Inside Fashion Vol 19 No.1 by InsideFashion

VOL 19 NO. 1

INNERWEAR SPECIAL

Bodycare Creations

Understanding what women want TRIUMPH COVER_JAN-2019.indd 3

ULTIMO

CLOVIA

PRETTYSECRETS

GROVERSONS 19/1/2019 1:27:30 PM

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CONTENT

VOL 19 NO. 1

INNERWEAR SPECIAL

Bodycare Creations

Understanding what women want TRIUMPH

ULTIMO

CLOVIA

PRETTYSECRETS

GROVERSONS

Contents VOL.19 NO. 1

06 OVERVIEW 10 RETAIL 12 CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR 18 COVER STORY 24 IF EXCLUSIVE 35 IF INSIGHT 36 TRENDS & STYLES 39 PREVIEW

DFU PUBLICATIONS Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO - Sanjay Chawla

Advisor

Director - Salil Chawla

Customer Relations - Sanchita Banerjee Team Bipasha Bhattacharya

Mangaging Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva VP-Corporate Communications - Shraboni Mukherjee Editorial

- Narayan Subramaniam Shubhangi Bidwe

Editorial Asst. - Ranjit Kaur Special Correspondent - Ajanta Ganguly Correspondent - Ajay Kumar Goswami Prerna Sharma Sales Team

- Upasana Chhabra

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- T. K. Sengupta

Production & Admn. - Dinesh Poojary Sumit Masand Art Director Graphic Designer

- Sanjeev D. Sonavane - Arun

MUMBAI OFFICE: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181, 2877 2282, 3001 4700 e-mail: dfuif@yahoo.co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com DEHLI OFFICE: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg: New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639 e-mail: salildfu@gmail.com, salil@dfupublications.com All reproductions rights reserved. Owned & published by: Sanjay Chawla and printed by him at DFU printing division. Published and Edited by Sanjay Chawla at: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai 400 062.

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5 JIGNA ENERPRISES 124, Atlantic Plaza, Off. Bhavani SHankar Road, Near Tilak Bhavan, Dadar (W), Mumbai 400028 ( INDIA) www.sukanyaindia.in customercare@sukanyaindia.in 022-24307078/24304505

Owner

Babubhai Ahir 9821355102

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OVERVIEW

Women’s innerwear comes out of the closet Women’s innerwear has evolved from being basic day-to-day essential to stylish essentials. With women becoming more conscious and willing to spend, the innerwear market has seen double digit growth, which is likely to continue in the future, write Ajanta Ganguly & Ajay Goswami

aving rapidly evolved from a basic day-to-day essential into inner fashion wear with greater emphasis on styling and comfort, women’s inner wear has shaped itself differently within a decade. As the first layer of clothing worn on the body and like her second skin, fashionable lingerie that fits snugly and oozes comfort along with the oomph factor is what is trending over the last few seasons. The modern Indian woman’s openness to indulge in premium innerwear and her sense of style slowly filtering from outerwear into innerwear has made all the difference. It is no longer enough for modern urban woman to

• Innerwear has been one of the fastest growing categories in last few decades • Innerwear category is estimated at Rs 28,781 crore • It accounted for 10 per cent of total apparel market in 2017 • Getting the right fit is a priority among brands • There is a shift from basic functional or occasion-led buying to emotional buying make do with basic innerwear as her intimate inner sense of style becomes as important as her outer self which the world sees. As one of the fastest growing categories in last few decades, the innerwear category,

currently estimated at Rs 28,781 crore, accounted for 10 per cent of the total apparel market in 2017. Growing consistently, the women’s innerwear segment was estimated to be worth Rs 18,454 crore in 2017 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 12 per cent over the next decade to reach Rs 56,364 crore by 2027.

“Paris Beauty is an economy brand that targets the masses .We also have Sunaina, a low price brand and focuses in providing fashion at affordable prices with the target market being the low income group. Groversons has been evolving products, fabrics, styling with time, hence is growing in the innerwear segment for over six decades.”

Siddharth Grover Director, Groversons

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OVERVIEW Great market possibilities for trendy innerwear

“Lack of knowledge about size and fits makes it difficult for a client to choose the perfect size and design. Clovia has come up with a breakthrough technology and has created a tool called the ‘Fit Test’ to solve this fundamental problem. We did extensive research and developed this test that asks a woman five questions about her body type and recommends the right bra. We have a high customer satisfaction score. The tool has been used/attempted over 150,000 times.”

Neha Kant Co-Founder and CRO, Clovia

The lingerie market in India can be categorized broadly into five segments: superpremium (luxury), premium, mass-premium, economy and mass. The majority share is the economy & mass-premium segments. Until a few years back, the industry was dominated by unbranded and unorganized regional players (especially in the mass and economy segments) with a few home grown and International players in the premium and super-premium categories. Recent consumer trends show that price is not the most important criteria anymore for this segment as look-good, feel-good factor is the most important. “At PrettySecrets we believe your everyday lingerie should not be boring. Your innerwear is the foundation garment of outerwear. Good quality stylish lingerie does not have to be expensive or uncomfortable. Based on that philosophy, we combine fashion with comfort to provide products that are high on functionality and comfort yet trendy and uncompromising on style, burst of colours and unique prints. We are the first lingerie brand in India to launch a celebrity designed collection and have collaborated with Anusha Dandekar for this,”says Prakash Ramanna,Vice President (Trade & LFS) of PrettySecrets . Ramanna points out, their miracle fit collection provides an unique fit for women and gives high support without any discomfort. “This season we are re-introducing this collection with exciting new technology. The beauty of miracle fit lies in the smooth seamless construction of this product which gives a comfortable fit without digging into the skin. The moulded construction gives a natural lift and avoids side-bulges which is an unique feature in our top selling product,” he adds. Rising disposable incomes with rapid economic growth with far more working women has led to a new middle class generation who are brand conscious and able and ready to experiment with fashion and style. This has led to more sales volume not only in outerwear but also innerwear. Recent consumer trends have shown a shift from basic functional or occasion led buying to emotional buying across all apparel segments. Innerwear today makes a big difference to a woman’s wardrobe as she wants to feel confident and beautiful both inside and out.

Bold product innovations is the key The sudden emergence of online retail channels has bolstered sales of premium innerwear in India as all top international brands are available even to women in Tier I and II cities. They are the key buyers as they are not comfortable with buying innerwear at smaller malls and local stores in their towns and also want to check out the variety and choice available online. While in shopping malls around metros, the scenario in the lingerie segment has totally changed. Uniquely

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“At PrettySecrets we believe your everyday lingerie should not be boring. Your innerwear is the foundation garment of outerwear. Good quality stylish lingerie does not have to be expensive or uncomfortable. Based on that philosophy, we combine fashion with comfort to provide products that are high on functionality and comfort yet trendy and uncompromising on style, burst of colours and unique prints. We are the first lingerie brand in India to launch a celebrity designed collection and have collaborated with Anusha Dandekar for this.”

Prakash Ramanna Vice President (Trade & LFS), PrettySecrets

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OVERVIEW outerwear garments are trending this season. Growing technological additions made to bras such as dotted acu-pressure padding in bras which regulates blood flow in the body are popular. Front open bras and reversible bras and other easy to wear designs are also flying off the shelves in upmarket stores.

Basic never goes out of style

displayed in a prominent section of women’s wear department there are bras from leading brands along with trial rooms with brand sales advisors helping customers with cup and style sizes. A wide variety of other innerwear such as tummy control panties, thigh shaper and body shapers that cuts out the bulges and give a flattering silhouette are among the bestsellers of this segment. “Lack of knowledge about size and fits makes it difficult for a client to choose the perfect size and design. Clovia has come up with a breakthrough technology and has created a tool called the ‘Fit Test’ to solve this fundamental problem. We did extensive research and developed this test that ask a woman five questions about her body type and recommends the right bra. We have a high customer satisfaction score. The tool has been used/attempted over 150,000 times. At Clovia, every bra goes through a rigorous fit-test on different Indian body-types before being launched. Extensive trials and testing is done to get the right bra fit – adjustments are done for shape and stretchability of fabric, and cup shape. We have introduced guidelines on breast shape and separation, to help customers make the right fit choice,” explains Neha Kant, Co-Founder and CRO of Clovia. However, be it western wear or ethnic wear, Indian women are slowly realizing that the right lingerie can make all a difference about feeling confident and looking good. Although the basic everyday wear products sell best, the quick unplanned splurge on an expensive luxury lingerie is now rather the rule than exception. Young women like to show off their bodies when it is at its best by wearing well-fitting, alluring and trendy lingerie. And as women age and put on weight, investing in innerwear of premium labels that promise a good fit while cutting out the flab becomes as important as outerwear. Bra and bralette sets with special design features at the back and on the sides, such as caged bras, lace wing/band bralettes used with

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“MAS Brands, India launched Ultimo’s luxurious lingerie shapewear collection recently. The collection best defined as a timeless luxury and heritage combined with modern techniques to make women of different shapes and sizes feel beautiful inside, out. The Ultimo shapewear provides customers three-cutting-edge shape wear designs targeting different areas. The tummy control panty, thigh shaper and waist cincher are strategically designed to seamlessly and effortlessly shape the body and can be worn comfortably for 8 hours continuously. Available in black and beige tones, the shape wear can be worn underneath trousers, dresses and skirts.”

