DESIRE SHIRTS Vol 15 No.1 by InsideFashion

OM SAI MAA

SHIRTS

VOL 15 No. 1

Innovation and consumer preferences drive shirts market a publication by

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life

sunday E

D A Y

Sunday Life isn’t about losing time by going slowly, it’s about gaining time by doing the things that are most important to you.

Stori Fashions Pvt Ltd “House of Stori” No.90/1/11, Vaishnodevi Industrial Estate Phase‐2, Bheemenahalli, Bidadi,Bangalore, Karnataka‐562 109.

Shree Sacha Impex (Bob Berry) 77/78, Albert Mansion, Gr. Floor, 7th Prabhat Colony, Santacruz - East Mumbai 400055

Tel: 022-26116600 > Mob. 9322260724 > E Mail : bobberryfashion@hotmail.com

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Tel: 022-26116600 > Mob. 9322260724 > E Mail : bobberryfashion@hotmail.com

10 10

CONTENTS OM SAI MAA

SHIRTS

VOL 15 No. 1

Innovation and consumer preferences drive shirts market a publication by

cover picture:

POPULAR SHIRTS

BRAND LEADERS

BRANDED VS UNBRANDED

CUSTOMISATION

BRAND LEADERS

COVER STORY

SHIRTING LEADERS

OVERVIEW

TRENDS & STYLE

GLOBAL BRANDS

SHIRT FEATURE

BRAND LEADERS

SUBSCRIPTION

DFU PUBLICATIONS Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO - Sanjay Chawla

Customer Relations

- Sanchita Banerjee - Bipasha Bhattacharya

Director - Salil Chawla Mangaging Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva VP-Corporate Communications - Shraboni Mukherjee

Webmaster

- Abdul Hussain

Business Development Manager - Hema Choudhary Editorial Team

Editorial Asst.

- Ajay Kumar Goswami Shubhangi Bidwe Narayan Subramaniam Pragati Pandey Bentley Verghese - Ranjit Kaur

Special Correspondent - Ajanta Ganguly/Prerna Sales Co-ordinator - Reena Prajapati

Production & Admn.

- Dinesh Poojary

Design Team

- Subhash Gode Sanjeev D. Sonavane Anil S. Kadale Manohar S. Rajgurav

MUMBAI OFFICE: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181, 2877 2282, 3001 4700 e-mail: dfuif@yahoo.co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com DEHLI OFFICE: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg: New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639 e-mail: salildfu@gmail.com, salil@dfupublications.com All reproductions rights reserved. Owned & published by: Sanjay Chawla and printed by him at DFU printing division. Published and Edited by Sanjay Chawla at: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai 400 062.

11 R

YO U TH

C L UB

12 SHIRTS MARKET

Semi formals perk up overall segment with changing preferences and tastes With growing popularity of everything can be worn everywhere, the shirt segment has undergone a transformation in India. Semi formal and casual shirts have seen more takers with consumers willing to experiment with their look, write Ajanta Ganguly and Ajay Goswami

whole new wave of transformation is currently sweeping over the men’s shirt category as consumer preferences rapidly change from traditional formal shirts towards a more semi-formal and semi-causal look. Although globally, semi-formals range may be trending, it may take some time for this change to percolate in India. Having its head stuck in the sand of limited colors and designs of formal shirts from local tailors and domestic branded and unbranded players, the move to stylish semi-formals may take some time.

• In 2017 domestic shirts market was estimated at Rs 39,659 crore • Is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6 per cent to touch Rs 69,361 crore by 2027 • Men’s shirts market in India is estimated at Rs 37,132 crore • It is the largest category among men’s apparel accounting for 28 per cent of the total men’s wear market • Around 40 per cent of men’s shirt market is formal and semi-formal shirts • Slim fit or smart fit sells better than a regular fit • Most brands find men’s collections easier to handle than women’s

SHIRTS MARKET As per experts men’s shirts market in India is valued at Rs 37,132 crore, and is the largest category among men’s apparel accounting for 28 per cent of the total men’s wear market. Around 40 per cent of men’s shirt market is constituted by formal and semi-formal shirts. However, consumers are now open to the idea of fashion for their own sake, as a means of self-expression, and not merely as a functional purchase. The concept of wearing T-shirts for casual settings and formal shirts for official settings is on the way out, as everything can be worn everywhere.

This season’s best style mantra With a versatile collection of branded shirts from domestic and global players on shop shelves along with the growth of online retailing, the options in menswear are seemingly endless. As male preferences become more trendy and versatile, a whole new range of smart casual and semi-formal shirts are taking over the classic plain and striped cotton shirts usually worn to office. Shirts have been and always will be the largest selling segment in men’s category, on average a working professional in an urban market has more than 20 shirts in his wardrobe. “Today’s consumer wants to see more options in fabric, colors, fits and is willing to

experiment with his looks. This has led to diversification and further categorization of shirts into semi-casual, casual, denim wear and club wear, giving people to don their shirts based on occasion, utility, function or mood. As per the 2017 industry data, the Indian domestic shirts market estimated at Rs 3,9659 crore is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6 per cent to become Rs 69361 crore by 2027,” says Manjula Gandhi, Chief Product Officer of Numero Uno, a leading men’s wear Indian brand. Gandhi says shirts account for nearly 12 per cent of the total apparel market in India of which men’s shirts hold 94 per cent of the total shirts market, while women’s shirts make up the balance 6 per cent. “In line with the global trend of casualization, the Indian shirt market is anticipated to witness huge demand for semi-formal and casual shirts compared to formal shirts,” Gandhi explains. Along with the preference for semi-formals, is a growing demand for personalization of shirts with a customized fit. One size fits all just doesn’t work anymore, even in the men’s segment. Trending now is slim fit and regular fit styles along with size segments of small to large. Being big doesn’t mean you have to tailor your shirts anymore, as most brands have included triple extra-large sizes in most segments. Most global and domestic brands divide their portfolio into 60 per cent casual wear and 40 per cent formal wear. The men’s wear segment has seen positive changes over time in terms of both fit and style. Today’s youth prefers a body fit which is customized whereas more mature men prefer a regular fit. The issue of fit was just 10 per cent before and currently, it grabs 90 per cent of the attention when buying a shirt. Also, bright colors printed shirts and customized smarter styles are an important element of change as everyone wants to look young when it comes to fashion.

Semi-formal shirts trending big time Higher disposable incomes, higher spending capacity, and greater shopping inclinations at swanky malls are the additional growth drivers for a flourishing men’s shirts market. With semicasual and casual shirts taking over, many formalwear brands today are extending their boundaries to include these in their portfolio. Demarcation lines are getting blurred and it’s more about how a man puts a look together with the styling and accessories. “A relaxed dress code is currently driving the semi-formal and semi-casual shirts off-take. We are changing our mix in favor of casual and semi-casual, which is growing faster than formals. The formal shirt category is less than 10 per cent for us. Shirts are one of the fastestgrowing categories and growing at more than 20 per cent. Shirt category is a relatively easy one in India but trends are changing quickly with sports and athleisure in trend,’’ opines Vinit Doshi, Head of Product, Sourcing & Retail Planning, Celio.

Vinit Doshi

Head of Product, Sourcing & Retail Planning, Celio “A relaxed dress code is currently driving the semi-formal and semi-casual shirts off-take. We are changing our mix in favor of casual and semi-casual, which is growing faster than formals. The formal shirt category is less than 10 per cent for us. Shirts are one of the fastest-growing categories and growing at more than 20 per cent. Shirt category is a relatively easy one in India but trends are changing quickly with sports and athleisure in trend.’’ “Strict shirting, whether it is formal or casual, is not facing a major crisis, but need to remain watchful as cotton dependency may reduce and new blends, environmentally friendly fibers, recycled fibers usage is increasing in the segment. Sports and athleisure are growing as a category even in shirts. Knits may also pose a challenge in future for shirts market with knits and sports being the millenials choice. This threat is being handled by adopting newer fabric bases for men,” he adds.

Smart fit and stylized shirts are the bestsellers Although colors and fabrics keep changing from season to season and brand to brand, the only thing that remains constant is the fit, where slim fit or smart fit sells better than a regular fit. Although indigo blue is the most popular through all seasons, the color palette has a wide variety in maroon, green, beige, chrome, fuchsia, brown and pastels shades. Prints and florals to are trending for the youth. Most brands find men’s collections easier to handle than women’s as they can be more easily worked out by categorizing into two seasons of summer and winter, half sleeves and full sleeves, checks and stripes or

14 SHIRTS MARKET

Manjula Gandhi

Chief Product Officer of Numero Uno “Today’s consumer wants to see more options in fabric, colors, fits and is willing to experiment with his looks. This has led to diversification and further categorization of shirts into semicasual, casual, denim wear and club wear, giving people to don their shirts based on occasion, utility, function or mood.” prints as well as a few other categories. But the men’s wear segment is not as easy as before and bands need to also speed up their research and development to have a more varied portfolio. “There is a very thin line between all categories. A semi-casual shirt is something one would wear with tucked in denim or chinos with closed footwear. Whereas a casual shirt can be worn tucked out with open-faced footwear and rolled up sleeves. Similarly, a formal shirt is a dressed shirt that is typically worn to work meetings or festive. Whereas, a semi-formal shirt is a formal shirt with a little detailing on either collar, cuff or placket,’’ says Rahul Agarwal, Director, Donear NXG. Agarwal says, a semi-casual shirt would typically have minimal detailing, with smaller print motives, medium checks, and sporty look. A casual shirt will have many evident detailing, larger prints and broader checks and range from pastel to bright color tones. Formal shirts are mostly in colors like white, blue, pink, grey or black while having small to medium checks and stripes. Most have a stiff collar and not much detailing. Lastly, semi-formal shirts have cutaway collars, fancy buttons and minimal details like embroidery or metal ids on the pocket. “I feel the share of each category to the total shirts market would be ranging from the mass segment 40 per cent, value segment 20 per cent, mid-market at 20 per cent, premium

SHIRTS MARKET at 10 per cent, bridge to luxury at 6 per cent and total luxury at 3 per cent,” he adds. With casual dressing becoming more popular, there is an exchange of trends and styles between casuals and formal. Formals become brighter with fashion elements, although stripes and checks still rule the segment. Exclusivity and product differentiation are the key reasons for buying high-end consumers today.

Designer elements enter shirt segment Experts feel the men’s shirts market in India is valued at Rs 37,132 crore, and it is the largest category among men’s apparel accounting for 28 percent of the total men’s wear market. Around 40 percent of the men’s shirt market is made up of formal and semiformal shirts. The menswear segment is under transition over the last decade as it evolves from limited colors and designs to distinct categories of formal, informal and semi-formal stylish shirts. There have also been several transitions in fabrics, fits, styles, and designs, with increasing fashion awareness among both men and women. Compared to other apparel categories, the shirting segment comprises a bigger share of the ready-to-wear market. The Indian conventional trend of buying fabric and getting a shirt stitched from tailor has lost its popularity, as consumers

show far higher acceptably of ready-to-wear shirts rather than ready-to-stitch fabric. Private labels and e-tailers have modified their pricing strategy and are offering shirts in low to mid-price range. The major organized players are trying to capture the market with ‘efficient sourcing, low overheads’ and, above all, higher volumes. Due to the increasing penetration of e-tailers, there is the easy availability of branded shirts at discounted prices in Tier-I and-II cities, thus increasing the share of organized shirts market The shirt category is divided into various price points ranging from the economy to the premium categories. These prices range from the mass market Rs 150 to Rs 300 to value segment Rs 400 to Rs 900, a mid-market Rs 900-Rs 1,500, premium Rs 1,800- Rs 3,000, bridge to luxury segment Rs 3000- Rs 7,000 and the absolute luxury segment for the elite Rs 7,000- Rs 20,000. “As far as our brand is concerned, we are witnessing double-digit growth for the last many years that stands at 15 to 20 per cent. There is so much pressure on brands nowadays on performance side. Customers need a good value for their products. So value addition to the product is our aim as a brand. We are growing volume-wise also. Currently, we make 5,000 shirts in a day that stands at total manufacturing of 15 lakh shirts in a year. Healthy growth is expected further,” says Koushik Marathe, Director of Cottonking. Fashion comes from global markets which later percolate to the Indian market. “The shirt is a promising category in terms of business and volumes. Men’s wardrobe requires more

Rahul Agarwal

Director, Donear NXG “Tthe share of each category to the total shirts market would be ranging from the mass segment 40 per cent, value segment 20 per cent, mid-market at 20 per cent, premium at 10 per cent, bridge to luxury at 6 per cent and total luxury at 3 per cent.”

Koushik Marathe Director of Cottonking

“The shirt is a promising category in terms of business and volumes. Men’s wardrobe requires more shirts than trousers and T-shirts. Roughly, there are always three to four shirts over two pairs of trousers so considering this ratio, the shirt segment is a promising one. Shirts industry has changed a lot over the years. People are value-conscious, price-sensitive, smart and have a lot of options to choose. Customers have a plethora of choices nowadays.’’ shirts than trousers and T-shirts. Roughly, there are always three to four shirts over two pairs of trousers so considering this ratio, the shirt segment is a promising one. Shirts industry has changed a lot over the years. People are value-conscious, pricesensitive, smart and have a lot of options to choose. Customers have a plethora of choices nowadays,’’ Marathe points out. Experts say over the next decade, the shirt market will be driven by the young generation of aspiring corporates and young millennials who are individualistic in their approach while driven by social media. The market will also see new trends in styling, fabric design, performance finishes, wider color choices as semi-formal shirts take over. Although semi-formals are taking the ramp by storm globally, it takes some time for this change to happen in the Indian markets which are still trying hard to shake off its fascination for tailored formal shirts. There is a huge potential for both domestic as well as global organized players who will be in a win-win situation if they can afford a versatile portfolio and efficient sourcing. Dressing up is not about the old stiff collars, rather its somewhere in-between fashion element in shirts, and this is what brands have to zone in on to keep profit levels soaring in a competitive market.

