Weekly supplement by Insider Publications • insider-publications.com • facebook.com/insiderpublications • No 84 • Friday, November 20, 2015 MUSICAL NINE
Federico Fellini’s classic musical “8 ½”,the story of a director facing a midlife crisis as he turns 40, is repackaged as “Nine” until January, by the Pantheon Theatre, in a cast led by Vassilis Charalambopoulos, 166 Pireos, Tavros, pantheontheater.gr
CITYSCOPE
Here’s to you,
Valaoritou
UPCOMING EVENTS
Caroline Olsen embarks on a walking tour of Valaoritou, a short street with a big personality. Early Wednesday afternoon and Valaoritou Street hums with activity. Shoppers pass through purposefully. Cafés and restaurants spill out onto the pavement in typical Mediterranean fashion as city workers take lunch breaks and fashionable friends meet for coffee and conversation. A chic and charismatic pedestrianized street nestled in the heart of Kolonaki, Valaouritou extends from the famous Voukorestiou to Amerikis. Kolonaki is considered the aristocratic district of Athens, thanks to its expensive shopping, upscale bars, and stylish coffee shops. The inner-city suburb is named after the ancient column (kolonaki), standing proud in the middle of Homonym Square. A walk through the leafy area reveals beautiful architecture with towering neoclassic and modernistic buildings that lure the eye. Voukorestiou Street runs perpendicular to Valaouritou and fulfills its ritzy reputation, with major style icons like Cartier, Dolce and Gabbana, and Hermes crowding the street. While Valaoritou is less flashy than its neighbour, there are still unique treasures to be unearthed along this atmospheric pedestrian road, that provides sanctuary from the relentless Athenian motorcade. On the corner of Voukourestiou and Valaouritou is the Yellow Marshmallow
FESTIVAL ECO-KIDS 2015
Introduce your children to the grandeur of our miraculous planet at the Eco-Kids Festival, an activity-packed weekend celebration of our natural world, Olympic Velodrome, Marousi, entrance €8, ecokids.gr.
(21 Voukourestiou Str. 210 36 30 984, yellowmarshmallow@icould.com), a breezy children’s clothing boutique, delivering “high fashion for little people”. Browse through their irresistible range of sequined dresses, baby purses, and adorable tiny shoes where you are certain to find something to spoil the small people in your life. Across the street, also intersecting Voukourestiou, is Pentheroudakis (19 Voukourestiou Str. 210 36 16 187, www. pentheroudakis.com), a unique Greeceinspired jewelry shop. Family-owned (and now onto its third generation of ownership), Pentheroudakis is the place to source that memorable quality piece to remind you of your time in Greece. The family tradition remains subtly woven throughout the shop displays. Sitting on one of the more colorful jewelry cases is a small fading photo of current proprietor Harry Pentheroudakis’ grandfather, the the shop’s founder. In keeping with the times, Pentheroudakis have recently branched out from their traditional gold pieces and created their first line of silver jewelry for those looking for something a bit more affordable.
A little further down the street, Jimmy’s Coffee Shop (7 Valaouritou, 210 36 10 444) offers a warm and familiar place to take a relaxing reprieve from shopping. Listed as one of USA Today’s “10 best coffee shops and brunches”, Jimmy’s has been a Kolonaki institution since 1981. Join the locals in one of Jimmy’s cosy maroon leather booths, lined up opposite the bar to resemble a classic American diner. A common meet-up location at any time of day, Jimmy’s opens early at 6:30 am and offers American-style breakfasts; while for lunch, you can find more traditional Greek specialties and delicious homemade pies. Weaving through the cafes and restau-
MUSICAL BILLY ELLIOT
FAMILY FUN DISNEY ON ICE
Blockbuster musical Billy Elliot, featuring the music of Elton John, staged at the Pallas Theatre, tells the tale of an 11-year-old boy who seeks to make his ballet dancing dreams a reality while the world around him collapses, Voukourestiou 5, a-th.gr.
Disney on Ice enchants once again with much-loved tales of Mickey, Minnie & Goofy, Aladdin, Cinderella, Snow White, Mulan, Ariel, Beauty and the Beast, plus Tinkerbel in “Princess Classics”. From November 19-23 at the Faliro Tae Kwon Do Hall, phone 210.723.4567 for tickets.