Smita Murarka Head of Marketing & Ecommerce, Ultimo (Amante)

The Indian consumer’s wardrobe choices have evolved and they are seeking durable everyday wear lingerie while also aspiring for international quality and styling. Majority of consumer’s needs are still for everyday and basic use, although they are getting educated to understand the play lingerie has on their confidence. While Indian consumers are price conscious, they are also seeking value and are willing to pay a premium for trust and quality that reputed brands offer. There are lot of consumers who are aspirational but genuinely can’t afford buying a premium product so many smaller domestic players replicate style trends of the premium brands in their own collections. “Groversons is the first lingerie company in India to get ISO9001:2008 certification. The flagship brand of the group is also the oldest lingerie brand in the country, this brand has a huge variety of products from 100 per cent cotton brasiers to knitted and fasion bras, slips, camisoles, panties. Paris Beauty is an economy brand that targets the masses .We also have Sunaina, a low price brand and focuses in providing fashion at affordable prices with the target market being the low income group. Groversons has been evolving products, fabrics, styling with time, hence is growing in the innerwear segment for over six decades. Our core products are still the same but innovations have come and we have evolved with time. We are not a fashion focused brand but more of everyday comfort wear, although we do have a fashion range also in response to changing consumers needs,” points out Siddharth Grover, Director, Groversons. A large part of the Indian innerwear market is dominated by the low, economy and midmarket segment offerings from domestic suppliers. With the entry of foreign brands, the dynamics of Indian innerwear market has started to change but the basic segment will always overrule as women primarily look for the comfort factor in a hot and humid country. Everyday wear such as comfortable cotton panties and bras in traditional beiges, blacks and whites will never go out of style even though the modern urban women may have started experimenting with intimate wear in the form of luxury laces, different colors, vivid patterns and revealing cuts.

Style trends this season The premium domestic and international brands have redefined the lingerie market by going beyond standard fits, colours and sizes based on their customers’ evolving wardrobes. Occasion specific products like seamless bras,

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9 strapless bras, padded bras, bralettes along with a rising demand for functionality based women’s innerwear like shapewear and tummy tuckers for women desiring a slimmer look is catching on. Non-wired comfortable bra’s for relaxation as well as sports bras suitable for the gym and other physical activities are other bestsellers of this segment. ‘‘MAS Brands, India launched Ultimo’s luxurious lingerie shapewear collection recently. The collection best defined as a timeless luxury and heritage combined with modern techniques to make women of different shapes and sizes feel beautiful inside, out. The Ultimo shapewear provides customers with three-cutting-edge shape wear designs targeting different areas. The tummy control panty, thigh shaper and waist cincher are strategically designed to seamlessly and effortlessly shape the body and can be worn comfortably for 8 hours continuously. Available in black and beige tones, the shape wear can be worn underneath trousers, dresses and skirts,” says Smita Murarka, Head of Marketing & Ecommerce, Ultimo (Amante). Most brands have a diverse portfolio of lingerie for different types of outfits and for every stage of a woman’s life. These range from beginner bras that offer low to medium support for the years between a girl and a woman, to T-shirt bras and comfortable cotton bras for everyday wear, to luxurious lace lingerie for weddings and special occasions. The lingerie industry in India does not really focus on a particular color palette for every season It is more about what’s trending in terms of prints, silhouettes and colors. In bras, bright colors are always welcomed alongside the all-time favourites of black, white and skin. “We have many kinds that include the padded wired bras and he nonpadded underwired ones. There are some

push-up bras that include the ‘Plunge’ push-up bar that adds one cup size and can been worn under outfits with deep V neckline, the ‘Cotton Padded Balconette’ push-up bra which gives a lift under the bust and a rounded look at the top as well as the push-up bra with printed lace on the wings which is available with a

matching panty to wear as a co-ordinated set. Also available are the T-shirt bras that are 3/4th coverage underwired bra in a pretty print with cotton padding adds extra comfort and allows it to be worn under a see – through top, T-shirt or shirt,” says Grishma Patil, Director, Candour London.

“We have many kinds that include the padded wired bras and the nonpadded underwired ones. There are some push-up bras that include the ‘Plunge’ push-up bar that adds one cup size and can be worn under outfits with deep V neckline, the ‘Cotton Padded Balconette’ push-up bra which gives a lift under the bust and a rounded look at the top as well as the push-up bra with printed lace on the wings which is available with a matching panty to wear as a coordinated set.”

Grishma Patil, Director, Candour London

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10 RETAIL

Omni-channel emerges the most preferred strategy for brands, customers The inﬂux of international brands has changed the women’s lingerie market in India. With increased brand play omni-channel retail has gained traction. Brands now rely on innovation and technology to gain market share, ﬁnd out Ajay Goswami & Shubhangi Bidwe

ndian lingerie market has undergone a transformation over the past few years. Innovation and technology has influenced lingerie making. “Growing number of working women, changing fashion trends, the increased awareness about better fits, brands, colors, quality, styling, higher per capita income, rising media exposure and entry of large number of international brands have given the industry a new face,” says Siddharth Grover, Director, Groversons. “There has been unprecedented growth in awareness in the last few years both in terms of sizing and hygiene. The Indian lingerie market is currently valued at $3bn (Rs 18,000 cr). However, the current market is nascent and even top 10 brands put together do not address eight per cent of the overall market,” explains Neha Kant, Co-Founder and CRO, Clovia.

Moving towards an organised market

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• Entry of international brands has given the lingerie industry a new face • Indian lingerie market is currently valued at $3bn (Rs 18,000 cr) • Buyer’s moving away from functional need-based purchase to emotional need-based purchase • Lingerie as a fashion statement and a ‘feel-good factor’ • Retail is a combination of online and ofﬂine for brands • As online continues to grow profitably, ofﬂine helps brands capture complementary user base Jennifer Kapasi, Head of Operations (India), Triumph points out, earlier the industry was dominated by unbranded and unorganised regional players (especially in the mass and economy segments) with a few homegrown and international players in the premium and

super-premium categories. “This is slowly changing with the influx of international brands in the premium and super-premium segments. This is no wonder as the two segments are growing between 20-25 per cent, which is more than the entire lingerie sector growth of

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RETAIL

“Online retailing of lingerie has especially empowered people from small towns and villages to make an informed choice of intimate apparel. Many women in these towns aspire to buy fashionable lingerie especially brides- to-be who invest much more in pre-marriage lingerie shopping than several metros.”

Siddharth Grover Director, Groversons 15 per cent CGAR,” she says. “With organised retail paving the way and making in-roads into untapped geographical markets, this trend will continue,” she adds.

Emotions driving purchase decisions Buyer’s today are moving away from functional need-based purchase to a more emotional need-based purchase. Lingerie as a fashion statement and a ‘feel-good factor’ is gaining significance. It is seen as an extension of a woman’s personality and desires. As Kant says. “The overall affinity towards brands is fast increasing, more so towards fast fashion. Media awareness towards fashion and health is driving customers to demand more. There have been considerable improvements in the lingerie market in recent years in terms of choice and availability, both online and offline.”

Color, style innovations bring out a woman’s sensuality A lot of overtly feminine tones have taken over the market these days. Companies are constantly bringing out innovative lingerie collections that give woman a chance to look exotic. “Intricate detailing can be seen alongwith decorative seams to bring out a woman’s sensuality. Fabrics like Italian silks, satins, chiffons, French and Italian laces are extremely popular these days. The popularity of lingerie boutiques in shopping malls has abolished the stigma of buying and wearing lingerie. Times are changing and young women

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are looking for bright colors and different styles in their lingerie,” notes Grover. “There have been considerable improvements in recent years in terms of choice and availability, both online and offline. The lingerie market has gained momentum because of two things: an increase in working women and an increase in disposable income. With the rise in working women, their preferences have changed and they have found a way to pamper themselves. This rise in working women, leading to a rise in disposable income has resulted in an increase in consumer spending. Overall both this parameters have let the marketplace become profitable,” adds Kant.

