Athens insider 136 december 2017 by Insider Publications

ATHENS INSIDER Ermou 13, 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece. T: & F: 210 729 8634 E: info@insider-magazine.gr W: athensinsider.com PUBLISHER Sudha Nair-Iliades

publisher’s

note

EDITOR IN CHIEF Amanda Dardanis BEAUTY EDITOR Katerina Vallogianni FASHION EDITOR Michail-Alexander Passos EDITOR Anita Robert CLIENT RELATIONS Krysta Foteinopoulou

Milestones always call for a moment of introspection and our sixteenth anniversary is ample reason to look back on the good, bad and the extraordinary. Despite naysayers, Insider has been stubbornly around, proud and humbled to be here, blowing out our sixteenth candle.

SOCIAL MEDIA Caroline Pateras

The good thing about milestones is that it gives you perspective. It lifts you from your immediate burning concerns to look back at sixteen years that were packed with life-altering and cathartic changes. As Athens morphed, so did we. The pre-Olympic euphoria and its after-glow soon gave way to that oft-abused word, crisis. A lot of established magazines folded, bookstores and publishing houses closed shop.

CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE John Zervos, Jeff Siger, Radhika Jha, Katerina Vallogianni, Diana Farr Louis, John Carr, Leo Nuovo, Sherri Moshman Paganos

So it is with a lot of humility that we look back on our role as chroniclers of these extraordinary sixteen years; recorders of the epic changes that the capital has undergone as our magazine evolved in content and circulation.

PHOTOS Maria-Irene Moschonas, Kostas Mpekas, Jill Baker

It meant meeting some of the most gifted talents of our generation (see The Insider Hall of Fame), sharing in our pages a refined side of Athens, and of Greece, that few had done before. We celebrated the Greek spirit, the new post-crisis dynamism and defiant energy that induced comparisons to other vibrant cities around the world. Insider documented that spirit, this eagerness to prove a point as the world watched our every move (re-live that journey in our Anniversary Special, Athens, You’ve come a Long Way, Baby).

GRAPHIC DESIGN Katerina Derviniotis ACCOUNTS Dimosthenis Therianos

LEGAL COUNSEL Christos Christopoulos PREPRESS & PRINTING Grafima FOUNDER Steve Pantazopoulos SUBSCRIPTIONS Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 30, Abroad € 60 Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 20, Abroad € 60 Both magazines in Greece € 50, Abroad € 90. Also published in Chinese, Russian, Turkish and Arabic. Prices include VAT and postage. Athens Insider is published bimonthly and its brand, logo and editorial content is held worldwide by INSIDER PUBLICATIONS LTD. ISSN 1790-3114 Code 216548 Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made any effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.

And as Greece has continued to inspire us – so too has it played muse to countless scribes who have immortalized Greece in their own words. Celebrating these writers and Athens’ cultural renaissance, we will be staging two engaging events next year as part of the city’s stint as World Book Capital 2018, and featuring some of Greece’s best literary ambassadors. Like any other sixteen-year-old, we thought it was time that we experimented with our image too. So in the best makeover tradition, we have re-invented ourselves with a soon-to-be-launched website (athensinsider.com) to best reflect our beloved city with a new contemporary voice and appearance. We wouldn’t be here though, if it hadn’t been for the unwavering support and loyalty of our readers, advertisers, partners and talented team of contributors to see us through every trying day. Every word of encouragement we have received, every compliment and every criticism has spurred us on to keep going (shoestring budgets, skeletal staff and all). Like Greece itself, it turns out that the crucial ingredients are limitless energy, a healthy dose of creativity - and a belief in a brighter, bolder future. Wishing each one of you a wonderful and restful holiday season and a prosperous year ahead. Sudha Nair-Iliades

co n t r i bu t o r s

Amanda Dardanis A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from politics, tourism and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph. Michail-Alexander Passos With an MBA from Leicester University, UK and a Finance degree from Piraeus University, MichailAlexander is a brand consultant and strategist with 8 years of combined experience in the fields of fashion marketing, branding and consulting. With a degree from the London College of Fashion, he established Fashion Assured, an Athens-based fashion marketing agency in 2014 and launched his own fashion label, The Motley Goat in 2016. John Carr Born in North Staffordshire, John Carr read sociology at Leicester University. He has been a Greek correspondent for the Associated Press, Wall Street Journal Europe, The Times London and Vatican Radio since 1978, and dabbles in acting and choir-singing. He has published several books including, The America Capsule (2005), Sparta’s Kings (2012), The Defence and Fall of Greece 1940-41 (2013), and the hugely popular Greekisms for Dummies (2016) John Zervos John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes, reminisces of smoky rembetika bars and elegant Kolonaki women brunching at Zonar’s and tells the story of Athens as few do. Diana Farr Louis Diana moved from New York to Athens in 1972 and has since authored three cookbooks, Prospero’s Kitchen, Feasting and Fasting in Crete and, most recently, A Taste of Greece, as well as a handful of guidebooks and travel books, and dozens of articles for publications in Greece and abroad. She has a monthly column called Eating Well is the Best Revenge on weeklyhubris.com and is a regular contributor to culinarybackstreets.com. Leo Nuovo Leo Nuovo is a Classics major at the University of Massachusetts and is spending the year studying in Athens. He is passionate about all forms of writing and enjoys reading in his spare time. Radhika Jha Radhika studied anthropology at Amherst College and did her Masters in Political Science at the University of Chicago. She is the author of four critically acclaimed books – Lanterns on their Horns (2009), Smell (2001) (Prix Guerlain 2002), The Elephant & The Maruti (2004), and My Beautiful Shadow (2014) and has been translated into 24 languages. She composes and performs Odissi dancing. Radhika has lived in Tokyo, Beijing and now, Athens. Katerina Vallogianni Katerina has been a business editor and producer of business conferences for the last 18 years with extensive experience in the media, fashion and beauty industries. She was a guest lecturer at the Athens University of Economics and Business’ MBA programme on Fashion and is a jury member of the annual global advertising competition, Epica Awards. Sherri Moshman Paganos Sherri Moshman Paganos left Manhattan in the mid-80s for a two year Greek sojourn that has turned into a 30-year career as an educator, non-fiction writer and poet. Her artistic fetishes are traditional cuisines, open sea swimming, outdoor cinema and exploring Athens’ inner city neighbourhoods such as Plaka and Thiseio on foot.

A big thank you to all our interns: Sarah Hoefner, Cameron Plath, Sasha Hixson, Jill Baker, Marie Vencil, Nikki Anderson, Will Edwards, Cheyenne Danforth. 2

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The Insider Hall of Fame

MEMOIR Poetic Interlude

LITERATURE SPECIAL Tell a Tale of Greece

Five Great Bookshop Cafes in Athens

A Lesson on Lesvos

As Athens Insider turns Sweet Sixteen, we share our favourite moments, memories and milestones. A rollcall of some of the famous faces and illustrious names that have graced our pages over the years.

City chronicler John Zervos revives Athenian escapades with Allen Ginsburg and Alan Ansen - those two great American Beat Generation poets.

Arts & events - 6

co n t en t s

ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL Athens, You’ve come a Long Way, Baby

Your Ultimate List of Great Greek Reads - as Athens prepares to be crowned World Book Capital 2018. We join the slow living movement at the capital’s most welcoming book nooks. Master story-teller Jeff Siger digests the human tragedy that inspired his latest novel.

Five Great Bookshop Cafes in Athens - 28

BUSINESS On Top of the World

NOSTALGIA When Walter Met Zorba

HUMOUR Five Things You should Never Say in Greece!

TRAVEL Let it Snow

The Call of Delphi

What to Pack for an Arachova Escape

STYLE Greek by Design

The Bare Necessities

Qatar Airways’ Jonathan Harding on the carrier’s gamechanging debut.

Remembering the celebrated cinematographer Walter Lassally, the man who made Zorba’s dance immortal.

The Call of Delphi - 48

From historic city hamlets to stylish alpine escapes, Insider shares five blissfully cosy winter retreats.

How to dress the part for Greece’s most cosmopolitan and chic alpine retreat.

The Greek design stars that should be on your radar and in your wardrobe! Orsalia Parthenis on the business of longevity in an ephemeral world. 4

When Walter Met Zorba - 37

Let it Snow - 42

Indian novelist Radhika Jha on the Ancient Navel of the World.

The Insider Hall of Fame - 14

How to avoid verbal offence and live happily ever after here in the Great Olive Belt.

Top 6 Fashion Trends

Greek Fashion Takes Front Row

All Things Bright and Beautiful

Insider forecasts the 6 need-to-know trends to help you rock it in 2018. Insider catches up with Antigoni Vintiadi, the innovator behind Andydote Fashion Fair.

Insider’s Guide to Athens’ Best Shopping Malls - 64

Cosmetic inspiration to see you through the bright days and nights ahead.

Insider’s Guide to Athens’ Best Shopping Malls 64 How to get the best from our favourite Athens shopping destinations this Christmas.