16 GLOBAL BRANDS

Indian brands brace up for global competition in domestic market The branded market has seen a transformation with domestic brands facing competition from big global players. To match up Indian brands need to brace up their pricing, and keep up with latest trends to continue attracting consumers, write Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

ndia, being the second-largest market in terms of population after China, plays a significant role for global fashion brands seeking next phase of growth. The scope of evolvement is massive as Indian buyers have extensively started adapting Western fashion trends. And to maintain a niche, domestic brands need to come up with exclusive strategies, invitational price points and an eccentric range of apparels and accessories for buyers. Nikhil Mohan & Nitin Mohan, Founders, Blackberrys explain, “The advent of global brands has brought a new wave of fashion in the market, affecting the purchase pattern of customers. With more brands coming on board, apparel business, especially the shirts category has grown significantly and is further expected to grow in the future.” In other words, the advent of global brands has expanded the Indian market by

• Indian buyers have extensively started adapting Western fashion trends • Domestic brands need to come up with exclusive strategies, invitational price points and an eccentric range of apparels for buyers • Customers in metros and mini-metros are fashion conscious and highly inclined towards latest trends • Indian brands have an advantage of understanding the cultural context and make products keeping in mind Indian consumers’ sentiments and emotional values • Entry of International brands has opened up the Indian market offering variety of fashion, giving them reasons to buy, irrespective of their needs. They say, “The entry of international brands has helped in opening up Indian market. In any category of clothing, a high inclination towards international trends can be seen. The influx

of international brands has brought in a lot of variety for customers and developed a strong competitive spirit amongst all home-grown brands. This has necessitated Indian brands to stay abreast with latest trends in order to be wellversed with growing needs of the customers.”

GLOBAL BRANDS Harkirat Singh, MD, Aero Club, makers of Woodland and WOODS says when they ventured into India (in the early 90s), things were completely different and unorganized, “If I may say there were a host of complexities. However, with time and advent of globalization and connectivity, dynamics of the apparel industry have changed dramatically. Then Indian apparel industry had no real innovation, which made most the brand products look similar to each other. Hence, consumers had no reason to pay more.” He feels the advent of international brands opened up new price points for the shirt industry. Foreign players positioned themselves at much higher price points that created a space for existing brands to move up without being seen as too expensive. With higher prices, higher margins and higher budgets, Indian brands invested in product development, consumer engagement, category expansion and excellent store experience.

Global brands adopt Indian market sentiments Many global fashion brands have entered the Indian apparel market. A lot of them are targeting the luxury and mid-luxury segment primarily catering to the upper middleclass. While these products justify the price-points, they at time are found wanting on the global standards. As to the Mohan duo say, “These brands are also restricted to predefined size set which at times does not cater to a diverse market like India. Owing to changing market dynamics, a lot of global brands have become more adept and flexible in their business models.” Adapting to diverse customer preferences, these brands are revising their pricing strategies to gain customer confidence while offering the best options to choose from ranging from quirky prints to plain outfits and vibrant hues like orange and purple to subtle shades of black and tan. So what goes behind the entry of foreign brands into India? Singh believes, when a global brand enters the Indian market, a lot of marketing campaigns run simultaneously to ensure brand visibility at each stage. They also work on individual products to match the Indian taste. “Launching new products and revamping existing products to satisfy the end user while maintaining the distinctive quality is one vital exercise that Woodland, being an international brand believes in practicing. 4th July discounts have been replaced by Diwali

offers as Indian consumers shop when a big festivals are around which impacts the shift in sales pattern for most international players and further make them practice glocalization technique.”

Innovative strategies to adopt growth Meanwhile, the entry of global brands has stirred healthy competitive spirit for domestic brands. Indian brands have adapted new strategies to uphold their market position. As Mohan’s point out, “Owing to increasing competition, a lot of brands are now planning to set-up their footprints in Tier-II, III cities, providing better range for consumer. Brands believe in offering value-added products such as multi-purpose suits with extra comfort, perfect fitting and premium quality to consumers. Fast changing consumer preferences, complex tax regime, and infrastructural tailback are some of the challenges brands are facing.” Indeed, global brands have increased competition for big domestic brands however, local brands are giving a tough fight, feels

Nikhil Mohan & Nitin Mohan

Founders, Blackberrys “The entry of international brands has helped in opening up Indian market. In any category of clothing, a high inclination towards international trends can be seen. The influx of international brands has brought in a lot of variety for customers and developed a strong competitive spirit amongst all home-grown brands. This has necessitated Indian brands to stay abreast with latest trends in order to be well-versed with growing needs of the customers.” Singh. The Indian consumer is well educated who knows what and how to shop while being well informed about their choices. They not only go for the name but also, believe in the value a brand delivers. Benefiting it, both international and local brands are customizing existing products to suit local taste and diving into rural market to suit the preferences and environment. “Indian brands have an advantage of understanding the cultural context and produce products keeping in mind the local consumers’ sentiments and emotional values. Indian consumers are fiercely ‘value for money’ conscious which makes them win big by going low on price. All of it has made global brands like Woodland to get into the skin of local environment and operate just like a local brand to retain as well as expand the existing consumer base.”

Small cities promise growth It is true that a lot of Indian and international brands have set up shop in small towns. The primary reason behind this move is wide scale fashion acceptance with evolution of consumer in these cities. As Mohan duo said, “Customers in metros and mini-metros are

18 GLOBAL BRANDS

Harkirat Singh

MD, Aero Club (Woodland & WOODS) “The advent of international brands opened up new price points for the shirt industry. Foreign players positioned themselves at much higher price points that created a space for existing brands to move up without being seen as too expensive. With higher prices, higher margins and higher budgets, Indian brands invested in product development, consumer engagement, category expansion and excellent store experience.” fashion conscious and highly inclined towards latest trends. We have also been seeing a growth in affluent middle class along with rapid urbanization across India. With rising aspiration towards branded clothes, lifestyle changes along with higher purchasing power in Tier II and III cities India have become one of the most promising markets for the retail industry, indicating small town’s readiness to welcome well-known brands.” India economic growth, and rising purchasing power has naturally made emerging cities promising untapped markets for brands. The EY report points that 26.4 trillion of household income in India is concentrated in Tier IIIII as opposed to 800 billion in India’s eight metros. With an aspiration to ‘look and feel great’, this demographic dividend provides a significant boost to the branded products in India. E-commerce has also played its role in partially bringing brands in the forefront. Owing to increasing internet penetration in Tier II and Tier III cities, e-tailers are also crafting strategies to make headway into smaller towns. Thus, small towns are ready for big global brands. Woodland already has a widespread presence across the country through its exclusive outlets as well as presence in

small and large format MBOs and is looking to further strengthen its niche through more exclusive stores (EBOs) in tier II-III cities as a part of its long-term growth plan.” An Accenture Strategy study says, nearly 60 per cent of rural population intends to buy or already consume branded products. Taking a leaf from this, Singh shares, “While the consumer base may be large for global brands to leverage the rapidly emerging opportunity, they need to relook at innovative ways to succeed in cost-effective implementation of brand building and bridging the hardships of travel to nearby towns and cities. While being an international brand, Woodland also understands Indian market dynamics since its

inception in 1992 and has a strong foothold widely spread across the country.”

Learnings from foreign brands The presence of international brands in has provided an opportunity to domestic brands to learn and incorporate best practices to improve business performance. As Mohan’s say, “International fashion brands have also introduced Indian brands to enhanced product designs and advanced technologies. With renewed competitive spirit, Indian brands are now willingly going beyond to have a stronghold on every consumer’s mind.” Singh sums up, “Foreign players have prompted numerous advancements and helped local brands in settling on extinctive decisions. Their growth strategy and success have few lessons that a local market can follow to move ahead with a faster pace.” Woodland, being one amongst the renowned international players, always focuses on: Feedback: Customer data collection from streets to malls to know what people like-dislike and how to cater to their needs. It helps reducing uncertainty in any decision that a brand takes; Division of work: International brands prompts specialization in the creation of products. Seeing their coordination, local players can improve proficiency too; Optimum utilization of resources: Emergence of foreign names has made the existing brands learn how to work strategically to utilize much from the resources; Willing to change course and adapt: Adapt quickly by constantly assessing and reacting to the environment and competitive market.

20 BRAND LEADERS ZODIAC

‘We have always been at the helm of bringing international trends to India before others’

Salman Noorani Managing Director

“We offer Kent, Button Down, Mandarin and the fashionable extreme cutaway also. Discerning customers ask for double cuffs. Our single cuffs are more popular due to its versatility.” Tell us about the brand. Zodiac makes men’s clothing and accessories. We use ultra fine pure fibers to create new lighter fabrics, reinventing classics as feather-weight luxuries. Zodiac shirts are crafted with an almost invisible 21 stitches per

inch. Each shirt is embellished with genuine mother-of-pearl buttons. Zodiac has a long and intensive sartorial heritage, developing a keen sense of how fine tailoring works for men. It articulates a contemporary approach to design by artfully marrying Super 140s and higher fabrics with modern styling in a line of ultra lightweight suits and trousers. Zodiac has always been at the helm of bringing international trends to India well before any other brands. We don’t resort to discounting to attract customers to our stores, we only use fashion trends. We have over 120 COCO stores across India and are present at 10 Shoppers Stop counters. We can see there is business to be done in small towns. And this can be done without offering discounts. Our challenge is to grow these markets on the strength of our design and quality – basically the price/value relationship. We are also strengthening our efforts on being eco-friendly by implementing even more systems and processes in our manufacturing to conserve the environment.

What are the style trends? Windsor or Cutaway are our most popular collar styles. We offer Kent, Button Down, Mandarin and the fashionable extreme cutaway also. Discerning customers ask for double cuffs. Our single cuffs are more popular due to its versatility. The ratio between fashion and basic shirts in our core range is more or less 60:40. Occasion wear is big. Both formal/

wedding and casual/athleisure customers are demanding premium fabrics like our two ply Giza cotton and Pure French flax/linen. We launched a pure linen shirt program back in summer 2004 and till today our linen range remains unmatched – shirts in pure French and Italian linen are our hallmark in summer. Customers are asking for higher quality, finer fabrics because as they evolve their tastes and preferences grow. They also demand the very latest in men’s wear because information and trends are now accessible to all. Stripes are on trend since 2019 and we have seen excellent sell throughs in our Zodiac Barboni and Vivace collections. Stripes are our mainstay. In fact, we were the first men’s wear brand to bring back stripes in spring/summer 2019.In Z3 Relaxed Luxury apart from stripes we have seen corduroy and denim doing very well. Zod is a mixed bag between prints, stripes and the black tie/red carpet look. Depending on spring/summer or autumn/winter the color palette does change and we have seen a resurgence of olive and burgundy this winter – however black and white remain on top.

What are your expectations from the forthcoming season? Consumer sentiment has not been at its best over the past few seasons and we have seen the market is on discount now almost all year long. Therefore, we believe that it is best to be a little cautious for the next season.

BRAND LEADERS

TURTLE

‘For the new season we have a range of casual shirts and polos’

Shitanshu Jhunjhunwalla Director

Tell us about the brand. Turtle launched in 1993 caters to men. For the new season we have a range of casual shirts and polos based on the color of the season: yellow. It includes checks, prints and stripes. We have innovative fabrics like perfume shirts (shirts which emit a mild fragrance when rubbed against the body), anti-spill shirts

(liquid stains can easily be washed off), insta cool shirts (reduces body temperature by a few degrees). We have a checked collection planned for cotton and formal trousers. Then there is a range of handwoven shirts. We have 120 EBOs, 1200 MBOs and 350 large formats.

What are the style trends? Fashion is moving towards a clean look and making strong style statements.

How do you see the popular shirt segment? Popular shirts or high fashion shirts do not have many buyers in Tier I cities. Not many are clear about which direction to take for positioning the product. Bigger brands are focusing only on the premium casual and formal wear segment leaving the popular shirt segment for unbranded and regional players. Because bigger brands are clear with their brand positioning and product offerings they make. Their target consumer is pre defined. So there leaves little room for the popular shirt segment. Which is small and scattered. So, they prefer foregoing that sale. Among the challenges being faced in the popular segment by brands are pricing and branding. There is also the problem of which market segment or audience to cater to. The target buyer for popular shirts is in the bottom of the pyramid. So the base is wide and varied in tastes and preferences. Here quality parameters and brand status are on

“The target buyer for popular shirts is in the bottom of the pyramid. So the base is wide and varied in tastes and preferences. Here quality parameters and brand status are on the bottom of manufacturers’ vision list.” the bottom of manufacturers’ vision list. They make stylized shirts with easily available raw material and take home handsome margins as they can retail them at higher MRPs due to the perceived value of the garment to the consumer. The market for popular shirts is Tier II and III.

22 54 BRAND LEADERS BLACKBERRYS

‘We add utility and functionality to products’ focus is art-driven prints and another super flex collection for stretchable denims.

What are your retail channels? Blackberrys is present in over 350 Indian cities. Total exclusive stores are 280 of which 170 are company owned. We have 800-plus multi-brand outlets and are in large format retail such as Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Pantaloons and Central. North and West are our strongest markets. The South remains an important zone for us. The company will be increasing its presence in Tier II and III cities. We are aggressively planning to expand our presence in the country.

