Twice as Nice!
Weekly supplement by Insider Publications • insider-publications.com • facebook.com/insiderpublications • No 95 • Friday, February 06, 2016 EXHIBITION JAMAL: THE SILK ROAD
MUSIC RAMSEY LEWIS QUARTET
Celebrating one of history’s most poetic and emblematic trade routes, the Silk Road, which connected China to the West for centuries, until the New World was discovered. Fifteen works by Jamal, a Yemeni-born artist from Syria, convey the myths and charm of the silk, Benaki Museum of Islamic Art Aghion Asomaton 22 & Dipilou, benaki.gr
Triple Grammy award winner and American jazz hero Ramsey Lewis, who has recorded over 80 albums, hits town with his Ramsey Lewis Quartet, February 6 at 10pm. Seventh Heaven for Athens Jazz Lovers! Gazarte cultural complex, 32-34 Voutadon, Gazi, gazarte.gr, tickets from €20 to €50.
CITY LIFE
Munson cooked because he enjoyed the food as well as showing his guests how to prepare complicated dishes with ease. When not eating on the terrace we scrambled to the side of the hill to Zois’ two-room taverna. She had her own barrel of wine, and food was whatever she had made for her husband Costas and her one son who worked in the bank. For more sophisticated evenings, we trooped down to Paradissos taverna, beside the now St. George Lycabettus Hotel. The steaks were outrageously priced at 28 drch. Here we used to meet with Thanos Veloudios,
The Lycabettus Set
Much like London’s famous Bloomsbury Set – or Paris in the 1930s – Kolonaki’s Lycabettus Hill in the mid 20th century was a rich enclave of artistic and intellectual life, writes John Zervos. He describes the Lycabettus of his childhood and dinners at the Paradissos with a young Leonard Cohen. It’s raining hard and the taxi is slipping and sliding up Aristipou Street on its way to the funicular on Mt. Lycabettus. My guest is about to be treated to a panoramic, albeit rainy, view of the city from the Athenian balcony of St. George’s chapel. The entrance to the funicular is about half- way up the hill, a ten-minute walk from Kolonaki square. In the 1940’s we lived on the slopes in an old house on Anagnostopoulou street, before being displaced by an errant shell that shattered our living room and our lives. The hill and pathways up to the monastery were dotted with neo-classical houses, built among the dwarf pine trees. There was no tramway, but to the right of today’s
UPCOMING EVENTS
belonging to the Grillos family; it was the highest house in Athens. Downstairs it had a loom, the garden had a well, and a smaller house tucked away in the back. The upstairs open terrace looked out on the Acropolis, the Saronic Gulf, Aegina and Mt. Hymettus. In 1961 an American physicist called Ron Geller rented the house: I was young, and fresh as mint, and Ron opened an American window in my mind. He introduced me to Robert Frost, he told me of a young singer called Bob Dylan, of the soprano folk singer Joan Baez, he spoke of 12 string guitars, blues musicians and the poetry of high energy physics; his Greek friends included Constantine Tsoukalas, a
Greek historian and Phroso Doxiadi, who later published the ‘’Portraits of Fayyum,”. Ron invited me to the States; I arrived in the summer of 1963 on the day that Martin Luther King, was giving his “I have a Dream” speech in Washington, DC. Five years later, I returned to the house on Mt. Lycabettus. Although the funicular had been built, Aristipou street was still a dirt track. Many of the older houses had been replaced with residential high-rises. Grillos’ house had been rented to an Australian architect, turned artist, called Robert Dahncke; other artists and foreigners lived in nearby houses; Chris Gear, from England, Michael Piller from Oregon, who specialized in paintings of apes; Michel and Francoise Roux, Judy and Allen Efstathiou, from the Boston Museum School; novelist Peter Dreyer and his wife Mariika, exiles from South Africa; Gilbert Horobin, travel writer, author Peter Main, poets, Alan Ansen, Jimmy Merrill, Chester Caulman, Sinclair Beilles; a young Greek actor, called Petros Fissoun; an ephemeral character, called Princess Zina Roschefsky, then
Canadian singer called Leonard Cohen, who lived on Hydra with his wife Marianne. Visitors were many and varied. Umberto Velanzuela from the American Embassy used to ‘’slum” on the terrace with his neatly creased jeans, watching the parade. One afternoon it’s an American, Eric Solebake back from the Bodgaya monastery in India. He is chanting Homer, which is all he is allowed to do in his two-year vow of silence. Another long-term resident, Penny Midgely
leaving her one -legged boss who runs a crop dusting business, to work as a PA for Stanley Sieger, a wealthy American living on the opposite hill, in Mets, in a building co-owned by collector Harry Blackmer. I used to see Penny in London and was happy when she told me that Stanley had given a grant to his alma mater Princeton University. The Sieger Fund brings many princetonians to Athens to study Greek and things Greek. It was an unusual conglomeration of Greeks and foreigners. There was something special about being there at that time; but in 1971 the Grillos house was torn down, Aristipou street was paved for the residents of the new high-rises, Zoi died, the Paradissos taverna closed, and along with it, an era akin to Paris in the thirties. The cab stops at the funicular entrance, we get out, and I look up. My friend asks: “Is there someone you know up there?’’ I turn to Conrad Rooks. Don Munson an American him and say, ‘’Not anymore” and hurry in to from Boston, who distinguished himself get out of the rain. race, much as he did 20 years later in his John Zervos is the director of the Athens Knightsbridge home to the likes of Ava Gardner, John Richardson and others. Don cler of the city’s changing face.