GASTRONOMY Two Classic Greek Christmas Sweets

Diana Farr Louis’ festive tribute to two Greek national treasures: Melomakarona and Kourabiedes.

Two Classic Greek Christmas Sweets - 68

Top 6 Fashion Trends - 58

Restaurant and Bar Report: Healing cocktails at the GB Roof Garden Bar 72 An artful foodie encounter at Sense 73 Sugar and spice and all things nice at Mama Thai 74 Persian flavour invasion at Anahita 76

An artful foodie encounter at Sense - 73

Healing cocktails at the GB Roof Garden Bar - 72

Tell a Tale of Greece - 21

A Lesson on Lesvos - 32

Cover image: Courtesy of Anamnesia

Arts & Events

Until December 31

December 2-January 2

SNFCC Be enthralled by this utterly modern re-take on Charles Perrault’s enduring ballet classic set to Tchaikovsky’s music. This impressive new version of Sleeping Beauty - from two acclaimed artists: Swedish choreographer, film maker and dancer Pontus Lidberg and British set and costume designer Patrick Kinmonth - is a high note of the Greek National Opera’s first artistic period at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. The highlyvisual production moves through the four seasons of the year, symbolizing birth, love, life, and death. Tickets €15-60. Stavros Niarchos Hall, Syngrou 365, tel: 216.809.1000, www.snfcc.org

Technopolis Athens’ biggest and most magical Christmas theme park spreads festive joy to young and old for the fifth year running. Kids can meet Santa, explore his sweet factory, or whiz around in his sleigh on the “Tornado” roller coaster. Christmas Factory also features imaginative games, creative performances, toy workshops, special guests – and a Christmas bazaar. Entry €5.50. Gazi Technopolis, Kerameikos, Peiraios 100, tel: 210.898.1739, www.thechristmasfactory.gr.

SLEEPING BEAUTY

December 15-23

RUSSIAN CIRCUS ON ICE

Faliro Olympic Indoor Hall (Tae Kwon Do) See breathtaking stunts, hypnotic effects and dazzling costumes take centre stage as 40 acrobats and dancers from the worldfamous Russian Circus on Ice make their Athens debut this Christmas Season, with a spectacular production of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Snow Queen. One of Christian Andersen’s most powerful tales, this is the story of friendship and the triumph of love over wickedness as Young Gerda battles the evil snow queen in order to save the soul of Kai, the man she loves. Tickets €8-30. Koumoundourou 22, Palaio Faliro, tel: 210.921.3310.

CHRISTMAS FACTORY

December 20-30

THE NUTCRACKER

Megaron Mousikis What is Christmas without The Nutcracker? Enjoy this tender and timeless festive classic performed by the famous Grigorovich Ballet Theater of Russia. A perfect festive partnership! The production features leading soloists from the Bolshoi and costumes by the much - awarded Simon Virsaladze. The Grigorovich company has previously sold out 26 productions in Athens, so don’t ponder for too long! Tickets €15-60 Vassilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, tel: 210.728.2333, www.megaron.gr Until early January 2018

ICE ARENA

Megaron Mousikis Enjoy the thrill of ice-skating at this fantastic all-weather rink this winter! Ice Arena – the city’s most festive rink - is 375 square meters of skating surface in a cosy tent-enclosed space in the Megaron’s Atrium. Cost is €10 for an unlimited time and includes skate rental. Private lessons are also available and cost €10 for 15 minutes (arranged by appointment). Open daily from 11am-11pm; and weekends from 11am-11 pm. Vassilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, tel: 210.728.2000, www.megaron.gr

A R T S

E V E N T S

Until March 5, 2018

VINCENT VAN GOGH ALIVE

Megaron Mousikis More than 3,000 paintings, sketches and animated images of the great Dutch Master enliven Athens as part of a major multi-media exhibition seen by 10 million people around the world.The showcase redefines a traditional museum experience, displaying Van Gogh’s masterpieces in larger-than-life proportions (in a space of 1,500 m²), and using a vibrant symphony of light, sound and colour that effectively conveys the singular style of his game-changing creations. Vassilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, tel: 210.728.2333, www.megaron.gr Until January 14, 2018

SCIENCE FICTION: A JOURNEY INTO THE UNKNOWN

Onassis Cultural Centre From Jules Verne and Jonathan Swift to Star Wars and Ex Machina, this immersive Science Fiction forum probes nostalgically into what the future used to look like. Before it actually arrived in the form of CGI, hoverboards and driverless cars! The OCC’s latest collaboration with London’s Barbican Centre, the event features exhibits such as prosthetic masks from the Alien movies, Spock’s spacesuit from Star Trekand a space transporter relic used in the 1960s television series Land of the Giants. Syngrou Av., 107-109, www.sgt.gr December 17

6TH RUN THE LAKE

Vouliagmeni Lake Challenge yourself at one of the Athens running calendar’s most scenic 10km race routes, around beautiful Lake Vouliagmeni. Organised by the Council of Vari Voula and Vouliagmeni, and the “EFKLIS” Association of Southern Suburbs, this popular annual charity race also takes competitors by the sea. Registered runners are allowed to swim for free in the thermal waters of Lake Vouliagmeni afterwards. Children aged between 8 and 14 can also participate for free in a 2km event starting at 9am. Visit www.runthelake.gr for registration information. Limnis Vouliagmenis, Vouliagmeni Until February 25, 2018

FORTRESS OF SOLITUDE

NEON at the Museum of Cycladic Art Homelessness in all its spiritual and psychological forms is the theme of this evocative monographic exhibition by Mike Kelley, an influential commentator on American class and popular culture.Kelley sought to explore how we constantly attempt to create ourselves from our unreliable and unstable memories of our own past. Curated by Douglas Fogle, Fortress of Solitude brings together a range of seminal works from across the American artist’s career (1954-2012) in order to reflect on the uncanny psychological homelessness of the contemporary world. Stathatos Mansion, Vassilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1, www.neon.org.gr December 13-17

PILOBOLUS

Megaron Mousikis Marvel at the acclaimed American modern dance company whose ground-breaking performances inspire awe in audiences all over the world. Their landmark production Shadowland is a helter-skelter mash-up of shadow act, dance, circus and concert depicting the strange dreams of a teenage girl. Tickets €32-54. Vassilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, tel: 210.728.2333, www.megaron.gr

Until December 6

BURYING TREASURES IN WORLD WAR II

National Archaeological Museum Learn about the great disappearing acts of ancient Greek treasures that protected them from German marauders and air raids during World War II. In a riveting display of photographic work entitled “In the Shadow of the Great War: capturing memories of Museums before and after the Occupation”, the National Archeological Museum (NAM) and the Archeological Museum of Delphi collaborate to show how the two museums toiled heroically to conceal and protect their most precious artifacts during the Second World War by hiding them in concrete-fortified trenches reminiscent of mass graves underneath the National Archeological Museum. 28is Oktovriou 44, tel: 213.214.4800, www.nam.gr Until December 22

JULIO BITTENCOURT

Casa do Brasil View works by the important Brazilian contemporary photographer Julio Bittencourt in a new cultural space at the Embassy of Brazil in Athens. The exhibition, “n a window of Prestes Maia 911 building” looks at the homeless squatters of an abandoned high-rise, once thought to be one of the most modern buildings in Latin America. Vassilisis Sofias 23, tel: 210.721.3039 8

Until January 21

IZNIK CERAMICS

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art With their bright palettes and energizing designs, Iznik ceramics from the 16th century Ottoman period are having a moment in the sun. That’s if they ever went out of fashion! This exhibition shines the spotlight on these much-loved ceramics of the Ottoman period, specifically the 16th century specimens from the city of Iznik in Asia Minor. Much admired and sought-after during their own time – as well as during the 19th century and today – the Izniks are widely considered one of the finest achievements in the history of ceramics and did much to influence Greek ceramic artistry. Koumpari 1, 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr December 10

40TH MARIA CALLAS GRAND PRIX

SNFCC Talented young laureates of the Maria Callas Grand Prix vie to catch the ear of industry heavy weights. This week-long musical talent hunt aims to unearth tomorrow’s stars, while preparing budding artists for the rigorous demands of the world of opera. The finale, which starts at 7.30pm, is open to the public and is also attended by agents and opera artistic directors. Stavros Niarchos Hall, Greek National Opera, Evripidou & Doiranis St, Kallithea, www.snfcc.org

A R T S

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Until January 21

WHEN THE LIGHT DANCES, I SPEAK FAIRLY

B&M Theocharakis Foundation A celebration of Nobel Laureate George Seferis’s ‘lyrical writing, that captures the essence of Hellenic culture,’ through art. Curated by Takis Mavrotas, the exhibition includes manuscripts, personal memorabilia, paintings by George Seferis himself, as well as works by leading Greek artists – Nikos HadjikyriakosGhika, Yannis Tsarouchis, Tassos, Yannis Moralis, Panayiotis Tetsis, Costas Tsoclis, Alekos Fassianos, Yiannis Psychopedis, Christos Bokoros, Manolis Charos and many more – who were inspired by Seferis’s poems. Opening hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., with a later closing, at 8 p.m., on Thursday. Vassilissis Sofias 9 & Merlin, tel: 210.361.1206, www.thf.gr Until January 31