Nikhil Mohan and Nitin Mohan Founders, Blackberrys

“Blackberrys is present in over 350 Indian cities. Total exclusive stores are 280 of which 170 are company owned. We have 800plus multi-brand outlets and are in large format retail such as Lifestyle, Shoppers Stop, Pantaloons and Central. North and West are our strongest markets.” Tell us about the brand. Blackberrys makes fashion accessible to aspiring and driven men. For the forthcoming season, we plan innovative campaigns. The focus is on adding utility and functionality to products and adding versatility to garments, craft hybrid garments with comfort elements and offer multi-occasion garments. The new collection is a perfect blend of suave look and classic styling. Blackberrys is a one-stop shop for formal, ceremonial, casual and hipster fashion wear with the brands Blackberrys Formal, Blackberrys Casuale and Urban Blackberrys. Blackberrys Formal has tuxedos, light jackets, suits and non-iron shirts. We are introducing fabrics with a sheen to add a superior touch to the whole look. A rise in stripes and pop colors can also be expected from our formal collection. Blackberrys Casuale covers smart casual dressing for men with khakis, shirts, polos, blazers and jackets. Urban Blackberrys has a collection where the

Has the advent of global brands changed the business for shirts? Entry of international brands has helped in opening up the market and has brought a new wave of fashion in the market, affecting the purchase pattern of customers. With more brands coming on board, the shirt category has grown significantly and is expected to grow in future. Talking about shirts, Indian buyers have extensively started adopting Western fashion trends. Hence, it has become essential for Indian brands to come up with exclusive

strategies, invitational price points and an attractive range of apparels and accessories for buyers. Global fashion brands are new entrants into the Indian apparel market. A lot of these brands target the luxury and midluxury segments. While these products justify the price points, they are restricted to a predefined size set which at times does not cater to a diverse market like India.

What are the challenges? Fast changing consumer preferences, a complex tax regime, and infrastructural obstacles are some of the challenges brands face.

What are the style trends in shirts? These include value-added products such as multi-purpose shirts with extra comfort, perfect fitting and premium quality. Options to choose from range from quirky prints to plain outfits and vibrant hues like orange and purple to subtle shades of black and tan.

BRAND LEADERS

CELIO

‘We will continue to focus on casuals for future growth’ Vinit Doshi

Head-Product, Sourcing and Retail Planning “Sports and athleisure are growing as a category even in shirts. Knits may also pose a challenge in future since millennials prefer knits for sports.”

Tell us about the brand. We have a lot of new fabrics and innovations like non iron shirts in formal, knit fabrics in casual, and new fibers and blends like Lyocel. We are present in more than 500 MBOs and large formats and have around 50 EBOs.

Tell us about the shirt market in India. Shirts are the biggest category in men’s wear. Casuals are growing faster than formals. For Celio, shirts are one of the fastest growing categories growing at more than 20 per cent. We are more into casual and smart shirts. Formal is less than 10 per cent for us. We will continue to focus on casuals for future growth. For us formal is going to be

limited. Shirts are a relatively easy category but trends are changing quickly. The relaxed dress code should drive semi-formal and semicasual shirts offtake. I don’t think strict shirting, whether it is formal or casual, is facing any crisis. But there is a need to remain watchful as cotton dependency may reduce and new blends, environment-friendly fibers, recycled fibers are increasingly being used in shirting. Sports and athleisure are growing as a category even in shirts. Knits may also pose a challenge in future since millennials prefer knits for sports. This threat is being handled by adopting newer fabric bases for men. Globally semi-formals are trending but it may take some time for this change to be seen in the Indian market.

24 56 BRAND LEADERS SPYKAR

‘We have a mix of classic, trending and high fashion’

Abhishek Yadav Design Head

“Linen is an awesome fabric made of fibers from flax and is strong, absorbent and dries faster than cotton. Being laborious to manufacture it is a little more expensive than cotton but has great properties and will be looked at in future

are becoming minimal. As a brand, Spykar focuses on fits, fabric quality and minimal yet eye-catching detailing on its shirts. Spykar shirts are classic and trendy with some twist of detail which makes them a fashion product. Our spring/summer range is a wide mix of checks, stripes, prints and various shades of solid colors. These patterns and designs are further divided in themes which give a very distinct look to the product and give a person the freedom to select the product of his choice. In collars we have the classic collar, mandarin collar, buttondown collar, spread collar and some more variations which are trendy. There are multiple cuff variations seen across the range. There are square cuffs with single and double buttons, square cut cuffs and rounded French cuffs. Designers give various kinds of details and play with varying cuff heights which complement the shirt. Checks in different weaves and composition are trending. All over prints are doing well with Spykar. Dobbies and structures are in demand and are preferred when the color is solid. We have a good mix

Tell us about the brand. Spykar, established in 1992, is India’s leading jeans and casual wear brand for young men and women. The collection exudes an individual and contemporary style. Spykar has three distinct lines:, Purist, YnR and Actif. Purist is a classic product line; YnR is trending fashion of the time; Actif is a line of hi-fashion products. The Purist is semi-formal, while YnR and Actif are casual lines. We are available pan India across 240 exclusive outlets, 1,400 multi-brand outlets, all key large format stores and e-commerce portals.

Please elaborate on the current style trends in shirts. Our shirt range is a mix of classic fashion, trending fashion and high fashion, spread out as: 25 per cent, 60 per cent and 15 per cent respectively. This mix covers various patterns and trends across the world. Styling details

of checks, stripes, plains and prints. Apart from solid dyed plain shirts which are about 25 percent of the range, there are vertical and horizontal stripes which are about 15 percent. Checks having various patterns and fabric quality are about 35 percent, different variations of placement and allover prints are about 25 percent. As for colors, along with indigo, shades of mustard, olive, black, navy, khaki and earthy tones are being preferred.

What do you think of linen? Linen is an awesome fabric made of fibers from flax and is strong, absorbent and dries faster than cotton. Being laborious to manufacture it is a little more expensive than cotton but has great properties and will be looked at in future. This fabric is exceptionally cool and fresh in hot and humid weather. Being a natural fiber it is eco-friendly also.

BRAND LEADERS

NUMERO UNO

‘We use sustainable fabrics and processes’ Tell us about the brand.

Manjula Gandhi Chief Product Officer

Numero Uno has around 240 EBOs, 600 MBOs and shop in shops and is present in large formats like Shoppers Stop and Central. We sell through online platforms like Flipkart and Amazon and also retail through our own website.

For the new season, we have used fabrics like cotton and blended woven and knits in bright checks, multicolor and mono color prison stripes, slubby textured surfaces, soft tencel and modal blends, stretch fabrics, washed indigo denims and dobbies, tie n dye prints and nature-inspired tropical and leafy floral prints. Sustainable fabrics and processes have been incorporated into the range. Our new collection has two main themes: Reconnect and Empower Up. Reconnect explores the crossover between nature and craft. The collection flows from sustainable design inspiration to outdoor safari and culminates with a melting pot of mismatched craft and traditions. The story covers various moods of outdoor safari and retro music culture. Empower Up on the other hand is an upbeat, bright, playful and bold trend that takes a mix n match approach to styling and design where individuality, diversity and a range of subcultures are celebrated. It celebrates the spirit of youth and self expression. Reconnect’s colors range from neutrals and soft pastel pink and sea foam to an earthy palette of warm rust, olive, dark red and mango yellow. The Empower up story has a more youthful and brighter color palette to brighten up the summer holiday mood. Numero Uno has around 240 EBOs, 600 MBOs and shop in shops and is present in large formats like Shoppers Stop and Central. We sell through online platforms like Flipkart and Amazon and also retail through our own website. As for new markets, we are trying to cater to Tier III and IV towns and cities of north India.

Tell us about India’s shirt market. Shirts account for nearly 12 per cent of the total apparel market in India. Men’s shirts make up 94 per cent of the total shirt market. They are also the largest men’s apparel category constituting 28 per cent of the total men’s wear market. The past few years have seen a huge transformation. There has been an evident shift of customer preferences from traditional formal shirts towards casual and fashion driven stylish shirts. Customers want more options in fabrics, colors, fits and are willing to experiment with their looks. There has been an increased demand for customised shirts. Hence, retailers/brands have introduced various size segments like slim fit,

skinny fit to cater to various demographics. In line with the global trend of casualization, the Indian shirt market is anticipated to witness a huge demand for semi formal and casual shirts vis a vis formal shirts. Due to the fast changing lifestyle of the younger generation, and due to the need for versatile clothing, they are demanding clothing that will suit multiple scenarios, where they can move easily from work to play to outing to party. Hence, they are opting for more semi formal or semi casual clothes. So the lines between formals, semi-formals and casuals, semi-casuals are slowly blurring. Innovative designs, fits and color combinations will induce fashion conscious consumers to consider semi formal and casual shirts as alternatives to formal shirts.

26 BRAND LEADERS CLASSIC POLO

‘We have seamless denim and special finishes’ What are your new collections? We have seamless denim and special finishes. Cotton has been enhanced with special processes, juxtaposed patterns and mix and match of natural and performance fabrics. The dominating color of the season is blue, followed by black and white, shades of olive, brown, deep muted red and orange popsicle. We are planning adaptive clothing, seamless denim and biker denim.

What is your retail presence? Classic Polo has 150 exclusive brand outlets, in 175 large format stores and 5000 multi-brand outlets across the country. By year end, we hope to have 200 EBOs.

Usha Periasamy Director

“Classic Polo has 150 exclusive brand outlets, in 175 large format stores and 5000 multi-brand outlets across the country. By year end, we hope to have 200 EBOs.”

Any expansion plans? The brand is scaling up and eyeing dynamic expansion across Tier II and III. We would like to follow sustainability from the forthcoming season as a mark of respect to nature and fellow human beings. Classic Polo is keen on transforming itself into an influential and strong youth brand and an omni-channel leader in retail/product and consumer experience and a trendsetter in terms of innovation and fashion.

What are your expectations from the forthcoming season? In

the

current

challenging

scenario,

offering fashion at sharp prices will be the best marketing strategy for brands. We have marginally grown over the last year and are hoping to move with the same tempo till the wend of financial year. The brand will be up by 15 to 20 per cent over last year.

Tell us about the shirt market. The unorganized segment is in demand because of the price and fits it offers. It is quick to market and does creative work using little resources. It is extremely localized and designs for micro consumers in the region. Similar products and designs are not produced by big players. India is a global market and metros are in sync with global trends and influences. Tier II cities like Nagpur, Pune are catching up with global trends. And 42 per cent of apparel purchases are done through the local market due to strong rooted consumer behavior patterns. Regional players are better performing than national brands as they understand the psychology and local preferences. But big brands are countering the strength of local players by better understanding and targeting their consumers. They are disrupting buying patterns through discounts, emotional appeals and promotion, making the product available online. Business casuals, tee shirts and denim like calf fit denim have maximum sales through local players. The unorganized market is a necessary evil. Without a villain, a hero cannot exist. Organised players should leverage the opportunity and become heroes through price/product/quality to tap into the unorganized market.

BRAND LEADERS

WOODLAND

‘Small towns are ready for big global brands’ space for existing brands to move up without being seen as too expensive. With higher prices, higher margins and higher budgets, Indian brands invested in product development, consumer engagement, category expansion and excellent store experience. Entry of global brands has certainly increased competition for domestic brands. But domestic brands are no pushovers. The Indian consumer knows what’s what and does not go for only the name. He looks for the value a brand delivers. Indian brands have an advantage of understanding the cultural context and produces products keeping in mind consumers’ sentiments and emotional values. Indian consumers are fiercely value for money conscious. All of this has made global brands like Woodland get into the skin of the local environment and operate just like a local brand to retain as well as expand the existing consumer base. While the consumer base may be large enough for global brands, they need to run a lot of marketing campaigns to ensure brand visibility at each stage. Alongside, they also have to work on their individual products to match Indian tastes. Indian consumers shop when a big festival is around. This impacts a shift in sales pattern for most international players and further makes them practice glocalization techniques.

Harkirat Singh Managing Director

“Nearly 60 per cent of the rural population intends to buy or already consumes branded products. As India grows economically, rising purchasing power has naturally made emerging cities promising.” Tell us about the brand. Woodland came to India in 1992. We have a strong foothold spread across the country through our exclusive outlets as well as a presence in small and large format MBOs. We will open more exclusive stores in Tier II and III cities. Launching new products, and revamping existing products to satisfy the end user while maintaining the distinctive quality, is one vital exercise that Woodland being an international brand believes in practicing. We adapt quickly

by constantly assessing and reacting to the environment and the competitive market.

Has the advent of global brands changed the business for shirts category? It has opened up new price points for the shirt industry. Foreign players positioned themselves at a much higher price points that created

Do you think joint ventures help global brands in India? Yes, they do. Investing on their own will definitely enable global brands to have more control on their business in India, but it is not easy and comes at a cost. One can’t ignore the fact that the diversity of local market is often too complex for foreign players. Thus, joint ventures help foreign brands distribute risks.

Are small towns ready for big global brands? Nearly 60 per cent of the rural population intends to buy or already consumes branded products. As India grows economically, rising purchasing power has naturally made emerging cities promising. A huge amount of household income in India is concentrated in Tier II and III markets as opposed to big metros. With an aspiration to look and feel great, this demographic dividend provides a significant boost to branded products in India. Owing to increasing internet penetration in Tier II and III cities, e-tailers are crafting strategies to make headway into smaller towns.