Brands adopt omni-channel strategy Brands today can no longer restrict themselves to a single or limited number of channels as they will miss out on providing their users with a seamless brand experience they deserve and desire, and thereby the opportunity to make a sale “Online and offline behaviors of customers feed into each other, affecting their overall customer journey. According to Econsultancy, two in five online searchers decide to purchase after being influenced by an offline channel,” adds Kant. The brand is the front-runner in capturing the customer mindshare. It has the team, the mix, the ethics, the product, and the head start to be the leader in this space. The brand currently generates around 15 per cent of its revenue from offline channels and expects the revenue to witness a 50 per cent growth in the current financial year. “We get over 55 per cent of our total online sales through our own website which will maintain its share. The rest comes from online marketplaces such as

Amazon, Myntra etc,” adds Kant. Wider choice, secure payment gateways and flexible return policies are luring shoppers to online retail. Lingerie e-tailers like Mylace, Zivame, Cilory, and StrapsAndStrings, have

“The overall affinity towards brands is fast increasing, more so towards fast fashion. Media awareness towards fashion and health is driving customers to demand more. There have been considerable improvements in the lingerie market in recent years in terms of choice and availability, both online and offline.”

Neha Kant Co-Founder and CRO, Clovia

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12 RETAIL complementary user base, while continuing to build the brand. “The unprecedented traction at our exclusive stores has led us to scale them faster than we initially anticipated,” adds Kant. The brand launched offline stores last year and currently has nine exclusive brand outlets in NCR, two in Gujarat and one in West Bengal, and over 50 shop-in-shops in leading MBOs. “Our offline business is growing profitably too, and is registering healthy repeat business. Each entity has turned profitable within 45 days,” she says.

Brands face newer hurdles

make an informed choice of intimate apparel. Many women in these towns aspire to buy fashionable lingerie especially brides- to-be who invest much more in pre-marriage lingerie shopping than several metros,” states Grover. As online continues to grow profitably, offline helps brands capture a completely

As the retail scenario in India changes quickly, brands face newer hurdles in their day-to-day business. As Kapasi reveals, “We first entered the market, there was limited exposure to modern trade. Though this has changed a good deal, for the large part, the lingerie sector is still dominated by unorganised trade.” There was a lack of awareness in the market about quality and fit, and the lack of acceptance of innerwear as the foundation garment of your outerwear. “As a result, consumer’s willingness to spend was less, as it was not seen as a true value addition, so we dealt in a highly pricesensitive environment.” Today, the hurdles have shifted to different topics. “To stay consistent with rising expectation in terms of product, service and brand experience, we now have to find solutions to cater to scattered consumers likewise and create more sophisticated shopping environments and higher engagement levels,” she adds.

“To stay consistent with rising expectation in terms of product, service and brand experience, we now have to find solutions to cater to scattered consumers likewise and create more sophisticated shopping environments and higher engagement levels.”

Jennifer Kapasi Head of Operations (India) Triumph not only managed to build a strong business model in less than a year, but also have managed to rope in leading venture capitalists to invest in them. By 2020, the online market is expected to be about Rs 600 crore. “Online retailing of lingerie has especially empowered people from small towns and villages to

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14 CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR

Awareness about fits, styles, willingness to pay hallmark of New Age consumers New Age women are open to experiment, focus more on comfort, fit and are willing to spend on the right innerwear. From being just a utility product innerwear is now more about beauty, comfort and fit, find out Shubhangi Bidwe & Ajay Goswami

“W

omen today are open to talk and discuss about innerwear,” says Ketan Gulati, Director, Kalyani Innerwear. “Though, they still pick up lingerie while purchasing other garments, and only if it is required for their newly purchased outerwear, they seek multiple varieties for different purposes in there wardrobe. Their aim is to balance their lingerie choices between utility, beauty, comfort and functionality,” he explains. Agrees

• New Age women seek multiple varieties for different purposes in there wardrobe • Are more willing to spend for the right fit, comfort • Growth of organized retail has thrown up more choices • Women are up for experimenting and trying out new styles • Online retail has made buying easy • Trend has changed from a functional need base to a emotional need base

“We see the trend changing from a mere functional need base to a more emotional need base. Lingerie as a fashion statement and a ‘feel-good factor’ gaining significance; it is seen as an extension of a woman’s personality and desires.”

Jennifer Kapasi Head of Operations (India) Triumph

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CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR

“Online retail has changed buying patterns of customers. It has become easy to buy at the click of a button sitting at home. They have already contributed in becoming one of the largest online buying channels.”

Grishma Patil Director, Candour London Jennifer Kapasi, Commercial Director, India & Sri Lanka, Trump and adds, “We see the trend changing from a mere functional need base to a more emotional need base. Lingerie as a fashion statement and a ‘feel-good factor’ gaining significance; it is seen as an extension of a woman’s personality and desires.”

Increased awareness about sizing New Age women have become more aware about the size and fit of innerwear, “Therefore, it’s challenging to fulfill the expectations of the customer,” states Bhavin Gala, Partner, Zivira. “Modern lingerie is sleek and minimalistic, with superior fit and smoothness. This comfort and support is accomplished with technical solutions. Versatility is valued, the innerwear accommodates different functions and body types to make women’s lives easier and full of comfort,” adds Gulati. His brand performs body tests on different sizes to deliver the best product and fit. “However, there is still a long way to go for the Indian consumer in terms of knowledge about lingerie,” says Kapasi. “There is a lack

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of awareness about the quality and fit, which makes it difficult for them to accept higher price points of products. We overcome this by investing in market and consumer education, it is in fact one of our core focus areas,” he observes. Smita Murarka, Head-Marketing & E-Commerce, MAS Brands India, owner of the brand Amante disagrees. “The growth of organised retail coupled with our own growth of over 40 per cent year on year shows educating the consumers on lingerie and its importance has its merits, and consumers are looking to upgrade their choices.” What’s more consumers now want comfortable apparel. “Modern women spend more on the lingerie with the advent of social media they are more educated and know what they want especially the younger generation. Brands too have started manufacturing according to the needs of the generation,” avers Bhavin Gala, Partner, Zivira. Sports bras and unstructured bras are more comfortable than their reinforced counterparts. “But by late 2019, this trend is likely to shift

“Modern women spend more on lingerie. With the advent of social media they are more educated and know what they want especially the younger generation. Brands too have started manufacturing according to the needs of the generation.”

Bhavin Gala, Partner, Zivira

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16 CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR

Sale driven by festivals

“The growth of organised retail coupled with our own growth of over 40 per cent year on year shows educating the consumers on lingerie and its importance has its merits, and consumers are looking to upgrade their choices.”

Smita Murarka Head-Marketing & E-Commerce, MAS Brands India with triangle styles forging ahead. Padded bras and special featured bras will be the most significant styles of bra in the market. The number of padded styles in stock has grown by 17 per cent, nursing bras are up 36 per cent and bralettes are up 123 per cent in past few months,” states Gulati.

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“Apart from the obvious ‘end of season’ sale periods, buying is heavily driven by occasion like: weddings, festive celebrations, religious functions, social gatherings, etc. International fashion also plays an influential role today. Indian women are slowly realising that the right lingerie can make all the difference,” notes Kapasi. The influx of domestic and international players into the Indian market has given consumers a lot of variety to choose from so loyalty to a particular brand is typically low. With human tendency to try new products or buy any brand that offers a discount, brand loyalty is an issue. “To overcome this, brands need to create stronger product offerings and differentiate themselves with more focus and ensure that the evolving needs and desires of customers are being met,” he adds.

Expenditure on lingerie on the rise Gala points out women nowadays spend up to Rs 1,500 for a single bra if the fit and comfort is good. “Indians have definitely become more open to buying and spending on lingerie these days with increasing variety in the market. Brands like Candour London have brought in young and playfulness in styles which gives a fun experience to customers like never before,” opines Grishma Patil, Director, Candour London. Murarka agrees, “While Indian consumers

are price conscious, they are also seeking value. They demand a fair price, and are willing to pay a premium for trust and quality that reputed brands offer.” As per Gulati women now spend 5 to 10 per cent of their income on purchasing lingerie. They need lingerie that will not look boring and goes with the outer garment. So, they purchase different styles and colors.

Online brands increase awareness “Earlier women felt shy about buying lingerie openly but now online brands and bloggers make them aware about the problems of not wearing the correct size,” Gulati says. “Many lingerie brands launch outlets with female sales person who help in getting the right fit and give suggestion based on body size. The store has different varieties, colors and designs to cater to different occasions,” she further states. Elaborating on the growth of online retail, Patil says, “Online retail has changed buying patterns of customers. It has become easy to buy at the click of a button sitting at home. They have already contributed in becoming one of the largest online buying channels.” And as Murarka says, “Online space has made it easier for brands to educate consumers on the importance of lingerie, and building a lingerie wardrobe suited for every woman.”

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18 COVER STORy BODYCARE CREATIONS

‘We plan to deepen our offline retail network’ Bodycare Creations, established in 2008, specialises in stylish and innovative innerwear. It provides complete lingerie solutions including bras, panties, camisoles, shorts, bikini, leggings, capries, etc. It also offers utility products such as tummy control panty, feeding bra, maternity panty and Teﬂon coating sanitary panty. Sanjay Dawar, Director, speaks about India’s lingerie market, the company’s operations and products. Tell us about your new offerings. What changes and additions have you made to your collections? We manufacture and sell innerwear for men and women. We also offer activewear/ loungewear for both men and women. We recently launched new designs in sports bras, padded bras, maternity briefs among others. We are adding new retail stores every month enhancing the reach and popularity of our brand further. We constantly add new products to our portfolio and many new products are lined up for launch shortly.