METALLOGUES

Eleni Marnieri Galerie Eleni Marnieri celebrates its three decades of showcasing jewellery craftsmanship as art through its Trinity series of exhibitions. Metallogues, the second part of the series which runs until the end of January, traces the long history of human interaction with the durable world of metals. When a simple piece of metal morphs into a piece of jewellery, it becomes a power statement, a seduction tool, a protector from evil forces. Lebessi 5-7, Makriyanni, tel. 210.861.9488 Until December 10

DEMONS

Onassis Cultural Centre Dostoyevsky’s nihilistic masterpiece about a 19th century Russian town shifted has been transported to present day Greece in this epic stage production by Konstantin Bogomolov, the “enfant terrible” of the Russian theatre scene. Dostoyevsky’s Demons (written in 1872) focuses on the activities of a circle of young nihilists. According to Bogomolov, however, Demons is less about nihilism and socialism than it is about a passion for life and the allure of death. Featuring English sub-titles. Main Stage, Syngrou Av. 107, tel: 210.900.5800, www.sgt.gr Until April 15

MONEY

Museum of Cycladic Art Explore money’s enduring symbology from the earliest forms of coinage to ancient Greek banking practices and the evolution of currency. Money: Tangible symbols in Ancient Greece - in cooperation with the Alpha Bank Numismatic Collection - looks at how, historically, coins have also been used to transmit ideas, status and propaganda. Admission €8. Neofytou Douka 4, tel 210.722.8321-3, www.cycladic.gr

A N N I V E R S A R Y

S P E C I A L

Athens, You ’ve Come a Long Way, Baby … As Athens Insider magazine turns Sweet Sixteen, join us as we share some of our city’s favourite moments, memories and milestones.

Sixteen years ago, in November 2001, the same year that Greece joined the Euro jolly, a humble new magazine called Inside Out ventured into being. It started life as a helpful guide for expatriates and tourists; but soon, established itself as a rather sophisticated and refined publication, successfully capturing the spirit of a metropolis in dramatic flux. In the lead-up to the 2004 Olympics, under the world’s gaze, there was a tangible new-found dynamism on the wind and a welcome wave of cultural and infrastructure projects on the ground – all of it forever changing the way Athenians worked, lived, commuted and entertained. We responded with compelling articles on art and culture, features on the city’s hidden secrets and interviews with international and local personalities. With this engaging formula, the newly re-branded Insider soon became a respected reference point for the international community living here and for curious travellers visiting Greece on business and leisure.

Now, nearly 200 issues – and an unthinkable amount of caffeine and late nights – later, we’re still here; proudly bearing witness to this incorrigible and addictive city. In an era where print is in dismal decline, we are the only English-language lifestyle magazine still sold on the newsstand in Greece, (an accomplishment we are extremely proud of). Certainly we’re a bit more streamlined than our pre-crisis Salad Days. But we’re more multi-lingual too (Insider publishes in four other 10

languages: French, Russian, Japanese and Chinese). Definitely we’re more digitised. In 2008, we launched our Insider website (watch this space for our stylish new site any day now!). Meanwhile, our hugely popular Insider Weekly newsletter – a timely free distillation of all the best elements of our magazine grows exponentially each month. Of course, we’re not the only ones to have changed. In the time it’s taken to cycle through nine Greek Prime Ministers (go ahead and count them!), Athens has undergone an astonishing metamorphosis in just about every sphere. On the gastronomic front, we’ve watched our favourite classic tavernas – and some pretty mediocre ones too – be augmented by stunning international openings, tempting us with molecular gastronomy and exotic fusion cuisines, along with Michelin-starred hotspots. Miraculous mixologists at the top of their game have elevated Athens’ bar scene to give London and New York a run for their mojitos. Greek tourism is on steroids with visitor numbers forecast to hit the 30 million mark in 2018. Green shoots of recovery are sprouting everywhere as waves of foreign investment transform the face of Athens’ luxury hotel landscape. Speaking of green, slowly, slowly we’re getting the message, with the escalation of pedestrianized urbanisation, city bike schemes and recycling initiatives that would have fallen on fallow ground – and deaf ears - sixteen years ago. We’ve seen an explosion of sports tourism all across Greece and the islands, as we’ve learned to market our natural assets. (Our ancient classic marathon is now on the bucket list of elite distance runners the

A N N I V E R S A R Y world over.) Culturally-speaking, Athens has become a Millennial Magnet. We have outdoor cinemas on every island and countless international film festivals and erudite exhibitions to enliven and enlighten us at new worldclass venues (Onassis Cultural Centre, SNFCC, Gagosian Gallery to name a few). Top notch music festivals with international line-ups like Ejekt, Release and Rockwave to entertain and thrill us. This new cosmopolitan mindset has spread to the suburbs where chic wine bars, sushi bars, artisanal delis and modernised parks have radically enhanced our day-to-day lifestyles. In our sixteenth year, it rather feels that we have both come full circle, Athens and Insider. The optimism and spirit of invention that we embarked with back then is now in clear evidence everywhere again as Athens eagerly embraces a new creative renaissance – and so do we.

We’ve been with you for the good times ... 2001 Greece joins the Euro. Athens gets a new airport Eleftherios Venizelos International - and the beginnings of a modern new

S P E C I A L motorway – the Attiki Odos – to connect it.

2002 Spondi and Varoulko join the Michelin bandwagon as the first two Greek restaurants to be awarded gastronomy’s ultimate prize.

2003 Part of Ermou becomes pedestrianized (the section from Agion Assomaton to Peiraios) as part of the preOlympic Pretty Up (Grand Promenade Project).

2004 It opened mere minutes before our Olympic visitors pitched up, but the new Athens Metro System remains the envy of many other European capitals. It’s clean, safe, efficient and cheap (and in some stations, even has priceless antiquities displayed like museum halls). This year, we also pull off Mission Impossible to win the Euro 2004, beating bookmakers’ odds and giving the national psyche an incredible pre-Olympic boost. In August, with the world’s eyes upon us and expecting us to drop the ball, Greece puts on one hell of a show for the Games of the XXVIII Olympiad.

2005

2009

Greece wins Eurovision for the first time in May with Elena Paparizou’s My Number One. In November, Athens’ first American-style shopping mall opens (but not without some good old Greekstyle scandal). The Mall in Maroussi was built on 60,000-odd square metres of former sheep grazing land pledged as an Olympic Village for foreign media.

The opening of the new Acropolis Museum elevates Athens to a contemporary and world-class cultural destination (and fuels the debate over the Elgin Marbles). Kiki Dimoula, Greece’s favourite national poet, is awarded the European Prize for Literature for her frank, sharp and sparse verses on national disillusionment and state homelessness.

2006 With Foustanellas (the multipleated short white skirts worn by evzone soldiers), goddess dresses, village-made cropped vests, and harem pants, Jean Paul Gaultier sets out on a chic Grecian odyssey in his Tribute to Greece 2006 collection. Two cultural milestones as Dakis Joannou’s DESTE Foundation’s newly-renovated building in Nea Ionia is inaugurated in a former sock factory as a vital new centre of artistic endeavour and learning. Patras is elected as the European Culture Capital for 2006.

2007 Gordon Ramsay, Alain Ducasse, George Calombaris and a slew of celebrity chefs gather in Greece to celebrate Mediterranean cuisine. The UEFA Champions League Final football match between AC Milan and Liverpool FC is held at the Olympic Stadium.

2008 Mamma Mia starring Meryl Streep, Pierce Brosnan and Colin Firth is filmed on Skiathos and Skopelos and goes on to be a global smash. On the heels of the success of his book, Moi, le petitfils d’un Grec, French President Sarkozy gives a rousing speech at the Greek Parliament. The Greek Beijing Olympics contingent returns with two silvers and two bronze medals. 12

2010 A record number of runners compete in the 28th Athens Marathon, on the 2,500th anniversary of the battle of Marathon. The Onassis Cultural Centre, referred to fondly by Athenians as the Stegi, opens in December 2010 as a contemporary cultural icon. Keen to give something back to Greece, Victoria Hislop spurns Hollywood offers and her best-selling novel The Island is adapted as a 26-part drama To Nisi, becoming the most successful television series ever broadcast in Greece.

2011 Competing for the Best Foreign Language Oscar is Dog tooth, a 2009 Greek drama directed by Yorgos Lanthimos about a husband and wife who keep their children ignorant of the world outside well into adulthood. Greek designer Mary Katrantzou seduces fashionistas and the world’s fashion press at her first stand-alone show with her surreal digital masterpieces.

2012 The Mayans predict the end is upon us and Greece is neck-deep in its economic crisis, but, paradoxically, fine dining gets a vote. Newcomers Funky Gourmet receive two Michelin stars and join Spondi, the only other Greek restaurant with twin stars. Greece proves that its 2004 Euro win wasn’t a fluke by making it to the semis, only to be beaten by Germany.

