Inside Fashion Vol.18 No.8 by InsideFashion

VOL 18 NO. 8

Plus Size Fashion a growing market in India VERO MODA BLACKBERRYS JOHN PLAYERS OXEMBERG RUFF DUKE COVER-Vol-8.indd 3

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1 The Textile Association (India) PRESENTS

CEO Investment and Partnership Summit February 19th & 20th, 2019: Hyderabad International Convention Centre, Hyderabad

Reviving Conﬁdence in Textiles

The largest ever convergence of Textile Corporate Thinktank

THEME Rethink Traditional Business Methods Rejuvenate with New Business Models Reviving Conﬁdence in Textiles Textile CEO Conclave is a thinktank and a networking platform for Mill owners, Managing Directors, Directors, CEOs, CXOs, Investors, Entrepreneurs and Stakeholders in entire textile supply chain who want to network with each other and build lifelong relationships.

The Conclave will focus broadly on

CO-ORGANISED BY

• • • •

Textile Industry: The Big Picture: Global, Asia and India Perspective Strategies to Revive Conﬁdence in Textiles Emerging Opportunities in Global and Domestic markets ROI: Bottomline at centrestage - Proﬁtability, a threadbare analysis based on Topline, Management, Technology, Land and infrastructure, Electricity, Operational costs and productivity

• Investment Opportunities: Competitive Government Policies, Textile & Apparel Parks/Clusters, assured beneﬁts

CONTACT For SPONSORSHIP, ADVERTISING, DELEGATE REGISTRATION Ms. Manmeet +91-9824353958, E-mail: theceoconclave@gmail.com Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 1

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YO U TH

dfuapsana Friday, November 23, 2018 3:53:13 PM

C LUB

FaShIOn ScOPE

Randeep Hooda walked for designer Bharat Reshma. Chitrangda Singh set the ramp ablaze for eminent designer Joy Mitra. Sonal Chauhan closed the show for Narendra Kumar. Top models including Laksmi Rana, Sonalika Sahay, Candice Pinto, Deepti Gujral graced the runway with their stunning walk. Sponsors of the event included: Lakme Salon, Jabong, Orient Fans, Wild Vitamin Water, London Dairy, Brookside etc. Delhi Times has consistently given an impetus to the lifestyle scene in the city. Delhi Times Fashion Week has grown as a platform for designers to showcase their creations. Next year it plans a even more unique and beautiful collection by eminent designers, taking the fashion quotient a notch higher.

Delhi Times Fashion Week ends with high dose of glamour and glitz

he second edition of the Delhi Times Fashion Week, held from September 22 to 24, culminated on a highly glamorous note. The event saw the presence of the crème de la crème of the lifestyle and fashion world. The fashion extravaganza saw some of the country’s biggest designers. Over 2000 people graced the event.

Contents VOL.18 NO. 8

08 FASHION & LIFESTYLE 10 BRAND WATCH 16 BRAND RETAIL 24 IF INSIGHT 28 COVER STORY 32 IF EXECLUSIVE 48 PREVIEW 52 REVIEW 60 AWARDS 66 BUSINES NEWS 68 FASHION POST

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FaShIOn & LIFEStYLE

Korean brand Beccos steps into India

outh Korean designer brand Beccos, which is planning to set up around 50 stores in India by mid-2019, expects to generate revenue of Rs 200-250 crore from the country by FY201-20. Besides, the company will also invest around Rs 100 crore. It will tap the potential of online sales and may consider having its e-commerce channels after a year.

Titan Eye Plus to open more stores across the country this ﬁscal

Titan Eye Plus, Titan’s optical retail brand plans is looking to add 50 stores across the country this financial year. The 50 stores would be in new towns. An additional 50 stores will be refurbished. The company has a total of 514 Titan Eye Plus stores in the country, of which 43 are in Mumbai. Titan Eye Plus has a customer footfall of about 2.4 million a year. The plan is to increase the footfall by about five times to 10 million in the next four and a half years.

Beccos recently opened its first store in New Delhi and plans to open two more stores by next week. These stores will be set on company-owned-company-operated and franchise patterns. The merchandise line-up of the company will consist of dailyneed household items, mobile accessories, cosmetics, fashion accessories, luggage, home decor, stationary and baby products. Titan, which has five lens labs, intends to open two more, one in Patna and Chennai. It now has lens lab in Bangalore, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai and New Delhi. This will help the brand reduce turnaround time significantly, which is very important for this business. The company had invested in frame manufacturing last year, and now has the capacity to produce a million a year. Titan Eye Plus stores have more than 1,000 products including frames, sunglasses and global brands. Eye wear and eye care are yet to reach many parts of the country. The market is growing and there is a lot of potential for growth.

Liberty Shoes diversiﬁes product range Liberty Shoes has launched a range of perfumes. The Eau de Parfum has 12 fragrances for men and women. Liberty hopes to sell two lakh bottles by the end of next year. Liberty Shoes currently has a total of 400 ﬂagship stores across India and is present in

over 5,000 multi-brand outlets and also retails from its own e-commerce store. As a part of its expansion plan Liberty is looking to tap the potential in Tier 11 and III cities and will be opening stores in these areas in the coming months. The FOCO model launched last year has been showing impressive results besides easing out the working capital cycle of the company. The focus is on domestic sales to improve and capture the growing market in the coming years. The overall footwear industry is very optimistic right now with growing awareness about the latest trends and consciousness among consumers. Consumers’ increased exposure to plastic money and imposition of GST is going to provide more organised retailing and trade transparency in the long term.

Bata to open 150 stores across India

Footwear brand Bata is planning a massive expansion in the current financial year. The brand will open around 150 stores across the country. It had earmarked Rs 100 crore ($14.6 million) for setting up new stores, rebranding and modernising store during the fiscal year. The brand has signed Bollywood actor Sushant Singh Rajput as its brand ambassador for its new casual range as it looks to tap the young consumers for future growth. Rajput’s association with the brand is expected to enhance the visibility of the brand pan-India and help it acquire young consumers in the country. Bata India is the largest footwear retailer in India and retails in over 1,290 EBOs, on bata.in and in thousands of MBOs pan-India.

DFU PUBLICATIONS Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO - Sanjay Chawla

Advisor

Director - Salil Chawla

Customer Relations - Sanchita Banerjee Team Bipasha Bhattacharya

Mangaging Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva VP-Corporate Communications - Shraboni Mukherjee Assistant General Manager - Saqib Meer Editorial

- Narayan Subramaniam Shubhangi Bidwe

Editorial Asst. - Ranjit Kaur Correspondent - Ajay Kumar Goswami Prerna Sharma Sales Team

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- Upasana Chhabra

- T. K. Sengupta

Production & Admn. - Dinesh Poojary Sumit Masand Graphic Designer

- Sanjeev D. Sonavane

MUMBAI OFFICE: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181, 2877 2282, 3001 4700 e-mail: dfuif@yahoo.co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com DEHLI OFFICE: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg: New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639 e-mail: salildfu@gmail.com, salil@dfupublications.com All reproductions rights reserved. Owned & published by: Sanjay Chawla and printed by him at DFU printing division. Published and Edited by Sanjay Chawla at: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai 400 062.

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10 Brand Watch Gap launches men athleisure brand ‘Hill City’

Jack & Jones celebrates 10 years of edgy fashion in India

ack & Jones has completed 10 years in India. It has 64 stores and 404 shop in shops across the country. The brand is known for its on-point trends with a strong offering in the jeans category. Over the past few years, Jack & Jones through its marketing activities has built a perception of being a disruptive, rebellious and edgy brand. The brand introduces new styles every week. Fashion at Jack & Jones can be distinguished from other western wear fashion brands because of the attention to detail, versatile fabrics, perfect cuts, eloquent prints that are tailored to cater to the tastes, physicality and preferences of Indian consumers. Celebrating ten years in India, the brand is defined and represented by four unique sub brands: Jack & Jones Vintage Clothing, Premium by Jack & Jones, Originals by Jack & Jones and Core by Jack & Jones. All of them are designed by independent design teams, each one of them with their own ideas, concepts and designs. Each offers a full range of clothes, accessories, footwear and innerwear for every man and every occasion. The portfolio is further diversified with premium menswear fashion by Selected

Jabong to tap premium luxury segment With its latest offerings in the luxury segment, online fashion retailer Jabong plans to tap the premium section of the market. This will help it to differentiate from its parent firm Myntra, which currently holds a dominant share of India’s online fashion market. The retailer also launched 25 new global fashion brands on its platform during its upcoming ‘Jabong What’s In Festival’ from September 22-26, 2018. The brands launched include GAP, Superdry Sport, Calvin Klein White label, Onistuka Tiger, Armani Jeans, Satya Paul, Nush, Coach, Tumi, Ted Baker and many more. Jabong will also launch its new collection for Autumn Winter 2018 besides adding 50,000 new styles for all global brands.

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Homme, plus size offerings by Junarose and effortlessly casual styles for men by Only & Sons.

Shoppers Stop launches new fashion forward campaign

Gap is launching Hill City, a men’s athleisure brand. This will offer a range of active wear apparel, including sweatshirts, raincoats, shirts and pants. Hill City incorporates recycled fibers into its designs. It is a premium men’s product that combines highly technical fabrications, performance and style. The new label is the menswear version of Gap’s women’s active wear brand Athleta, one of the company’s highest-performing brands. One prominent reason for the rise of athleisure is the trend of combining comfortable sport fabrics with stylish silhouettes, allowing the wearer to transition from outdoor to indoor activities without feeling improperly dressed. Hill City hopes to fill a similar niche in the menswear market. In 2017, active wear apparel sales were valued at $48 billion, making up nearly 22 per cent of total apparel industry sales. With women’s athleisure driving the active wear market, companies like Gap are looking for ways to tap into the equivalent male audience. Hill City aims at filling a man’s entire closet with versatile, high performance pieces that can take him from a hike to a dinner out. Gap plans to open 270 additional stores under Athleta and Old Navy while closing 200 Gap and Banana Republic locations in the coming years.

Vingo Clothing launches new thermal wear range

Shoppers Stop has launched a fashion forward campaign, ‘Wardrobe Refresh’ that unveiled its new collection across varied categories. The collection appeals to ‘First Citizen’ customers and inspires the youth with latest trends and offers from over 150 brands, under one roof. The campaign aimed to unleash the joy of shopping from the fresh fashion launched at Shoppers Stop ahead of the festive season. The film is aspirational and tempts consumers to refresh and revamp their closet. The TVC was conceptualised by Contractthe advertising agency of Shoppers Stop. It was directed by Shai. Vineet Mahajan, Head of Art, Contract. The ‘Wardrobe Refresh’ campaign started from September 21 across online and pan-India Shoppers Stop stores except Kolkata, Durgapur, Siliguri and Ranchi. The campaign was promoted across various platforms traditional and digital mediums.

Vingo Clothing, a Delhi-based garment company is introducing thermal wear under the name ‘Vingo. The brand recently introduced Vingo quilted thermal -- a three layer quilted fabric with Sueding Technology which gives warmth and silicon softness. Unlike normal thermal brands, it uses soft cotton-rich fabric and employs extra-brushing quilted technique to give a feather-like softness to the user. This makes the thermal skin-friendly, light-weight stretchable and a perfect agent to give its user a slim-look. It is available in three colors: Anthra, Grey, abd off-white for men, women and kids. Established in 2016, Vingo Clothing provides international quality to consumers at Indian prices. The company, sensing the changes the market is undergoing and anticipating future selling trends, has strategically decided to foray into large format stores and multi branded outlets. This will enable the customer to see and choose from the large range of the brand’s products.

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12 Brand Watch Benetton to return back to basics

enetton’s revenues fell 15.4 per cent in 2016. The group is facing challenges, both from new competitors like Zara, H&M and Uniqlo, and the explosion of e-commerce. The plan is to go back to Benetton’s original premise of midpriced clothes for the long term. Benetton, founded in 1965, sees an opportunity to sell cheerful, brightly colored clothes. Benetton is one of Europe’s most controversial fashion brands. Its shock advertising campaigns — whose memorable images included a priest and a nun kissing, and a baby still attached to

Monte Carlo awarded Superbrand title

Monte Carlo has been awarded the Consumer Superbrand title for the seventh year in a row. Superbrands has been honoring brands with supreme status for 15 years. This honor is bestowed on brands after a twostage scoring process. The first stage involves scoring by consumers based on their holistic participation of the brands. The next stage is scrutiny and scoring by the Superbrands Council which comprises heads of prominent organizations who themselves know what it takes to build Superbrands. On the basis of consumer scoring, scrutiny by the council and scoring a winner is decided. Participation is strictly based on invitation. Only brands that receive a high, predetermined

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the umbilical cord — made it a household name. The brand will see a reissue of its most iconic lines, harking back to the days when the family-owned company was selling its brightly colored jumpers in more than 100 countries. The brand is reissuing a unisex collection of T-shirts, logoembroidered baseball caps and branded nylon bumbags. The family-owned company has supported sports centers, building restoration and travelling art exhibitions that reflect the brand’s core values of social justice and sustainability.

average score are retained as being selected and are invited to the Superbrands program. Monte Carlo is a powerful name in the fashion garment industry. Monte Carlo entered the organized ready-to-wear market in India at a time when the unorganized segment was thriving. Thirty years after launch, Monte Carlo epitomizes superior quality and international styling at affordable prices. Its popularity originates from the inherent warmth and comfort emitted by its clothing. Its personality and style are underpinned by the brand’s core values. Monte Carlo showcases a distinct image of its brand persona as young, cosmopolitan, cheerful, dynamic, loving and passionate.

retail space which comprises over 500 stores that include over 50 flagship stores and 12 international stores. Mohey is available at over 50 multi-brand outlets across India. Ravi Modi launched Manyawar in 1999 as a men’s ethnic clothing brand under the parent company Vedant Fashions. Manyawar has come to specialise in wedding wear and occasion wear and is one of India’s leading brands in the category. Mohey was launched by Vedant Fashions in 2016 as a women’s traditional occasion wear label that retails garments including lehengas, saris, and kurtas.