• Bodycare Creations has been in operations for 25 years • The brand recently launched new designs in sports bras, padded bras and maternity briefs • Currently, padded bras in black, white and skin colors are preferred • The brand also offers activewear/loungewear • The products are priced in the range Rs 150 to Rs 699

“We are in this field for past 25 years and have enough customer feedback to understand sizing accuracy. All our designs and sizes are based on customer preferences. To improve accuracy, we further integrate the returns data from our online sales vertical to understand if customers are facing sizing issues in a particular style.”

Sanjay Dawar Director, Bodycare Creations

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cover story

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Driven by easy availability of a number of brands and options in multiple categories at the click of a button, the behavior of the Indian lingerie customer has changed. The mobile revolution has enabled every class of customer to search and buy exactly what they need. The Indian customer always seeks trendy, value for money products. We offer best quality products at competitive prices.â&#x20AC;? Any new innovations in: style, look, fabric and colors?

cotton, we also use modal and polyamide fabrics depending on a particular design.

We constantly try to offer new and comfortable products. The customer, currently, is more inclined towards padded bras. These are preferred in black, skin and white colors followed by other colors like coral, pink, maroon, etc. Though our primary choice of fabric is

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innerwear segment is defined by accuracy in size, fit and style today. What improvements have you made in this direction?

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We are in this field for past 25 years and have

enough customer feedback to understand sizing accuracy. All our designs and sizes are based on customer preferences. To improve accuracy, we further integrate the returns data from our online sales vertical to understand if customers are facing sizing issues in a particular style.

Are modern young women more open

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20 COVER STORy “The mobile revolution has given Indian women the choice of buying their favorite brand/product at the click of a button regardless of their environment. They can order from home, office, while travelling from work to home or vice versa. With sales going digital, brands now have ready data on consumer preferences. The same data can be used to an extent to define what needs to be produced next.” to spending on lingerie? What are they looking for? Driven by easy availability of a number of brands and options in multiple categories at the click of a button, the behavior of the Indian lingerie customer has changed. The mobile revolution has enabled every class of customer to search and buy exactly what they need. The Indian customer always seeks trendy, value for money products. We offer best quality products at competitive prices. Today’s consumer is open about what they need, are more precise about their choices. It could be about the brand, kind of product they want to wear or the kind of product which will suit them best. Women are more aware about what size fits them and what kind of product will look good on them. They can compare prices of different brands before making the final selection. With the middle income group having good amount of disposable income, buying capacity of consumers has improved. The middle income group happens to be the reason behind retail revolution in India.

How is consumer spending on innerwear changing? The mobile revolution has given Indian women the choice of buying their favorite brand/product at the click of a button regardless of their environment. They can order from home, office, while travelling from work to home or vice versa. With sales going digital, brands now have ready data on consumer preferences. The same data can be used to an extent to define what needs to be produced next. The AOV of our website is between Rs 500 to Rs 700 for now.

Has consumer expectations made business complex and difficult to deliver? We are a 25-year-old brand and understand customer preferences better than other brands in the market. Our product range starts between Rs 150 and goes up to Rs 699, covering the entire lower and medium income segment. We are very strong in sourcing and that is our expertise. All our products are a value for money.

Innerwear is hardly an inner story anymore, it’s become a fashion statement, what is driving this change? The major driving factor is online availability of multiple brands, one can now choose from a number of brands on their favorite ecommerce site without moving an inch. Most domestic brands are now focusing on EBO’s to give a better experience to customers. Broadly our major sale comes from ladies upper segment i.e. bras, sports bras followed by panties and then other verticals like shapewear and other utility products.

What are your future plans? We plan to deepen our offline retail network by adding new retailers and distributors in markets yet to be explored.

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BOD

WOMEN

PERFECT FIT | PERFECT COMFO

Manufactured & Marketed by : BOD

D-30, Sector - 63, Noida - 201301, India | Tel: +91 120 4686400 | Fax: +91 120 4686401 |

SHOP ONLINE : www.ebodycare.in | For Trade Enquiries: +

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ODYCARE

WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S INNERWEAR

COMFORT | PERFECTLY SOFT.

y : BODYCARE CREATIONS LTD.

686401 | CUSTOMER CARE: +91 120 4278669 | customercare@bodycarecreations.com

uiries: +91-9899241782 | hkjaiswal@bodycarecreations.com

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24 IF EXCLUSIVE

“N

Triumph launches new bra collections

ew styles in our globally loved Armourette family for the Spring ‘19 season bring a world of lightness; playing with lace, contrasting lining and transparency,” says Jennifer Kapasi, Head of Operations (India), Triumph International. The brand recently launched three new bra collections including:

lightweight Spacer fabric that is both comfortable and invisible under garments. “The multi-layer fabric system in these bras enhances airflow and breathability by four times,” adds Kapasi .

Triaction: “These innovative sports bras beautifully showcase Triumph’s expertise in fit and innovation and boast the best bounce control levels in the market – tested and certified by a world-renowned research group in breast health at the University of Portsmouth,” adds Kapasi. In 2018, Triaction introduced a brand new concept, Magic Motion® Pro. “This latest addition to the cardio series offers versatility, softness and breathability thanks to its softtouch Magic Wire Air innovation,” states Kapasi. This year’s collection also introduces Hybrid Lite – featuring breathable spacer cups and Extreme Light in the Cardio range and Free Motion N in the Studio range.

Beauty-Full: Magic Wire Collection: The latest bra to be introduced in this series is the Sculpting Sensation bra which features innovative soft touch wire along with builtin stabilisers that give a comfortable fit allow maximum freedom of movement. “The bra fits softly against the skin. Its innovative materials sculpt the body, feeling almost like a second skin,” notes Kapasi.

Spacer Cup Collection: This collection features the Modern Finesse bra and the Airy Sensation bra. These products feature innovative new spacer cup technology and are made from new, 3D breathable and

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Triumph’s Beauty-full collection is tailor-made for fuller busted women. Designed keeping in mind the fullness of the bust, these bras have larger volume in the cups compared to regular bras.

Supporting women through its products and solutions Triumph, for the last 130 years, has been supporting women through their product, giving the feeling of total confidence and providing fit solutions for all shapes and sizes. Its new campaign #TogetherWeTriumph “is a bold statement of empowerment, of strength, reflected through a series of ‘real life’ moments where kindness and understanding shines through each of the short scenes,” adds Kapasi

Brand expands retail presence; builds on luxury and niche segments

The brand has been experiencing healthy double digit growth rate year on year, and exceeds the industry average by almost double. “We expect to continue with this above average industry growth in this year as well,” affirms Kapasi further adding, “our penetration into the Indian market is extremely strong with presence across all sales channels. Our distribution spans across more than 75 cities (direct supply) with more than 1,000 points of sale. We have a significance online retail presence with all the major e-commerce platforms.” This year, the brand plans to expand its retail presence as well as focus on expanding its e-commerce portfolio. “Our focus will also be on building up our luxury and niche segments. There is also scope to expand into tier 2 and 3 cities where there is growing demand for high-quality lingerie,” adds Kapasi.

Feel-good factor gains significance With the innerwear making a big difference to a woman’s wardrobe, Triumph sees a trend away from a mere functional need base to a more emotional need base. “There is increasing awareness about the right ‘fit’ of lingerie, though there is still a long way to go. Younger generation is not afraid to experiment with colors, cuts and designs,” states Kapasi. “Lingerie as a fashion statement and a ‘feel-good factor’ is gaining more and more significance. With the rise of working women and disposable income, women are not hesitant to spend on lingerie, especially when it makes them look and feel good,” he adds.

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IF EXCLUSIVE

Ultimo empowers full-figured women with its new shapewear collection

ow, women can bid adieu to their uneven bulges with Ultimo’s new collection that provides customers with three cutting edge shapewear designs targeting different areas of the body. “The collection can be defined as timeless luxury and heritage combined with modern techniques to make women of different shapes and sizes feel beautiful inside, out,” notes Smita Murarka, Head-Marketing & E-Commerce, MAS Brands India, the company that owns the brand.

A confidence booster The Ultimo shapewear collection includes the tummy control panty, thigh shaper and waist cincher. “These are strategically designed to seamlessly and effortlessly shape the body and can be worn comfortably for eight hours continuously. Available in black and beige tones, they can be worn underneath trousers, dresses, skirts etc,” adds Murarka.