A N N I V E R S A R Y

S P E C I A L

2013

2016

“Greek Freak” Giannis Antetokounmpo joins the NBA by signing his first rookie contract with the Milwaukee Bucks.

Greek islanders who have been on the frontline of the refugee crisis are nominated for the Nobel peace prize for supporting refugees who enter Europe via rickety boats. The wrapping paper finally comes off the Stavros Niarchos Foundation’s spectacular new €596 million Cultural Centre and Parklands, designed by worldfamous architect Renzo Piano, and further cementing Athens’ reputation as a European cultural hub. (The Greek National Opera and National Library of Greece move there in 2017.) In November, US President Barack Obama delivers his legacy speech at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre about the impact of democracy.

2014 Greek tourism crosses the 20 million mark and Greece assumes the EU Presidency in a year that challenges the country’s euro credentials. But archaeologists and culture buffs are warmed by the discovery of a tomb at Amphipolis, possibly linked to Alexander the Great.

2015 While Greece’s real-life drama remains centrestage, its foremost cultural event - and one of the oldest performing arts festivals in Europe - the Athens & Epidaurus Festival, turns 60.

2017 The influential art forum Documenta14 is staged in Athens – the first time in the event’s high-brow history that it has travelled outside of Germany.

… and the Bad Referenda and refugee crises, capital controls and endless strikes, political scandals, (near-miss) Grexits and Brexits, fires, floods and earthquakes.

Chanel Muse Anna Mouglalis

Media Maven Arianna Huffington

Celebrity Chef Nobu

The Insider Hall of Fame Over the past sixteen years, our magazine has hosted everyone from fashion designers and their muses, actors and poets, captains of industry, musicians and conductors, artists and curators, sommeliers and chefs, academicians, diplomats and Olympic athletes, jewellery designers, historians, ship-owners and politicians, writers, refugees and restaurateurs. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a small sampling of sixteen famous faces and illustrious names that have graced our pages:

Fashion Force Mary Katrantzou

Master Chef Gordon Ramsay

Best-selling Author Victoria Hislop

Art Duo Gilbert and George

Literary Legend Michael Ondaatje

Restaurateur Michel Roux

Olympic Champion Eleftherios Petrounias

Style Maverick Jean Paul

Fashion Mentor Diane von Furstenburg

Couture King Pierre-Alexis Dumas of Hermes

Artist Dimitris Mytaras

Soul Diva Imany

Screen Queen Nia Vardalos

Fast Lane

Stephen Fry’s Greek Odyssey Fans of storyteller Stephen Fry’s wonderfully droll and elegant delivery will adore his new 21st century repackaging of the myths of Ancient Greece. The much-loved British thesp has released “Mythos: The Greek Myths Retold”, just in time for Christmas; providing a classy and educational gift idea for that “hard to buy for” Grecophile in your life.

From Camp to Campus An empowering new scholarship programme has given 78 young refugees the chance to follow their academic dreams here in Greece. The First Semester of “Education Unites: From Camp to Campus”, commenced in October, and is the vision of the U.S. Embassy Athens, in collaboration with the American College of Thessaloniki (Anatolia College), Deree (The American College of Greece) and Perrotis College (American Farm School).

Don’t expect to encounter the more famous jaunts like Troy and Odysseus, Agamemnon and Clytemnestra, Jason, Medea and the Argonauts or the Labours of Heracles though. Fry’s beautifully-designed 432-page opus concerns itself mostly with the birth of the universe and the creation of humankind: from Hesiod’s Theogony, Apuleius’s Latin novel The Golden Ass (Cupid and Psyche), and Ovid’s Metamorphoses (Arachne, Midas, Echo and Narcissus). Through the actor’s inventive and erudite treatment, you’ll witness Athena born from the cracking open of Zeus’s great head; follow Persephone down into the dark realm of Hades. Experience the endless terrible fate of Prometheus after his betrayal of Zeus and shiver as Pandora opens her jar of evil torments

Mythos: The Greek Myths Retold (published by Michael Joseph and available from Amazon) is also available in audio CD for those who prefer the melodious charms of Fry’s voice to his witty scrawlings.

Among those enrolled in the potentially life-changing classes include a young Afghan man who dreams of becoming a pilot; a young woman from Pakistan who wants to become an electrical engineer; a Syrian law student from Aleppo who left her studies unfinished, and a Syrian man who wants to pursue economic and entrepreneurship studies; as well as dozens of other young students who can now aspire to a professional career, a better future, and the possibility of making an essential contribution to any community where they settle. The Education Unites beneficiaries will also attend preparatory English classes, and courses in various fields based on their previous knowledge and academic training. As this young Syrian wrote in his application: “... the thought that I will have the opportunity to study, and do what I do best, has already put a smile on my face.”

For further information on future academic opportunities for more young refugees under the Education Unites program, visit gr.usembassy.gov/education-unites/

Armani Exchange comes to Town Christmas came early for us this year (in September, actually) when one of our favourite fashion brands arrived in Athens! Greece’s first Armani Exchange boutique opened its doors on the first floor of the Golden Hall shopping mall in Maroussi, making it our new first port of call when it comes to sourcing sophisticated street style and active wear staples for men, women and children (we especially love their bomber jackets and over-sized blouses). Best of all, this modern line of the famous Italian fashion house channels Armani’s signature luxury and aesthetic with affordable price tags that won’t burn your budget.

Armani Exchange, Golden Hall, T: 211.181.4270, W: armaniexchange.com 16

Athens gets footloose at Social Ballroom Wouldn’t Real Life be so much more pleasant if people broke out into spontaneous dancing from time to time, just like in Footloose? Or pretty much any Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire film? Clearly, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre thinks so – and perhaps they’re onto something. Their free monthly dance workshops, reviving some of our best-loved dance genres from yesteryear, are attracting a big following. The idea is joyously simple. A one-hour dance lesson with an experienced dance teacher, mastering the basic techniques, followed by a live-music party - with an orchestra or DJ - where participants are encouraged to practise the steps they’ve just learned in a relaxed, fun and non-judgy environment. It’s a fantastic way to exercise, de-stress, live in the moment and make new friends. “There’s a really friendly atmosphere with people from seven to seventy,” reports Insider’s French Editor Anita Robert, who’s now attended two Social Ballrooms at SNFCC (rock ‘n roll and salsa). “You’ve got young hipsters dancing next to old yia-yias! It really reminded me of the old French tradition of bar populaire where people would go to dance - and meet their future husbands or wives! - in their local village square. Before we all started going to nightclubs.” Since kicking off in January 2017, Social Ballroom has brought together people of all ages and abilities in dance styles including samba, swing, rock n’roll, lindy hop, boogie-woogie, tango and disco.

Lighthouse, SNFCC, Leof. Syngrou 365, tel: 216.809.1000. Check W: snfcc.org for details of the next event.

Greece courts Hollywood Did anyone else’s heart break just a little at the news that Croatia, and not Greece, will be the backdrop for the next instalment of Mamma Mia, which comes out next summer? The fictional Greek island of Kalokairi takes centrestage once more. But this time, thanks to this country’s obstructive environment for filmmakers, Universal Pictures saw fit to move the production of Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again to the island of Vis, off the Dalmatian Coast. With Greece’s surfeit of historic locations and our epic geography, by rights, we should be one of the best open-air studios in the world. But every dark cloud... The humiliating loss of the Mamma Mia sequel may have finally convinced the Greek Government of the need to be more competitive. (The 2008 global smash, starring Meryl Streep and Pierce Brosnan, grossed over $600 million worldwide and gave a substantial boost to local tourism). Under newly-enacted legislation, from 2018, overseas filmmakers will be courted with financial incentives such as a 25% tax rebate and a per-production cap of €5 million. The funds will come from a national budget of €450 million that’s been earmarked for productions over the next five years. Additionally, as reported by The Guardian, the statefunded Greek Film Commission has also pledged to set up regional offices to address bureaucratic hurdles threatening future film projects. “The impact of a film shot in an amazing location is far bigger than a promotional campaign by a tourist board,” said the head of the Hellenic Film Commission, Venia Vergou, recently. Her comments were made at the International Film Festival, on Amorgos, an island which still enjoys great fame after Luc Besson’s cult 1988 film The Big Blue became a huge commercial hit. 17

PHOTO BY D. POUPALOS - ARTWORK BY MMK DESIGN TEAM

IMP R E S SI V E COM EBACK AT SY NTAG MA S Q U A R E

Syntagma Square, Athens, Greece. Tel:+30 210 3352400â&#x20AC;¢ www.njvathensplaza.gr