28 POPULAR SHIRTS

Affordability no longer the only USP, latest trends a bigger pull to buy The popular shirt category is a huge one in India. With smaller players holding bigger control over the market, they have to keep up with latest trends and continue innovating while keeping a check on quality and price to be successful, write Ajanta Ganguly and Ajay Goswami

s Indian consumers’ preferences change and wallets loosen up, different men’s shirt segments are competing hard to fly off the shelves faster than the other. Due to the extreme price sensitivity of Indian consumer, manufacturers are keeping a versatile portfolio of brands for every economic category of consumers with both expensive luxury brands alongside the more affordable ones in the economy section. Also known as popular shirts, comfort, easy-care properties, affordability factor, and simple design options

• Comfort, easy-care properties, affordability, and simple designs major driving force • Small and unorganised players have bigger market share • Big players sell this as a niche segment under the economy range • Segment becoming saturated with a large vacuum forming due to limited variety • Preference for such shirts is becoming lesser day by day • Smart branding policy and pocket-friendly pricing are major issues in popular shirt category

POPULAR SHIRTS are the major driving forces of this niche segment.

Affordability is not the only USP Popular shirt is an uncharted category without any specific detailing is part of the main portfolio of both small brands and unbranded players as well as the big players who sell this as a niche segment under the economy range. Doing great business in the popular shirt market is always dependent on competitive pricing and the right location, which will determine the success of your business. This segment is becoming saturated as time passes by as fashion is progressing rapidly and research and development is not able to keep up. In a country where purse strings are tightly ties to the heartstrings, the popular segment will reach newer heights over the next few years riding on innovations in fabrics while

prices remain steady. However, this segment is becoming saturated with a large vacuum forming due to limited variety, color range and designs. Preference for such shirts is becoming lesser day by day. With big brands focusing more on the premium segment and small players concentrating on regional markets, popular shirts in the economy range are not a unified whole apparel segment. The focus is rapidly shifting towards premium segments to create differentiation from competition, with the bigger brands not going out of their way to showcase these collections. “The challenges being faced by the popular segment is about both pricing and branding. Providing quality product at competitive price is difficult. Branding also becomes key in a situation such as this, to create trust and differentiation. Big brands do house shirts in this segment, but focus on it is limited. Given the availability with other brands, it does not

Kuntal Raj Jain Director, Duke

“Brands and corporates have a certain market reputation which they have to live up to. Bigger players have to make sure their products exceed every season. Popular shirts being the lame category without any specific detailing doesn’t fulfil the criteria of brands thus big players hesitate to venture into the segment. Over the last few years, popular shirts fell slightly in the mid-priced category and majorly in the economic category.” provide an opportunity for differentiation for the brand and rather becomes a basic expectation from consumers. The target consumers looking for popular shirts can be defined as individuals looking for evergreen designs that will act as basic wear in their wardrobe with the ratio of popular shirts being around 85 percent in the total men’s shirts market,’’ says Praveen Mutha, CMD of Cool Colors.

Popular shirts sell well in the unorganized segment Experts say Indian shirts market is expected to grow at a compounded annual growth rate of 6 per cent to reach Rs 81,578 crore by 2027 from an estimated market size of Rs 44,830 crore in 2017. The value segment between Rs 801-Rs 2,500 is the major contributor in men’s shirt segment constituting 52 per cent of the market, the mid-segment at 40 per cent followed by premium or luxury at 8 per cent. Thus if manufacturers of the popular shirts worked hard enough in showcasing a more versatile and global portfolio, they could be leaders of the pack for a longer time. “Brands and corporates have a certain market reputation which they have to live up to. Bigger players have to make sure their products exceed every season. Popular shirts

30 POPULAR SHIRTS

Praveen Mutha CMD, Cool Colors

“The challenges being faced by the popular segment is about both pricing and branding. Providing quality product at competitive price is difficult. Branding also becomes key in a situation such as this, to create trust and differentiation. Big brands do house shirts in this segment, but focus on it is limited.” being the lame category without any specific detailing doesn’t fulfil the criteria of brands thus big players hesitate to venture into the segment. Over the last few years, popular shirts fell slightly in the mid-priced category and majorly in the economic category,”explains Kuntal Raj Jain, Director, Duke, a leading domestic apparels brand. “The main market for popular shirts is Tier II and III cities. As per capita income is less in comparison and so is the purchasing power in these cities. Unorganized segment is the biggest player in popular shirts as the reasonable cost of operations and lower pricing makes it feasible for these players to enter the segment without being high on fashion, fewer investments in qualitative garments and not using enriching colors which are one of the USP’s of branded shirts,’’ Jain adds. The branded segment in India is at par with global markets though there is still a gap and with most of international brands having entered India, the category has grown immensely. Omnichannel retail has helped the branded segment immensely.

Branded segment attracts many more consumers In spite of rapidly flourishing brands, the number of private labels and international labels is still low, with the high end brands catering to a small percentage of the Indian population. Even these private labels and premium brands have modified their pricing

POPULAR SHIRTS strategy and offering shirts in low to midprice range. There is still a section of middle class who prefer the unbranded local garment maker over branded apparels due to cheaper cost. This is where manufacturers of popular shirts are concentrating. The possibility of defining a target audience in popular shirts category depends upon the availability and viability of the portfolio. Thus readymade labels do get an edge as they are in a position to cater to both aspects. Tailor made brand of economy shirt cannot be as versatile. Both smart branding policy and pocket-friendly pricing are major issues in the popular shirt segment. “We target the aspiring Indian man in the age group 18 to 40 years. The twin slabs of GST are a major challenge faced by brands in popular segment. The ratio of popular shirts in total men’s shirts market is around 40 per cent. The unorganized sector is the biggest player as it has the ability to update latest trends easily. My advice to those entering this segment is they must have a strong marketing strategy generating consumer pull, a popular brand ambassador and pricing has to be competitive,” advises Naveen Gamini, Managing Director, Twills. The popular shirt segment is a huge one so if new entrants can move with the trends and continue innovating by keeping a check on quality and price, there is a huge potential for them. Bigger brands are focusing more on premium casual and formal wear as these require more machinery upgradations which is easier for bigger players rather than going for designer and pattern shirts which requires skilled laborers and disturb the production cycle, which is best left to the smaller unbranded players.

No watertight category for popular shirts With shopping malls mushrooming across India, selling branded T-shirts and clothes to youngsters, brand awareness has increased manyfold in the last few years. People are

Naveen Gamini

Managing Director, Twills “The ratio of popular shirts in total men’s shirts market is around 40 per cent. The unorganized sector is the biggest player as it has the ability to update latest trends easily. My advice to those entering this segment is they must have a strong marketing strategy generating consumer pull, a popular brand ambassador and pricing has to be competitive.”

Rajnish Sethia Director, Success

“Nowadays it is difficult to set a target audience for a particular category, anyone can buy anything. This segment is basically for those who want to move with the trend and remain updated. The bigger brands always try to stick to basic shirt category which gives maximum production and lesser infrastructure expenses whereas designer and pattern shirts retard the production cycle thereby increasing the infrastructure cost.” spending more on shopping as they have more disposable incomes and like to wear clothes from well-known brands. So, the branded segment will always show signs of growth and

development as a whole. These brands offer grants with a more economically priced tag, as these are often picked up by a well-heeled customer as an add-on or by a middle-class customer who cannot afford premium range but still wants to wear the brand. “Nowadays it is difficult to set a target audience for a particular category, anyone can buy anything. This segment is basically for those who want to move with the trend and remain updated. The bigger brands always try to stick to basic shirt category which gives maximum production and lesser infrastructure expenses whereas designer and pattern shirts retard the production cycle thereby increasing the infrastructure cost,” opines Rajnish Sethia, Director, Success. He says, the unorganised sector is the biggest player in popular shirts as it has lesser infrastructure costs and good margins so they always come forward to fill the vacuum in this segment which can yield easier sales and maximum profits. With the help of digital technology and online presence, this segment is not limited to any particular area or city like Tier II and III towns, rather it has a market in every nook and corner of the country. The growth of Indian shirt market is currently driven by the aspirational youth in the corporate sector who are driven by innovative designs and a versatile mix of fits, color and fabric combinations. Driven by a credit card dependent society, impulse buying and splurging on clothes in shopping malls is more often the rule rather than exception. The popular shirt segment where the main USP is lower price tag is not as popular as before. The entry of international brands and growing exposure to latest trends is changing consumer purchase decisions. Consumers today seem to follow Karl Lagerfeld, the German fashion designer’s saying that “Trendy is the last stage before tacky,” by spending that little bit more to be fashion savvy.

32 BRAND LEADERS COOL COLORS

‘Every year we develop new fashion styles’

Praveen Mutha CMD

“The business comes down to competitive pricing and the right location. These are the key factors that determine the success of your business.” Tell us about the brand. We recently launched blazers and T-shirts and four way Lycra trousers. Each season provides an opportunity to recreate our product range. Every year we develop new styles that set us apart from other brands. Currently, we have launched our collection of striped shirts in the market. We are prepared for a good season this year for bookings and sales. We have the right designs and the necessary

markets to achieve our targets. We present in over 2200 MBOs and 222 shop in shops across 980 cities in India. In addition we have a presence in the Middle East and Singapore. We see expansion opportunities in Tier II and Tier III cities. They haven’t reached the saturation levels seen in metro cities.

How do you see the popular shirt segment? Out of the total men’s shirts market the

ratio of popular shirts is around 85 per cent. This segment caters to individuals who look for evergreen designs that will act as basic wear in their wardrobe. Pricing will always be a concern for the popular segment. Providing a quality product at competitive price is difficult. Branding also becomes key in a situation such as this in order to create trust and differentiation. The business comes down to competitive pricing and the right location. These are the key factors that determine the success of your business.

Why is the popular shirt segment dominated by unbranded and regional players? Over the past few years, big brand’s focus has shifted towards more premium segments in order to create differentiation from competition. Though big brands do make popular shirts, they don’t heavily showcase these collections. Their focus on it is limited. Given the availability with other brands, it does not provide an opportunity for differentiation for the brand and rather becomes a basic expectation from consumers.

What are the styles in popular shirts? Classic designs like checks, print and plains will always remain in style.

BRAND LEADERS

TWILLS

‘We redefine men’s style’

Naveen Gamini Managing Director

“We are adopting marketing strategies to reach our targeted audiences in Tier II and III across India. We work closely with business partners, stakeholders, vendors and even end-users to grow our business by predicting upcoming fashion trends and market needs. We strive to leverage customer reach, which is why we have invested heavily on implementing hyper connectivity at our manufacturing and distribution centers.”

Tell us about the brand. Twills’ has been redefining men’s style since 1999 with casuals, semi-formals, trousers, denims, hoodies, kurtas, T-shirts and accessories. It’s aimed at 18 to 40 year olds and is a value for money product. We take casuals seriously and transform semi-formals into powerful style statements. All garmenting is done in-house with an integrated R&D center. We expect around 20 to 25 per cent sales growth in the forthcoming season. The brand has 135 exclusive outlets, 3500 multibrand outlets and in 131 large formats like Reliance, Central, Lulu and Brand Factory. We are adopting marketing strategies to reach our targeted audiences in Tier II and III across India. We work closely with business partners, stakeholders, vendors and even end-users to grow our business by predicting

upcoming fashion trends and market needs. We strive to leverage customer reach, which is why we have invested heavily on implementing hyper connectivity at our manufacturing and distribution centers.

How do you see the popular shirt segment? Shirts define the garment industry and contribute majorly in numbers. Out of the total men’s shirts market the ratio of popular shirts is around 40 per cent. Even big brands sell this segment under economy range. GST is a major challenge faced by brands in this segment. To do business in the popular shirt market a brand needs strong marketing strategies to generate consumer pull, have a popular brand ambassador and have competitive pricing.

34 BRAND LEADERS DUKE

‘New collection offers stylish options in lush fabrics, trending colors, design patterns’

Kuntal Raj Jain Director

“Duke is in 4,000 MBOs and more than 360 EBOs across India. We are at chain stores like Central, Reliance Trends, Brand Factory and Shoppers Stop. Online we are on Flipkart and Amazon. We have our own online shopping portal, where we offer free delivery and online payment support. We also offer cash on delivery.

business growth in India. We are targeting rural markets and unexplored rural areas because there is a huge market potential in these areas. We are also expanding in segments like footwear and accessories.

How do you see the popular shirt segment?

Tell us about the brand. With a strong focus on fashion and style, Duke is aimed at the young cosmopolitan Indian offering them the season’s latest trends and catering to their ever-changing fashion needs. The exquisitely crafted collection strikes a fine balance between eye-catching styles and immense comfort. The new collection offers stylish options in lush fabrics, trending colors, designer patterns and prints all inspired by Europe. The trendsetting collection exudes an easy elegance of summertime chic with vibrant highlighter hues and a touch of show-stopping sophistication with shimmery oceanic blues. Unique patterns and strong tones create a modern take on a preppy classic. In fabrics, we have used cotton, PC, techno blends, washed and many more. We are targeting a 30 per cent sales growth from the forthcoming season. Duke is in 4,000 MBOs and more

than 360 EBOs across India. We are at chain stores like Central, Reliance Trends, Brand Factory and Shoppers Stop. Online we are on Flipkart and Amazon. We have our own online shopping portal, where we offer free delivery and online payment support. We also offer cash on delivery. Duke continues to make products that are value for money and has created loyal customers who will settle for nothing else. Expansion will create a centralized, multiproduct engine for wholesale and retail distribution, supporting Duke’s long-term

The segment is becoming saturated with time by. As fashion is progressing at a fast pace, the future of this category is diminishing. This category has a limited variety and color range. Other challenges are in pricing and branding. Big brands and corporates are not willing to venture into the popular shirt segment. They have their reputations to consider. Popular shirts, a lame category without any specific detailing, don’t fulfill the criteria of brands and thus big players hesitate to venture into the popular shirt segment. Popular shirts fall sometimes in the mid-priced category but majorly in the economical category. Unorganised sector is the biggest player in popular shirts. This segment suits them since operational costs and investments are low. The main markets for popular shirts are Tier II and III, where incomes and purchasing power are low.

