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles and were won over by quality and variety of the exhibited products as well as the trends of the new season. Growth was driven primarily by Brazil, China, the UK, Italy, Japan, Russia, the US and UAE.”

Heimtextil, after four successful trade fair days in Frankfurt am Main, dropped curtains in style. In spite of the snow, ice and storms, particularly on the first and last days of the trade fair, almost 70,000 trade visitors from across the world attended the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles and were won over by quality and variety of the exhibited products as well as the trends of the new season. Growth was driven primarily by Brazil, China, the UK, Italy, Japan, Russia, the US and UAE. A total of 2,963 exhibitors from 67 countries presented their new textile products and designs across 20 halls and were highly satisfied by the orders they received and business contacts they made.

Detlauf Braun, CEO, Messe Frankfurt, highlighted the positives following the end of the trade fair, “The figures speak for themselves. Heimtextil grew once again in 2017 in terms of its visitor and exhibitor numbers. But it’s no longer about quantity and hasn’t been for a long time. I am

especially pleased about the high quality of the products exhibited as well as the intensity of discussions between purchasers and exhibitors. Frankfurt is the international meeting place and beating textile heart of the interiors industry.”

Andreas Klenk, CEO, Saum & Viebahn said he returned to Heimtextil at the right time: as successful positioning gave their new profile and product orientation. The feedback from visitors was positive and they were able to acquire both export and domestic contacts.

Textile Design: The eye feels too

It is not just the feel of a material that determines its appeal – something that was also obvious at Heimtextil with the great interest shown in textile design. The colourful fabrics and varied designs by wellknown designers and young talent were popular and attracted a lot of attention: “For me as a designer, Heimtextil is extremely

An end to bare walls and cold floors: home textiles celebrated their comeback in private homes. Curtains, carpets and decorative cushions are decorating people’s own four walls and lending them a personal note. “We can also confirm the trend towards more materiality. In addition to our new wallpaper products, we have seen an increased interest from visitors in our new fabric collections”, said Andreas Zimmermann, CEO, Zimmer + Rohde. This trend is boosting orders at Heimtextil, “The quality of visitors was very high. We met very high-quality, good international purchasers and excellent potential new customers. We are therefore very satisfied with our attendance at Heimtextil.”

Sleeping as a lifestyle

After nutrition and fitness, sleeping will be the next big lifestyle theme. This was proven by the numerous innovations seen in the bed segment. Mediflow from Hamburg, for example, presented an improved version of its water pillow capable of full adjustments for firmness and supportive effect. Robert Kocher, European CEO, Mediflow, said, “This year, we had lots of new customers at our stand who had heard about us and wanted to know more about our products or even ordered them directly. Visitors primarily came from the Middle East, China, the eastern European region and Scandinavia. We also enjoyed intense discussions with American and German customers. This is also the great strength of Heimtextil. It is not just about sales, but also communication and establishing relationships or simply getting direct feedback on our products”.

The next Heimtextil, international trade fair for home and contract textiles, will take place from January 9-12. 2018 in Frankfurt am Main.

GREAT RESPONSE PROPELS

INTERTEXTILE SHANGHAI APPAREL FABRICS TO INCREASE SPACE

products, solutions and services feature in the eco-Boutique, while this area also includes an Educational Zone and Forum Space Functional Lab: housing exhibitors with products for the high-performance activewear market Asian Pavilions: pavilions from India, Japan, Korea, Pakistan and Taiwan return to Intertextile Shanghai Group Pavilions: the Lenzing Group Pavilion will feature for the first time at the Spring Edition, while the Dyetec Pavilion will also feature a number of their partner mills Chinese exhibitors will be in halls 6.1, 6.2, 7.1, 8.1 and 8.2, grouped by product end-use as well as in various pavilions.

“One of the most awaited trade fairs for the apparel fabric and accessory industry, Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics returns from March 15-17 with close to 3,000 companies exhibiting at the fair. Going by the record number of exhibitors, an extra hall has been added. An increased number of women’s wear and accessories exhibitors, and to a lesser extent, functional fabrics suppliers, will feature at this edition. “

One of the most awaited trade fairs for the apparel fabric and accessory industry, Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics returns from March 15-17 with close to 3,000 companies exhibiting at the fair. Going by the record number of exhibitors, an extra hall has been added. An increased number of women’s wear and accessories exhibitors, and to a lesser extent, functional fabrics suppliers, will feature at this edition. Four concurrent textile fairs will occupy another seven halls, providing unrivalled sourcing options for buyers from around the world.

“We are pleased with the response so far from both our existing exhibitors as well as newparticipants for this edition,” Wendy Wen, Senior General Manager, Messe Frankfurt, explained. “They recognise this fair is a place where business is still conducted over the three days, and is unrivalled in its scale and coverage of the industry, thus providing exhibitors with new opportunities at each edition. Particularly for the Spring Edition, it

is the ideal industry event to reach Chinese buyers, including a number of the biggest brands.” These brands are: Bosideng, Eral, Handu, JNBY, K-Boxing and Semir. In addition to domestic buyers, visitors from around 100 countries and regions can be expected at the 2017 edition.