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“Ultimo promises to give every full-figured women a confident, uplifting feeling about their own body. It strives to empower women to walk tall and carry themselves with confidence and grace in every situation,” she notes. The first Indian brand to cater to the needs of full-figured women, Ultimo offers a wide range of intimate wear in different styles and silhouettes, specially designed to suit the requirements of full figure women. “Built on a strong heritage of quality craftsmanship with rigorous attention to detail, we ensure comfort, support and innovation at our centre,” adds Murarka. Launched in 2017, the brand is available across the country. “We have a strong presence across 18 exclusive Amanté stores,” informs Murarka. “We are also available across South Asia in Sri Lanka, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, under the MAS Brands umbrella. Our two years of positive market experience enables us to provide problem-solving products to full

figured women,” she adds.

Lingerie market perspective Voicing concerns about the market, Murarka says, “The lingerie industry is highly fragmented, with too many players in every segment. The category is still largely unorganised, with branded players just forming one-third of the market. There is an influx of new entrants though with international brands and online labels which has helped in increasing the share of organised business.” Indian lingerie market has grown exponentially. “The consumer today seeks products that not only work on an everyday basis but also caters to international quality and styles.” Though, majority of consumers still prefer using basic garments, education and exposure is evolving their lingerie choices. Ultimo hopes to fulfill this need by allowing these women to feel their best without letting price determine their decisions.

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26 IF EXCLUSIVE

Clovia to launch new lingerie range, expand retail footprint

he next few months are likely to be full of action for Clovia as several Bollywood stars and India’s top designers are likely to get involved in the brand’s activities. The brand recently launched its superhit range of lingerie including period panties, designer back bras and step out effortlessly loungewear.

between layer of stain-resistant and leakproof lining. “Its unique hipster fit gives high coverage and snug fit making sure the sanitary pad stays put. These panties are reusable and also machine washable. Combining style with function, these panties are available in a variety of rich, dark and vibrant colors. They are priced at Rs 399 and onwards,” Kant adds.

Oomph factor with comfort

For the right fit

“Our bralettes are the perfect combination of sexy and comfort,” notes Neha Kant, CoFounder and CRO, Clovia. “Adorned with dainty noodle straps, non-padded, wireless and poke-free cups, these bralettes are available in a diverse range including sexy neon bralettes, designer back bralettes, longline bralettes, strikingly sexy black bralettes. They enhance your oomph as a crop top or can be clubbed a sexy shrug and shorts,” she adds. Clovia’s second innovative range, the period panties, has been designed with soft and breathable cotton fabric that incorporates an in-

As Indian women are unaware about sizes and fits, Clovia has introduced a breakthrough technology besides creating a tool called the ‘Fit Test’. “This test interrogates women about their body type before recommending the right bra. This tool has been used/attempted over 150,000 times,“ informs Kant. Every bra at Clovia goes through a rigorous fit-test on different Indian body-types before being launched. Extensive trials and testing is done to get the right bra fit – adjustments are done for shape and stretchability of fabric, and cup shape. “We have introduced guidelines on breast shape and separation, to help customers make the right fit choice,” notes Kant. The company has a solutionbased approach to designing lingerie. “Our team keeps in constant touch with customers and will continue to launch solutions for them,” she adds.

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Indian market still at a nascent stage Redefining the lingerie market by going beyond standard fits, colors and sizes, Clovia offers customers a wide variety of choices in ‘everyday essentials’, along with ‘fashion solutions’ to keep up with evolving wardrobes. “Lingerie for the longest time was a staple product with hardly any innovation,” Kant says. “Last few years have seen an unprecedented growth in awareness – both from sizing/hygiene as well as fashion perspective. India’s lingerie market is $3 billion (around Rs 18,000 crore) and will be $8.4 billion by 2020. The current market is still nascent, the top 10 brands put together are not even addressing 8 per cent of the overall market,” he explains.

Expanding retail footprint Predominantly an online brand, Clovia will soon be present in all channels. “Last year, we launched our offline stores as a marketing activity and saw great traction from different age group and audience. We now have nine exclusive brand outlets in NCR, two in Gujarat and one in West Bengal, and over 50 + shopin-shops in leading MBOs, multi-brand outlets in three states - including a chain. By March’19, we will have 24 EBOs and be present in 100+ MBOs,” Kant sums up.

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IF EXCLUSIVE

PrettySecrets aims to be the ultimate lingerie brand for Indian women

eading lingerie brand PrettySecrets, looks at innerwear as the foundation of a person’s outwear. “Based on this philosophy, we provide products that are high on functionality and comfort while being trendy and not compromising on style, colors and prints. All of this is provided at affordable prices,” says Prakash Ramanna, Vice President (Trade & LFS). The brand is reintroducing its Miracle fit collection this season with exciting new technology. “The beauty of this collection lies is its smooth seamless construction which gives comfortable fit without digging into the skin. Its molded construction gives a natural lift and avoids side bulges,” explains Ramanna. PrettySecrets is the first lingerie brand in India to launch a celebrity designed lingerie collection in collaboration with Anusha Dandekar. “She brings her body-positive ethos for young with fun, quirky designs, and fresh and vibrant colors even to everyday basics of Anusha For PrettySecrets, her first-ever lingerie collection,” notes Ramanna.

poised for exponential growth. “Majority of industry is unorganised, with unbranded regional players capitalising on the mass and economy segments. But there are few key players which have made a significant difference to the intimate wear market in India. Brands such as Jockey, Enamor, Clovia and Amante could be considered competition keeping in mind their price points, product portfolio and range, utility and design,” heads.

Aiming for the sky Elaborating on the brand’s future plans,

Prasanna notes, “We want to be the ultimate lingerie destination for Indian women. The goal is to have all women understand the need to #RedefineBasics and why it’s truly empowering to wear good quality, comfortable, yet pretty and stylish lingerie and nightwear on a daily basis. Our #RedefineBasics campaign aims at breaking barriers about how your everyday basic wear need not be boring for it to be functional and comfortable.” Stating his plans in pure business terms, Prasanna states, “We aim to scale our current year on year growth which has been consistently been 100-110 per cent every year.”

Innovative marketing to boost sales Highlighting the importance of the right-fit innerwear, he says, “fit and comfort along with the feel of the fabric are of utmost importance. Hence, it’s imperative to have these right.” The brand has leveraged current growing field of influencer marketing, which has made quite a big difference to its targeted marketing leading to stronger ROI driven brand awareness campaigns and growing sales. “Earlier, Indian women looked at lingerie as a luxury. However, this trend is slowly changing in a positive way. Our products and marketing initiatives urge women to redefine their everyday basic wear. We showcase lingerie and women in an extremely empowering light,” affirms Prasanna. “Social media exposure has led to women voicing their choices on innerwear openly,” adds Prasanna. “Women no longer accept lingerie as casual innerwear, they make time to try, select and purchase. Innerwear and intimate wear are now seen as fashion accessories instead of a mere necessity.” Women make a calculated innerwear purchase for an event, activity or occasion.

Sector poised for robust growth With a rise in the number of working women, higher disposable incomes, and a thriving youth population, the innerwear sector is

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28 IF EXCLUSIVE

Groversons introduces new styles, colours, fabrics to lure New Age women

“C

haracterised by rising prices and quality, Indian lingerie market is now being driven by growing organised retail, urbanisation, working women, changing fashion trends and awareness about better fits,” explains Siddharth Grover, Director, Groversons. The Indian lingerie market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 18.3 per cent from 2017 to 2019 and expected to touch Rs 300 billion in 2019 with organised retail expected to grow stronger in the next five years, believes Grover. The first lingerie company in India to get ISO9001:2008 certification, Groversons is one of the largest manufacturers of lingerie and intimate apparels in the country. “We have a production capacity of about over 25 lakh pieces a month,” Grover says. Employing over 2000 people directly and indirectly Groversons offers a wide range of products and has a strong distribution network across India. “We are present outside India in places like Dubai, Saudi Arabia, Iran, and some Middle Eastern countries,” he adds. The group has seven

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brands: Paris Beauty, Sparsh, Poems, Super Girl Bras, Miss T, Winta and Sunaina.

Emerging style and fabric trends in lingerie Grover points out, young women are opting for bright colors and different styles in lingerie. “A lot of overtly feminine tones have taken over the market. Intricate detailing and decorative seams help bring out a woman’s sensuality.” Fabrics like Italian silk, satin, chiffon, French and Italian laces have become extremely popular. Customised lingerie has taken the industry by storm with brands offering customised lingerie for mastectomy patients, lumpectomy patients, breast implants, etc. Entry of international players along with media exposure has greatly increased demand for colored lingerie. “The segment, dominated earlier by white, skin and black is now slowly shifting towards vibrant colors. There are a wide range of colors to choose from like jewel tone fuchsia, teal, chocolate, purple, etc,” states Grover. Customers are also experimenting

with various types of prints and embroideries in brassieres like transfer prints, graphics, animal prints, bondage accents, primitive embroideries, Berber stripes, geometrical accents, ikats and metal accents,” he notes. “Another future potential segment is designer lingerie which enables women to experiment with their garments and offers them personalised inspiring shopping experience,” he adds.