BRAND LEADERS

SUCCESS

‘Popular shirt category has a huge market’ Tell us about the brand.

Give us an insight on shirt segment.

Success was established in 1996 aimed at men. We offer suits, blazers, jackets, waistcoats, shirts, trousers and denims and also accessories. With many weddings in the coming season, we expect good sales of our suits, blazers, bandhgalas, Indowesterns and party wear shirts and trousers. The new collection has lightweight blazers, pastel shades shirts, cotton trousers in light shades etc.

Shirts are an integral part of men’s apparel. The segment is open to innovations in fabrics and patterns. But popular shirt makers are not keeping up with trends and market requirements. Big brands focus on premium casual and formal wear as they require machinery upgradation which is easier them. So they leave designer and pattern shirts for smaller players. Big brands mostly focus on the basic shirt category which allows huge production volumes. Popular shirts are for those who want to move with the trends and remain updated. The popular shirt category is huge. So, if new entrants can move with the trends and continue innovating by keeping a check on quality and price, there is a huge potential for them in this category. Unorganised sector has lower infrastructure costs and good margins. So they are attracted to this segment as it yields faster sales and good profits.

What is your retail presence? We have 25 exclusive brand outlets throughout Eastern India. In addition, we are in 375 multibrand outlets and 50 large format stores like Central, Brand Factory and Pantaloons. We plan to open brand outlets throughout India and also want to enter Tier II and Tier III cities.

Rajnish Sethia Managing Director

36 BRAND LEADERS COTTONKING

‘We make 5,000 shirts a day that translates to 15 lakh shirts a year’

Koushik Marathe Director

“We are majorly a cottonbased brand and have cotton linen shirts also. The color palette is: blue, green and maroon. We have been growing at 15 to 20 per cent for the last many years.” Tell us about the brand. We make shirts, trousers and T-shirts. We have been making shirts since 1996; both formal and semi formal. Currently we make 5,000 shirts a day that translates to 15 lakh shirts a year. We have different types of shirts, some with a carbon peach finish, stainresistant shirts and a range of shirts named

Aerosoft. There are a variety of options in designs and prints. We have floral prints, checks and stripes. We are majorly a cotton-based brand and have cotton linen shirts also. The color palette is: blue, green and maroon. We have been growing at 15 to 20 per cent for the last many years. We have adopted many sustainable practices like a zero discharge plant, where 90 per cent of the water is recycled and reused. It is run on solar energy. We stick to natural fibers. Indian climate is favorable to cotton. We are affordable since we have in-house production. Everything happens under one roof. The supply chain is strong, and goods are delivered directly, which saves logistics costs. Pricing plays an important role and we try to ensure the right pricing and right value goes to the customer.

What are your style trends? As for consumers’ preferences, they like slim fits over regular fits. Rather than core formals, people want semi formals, that is why we have a range called weekend formals. Customisation works only for premium brands. Value brands which are in the majority are not about customization at all.

What is your retail footprint? We are present in Maharashtra, Telangana,

Goa, Madhya Pradesh and Gujarat. Maharashtra is a strong market for us and has the largest network of stores. We have 185 stores in the states mentioned and the count will go up to 200 in the next few months.

How do you see the shirt category? Shirts are a promising category for business and volumes. A man’s wardrobe requires more shirts than trousers or T-shirts. Roughly speaking, there are always three to four shirts for every trouser. The shirt industry in India is growing at a healthy pace. You have to keep up with fashion and keep introducing new things as a brand and that is where your growth lies. We experiment a lot. But there is so much pressure on brands nowadays on the performance side. Everybody is looking for value as that is what the customer is asking for in present times. Predatory pricing is the biggest challenge. Pushing your prices down to ridiculous levels is happening. The gap between the branded and the unbranded market is closing both in terms of quality and pricing. Unbranded has been driven mainly by lower pricing. But now with the introduction of GST, the market is getting organized. The shirt industry has changed a lot over the years. People are value conscious, price sensitive, smart and have a lot of options to choose from.

BRAND LEADERS

CAMBRIDGE APPARELS

‘A business casual collection is in the works with comfortable, youth-centric designs’

Prashant Bhatia Managing Partner

Tell us about your brand and retail presence. Cambridge Apparels is present across 80 EBOs and over 100 MBOs across India. We will soon have 100 EBOs. The idea is to increase brand presence in existing territories rather than opening new stores in newer regions. With increased penetration, we are looking forward to diminishing the gap between branded and unbranded garments. We plan to work with 100 per cent cotton fabrics in shirts. This will be light, breathable, sustainable and utterly comfortable. Cotton sets the statement right for the brand and is one of the most popular choices among customers, especially corporates and business people. Cotton brings us closer to the urban as well as the rural segments. A special festival of T-shirts and denim is also on the lines to cater to casual fashion. A business casual collection is in the pipeline with comfortable but youthcentric designs for corporates/executives.

How do you see the shirt market? The slowdown in economy has led to a growth of unbranded or price-sensitive segment. The ability of smaller players to service the hinterland has also helped the

growth of this segment. Moreover, as the disposable income of the rural and semi-urban population is largely limited, the unbranded shirt category taps into the segment effectively. Brand awareness has grown steadily over the past few years. A large segment of all urban markets with organized retail trade has led to increased awareness of brands. People are willing to switch from unbranded to brands if price is not a deterrent. Moreover, the e-commerce industry is fast attracting customers from semi-urban and rural areas to branded products. This is further expected to drive brand awareness. Regional players are aware of customer needs, pricing strategies, psychology, and the appeal of a particular region. Banking on their knowledge, these players focus on a particular region and drive sales through customer preferences. With their advantages, they compete with big brands price penetration, customer preferences, quality, and easy access. While unbranded products rule in basic fashion, they also entail trendy fashion elements as per customer preferences of the region. Pricing is the biggest advantage of the unorganized segment. This is followed by

“Pricing is the biggest advantage of the unorganized segment. This is followed by faster to market fashion since the operation size is small. Regular service to retailers packaged with longer credit periods helps too.” faster to market fashion since the operation size is small. Regular service to retailers packaged with longer credit periods helps too. While big brands are constantly increasing their network of stores, and penetrating semiurban and rural markets through e-commerce platforms, local players have an upper hand because of personal touch and immediate purchases. I believe quality is the biggest attribute that helps organized players win. Quality products at smart pricing strategy will make it a level playing field. Further, a widened reach in terms of physical stores and e-commerce reach will empower brands.

How do you assess business? The market hasn’t changed much to bring about a revolutionary change for a brand’s prospects. We are not expecting much change in overall market sentiments. Hence, we would be happy with the same level of sales as in the previous summer. However, weather conditions can favor demand across certain regions and boost sales to some extent.

38 BRAND LEADERS DONEAR NXG

‘The value shirt segment is growing rapidly’ Rahul Agarwal Director

“The shirt market in India has been growing at around nine percent in the last five years. Around 60 per cent of the market is casual wear and 40 per cent formals.”

Tell us about the brand. Our new collection comprises pastel colors. We have used a lot of stretch fabrics in shirts. Another innovation is the use of fancy yarns to develop fabrics with space dyed, melange, grindle, linen look fabrics. Lastly, we have also used recycled fibers to produce fabrics for formal trousers. We are very excited about the forthcoming season and looking to a 40 per cent sales growth over previous year. Currently we are operating 220 EBOs and are present across 800 MBOs. The aim is to have

a total of 350 EBOs in the next three years and be present across 1500 MBOs.

How do you perceive the shirt market in India? The shirt market in India has been growing at around nine percent in the last five years. Around 60 per cent of the market is casual wear and 40 per cent formals. The men’s shirt category is a very competitive. There are enough players from the value segment to the luxury segment. But the value segment is the most promising and is growing rapidly. Mass market is probably 40 per cent of the total shirt market. Value may be 20 percent, mid market 20 per cent, premium 10 per cent, bridge to luxury six per cent and luxury three per cent. As office dress code is changing more and more people are adapting to semi formal and semi casual shirts. Furthermore, the start-up culture has added the shift towards semi casual and semi formal. Brands have made a conscious effort to add a new product line in order to adapt to this shift.

What are the main shirt categories? They are: semi casual, casual, formal and semi formal. A semi casual shirt is something one would wear tucked in with denims or chinos with closed footwear. A casual shirt can be worn tucked out with open faced footwear and rolled up sleeves. A formal shirt is a dressed shirt which is typically worn to work or for meetings. A semi formal shirt is a formal shirt with a little detailing on collar, cuff or placket. A semi casual shirt would typically have minimal detailing, have smaller print motives, medium checks and a sporty look. A casual shirt will have evident detailing, larger prints and broader checks, pastel to bright color tones. Formal shirts are mostly in colors like white, blue, pink, grey, black with small to medium checks and stripes. They have stiff collars and no detailing. Semi formal shirts have cutaway collars, fancy buttons and minimal details like embroidery or metal ids on the pocket.

BRAND LEADERS

CITYKART

‘We focus on millennial fashion needs in non metros’

Sudhanshu Agarwal Founder and Director

Tell us about the brand. Citykart is a leading value chain retailer.

What is your latest collection in shirts? Our latest collection focuses on millennial fashion needs in non-metros. We have hooded shirts with inners, shirts, washed denims etc, in our new collection. In semi formals and formals, we have used superior fabrics, which includes the use of 100 per cent cotton in dobby, twills and poplene. Our formal category is a blend of cotton dobby weave and plain weave. We have used 100 per cent cotton in our casuals with dobby, twill and filafill weaves. In structure we have used dobby patterns which are in trend currently followed by checks. However, the percentage of checks in casual and semi casual has grown, owning to its popularity among customers. This year we are going ahead with dye to match buttons instead of white collar buttons. We are also exploring snap buttons in casual shirts. In collars we have regular collars and Mandarin collars and in cuffs we have double cuffs both with cufflinks and in regular. In terms of designs/pattern/weave of fabrics, twills are in especially in checks and solids in dobby. Plains make up 40 to 45 per cent share in our collection, followed by checks at around 30 to 35 per cent and prints at 15 to 20 per cent. Roll up sleeves are trending in semi casuals followed by cargo styling sleeves which are mostly for the casual or college wear category.

How do you manage your retail network? We have 53 company owned stores in 47 cities across UP, Bihar, Nagaland, Assam. The average store size is 8,000 to 13,500 sq. ft. The target is to open 25 new stores every year. We are trying to penetrate further in Orissa, Bengal and the Northeast. We have a strong presence across Tier II and III cities. Tier IV is our next target.

What are the style trends? Casual and semi-formal shirts are the most

“We have 53 company owned stores in 47 cities across UP, Bihar, Nagaland, Assam. The average store size is 8,000 to 13,500 sq. ft. The target is to open 25 new stores every year.” in demand as opposed to formal shirts. Blue is popular in formals while in casuals the popular colors are blue, black, white, maroon and olive. Formal wear is not just treated as an office attire or as a social gathering outfit in a few classic colors. It is much more than that. Formal wear represents one’s personality and has evolved with numerous patterns, fits and colors. Hence, smart fits are in trend in formals and semi formals as they exude authority and confidence. In casuals slim fits are more in trend. With regard to shirts, earlier classic white and blue shirt use to suffice wardrobe needs. However, this has changed. Customers today want multiple patterns and different colors. This has been catered to in our next season’s collection.

What are your expectations from the forthcoming season? We are positive about the forthcoming season in terms of sales. The increase in purchasing power of customers, multiple occasions of dressing backed by the need to look good have fueled demand for fashion wear in the country. Hence, average sales per person have increased over time.

40 BRANDED VS UNBRANDED

Brands look at quick fixes to take on unbranded segment The unorganized player has always had the bigger share with quick time to market, out of the box details and creativity. Brands have realized they too need to respond and understand customer needs to make inroads beyond metros, find out Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

rands are looking to tap growth in Tier II and III cities after gaining a fair share of metro markets. The credit for this enormous growth goes to widespread awareness among masses, social media and companies’ innovative marketing strategies to reach out to masses. “The slowdown and deterioration of economy has led to the unbranded or pricesensitive segment to grow. The ability of these smaller players to service the hinterlands has also helped growth. Moreover, as disposable income of the rural and semi-urban population is largely limited, the unbranded shirt segment taps into these areas effectively,” explains Prashant Bhatia, Managing Partner, Cambridge Clothing Company.

• Unbranded players understand regional preferences better than the branded players • They are highly price sensitive and time sensitive • National players bring with themselves global flavor, luring younger generations • Quality wise, national players are always superior • It’s all about co-existence for the two so that ultimately consumers have the choice to select what’s best for them Brand magic spreading beyond metros Usha Periasamy, Director, Classic Polo feels India is a global market and metros are in sync

with global trends and influences. Having said that, Tier II cities like Nagpur and Pune are fast catching up with global trends for example, around 42 per cent of apparel purchases are

BRANDED VS UNBRANDED

Usha Periasamy Director, Classic Polo

done through local market with strong rooted consumer pattern. Bhatia believes brand awareness has grown steadily over the past few years. A large segment of urban markets with organized retail trade has led to increased awareness about brands. “We believe that more and more people are switching or willing to switch from the unbranded to brands if price is not a deterrent. Moreover, e-commerce industry is fast attracting customers from semi-urban and rural areas towards branded products. This is further expected to drive

brand awareness,” he adds. Cottonking’s director Koushik Marathe points out, the gap between branded and unbranded market is closing day by day in terms of quality and pricing both. “Unbranded has largely been driven by lower pricing. But now with the introduction of GST, market is getting organized. Shirts industry has changed a lot over the years. People are value conscious, price sensitive, smart and have a lot of options to choose. Customers have a plethora of choices.”