INTIMATE A multi-dimensional contemporary dance spectacle between dream and reality that merges physical theatre, modern dance and visual landscapes to the soundtrack of live electronics. Plefsis’ new performance, “Intimate”, draws inspiration from G. Bachelard’s classic book The Poetics of Space. 14th Day Art Space, Kallirrois 10, 210.921.0077, until April 24, tickets from €5
ELLES Sisters are doing it for themselves at Elles, a tribute to 67 female artists from 1950 onwards with 400 works covering major historical events and socio-political revolutions shaping modern art history. See Elles at Frissiras Museum, 7 Monis Asterious, Plaka, until June 30, frissirasmuseum.com
A tribute to a shining light of the 1960’s Parisian art scene, Nonda (Epaminondas Papadopou-Ios), one of the Arts. Known for his outdoor installations under Pont Neuf bridge – and his unconventional use of cow’s blood as a medium. Museum of the City of Athens, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, athenscitymuseum.gr until March 23
GREEK LIFE
An Orange Juice with Two Squid, Please!
John Carr, author of “Greekisms for Dummies”, talks Greek humour versus British - and confesses to his own struggles with the tricky Hellenic tongue. How long did it take you to get to grips with the Greek language? No-one ever ‘gets to grips’ with the Greek language. Even now there are parts of Homer and the New Testament that cause scholars to scratch their heads. I don’t scratch mine, because I’m not that smart. What is your Greek Connection? I am in fact half Greek on my mother’s side. She met my English soldier dad at the height to the safety and drizzle of North Staffordshire, where I was subsequently born and the rest, as they say, is history. My mum did her blessed best to teach me some Greek at an early age, an effort which resulted in such tantrums and trauma that I’m still babbling to my analyst about it with copious tears. So much later in life, I decided to get my revenge by writing Greekisms for Dummies (me being the dummy, of course) with the help of fellow-journalist Paul Anastasi, a half-Cypriot who lives, like me, in a bottomless existential chasm. Then in grammar school I picked Greek over Latin, thinking it would be easy. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being Mandarin!), how hard do you think the Greek language is to learn for the average beginner? That depends on the individual. I’ve seen Greek very quickly indeed (such as Bruce Clark, formerly of Reuters), and some, even though married for centuries to Greek spouses, unable to utter much more than ‘nay’ or ‘okky.’ Women seem to be better at it than men, I’m sorry to say. It must be the neuro-cerebral structure. You can’t scale
this thing, though if you insist, I’d give it a 5. Much of your book focuses on the lighter side of Greek life. How does the Greek sense of humour compare to the British sense of humour? the urbanized Greeks who subconsciously, however, wish they could pull off the witty and urbane act. But the Greek character, of course, is different. Much English humour lies in being semi-concealed under a mask of detachment. Greek humour is more open and yes, I’ll say it, vulgar. The problem with that is that Greek males carry it to macho excess and then it goes sour. Sure, it’s straight from Aristophanes, but he, at least, knew how to carry it off. I include plenty of examples in the book, which is not for the faint of heart or the politically correct. This can be a label warning. Once you’ve bought the book you can’t get your money back. Can you tell us one of your favourite Greekisms? I suppose it would be ‘sit on your eggs,’ which to the average unsuspecting Anglo-Saxon would carry a quite unseemly sub-text. Finally, have you ever made any classic faux pas in Greek? It took me a heck of a long time to get the correct participial pronoun for ‘give me a phone call,’ which can all too easily become ‘buy me a telephone.’ Which probably explains why, when I used the phrase, people
Call 210.896.0028 or visit www.orloffdayspa. gr to reserve your treatments.
TV THIS WEEK
HOW TO GET AWAY WITH MURDER 2
Philip makes a threatening move and Catherine and Caleb are forced to make a life changing decision. Thursdays at 22.40 on Foxlife.
CASTLE 8
When Castle’s idol, a famously reclusive author, turns up dead, Castle is determined to solve his hero’s murder. Wednesdays at 21.50 on Foxlife. Watch FOX on OTE TV
CINEMA THIS WEEK
on a train in northern Greece, I asked the barman for an orange juice with two squid. I had merely added an extra syllable to the €9.99 from all leading international bookshops and on our website: www.insider-publications/subscribe/books
THE DANISH GIRL
A love story inspired by the lives of Danish artists Lili Elbe and Gerda Wegener as they navigate Lil’s groundbreaking transgender journey in a stunning performance by Eddie Redmayne.