Vedant Fashions targets younger consumers for Manyavar, Mohey

Vedant Fashions is targeting the younger audience for its ethnic wear brands: Manyavar and Mohey. Manyavar’s current ‘Parivar Ravivar’ campaign also works to this end. The brands are also standardising the fabrics used across all products. They are designing new chemical formulations for fabrics to increase uniformity and the overall feel of textiles. This follows standardisation and organisation of India’s ethnic wear market where branded apparel occupies a greater share of the market. Manyavar currently has 650,000 sq-ft of

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14 Brand Watch Biba to expand market share in ethnic wear segment

thnic wear brand Biba aims to increase its market share in India from 1 per cent to between 4-8 per cent with a top-line of over Rs 3,000 crore ($451 million). The brand also plans to open around 200 more stores in the next three years. Despite being one of India’s best known ethnic wear brands, Biba has only 1 per cent of the total market share. A major reason for this is that the market is mainly made up of small businesses and is largely

Wowmom expands product basket, aims at Rs 40 cr revenue this fiscal

Wowmom has expanded its product portfolio and is eyeing sales worth Rs 40 crores during the current fiscal year. This is a baby fashion brand from Toonz Retail. Wowmom is aimed at infants up to three years. It offers T-shirts, shirts, rompers, knit sets, woven and embroidery, skirts, party wear frocks, dresses, and much more. Along with these it will now offer a baby bath range, a bedding range, travel products, mother utility products and accessories. Wowmom has been growing at 60 per cent year on year. It is seeing tremendous growth

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unorganised. However, Biba believes that this is changing and the fashion is evolving. The brand currently has a 1per cent market share and a top-line of Rs 500 crore, so this would be a large expansion for the business. Biba, which means “pretty girl” in Punjabi, was launched by Meena Bindra in 1982. The brand has since grown from a one-woman home-run business to an international brand. It has 260 stores in 100 cities in India and is also present in Nepal.

in Tier II and III markets and has thus kept its core products pricing affordable without compromising on quality. Established in 2012 and the brand has more than 300 SKU’s in its portfolio. The newly launched Wowmom products will be available across Toonz Retail stores and e-commerce platforms like Amazon, Flipkart, and Firstcry in India. Toonz Retail deals with everything related to children and offers about 2000 products for children. Toonz Retail started off with its first store in 2010 and today has more than 100 stores. Toonz Retail targets the premium segment and has 35 to 40 brands under its banner. Now efforts are on to bring some good value for money brands in its basket.

Arvind launches Iconic Silk collection focusing on elegance, comfort dressing

The DTR division of Arvind has launched a menswear collection, Iconic Silk for Festive 2018. Adopting a modernised approach to stitched ethnic suits, the collection focuses on elegance and comfort dressing. It uses a versatile range of fabrics that can be transformed to create pieces for men in the form of stylish ceremonial outfits. Its assortment of prints and textures can be customised to design western attires too. The premium luxury collection will be retailed via all leading Arvind authorised fabric retailers and priced in the range of Rs 4,000 to Rs 10,000 per meter.

With evolving customer awareness, Arvind strives for constant innovation with best fabrics and apparels. Defining the persona of the youth today, the collection incorporates all the present trends and can be constructed to form contemporary designs that retain the original feel of authentic fabrics.

V-Mart tapping growth of value fashion

V-Mart Retail is one of the fastest growing departmental store chain in India. Now it’s on expansion in non-metros and Tier-II and -III towns. V-Mart follows an interesting trend of opening new store without going beyond 100 kilometers of the previous one, says Lalit Agarwal, CMD, V-Mart Retail, on the growth of retail in non-metros. It has 173 stores across 14 states in India. The company is doing exceedingly good business. Agarwal further says the company has maximum presence in North, moving towards the East. At present, 75p per cent stores are located in UP, Bihar, Uttarakhand and Jharkhand. Among the 173 stores, the brand has opened about 31 stores in the last fiscal and is looking for the same number by the end of current fiscal. The company has stopped FMCG in 2012 because of low margin and has found greater confidence in value fashion. At present 37 stores offers retail FMCG.

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16 Brand Retail Adidas to double India store count by 2019-end

didas, the Germany-based sportswear brand plans to boost its retail presence by doubling company-owned stores in 40 cities across India by 2019-end. The activewear brand will open 50-60 stores in major metros, Tier I & II cities besides revamping the existing ones. Currently, 450 stores are operated by Amazon. The sportswear retailer has reduced its franchise partners to 50 in order to concentrate on profitable growth. Furthermore, it plans to tap majority of customers in these 40 cities by adding bigger stores to enhance

Gini & Jony renovates store design concept

Gini & Jony have renovated their store design concept by adopting an open façade store approach while adding thematic props, hanging lighting fixtures and internationally-designed mannequins placed in unusual places. The store is internationally designed in an open-façade format to ensure clear visibility to create excitement in kids to walk in. The design also includes internationally-designed mannequins with static ones on the window while mannequins have also been placed on the ceiling in flying position. The boys’ and girls’ walls have been separated from each other for the ease in shopping. Thematic props like guitar, skateboard etc have been added to trigger the playful moods of the kids. Hanging lights are used to light up the store while also creating a visual perspective of the lights. With a network of 172 EBOs, 57 FSOs, 419 LFS and 700+ MBOs, the brand has plans to open 70+ EBOs, 10+ FSOs, 30+ LFSs in next 2 years. The brand will soon launch their accessories collection. The latest design concept has been commissioned in consultation with Pune-based design agency Studio Mars. The new concept, rolled out in a few stores, will soon be taken to all existing and upcoming stores.

IKEA to open 25 stores in India by 2025

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and online domestic and international brands. Consumers are being spoilt for choice.

Patanjali scouting for partners to open garment outlets

its engagement with the shoppers. Adidas launched its first-ever stadium-based store in New Delhi earlier this year. The brand plans to launch five more stadium format outlets across India.

Swedish furniture and home accessories company IKEA plans to open 25 stores across cities like Ahmedabad, Surat, Pune, Chennai and Kolkata by 2025. The stores will adopt an omnichannel approach with both online and offline sales. This will include large stores and city centre stores. The company will invest Rs 3,000 crore in the next three years to open three fulfilment centers (packing warehouses) in Mumbai, Bengaluru and Delhi. It will open its second store in Mumbai later this year and the third one in Delhi.

Peppermint plans retail expansion, targets 50 EBOs in next three years

Patanjali Ayurved will launch its apparel and accessories products later this year through franchisee outlets. Its scouting for prospective franchisees with previous experience in garment and textile business and own property in high street, malls or commercial complexes. The company will be launching products in 3,000 categories, including men’s wear, women’s wear, sportswear, yoga wear and children’s wear including denims. In addition, it is also looking at entering the footwear segment and other fashion accessories. It is also planning to launch a range of home textile products such as bed sheets. Besides exclusive outlets, the company is likely to retail its apparel and accessories at MBOs and neighborhood stores. The company has been on a product launching spree this month and has entered several new categories. Patanjali wants to raise long-term project finance to fund its upcoming food parks. The company currently has 50 manufacturing units.

Myntra to sell own private labels on Walmart

Pune-based Peppermint plans to have a 50 EBOs in the next three years and 500 shop in shops. The brand which targets young girls focuses on southern and western India. The products covers dresses, party wear frocks, shorts and more. The plan is to enter segments like footwear and accessories. As for EBO expansion, the immediate target is to cover the southern and western part of the country, especially metros and Tier I cities. Peppermint, was founded in 2007 and is enjoying a year on year growth of 15 to 20 per cent. The market for children’s apparels in India exceeds Rs 13,000 crores, of which around Rs 3,000 crores is constituted by brands. The market is growing at 10 per cent per annum. From a handful of brands to a sudden explosion of home grown and international brands, the children’s wear market in India has witnessed an exponential growth. The latest in fashion is being offered by hundreds of offline

Flipkart’s fashion arm Myntra is planning to sell its private label products in Walmart stores overseas. The e-commerce marketplace will take its largest brands such as Roadster, HRX endorsed by Hrithik Roshan and Deepika Padukone’s All About You. Currently Myntra has 14 private brands of varying sizes from best-selling to small ones. Their private label businesses generate about 25 per cent of their revenues. It expects the contribution to go up to 30 per cent by the next fiscal year. Apart from taking Myntra products to the global market, Walmart will also be instrumental in cutting better deals with global brands. Myntra has already tied up with global brands such as Mango and Espirit for licences to act as their master franchise partner across India. Eleven Mango stores have been set up through this partnership, while the first Espirit store will be functional in the next two months.

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18 Brand Watch Madame scouting for a partner in southeast asia

omen’s fashion brand Madame is updating its sequenced stores in India. The brand’s joint venture with the Spanish unisex brand Camla Barcelona involves importing their products in men’s and women’s wear category. “We also set up their stores,” says Akhil. “We are their custodians in India and will create production for them gradually. The brand has about 22 to 23 stores in Spain. We have already set up 12 stores each measuring 3,000 sq. ft.” The products from this JV are 20 per cent cheaper than Madame. “It offers clothes for customers in the age 15 to 21 years, whereas Madame offers clothes for customers 18 to 40 years now. We recently launched a 450 sq ft store in Jalandhar,” says Akhil. With time, Madame has become sophisticated. “We have matured with our customers. An opportunity to explore the untouched category of women’s wear led us to form this JV,” he adds. The current Average Selling Price (ASP) of the clothes in this JV is Rs 1, 100 to Rs 1,200. The entire product portfolio is similar to Madame and will eventually evolve. Madame uses all verticals, EBO’s, shopin-shops, large formats stores, etc. to distribute our products. Madame is the only

Candyskin launches bralette collection with Mtv

Candyskin has collaborated with MTV on a bralette collection called Lace Stories. Lace Stories is a wide range of bralettes and lacy panties in 15 different styles and colors. As the name suggests, the collection is made with pretty laces which not only give a sexy appeal but are also in comfortable styles and fits making them wearable throughout the day. The collection has been designed considering the latest trends and tastes of today’s women and is the perfect mix of sexuality and functionality. Candyskin is a fashion and premium lingerie brand. It prides itself on being made for women by women. The brand is looking forward to reach out to women having a small or average

western women’s wear brand in India to have 120 stores. “Our stores are between 550 to 5,500 sq. ft. The West zone has about 18 stores. Mumbai has eight stores, out of which three are in the airport. In all, we have 600 points of sales including MBO’s and EBO’s and LFS,” Akhil informs. He feels the market at this moment is a bit complex especially with the onslaught of discounting policy which is taking a toll on everyone. “Around 85 per cent of our manufacturing is outsourced. However, the logistics system in our country is challenging to tackle this, we have set up a studio in Gurgoan that creates particular categories for the brand.”

chest size who equally struggle like full-figured women when it comes to bra shopping in India. The aim behind this collaboration is to collectively raise a bar of boldness in the market. The collection is a perfect combination of playful functionality and lace style oozing sexiness. Candyskin is just two years old and consistently strives to innovate and upgrade itself with every collection. The brand has also recently launched a whole functional collection in candylicious prints and colors of sweat absorbent bras and anti bacterial panties.

Raphael lombardo collaborates with Aranyani for handloom bags

Italian bag technologist Raphael Lombardo has collaborated with the Indian accessories brand Aranyani for a collection of hand-painted

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and handloom bags entitled ‘Finding your Roots.’ The collection mixes strong, structured bag shapes with abstract and expressive painting techniques. Each bag in the collection is made out of over 40 different patterns, many materials need to be combined. Each part of the bag has a different thickness, and strength. Aranyani also participated in The Menswear Festive Edit was held from November 2 to 8 at the House of Three Flagship Store in Bengaluru. The brand showcased a collection on men’s bags at the event. Lombardo has worked with a number of luxury brands including Cartier, Armani, and the LVMH Group and also teaches at the Italian Palazzo Pucci Fashion Academy in Florence, Italy.

Neeman’s launch shoes made with natural merino wool

Footwear brand Neeman’s has partnered with The Woolmark Company - the global authority on wool - to launch a range of shoes made from 100% Merino wool. Neeman’s is India’s first footwear brand to use the natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre in its shoes. The eco-conscious company which is leading a culture of sustainability and comfort in the footwear space in India, will showcase its timelessly attractive range of men’s shoes in unique experiential zones on 25th October. The shoes - conceptualised in America and designed in London - are made from the finest Merino wool from Australia, with the insoles made from plant-based castor bean oil and recycled rubber, which promises to offer the best comfort through all seasons in India. The collection will be unveiled at a live un-boxing event in Delhi to reveal sock-free, odour resistant, flexible and lightweight shoes that inherit all the eco-credentials of Merino wool. Celebrating the unique organic inclusion in Indian lifestyle through their exclusive men’s shoes, , Neeman’s Founder Mr Taran Chhabra said it was his own personal struggle to find a shoe that could truly provide allday comfort. “This lead me to look beyond synthetic fibres and my search ended with the naturally versatile Merino wool fibre,” he said. “Neeman’s has created a path-breaking collection of shoes by using Merino wool from Australia, which is superfine and lightweight, moisture-wicking and breathable, naturally odour resistant and keeps skin cool and dry even in extreme temperatures.

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20 Brand Retail Raymond to open EBOs for Ethnix

thnix, the brand by Raymond, will soon have 15 standalone retail outlets all over India. As of now Ethnix retails from 40 Raymond exclusive brand outlets, five large format stores, 360 multi-brand outlets, and on Raymond’s e-commerce store. Ethnix is a youthcentered traditional wear brand that caters to customers aged 25 to 35. The brand produces a wide range of ethnic wear including kurtas, sherwanis, bundis, and bandhgalas. The brand also uses a number of handloom textiles in its designs including Ikat and Kalamkari weaves. Along with expanding its retail presence, Ethnix is working on developing new fabrics and looking to the international fashion scene for embroidery and color inspiration in order to appeal to its youthful audience. The Raymond group is vertically and horizontally integrated to provide customers total textile solutions. It has a diverse

Style Baazar looking to spread retail presence

New store by Ashdeen in New Delhi product range of nearly 20,000 varieties of worsted suitings to cater to customers across age groups, occasions and styles. It has fabric and apparel brands. The group was incorporated in 1925. Raymond goes to 55 countries and supplies fabrics to leading garments manufacturers in the US, Europe and Japan. Now the fabrics and garments firm will strengthen its brand presence in the Middle East and South Asia.

have an organised format of retailing in this segment and Style Baazar would unleash the potential in such regions. The retailer aims to change the way shopping in the east and northeast is experienced. Even today many small towns in the eastern region run on stockand-sell in a rack model.