The tussle between national vs regional brands Expert opinion about consumers’ preference of regional over national players is divided. Periasamy believes finite trends are understood better by local players but in small number. Bhatia however argues, regional players are aware of customers’ needs, pricing strategies, psychology, and appeal of a particular region. Banking on their knowledge, these players focus on a particular region and drive sales through customer preferences. Seconding

Koushik Marathe Director, Cottonking

“Unbranded has largely been driven by lower pricing. But now with the introduction of GST, market is getting organized. Shirts industry has changed a lot over the years. People are value conscious, price sensitive, smart and have a lot of options to choose. Customers have a plethora of choices.”

“Without evil, good has no value. Unorganized market is a necessary evil. Without a villain, a hero cannot exist. Perspective should be to leverage the opportunity and become hero through price/ product/quality to tap the potential unorganized market.” him, Sahil & Dhwanit Gohel of Blue Buddha add “It obviously helps the regional player to understand the preferences of territory but national brands also have a lot of R&D and feedback from their channel partners across all regions, so the range is more accepted nationally. But definitely if we consider locally, regional players would have better offerings.” One major reason where local players score over national players is pricing and availability by understanding consumers’ purchase potential. “Business casuals and T-shirts (denim to certain extent, like calf fit denim) get maximum influence from local players in terms of price and availability. It’s not a

42 BRANDED VS UNBRANDED

threat in terms of quality but at the same time dilutes the potential consumer and influences their buying pattern,” argues Periasamy. For Bhatia, local players’ presence in the market subjects big brands to compete in terms of price penetration, customer preferences, quality, and easy access. “While big brands are constantly increasing their network of stores and penetrating semi-urban and rural markets through e-commerce platforms, local players have an upper hand because of personal touch and immediate purchases.”

exist. Perspective should be to leverage the opportunity and become hero through price/product/quality to tap in the potential unorganized market.” Bhatia adds, “Quality remains the biggest product attribute that helps organized players win. Quality products at a smart pricing strategy at the entry-level will break down the wall and make it a level playing field.” Further, wider reach in terms of physical stores and e-commerce reach will empower the brand to play along with competition and earn some limelight. The bottomline is: brands are expected to meet certain quality standards to attract buyers. As Gohel’s observe, “The products offered by brands are far more standardized with lots of quality parameters taken into account. Surely there is a visible difference for any customer opting for a branded product compared to nonbranded. Main challenge is the price point. Even though justified by a superior product quality but if the difference is significantly high, the customer would not prefer investing in one product if he could buy two.” In fact, many national brands are launching sub-brands and offer products at lesser prices. In this case, a customer can get a branded product and not spend very high as well. They say, currently every big brand is looking to expand their footprint in Tier II

Taking competition head on Periasamy offers some insightful aspects for branded segment to compete in the local markets. She suggests disrupting buying pattern through discount, emotional influence and promotion through local/micro influencer from the same community/segment; make the product available in their location and online; pricing and exclusive collection like special lines for online. “Without evil, good has no value. Unorganized market is a necessary evil. Without a villain, a hero cannot

Sahil & Dhwanit Gohel Blue Buddha

“The products offered by brands are far more standardized with lots of quality parameters taken into account. Surely there is a visible difference for any customer opting for a branded product compared to nonbranded. Main challenge is the price point. Even though justified by a superior product quality but if the difference is significantly high, the customer would not prefer investing in one product if he could buy two.”

and III markets as largely it is catered by the unorganized market. The key would be shopping experience and product quality. Also, effective visual communication plays a vital role to make the brand look more aspirational to the new set of customers. What works for the unbranded segment is: price, fit, quick time to market, out of the box details and creativity using very little resource are some of the biggest USPs of the unorganized shirts segment, feels Periasamy.

Prashant Bhatia

Managing Partner, Cambridge Clothing Company “Quality remains the biggest product attribute that helps organized players win. Quality products at a smart pricing strategy at the entry-level will break down the wall and make it a level playing field.” Agrees Bhatia who says, price at the end of the day is one of the biggest factors contributing to unorganized player’s dominance. This can be coupled with better styles and fits offered by them. The huge gap between the organized and unorganized segments makes customers go for a cheaper option. This is followed by faster time to market since the operation size is small. Regular service to the retailers packaged with longer credit periods helps too. Gohel’s believe fast fashion and price points are the two biggest factors in their favour. Having said that, price is not the only factor. “Often, organized brands come up with a new range only twice a season but in the unorganized markets, see new styles hitting the shelves rapidly, moreover the styles are also in trend,” they explains. Bhatia thus feels, while unbranded shirts rule in basic fashion, they also entail trendy fashion elements as per customers’ preferences of the region. Moreover, the unbranded players also provides personalized products that aid their domination. Fashion dominates unbranded market as the customer is always looking for something new and does not like to repeat same style/design, sum up Sahil and Dhwanit Gohel.

44 44

STYLE FEATURE

The brand : We from the house of Ciara have launched a new brand in cotton semi casual shirts called Nexx. In the recent times men as in the Softwear Engineers and other professionals are opting out to wear semi casual shirts to office. The target audience is between 17 to 35. These shirts

for this season are pastel colors based. You can check us out at our website for further queries.

The collection

: For the new season we have party wear like kurtas, party shirts, churidars. This is aimed at weddings, religious occasions or functions. We have

fabrics like cotton, pv, pc. Kurtas have fancy Bhagalpur cotton. We have fancy colors and pastel colors. We develop our own prints. We have floral prints, ethnic prints. Party wear has structures. Shirts have the zodiac look. Cotton formal shirts have checks and plains and wash effects. We have denim shirts â&#x2013;ş

46 CUSTOMISATION

Demand for personalised style boosts made to measure market While taliormade was the norm earlier, readymade clothes have steadily taken over consumer consciousness across India. However, now a niche made-to-measure segment is making inroads in fashion world. With new players foraying into this space, the segment is on an upward trajectory, find out Prerna Sharma and Ajay Goswami

he concept of made-to-measure is catching up fast in India though the market is still small and niche as it is at a nascent stage unlike international markets where customizing is a developed segment. “In India, it is catching up on account of increasing consciousness of people about what they wish to wear. A decade back, it was not the case as people would wear anything they like without giving any serious thought to their dressing. Every emerging economy goes through this phase where people start showing interest in branded clothing and then they move towards customized clothing and the same is happening in India currently,” explains Punit

• The ability to offer a made to measure depends on the size of a particular production unit • Small brands do not have the bandwidth to constantly produce new collections • They avoid made to measure concept and stick to bespoke tailoring • It’s a myth that bespoke clothing is only popular in premium and super premium class • Middle class are equally interested bespoke clothes • Made to measure is still a niche segment but gaining popularity • Market is growing beyond Tier I cities • Many women are also opting for made to measure to get the right fit

CUSTOMISATION Chokhani, Co-founder, 16 Stitches, a brand making name with its customization concepts. Similarly, Sandeep Gonsalves, Co-founder, SS Homme, says, “With changing lifestyles and transforming body types, brands these days are looking to cater to a wide gamut of masses with various personal needs instead of fulfilling a specific requirement. Customization/ bespoke tailoring helps achieve the perfect fit and comfort as compared to made-to-measure or ready to wear garments.” As more and more people understand the pros of bespoke and made to measure clothing, they are more likely to opt for these services instead of going to a store and picking up garments off the rack. Brands are definitely more attracted towards the concept of customization because people are demanding it, believes Samiksha Bajaj, Co-founder, Samshék. “Ease to customize the fabric, neckline, dress length, etc, makes it more versatile. It offers customers loyalty to brands. Because the garment is made for the first time, the brand also minimizes their waste and moves towards a sustainable approach.”

Made-to measure: Concept and awareness Bajaj points out, the concept of made-to measure is basically customization, where consumers can give their measurements to customize their outfit rather than buying ready to wear. “In India, people are slowly

Samiksha Bajaj

Co-founder, Samshék “It has huge consumers base not limited to plus size or middle-aged women. Nowadays, every woman is inclined towards customization, according to body type and personal style. Because it has become easy, one can simply give measurements sitting at home and get outfits customized in no time within the price range of retail clothing.”

Sandeep Gonsalves Co-founder, Sarah and Sandeep

adapting the idea of customization as it solves the biggest bug bear of finding the right size, and helps the consumer to get the perfect fit. Indeed, it works for shirts as well because in today’s world, wearing smart corporate wear is important. So many women struggle to find the kind of style, they should wear according to their body type and the size they fit in. With Samshek’s made-to-measure and digital customization option, it becomes easy to customize the size, fabric, sleeves, neckline, etc,” Bajaj observes. The modern Indian men are well-aware of made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring as creating a remarkable first impression has become important for all sorts of businesses, and this has triggered the growth of these boutiques in India. Men understand the need for a well-fitted garment, and the complexity involved in achieving perfection in these garments. “Custom-made tailoring did go out of trend for a short period in India but considering the fact that millennials are extremely fashion conscious and want to portray their best impression with their attire at all times, they are becoming increasingly aware of the segment. This is why the concept works well not only for shirts but for trousers and suits as well since nothing creates a better outlook than a welltailored outfit,” says Gonsalves.

Target audience and the growing markets Among high networth Indian (HNI) shoppers its common to opt for custom made clothing due to the high sentimental value attached and plethora of additional services offered with the construction of the garment. “We cater to a niche clientele of contemporary grooms, HNIs, NRIs, businessmen, corporates and several renowned names in the business and entertainment industry who are sartorially inclined individuals looking for a unique fashion forward ensemble. We have always catered to

“Custom-made tailoring did go out of trend for a short period in India but considering the fact that millennials are extremely fashion conscious and want to portray their best impression with their attire at all times, they are becoming increasingly aware of the segment. This is why the concept works well not only for shirts but for trousers and suits as well since nothing creates a better outlook than a welltailored outfit.” individuals to value fit over exclusivity,” informs Gonsalves. For Bajaj, target audience for customization are women 35 years and above who struggle to find the right fit in mainstream retail clothing. Most women who fall in this age group are not sure of their size. “This can happen due to a lot of reasons – pregnancy being the most prominent. It is not only limited to high-end and super premium customers, regular customers also find it convenient to customize as per their preferences. The ease to customize the fabric, style, neckline, dress length, sleeve length and of course the fit makes it exclusive for the clients.” 16 Stitches is aimed at men 18 to 40 years. And as Chokhani explains, “This is fashion business and very competitive. Customizing market is not at that stage where one is eating into each other’s market. It is something where if more players enter the segment, it would ultimately improve growth of the segment.” While Tier I cities remain the best performing markets for bespoke, owing to companies’ outreach in small towns, the scenario is fast changing. Gonsalves says, they have been

48 CUSTOMISATION conducting trunk shows in Tier-II markets to ensure the target audiences in these markets are well-informed about the benefits of bespoke tailoring. “We believe the purchasing power in Tier II cities is phenomenal but they are unaware of the services offered. That is what we hope to change.” Agrees Bajaj and says, “Every woman in each part of the globe is facing issues finding the perfect size and, customization is the only solution for that. So, it is not only restricted to Tier I cities alone, women are customizing their outfits in smaller cities too. Brands are approaching smaller cities because they don’t have much access to such services.”

What works for customisation Gonsalves says, “The strength of made to measure is its fast paced method compared to bespoke tailoring. However, the extent of personalization and fit is no comparison to bespoke. Due to this, we endorse our bespoke services to clients and recommend them to only go with made-to-measure in case of time constraints.” Adding another perspective, Bajaj, says, made-to-measure gives client the ease of customizing fabric, neckline,W dress length, sleeve length, size, etc, with no extra cost. With the help of 3D body scanning and artificial intelligence, fitting issue is resolved. Fast logistics also plays an important role, making the whole process more efficient. “We provide 48 hours delivery from the store and five business days across India and that’s what the customers are looking for these days.” Customization comes at a varied price point depending on individual requirements. As Chokhani observes, “Cusomisation is a brand building game and it takes time to

build it. You have to be genuine. It is believed customization is expensive but that is not the case. The average price of a customized shirt is Rs 2,500, which is equal to the price point at which big brands are selling. And we are trying to minimize the gap in pricing. No over the top value and extra charging are our brand values.” Indeed , made to measure shirts are a bit more affordable compared to bespoke shirts but the price points depend on quality of fabric, point out experts. Bajaj argues , made-tomeasure is not expensive, it is as similar to the retail sector if we talk about the western wear clothing. In terms of party wear ethnics, it is a bit expensive because of embroidery and fabric. But western wear makes it really efficient with digital customization. Samshek offers the same price range as retail market without extra customization cost, which makes it more feasible for the consumers. The average price is Rs 2,499.

A limited market scope As for the growth of custom clothing market, Bajaj feels, in initial years, it had a limited space but not now. Customization has slowly but steadily grown through the years. “It has huge consumers base not limited to plus size or middle-aged women. Nowadays, every woman is inclined towards customization, according to body type and personal style. Because it has become easy, one can simply give measurements sitting at home and get outfits customized in no time within the price range of retail clothing.” Chokhani feels the market is challenging in terms of acquiring customers, making sure one is on the top of the game. “We

Punit Chokhani

Co-founder, 16 Stitches “This is fashion business and very competitive. Customizing market is not at that stage where one is eating into each other’s market. It is something where if more players enter the segment, it would ultimately improve growth of the segment.”

deliver across the country and abroad. As it is a service oriented business, everything has to be easy and perfect from delivery to making sure you retail the customer. These are the challenges. The market is growing and everyone has space for growth. It also becomes important that any brand entering the space should have clarity about who they want to serve and how.” Made-to-measure shirts are experiencing consistent growth internationally and there has not been a reason to conclude that it may decline anytime soon. And as Gonsalves sums up, “Millennials are more likely to spend on experiences becaue of which the volume of purchase during festive season is higher. Additionally, we have been monitoring the international markets closely to match the standards of service provided and are noticing a number of innovations that will automatically improve the year-on-year growth prospect.”