Varoulko, 30 years of feasts and firsts There’s something about Lefteris Lazarou that sets him apart from other celebrity chefs. Perhaps it’s his looks: that avuncular face, his mane of grey hair, the honest brow and the guileless smile that conspire to make him more accessible. Despite over 30 years of culinary experience under his toque, and a Michelin star for 15 consecutive years, he’s managed to retain the image of a decent chef with a charming obsession about all things fishy and crustacean. It was a friend’s poem that inspired Lefteris Lazarou, 30 years ago, to name his shrine to seafood, Varoulko, Greek for winch. How appropriate then, after peripatetic wanderings around his native Piraeus, and a brief stint in Athens, that the restaurant should return to its sea-faring roots, in Mikrolimano, surrounded by sailboats and winches! It was on Distomou St. in Piraeus, that Lefteris Lazarou set up his first restaurant. A strong believer in “playing to the strengths of the area”, there was no shortage of inspiration, with boatfuls of glorious fish being brought in every day by Piraeus fishermen. Over the past three decades, Varoulko has become a shrine to piscean perfection; a pioneer in elevating Greek gastronomy to whole new levels. In 1994, Varoulko moved to Deligiorgis Street in Piraeus, where it remained until 2004. It coincided with one of the most prolific periods of Chef Lazarou’s career. International celebrities and prominent Greeks flocked to Varoulko to test his iconic dishes. Then came the next move, a handsome neo-classical building on Pireos St, the Acropolis looming in the background. But Lazarou’s love for Piraeus and the sea drew him

back to Mikrolimano and since 2014, this quaint harbour has been home to Varoulko Seaside. The restaurant has now grown to accommodate reception areas for private and corporate events, plus cooking classes in the chef’s kitchen. 2016 marked the arrival of former student Yannis Parikos as Chef de Cuisine at Varoulko. It also marked the birth of the Mary Pickford Bar, in collaboration with one of the most coveted Athenian bars, Baba Au Rum. To fete its three decades, Varoulko will be serving two special menus dedicated to flavours from the past and present – a heavenly tease on the tastebuds, all through December. The menu has evolved over the years but fish remains the absolute protagonist. The ‘Anniversary Menu’ tells the story of the restaurant through the dishes that marked its course, while the ‘Tasting Menu’ presents the restaurant in its present avatar with subtly tweaked, transformative treats.

To celebrate this milestone, Athenian fans can book at 210.522.84.00. Akti Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano

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Poetic interlude In his nostalgic series, city chronicler John Zervos recalls his days fraternizing with those two great American Beat Generation poets –Allen Ginsburg (whom this author squired around town during his sortie to the capital in 1996), and Alan Ansen, who resided mostly in Athens from the 1960s in “the tall old house on Alopekis Street”. While not as incendiary as Ginsburg, Ansen was the inspiration for the flamboyant character of Rollo Greb in Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road”. BY JOHN ZERVOS Get a call from Allen Ginsburg. He is arriving in Athens. Pick him up at his hotel and drive to Alan Ansen’s flat. On the way he asks me: ‘How are the boys in Athens now?’ I replied ‘I would not know.’ He and Alan are old friends with different agendas. Ginsburg, almost world famous, Ansen, unknown to the public. They both have enormous respect for each other. Sitting in Alan’s quotidian sitting room with the wilted flowers, the piles of newly arrived books and worn out furniture, the two poets blend their backgrounds masked in verbal carousels of poetic insight. I am just the one man audience of this literary treat and enjoying every minute. After three hours, I take Allen to Virinis taverna in Pangrati. He is wearing a surgical mask. ‘A touch of flu’ he says. A friend walks in, a young American girl, and I invite her to join us. ‘This is Allen Ginsburg’ I say by way of introduction. ‘Sure’ she says, obviously not convinced.

‘In Greece, all the publishers have translated my works and published my poetry without my permission and without paying royalty fees.I consider this a great honor and would like to thank you.’ The next day Allen is giving a reading at the ‘Rex’ theatre on Panepistimiou Street. There are about 1500 people in the audience. Allen looks up and says to them, ‘In Greece, all the publishers have translated my works and published my poetry without my permission and without paying royalty fees. I consider this a great honor and would like to thank you.’ The crowd loved it. He just read one poem called ‘Smoke’. A repetitive mantra, using just the word ‘Smoke’ with an occasional ‘don’t smoke’ thrown in. I liked Ginsburg and followed his intellectual meandering over the years. He fought back poetically and almost succeeded in the invisible war of ‘injustice’. Asked about his poetry he said: ‘Poetry is not an expression of the party line. It’s that time of night, lying in bed, thinking what you really think, making the private world public, that’s what the poet does.’ I liked that.

Extract from the forthcoming memoir ‘A Life in Paradise’ by John Zervos. 20

B L l s n w s c “ W ( a s o t e b a I o S f s a r a t

B o oks a re b a c k . G r e e c e S p e c i a l . C u r l u p b y Books are back. LiteratureL i t e r a t u r e - l i n e d the fire place, c a s h m e r e lined libraries are the l i b r aries a re t h e n ew s o c k s o n y o u r f e e t , a g l a s s new stars of Instagram. stars of Instagram. And And next year, the written n e x t y e a r , t h e w r i t t e n o f b o d a c i o u s r e d ( o r c o c o a ) word will take centrew o r d w i l l t a k e c e n t r e - t o h a n d a n d w o r k y o u r w a y stage in Athens. Our city s t a g e i n A t h e n s . O u r t h r o u g h o u r u l t i m a t e w i n t e r is to be crowned “Book c i t y i s t o b e c r o w n e d r e a d i n g l i s t o f g r e a t n o v e l s Capital of the World” for “ B o o k C a p i t a l o f t h e s e t h e r e i n G r e e c e . I t ’ s t h e one year, (from April 23, W o r l d” fo r o n e y ea r , 2018) and will host a richly ( f ro m Apr i l 2 3 , 2 0 1 8 ) “A room without books is like a body without a soul.” stimulating calendar Cicero a n d will ho st a ric h l y of internationally-tilted s t imulati n g c a l en d a r cultural events, aimed at o f inte rna t i o na l l y making books accessible t i lt ed c u l t u ra l to all. In that spirit, Insider events, aimed at making brings you our Literary b o oks a c c es s i b le to Books are back. Literature-lined libraries G r e e c e S p e c i a l . C u r l u p b y a l l . In t h a t s p i r i t , are the new heroes of Instagram. And next t h e f i r e p l a c e , c a s h m e r e I n sider b r i n g s y o u year, the written word will take centre-stage s o c k s o n y o u r f e e t , a o u r L it er ar y G ree c e in Athens. Our city is to be crowned “Book g l a s s o f b o d a c i o u s r e d ( o r Special. Curl up by the Capital of the World” in 2018 and will host a c o c o a ) t o h a n d a n d w o r k f i re pla c e, c a s h m er e richly stimulating calendar of internationally- y o u r w a y t h r o u g h o u r s o c ks on yo u r f e et, ultimate winter reading list tilted cultural events, aimed at making books a g l ass o f b o d a c i o u s of great novels set here accessible to all. r ed (or c o c o a) t o h a n d in Greece. It’s the very In tandem, Athens Insider will be organising a n d work yo u r w a y essence of “hygge” (that two high-profile events next year around books t h r o ugh o u r u l t i m a t e Books are back. L - one in June and one in October – celebrating Books are back. lined libraries are Greece’s fame as a muse for foreign scribes Literature-lined libraries new stars of Insta throughout the ages. And next year, th are the new stars of written word will In that spirit, we bring you our Literary Greece Instagram. And next centre-stage in At Special. Curl up by the fire place, cashmere year, the written word Our city is to be will take centre-stage in socks on your feet, a glass of bodacious red (or crownedBookCapita Athens. Our city is to be cocoa) to hand and work your way through our World for one yea crowned “Book Capital of ultimate reading list of great novels set here in April 23, 2018 and the World” for one year, Greece. It’s the very essence of winter “hygge” host a richly stim (from April 23, 2018) calendarof interna (that famous Danish pursuit of well-being and will host a richly tilted cultural eve through simple pleasures). stimulating calendarof aimed at making Books are back. Literature-lined libraries B o o k s a r e b a c k . L i t e r a t u r e - l i n e d a r e t h e n e w s t a r s o f I n s t a g r a m . A n d n e x t l i b Καλή r a r Ανάγνωση! i e s a r e t h e n e w s t a r s o f year, the written word will take centre- I n s t a g r a m . A n d n e x t y e a r , t h e stage in Athens. Our city is to be crowned w r i t t e n w o r d w i l l t a k e c e n t r e “Book Capital of the World” for one year, s t a g e i n A t h e n s . O u r c i t y i s t o from April 23, 2018 and will host a richly b e c r o w n e d “ B o o k C a p i t a l o f stimulating calendarof internationally- t h e W o r l d ” f o r o n e y e a r , ( f r o m tilted c ultural events, aimed at making A p r i l 2 3 , 2 0 1 8 ) a n d w i l l h o s t a books accessible to all. In that spirit, Insider r i c h l y s t i m u l a t i n g c a l e n d a r o f brings you our Literary Greece Special. i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y - t i l t e d c u l t u r a Curl up by the fire place, cashmere socks e v e n t s , a i m e d a t m a k i n g b o o k s on your feet, a glass of bodacious red a c c e s s i b l e t o a l l . I n t h a t s p i r i t (or cocoa) to hand and work your way I n s i d e r b r i n g s y o u o u r L i t e r a r y through our ultimate winter reading list G r e e c e S p e c i a l . C u r l u p b y t h e of great novels set here in Greece. It’s f i r e p l a c e , c a s h m e r e s o c k s o n the very essence of “hygge” (that famous y o u r f e e t , a g l a s s o f b o d a c i o u s Danish pursuit of well-being through r e d ( o r c o c o a ) t o h a n d a n d w o r k simple pleasures). Or join the slow living y o u r w a y t h r o u g h o u r u l t i m a t e 21 movement and retreat from the mad w i n t e r r e a d i n g l i s t o f g r e a whirl at one of Athens’ welcoming book n o v e l s s e t h e r e i n G r e e c e . I t ’ s

Literature Special

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5 Great Classic Novels

set in Greece

The Colossus of Maroussi Henry Miller

The esteemed writer Henry Miller explores human nature and Greece at the same time in The Colossus of Maroussi. First published in 1941, The Colossus takes readers to recognizable sites across Greece as its writer catalogs his epic journeys. Take a moment to see Greece’s monuments through Miller’s eyes as his prose helps you philosophize about the spirit of Greece as it was in Miller’s time. This innovative take on travel writing will introduce you not only to the mighty archaeological history that Greece is so well known for, but also to esteemed Greek literary figures like the famous Greek poet George Katsimbalis.