Citylife Retail plans to open about 50 stores Kolkata-based Style Baazar has a strong presence in the east and northeast. It mainly retails garments and non-apparel items such as appliances, bed-sheets, towels, imitations, cosmetics and more. It is now planning to have 75 new stores by 2019 in these areas. The target is 110 stores by 2020 and 150 stores by 2021. The stores between 8000 sq ft and 12,000 sq ft with a a common theme across cities. The company spends on merchandising, providing open space to walk around the store, mannequins and lighting. It does regular customer-engagement activities. These aim at making the customer visit the shop again and again, regardless of their purchase decision. The Kolkata-based chain has 54 stores across six states in the east. It is majorly present in Assam, Tripura, Orissa, Bihar, Jharkhand and West Bengal. For now the focus will remain on the east and northeast since these have many towns which do not

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 20

financial institution which have a 22 per cent stake. The retailer, who opened in 2013, is also expanding business into selling FMCG products. However, apparel and fashion accessories will remain its key business driver since these have around a 35 per cent margin as compared to just 18 per cent in FMCG. Citylife is present in Uttar Pradesh, West Bengal, Orissa, Bihar, Assam, Tripura, Haryana, Jharkhand and NCR. This is a fashion store for the entire family, men, women and children. The product range consists of clothes, accessories, footwear, toys, luggage, household and home furnishing needs. The aim is to build a sustainable retail business model by investing and contributing to the socioeconomic development of the nation.

Kolkata-based value fashion retail chain Citylife Retail is looking at opening 50 new stores within a year. The investment for opening these stores will be around Rs 200 crores. Currently it has 106 stores spread over 13 states with an average store size of 10,000 sq ft. It has grown by 160 per cent over the previous fiscal. The aim is to become a sizeable player in smaller towns and raise funds by diluting minority stake to a private equity player. CityLife is owned by three promoters and one

The hand embroidered saree brand Ashdeen has opened a flagship store in New Delhi. The new store is a light space that resembles an elaborate drawing room. Its checkerboard floor and sofas covered in cushions create an opulent atmosphere and the brand’s sarees not only hand on rails but are also displayed as wall hangings. The white and light pink walls of the store are embellished with gold fixtures and floral elements feature throughout the store as do cranes, the brand’s signature motif. Ashdeen will launch its new collection, “Vintage Tales 2018”, in store soon, the collection features floral embroidered silk sarees inspired by old world charm. Flowers, fruit, and butterflies adorn sarees such as the “Alia” which was inspired by the Bollywood actor Alia Bhatt after her performance in “Raazi”. Ashdeen was launched by Ashdeen Z Lilaowalla in October 2012 and the brand specialises in Oriental and Persian style hand embroidered sarees. Lilaowalla studied at Ahmedabad’s National Institute of Design and has won an Elle Young Designer Award for his work. Lilaowalla has also published a book of his research on Zoroastrian Kusti weaving entitled “Threads of Continuity”.

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11/15/2018 12:41:16 AM

22 Brand retail Zara opens first store in Kolkata

over a dozen states in India.The company, in 2017-18, had reported a revenue of over Rs 1,200 crore.

Online retailer Jaypore opens Bangalore store

ara opened its 21st in India and first in Kolkata. The store spread over 23,000 sq. ft. houses all three Zara’s product ranges for women, men, and children. The store is all white in Zara’s signature clean and modern style and features bright lighting and an array of mirrors. Located in the South City Mall it houses the latest Zara autumn/winter collection, displayed on mannequins throughout the store. It is situated on the mall’s ground level and joins

Van Heusen launches new stores in Bengaluru

ABFRL’s menswear brand Van Heusen has launched two new stores in Bengaluru. The launch of these brand outlets takes the store count in the city to 53. Van Heusen, India’s leading premium formal fashion brand from Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail, unveiled its flagship stores in revamped retail design concept. Being the 52nd and 53rd store respectively, the Brigade Road outlet spans across 2,342 sq ft and the HSR Layout store is spread across 1,840 sq ft. The store will also house collections from Van Heusen’s latest sub-brands including VDot and VH Sport. Van Heusen enjoys a high recall value and is perceived as a brand that provides power dressing to the young professionals.

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 22

other fashion brands including Forever 21 and Shoppers Stop. The mall, opened in 2008, includes over 134 retail outlets and over one million square-feet of retail space. Zara entered India in 2010 and is licensed under Inditex-Trent in the country. The brand reported a 19 per cent revenue increase for the 2018 fiscal compared to the year before. It also reported a total revenue of Rs 1,221.67 ($184 million) for fiscal year 2018.

V-Mart to invest Rs 100 crore to open new stores next fiscal

Value fashion and lifestyle products retailer V-Mart Retail, which primarily operates in smaller towns, is planning to invest Rs 100 crore next fiscal to open new stores and set up a new warehouse. The company is evaluating a omni-channel (offline and online retail) strategy to expand business and reach its customers. V-Mart primarily operates in Tier II, III and IV cities and follows a cluster-based model approach to expand. It plans to invest Rs 300 crore to double store count and treble its turnover to Rs 3,500 crore in the next five years. The company plans to add more than 200 stores in the next five years to create a network of 400 outlets. It also plans to set up a new warehouse in either Uttar Pradesh or Bihar to service its stores. V-Mart, at present, has a distribution centre located near Gurgaon to service all its stores. It currently operates about 185 outlets in

E-commerce player Jaypore has opened a brick-and-mortar store in Bangalore. It retails the brand’s private label as well as a curated selection of products by designers, artisans, and craft communities from across India. This includes clothing, jewelry, accessories, home décor, and other craft items. The store also has a premium section that features Banarasi saris and silver jewelry. Women’s wear, men’s wear, and children’s wear are all available in the store as well as footwear and other accessories. The store features fixtures designed by New Delhi-based Headlight Studio and was designed by Interiors & VM. Taking its inspiration from the colonnades of Hampi and camping furniture of Jaisalmer, the store features these as key design elements. Technology is also integrated into the store with tablets available to help shoppers. A seamless omnichannel experience has been created. Jaypore was founded in 2012 to connect global customers to India’s rich design heritage. The brand boasts customers in 60 countries and its online store delivers worldwide. The multi-brand retailer also has its own private clothing label, called Jaypore. Jaypore is an online platform for the finest craft based designs from across India. For five years it has been bringing the best of artisanal India online.

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24 IF InsIght

CMAI Apparel Index: Q2 records lowest ever growth at 0.18, Small brands trailing the pack

MAI’s Apparel Index for Q2 (July-Sept FY 201819) indicates growth has fallen to almost a no growth level and touched 0.18 points. It is the lowest ever, in last five years. Small brands are the big losers with negative growth of -1.71 points. However, big brand’s (Mid, Large and Giant together) cumulative growth of 3.39 points (much lower than 6.55 points in the last quarter) also failed to pull up the index significantly. It is important to observe, if Sales Turnover was to be considered as the only parameter for determining Apparel index, this quarter overall Apparel Index would have been

At 0.18 points, overall Q2 index is much lower than previous quarter’s (April-June FY 2018-19) 3.24 points and Q2 of previous year, which was 1.87 points. While Big brands together have grown at 3.39 points, individually Mid, Large and Giant brands have grown at 1.03, 3.61 and 8.36 points respectively (previous quarter figures were: 6.35, 5.95 and 8.07 points). Only Large brands have shown some buoyancy. Mid and Large brands grew much lesser than previous quarter. Much like all previous quarters, the biggest brand group -- Giant brands are continuously growing at the highest level, outgrowing any kind of recessionary trends. The gap this quarter is huge, in fact, its the highest ever. Small brands, at -1.71 points, seem to be in

a bad phase unable to pull along and reflect growth. They are not in a position to outsmart their business practices. Overall growth index is being pulled down by small players. In fact, Small brand’s continuously falling index is certainly a point of concern.

Sales Turnover dips but investment on the rise The cumulatives Sales Turnover in Q2 reflected a dip for the first time at -0.72 (previous quarter was 1.88 points). Around 32 per cent brands reported an increase this quarter. Perhaps for the first time almost 45 per cent brands have reported a loss in sales turnover. Incidentally, besides Large and Giant brands, both other Small and Mid Brand

negative at -1.80 . CMAl’s Q2 Apparel Index recorded a meagre growth of 0.18 points, whereas Small brands (turnovers of Rs 10 to 25 crores) is negative at -1.71points. For Mid brands (turnover of Rs 25-100 crores), growth stands at 1.03 points, almost five-times that of overall index; Large brands’ growth is 3.61 points, 20-times that of overall index. Whereas, last quarter Large Brands growth was just three-times (2.95 times) that of overall index. As usual, it’s the Giant brands that grew the most at 8.36, 46-times that of overall index. Giant brands have consistently been doing well every quarter, their rate of growth this quarter is much more than others while being higher than the previous quarter.

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 24

11/15/2018 12:59:55 AM

IF Insight higher than 1.58 points recorded in Q1. Almost 64 per cent respondents across brands have said their Inventory Holding moved north this quarter, indeed a signiﬁcant number and they were responsible for pulling down overall apparel index value. Increase in Inventory Holding impacts overall index negatively. Higher Inventory Holding indicates longer holding of inventories in warehouses

There are also some fixed expenditure in opening a new store etc, hence the expenses have gone up compared to last year,’’ points out Mayank Jain, GM, Monte Carlo.

Outlook for next quarter Around 50 per cent brands say the outlook for next quarter is ‘average’, while 38 per cent believe it will be ‘good’. Only 6 per cent feel the quarter will be ‘excellent’. However, another 6 per cent believe it will be ‘below average’. Comparatively the outlook recorded in previous quarter was ‘Good to Excellent’. Generally, in Q3 of the ﬁnancial year a number of festivals come up with sales picking up,

groups reported sales losses. A whopping number of respondents who reported a loss in Sales Turnover were among Small brands. ‘’We were able to get a good number of bookings. This has helped us increase Sales Turnover,’’says Cantabil’s head of marketing Deepak Singla . Sell Through recorded an Index growth of 1.14 this quarter, lower than 1.23 in previous quarter. Maximum growth in Sell Through was reported by Giant brands, followed by Small brands. ‘’Sell through has increased as cost realization is less. We were not able to make great profits as raw materials have become costlier but we have kept our prices constant.

Hence, Sell Through has increased,’’ explains Manu Chawla, Propreitor, Taiga Kids. While 53 per cent brands reported an improvement in Sell Through. However, 37 per cent brands saw no change and around 10 per cent recorded a dip in growth. As Dare Jeans owner Paresh Dedhia points out ‘’There is an increase in expenditure as everything is correlated. Inventory Holding and Sell Through has gone up as the prevailing market is slow. Buying and placing orders has come down and the cash flow is slow, hence, expenditure has increased.’’ Inventory Holding growth was at 2.1 points,

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 25

or shop shelves. Investments one positive aspect of Q2 is that fresh Investments have gone up by nearly 1.80 as against 1.70 points last quarter. Highest investments came from Mid brands, followed by Giant brands. Overall nearly 86 per cent respondents reported a rise in Investments which is much higher than 77 per cent in previous quarter, indicating most brands had to invest to manage and grow which means growth is not coming easily. ‘’We are expanding and since we are venturing new markets, we need to advertise to make our presence felt and this incurs cost.

the overall mood is positive. However, this doesn’t seem to be reflected this time due to the lacklustre performance of Q2. CMAl’s Apparel Index aims to set a benchmark for the entire domestic apparel industry and helps brands in taking informed business decisions. For investors, industry players, stakeholders and policymakers the index is a useful tool offering concrete and credible information, and is an excellent source for assessing the performance of the industry. The Index is analysed on assessing the performance on four parameters: Sales Turnover, Sell Through (percentage of fresh stocks sold), number of days of Inventory Holding and Investments (signifying future conﬁdence) in brand development and brand building. The Apparel Index research is conducted by DFU Publications.

11/15/2018 12:59:56 AM

26 iF insight

India’s retail sector poised for mega growth by 2020

he Indian retail sector, boosted by rapid urbanisation and digitisation, rising disposable incomes and lifestyle changes - particularly of the middleclass is projected to grow from $672 billion in 2017 to $1.3 trillion by 2020. Over the last two decades the retail sector has evolved rapidly to large multi-format stores in malls offering a global experience, and on to the highly techdriven e-commerce model. The organised retail market, growing at a CAGR of 20-25 per cent annually, is estimated to increase by 19 per cent across the top seven cities by 2020.

Investments fuel growth The government’s decision to allow 51 per cent FDI in multi-brand retail and 100 per cent FDI in single-brand retail under the automatic route attracted giants like Walmart to foray into India. The introduction of the Goods and Service Tax (GST) as a single unified tax

system in July 2017 and the government’s move to provide a single-policy framework for retail, FMCG and e-commerce are some other growth boosters. Stats reveal, India’s retail sector attracted investments worth $147.40 million in FY18, growing at 35 per cent year-on-year from $104.34 million in FY17. Considering future trends of Indian retail real estate, investors are showing confidence by making high value long-term commitments in the sector. The steady rise of PE investment has propelled mall developers to re-vamp and re-evaluate their portfolio by including factors like productmix, catchment and customer experience at the centre of their business strategies for malls.

Multi and Omni channel strategies redeﬁne retail Rapid digitisation, smartphone revolution and e-commerce have changed the face of retail in India. The result is the growing

popularity of multi-channel and omni-channel strategies that are redefining retail experience. Moreover, ‘experiential’ retailing has taken precedence in the brick-and-mortar format. Besides infrastructure, amenities, catchment area and varied tenant mix, the key factor determining the success of malls is its ability to offer shoppers an ‘experience’ which will ultimately bring them back. Meanwhile, demand for high-quality shopping experiences is spreading its wings to Tier II, III cities with mushrooming malls. The market is now shifting to offer retail real estate that meets global standards and conform to the needs of global brands and investors. Malls are no longer mere shopping destinations. Topperforming malls are mixed-use businesses that incorporate social entertainment options, provide a unique appeal along with a certain depth in shopping experience. Additionally, the ability to anticipate changing consumer needs and adapt accordingly makes malls successful today.

Mobile retail to reach 37.36 per cent by 2021 Recent market research indicates, mobilephone internet user penetration in India will reach 37.36 per cent of the total population by 2021. Additionally, overall internet audiences are estimated to surpass 635 million online users by 2021, paving the way for increases in online shopping. As per estimates, online retail is projected to grow to $73 billion by 2022, growing at a CAGR of 29.2 per cent. In fact, e-commerce in India is growing faster than in other countries like Australia, Japan, China and South Korea.