TV THIS WEEK
Gastronomy
rants, you’ll next encounter the eye-catching display of AlterEgo (18 Valaouritou, 210 36 46 057, www.alterego.gr), one of the new-breed of electronic cigarette shops popping up everywhere over Athens in the past year or so. This one has a futuristic atmosphere about it, with different species of vaporizers lit up on the walls in glowing green cases. AlterEgo sells eliquid flavors with edgy names such as “Pierced” from their “Counter-Culture” line. Smoking remains a huge part of the Greek culture, and more and more Athenians are clearly testing the waters with e-cigarettes, searching for a healthier option. For smoking purists, who prefer a more traditional tobacco fix, there is a cigar and pipe store next door, specializing in handmade Greek pipes. (Or if you are in the smokefree camp, head directly across the street where you’ll find an organic health and wellness store for all your healthy-living cravings!) For a perfect close to your Kolonaki wanderings, indulge in a fine meal at Tuttitalia (14 Valaouritou, 210 33 89 669, www.tuttitalia.gr), an authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria. Here, you can sit back and enjoy delicious housespecialty pastas and sauces, meat dishes, risotto, pizzas and desserts prepared by a traditional Italian chef – accompanied by one of Tuttitalia’s lively Italian wines. Whether shopping for clothes, jewelry, or something special for the wee ones, catching up with a friend over a meal, taking a breather from the busy workday, or just people-watching, Valaouritou Street provides something for all.
Not only has Corks & Forks sounded a welcome change of note for Piraeus, it has also pitched itself perfectly for these oftuntrustworthy times: consistently delivering on its pledge of “honest food and fine wines”. Which is why so many of us go back there time and again (although the white sangria and hellishly-good banoffee pie are two more compelling reasons!). Share a meat and cheese platter and a few bot- THE GRINDER new comedy starring Rob Lowe as a famous TV tles of good plonk with friends as you perch Alawyer who decides to move back home and join his on stools, or around old wine barrels. Or in- family’s real law firm – despite having no formal experidulge in a main from the reasonably-priced, ence. Each Sunday at 21.25 on Foxlife. In the year of the Wine Bar, Piraeus gem, frequently-evolving menu. The range is inCorks & Forks, remains delightfully off- ternationally-tilted, with uncommon dishes like Spicy Thai Shrimp with red curry sauce; radar. Risotto with Smoked Bacon and GorgonClearly, 2015 has been the Year of the Wine zola; or Salmon marinated in Gin and White Bar. But there is one shining example in Pi- cheese. Coupled with its smart wine list raeus that, for now at least, still remains a true and comfy-cosy hospitable atmosphere, insider secret it has been studi& Forks is definitely one to add to Don’t pick up- aeven copywhile of Richard Pine’s new Corks whimsically titled book, Greece Through ously growing a loyal army of devoted fans your Piraeus repertoire! BONES 5 Irish Eyes, expecting a lilting paean to his adopted home. over the past three years. The utterly charming Akti Themistokleous & Pargas, Piraeus, While Booth and Bones take the next step in their lives, the other members of the Jeffersonian are adjusting to Corks & Forks, opposite Marina Zeas. 215.515.9792, www.corksandforks.gr
Neighbourhood Hero
BOOKS
The Reluctant Provocateur
Don’t pick up a copy of Richard Pine’s new whimsically titled book, Greece Through Irish Eyes, expecting a lilting paean to his adopted home. Penned after 15 years of living in this country, the leading Irish literary critic has instead delivered an insightful but provocative report card on Greece today. When the Irish author was asked to produce a book based around his regular “Greece Letter” column in the Irish Times, instinctively, he knew that to be authentic, it couldn’t be another “I Love Greece” tome. Loving and mourning Greece went hand in hand, Pine said memorably at his book launch in Athens recently. Pine’s trenchant, talking-point arguments
the change, with Aubrey taking up his new role in the FBI. Wednesdays at 21.00 on Foxlife.
concede both the strengths and the weaknesses of Greece today, and draw parallels Watch FOX on OTE TV with the Irish situation. In particular, Greece through Irish Eyes examines the shared his- CINEMA THIS WEEK tory of Ireland and Greece in wars of independence and civil wars; in the pandemic of clientelism; in the Church/State nexus; in the power of political dynasties; and in economic crises. Pine also pays special attention to the family values of honour, loyalty, and economy, arguing that these lie at the heart of Greek SPECTRE society and culture. He graphically describes A cryptic message from Bond’s past sends him on a the effects of austerity on society and the trail to uncover a sinister organisation, while M battles economy, with up-to-the-minute accounts of political forces to keep the secret service alive, in this the new government’s attempts to renegoti- eagerly awaited return of the Daniel Craig-rebooted ate Greece’s bailout. He strongly criticises the franchise. intransigence of bureaucracy, the pervasiveness of bribery and corruption and the continuing threats of terrorism and fascism. Richard Pine also calls for a major rethink on Greek and Irish positions on Europe. The parallels between Ireland and Greece may not always make for comfortable reading, but they are substantiated by solid examples of LOVE THE COOPERS cultural, economic and historical differences When four generations of the Cooper clan come towhich argue against integration into a centre- gether for their annual Christmas Eve celebration, a series of unexpected visitors and unlikely events turn dominated Europe. the night upside down, resulting in a surprising redisGreece Through Irish Eyes, covery of family bonds and festive spirit in this all-star Liffey Press, €19.95 seasonal ensemble.