The Magus John Fowles Suspense will pull you in to The Magus and keep you there as you find yourself turning pages through this thriller that questions reality itself. Set on a fictional Greek island called Phraxos, Fowles’ novel follows its young English protagonist as he decides to detach himself from his daily life in Paris and go teach at a school in Greece. The Magus will take you on a labyrinthine journey of understanding and misunderstanding that has confused and excited readers since its original publication in 1965. The book’s descriptions of the island of Phraxos, based off the real island of Spetses, will have readers nodding as Fowles describes the silent beauty of one of Greece’s most charming islands with intricate and talented detail. The Magus was adapted into a film in 1968. BY LEO NUOVO

There’s something about Greece’s ancient glories; her monumental contours and colours; and her characterful citizens that grabs fast to the soul of the scribe – and won’t let go until they’ve put pen to paper. From celebrated literary classics and epic travel paeans, to charming memoirs, psychological thrillers and gripping contemporary tales that allow readers to get under the skin of post-crisis Athens, Insider’s Leo Nuovo compiles your ultimate reading list of Great Greek Reads.

Tell a Tale of Greece – the Ultimate list of Great Greek Reads

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The Corfu Trilogy Gerald Durrell

Those familiar with the popular British comedy-drama The Durrells will love the original trilogy of books that inspired the series, written by Gerald Durrell. Naturalist and writer Durrell describes his time on the Greek island of Corfu in this series, comprised of three books: My Family and Other Animals, Birds, Beasts and Relatives, and The Garden of the Gods. Become familiar with the natural beauty of Corfu as Durrell guides you through his childhood on the island. Readers of this trilogy often regret that the series ends at just three of these feel-good books, but Durrell’s legacy lives on through his wildlife conservation efforts all over the world.

Roumeli and Mani Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor’s peripatetic travels took him all over Europe. His two books located in Greece: Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese, and Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece are evocative records of his journeys across Greece. His vivid descriptions of the people and landscapes of Greece meld with his knowledge of the history of the land. One of the great things about “travelogues” is that not only do they offer marvelous historical information, they also offer a time-capsule of the era in which they were written. These books from the 1960’s are no exception and can be read together or separately. Sir Patrick’s connection to Greece goes far beyond the pages of his celebrated books. Regarded as a hero by many in Crete and in Greece for his intrepid military exploits, “Paddy” made his home in Mani in the Southern Peloponnese where he mostly lived until his death in 2011.

Eleni Nicolas Gage A deeply disturbing personal account of Greece’s Civil War, still a taboo subject at dinner parties, Eleni, (published in 1983), was made into a feature film starring John Malkovich as Gage. Eleni describes the life of his family in Greece during the Second World War and Greek Civil War. Gage’s mother, Eleni, was executed for arranging the escape of her children from their Communist-occupied village. Decades later, as an adult, Gage sought out those responsible for her death. His other autobiographical memoir, A Place for Us (1989) offers a fascinating insight into his family’s experiences as Greek immigrants in 1950s America.

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5 Great Contemporary Reads set in Greece

Dinner with Persephone Patricia Storace

Dinner with Persephone is the product of Patricia Storace’s year spent living in Greece and provides a great window into everyday Greek Life. Published in 1996, this collection of essays showcases Storace’s enthusiasm for observing the world around her. Her ability to reflect on Greece and its people by drawing upon the past helps educate the reader in a way that is both personal and fun. This book may have you nodding your head as you recognise her writing about something that is part of your day-to-day life in Greece, or you may be surprised at just how much some things have changed in the twenty years since this book was published. Either way, Persephone is a smart read that will change how you look at the social landscape of Greece. Storace is recognized for her prose and her poetry – she won the Whiting award in 1996 for nonfiction and for poetry.

The Island Victoria Hislop Since the publication of Victoria Hislop’s international best-seller The Island in 2006, many visitors to Crete now include the nearby island of Spinalonga as a must-see drawcard. That’s because Hislop’s almost unbearably poignant tale of love and loss, inspired by the real-life history of this former leper colony, will leave its imprint long after you’ve turned the last page. Hislop’s skill is to weave a gripping plot around real historical events and places creating a narrative that is light enough to qualify as a relaxing beach read but intricate enough to have you feeling like you’ve learned something too.

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Euvridice Street: A Place in Athens Sofka Zinovieff

Those ready to dive into life in Greece should take a page out of Sofka Zinovieff’s Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens. Written as a record of Zinovieff’s attempts to adapt to Athens after she moves to the city with her diplomat husband, you’ll sympathize and wonder at her efforts. Her records of the Athenians living around her show curiosity and a willingness to learn that all visitors to a new country should bring with them as they explore new things. Eurydice Street was published pre-crisis in 2005 (with the capital still sporting its post-Olympics glow), and it offers a fresh and optimistic gaze at Athenian life.

Outline Rachel Cusk Have you ever wondered what it would be like to hear the stories and opinions of the people you meet along the course of your day? The protagonist of Rachel Cusk’s Outline pulls word after word from the people around her, creating characters from everyday strangers. Set during one recent Athenian Summer, this unconventional and strangely-stirring book will have you looking around at the people sitting at the coffee shop at the table across from you and wondering about the narratives within.

Blue Skies and Black Olives: A Survivor’s Tale of Housebuilding and Peacock Chasing in Greece John Humphrys

In the spirit of Under the Tuscan Sun, John Humphrys’ book about the misadventures he had while trying to get his dream house built in the Peloponnese is a terrific light read for all those who’ve ever dreamed of escaping the rat-race to another life (as many of us here have!). Blue Skies and Black Olives has a title that might have you raising an eyebrow as you wonder what building a house and chasing peacocks have in common. Thankfully, this household-name BBC presenter-turned-author manages to clear up all confusion by the time his charming tale is done. 25

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5 Gripping Thrillers

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set in Greece

The Destroyers Christopher Bollen A suspenseful psychological thriller, with the feel of a modern-day The Talented Mr. Ripley, The Destroyers is cast on Patmos, the famous island of Revelations. Bollen, who’s been compared with Graham Greene and Patricia Highsmith, reunites two childhood friends, Ian and Charlie, when the former tracks down rich, exuberant Charlie on Patmos, hoping to share in the success of his latest venture. When Charlie suddenly vanishes, Ian finds himself caught up in deception after deception in this lushly-prosed and enthralling drama about identity, power and fate, fathers and sons … and the things we delude ourselves about.

Deeper Shade of Blue Paul Johnston Paul Johnston’s most popular protagonist Alex Mavros travels all over Greece, finding himself in matters of political, historical, and personal intrigue as he performs his job as a private investigator. Currently living in Nafplio, Johnston’s knowledge of Athens and of the history of Greece adds another layer to the Mavros novels. All of Johnston’s novels set in Greece are worth a read, but the first book in the Mavros series, Crying Blue Murder, is a great place to start. The book leaves Athens, making its way to a small island off Paros, where historical framework and local conflicts add extra depth to Johnston’s mystery.

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Murder in Mykonos Jeff Siger Author Jeff Siger writes his thriller mysteries from his home base on Mykonos (not a bad day job!). The main character of his Greece-based mystery novels is Andreas Kaldis, who bounces from location to location as he dives into his investigations. A New York Times 2012 “Pick for the Beach”, Murder in Mykonos gives readers intrigue, drama, and excitement. If you’re the kind of person who likes to start at the beginning of a series, Siger’s Target: Tinos is a fine book to pick up too.

Two Faces of January Patricia Highsmith

When the title of a book (in this case it’s Two Faces of January, by Patricia Highsmith) manages to wittily allude to a Roman god (the two-faced god Janus) in its title, you know you’re in for a complex and interesting journey. The three main characters of this story visit both Athens and Crete as they come to terms with an unspeakable deed. Those familiar with archaeological sites like the ancient palace of Knossos will be able to find places they recognize from the story amidst the ruins. Hollywood adapted Highsmith’s prose into a movie starring Kirsten Dunst and Viggo Mortensen in 2014, in which rare access was granted to shoot at the Acropolis.