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 26

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28 cover story

Plus Size fashion a growing market as new/existing brands enter the fray Still taking baby steps, plus size fashion is catching up quickly in India. While many new brands are entering this space with exclusive stores and product lines, some established ones are joining in with their range of plus size fashion. The market holds a lot of potential especially with online retailers entering the segment, writes Shubhangi Bidwe • Plus-size segment in India is estimated to be around $5-6 billion by 2020 • NIFT with the Textiles Ministry, has introduced a standardised ‘India Size’ chart for the ready-to-wear garments • Demand for ﬁtted silhouettes has led to the opening of several customised clothing stores • Many brands are extending their size charts to include plus size garments • Several exclusive plus size labels are creating a niche in the market • Only about 0.1per cent of the luxury and premium market is plus sized • Many brands are bringing global trends like cold shoulders, offshoulders, ripped denims and bright prints for the plus size in India

he importance of plus size was highlighted recently when Gwyneth Paltrow’s investment in a plus-size clothing startup called Universal Standard, boosted the three-year-old company’s sales. Just last month India’s leading e-commerce fashion retailer Myntra enhanced its portfolio of in-house brands with the launch of its exclusive plus-size label ‘Sztori’. In fact, in India the plussize clothing wave began a few years ago. The plus-size segment in the $40-billion Indian online fashion apparel market is estimated at $5-6 billion by 2020, that is, 10-12 per cent of the overall market. Today, the line demarcating regular labels and those catering to plus-size has begun to blur. Not many online and offline fashion houses want to sell clothing solely for plussize. Many labels have started catering to both regular and curvaceous people. Around 30 per cent customers look for plus size clothing, a segment driven by increasing demand.

NIFT’s sizing survey to help segment Globally, 14 countries, including China, Spain and Germany, have their own size charts. In India, most home-grown brands adopt US/UK size charts, while international

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brands sell their global sizes. The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has already initiated a tender to acquire heavyduty, high-tech, whole-body 3D scanners that would be used to survey hundreds of measurements from a person. After this, NIFT will work out a weighted average to develop a comprehensive India size chart. Designer Narendra Kumar, who believes the Indian fashion industry is afraid to experiment with their design sensibilities, presented his first ever plus size range in collaboration with leading plus size store aLL Primero at the Lakme Fashion Week Winter/ Festive 2018. The designer’s collection, titled ‘Never Hyde’, explored the concept of Fashion for All. His collection offered a variety of styles like athleisure, day and evening wear. The range was driven by multiple fabrics that are easy to wear and durable such as ponte roma, interlock knit, jacquard, terry wool, looper knit, moss crepe and cotton linen. The focus of this collection was to break all conventions by adding a lot of colour, eccentric prints and silhouettes.”

Brands developing their own sizes As of now, in the absence of a standardised size chart providing well-fitted garments, most

11/15/2018 12:41:29 AM

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30 Cover Story

big players have come up with their own sizes that they feel best caters to their clientele. For instance, Fabindia, one of the country’s oldest retail chain stores, which started offering ready-to-wear garments in the 80s, evolved its own size charts and grading logic. Similarly aLL, a clothing brand of Future Group, caters exclusively to plus-sized people developed its sizes through market inputs, observation and customer feedback Women’s branded apparel-maker TCNS Clothing, too, commissioned an anthropometric study of Indian women in the early 2000s and introduced six sizes. The company, which sells women’s clothing under W, Aurelia and Wishful, utilises in-depth market research and data analysis to emphasise its fits. But not everyone is convinced. Fashion designer Anita Dongre, whose retail brand AND caters to the contemporary western-wear market for women, follows UK sizes with little modifications, keeping in mind the Indian woman.

Evolution of customised clothing stores

led to the opening of several customised clothing outlets. One such is Corporate Collars, a custom tailoring retail store in Mumbai, which started operations in 2013. Corporate Collars offers ‘tailoring on wheels’ where a mobile van goes to a customer’s doorstep to customise his/her clothes. The company, which offers customised western-wear for both men and women, is currently seeing a year-on-year client growth of 140-150 per cent.

There are also online portals that offer “custom-tailored” ready-to-wear options. FableStreet, an online professional-wear portal for women, offers both ready-to-wear and customised clothes. It was her own experience of not finding “proper-fitting” western-wear for women in the Indian market that made Ayushi Gudwani, founder and CEO, of the portal to open her online store in September 2016. To develop her brand’s size chart, she did market

Globally, 14 countries, including China, Spain and Germany, have their own size charts. In India, most home-grown brands adopt US/UK size charts, while international brands sell their global sizes. The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has already initiated a tender to acquire heavy-duty, high-tech, whole-body 3D scanners that would be used to survey hundreds of measurements from a person. After this, NIFT will work out a weighted average to develop a comprehensive India size chart.

The demand for fitted silhouettes has also

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Cover Story research for a year, taking measurements of around 1,000 women, and got a basic chart developed for the portal, which caters to clients across the country and even internationally. The portal has a seen a 200 per cent growth year-on-year since our launch.

Indian brands open up to plus-size fashion Indian fashion is still taking baby steps towards inclusivity, most often throwing in a single plus-sized or non gender-normative person into the runway mix simply to generate media interest. However, there are a few labels that take the time to apply their imagination to different shapes and sizes. A look at a few… Sassy Soda: Sassy Soda, a brand by Westside offers chic collections of casual T-shirts and tunics, in all hues of black for those who just couldn’t be asked to submerge with colour. They even have a collection of jackets, blazers and sweaters that lend your outfit a necessary edge. The price ranges Rs 1000 to Rs 2500 making it rather affordable. aLL: This plus sized clothing store believes fashion must be made accessible to one and all. With 41 standalone stores in 14 cities across India, aLL has a solid collection of jeans for both men and women, shirts, and casual trousers. Their ethnic wear for women has chudidars in solid colours, leaving plenty room to mix and match with mood for the day. Shivan And Narresh: While they are not exclusively a plus-sized label this luxury swimwear brand customises bikinis and one piece suits for bigger sizes. Tailorman: Tailorman has an eclectic collection to suit every palate – ranging from innovative and modern designs to elegant, timeless couture - using only the finest fabrics and materials. Backed by 18 years of experience with more than 10 million suits under their belt, they manufacture for global customers such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, DKNY and many Savile Row,

Indian fashion is still taking baby steps towards inclusivity, most often throwing in a single plus-sized or non gender-normative person into the runway mix simply to generate media interest. However, there are a few labels that take the time to apply their imagination to different shapes and sizes

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 31

London boutiques which specialize in bespoke clothing. Zivame: Zivame offers a diverse range of brands and styles, and delivers to over 20,000 pin codes across India. The bras at the store go all the way up to G cup, and are completely affordable. Faballey (Curve): Faballey Curve offers dresses and skirts upto size 4XL. It houses everything from maxis and minis, to peplums and midis. Effortlessly chic, this brand is also highly affordable. Its Maxi dresses and skirts at Rs 1,400. Mustard: Mustard offers everything from kurtas to button down shirts to comfortable lounge pants for daily office wear. The brand offers plus size versions of their regular sized clothing, making the process more inclusive. They also do international shipping and free returns making life that much easier.

Market challenges The plus size market is a growing one, which is yet to see its full potential. It was ignored by fashion houses over the years and continues to face many challenges From supply issues to very little options. A look at some these: Variability in supply and demand: The demand for plus size clothes is growing worldwide, but supply is still lacking in comparison to growing demand. Monotonous options: Choices for plus size people are limited. It is difficult for them to find trendy clothes. Compared to regular sizes, their choices are still limited. Size issues: Different brands use different materials which results in specific structural issues. Therefore, it’s hard to find variable fits of the same size tag. Quality Issues: With the exception of high end brands, it is quite impossible to find quality dresses for plus sized customers. The price is always a big factor leading to inadequacy of balance among consumers. Time Factor: Preparation of clothes for the plus sized consumers takes a lot of time. Finding a dress with correct blend of colour and fabric acquires a lot of time which further creates inadequacy in supply and demand. Plus puts new demands on designers: Besides designing plus-sized clothing requires greater expertise and awareness about how to dress the real woman’s body, not designers’ favorite six-foot-tall, size-00 model. To date, luxury brands and retailers have been the most resistant to embracing the plus-size woman. Smith report’s EDITED data shows only about 0.1per cent of the luxury and premium market is plus sized. Gucci for instance offers an increasing range of styles in large and XL sizes. It will also help Nordstrom fill its racks as it broadens its plus-size offerings. The plus-size luxury fashion market is growing and these women have the means and desires to dress as fashionably as her size 00 counterpart.

Now, plus-size fashion is no longer confined to boring colors and loose silhouette. Many brands are helping plus fashion to evolve by introducing global trends to the segments like cold shoulders, off-shoulders, ripped denims and bright prints, among others. These brands challenge the prevailing status quo by vehemently believing that “Big is Awesome!”

Stores for the plus size As the market spreads numerous plus size stores are opening up in India. Larjjosa, which delivers across India, offers a wide range of clothes like tops, tunics, jackets, dresses and bottoms for ‘curvy’ women, with prices starting from rs Interestingly, Larjjosa isn’t the only store in India that is helping plus-size people in the country move beyond Indian-wear, the only option for most large-sized people in the country for lack of availability of western clothes in their size. There are a host of players now, including Pluss, Lurap, aLL The Plus Size Store, etc, which are making it possible for them to look and feel trendy. One of the earliest players in the segment was Pluss, an online plus-size clothing store, launched in 2006. It stocks a wide range of styles like dresses, shirts, trackpants, shorts, trousers, blazers, waistcoats, denims, tunics, kurtis, leggings, jeggings, skirts, tops, etc, for both men and women, with prices starting from as low as Rs 599. Now, plus-size fashion is no longer confined to boring colors and loose silhouette. Many brands are helping plus fashion to evolve by introducing global trends to the segments like cold shoulders, off-shoulders, ripped denims and bright prints, among others. These brands challenge the prevailing status quo by vehemently believing that “Big is Awesome!”

11/15/2018 12:41:30 AM

32 iF exclusive

CMAI Needs to take a leap into the next level: Rahul Mehta

ahul Mehta has been unanimously re-elected the President of Clothing Manufacturers Association of India popularly known as CMAI for the year 2018 - 2020. Under his leadership, CMAI has been growing leaps and bounds. He speaks to DFU Publications about the issues plaguing the Indian apparel manufacturing industry today and his vision ahead for CMAI.

Being unanimously re-elected as the President of CMAI, how do you plan to go forward? Personally, I would like to expand CMAI’s scope and activities. At the moment, the National Garment Fair plays a dominant role in the service we provide. In the last couple of years, arbitration and conciliation processes and dispute resolution has also become a crucial part of CMAI’s activities along with skills development training, for which, we have a tie up with the government. We have trained over 45,000 workers under the ISD (Integrated Skill Development) scheme. CMAI needs to take a leap into the next level. If you analyze the structure of our domestic industry, we have focused on domestic segment for the last several years. There are a few major constraints/limitations in the

industry viz: poor productivity in manufacturing processes; hesitance to increase scale of operations; lack of brand creation, they need not be international or national, even regional is fine. There is inadequate knowledge and appreciation of the strength or value of creating a brand versus having a label; exposure to social compliance which is going to play an important role in coming years like adherence to labour laws, sustainability and manufacturing green products etc, These are areas where CMAI should try to push members into getting greater efficiency, awareness and exposure. “Some superficial study was done in the 1990’s and we are merely adding 10 per cent on a year on year basis and arriving at to the figure about the latest size of market. It is time CMAI undertakes a major research to determine the size of the market. We are already in talks with research agencies and might be announcing soon.” At the macro level, the biggest constraint of our industry is determining the actual size of the industry. Estimates about the size of Indian market range from `150,000 to `200,000 crores to `500,000 to `600,0000 crores. We have no clarity about the share of organized and unorganized segments. Some superficial study was done in the 1990’s and we are merely adding 10 per cent on a year on year basis and arriving at to the figure

about the latest size of market. It is time CMAI undertakes a research to determine the size of the market. We are already in talks with research agencies and might be announcing soon. Essentially, these are the five directions that I will like to take CMAI in the coming two years. Of course, other initiatives will continue. Nobody can deny the importance and role played by the NGF’s in the domestic industry’s calendar. The January fair is shaping up well and I expect January 2019 fair to have 350 to 400 participants, a far cry from the 150 to 170 participants we had a couple of years ago. We are looking at various other formats/ platforms for manufacturers and retailers. We have it on the agenda and will be announcing shortly. We are also hoping to tie up with regional associations and strengthening the bond between regional associations and the national organization. In the last few years, we have been able to achieve a high level of credibility with the government and are hoping to continue this relationship. Exciting times are ahead. I am hoping in the coming years the strong foundation our predecessors laid down, which I tried to consolidate, will be consolidated further. We will continue growing both in stature and numbers.

earlier, CMAI used to be the biggest body representing the entire industry, providing a platform to all brands. I believe all these activities have now been restricted to small and mid segment players where as the industry is growing out of this space. What is the way ahead? I disagree, in fact, in the last few years the association has come much closer to larger players. I would say, for several years, CMAI only represented the interest of smaller and regional players, where as larger players were more or less out of the ambit. I think it was from the time of excise duty representation that we had earlier, it was strengthened by GST and today with the Captain’s Forum and the Captain’s Table, two groups have been formed within the association. Almost three large manufacturers and retailers are actively involved in CMAI’s activities. It may be recalled that a meeting called by CMAI when GST was being introduced was attended by

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IF Exclusive industry bigwigs like: Sanjay Lalbhai, Noel Tata, Ashish Dixit of Aditya Birla, J Suresh of Arvind, B S Nagesh and Govind Shrikhande of Shoppers Stop (then), Vasant Kumar of Max, Sanjay Behl and Gaurav Mahajan from Raymonds, Sanjeev Mohanty from Levi’s and of course Kishore Biyani and Rakesh Biyani from Future Group. Gautam Singhania could not make it due to a flight delay. So, when top players from the industry attend a meeting called by CMAI, I don’t think the association can aim for anything higher. Today, all these people are actively involved and supporting the Association. CMAI is now closely aligned with and involved with larger players, both at the retail and brand level.

You mentioned CMAI is looking at partnering or associating with other associations. What inclusive role does CMAI plan for them as well as providing platform to international brands coming to India at the National Garment Fairs? “There is a lot of scope for expansion of National Garment Fair. Ideally, I would like it to be a one stop solution for the entire clothing industry. Space being a constraint, we are hoping to keep adding to that. As for international brands/ retailers, the only factor we have to keep in mind is these fairs are essentially providing a platform to Indian brands and manufacturers.” At NGF, our biggest constraint is space. Today, we are unable to fully satisfy even existing members and supporters. Last year, even after adding about 10,000 sq. mt. space, we had about a 150 people on the wait list who could not be accommodated. Fortunately, NESC complex is adding one more building to the existing exhibition area, if that happens we will have another 20,000 sq.mt we can think of newer participants then, not just international brands but also service providers, fashion accessories manufacturers, home furnishing, footwear etc. Frankly, across the world, at trade fairs it is not the biggies who participate, because they have their own marketing arrangements, shows etc. It is always the small and medium players, be it CHIC fair in China or The Canton Fair or Magic Show or any show in London and Paris and Spain, you will always find the importance of small and medium sized brands. This is a platform we are providing to these players and I would not want any activity or alteration of the basic format of NGF which will hurt the interest of these players. However, we are open to looking at other events, standalone events; even separate fairs which could be a more inclusive event for external players. It could be: service provider, fabric suppliers, international brands etc. These are various options and formats we are continuously looking at.