Online retail to grow Wider choice, secure payment gateways and flexible return policies are luring shoppers to online retail. “Lingerie e-tailers like Mylace, Zivame, Cilory, and StrapsAndStrings, have not only managed to build a strong business model in less than a year but also a few managed to rope in leading venture capitalists to invest in them,” affirms Grover. “The overall organised lingerie market in India is pegged at about Rs 5,000 crore, with online space accounting for just about 3 per cent of sales as of now. Industry watchers feel by 2020, the online market will reach Rs 600 crore,” he opines.

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IF EXCLUSIVE

Candour London to expand product range; launches new range of bras

“T

here’s a reason innerwears are called as the ‘second skin’. They’re all about comfort,” says Grishma Patil, Director, Candour London. This season, we are offering comfortable fashion lingerie, which also focuses on fashion and youthfulness,” she adds. “We have introduced a whole new range of bras this season including, Push up bra, Padded wired bra, Non-padded u/w bra and T-shirt bra ”

Preference for bright colors Elaborating on the color palette for this season, Patil says, “the lingerie industry in India does not focus on a particular color palette. It

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emphasises on trends in prints, silhouettes and colors.” “However, bright colors are preferred alongside the all time favorites such as black, white and skin,” she adds. According to Patil, “the unorganised market in India has reduced since the past few years as the customers are buying branded merchandise rather than a one of shelf product.” “Candour London offers a range in bras, panties, nightwears and loungewear. Our focus as off now is more on increasing our existing basket with everyday wears,” she adds.

Adding to fun element to lingerie styles Quite upbeat about the current lingerie

market in India, Patil says, “Indians have become open to buying and spending on lingerie these days due to the increase in the variety available in the market. Brands like Candour London have brought in youth and playfulness in styles which adds a fun experience to these products,” she adds. “Online retail has definitely changed the buying patterns of customers,” adds Patil. “It has become very easy to buy at a click of a button sitting at home. Candour London has already contributed in becoming one of the largest online buying channels,” She further states. According to her the most selling future product in lingerie will be Everyday bra with a hint of fashion.

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30 IF EXCLUSIVE TT’s new lingerie range echoes market trends, customer preferences

“T

he lingerie business is shifting from unorganised to organized sector,” states Sanjay Jain, Managing Director, TT Ltd. “Consumers today prefer buying foreign brands even if local ones offer better value for money. This advantage is likely to stay as long as Indian brands’ standards of service, consistency and detailing don’t improve dramatically,” he asserts. TT has recently introduced a new range of bras, panties, slips etc, under its sub brand ‘Desire’ which uses combed yarn with bio wash. “This

has been carefully planned based on market feedback, consumer preferences and market trends,” Jain says.

Rapid retail expansion; online makes a presence

in. Traditionally a price point ranging at the midpoint of the MRP and wholesale price point is the most ideal fostering a good sales on this format and in turn not cannibilising channel sales,” he adds.

TT’s retail presence is growing at a fast pace with the brand augmenting its presence simultaneously across all fronts be it EBOs or channel partners. “We are also augmenting production capacity of existing facilities besides launching a new integrated textile project in Gajraula with a manufacturing capacity of around one crore pieces per annum,” notes Jain. He view online sales as a promising segment. “But it is too restricted to urban literate population who account for a small percentage of whole sales especially the mass innerwear segments. It is a great tool for brand building ultimately appending the channel sales format. We have a fully integrated online presence for our products serviced through our facilities in Delhi-NCR.”

Sizing, price issues boost online sales Sizing and fabric feel is a big challenge for online garment sales Jain points out. “However, growth of organised brands would surely help online business as people are more confident in buying known brands,” he adds. Jain feels, online format at best is a supportive sales platform for channel sales. “Hence, we peg the price points at the general retail selling price points with a promotional bargain bundled

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IF EXCLUSIVE

Sonari makes women feel beautiful with its new range of bras

“W

e aspire to make our consumer embrace what she is and fall in love with themselves with our products,” says Dipesh Kubadia, Director of the leading lingerie brand Sonari. The brand has launched a new collection of bras titled ‘The Garden of Eden.’ “Comprising soft padded non-wired bras, sets with padded bras, t-shirt bras, sports bras, push up bras, this collection has received a tremendous response across India,” he adds. “It is available in a wide range of colors in fabrics like Lycra, modal & Spandex Fabric, etc. These bras can be worn with all types of dresses and saris,” Kubadia says.

A growth fantasy Talking about the brand’s inception, Kubadia says, “Bringing latest fashion lingerie at an incredible value was a defiance not every brand would want to face. Amidst the chokers, the flair sleeves and bell-bottom pants, there came a time to redefine the term ‘feeling luxurious’. The 70s brought major fashion goals for women and Sonari followed its hunch of making a modern woman feel sexy and confident from the inside. Our founders Bhogilal Kubadia and Dhiraj Kubadia put their first machine in Vadodara, to stitch a brand that became timeless.” The growth story of Sonari is nothing less than a fairy tale. “It was just the word of mouth that gave us a special place in many hearts by the early 90s. Post that, Sonari went through major expansions. By 2000, we sold some exotic lingerie in almost every state. What made us stand apart was the “feeling” our lingerie gave alongwith the impeccable quality and the right fit that added to a woman’s “feel good” desire,” adds Kubadia. The innerwear industry is growing with bras being manufactured scientifically in variety of fabrics like modal, spandex, cotton hosiery, etc. “Our direct to direct operations alongwith our online venture, support existing market set up,” Kubadia sums up.

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32 IF EXCLUSIVE

Kalyani Innerwear to launch new panty styles in 2019

elieving that “intimate wear plays a vital role in building the confidence and allowing people to make a style statement,” Kalyani Innerwear plans to launch a new range of bras and panties soon. “Today, women are more open to discussing about inner wear. They want lingerie basics that don’t look boring,” says Ketan Gulati, Director of the brand. The new range to be launched by the brand “will reflect a new generation of lucid and modern women. It will have more variety in colors and patterns that will complement the diverse range of styles,” he adds.

Active lifestyle fuels demand Increase in active lifestyles has led to the emergence of new lingerie trends in India. “Customers are adding new trends like the sports bra, cage bra, padded bra, feeding bra, softer lines of triangle bra/bralette and high

waste panties or full coverage panties, to their core collection,” notes Gulati.

Neutral colors and light fabrics preferred Since the consumers seek functional, versatile and comfortable inner wear; nude and neutral colors are preferred for both bras and panties alongwith minimalist and utilitarian styles. “This generation prefers “barely there” styles like wireless bras and soft bralettes,” he adds. Kalyani Innerwear offers products for both middle age and young women at reasonable prices. Its catalogue includes bras, panties and bra panty sets. The brand is further divided into three sub-brands i.e. Kalyani Innerwear which deal in bras, K Lingerie which deals in bra and panty sets and at last Kalyani Panties which deals in panties only. “Our collection emphasises on comfort and

is made with ultra-light , breathable fabrics that prevent skin irritation with different technical performances and textural effect such as modal cotton , nylon and digital printed fabrics,” states Gulati.

Delivering the right size “Women are becoming more aware about the size and fit for inner wears,” notes Gulati. “Modern lingerie is sleek and minimalistic, with superior fit and smoothness than ever before. Comfort and support is accomplished with technical solutions. This inner wear seeks to accommodate different functions and body types to make women’s lives easier and full of comfort. Also, we always do body test of different sizes so we deliver the best product and fit,” he adds. The brand currently manufacturers bra sizes 28-52 from A-E (in full and half cup sizes) , with even more sizes and styles launching soon for different purpose or solution. “We use new technologies of like using CAD for patterns and cutting, also using silicon mannequin for fitting test and also do body test of different body type of Indian women so we get the perfect fit and size of inner wear,” notes Gulati.

Forging ahead with its growth plans The brand currently stocks 17 per cent padded bras, 36 per cent of nursing bras and 123 per cent of bralettes. “Padded bras and special featured bra styles will dominate in 2019. We plan to launch period panties, maternity panties etc. in the coming month,” adds Gulati.

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IF EXCLUSIVE

Zivira lines up a colourful range for New Age women

“M

odern women spend more on lingerie,” says Bhavin Gala, Partner, Zivira. “The advent of social media has led to women being more educated about their requirements in terms of lingerie sizes. Companies too, have started manufacturing according to the needs of this generation,” he explains. Zivira recently introduced a new range of printed bras, big cup bras and printed bras in plain and printed fabrics. The brand mostly uses Lycra fabric in its lingerie as “it gives a comfortable feeling. We avoid using nylon or polyester due to hot climatic conditions for most part of the year,” states Gala.