An unbeatable accessories’ range

The majority of overseas exhibitors will feature in the International Hall (hall 5.2), which includes a number of distinct areas: SalonEurope: Premium European suppliers as well as the Milano Unica Pavilion and France & Germany Zones Premium Wool Zone: exhibitors from France, Italy the UK and elsewhere will showcase their highend wool and cashmere fabrics Verve for Design: design studios from around the world will display their latest original design collections All About Sustainability: a range of companies offering sustainability

Trend Forum

Intertextile Shanghai’s renowned fringe programs will once again feature information and inspirations to keep the industry ahead of the curve. The Intertextile Directions Trend Forum will be joined by a number of Chinese trend forums to display and explain the upcoming themes, colours, fabrics and prints for the spring / summer 2018 season. Leading experts and trendsetters will take part in a number of seminars and panel discussions under topics including design and trends, technology and solutions, market information and business strategies, and sustainability issues.

In addition, four other textile fairs occur concurrently in the same venue: Yarn Expo Spring (Hall 5.1), Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Edition (Hall 4.2), CHIC (Halls 1, 2, 3 & 4.1) and PH Value (Hall 3). Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2017 is co-organised by Messe Frankfurt; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.

TEXTILE MILLS LOOKING TO RECOVER SOME GAINS IN Q4 FY2016-17

“All hopes rest on the fourth quarter of fiscal year 2016-17 for the textile mills to tide over tough times. The Textile Ministry’s initiative to allow mills to pay only 10 per cent of procurement money has come as a breather. They feel, the move could ease production cost in the last quarter of the fiscal. Moreover, the industry is looking to orders for summer season 2017 to boost fourth quarter results.”

All hopes rest on the fourth quarter of fiscal year 2016-17 for the textile mills to tide over tough times. The Textile Ministry’s initiative to allow mills to pay only 10 per cent of procurement money has come as a breather. They feel, the move could ease production cost in the last quarter of the fiscal. Moreover, the industry is looking to orders for summer season 2017 to boost fourth quarter results.

Mill owners hope Q4 will not be as bad as the Q3. They are focusing more on exports which could help them boost the results. However, everyone in the industry hopes that business would pick up in the first quarter of next financial year.

Cotton pricing initiatves

While large traders and multinational cotton traders take advantage of hedging facility and cheaper funds, mills are unable to build adequate inventory and have been paying higher price for the cotton during off season. More than 75 per cent of the cotton arrives in market from December to March

and around Rs 60,000 crores is required to procure seed cotton during this period. Since ginning and spinning mills do not have such funds, farmers invariably get lower price. Owing to that, the cotton textile industry had been demanding the government to ensure cotton fibre security and stability in cotton prices so that both farmers and the industry get benefits and remain competitive in the global market.

With the new textile minister directing Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) that normally procures cotton only when the prices crash below minimum support price to procure cotton on a commercial basis and supply to the mills, the textile industry has welcomed the move.

The new terms and conditions of fully pressed bales of CCI facilitates registered MSME textile units to procure cotton by paying only 10 per cent deposit money as against 20 per cent which is applicable only for the sale quantity of 30,000 bales and above. “The deposit money up to 2,999 bales is only 15 per cent. This would greatly help MSME units

which are starving for working capital fund in the post-demonetisation regime,” explains M Senthilkumar, Chairman, Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA).

Senthilkumar further says earlier there was a difference in the free period ranging from 30 to 75 days and 75 days free period was available for the procurement of 15000 bales and above, which led to MSME textile units’ inability to derive much benefit out of CCI. “However, now the free period has been made uniform and fixed at 45 days which would again help the actual users and the MSME units,” he stated.

Hoping for the good times Textile industry sources say, CCI might procure around 1.5 million bales and maintain an inventory of 500,000 bales so that stability in cotton price is maintained. Meanwhile, the textile industry has also been requesting CCI to opt for coastal movement of bales between Gujarat and Tamil Nadu that would again yield considerable saving for the mills, of anywhere between 10 per cent 25 per cent in freight costs.

ALGERIA TO HOST MAIDEN TEXTYLE-EXPO FROM APRIL 2 TO 5

The first edition of the Textyle-Expo organized by SARL CGCOM Event will open to public on April 2 at Oran, Algeria. The four-day fair that ends on April 5, is expected to attract excellent opportunities for the Algerian textile sector to establish new business contacts and break into new markets.

The Expo, which is under the patronage of the Algerian minister of industry and mines, is the first international fair for textiles, leather & fashion in Algeria.

The Fair will be a one-stop destination for exhibitors to identify new customers and offer good deals and also find Algerian and foreign partners for investment. On the other hand, visitors will get to meet professionals who best match with their requirement.

All members of the international and national textile industry viz manufacturers of machinery and equipment, specialists of innovation and transformation, producers of raw materials and finished products, wholesalers and distributors will attend the Expo.

The high-profile exhibition will deal with all processing stages of production, from raw materials and leather through machines to semi-finished and finished products, designers and distributors.

The range of textile products offered will include both home textiles, such as bed linen, tablecloths or curtains, and clothing for men, women and children as well as garment accessories. Countries that have confirmed their participation in the Expo are

Algeria, China, Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Italy, Turkey and Tunisia.

Along with the actual exhibition, the Textyle-Expo is set to offer numerous interactive seminars and meetings to share experiences and ideas in the field of

textile, latest fashion trends and investment opportunities in Algeria. Besides this, the fair will also host a fashion show presenting new collections of exhibitors and designers, during which the major brands of ready-towear will display their products.

DFU PUBLICATIONS are indeed designed keeping YOU in mind. No wonder, these have been a true and honest voice of the industry. Publications so subject specific and customised that they give unparalleled mileage to all the decision makers at the manufacturers and retailer level. Nothing can be more focused!