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What is the possibility of Indian brands spreading their wings globally? In neighbouring countries and countries where there is a large Indian diaspora, there is a huge potential for Indian brands. Recently, I was invited by the government to represent India at a meeting with the Sri Lankan delegation, who were keen on duty free garment imports into India, without any cap or restriction. As you know, today they have a cap of eight million pieces. While taking a strong stand against opening up in this manner, I emphasized on reciprocal duty concession for Indian garments and brands entering Sri Lanka. We are having talks with Bangladesh on similar lines. We are strongly taking up with neighboring countries, especially those with whom we have some kind of FTA of their goods coming into India that our brands should also be given similar concessions in their markets. Their markets are small compared to India but still have a potential. It’s like opening up to one more state within India, say UP or Maharashtra. CMAI is actively supporting the movement and propagating our expansion. On whether Indian brands will be able to export to Europe or the US or UK under our brand name, honestly, it’s a tough challenge because brand marketing is an expensive proposition. I don’t see our brands to be inferior in any manner but there could be limitations in terms of resources to market our own brand.

Bangladesh has duty free entry into India and India is making a presentation as a rule of region. What initiative has CMAI taken on this? We are the ones who took the initiative. CMAI has been closely interacting with the ministry of commerce and textile to say that we are not against the entry of Bangladesh or Sri Lankan goods into our market, we should have a stipulation of a fabric forward policy, so that they can use either fabric manufacturers within those countries or Indian fabric and secondly our garment should have access to their markets. CMAI has been in the forefront of pushing this agenda.

What is your vision for the retail industry? I am not able to reconcile to the fact that many of our members are struggling to survive. On the other hand is the demographic fact that: the population is increasing; urbanization is increasing; and demand for western clothing is also increasing. Hence, I don’t understand why the domestic industry cannot grow more than 10 to 12 per cent. Hopefully, our study will throw some light and we hope to continue it at intervals to measure market movements. I find

a very encouraging future for the industry. Yes, shifts could take place in various segments, be it organized-unorganized, small, medium, own label, national label. But the overall market should be growing at a healthy pace.

What is CMAI doing on technology front? “While we have taken care of skills development at the basic level to an extent, I would like CMAI to play a role in improving productivity. Better productivity can happen with more technology. Now, technology does not necessarily mean only machinery, it can also be better systems and processes. Hopefully, CMAI will play a role in improving them because that is going to be essential; the market in spite of its growth is becoming more competitive.” While we have taken care of skills development at the basic level, I would like CMAI to play a role in improving productivity. Better productivity can happen with more technology. Technology does not necessarily mean only machineries it can also be better systems and processes. Hopefully, CMAI will play a role in improving them because that is going to be essential; the market in spite of its growth is becoming more competitive. More imported goods will be coming in, possibly at lower prices and margins will get squeezed. You cannot survive by simply increasing prices, you have to reduce costs. You cannot reduce cost by making inferior products. That will be the fastest way to disaster. You will have to improve productivity at your unit whether it is a 25 machine unit or a 250 machine unit. I am hoping CMAI will be able to play a significant role in this regard.

Is CMAI pushing the case for opening fabric imports for the kind of fabrics and yarns not available in India? Yes, we have spoken to the government. We are aligning ourselves with the demands or representations and requests from exporters led by AEPC, that India is too limited in its basket of products. While we are expanding our market, our product basket remains stagnant. I have said this for the last 10-12 years, that India’s forte is cotton-based products in the middle priced casual wear category. I am willing to stick my neck and say India has almost 30 to 35 per cent market share in the world and you cannot keep growing at that level. They are not going to buy 50 per cent. So the only way Indian exports can grow is to expand the product basket. Both the government and exporters need to realize this. There is a limit to which you can keep supplying rayon blouses and cotton casual shirts. You will have to move on to other products and for that, either you need to introduce those fabric manufacturing capacities into India or allow duty free imports.

11/15/2018 12:41:31 AM

34 iF exclusive

Blackberrys’ A/W collection ups the fashion quotient of the free-spirited man

lackberrys, the brand from Mohan Clothing (MCCPL) has launched its new A/W collection. The collection is further categorised as: Mainline, Urban and Casual. “The collection, focusing on the free spirited men, amalgamates technology and art,” points out Ramesh Kaushik, Vice President-Brand Experience. “Mainline includes convertibles like jackets, belts and other categories. Urban and Casual, explore the fun side of our consumers,” he adds. Focused on smart casuals, Blackberrys Casuale offers wardrobe essentials for work, leisure and outdoor. The collection comprises shirts, casual trousers, blazers, jackets, polos and T-shirts. “Blackberrys is a definitive stop for a man with an aspiring personality, and taste for fine dressing,” Kaushik explains. “Under the deft and visionary leadership of Mohan brothers, Blackberrys has re-invented

the paradigms of success with wardrobe solutions that fulfils the fashion lifestyle needs of forward-thinking Indian men,” he adds.

Blackberrys Casuale A/ W18 collection Kaushik points out, “Our new collection is about carrying your outfit with different attitude.” It is crafted to let the outfit transform from a business look to evening party look. The collection comprises three-piece suits that enable a man to carry different looks with a single ensemble. It also offers multi-collar shirts that blend with different occasions. Blackberrys Formals A/W 18 collection is designed to meet the comfort needs and lifestyles of aspiring professionals. These multi-occasion garments are available with reversible jackets, detachable collars and lapels, and other surprise elements that enable them to be worn on different occasions. Trousers are available with functional units such as reversible trims, satin waist, etc that make them perfect for weddings. The same pair of trousers can be transformed into formal wear by pairing it with a belt.

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For the social entrepreneur “This season, we are focusing on cotton linen and knits,” states Kaushik. “Comfort being our topmost priority, we lend a clean fit to our clothes while maintaining their casual appeal. The collection carries warm tones, neutrals and a blend of happy colors that showcase an outgoing personality that enjoys casual outfits.” Blackberrys Casuale is designed for the aspiring and sociable men. The USP of the brand is its fit, this season’s collection is the definitive blend of trending colours, styles that are curated to keep that aspiring personality dressed impactful. The prints and patterns exhibit the sociable side of today’s entrepreneurs. The collection comprises a whole range of checkered shirts, and blazers that are exclusive in terms of colors and combinations. There are also casual khakis in fashion colors and neutral tones, casual shirts, polos, T-shirts and autumn blazers and winter jackets.

Fashion evolves smartly Fashion has evolved cleverly. The industry has made comfort as a prime element along with fashion. There is much lesser homeoffice-home outfit. Mix and match pattern, inspired from the retro look comes in different ways every season. Blackberry’s plans to expand the three brands with exclusive store launches in Tier II and III cities while focusing on the Southern region. “We will launch over 100 exclusive stores in the country in this coming year.

11/15/2018 12:41:33 AM

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11/15/2018 12:41:33 AM

36 iF exclusive

A blend of tradition and modernity in Vero Moda’s A/W’18 collection

his Autumn/Winter 18, consumers have witnessed a beautiful amalgamation of history and modernity as Vero Moda unveiled its new collection. With clothes influenced by the renaissance to ones displaying flamboyant glitter, the Vero Moda A/W’18 collection fuses high fashion with everyday wear. A brand synonymous with contemporary fashion and designs, Vero Moda caters to the independent young woman who wants to dress well but pay less. “We offer quality, affordable and inspiring clothing for the young woman who wants to look good and have fun with her look,” states a brand spokesperson. The brand offers an enviable line of denim in a variety of sizes tailored to suit Indian body types.

Acceptance of denim in everyday wear With growing influence of global fashion and an increase in disposable income, women’s western wear segment is getting more traction and wider acceptance. “With an increase in the number of working women, denims are being accepted within the workspace too, replacing indo-western and ethnic wear,” he explains. Overtime, denim has come to be viewed as a wardrobe staple in the country, with the fabric being sported across occasions – workwear as well as casualwear. It is now considered as one of the most versatile fabrics for men and women as it can be effortlessly sported casually as day to day wear and work wear. “Denim wear at Vero Moda is curated for fashion-conscious, independent young women who want to dress smart with quality, affordable, and inspiring clothing. It is designed to explore the feminine universe with an effortlessly chic and confidently fashionable take,” the spokesperson notes.

Zero compromise on quality Today, shoppers willingly pay higher prices for quality products. “Vero Moda constantly invests in fabric, technologies and product innovations that ensure a zero compromise on quality,” he

adds. Growing fashion needs of women across the world compels Vero Moda to expand its reach to an ever-evolving demographic, with a need to make international fashion accessible across various geographies in India.

Rapid expansion of casualwear Casualwear has always been an integral part of the Indian fashion industry. It has constantly evolved and is accepted by people of all ages, personalities and body types. “While casual wear is primarily accepted among the youth, it is not restricted to a particular age group.

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It is a combination of high street fashion and street wear that is suitable for individuals with varied tastes,” he states. With fashion trends evolving on a day to day basis, consumers needs are constantly changing as well. With the influx of fashion labels in the Indian market, the casual wear category is constantly expanding. “Rapidly evolving trends result in low lead time and a drastic reduction in product shelf life for casual wear. Brands need to refresh their inventory within short intervals to deliver new and improved products and manage consumer expectations,” he sums up.

11/15/2018 12:41:35 AM

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11/15/2018 12:41:37 AM

38 iF exclusive

Carat launches new range of kurtas

enswear brand Carat is adding a range of kurtas this season. “The range includes simple to designer kurtas in handloom, linen, ducain fabrics,” notes Sanjay Gala, Owner, Carat Shirts. The brand has expertise in white shirts in fabrics such as cotton, linen, PC etc along with a full range in colored shirts also. It also offers colored shirts in blocks, bolds, checks, prints, etc.

Threading the untrodden path Incepted in the year 1998, Carat has a huge brand presence in the domain of white shirts. “We specifically chose this color because of its uniqueness, and as no one in the industry had thought of working on white as it had a great risk factor,” states Gala. We also added colored shirts two years ago. While our white shirts are mostly formals, the colored shirts are a mix of semi formals and party wear,” he adds.

Fabrics sourced from branded mills With most of its shirts manufactured in-house, Carat has a production capacity of 10,000 shirts per month. “We also outsource some of the work such as designing, embroidery, etc,” states Gala. The brand majorly uses cotton, linen, PC and other fabrics from branded mills like Arvind, Ruby and Vardhaman. “Although most of these fabrics are available in Mumbai, we also procure some of them from Gujarat, Meerut and Tamil Nadu,” he adds.

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Targeting men over the age of 40, Carat offers white shirts in the range of Rs.600 to Rs.1,600. Its colored shirts are available from Rs.500 to Rs. 1,000. The kurtas, on the other hand, range between Rs.350 to Rs. 1,500 wsp.

Presence across the country Operating in core business style, Carat does not have its own stores, and works through its agents, distributors and agents. “We have over 400 retailers and over 300 distributors across India. We have a pan India presence including a strong presence in Maharashtra, Gujarat, Karnataka, Kerala, Madhya Pradesh and

Tamil Nadu. We plan to expand in the Eastern region and are collaborating with distributors there,” informs Gala. The brand does not have any online presence.

A new concept to overcome cash crunch Speaking about the current market, Gala says, “The market has picked up due to the festival season. Online sales have impacted our offline business. It is a wait and watch situation,” observes Gala. “We wish to franchise out lets and are working on it. We also use a concept called refilling which keeps our business keeps flowing. “As the market slowed down due to demonetisation, we faced huge cash crunch. To overcome this, we introduced this C&C concept where in the retailer can buy their goods at a very reasonable rate giving them a profit margin of at least 40 per cent,” observes Gala. “We introduced this concept in the last CMAI fair and have received very good response. An important lesson we learnt from our seniors is that it is preferable to keep the business rolling at lower profits rather than at huge profits,” he adds.

11/15/2018 12:41:38 AM

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11/15/2018 12:41:38 AM

40 iF exclusive

Duke’s launches Austria inspired stylish options in sweaters, jackets

uke sweaters & jackets’ collection for 2018-19 is a gamut of styles in lush fabrics, trending colors, designer patterns and prints, inspired by Austria. The men, women, and kids collections have been developed in sync with global trends. Since Duke understands Austria, which hosts fashion weeks, has its own state when it comes to styling up woolens tops, jackets like bombers, long coats, ski jackets, tweed coats, regular jackets, sports jackets, chester’s, with hood jackets, washed jackets, mix n match and sweaters like stripes, jacquards, sporty, full zippers, hooded, etc. The collection is in various styles with superb fits, international designs, variety of fabrics and interesting patterns.

Sensational form of creation The collection incorporates exceptional and superior details in its designs, adding on to the sensational form in creation. Known for its standardised fits, superior quality, wide range and ‘fashion-right’ styles in its segment, Duke is the trusted brand amongst consumers. Involved

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with a unique and creative design process, the sweaters & jackets collection revolves around several interesting concepts and promises to offer a global fashion statement. Kuntal Raj Jain, Director- Duke Fashions says, “Our target audience is today’s youth who is looking for trendy and stylish range that is sync with international designs, fashions and quality. Duke is a value for money brand and our mission is to make available the international designs and styles at highly reasonable prices. It is our duty to provide our customers the inspiration they need to look and feel confident. Our Sweaters & Jackets collection’18-19 is also based on the same philosophy”. Duke Fashions, has been conferred the president award; three national awards for excellent quality readymade garments and outstanding entrepreneurship. The brand was crowned India Power Brand in the US. The brand has an unbeatable marketing network comprising of over 4,000 multi brand outlets and more than 360 exclusive stores across major cities. Its products are exclusively placed at big chain stores and online portals.

11/15/2018 12:41:41 AM

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11/15/2018 12:41:43 AM

42 iF exclusive

Oxemberg shines with a new denim collection and a campaign shot in Sicily

“W

ith each new season, Oxemberg creates a stir in the fashion space that makes dynamic, young men sit up and take notice,” observes Gaurav Poddar Executive Director & President, Siyaram Silk Mills, the force behind brand Oxemberg. This year, the brand has launched a new denim range that reflects the changing trends and moods of the youth. This range has been curated to perfection from premium fabric with detailed stitching throughout. “We also offer sharp formals, classy semi-formals, smart casuals and stylish club wear that breathe life and color into your closet,” he adds.