Deadline in Athens Petros Markaris Petros Markaris, Greece’s answer to John Le Carré, was born in Istanbul, of an Armenian father and a Greek mother. He began by writing plays, then lent his pen to the cinema and the television but what has earned him enduring fame is his series of police intrigues, featuring the now famous Commissioner Charitos, in which he describes Greek society with a sharp look – but also with a lot of warmth and humor. The great mastermind of Hellenic homicide’s first three books Deadline in Athens, Zone Defence and Che Committed Suicide have been translated into English. But it is his ‘Crisis Trilogy’ series that really captures Greece’s modern struggles. 27

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5 Great Bookshop Cafes in Athens Join the slow living movement and retreat from the mad whirl at one of these comfy-cosy and welcoming book nooks where you can easily while away a morning or afternoon, lost in a world of words. BY AMANDA DARDANIS PHOTOGRAPHS BY: JILL BAKER

Poems & Crimes Art Bar A quaint and chameleon-like literary den that evolves with the hour. Walk into Poems & Crimes, in buzzy Agias Irinis, in the morning and you’ll smell coffee and books (one of life’s great olfactory mergers!). At noon, you’ll encounter tempting aromas of homemade soups and oven-baked pies wafting from their kitchen. Hang about until the evening and the ground floor bookstore morphs into anything from a chilled jazz nook to a robust rebetiko space. As for the books? You’ll find a wide collection covering psychology and the arts, Greek and foreign titles, philosophy and more. The graffiti-anointed courtyard in the back is a real escapist gem with soothing potted palms and raised wooden floors. This historic multi-storeyed building is also HQ for Gavrilidis editions.

Agias Irinis 17, T: 210.322.8839, W: poemsandcrimes.gr

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Booktalks Looking out for us rather neglected bookworms in the southern suburbs are the wonderful Agis and Katerina who have united their mutual fetish for the written word to create this homey and cheerful hangout in Palaio Faliro. You’ll feel equally at home at Booktalks whether you’re flying solo or come with a crowd. Enjoy a coffee and tasty morsel over a James Joyce or Karagatsis; settle in with your own current read or your laptop; or come to take part in the regular Reading Club that takes place in the cafe. With an inviting ambiance that transmits the “old neighbourhood” mood, this is one coffee date you’ll be in no hurry to wrap up.

Artemidos 47 & Agiou Alexandrou 58, Palaio Faliro, T: 210.980.2520, W: booktalks.gr

Free Thinking Zone Are you a literal or a lateral thinker? Or more of a liberal thinker? All strains of brain will find much to enjoy at this unique bookshop concept that also functions as a coffee shop, bar and arts gallery. Channeling the spirit of Plato’s Academy or the more modern-take intellectual salon, Free Thinking Zone hosts a broad spectrum of events and book presentations – across many current issues - each month. Go to join the discussion over a tea or coffee, meet new people, or spend a quiet afternoon browsing the permanent and periodic collection of fascinating publications.

Skoufa 64 & Grivaion, Kolonaki, T: 210.361.7461, visit their Facebook page to find details of various topical events.

A TRANQUIL OASIS IN THE HEART OF THE HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE

ΜΗ.Τ.Ε.: 0206K015A0021500

The Winter Garden offers the city’s most elegant and enchanting refuge for European breakfast, light lunch, high tea or dinner accompanied by live piano music. OPERATING HOURS: 8:00 A.M. � 00:00 �LAST ORDER 23:30 P.M.� DRESS CODE: ELEGANT SMART CASUAL TELEPHONE: +30 210 3330 000 GBRESTAURANTS.GR HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE A LUXURY COLLECTION HOTEL, ATHENS 1, VAS. GEORGIOU A’ ST. � SYNTAGMA SQUARE 105 64 ATHENS, GREECE

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Polis Art Café You’ll feel more cerebral just by the mere act of walking into Polis Art Café. That’s because this studious space is located on the picturesque terrace of a landmark urban arcade devoted entirely to intellectual pursuits and the written word. The whimsically-named “Stoa Tou Vivlio” or The Book Arcade - aspires to bear witness to the ideas of the past, present and future through books and cultural events (like the annual European Literary Walk). This mustsee arcade is housed in an airy retail complex built onto the back of the neoclassical Arsakeio Mansion, behind Panepistimiou Square (the annexe was once a cinema and a boarding school for girls). You’ll find bookstores with works from 60 publishing houses, both Greek and foreign press - and a tangible air of inquiry. Polis Art Cafe hosts regular book presentations, talks, musical events and exhibitions.

Pesmatzaglou 5, T: 210.324.9588, W: stoabibliou.gr

Ianos Cafe Those stylish purveyors of books, Ianos, have created a popular social hub in the elegant lobby space overhead their Stadiou Street branch, across from Panepistimiou. Scholarly types and urban book lovers of all persuasions head there year-round to join in the vigorous intellectual life on offer; to peruse the microgallery’s latest art installation; or to make a start on their latest literary purchase over a drawn - out coffee or light meal. The speedy wifi also goes down well with students and regulars.

Stadiou 24, T: 210.321.7426, W: ianos.gr

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A Lesson on Lesvos Master story-teller Jeff Siger was a high-flying Wall Street lawyer until he gave it all up to write contemporary thrillers set in Greece (“Murder in Mykonos”, introducing his much-loved Chief Inspector Andreas Kaldis character, is one of Greece’s best-selling English language novels). The American author, who now lives in Mykonos, has never been afraid to tackle uncomfortable social themes in his addictive tales. Here, Siger digests the enduring human tragedy that inspired him to stage his latest novel, “An Aegean April,” in Lesvos. BY JEFFREY SIGER

When friends visiting from outside Greece ask me about “the new book,” I tell them it takes place on Lesvos and focuses on the plight of refugees. In response, I far too often catch an “I thought that was over with” blank stare, followed by questions about Lesvos, and the underlying elements of the refugee crisis that spurred me to write An Aegean April.

women, and children fleeing the terrors of their homelands flooded daily out of Turkey across the three-and-a-half to ten-mile-wide Mytilini Strait onto Lesvos. Tourists, who’d come to holiday on the island’s northern shores, found themselves sitting on the verandas of their beachfront hotels, drinking their morning coffee, watching in horror as an armada of dangerously overloaded boats desperately struggled to reach land.

So, as a public service, I thought I’d give a bit of background on both Lesvos and the still extant refugee crisis.

Inevitably, tourists stopped coming. But not the refugees, for they saw no choice but to come. No matter the predators waiting for them along the way: profiteers poised to make billions of euros off the fears and aspirations of desperate souls willing to pay, do, or risk whatever they must for the promise of a better, safer existence. In 2015, more than a half million asylum-seeking migrants and refugees passed through Lesvos, looking to make their way to other destinations in the European Union (EU).

The northeastern Aegean island of Lesvos, a place of quiet beauty, storied history, and sacred shrines, has long drawn the attention of tourists. Though never quite the hordes of off-islanders that descend each summer onto some of its much smaller, but far more notorious, Cycladic island neighbors to the southwest. Its reputation as the bird-watching capital of Europe, possessing the greatest array of wildflowers in Greece and one of the world’s largest petrified forests, draws a different sort. Lesvos ranks as the third largest of Greece’s islands, behind Crete and Evia, with roughly one-third of its 86,000 inhabitants living in its capital city of Mytilini, an alternative name used by many Greeks for the island itself. Most Greeks, though, know very little about modern Lesvos and think of it, if at all, as little more than the serene agrarian home of Greece’s ouzo and sardine industries. That abruptly changed in 2015. Virtually overnight, thousands of men, 32

The chaos of the modern world had spun out a rushing storm of profit for human traffickers of every stripe, and Lesvos sat dead center in its path.

The chaos of the modern world had spun out a rushing storm of profit for human traffickers of every stripe, and Lesvos sat dead center in its path. Greece had not experienced immigration of the current magnitude since the early 1920s, when 1.2 million Greek Orthodox Christians were expelled from Turkey, an event to which most residents of Lesvos traced their ancestors. What had triggered this nation’s modern migration deluge? Under Greece’s prior government, the Greek Coast Guard intercepted and turned refugee boats back to Turkey, but in early 2015,

L I T E R A T U R E Greece’s new government ordered its Coast Guard to allow refugee boats to pass into Greece. Germany’s later announcement that it would accept one million Syrian refugees that year made what followed inevitable. From that moment on, it would have been irrational for those caught up in war, Syrian or otherwise, to remain in danger rather than risk a journey toward the promised peace and security of a new life in northern Europe.