ROOM squalid surroundings that Jack has known his entire life, the boy makes a thrilling discovery in a powerful adaption of Emma Donoghue’s best-selling novel.
ART & CULTURE
DANCE
EXHIBITION
EXHIBITION LE PARIS DE NONDA
Here’s the perfect formula to stoke a loving mood this Valentine’s Day. For the month of February, Orloff Spa at Astir offers a luxurious full Polynesian Body Massage (55 minutes) for two at the special reduced price of €110 (usually €170). Enjoy this heavenly massage experience, together or separately, with exclusive Cinq Mondes oil products and traditional hot stones. Buy any Cinq Mondes product and you’ll also receive a 50ml Orange Blossom gift spray.
THEATRE THE WOMAN OF GUERNICA Pablo Picasso’s most mysterious muse, Dora Maar, stages her life and love with the great painter during the German occupation in this tour de force performance by Polina Gionaki, every Sunday at 8pm at S.G. Art Gallery, (with English subtitles). Tickets €10 and include a glass of wine, Kleomenous 2, slglycabettus.gr
INSIDER HOTSPOT
BELUGA Art BAR
Here’s one to put on the seduction list this Valentine’s Day. Beluga Art Bar. If you don’t mind your sweet nothings being overheard by the bright and beautiful folk who have adopted this sultry Piraeus newcomer (which opened mid-December) as their own.
boot of late, starting with the opening of Madama Bar last October.) Secondly, Beluga does a smooth line in slinky canapés. Team a svelte Zombie cocktail with some share plates of tiger tempura, or well-styled sushi. Or go all out with a red-blooded sliced steak with Parmesan and rocket, followed by a shudthe posh name. Coupled with the shady dering dessert climax such as a chocolate address, right in the heart of the infamous ganache. Then try and tell us you’re not Trouba district. Trouba was notorious during the 50s and 60s, thanks to several Lastly, there’s the tres-cool décor at this cabarets and brothels that once serviced vintage-meets-modern, all-day concept. the port. But who doesn’t secretly love a Beluga works a “retro Chicago” vibe, (parplace with a racy history?! (Anyway, Trouba ticularly during their regular jazz and swing is experiencing something of a hip re- evenings). Insider loved Beluga’s wonder-
ful artistic eye candy. Seventy-plus pieces of wall art and sculptures by their tally. Best of all… what happens in Beluga, stays in Beluga! Beluga Art Bar, 2as Merarhias 8-10, Piraeus, 210.411.6505
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If any one person was instrumental in giving birth to the “supermodel”, it was Peter Lindbergh, writes Amanda Dardanis. January 1990. The birth of both a new just a black and white colour scheme. He the other she looks away, apparently abdecade - and a new species. Peter Lind- routinely harnesses body movement, in sorbed in a private moment far from the bergh’s seminal portrait of a baby-faced particular modern dance, to elevate the hu- camera’s eye. Cindy, Helena and Naomi, smouldering in man form in a way that conveys elements Opening hours for the exhibition are Monblack and white against a Manhattan sky of both antiquity and modernity. days to Fridays from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and scape, hits the news-stands and instantly Spanning the last thirty years, the Gagosian Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Gagosian becomes one of British Vogue’s most iconic Gallery, 3 Merlin, tel 210.364.0215, www. covers of all time. Shortly afterwards, these the world of fashion photography, and his gagosian.com genetically-blessed young women and their contribution to portraiture in general. The Photo: KRISTEN MCMENAMY, LE TOUQUET, contemporaries are elevated from mere jobbeauty of his female subjects is purpose- FRANCE, 2009 - © Peter Lindbergh, Courbing models into celestial bodies with stuful, self-possessed, and uninhibited. With tesy Gagosian Gallery pendous pay packets to match (and starring little styling or setting to divert attention, roles in George Michael music videos). Lindbergh’s approach emphasizes the raw From this week (February 4), you can now physical grace of his subjects. see some of the potent portraits of this ac- His work, mainly mired in the celebrity claimed German-born photographer on dis- world, is as widely imitated and instantly play at the Gagosian Gallery in Athens in a recognisable as his late German contemsolo exhibition that runs until April 23. porary Helmut Newton, whose provocative The spotlight on Lindbergh is timely. Last fashion images were also a mainstay of year, a quarter of a century after his famous Vogue and other publications. Vogue shoot, he made global headlines Says Lindbergh of his photographic style: again when he re-united his supermodel “Isn’t art about breaking rules, about chalpals once more – this time for Vogue Italia, lenging existing systems; isn’t it about diswhere they still looked every bit as dazzling. covering meaning in things or situations Lindbergh’s evocative editorial work for before others see anything in them?” glossy magazines such as Vogue and In a diptych of Monica Bellucci, one of Harper’s Bazaar draws inspiration from Lindbergh’s favourite muses, that appears early narrative cinema and street photog- at the Gagosian, one image captures the raphy; his subjects are often characterised by minimalist make-up, simple clothes and as she walks toward the camera, while in