Growth of the omnichannel concept Poddar believes the Indian retail structure is embroiled in an interesting battle between the two paradigms: online and offline. “Mobile revolution, increasing digitisation and e-commerce are revolutionising the operations of the industry,” he explains. A culmination of

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all these factors is the growth of omni-channel concept in India. “We need to understand the buying patterns of Generation Y,” Poddar feels. “This generation is more tech savvy and has clarity of purpose in their minds. They love to wear what they believe in, and flaunt their persona. Omni-channel also plays a vital role in the growth of this segment,” he opines.

One-stop online shopping destination Oxemberg doesn’t believe in discounting. The brand is present in a few online retail channels to ensure that the customers are not hampered with the unavailability of products. “We are devising strategies to build a one stop online purchase point for our buyers,” reveals Poddar. He says online shopping is more about capitalsing the confidence that the customer has in the brand. Once customer’s loyalty is assured, it’s just a matter of making his shopping experience as easy as possible. “We believe in building the confidence and trust of our buyers in our brand,” asserts Poddar.

A new milestone For the first time, any fashion brand has organised a shoot in Palermo, Sicily. “We have set an iconic benchmark in the Indian apparel terrain which enhances the coolness quotient of our new collection,” Poddar avers. The casual yet spunky vibe of the campaign syncs perfectly with the ethos of ‘ Make your move’. It reflects the attitude of those who dare to take a step towards the unconventional,” he sums up.

11/15/2018 12:41:46 AM

43 Apparel Accessories Textiles EXHIBIT AT AUSTRALIA’S DEDICATED SOURCING EXPO Event Feature

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20 - 22 NOVEMBER 2018 MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

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1/197 Bay Street, Brighton, Victoria, Australia Tel: +61 3 9596 9205 • Email: info@iecgroup.com.au

Partners

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 43

11/15/2018 12:41:46 AM

44 iF exclusive

Back to nature with John Players’ Autumn/Winter’18 collection

elebrating the playful, fashionable and cool spirit of today’s youth, the John Players’ Autumn/Winter ’18 collection was launched in stores recently. The brand, this season, presents a larger than life imagery as an extension of its recent campaign ‘Be Younique’. “The campaign embodies the brand insight of ‘Unique is the new authentic’ and encourages people to feel confident about their own ingenious ways of styling, setting them apart from the crowd,” says Vikas Gupta, CEO, ITC (Wills Lifestyle and John Players. Established in 2002, John Players is a youth fashion apparel brand from ITC. The brand, committed to leverage ITC’s proven competencies in understanding consumer insights, brand building and design, combines the quality and consistency of product with the innovation and immediacy of a contemporary fashion brand. It is available across the country through a nation-wide network of over 125 EBOs and MBOs.

Reconnecting with nature John Players Autumn/Winter’18 collection, themed ‘Jungle Diaries’, focuses on rebuilding man’s connect with nature. Perfect for today’s

young, confident, urban consumer, who is also wild and free-spirited, the collection offers that extra edge be it in playful detailing, youthful patterns in jungle inspired motifs or refined aesthetics. As Gupta states, “Jungle Diaries draws its inspiration from nature and its elements.” Jungle Diaries collection embraces nature in all its uniqueness and wilderness with sophisticated, natural palette applied to classic jungle and foliage prints.”We have combined quality and consistency with innovation in design, best fit and fabric detailing to give each garment its own unique story,” Gupta explains. The A/W’18 collection features trendy white shirts, denims and chinos with key elements in designing and fabric to offer the very essence of power dressing to today’s youth. “The white shirts have been designed

with a special ‘stay white’ finish that helps retain the whiteness up to 15 washes. Chinos and denims have also been crafted for comfort with features like High IQ for lasting color upto 20 washes, 4 way stretch and knitted denims for increased comfort, flexi waistband for better fit around waist and waistband gripper for keeping the tucked shirt in place,” notes Gupta.

Intricate detailing to fabrics The collection emphasises on shirts, polos and T-shirts with fabric textures such as twills, dobbies, and slubs to render stylish finish to apparels. “Design, print and stitch detailing like functional pockets, interior foliage, turn up sleeves and chinos, shadow checks, inner collar bands, tapes and tabs have been used for playful styling to compliment today’s youth’s sensibility,” he adds. Intricate detailing to fabric has been done through innovative anti-microbial finish on the garments. This neutralises odor causing bacteria keeping the garments fresh during long days. Cool features like easy to iron (ETI) finish to reduce maintenance and special wash to avoid shrinkage ensure longevity of apparels,” informs Gupta. Using the quintessential elements of nature, the John Players A/W’18 collection translates it into color palettes of lighter earthy tones like olive, beige, mustard, oranges, teal, grey and white to compliment the colors of the season and its mood. The collection is available in all John Players stores across the country.

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 44

11/15/2018 12:41:48 AM

45 EXHIBIT AT AUSTRALIA’S DEDICATED SOURCING EXPO FOR FOOTWEAR & LEATHER

Event Feature

4000+ TRADE

Co located with

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20 - 22 NOVEMBER 2018 MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE

Organised by: International Exhibition and Conference Group Contact: Julie Holt, Exhibition Director Email: julie@iecgroup.com.au • Tel: +61 449 148 886

1/197 Bay Street, Brighton, Victoria, Australia Tel: +61 3 9596 9205 • Email: info@iecgroup.com.au

Partners

Inside Fashion-Vol-8.indd 45

11/15/2018 12:41:49 AM

46 iF exclusive

V-Tex to add women’s westernwear line, launch new brand, website Women’s wear brand V-Tex plans to add a complete western wear line soon besides launching a new brand and website. “Women today are opting for leggings and kurtis instead of saris. We wanted to bring out the difference between bottoms and leggings and offer them a comfortable product,” says Nikunj Kawar, Executive Director, V-Tex Quality at pocket friendly prices

aunched in November 2017, V-Tex aims offers best quality women’s fashion in the age group of 18 to 35 years at affordable rates. The price points vary between Rs 329 to Rs 2,000. “We chose this segment as we wanted to give a good quality product to the women in the ZTier II and III cities at

affordable rates,” he adds. Compared to children’s wear or men’s wear, women’s fashion offers a wide range of material and designs. “Our mother company, the Vijaya Lakshmi Group has been providing fabrics for women’s garments for the last 35 years. We have a huge set up and infrastructure to create new type of fabric, fashion, designs, patterns, etc,” notes Nikunj.

Though V-Tex has its own production unit, it outsources some production. “Our production capacity is 40,000 pieces per month which we plan to increase to 200,000 pieces a month,” states Nikunj. “We use cotton, polyester and Lycra fabrics and also viscose to a certain extent. We plan to launch a complete collection using hemp soon. Around 90 per cent of our fabrics are sourced from India and 10 per cent from Italy,” he adds.

Omni-channel retail for growth At present, V-Tex does not follow a specific retail format, but intends to do so in the next six months. “We plan to work with MBO’s in future as we are about to launch a new brand. We intend to make it a one stop fashion store for women catering to every segment and need of women,” notes Nikunj. V-Tex will also launch own website soon. At present, the brand has over thousand retailers and over 200 distributors across India who channelise the flow of the company’s business. Present pan India, V-Tex has a particularly strong presence in Madhya Pradesh, Karnataka and Delhi. It also has tieups with Amazon, Myntra, Flipkart and Snapdeal, and has been doing considerably well online.

Changing market trends “The market has changed tremendously. Earlier fashion trends changed once in six months but now we have to produce something new every week,” states Nikunj Kawar. “Every 40 days we have to introduce either a new design, print or new fabric, etc. Only people who offer variety survive in the market. We have formed tie ups with renowned designers to enhance our products,” he adds. Indian brands copy European and American fashion and launch it in the Indian market. “However, we aim to create new fashion trends in India and present it to the world. Renowned for its textiles, we would like India to be known for its fashion. We aim to known as a global fashion maker in the next two to three years,” he sums up.

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11/15/2018 12:41:54 AM

iF exclusive

Fifty Degree caters to consumers who are looking to break away

“Fifty Degree is not just any premium lifestyle brand; it caters to the needs of consumers who are looking to break away from their regular, boring, monotonous dressing”

Vinay Mehra Founder and MD, Fifty Degree

ifty Degree, the flagship brand of V3 Exports, recently entered the Indian T-shirt market. The brand specialising in men’s T-shirts has four categories: formals, basics, sports and casuals. To enhance its reach, Fifty Degree has tied up with e-commerce majors Flipkart, Amazon and Paytm for e-retailing within India. Fifty Degree’s brand ambassador Gaurav Chopra, is a renowned TV personality. On unveiling the latest collection Chopra said “Fifty Degree reflects the pulse of the current generation which looks at clothing as more than a reflection of their attitude and status. Fifty Degree encapsulates that vibe in each thread. It reflects the persona of the fashion-forward man who is urbane, outgoing, and dynamic while wanting to live his life to the fullest.” Chopra says wardrobe preferences of consumers worldwide are undergoing a distinct shift – from same old formals to trendy and casual attire. Indian customer’s choices are also shifting. The brand’s motto is adaptability and comfortable fashion going hand-in-hand with style. “Fifty Degree is not just any premium lifestyle brand; it caters to the needs of consumers who are looking to break away

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from their regular, boring, monotonous dressing,” opines Vinay Mehra, Founder and MD, Fifty Degree.

The endorsement journey Talking about endorsement, Chopra said, “I began as a designer as I did a course from NIFT. Fifty Degree and I have that fit and connect. I am careful of what I endorse on social media, what I write, what I say. It is the people who make us. It is an intrinsic fit between me and the brand. The brand ambassador should only recommend things that are worthy.” On his involvement he said, “I give inputs and suggestions and coordinate with the research team. Fashion is only an indication of the times. In the 17th century Europe, breeches

were in fashion. The more widespread fashion is the more diverse it gets. Fashion is an amalgamation of styles and brands. A lot of people find jackets and ties irrelevant. Instead of fostering a work culture, these hamper comfort. The T-shirt has become important since you need not always travel for work and as long as you have a laptop, the job is done. You can have a meeting in New York while being in Mumbai. A T-shirt is not about the brand, it’s about your attitude. It is an expression of your attitude. The brand encourages you to discover your comfort zone.” For Chopra, generally the brands that cater to the young compromise on quality and just to be cool, they lack solidity but Fifty Degree stresses a lot on quality.

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48 PrevieW Intex to transform South Asia into a textile and garment powerhouse

he 4th edition of Intex South Asia, to be held in Sri Lanka from November 1416, 2018, is the biggest and only international textiles sourcing show that brings together the entire supply-chain and value-chain for the textiles and apparel industry under one networking platform. A show for yarns, apparel fabrics, denim fabrics, clothing accessories and allied services, Intex focuses on transforming the South Asia region into a textile and garment powerhouse.

Creating stronger ties under a single platform Intex strengthens intra-regional trade, helping manufacturers and buyers take advantage of opportunities developing in the South Asia region by combining their strengths

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and joining hands to create stronger business ties under one trading platform. Buyers from over 21 countries comprising India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal, Dubai, UK, Italy, Australia, Austria, Spain, Germany, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Uganda and Nigeria, etc, will converge in Colombo for Intex South Asia to create new and strengthen South Asian and international business ties. Insights to move up the value chain Intex’s seminars and business forums provide market insights to support the industry’s efforts to upgrade, move up the value chain, better understand intra-regional trade, leverage better FX practices and help manufacturers gain a competitive edge.

Showcasing textile innovations and trendy collections In 2017, Intex South Asia presented a unique offering - ‘Fashion Fiesta’, an exclusive networking event along with a fashion extravaganza. Over 500 buyers and invitees from different regions and countries along with international exhibitors witnessed a fashion show which saw leading international Press Release Colombo, Sri Lanka companies like The Woolmark Co., Reliance Industries

Ltd., Taiwan Textile Federation, Mekotex from Pakistan, etc. showcase their textile innovations and trendy collections.

A venue to tackle visitor inﬂux The 4th edition of Intex South Asia exhibition will be held at the premier exhibition venue of Sri Lanka – BMICH. With its state of the art facilities, halls, convention rooms and halls the Bandaranaike Memorial International Hall is the preferred venue for trade exhibitions, conferences, award functions, business meetings, etc. With plenty of parking space available at the BMICH, the venue caters to any influx of dignitaries or visitors to any event or exhibition.

About the organiser Incorporated in 2004, Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. is headquartered in Mumbai, the commercial and financial hub of India and has a branch office in New Delhi and network offices in China, and Thailand. Worldex India Exhibition & Promotion Pvt. Ltd. is a trade promotion organisation that markets, represents and organises trade shows, seminars, conferences, buyer seller meets and inbound & outbound trade missions in India South-east Asia and European markets, through close industry connects and support from leading Government Agencies, Export Councils, Chambers of Commerce, Federations and Trade Associations.

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50 PrevieW

INTIMASIA 2019: The place to be, for all the titans of the intimate wear industry

he heart and soul of India’s pret, couture and high fashion, INTIMASIA 3.0 will be held in New Delhi from January 21-22on 21st and 22nd January 2019. Intimate wear is currently the fastest growing sector of the garment trade, and with Delhi at the heart and crux of the industry, it makes it the perfect intersection for both manufacturers and the trade to converge the wide exposure. Add to this India’s premier exhibition, at Pragati Maidan, assures that the trifecta of why INTIMASIA 3.0 is slated to become India’s signature intimate wear expo.

A path-breaking concept A lot of thought, research, groundwork and conceptualisation has gone into the planning of INTIMASIA 3.0. The event was conceived as path-breaking concept to bring in the best and brightest minds amongst both retailers and brands under one banner with a dynamic and clear vision: the elevation of the innerwear business to new heights, by seamlessly promoting fashion and ideation, while seeking to encourage and foster innovation and discussion. INTIMASIA isn’t just a platform to exhibit your wares, it is an eclectic mix of exhibition,

launches, networking, opportunities and a glandular platform for both retailers and brands to kindle in repartee as they connect, discover and flourish

The soul of the fashion industry As a 21st century metropolis, Delhi is at the heart and soul of the fashion industry. An unprecedented 30 per cent of fashion mongers (purveyors of the product) restock and refresh their intimate wear product portfolio every 1 to 3 months. On the consumer end, 52 per cent

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of the Delhi’s fashion and brand conscious populace refresh their intimates every 4 to 6 months. The city has 86.2 per cent literacy and 3.6 lakh per capita income making it the most brand aware and brand consuming city in India. INTIMASIA 2019 Delhi will feature some of the industry’s most creative, path breaking and sought after brands, delegates and visitors from the industry, design teams and symposiums and of course fashion shows that will take your breath away. The following are the salient features of what the event will hold: ● Two days of non-stop business interaction and networking at Pragati Maidan ● Opportunities to connect with the movers and shakers of the intimate wear industry ● Networking with over 3,000 retailers, distributors and agents from Northern Region

● Robust participation from intimate wear brands across India ● B2B interaction for exhibitors and visitors

A platform for retailers As a local level retailer, INTIMASIA 3.0 will offer a platform for the retailers to expand their reach to both suppliers and national and international level buyers, widening the reach and potential growth of your brand. As an intimate wear brand INTIMASIA 3.0 will offer a chance to showcase their products, check out potential partnerships and network with both manufacturers and raw materials suppliers.