EXHIBITION
THEATRE JASON AND THE GOLDEN FLEECE Embark on Argo in a breathtaking journey with Jason and the Argonauts as they attempt to bring home the Golden Fleece in Greek mythology’s most legendary epic journey, told in a lavish family production, directed by renowned choreographer Sofia Spyratou, starting November 21 at Badminton Theater. Zografou, www.abcd.gr
EXHIBITION
FESTIVAL
GREECE UNDER THE SEA Dive into the watery wonderland dwelling beneath our seas in this stunning free photographic display: ‘In One Breath: Greece under the Sea” that evokes the sensation of deep sea immersion, at the Eugenides Foundation, Leoforos Sygrou, eugenfound.edu.gr until December 31.
ORIENTAL PASSION FESTIVAL Showcasing dance and music from the Middle East and India, returns to the Athinais Cultural Centre, November 26-29, with modern and traditional dance, and a rare appearance from Egyptian diva Dina. Kastorias 34-36, orientalpassionfestivalgreece.com
SPECIAL PROMOTION
Picasso and Cocteau :
A Modernist Duet Insider celebrates the subversive bond between Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau – the theme of a dynamic new exhibition.
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John Lennon and Paul McCartney. William and Dorothy Wordsworth. Sydney Pollack and Robert Redford. Throughout the ages, the artistic world has frequently been gifted by the intense and synergistic power that is the Creative Partnership. Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau – both born during the twilight years of the 19th Century – are two such creative powerhouses. Their prolific collaboration, spanning nearly fifty years, played a vital role in the Modernism Movement, and is now the subject of a dynamic exhibition in Athens: “Pablo Picasso - Jean Cocteau: Innovators of Modernism”. The showcase, which opened last week will run until February 28, 2016, and is in itself a collaboration: between Germany’s Kunstmuseum Pablo Picasso Münster, the Foundation B. & M. Theocharakis & John Collection Kontaxopoulou. Jean Cocteau (1889-1963), the French poet, and filmmaker, best known for his novel Les Enfants Terribles, and movies Blood of a Poet and Orpheus, first met Picasso in June 1915. Picasso – arguably
one of the world’s great modern artists and co-founder of the Cubist movement - made an immediate and lasting impression on Cocteau, who considered him as one of his three masters. Their friendship
quickly became characterised by phases of intense intellectual exchanges, joint trips and creative cooperation. Within the year, Cocteau – who also counted Marlene Dietrich, Coco Chanel and Edith Piaf amongst his coterie - was pressing the Spaniard to design sets for his revolutionary ballet, Parade.
When Parade (for which Cocteau wrote the libretto, while Picasso painted the sets and costumes) was first staged at the Châtelet theater in Paris in May 1917, the impact was so ground-breaking, it caused a scandal. Cocteau wrote frequently about the anarchic quality of Picasso’s paintings, marveling at the way the artist replaced the human figure with “a splendid metaphor of lines, masses, and colours.” He would also write of the Spaniard’s “black eye that frisks you,” and that resembled “the muzzle of a gun.” Both men possessed a heretical spirit that concerned itself with authenticity and genius. Their work, with its deep and insightful truths, played an important role in the consolidation of modernism. A common reference point in their mutually provocative work was the influence of the ancient Greek spirit, with its thread of defending the freedom of love, unconventional life and liberation of thought. To Cocteau and also Picasso, who was born in Malaga, Andalusia, in 1881, the aesthetics of modernism was the aesthetics of renewal and rejuvenation: the return to ancient myths and history of culture. By challenging trivialities, ignorance and everything puritanical, and by investing their art with fascinating questions and riddles, Picasso and Cocteau led thought and action beyond the boundaries of their homeland, bestowing universality onto their art. The Athens exhibition comprises 190 representative paintings, sculpture, pottery, drawings and artistic versions of the innovative artists, highlighting their great contribution to the consolidation of modernism. All exhibited works derive from the collections of the Kunstmuseum Pablo Picasso Münster and the works of Cocteau from the John Collection Kontaxopoulou (and are accompanied by a bilingual catalog with scientifically-documenting texts).