Colourful lingerie in style The advent of new styles has also led to the use of myriad colors in lingerie. “Currently, pastel shades like rose, pink, peach, green, etc are in demand,” notes Gala adding, “We have 24 colors in a single pattern since the younger generation prefer different colored bras in their

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wardrobes; not the traditional black and white.” Since the innerwear segment is defined by accuracy in size and fitting, the brand always show customers the pattern before launching in the market. “Women nowadays spend upto Rs 1,500 for a single bra if the fitting is right and comfortable,” he adds.

Online business makes things difficult for retailers “The increasing customer expectation has made business difficult for both manufacturers and retailers. There are tough times ahead for retailers with online companies selling products at huge discounts. With new shops coming up, old retailers have to be on their toes and retain their customers by offering incentives or discounts,” adds Gala. “Social media has played a huge role in this change,” he states. “Though in India, we have a market for all types of bras , 60 per cent of this market will be dominated by padded bras and the remaining 40 per cent by T-shirt bras,” sums up Gala.

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34 IF EXCLUSIVE

Avon Brassiers expects 12-15 per cent growth; to move towards branded market cutters for accuracy in size, fit and styles.

Move towards a branded market According to Bhansali, “innerwear today, is not just a need but a way to express one-self. Its end-user and dealer acceptance is leading its movement rapid towards the branded market. It is also the reason we are seeing a new brand every year.”

Sizable growth amidst tough times Avon Brassiers is retailed through 1,500 MBOs in Bengaluru. “We have steadfast team of distributors who ensure that the market is serviced quite well. We have maintained our brand status and reach a sizeable section of the population,” says Bhansali. The brand loyalty for Avon is perhaps its greatest asset, in these tough competitive times. “In spite of the overall economic issues we see an upward growth of 12-15 per cent this year,” he asserts.

“H

aving started our operations in 1965, our sway over the Bengaluru market remains even today as we are the leading brands not only in terms of quality but also market cap,” says Arvind Bhansali, Director, Avon Brassiers. “We have recently launched printed padded bras and sets in biowash fabrics and seasonal colors. Our style statement for this season is chic style. We offer over 100 styles of brassieres made from knitted combed cotton, lycra cotton, woven cotton and polyamide nylon material,” he adds.

Ensuring size accuracy through latest softwards Incepted in 1965, Avon Brassiers believes in perfection and has a great eye for detail. The brand manufactures bras from premium fabric offers its customers the most innovative styles at down to earth prices. The brand philosophy revolves around providing topnotch products at competitive pricing. “We have a design studio in Mumbai which employs expert craftsmen who bring with them several years of industry experience and creative skills,” informs Bhansali. The brand also uses the CAD, CAM softwares and automated tape

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IF INSIGHT

Brands vie to grab a larger share of women’s leggings market

he market for women’s leggings traditionally saw the predominance of small local players from the unorganized segment. However, with the entry of big brands like as Lux Industries’ Lyra, Dollar’s Missy and Rupa’s Softline, the market is becoming standardised in terms of both prices and quality. Not limited by age unlike other apparel catergories, leggings market has a huge potential for development in India and domestic brands are waiting to grab this opportunity.

brand awareness. Trials for pop us shops will begin this December in five to seven cities. Missy offers leggings in over 85 colors and styles such as churidaar, ankle length, capris and so on. As leggings can flit across categories, they can be positioned in both ethnic wear or fusion wear stores. They can be offered as

complimentary products in leisure wear, active wear etc. Big brands such as Biba, Pantaloons and W for Woman have leggings under their own labels and other labels in their stores, these collections are limited to complementing products from their own labels; inventory management does not allow a full range of leggings to be displayed.

New initiatives to augment sales Lux Industries, particularly is looking to cement brand awareness. The company has not only roped in Bollywood actress Parineeti Chopra as its brand ambassador but has also created a catchy jingle that has augmented its value in the market. The company reportedly spends Rs 15-18 crore per annum on its marketing initiatives. It sold one crore lycra leggings last year. The brand now plans to launch new products such as palazzos, etc under the larger umbrella. Similarly, Rupa’s Softline, which recently expanded in to the lingerie segment, has signed in Anushka Sharma as its brand ambassador. With its marketing and advertising budget comprising 10 per cent of its sales, the brand plans to build awareness and associate itself with innerwear, sportswear and leisure wear.

Pop-up kiosks create brand awareness Almost all business for leggings is generated offline with e-commerce accounting for only modest 1 to 3 per cent sales. Therefore, Dollar Missy, along with its traditional and multibrand sales channels, plans to launch pop-up kiosks in malls to create

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36 TRENdS & STyLES

India’s women’s innerwear market comes of age The innerwear market has transformed in India from being a bare necessity to fashionwear that complements outerwear. The entry of top international brands has further pushed the segment from unorganised to organised market with demand for premium brands on the rise especially in metros. The segment is poised for big double digit growth in the future, write Ajanta Ganguly & Ajay Goswami • India holds immense growth potential in lingerie segment • Lingerie has moved from being just a basic undergarment to fashion innerwear • Working women spend 5 to 10per cent of their income on lingerie • Entry of large international brands has given a boost to the segment • Niche stores both online and ofﬂine is further pushing up growth • Innerwear category is estimated at Rs 25,034 cr and accounts for 8 per cent of the total apparel market in India • Women’s innerwear segment is estimated at Rs 16,259 crores in 2016 • The category will grow at a CAGR of 14 per cent to reach Rs 31,306 cr in 2021 and Rs 60,277 cr in 2026 • Bras and panties contribute 85 per cent of the total women’s lingerie segment

he women’s innerwear segment in India has now leapt out of the closet and taken up a pride of place in a riot of colours and styles in shopping malls and smaller stores across India. From being just a basic undergarment to becoming fashion innerwear, this segment has quickly created a niche for itself. Working women are now spending 5 to 10per cent of their income on purchasing lingerie as she buys more of western outfits and occasion-based intimate in different styles and colours. Women no longer accept lingerie as a necessary innerwear rather it’s a fashion accessory that compliments outerwear with a feel-good look-good quotient. India holds immense growth potential in lingerie industry, which is evident from the entry of large international brands in the last few years. Increasing size of organized market and declining share of unorganized market is resulting in growing independent brands taking charge of the market.

now become the most attractive, luxurious and feminine apparel worn intimately and respected for its practicality and comfort. There has been much innovation in the making of lingerie sophisticated technology and variety of materials. The key factors driving lingerie market is increasing size of organized retail market, growing urbanization, growing number of working women and the consumer class, changing fashion trends with, increased awareness about better fits and increasing per capita disposable income have given the women innerwear industry a new dimension. “The innerwear category is currently estimated at Rs 25,034 crores and accounts for 8 per cent of the total apparel market in

India. And, the women’s innerwear segment has grown in recent years, estimated to be worth Rs 16,259 crores in 2016 and accounts for 5 per cent of the total apparel market. The category will grow at a CAGR of 14 per cent to reach Rs 31,306 crores in 2021 and Rs 60,277 crores in 2026. Bras and panties contribute 85 per cent of the total women’s lingerie segment. In 2015, this segment was estimated to be worth Rs 14,000 crores and is expected to reach Rs 30,000 crores by 2020,” says Sandra Daniels-VP Marketing, Enamor, India’s premium online lingerie shop offering a trendy bras, panties, nightwear, sportswear and athleisure. The growth of this niche segment is apparent

Market transformation of innerwear segment Once controlled substantially by the unorganised sector, and almost wholly limited to rough cottons and locally made elastics, this segment has seen a quick growth of premium international brands penetrating the Indian market. Along with this, Indian brands started innerwear portfolios retailing through EBOs, LFS and departmental stores as well as a number of online channels. Lingerie has

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trends & styles

“The innerwear category is currently estimated at Rs 25,034 crores and accounts for 8 per cent of the total apparel market in India. And, the women’s innerwear segment has grown in recent years, estimated to be worth Rs 16,259 crores in 2016 and accounts for 5 per cent of the total apparel market.”

Sandra Daniels VP Marketing, Enamor in organised retail where customers are being provided the perfect space, ambience and sales advisors. Brands are also being helped to upgrade their brand outlook and make it more enticing and appealing. The all-pervading influence of western fashion has changed customer perception and they are willing spend more for better products. Although urban consumers are willing to pay higher for quality and value added products, the volume comes from price-sensitive rural markets or semi-urban markets where basic products focus on fit and comfort. The domestic innerwear market is witnessing a boom growing at an impressive CAGR of 10-12 per cent. Lately, the premium innerwear market in India has been seen the entry of global brands, mostly through partnerships and tie-ups with home-grown brands. The domestic innerwear market in India is dominated by players from eastern India. Kolkata-based brands like Lux, Rupa, Dollar, have over the last decade emerged as giants in the sector and have partnered popular foreign brands to stay ahead of competition, tickling the style nerve of fashionable Indian Gen X women. Women make a calculated purchase of innerwear with an event, activity or occasion in mind, which is largely driven by the media, product innovations and increased awareness of fashion and health trends. “The improvement in lingerie segment is continuous and is based on feedback and response. Shift post GST has been more pronounced from unorganised to branded, however overall demand in the last six months has been slow. Online is a strong and growing channel, however we have not offered much in the ladies segment through this channel – as we want product acceptability offline before offering it online where we need to be 100 per cent sure that there is no mismatch of expectations,”says Sanjay Jain, Managing Director, TT Ltd, a

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leading domestic family brand for men, women and children The brand introduced a new range of bras, panties, slips etc, under their sub brand ‘Desire’ which is value for money segment to provide aspiring consumers a quality product at reasonable prices.