The organisers INTIMASIA is being organised by one of the event industry’s most trusted and dynamic names; Peppermint Communications. Known as a creative force in the industry, the company has been conceptualising events with strategic inputs and positive outcomes for a while now. The event will be supported by Intimate Apparel Association of India (IAAI), the apex body striving to bring success and development to the intimate apparel industry of India.

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52 REVIEW

A 3-in-1 extravaganza at the The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week

round 175 Russian and foreign designers presented their new collections of clothing and accessories at the just concluded MercedesBenz Fashion Week Russia. These included KETIone, Dokuchaeva, 21Dot12, Arut MSCW, NVIDIA x Snezhana NYС, etc. Some of the shows during this season were held at Alena Akhmadullina – Museum of Moscow, Alexander Arutyunov – new location at Museum of Fashion, Gostiny Dvor.

Latest collections by Moscow designers at Futurum Moscow Futurum Moscow, held on October 12 in the Museum of Moscow, presented the latest collections by emerging Moscow designers’ brands and artists. The event included the shows Lumiér Garson by Jean Rudoff, Volchok, Otocyon, Hovanskie, Citizen_A, Odor, Daria Lukash, Seti, Maria Iliynishna, FactiveFace, Alkhanashvili, Be.Li.Ve, Dinara.Murasova., Not

Today, kruzhok, SVARKA, six one six. Vasilisa Vetrova, will present her show, too. A special private show by Slava Zaitsev showcased his historical project Heritage: collection of 1997, Russian Seasons in Paris, dedicated to Christian Dior’s New Look.

Pop-up shows The event also included pop-up Shops by Manege: six one six, Angela Le Bourgoise, Britanart, Dokuchaeva, Fakoshima, Intelligentsia, Lala Laguna, Leather Like Wood, Lumiér Garson by Jean Rudoff, Mad Daisy, Marusia Nizovtsova, Muus Lena Maksimova,

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N1 Jewelry, Neuroses Jewelry, Noel Concept, Oriori_Studio, Otocyon, Popmolly, Ranzel.Store, Rare, Scapegoat_404, Sniff, Spunky Studio, Tamta Shindelishvili, Varvara Zenina. etc. A short-term designer pop-up shop was opened from October 13-16, 2018 where 70 Russian designers showcased their clothing and accessories, gowns, sweatshirts, bags, and fashion jewelry. During the Pop-up Shop, public lectures were read by Igor Andreyev (ex-editor of Numero, founder of Inside project), Dmitry Stepanov (New Product Development Director, Yandex), and others. Trendy DJs and music bands

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PREVIEW

CITI Global Textiles Conclave 2018 to cover the entire textile value chain from “Farm to Fashion

onfederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), one of the leading industry chambers of the textile and clothing sector of India, completed 60 years of its operation in 2018. To celebrate this milestone, the association will organise the ‘CITI Global Textiles Conclave 2018’ from November 27-28 in New Delhi. The theme of the event will be “Disruptions and Innovations for Sustainable Growth”. The two-day conclave will include interactions with global T&C businessmen, buyer-seller meets, exhibitions, award function, launch of a special publication and reports covering the entire journey of the CITI and T&C industry. The event will not only offer the participants an opportunity to interact with a very select group of 800-1000 professionals from global textile & clothing industry, but will also provide them with a platform to brainstorm, share and gain key insights into the present and future of this resurging, dynamic sector. It will delineate the disruptive ideas, innovative technologies and best practices for a sustainable growth in the textile and clothing industry. The event will also include separate sessions with partner states and countries and senior government ofﬁcials.

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The sessions at the conclave will focus on: • Global & Indian T&A Industry: Disruptions and Innovations for Sustainable Growth • Changes in global consumption of Textiles and Apparel – far reaching implications • Sustaining growth for T&A manufacturers in a world of slowing economic growth • Domestic Indian Textiles and Apparel consumption – the big driver of future growth for India’s Textiles Industry • Stimulating Investments in Indian Textiles and Apparel Industry • Improving proﬁtability of India’s Textiles and Apparel industry • Giving a boost to Indian Textiles and Apparel Exports • Disrupting current paradigms, and reimagining textiles supply chains to make them future ready • Diminishing power of WTO in global T&A trade – the threat of increasing protectionism and emergence of new preferential trading blocks • India’s Fashion Apparel Market – exciting times ahead • Sustainability to improve work environment, reduce footprint and improve costs of manufacturing

• Opportunities for Technical Textiles in India

Presence of luminous dignitaries The spectacular event will witness the attendance of some of the most eminent personalities of India. Narendra Modi, Prime Minister of India will inaugurate the conclave while Venkaiah Naidu, Vice President will deliver the Valedictory Address. Suresh Prabhu, Union Minister of Commerce & Industry & Civil Aviation and Smriti Zubin Irani, Union Minister of Textiles will also attend these conclave alongwith senior government ofﬁcials, policy makers & trade experts from Ministries of Textiles, Finance, Commerce, Agriculture, Labour and related departments. The event will also be attended by top global speakers like Han Bekke, President, International Apparel Federation, Netherlands; Kihak Sung, Chairman, Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), Korea; Mark Green, Executive Vice President, PVH Far East; G. Gherzi, Managing Partner, Gherzi Textil Organisation AG; Prof. Thomas Gries, ITA, RWTH Aachen University; Md. Siddiqur Rahman, President, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and Dr. Christian Schindler, Director General, International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF).

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Review

created the atmosphere at Pop-up Shop: Misha Hillary, Arut Mscw, Zakharov Andrey, Abraam Ft. Mc Koshka, Shoo, and Sattva. At Pop-up Shop, the global bestseller This is not a f*cking street style book was presented by its author, Adam Katz Sinding, along with the book signing.

Spreading his fragrance A special guest of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia included Christophe Laudamiel, the creator of fragrance bestsellers Polo Blue for Men Ralph Lauren and Fierce Abercrombie &amp; Fitch, and other scents for the likes of Beyoncé and Helena Christensen, as well as well-known brands like Tom Ford, Burberry, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, etc.

Social campaign for pregnant models Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia alongwith the Ministry of Healthcare of Russia launched a social campaign 09.giveBIRTH to Fashion where 13 Russian fashion designers prepared special looks for pregnant models. Among these included Igor Gulyaev, Yasya Minochkina, Oksana Fedorova, Julia Dalakian, Angela Le Bourgeois, Malina Fashion, Lena Karnauhova, Yuliakosyak, Yakubowitch, LiaGorg, Zabegina, Naira Arutyunian, Mad Daisy.

I-Inclusive Mercedes-Benz presented the I-Inclusive show by Ksenia Bezuglova which focused in designing functional modern attire and accessories for people with disabilities.

DHL showcases capsule collection DHL pieces were showcased from the sensational capsule collection Vetements x DHL. These included branded polo, gowns, baseball caps, socks, and iconic yellow DHL T-shirts. The automotive catwalk star of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia was the the new S-class sedan. The title partner of the Fashion Week was Mercedes-Benz. Its MBFW Russia partners included IWC Schaffhausen, Harman and glo as the Official partners, L’Oréal Professionnel as the Official Stylist, Mary Kay as Official Make-Up Artists, DHL as Official logistics partner and Metropol as the Official hotel.

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54 revieW

Yarn Expo Autumn emerges as a one-stop sourcing point for its buyers

he Yarn Expo Autumn 2018, held concurrently with ITMA ASIA + CITME from October 15-17, 2018 at the National Exhibition Convention Centre in Shanghai attracted over 501 suppliers from 14 countries & regions, with new countries including France. This international diversification, as well as strong domestic numbers, demonstrated Yarn Expo’s increasing recognition as a top show in the industry. Almost 80 per cent of these exhibitors were repeat visitors who had attended even the past editions of the expo.

French and Italian products on display Organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT, the products displayed were more diverse than ever as exhibitors increasingly see China as the ideal market to introduce their latest innovations. For example, this year’s edition showcased premium French linen and advanced Italian chemical fibers. Yarn Expo is a platform that promises to gather all of the top suppliers under one roof for genuine buyer. Yarn Expo Autumn is Asia’s leading trade platform for the yarn and fiber industry, with quality suppliers from around the world showcasing natural and blended yarns including cotton, wool, flax, and man-made fibers and yarns, as well as specialty products

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including elastic, fancy and blended yarns. Last year’s Autumn Edition attracted 493 exhibitors from 13 countries and regions, and 17,185 trade buyers from 84 countries & regions.

Focus on fancy and specialty yarns With demand rising within the Chinese market for fancy and specialty yarns, suitable for stand-out fashion trends, the trade potential for this product category was high. Business for eco-friendly and natural yarns was also reported to remain steady this edition, reflected by the India Pavilion which increased in size by around 40 per cent this year.

Exhibitor feedback Many companies like the France-based Safilin use Yarn Expo as a platform for brand exposure. “Yarn Expo has many more quality

visitors in comparison to other fairs. We have had a very positive experience and will certainly return,” says Herve Denoyelle, Business Development Manager of the company. Neeraj Gupta, PT, Indo-Rama Synthetics Tbk, Indonesia believes the expo to be good platform for maintaining relationships with existing customers. “ Buyers from all over the world come to this exhibition,” he says. The India pavilion received good response this year with all of the leading Indian companies participating in the expo. Siddharth Rajagopal, Executive Director, Texprocil, organiser of the India Pavilion believes that its important to participate in the fair as “it reflects market demand and everybody comes here twice a year,” he says. .

Buyers’ opinions Extremely well –organised into product groups and countries, Yarn Expo helps buyers meet all their existing suppliers. “I can also meet new yarn suppliers. I think that this is the number one fair for yarn, and many of my peers agree,” says Andy Chu, World Knits Ltd. Felipe Bertani, AKA Shanghai Trading believes Yarn Expo to be a good platform for maintaining business relationships. “Yarn Expo is better in comparison to other fairs because it attracts all of the biggest suppliers,” he says. The expo thus plays a role as both a link and bond between its exhibitors and buyers.

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56 revieW TITAS underscores the primacy of need for ‘Global Smart Value Chain’

rganised by the Ministry of Economic Affairs’ Bureau of Foreign Trade and the Taiwan Textile Federation from October 16-18, 2018 in Taipei, the 22nd Edition TITAS 2018 “Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show” focused on smart textiles, sustainable environmental protection, and functional applications. It attracted participation from 12 countries entailing a total of 456 exhibitors in 1,003 booths. Many distinguished local and international luminaries from the industrial, government, academic, and research sectors attended the opening ceremony of the show. The participation included the trade bodies/ associations/ support service institutes viz. Industrial Technology Research Institute, Taiwan Textile Research Institute, Southern Taiwan Textile Research Alliance, Taiwan Technical Textile Association & other 15 textile related associations representing various segments of Taiwan’s textile chain.

Insightful seminars and presentations The show included a slew of activities such as insightful seminars, product presentations besides presentations on new fibers & technologies. The topics for these seminar included ‘The Evolution Tendency Of Smart Textiles’, ‘Japanese Functional Finishing Mark’, ‘ISKO Responsible Innovation Approach’, ZDHC & Functional Testing Of Textile Products & latest trend of innovative textiles to name a few. In addition, around 1,000 one-on-one business meetings were held between show exhibitors and over 100 invited representatives from international brands/ retailers. TTF in collaboration with the Taipei Sewing Machine Association (TSMA) presented the latest developments in smart manufacturing including automatic sewing machines & smart

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sewing systems and solutions.

Pavilion for smart textiles Titas in its 22nd year of its edition underscored the primacy of need for ‘Global Smart Value Chain’ besides maintaining the core products of functional, sustainable side of the business. Therefore in order to offer a more comprehensive one-stop service to both exhibitors & attendees, in collaboration with Taipei Sewing Machine Association (TSMA), this year TTF has also invited TSMA members to present the latest development in smart manufacturing including automatic sewing machines and smart sewing systems & solutions.

Smart products on display Up on the display were products and solutions like smart thermal clothes integrating temperature control and positioning functions, textiles with temperature control and warning feature, color measurement technology breaking through traditional thinking to detect miniscule color differences software based solutions adopting IT, AI and RFID technologies.Textile technologies combining isolated microcontrollers with yarns & fibers enhanced the applications of multi-functional textiles. LED arrays displayed clothes using

ESTM (Embedded smart textile module) to present a new garment image marrying art and tech to the best of it.

State support for the event Government support for the industry was indicated with the presence of Mei-Hua Wang, MOEA Deputy Minister who made a special appearance at the opening ceremony. Among other special guests who attended the show included Jang-Hwa Leu, Director General of Industrial Development Bureau, MOEA; YungJan Chan, 2018 women’s Tennis Association world rankings number one player in women’s doubles alongwith her sister/ partner Hao-Ching Chan who was a gold medalist of women’s tennis competitions at the 2014 Asian games in Incheon; Douglas Hsu; Honorable Chairman, TTF and Cheng- Tien Chan, Chairman, TTF.

International presence Foreign interest in the exhibition was indicated with the presence of the Federation of Indian Chambers Of Commerce & Industry (FICCI) led a group of 10 exhibitors. A visiting delegation organised by VITAS, Vietnam attended TITAS to seek further co-operation with Taiwan’s textile enterprises, Southern Taiwan Textile Research Alliance.

11/15/2018 12:42:12 AM

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11/15/2018 12:42:13 AM

58 revieW Interfilere Shanghai 2018: The meeting point of all global players in the lingerie and swimwear industry

isitor flow remained steady and strong at Interfilere Shanghai 2017, while the quality, as endorsed by the suppliers, was once again ensured at its premium level where all the attendees had been validated as industry professionals. In the 14 edition of Interfilere Shanghai held from September 27-28, 2018, 75 per cent of the visitors are from China and 25 per cent goes to the rest of the world which Japan, Korea, USA, Indonesia and Spain registered increases in number.