50 BRAND LEADERS 16 STITCHES

‘The concept of made to measure is catching up fast in India’ Punit Chokhani Co-founder

“The concept of made to measure is catching up fast in India though the market is still very small as it is in its nascent stage unlike international markets where customizing is a well developed category. In India, it is catching up on account of the increasing consciousness of people about what they wear.” Tell us about the brand. One like to buy global well known brands because of the fabric, pattern or design but the right size for their body may not be available. We are trying to do away this problem. We have enough options in fabrics and designs

and when it comes to fit they need not worry because that is why we are here. Our main focus is to provide quality and durability. While quality largely depends on the fabric, durability depends on the stitching and construction of the product. A durable shirt has a high number of stitches per inch or SPI. While off-the-rack brands have anywhere between 10 to 14 stitches per inch, for a good quality shirt the SPI should be above 16. We provide a minimum 16 SPI in our shirts. All manufacturing is done in-house. Fabrics are sourced from mills across the world. The best fabrics are available with us. We do our own digital printing to differentiate ourselves as a brand. A large part of our customers belong to the middle class. The target audience is between 18 to 40 years. We are in Eastern Europe, Japan, South Africa. We have one offline studio in Mumbai. Our major sales take place online and through social media. We do customization for corporates also. We have one store and are planning to scale up the number of stores.

Are consumers open to made to measure shirts? The concept of made to measure is catching up fast in India though the market is still very small as it is in its nascent stage unlike international markets where customizing is a well developed category. In India, it is catching up on account of the increasing consciousness of people about what they wear. A decade back, people never gave serious thought to

their dressing. Every emerging economy goes through this phase. People start showing an interest in branded clothing and then move toward customized clothing. When it comes to made to measure, fit is the major factor, then comes fashion and then exclusivity.

How is business? This is a fashion business and very competitive. What matters is what you bring to the business, whether it is the product quality or service. Product differentiation matters the most. The segment is at a very nascent stage but as more players are entering, the market will improve. The customizing market is not yet at that stage where players eat into each other’s market. In fact, more the number of players, the better for the segment’s growth. Indian body type is quite different from other markets. So there is a lot of room for growth. Our target audience is the middle class which is very aspirational and the one promoting growth in the segment. In small cities and towns, are ready to experiment. If you offer them something like this, they will definitely take it.

Are big brands entering this space? If big brands enter customization, it is good, because will increases the popularity of this segment. These brands have big networks, which help industry growth. Globally, the market has matured. Customization is in full swing and many brands are successfull. It happens when the market is developed.

BRAND LEADERS

SARAH & SANDEEP

‘Customization or bespoke tailoring helps achieve the perfect fit and comfort’ Tell us about the brand. Our new wedding collection for grooms combines geometric silhouettes with intricacies of handwork. The collection integrates fabric manipulation, pintucks, asymmetrical hemlines and pleated draped shawls attached to the framework of the garment. We have experimented with pleated cummerband (waistband) with zari embroidery as a belt for sherwanis. Colors are ivory, rose gold, mint, ice blue, lavender and black. We have a flagship in Mumbai and with one luxury design MBO. We plan to focus on trunk shows in Tier I and II cities in 2020. We want to ensure that the targeted audiences in these markets are well-informed about the benefits of bespoke tailoring. We believe the purchasing power in Tier II cities is phenomenal but they are unaware of the services offered. We hope to change that.

Sandeep Gonsalves Co-founder

“Indian men see made to measure and bespoke tailoring as creating a remarkable first impression. Due to this we are seeing an expansion in the number of these boutiques. Men understand the need for a well-fitted garment, and the complexity involved in achieving perfection.

What does made to measure involve? There is a difference between made to measure and bespoke tailoring. Made to measure clothing involves garments that are machine-cut using standard size base patterns. The garments are then adjusted to customer’s measurements with alterations. A bespoke garment is handcrafted with the pattern cut from scratch as per customer’s

measurements. Multiple fittings are offered during the bespoke process to achieve the best possible fit. Additionally, the bespoke process involves a fabric selection stage where one picks the fabric and may choose to personalize the garment further as per liking.

Has the concept caught up in India? Indian men see made to measure and bespoke tailoring as creating a remarkable first impression. Due to this we are seeing an expansion in the number of these boutiques. Men understand the need for a well-fitted garment, and the complexity involved in achieving perfection. Millennials are extremely fashion conscious and want to portray their

best impression with clothes at all times. They are aware of the segment due to which it is gradually taking over the fashion industry. The concept works well not only for shirts but for trousers and suits as well since there is nothing better than a well-tailored outfit. Brands have to cater to a variety of requirements instead of fulfilling to a specific requirement. Customization or bespoke tailoring helps achieve the perfect fit and comfort as compared to made to measure and ready to wear garments. As more people understand bespoke and made to measure clothing, they are more likely to opt for these services instead of picking garments off the rack. The target audience for these services is high net worth individuals, NRIs, businessmen, corporates and those in business and entertainment. The ability to offer made to measure depends on the size of a production unit. Small brands do not have the bandwidth to constantly produce new collections, which is why they avoid made to measure and stick to bespoke tailoring. For brands that are sure of their off-the-rack potential and shirting design capability, made to measure is a given.

52 BRAND LEADERS SAMSHÉK

‘Customization has slowly but steadily grown through the years’ Explain the concept of made-to measure

Samiksha Bajaj Co-Founder

“So many women struggle to find the kind of style they should wear according to their body type and size. With Samshek’s made-to measure and digital customization option, it becomes so easy to customize the size, fabric, sleeves, neckline.”

The concept of made-to measure is customization, where consumers can give their measurements to customize their outfit rather than buying ready to wear. In India, people are slowly adopting the idea of customization, as it solves the biggest pain point of the retail industry, which is finding the right size, and it really helps the consumer get a perfect fit outfit. Made-to measure gives clients the ease of customizing the fabric, neckline, dress length, sleeve length, size etc. with no extra cost. With 3D body scanning and artificial intelligence, he fit issue is resolved. Fast logistics plays an important role in making the whole process more efficient. We provide 48 hours’ delivery from the store and five business days pan India. Customization has slowly but steadily grown through the years. It has a huge consumer base. Every woman is inclined towards customization because it has become easy, you can just give your measurements sitting at home and get your outfit customized in no time and within the same price range as retail clothing. Many people don’t know what type of shirts they should wear according to their body type and what size they fit in. That’s when customization comes in play. People are aware of the concept of customization and how it can impact their personality and the way they look especially in

the corporate sector. So they are demanding it.

Does it work for shirts? Yes, it works for shirts as well because today wearing smart corporate wear is very important. So many women struggle to find the kind of style they should wear according to their body type and size. With Samshek’s made-to measure and digital customization option, it becomes so easy to customize the size, fabric, sleeves, neckline.

Who is the target audience for these services? The target audience is typically women 35 and above who struggle to find the right fit in mainstream retail clothing. Most women who fall in this age group are not sure of their size. This can happen due to a lot of reasons, pregnancy being the most prominent. It is not limited to high end and super premium customers. Regular customers also find it convincing to customize according to their preference and why shouldn’t they when they get their customized outfit without any extra added cost? The ease of customizing the fabric, style, neckline, dress length, sleeve length and fit really makes it exclusive for clients. And customization is not restricted to Tier I cities. In smaller cities also women are customizing their outfits.

Do brands opt for customization? Brands are definitely more attracted toward the concept of customization because people are demanding it. Customizing the fabric, neckline, dress length etc. makes the customer loyal to the brand. The brand can minimize waste and moves toward a sustainable model of no excess inventory and zero textile waste. And operating in a niche market lends the brand exclusivity. You gain customer loyalty when you solve the biggest pain point via customization. It bridges the gap between the retail sector and digital customization. With changing market demands, giving the correct fit and style to consumers is a necessity for brands.

Is made-to measure expensive? Made-to measure is not expensive. In terms of party wear ethnic, it gets a bit expensive because of the embroidery and fabric. But western wear lends itself to really efficient digital customization. Samshek does not charge extra for customization. The average ticket price would be Rs 2,499. Customers can also shop online.

BRAND LEADERS

UCO DENIM

‘We deliver best in class denim with seamless service and high end fashion’ Elaborate on your innovations in denim shirts. Offering shirting fabrics for every style, occasion and season, we recently launched an exclusive range named ‘LITE.’ The range offers a wide variety of styles from light and clean to dark and rugged, from selvedge to jacquard designs. It also includes sustainable ﬁbers like linen, hemp, Tencel, elastane and recycled ﬁbers

What is your brand’s style statement for the season? We offer comfort denims made with high performance yarns that not only retain fabric softness but also endures high wear and

tear allowing freedom of movement. Our commitment to produce high quality denim fabric with low environmental impact sets us apart from competitors. We deliver best in class denims with seamless service and high end fashion.

Creativity and exclusivity are driving the denim segment today, your take. In terms of innovations, the denim industry has always been on the forefront. Growth in this segment is being driven by increasing globalisation of brands, rise in purchasing power of consumers, an ever-expanding e-commerce platform and growing emphasis

Sudhir Deorukhkar

General Manager – Technical Services on sustainability. These factors are making denims making more creative and exclusive

Has increasing emphasis on fashion made the category more complex and difficult to deliver? Yes, as manufacturers have to constantly meet the growing needs of customers.The rise of fast fashion has shortened development cycles with brands offering creative and sustainable products at competitive prices. Traditional retailers and brands are offering affordable fashion across multitude of channels. The entire supply chain is geared to meet these challenges. However, only those brands that balance creativity with value – addition are likely to survive.

How has changing demography affected the purchasing patterns of denim consumers in India? As consumers have a variety of options to choose from, his expenditure on denim is declining. However, growth in millennial population is increasing the segment’s share in the overall apparel market. Increasing options of physical and online retail is facilitating its penetration into the Tier II and III cities. The fashion industry’s increasing emphasis on sustainability is making consumers more conscious about the choice of products and brands. Only brands that offer innovative styles with speed, reach and affordability are achieving success.

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RACHIT CREATIONS 218, ATLANTIC PLAZA, GARAGE GALLI, DADAR (WEST), MUMBAI - 400 025 TEL: 4078 6200 / 4978 4011 I E-MAIL: summerline87@gmail.com

COVER STORY

Birla Century targets growth in brands and exports businesses focusing on sustainable product range. The company offers wide range of products in its fabric retail channels viz OTC & RTS business’; yarn dyed shirting & suiting fabrics along with premium range of whites & dyed fabrics and also dhotis. Birla Century targets growth in brands and exports businesses focusing on sustainable product range. Offering a wide range of products in both the apparel and home furnishing segments since 1897, Birla Century now aims to focus on its brands and exports business with sustainable products. “We offer products in both apparel and home furnishing segments. Our products in the apparel division include yarn dyed and piece dyed fabrics used in shirting and bottom wear segments. Yarn dyed shirting fabrics span 25 per cent of our entire production while piece dyed fabrics span the remaining 75 per cent. Our yarn dyed fabric ranges from premium superfine counts in double ply viz 2/120’s, 2/140’s upto 2/200’s along with regular formal and casual wear with 50’s & 60’s with premium Indian cotton along with Giza, Pima, Supima cotton” says Ashish Mehrishi, Chief Marketing Officer of the company. Birla Century offers a wide range of products in its fabric retail channels viz OTC & RTS business, yarn dyed shirting and suiting fabrics along with a premium range of whites & dyed fabrics and also dhotis. “Dhoti is our trademark business. We plan to post growth of more than 25% in our fabric retail business during the upcoming year by introducing wider product range and aggressive marketing.”

Aggressive growth plans Birla Century aims to shift more than 50 percent of its business to Exports and Brands in the next two years. “For this, the focus is on sustainable products, recycled products along with innovative functional finishes, etc. The state of art production unit located at Bharuch, Gujarat is equipped with latest technology and leading technicians where most of the latest certifications are available to stand tall in international market. Our aim is to increase our brand

• Birla Century aims to shift more than 50 percent of its business to Exports and Brands in the next two years. • The state of art production unit located at Bharuch, Gujrat is equipped with latest technology and leader technicians where most of the latest certifications are available to stand tall in international market. • We are developing right mindset and proactive approach within the teams at all the levels and hopes to be well placed in both these segments. • The company also aims to venture into printing business with a tie up with some professional manufacturer soon. • We aim to shift more than 50 percent of its business to Exports and Brands in the next two years.

COVER STORY

Ashish Mehrishi

Chief Marketing Officer, Birla Centruy

image in international market as a leader in sustainable products and in Indian retail market as a quality product supplier; by focusing growth in both these channels of business.” adds Mehrishi. As timing, quality and pricing are crucial in both businesses, Birla Century is developing the right mindset and proactive approach within the teams at all the levels and hopes to be well placed in both these segments. The company also aims to venture into the printing business with a tie up with some professional manufacturer soon. “As this was the only product missing in our apparel division, we felt the need to add it and are planning to set up this business shortly,” Mehrishi informs.