Premium brands changing traditional mindsets The premium and super-premium segments are likely to double in the next three years. Experts say the men’s segment is growing at 10 per cent while the women segment is growing at 18 per cent with fast transition to the organised segment. The lingerie industry in India is huge and majority are unorganized, with unbranded regional players capitalizing the mass and economy segments, but there are few key players which have made a significant difference to the intimate wear market in India. Many brands are now undertaking extensive studies and research to understand pain and pressure points and preferences for innerwear amongst women which has been incorporated

into their product designing and manufacturing. “The lingerie market has been rapidly growing in India, but we’re still way behind western markets. Women in India used to consider lingerie a luxury and not a necessity. However, we’ve seen this trend slowly changing in the positive direction. Our product offering and marketing communication has always been centred on urging women to redefine their everyday basic wear. In most places across India, lingerie is still considered a taboo and is hush-hush where women are uncomfortable talking about it in the open. At PrettySecrets, all our communication that is directed to our consumers showcases lingerie and women in an extremely empowering light. This has led to a change in the openness of women to talk about their lingerie choices openly on a social forum,” points out Prakash Ramanna, Vice President (Trade & LFS), PrettySecrets. The premium innerwear market has seen the advent of global brands, mostly through partnerships and tie-ups with home-grown brands. This idea of getting foreign brands to

“The improvement in lingerie segment is continuous and is based on feedback and response. Shift post GST has been more pronounced from unorganised to branded, however overall demand in the last six months has been slow.”

Sanjay Jain, Managing Director, TT Ltd

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38 trends & styles India and forming associations started after industry surveys established consumers using premium and super-premium products are well-travelled and brand aware and choose global brands over Indian ones. Almost all leading innerwear players are now trying to rope-in international brands to cater to a new tech-savvy generation. India holds immense growth potential for the lingerie industry, which is evident from the entry of large international brands in the Indian market in the last few years. Increasing size of the organized market and declining share of unorganized market is resulting in the growth of independent brands. “Women’s innerwear has undergone a major style surgery, as it’s now not to hide but to flaunt. Fashion plays an important role as now innerwear is not just a need but a way to express one-self just like outerwear. The ratio of basic to fashion would be 4:1 in innerwear. The key challenges in the in the segment is the lack of education and information of the branded market, we see a new brand every year. The unorganized player does not have a major effect on the target group of branded as both targets are completely different,” points out Arvind Bhansali, Director of Avon.

Organized retail growing fast Women’s innerwear is the fastest growing segment which significantly outstrips the growth in men’s segment. Women nowadays are ready to talk about lingerie as they know what they want and are willing to try new products. Nowadays, premium lingerie is becoming a regular planned purchase and not for a special occasion like a marriage or a special romantic occasion. With mall culture on the rise, many lingerie boutique stores and shop-in shops with trial rooms have come up. It is an intimate purchase which women like to do alone or with friends, so feeling comfortable while buying the product and wearing it are important parameters. “There has been an immense growth in

organized retail which offers better buying space, pushing the brands to upgrade their imagery by increased marketing spends. A research report by CARE shows, women’s lingerie segment holds a 52 per cent share of the total innerwear market in India. In value terms, the women’s lingerie segment holds 66 per cent share of the total innerwear market. Overall, the lingerie industry in India is expected to grow at a CAGR of 18.3 per cent from 2017 to 2019. It is currently estimated at Rs 79 billion and is expected to be worth Rs 300 billion in 2019. It may not be an exaggeration to say that lingerie might become the next fashion fad in India. In India the vast middle class and its almost untapped retail industry are the key attractive forces for global retail giants wanting to enter into newer markets,” points out Siddharth Grover, Director of Groversons. India holds an immense growth potential for lingerie industry, which is evident from the entry of large international brands in the last few years. Increasing size of the organized market is resulting in growing independent brands taking charge. The rise in working women with their own disposable incomes has changed the concept of lingerie from just an undergarment which no one sees to a fashion item which has a role to play with her outerwear. Mass media and advertisement play an important role in Indian family. There are several peculiarities of the market related to Indian mentality. The wedding season hikes up sales as when an Indian woman is going to married, she purchases expensive branded underwear whereas in the West, women buy it for just the feel good and look good factor at any point in time. However there is a growing awareness about how the right lingerie can help you to look good as fashion seeps from outerwear into the innerwear segment. Foreign brands need to adopt their marketing strategy of product promotion in Indian markets. Sales of innerwear will increase, if the trademark and

“Intimate wear plays a vital role in building confidence and allowing people to make a style statement. Women love to experiment with lingerie. Young girls are ready to experiment with different lingerie and their preferences vary with different outerwear. Girls in metros desire fashionable products that they can flaunt among their social circle. They love to indulge themselves with the latest trend. For women in their mid-thirties and above, ‘comfort’ is the most important factor that influences their purchase decision.’’

Ketan Gulati, Director, Kalyani Innerwear

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“There has been an immense growth in organized retail which offers better buying space, pushing the brands to upgrade their imagery by increased marketing spends. A research report by CARE shows, women’s lingerie segment holds a 52 per cent share of the total innerwear market in India. In value terms, the women’s lingerie segment holds 66 per cent share of the total innerwear market.”

Siddharth Grover Director, Groversons promotion is done by Bollywood star more than an international actress or model. Some brands also launch new lines before a festive season, wedding season or the New Year as women tend to buy new undergarments as a seasonal purchase while buying new clothes. Also unlike the West, Indian women prefer underwear of bold colours like red and pink and reject grey and khaki colours because of their darker skin tones. “The intimate wear plays a vital role in building confidence and allowing people to make a style statement. Women love to experiment with lingerie. Young girls are ready to experiment with different lingerie and their preferences vary with different outerwear. Girls living in the metros desire fashionable products that they can flaunt among their social circle. They love to indulge themselves with the latest trend. For women in their mid-thirties and above, ‘comfort’ is the most important factor that influences their purchase decision. Working women want a mix of fashion and functionality, which will make them feel beautiful inside and boost confidence. So every woman has their need according to age and everyone have different stories,’’ points out Ketan Gulati, Director, Kalyani Innerwear.

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PREVIEW

Innovation and sustainability to rule at Interfiliere Hong Kong

n December 17th, 2018, Eurovet Group, the organiser of the leading international trade show events for lingerie, swimwear and active-wear supply chain and different sectors from Indonesian Lingerie Industry joined the develoPPP.de programme of the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development (BMZ), in partnership with sequa gGmbH. Under the framework of the development partnership, Eurovet will initiate different activities to promote sustainable and circular lingerie manufacturers from Indonesia and to contribute to the development of the Indonesian lingerie industry through awareness creation, capacity building, knowledge transfer, practical implementations and the Interfilière Hong Kong trade fair. The 13th edition of Interfiliere Hong Kong will be held on March 20-21, 2019 at Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, Hong Kong. The event will featuring intimatewear, swimwear and athleisure will focus on innovation,sustainability and performance in Hong Kong, the hub of Asia. The event will bring the BEST exhibitors & visitors together around Asia with new initiatives and innovation

trend conferences, discussion panels or talks with visionary keynote speakers. The topics will cover the future of our industry, the current industry progress and challenges and more. Networking events including breakfast, Lunch, happy hour, etc will create a fun yet fashionable networking atmosphere and encourage casual (yet fruitful) business connections.

Eco-friendly solutions on display Over 500 innovative products selected by a steering committee will be displayed at the interactive gallery. Out of these 3 per cent will be fibers, 7 per cent embroidery, 24 per cent lace, 33 per cent fabrics, 16 percent accessories, 17 per cent OEM/ODM. Around 50 per cent of the exhibitors will showcase eco-friendly solutions (collection or production process) Forum – The Creativ’Lab: The Creativ’ Lab will showcase a selection of samples and technological innovations, materials, accessories, colors, prototype displays made by exhibiting mills and curated by Concepts Paris. The Interfiliere Hong Kong Creativ’Lab decrypts a preview of Autumn / Winter 2020-2021. Conferences: It will also hold high-level

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sawan creation 120, Shreeji Indl Estate, 1st Floor, Subash Road, Jogeshwari (East), Mumbai-400 060. Tel: 022-2826 4338 E-mail : sawancreation@gmail.com

Dinesh Kanjia

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