Delivering values to the audience Inspired by the movie Black Panther, the Prototype Fashion Show presented a selection of finished products around the theme Tribal

Awarding the experts With the belief that young talents will significantly contribute to the future of our industry, Interfiliere Shanghai launched the very first edition of Young Label Awards dedicated to new industry forces, with the wish to assist them in going a step further by linking with industry experts. The 5th Interfeel’Awards , which recognized professionals of the intimates, swimwear and sportswear industry, rewarded the knowhow and collections of 6 Interfiliere Shanghai exhibitors. Tech, articulating to the visitors the technology, motifs and substantial elements engraved in each showpiece. Interfiliere Shanghai in collaboration with Taobao iFashion presented the GenZ Fashion Show on Sept 26, featuring 5 iFashion lingerie and loungewear brands - Miss Curiosity, Ubras, Miss Kiss, PJM and Six Rabbit. By connecting digital world with real life experience, the fashion show facilitated the communication between brands and Gen Z consumers, supported brands in delivering their strong identities and values to the audiences.

Optimising the resources With inspirations from the world as a global village, and handpicked spectacular pieces of craftsmanship from the exhibitors, the Trend Forum encouraged the audience to be creative and indulge in a healthy life environment where a balance of comfort & aesthetics, culture & wellness could be reached. The Innovation Forum curated by the French Knitwear and Lingerie Federation provided the visitors with a thought-provoking experience

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to rethink the textile clothing industry from a sustainability perspective, with reduce, reuse and recycle as pillars. The exhibits enlightened the industry players to optimise the environmental impact whilst maintaining the product performance through various ecoapproaches.

A thought-provoking experience Specialists from Concepts Paris, WGSN, Carlin Creative Trend Bureau and Daxue respectively shared their insights on the upcoming body fashion trends and helped the audiences to navigate towards new markets. On the other hand, experts from Redress and Support Ltd dived deep into the intersection of fashion and sustainability, motivating the audiences to undress wastes issues and explore circularity for fabrics and product design. Eurovet signed a partnership agreement with Jinjiang Swimwear Industry Association (JJSIA) during a press conference. Marie Laure BELLON, CEO of Eurovet Group stated the vision of the collaboration: “Interfiliere Shanghai 2018 is only a start, the first stone of our cooperation, and today we are signing with the Association an agreement, that will be the framework of a more global cooperation between us. She also emphasised: “With China being the largest market in the world, swimwear will experience exponential growth in the coming years, and associations such as JJSIA will play an important role in this industry.”

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60 AWARDS

Texprocil lauds India’s top exporters; hails Indian ranking in Ease of Doing Business survey The Texprocil Annual Export Awards Function for the year 2017-18 was held on November 3, 2018 in Mumbai, wherein the Union Minister of Textiles, Smriti Zubin Irani was the Chief Guest

Manomay Tex India was awarded with TEXPROCIL Export Award 2017-2018 in the Gold Plaque for the Highest Exports of ‘Denim Fabrics’ under Category I. The company is engaged in manufacturing and sale of denim fabrics in domestic and international markets having an integrated manufacturing unit based in Rajasthan. It is known and identiﬁed in textile industry by the brand name ‘Manomay’.

TEXPROCIL hails Indian ranking in World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business ratings

EXPROCIL, established in 1954, is a Government of India sponsored Export Promotion Council, dedicated to promotion of exports. The company operates in two major business segments: textiles and paper with its manufacturing facilities located in Punjab and Madhya Pradesh. It caters to a customer base of over 100 countries across the globe.

Trident awarded for its internationally accepted quality standards Trident Ltd has been conferred with TEXPROCIL Export Awards 2017-2018 in the categories of: 1. Gold Trophy for the Second Highest

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Global Exports (overall) 2. Silver Trophy for the Second Highest Exports of ‘Terry Towels’ under Category III 3. Silver Trophy for the Second Highest Exports Of ‘Bed Linen/Bed Sheets/Quilts’ under category II 4. Gold Plaque for the Highest Exports of ‘Yarn - Counts 51s & above’ under Category I The award recognised Trident’s achievement in meeting internationally accepted quality standards and adopting best industry practices. The company has bagged over 20 awards since 2005.Its exports have amounted to more than Rs 2,250 crore in the FY 2017-18.

Manomay Tex India wins emerges as the highest exporter of denim fabrics

The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL) has termed India’s jump in the World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business rankings as a proud moment. India’s rank in the Ease of Doing Business 2019 survey climbed 23 places to 77 among 190 countries surveyed, making it the only country to rank among the top 10 improvers for the second consecutive year. India stood 142nd in the Ease of Doing Business ranking when the present National Democratic Alliance (NDA) government came to power in 2014. India has registered huge improvement in six out of the 10 indicators and has moved closer to international best. The biggest improvements have been in the indicators related to ‘construction permits’, in which India’s ranking improved by 129 points, and ‘trading across borders’, in which it rose by 66 points. Areas where the country still needs to improve are starting of business, in which the country ranked 137, paying taxes and enforcement of contracts. (RKS)

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62 aWards

Harihar Polyfibers from Grasim wins Golden Peacock Award for Sustainability 2018

he Harihar Polyfibers Unit of Grasim Industries, a flagship company of USD 44.3 billion Aditya Birla Group has won the Prestigious ‘Golden Peacock Award for Sustainability 2018’ at the “18th Annual London Global Convention on Corporate Governance & Sustainability” and ‘Global Business Meet.’

Leadership across diverse segments Grasim Industries Ltd is the flagship company of the US$ 44.3 billion Aditya Birla Group. Beginning in 1947 with textiles

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manufacturing in India, the company today is a leading global player in diverse segments. It is the premium player in Viscose Staple Fibre, among the largest chemicals players (Chlor-Alkali), the world’s 4th largest cement producer and among the top diversified financial services (NBFC, asset management and life insurance) company in India. The Harihar Polyfibers Unit of Grasim, which was accorded with this distinction, produces rayon grade pulp. The unit began its operations with an initial capacity of 32 KTPA in 1972-73; the plant today produces 70 KTPA of pulp a year from eucalyptus wood. About 90 per cent of its energy used is derived from renewable resources and chemical recovery is around 98 percent.

Consistent delivery of best-in-class environmental performance Speaking on the occasion, Dilip Gaur, Managing Director, Grasim Industries said, “The Golden Peacock Award is a testament to our vision to build sustainable businesses, capable of consistently delivering best in class environmental performance, underpinned by responsible stewardship philosophy.” The Golden Peacock Award is well recognised. This year Justice (Dr.) ArijitPasayat, former Judge, Supreme Court of India, chaired the panel of judges. “We are proud of being the recipient of this coveted award. It is indeed an important milestone in our Sustainability Journey”, said Ajay Sardana, Chief Sustainability Officer of Pulp & Fibre Business of Grasim Industries Ltd.

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11/15/2018 12:42:24 AM

64 Business neWs holding up to a maximum of 29.99 per cent from 16.25 per cent currently, subscribing for between 63.3 million and 69.9 million shares at a price of 15p each. This will raised between GBP9.5 million to GBP10.5 million for Koovs. This additional investment and commitment from FLFL underlines the tremendous opportunity to leverage the strategic partnership of Koovs and ensure that it is the aspirational first choice online western fashion destination for India’s young popular. The partnership will significantly benefit its customers, partners and shareholders. Future Lifestyle operates over 400 stores in India, with over six million square feet of retail space, and is part of Future Group, a leading consumer, retail and services company in India.

Future Lifestyle to acquire Pepe Jeans India

ishore Biyani-led Future Lifestyle is in advanced stages of negotiations with Pepe Jeans to acquire its local arm and merge with its own Lee Cooper portfolio to create one of the country’s biggest casual wear. Pepe Jeans India is a fully owned subsidiary of Barcelona-based Pepe Jeans Group, which counts LVMH-owned L Catterton and Lebanese investment firm M1Group as majority shareholders. In May this year, L Catterton bought a 10 per cent stake in Future Lifestyle that owns department store formats including Central and Brand Factory, and more than a dozen brands including Indigo Nation and Lee Cooper. Pepe operates more than 200 branded

Amazon may buy Future Retail stake

Investors and traders have been steadily increasing trades in Future Retail shares. They are optimistic of a big payday, as the company is moving toward selling a 15 per cent stake to online marketplace major Amazon. Amazon, which just closed a deal along with private equity firm Samara Capital to acquire Aditya Birla Retail’s food and grocery retail chain More, has been on an overdrive to increase not only its offline retail footprint, but

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outlets in India — most of them being franchisee run. In February 2015, Pepe Jeans and Hackett London — both part of the Pepe Jeans Group — were bought by L Catterton and M1 from Torreal Funds, Arta Capital and L Capital Europe.

also the reach of grocery service, an area it believes would be its key growth driver. Trading interest in the shares of Future Retail has seen a few spikes in the current financial year, indicating a rise in number of investors. The first spike was visible in May. More than a million shares were traded. The interest was sustained in June when 0.8 million shares were traded. After a hiatus in July, the investors again showed an interest in the stock in August, and September looks set to be the best month of the year as far as interest in Future Retail is concerned. With a week of trading left in the month, over a million shares have been traded. The high interest can be seen even though the share price has remained volatile this month.

Future Lifestyle to increase investment in Koovs

Future Lifestyle Fashions will raise its investment in London-listed strategic partner Koovs PLC. Future Lifestyle will take its

Arvind to expand textile business with fresh investments

Arvind will invest Rs 500 crores every year for the next five years to expand its textile business. The investments would be mainly for large-scale garmenting, with the company planning to convert at least 50 per cent of its fabrics into garments. Arvind is a diversified conglomerate with interests ranging from textiles to retail and real estate. At present, Arvind converts only ten per cent of its total fabrics produced into garments. The investments will also be used for the company’s foray into performance and functional clothing (active wear) and synthetics, and for scaling up its branded textiles and technical textiles businesses. The company intends to create five hubs. Of this, four will be in India — Jharkhand, Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Bangalore — and one in Ethiopia. Each hub will employ 5000 to 10,000 workers. At present, the company has just one hub — in Bangalore — employing 10,000 workers. As part of its demerger plan, the listed entity Arvind will be split into Arvind, Arvind Fashions and Anup Engineering. These companies will be demerged by the first or the second week of September, and then delisted within 45 or 60 days. In the interim, Arvind would be the only listed company.

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66 Business NEWS Puma looks at increasing sourcing from India

uma is in the process of increasing its sourcing from India and adding new vendors. Currently working with eight apparel manufacturers in the country, the company is looking for vendors who are experts in producing products like polo tees and jackets. These garment manufacturers are expected to be very quality-conscious and believe in transparency. Puma wants vendors who are compliant and at the same time highly efficient. They also have to be very technology-oriented, and think and work for the long-term perspective. The company is looking for six new vendors (two vendors in each major product

Amazon launches program to boost brand portfolio and sales

E-commerce major Amazon India has launched a new programme called ‘Select’

category). These expansion plans are mainly for filling sourcing needs of overseas stores. In the last one year, Puma’s sourcing from India has already seen four times growth. Now the target is to further increase it by four more times within the next three years. Since the biggest challenge in India is the non-availability of a good polyester fabric base, Puma currently sources almost 60 per cent of the manmade fiber it needs from China. The company feels its business can grow tremendously in India if the fabric area can be managed. India presents great possibilities in terms of workmanship and overall garment appeal.

businesses on Amazon and help them achieve their business aspirations. Amazon is working with fashion brands like Miss Chase, Soul Fit, Skin Elements, Zink London and others under the select programme. The launch of this programme comes days ahead of Amazon India’s flagship sale event, ‘Great Indian Festival’, which will be held from October 10 to 15.

Indian vendors accuse Chinese e-commerce sites of flouting FDI norms

for brands selling on its platform to help them build their portfolio and boost sales. The e-commerce company will develop longterm relationships with brands selling on their platform through the program and will provide support to emerging brands across services. The company aims to help across a brands’ value chain, from generating assortment insights, to providing quick-turnaround logistics solutions, and driving traffic to their products. The focus of the initiative is to develop long-term relationships with brands to help them generate measurable value for their

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Indian vendors on several ecommerce marketplaces have alleged Chinese sites are flouting the country’s regulations, which does now allow foreign direct investment (FDI) in

multibrand retail. All India Online Vendors Association (AIOVA), which represents 3,500 Indian members that sell across platforms, had also written to the consumer affairs ministry earlier to look into the operations of Chinese ecommerce websites. As the app tracking firm App Annie reveals, Chinese fashion firms like Shein, Romwe and ClubFactory—which figure among the top 10 most downloaded apps,— plan to launch mega offers to counter other e-commerce firms like Myntra, Jabong, Ajio, etc. ClubFactory, which recently roped in Ranveer Singh and Manushi Chhillar as brand ambassadors, plans to launch its biggest sale called the ‘Club Diwali Sale’ from October 1014, 2018. These sales will offer a free iPhone to all those placing orders during the festive period. Another Chinese online fashion firm, Romwe, has started its pre-Dussehra sales and is expected to roll out more discounts in phases. Targeting young buyers, these Chinese firms focus on trendy and reasonably priced products as their unique selling proposition. Such initiatives by these Chinese ecommerce sites are likely to impact their Indian rivals.

Walmart to increase private labels’ share by 10 per cent

Walmart India, which runs 22 Best Price wholesale stores since its second entry into the country in 2009, is planning to increase the share of its private labels to 10 per cent by next year. The company opened its 22nd store in Ludhiana late last month. It will open 50 stores by 2025. Out of these, 30 stores will be added by December 2019. According to government filing, Walmart India closed fiscal 2017 with a topline of Rs 3,609 crore, up around 14 per cent. Its revenue from private labels is 6-7 per cent from our two brands--Right Buy and Member’s Mark, wherein the first is the cheaper than the other. The company hopes to increase this to 10 per cent by 2019. Walmart also expects an increase in its private label sales as the company is planning to cross-sell these brands on Flipkart, its online marketplace subsidiary. In the biggest M&A deal, the world’s largest retailed Walmart had bought 77 per cent of the homegrown online marketplace Flipkart for over USD 16 billion in August.

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68 Fashion Post Dongre does western bridal gowns

Dongre debuted her first-ever collection of western bridal gowns called One World. She is presenting a limited edition collection of 25 bespoke bridal gowns at New York Bridal Week. The line draws inspiration from traditional Indian handcrafts and western silhouettes, creating a collection that is the best of both worlds. It caters to brides who want to have a white wedding as well as a traditional Indian wedding. A traditional Indian bride is dressed in red and her outfit is elaborately embellished with hand embroidery techniques that date back thousands of years. On the other hand, an American bride is dressed in white with filigree lace, sheer tulle, and a beautiful veil. The collection is a marriage of cultures where contemporary western silhouettes meet classic

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