Issues plaguing the Industry The apparel market is currently affected by various factors such as weak market demand, fierce competition and trade war. Money crunch is still there in the market and there is overall pressure on maintaining the working capital. “However, we are working on these issues and hope to have minimal impact from them.” Brands are suffering due to cut-throat competition and changes in consumer demands. They are asking for maximum designs in minimum quantities. “Their ‘End of Season’ sale and kind of mandatory condition of offering discounts for “online sales” is resulting into a major shift in buying patterns.” This has also affected the vendors / garment manufacturers for their payment cycles and fulfilling capacities. Last year, 2-3 cotton

textile mills in India went into financial crisis and on the other hand a few mills are expanding their capacities and offering sharp prices. Overall business is tough and there is pressure on profit margins. However, we are not affected much, as we handle diverse product mix in diverse market segments like retail, trade, brands and exports business. In future, Birla Century has plans to expand fabric retail business (OTC and RTS) to Tier II, III and IV cities and other remote areas focusing on brand recall and aggressive marketing to reach out to our consumers to maintain / improve legacy of Century products.”

“We aim to shift more than 50 percent of its business to Exports and Brands in the next two years. “For this, the focus is on sustainable products, recycled products along with innovative functional finishes, etc.” “Our aim is to increase our brand image in international market as a leader in sustainable ‘products supplier’ and in Indian retail market as a quality product supplier by focusing growth in both these channels of business next year.”

58 BRAND LEADERS (FABRIC) MAFATLAL

‘We offer a wide range of high quality fabrics’ Sonal Mehrotra

Vice President (Marketing) “Each product at Mafatlal is an amalgamation of passion and research. Our mills in Gujarat are equipped with the best technology. The Nadiad unit caters to the standards of international customers such as Marks & Spencer, Next, DGQA, GDS&D and Ordnance.”

Tell us about the brand. We offer a wide range of high quality fabrics from shirtings, suitings, denims, corduroys, school, corporate and institutional uniforms, bed and bath linen and readymades. We are into cottons, polyester cottons, polyester viscose, viscose and linen. Around 50 per cent of our fabrics are for casual shirts and 50 per cent for formal/office wear. The ratio is cotton 30 perc ent, poly cotton 30 per cent, poly viscose/linen five percent and viscose 35 per cent. Our share of sales in retail stores and readymade garment manufacturers are evenly split. Each product at Mafatlal is an amalgamation of passion and research. Our mills in Gujarat are equipped with the best technology. The Nadiad unit caters to the standards of international customers such as Marks & Spencer, Next, DGQA, GDS&D and Ordnance. While at Navsari, the state of the art composite denim manufacturing unit comprises yarn manufacturing, dyeing, weaving and finishing. We produce 3.6 million meters of fabric a month in our Nadiad unit and this will increase to 4.4 million meters a month in a year. We have a chain of retail stores across India known as Mafatlal family shops and Mafatlal exclusive shops. Mafatlal Industries plans to foray into uncharted areas in textiles, thus bringing innovative products for our customers. Among the shirt brands we supply to in the domestic markets are: Mufti, Indian Terrain,

VH, Blackberry, Benetton, Pantaloon, Max Lifestyle, Reliance Trends, Future Lifestyle, And, John Players, Peter England, Stori and Zodiac.

Which kind of fabrics and blends are selling in shirts? Cotton, viscose and linen sales are on the rise in India.

What are the different innovations in shirt fabrics? New blends like cotton modal and Tencel linen are entering the market.

Has cotton price rise affected business? Cotton prices have risen only in the last few weeks. But the end customer does not want to accept any price increase. Demand has been stable overall, with some market segments performing better than others, at the same time supply has also increased so prices are under pressure.

Any change in buying behavior of shirt manufacturers? There is an increase in width in a line with a lower quantity per design. Moreover brands want to order closer to the season squeezing production lead time and a demand for reduction in prices to offer better discounts to end customers.

BRAND LEADERS (FABRIC)

LINEN FIESTA

‘We were one of the first in India to weave linen fabrics’

Atul Agarwal

Director “We offer fabrics woven using 150 lea, the finest linen yarn being spun in the world. We are pioneers in weaving 100 percent linen jacquards on high speed looms. We have yarn dyeing, space dyeing and fabric printing facilities in-house.”

Tell us about the brand. Linen Fiesta has become synonymous with the finest quality linen fabrics. We make only linen and are one of the first manufacturers in India to weave linen fabrics. We have used a lot of orange and blue and plan to use jacquards and prints. We are optimistic that summer will be good. Only the highest quality flax fibers grown in France and Belgium are used for fabrics. All fibers used in our fabrics can be traced back to Western Europe. Our linen fabrics are produced at our plants. We offer fabrics woven using 150 lea, the finest linen yarn being spun in the world. We are pioneers in weaving 100 percent linen jacquards on high speed looms. We have yarn dyeing, space dyeing and fabric printing facilities in-house. Our in-house design studio creates innovative and fashion forward designs for both shirting and jacketing fabrics. We introduce 3000 new designs every year. The design team stays updated with latest trends in the market by hosting conferences, making field trips and actively participating in various design-related organizations. They also interact directly with production teams and personally visit factories regularly to understand our production capabilities and figure out ways to expand them. Linen Fiesta sells through its pan-India dealer network at all leading fabric stores in the country. Our presence is spread across the big cities as well as the smaller towns in all major states. We have a footprint of over 1000 retail outlets. We make two lakh meters a month. We go 65 percent to retail stores and 35 percent to

readymade garment manufacturers.

What’s special about linen? It’s hard to believe now, but less than three decades ago, linen was completely unknown in India. When we came across the fabric in Europe, we instantly saw its potential to revolutionize the Indian market. We realized its texture, breathability, sophisticated appearance, anti-fungal properties and high moisture absorbing capacity would strongly appeal to the discerning Indian customer. We set about matching the quality of European weavers, creating awareness among consumers and developing a whole new market for this fabric. We believed that in a tropical country filled with consumers that have an appreciation for fine textiles, we could popularize this fabric.

What are your new styles? A large segment of Indian consumers prefer custom fit and designed clothes made by local tailors with their inputs on patterns, prints, textures and construction.

Which kind of fabrics and blends are selling in shirts? Linen and Giza and Supima cotton are selling. Among the different innovations in shirt fabrics are double cloth, prints and jacquards in linen.

Any change in buying behavior of shirt manufacturers? Buyers want quicker turnaround and lesser MOQs. The trend is more like fast fashion in Europe.

60 TRENDS AND STYLE It’s all about stylish shirts in various hues, smart fit and a casual look Changing workplace ethos means formal shirts are now giving way to a more semi-formal and casual look. Demand for informal shirts is on the rise riding on innovative prints, colours, fits and collars. Women’s shirt category too is emerging as a category now, find out Shubhangi Bidwe and Ajay Goswami • The trend of stripped shirts is fast catching up in India. • There are multiple varieties of cuffs available like square cuffs with single and double buttons, square cut cuffs and rounded French cuffs. • Smart fits are preferred in formal and semi formal shirts as they exude authority and confidence • Blue is the most popular color in formal shirts

ith a preference for a semi-formal, casual look among contemporary men and increasing purchasing power of millennial shoppers, demand for stylish shirts has been on the rise in India. To meet this demand shirtmakers across brands and segments are innovating with their styles, colours, designs cuts, collars. For instance, Pune-based brand Cottonking recently launched a new range of carbon peach finish and stain-resistant shirts. “We have also launched another range, ‘Aerosoft’ that offers a wide variety of designs and prints,” notes Kaushik Marathe, Director of the brand.

TRENDS AND STYLE in shirts segment now. As Citykart Retail launched hooded shirts with inners in its new collection as the brand believes casual and semi-formal shirts to be most in demand as against formal shirts.

Check, stripes have more takers now

Salman Noorani

Managing Director, Zodiac “Three distinct shirts trends are emerging. These are: athleisure, the black tie look and stripes or floral prints. We are the first men’s wear brand to reintroduce stripes in our S/S2019 collection” “Relaxed dress code should drive semiformal and semi-casual shirts off take. We are changing our mix in favour of casual and semi casual,” says Vinit Doshi, Head, Product, Sourcing & Retail Planning, Celio. What’s more, the imprint of athleisure is now visible

“Three distinct shirts trends are emerging,” says Salman Noorani, Managing Director, Zodiac. These are: athleisure, the black tie look and stripes or floral prints. Styling details are becoming minimal believes Abhishek Yadav, Design Head of Spykar further revealing that his brand’s Spring/Summer range offers a wide mix of checks, stripes, prints and various shades of solid colors. Yadav goes on to state, shirt category is a tricky one, as a little change in design takes the product to a different line altogether. Spykar is a casual wear brand with three distinct lines: Purist, YnR &amp; Actif. Purist is a classic product line, YnR is the trending fashion of the time and Actif is a line of hi-fashion products. Purist line falls into semiformal, while the YnR and Actif are casual lines. “The percentage of checks in casual and semi casual shirts is growing owing to its growing popularity,” explains Sudhanshu Agarwal, Founder & Director of Citykart. The brand has also used dobby pattern in shirts. Another trend fast catching up is of stripped shirts. Noorani says stripes are the mainstay of Zodiac. “We are the first men’s wear brand to reintroduce stripes in our S/S2019 collection,” he adds. The brand recorded excellent sales of stripped shirts in its Zodiac Barboni and Vivace collections.

Collars and cuffs see many new styles In collars, brands are offering a huge variety such as kent, button down, mandarin and cutway. “Windsor or cutaway is our most popular collar style,” informs Noorani. On the other hand, Spykar offers collar styles such as classic, mandarin, button down, spread, etc. “We also offer stand up and flat collar stands,” says Yadav. He points out, classic and button down are the most popular collar styles among consumers. “Trend-conscious consumers also try variations of mandarin and spread collars,” he says. And just like collars, there are multiple varieties of cuffs available in the market. These include: square cuffs with single and double buttons, square cut cuffs and rounded French cuffs. Designers vary cuff heights to compliment the shirt. “Discerning customers ask for double cuffs. However, our single cuffs are more versatile in use,” Noorani says. Citykart Retail too offers double cuffs both in regular and with cufflinks.

Demand for linen fabrics and smart fits Though the performance of a fabric does not necessarily predict the performance of a shirt, the right type of fabric helps shirts

meet aesthetic and functional performance expectations of customers. Manufacturers are offering high quality fabrics in diverse designs and blends as per latest trends. Available in a variety of weaves like plain, twill, satin and dobbies, these fabrics are smooth in texture, absorbent, and can be laundered easily. They are also available in tecno-natural ranges that cover all cotton blends with manmade fibers. Premium fabrics like 2-ply Giza cotton and pure flax/linen are gaining popularity. “Made of flax plant fibers, linen fabrics dry faster than cotton. Though they are more expensive than cotton, they are exceptionally cool and fresh in hot and humid weather,” he adds. Shirts in French and Italian linen are also the hallmark of Zodiac. The brand started a linen shirt program in 2004 and till today its linen range remains unmatched. Shirts have also evolved with numerous patterns fits and colors. Smart fits are in trend in formal and semi formal shirts as they exude authority and confidence. “In casual shirts, slim fits are more in trend,” states Agarwal adding that blue is the most popular color in formal shirts while causal shirts are available in colors like blue, black, white, maroon and olive. “There is resurgence in olive and burgundy this winter, though black and white remain on top,” adds Noorani.

Exploring growth potential Overall, shirts are a very promising category both for business and volumes. As men roughly require four shirts over two trousers, the segment offers enough potential for growth. There is a lot of business to be explored in smaller towns. “And this can be done without offering discounts or the COD facility,” opines Noorani. Zodiac aims to chart its future growth on the strength of its design and quality besides implementing more systems to converse the environment. On the other hand, Citykart Retail aims to explore using snap buttons in its causal shirts.

Women’s shirt market catches up A relatively new and smaller category, the women’s shirt category contributes only 2 per cent to the total women’s apparel market. Currently valued at Rs 2,527 crore, the segment is expected to grow at a CAGR of 11 per cent with more women joining the workforce,

Vinit Doshi

Head, Product, Sourcing & Retail Planning, Celio “Relaxed dress code should drive semi-formal and semi-casual shirts off take. We are changing our mix in favour of casual and semi casual.”

62 TRENDS AND STYLE

Abhishek Yadav

Kaushik Marathe

Design Head, Spykar Lifestyles

Director, Cottonking

“Checks in different weaves and composition are trending. All over prints are doing well for Spykar as a brand. Dobbies and structures are in demand and are preferred when the colour is solid.”

“Consumers prefer slim fit over regular fit. Rather than core formals, people want semiformals and that is why we have a range called weekend formals.”

leading to a huge demand for formal shirts and western wear among women. Change in women’s tastes and preference is creating demand for both formal and casual shirts in metros and Tier-I cities which is expected to trickle down to the non-metros as well.

Sudhanshu Agarwal

Founder & Director of Citykart “The percentage of checks in casual and semi casual shirts is growing owing to its popularity among customers.”

Future growth in this segment is likely to be driven by the young aspiring youth working in corporate sector. Encouraged by innovative designs, fits and color combinations in semiformal shirts, fashion conscious consumers will opt for semi formal and casual shirts as an alternative to formal shirts. The women’s shirt market will also witness a huge surge in demand due to the increasing participation of women in workforce. The market offers a huge scope provided brands and retailers manage to cater to the ever changing fashion requirements of both formal and semi-formal shirt customers.

SHIRT TRENDS

enswear in no longer drab, dull and predictable. Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s millennials and smart, suave gents are happy to experiment with their looks and try out new trends. We bring you a collection of sizzling styles in shirts; to help you dress to the hilt, whether for a casual outing or a zany party with friends! Wear your Swag !

SHIRT TRENDS