Tourists found themselves sitting on the verandas of their beachfront hotels watching in horror as an armada of dangerously overloaded boats desperately struggled to reach land. Many Lesvos residents joined in doing what they could to help lessen the suffering of the refugees, as did many tourists and off-islanders, but the onslaught soon overwhelmed them. With the arrival of the international media and their cameras, a world outcry arose, bringing non-governmental organizations (NGOs) in to fill the void left by the confluence of EU political paralysis, and Greece’s obvious inability to bear the financial burden of caring for hundreds of thousands of new arrivals while so many of its own eleven million citizens struggled in the depths of a Great Depression-like economic crisis.

Photo: Marianna Pope Weideman

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SIGER A CHIEF INSPECTOR ANDREAS KALDIS MYSTERY

An Aegean April Many saw the NGOs’ efforts as admirable but severely wanting in both coordination and execution. What troubled them most was the utter absence of an organized plan for addressing the chronic problem of processing and humanely caring for the masses fleeing to safety in Europe. Threatened bureaucrats entrenched in doing things their own way feared such change. Worried elected officials concerned with playing to their voters wanted no such plan. And, for sure, human traffickers and their allies, who profited from the status quo, didn’t want one. But that was then. Wrong. Today, the rhetoric may be different, and the focus (for now) on different parts of the world. But the attitude of our allegedly civilized world toward refugees brings to mind the words of Lesvos iconic poet, Sappho (630-570 BCE). Words that might sadly prove to be the refugees’ epitaphic message to us all: “You may forget but let me tell you this: someone in some future time will think of us.”

“An Aegean April,” the ninth novel in Jeff Siger’s hugely popular Chief Inspector Andreas Kaldis series, set in Lesvos, will be published in January 2018. Read more about his previous best-selling novels set in Greece on W: jeffreysiger.com 33

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On Top of the World Qatar Airways’ Senior Vice President for Europe, Mr. Jonathan Harding, talks to Insider about the carrier’s game-changing new business class suites and the bumpy conditions that the elite airline weathered this summer. BY AMANDA DARDANIS

Qatar Airways Senior Vice President Mr. Jonathan Harding

In the international airline carrier business, one minute you’re up; the next you’re down, so to speak. If it isn’t fluctuating fuel costs or price wars, it’s geopolitics or shifting consumer trends. But in an age where more and more of us want to transect the globe; travelling farther and more frequently than ever before - and in ever more comfort - one airline, Qatar Airways, has achieved an apparently unbreachable strike rate when it comes to staying at the top of the game. Qatar Airways’ status as “the darling of the high-end passenger” is the envy of its premium peers. At this

‘We are the only airline to fly three times daily to Athens,’ says Qatar Airways’ Senior Vice President for Europe, Mr. Jonathan Harding. ‘Greece is of great strategic importance to us.’ It’s an allegiance that Qatar Airways put into practice in 2015 by adding their third daily service, at more or less the exact moment that capital controls arrived. Meanwhile, in the intense battle to fill seats, the airline has recently debuted a revolutionary new premium business class offering, QSuite, described memorably by Bloomberg as “business class on steroids”.

Qsuite is a game changer for the industry Receiving rave industry reviews, Qsuite is a flexible seating configuration which offers the first double-bed in business class and the option of creating private suites for colleagues, families, individuals or couples. The innovative system has been billed as the future of premium travel and according to Mr. Harding, will soon become commonplace across Qatar’s fleet of 194 Airbus and Boeing jets. Even so, it’s been a year of mixed fortunes for the prosperous carrier. In early June, Qatar’s neighbours, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, Egypt and the United Arab Emirates imposed an embargo on trade and transport after accusing the Qatari government of funding terrorism. The ongoing blockade, which was endorsed by American president Donald Trump, has resulted in Qatar Airways having to scrap several of its short-haul flights and re-reroute many intercontinental services throughout the region.

year’s International Paris Air Show, the Doha-based carrier was once again named the World’s Best Airline (it’s the fourth time since 2011), against a backdrop of 20 percent growth in passenger numbers year-onyear and forecast-busting financial results over recent quarters. Launched in 1997, Qatar Airways is the world’s fastest 34

growing airline. Over the past decade, they have more than tripled annual traffic to 32 million passengers and now fly 200 aircraft to more than 150 destinations on all six continents; including Athens, which has become an important and rapidly-growing market.

On his recent visit from London, Insider sat down with Mr. Harding for lunch at Zonar’s to discuss the airline’s current state of play. Qatar got off the tarmac to near-perfect conditions in 2017: your financial results for the first two-quarters of 2016 exceeded expectations; your passenger numbers soared by 20.1 percent year on year; and Qatar Airways was voted the World’s Best Airline 2017 for the fourth time by ratings group Skytrax.

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We’ve been privileged to receive that award on a number of occasions but there is a big responsibility that comes with that; in ensuring that we discharge our responsibility to our customers, whether they are business or leisure travellers, and in delivering high standards. That’s our main focus. We’ve had a very strong year last year and a very strong first half of this year. But, to continue the metaphor, Qatar then encountered serious unexpected turbulence over the summer due to the blockade and your falling out with American Airlines Group Inc. over your code share agreement to the crucial U.S. market. Can you ever be prepared for such an overnight unravelling of best-laid plans? The reality of the blockade which started in June is that, yes, it’s affected a small part of our network. But we fly to over 150 destinations. So we’re very keen to emphasise that it’s business as usual for us and that, yes, while we are in this political situation, we will leave the politics to the politicians and the diplomacy to the diplomats and focus on what we passionately believe in - which is delivering exceptional customer service.

As a consequence of the ongoing blockade, are you bracing yourselves for a tough landing when it comes to Qatar’s year-end results? Look, it’s a challenging industry whoever you are and we need to ensure that we are working very hard with our customers to understand what they want. We’re optimistic. We’ve had some great numbers across the network, including Greece, so we’re very, very positive.

The airline has recently debuted a revolutionary new premium business class offering, QSuite, described memorably by Bloomberg as “business class on steroids”. What lessons did you learn at the corporate level as a result of the events of the summer and how did you go about rebuilding consumer confidence – especially with regards to the Greek market which was particularly affected? We learned to keep focused on the business of running an airline and on our responsibility to do that to the very best of our ability. We restored consumer confidence by 35

B U S I N E S S constantly working on product innovation - initiatives like Qsuite - and through the expansion of our network. We are the fastest growing airline in the world. We’re launching 26 new destinations. So coming back to the “business as usual” message, we said we’d launch these destinations on specific dates and we did just that, or even accelerated the process. We launched Nice earlier this year and over the summer, we launched a number of destinations in Eastern Europe. We just added Kiev. Dublin and Cardiff will come next year. We’re just about to launch Sarajevo. It’s not just new routes either; it’s additional frequencies. So this is a hugely exciting period.

we decided that it was important to go ahead and show confidence in the market and we were thrilled to see the uptake of that. Our expansion in Greece has already been substantial and there is speculation about new routes to Mykonos and Thessaloniki. But we’re talking about an airline that has added six new routes already this year across the board so I don’t have anything concrete to tell you about Mykonos and Thessaloniki yet. As soon as I know something I’ll certainly share it with you!

The first double bed in Business Class

What main trends have you observed in consumer travel? The flight itself is becoming a more and more vital part of the travel experience. There is an ever-increasing desire to travel in comfort and within the leisure market, to explore new destinations. From a corporate point of view, it’s very much about convenience and time. Corporate customers want to get to where they want to be in comfort, quickly and conveniently, and to be the recipient of a high level of service. That’s what we aspire to.

We introduced our third service to Athens in June of 2015 just when capital controls came in. In a hugely competitive field, Qatar Airways has always placed a high premium on its business class offerings. Your Qsuite design is the envy of other carriers. Do you worry about copycats and about staying ahead of the game? There are some strong airlines with strong products but Qsuite is a game changer for the industry and it’s very special. It feels and looks like a first-class product in a business-class environment (in fact, it’s the first double bed in business class). It looks amazing. A big part of its appeal is that it’s very flexible. It can accommodate a family of four or a group of colleagues. If you’re travelling by yourself, or as a couple, you can close off your section, providing more privacy. We have launched Qsuites for London and Paris and are due to launch for New York very soon. The aim is to roll it out right across our fleet as quickly as we can. Copycats? We’ll see. We’re keen always to innovate with different products and to understand how to meet our passengers’ expectations. Greece has had a record number of tourists visiting in 2017 with projections of around 30 million tourists expected in 2018. Is Qatar planning any new routes or services to capitalize on Greece’s popularity as a holiday destination? There’s speculation about new routes to Mykonos and Thessaloniki… Greece is a massive market for us. Within Europe, Greece occupies a hugely important place (alongside the UK, France, Germany and Italy). We introduced our third service to Athens in June of 2015 just when capital controls came in. Other airlines were pulling back, but 36

Does Athens have the potential to become a strategic European hub for Qatar Airways? Greece is hugely important to us – both for the business and leisure market, and the long-haul market: people traveling to China or South-East Asia and the inbound route from this region too is in more and more demand. The fact that we’re triple daily to Athens is a huge commitment. Our competitors don’t offer the same volume. Finally, what kind of traveler are you? I’ve been lucky enough to live and work in many different parts of the world: Australia, Japan, China. I lived in Athens for two-and-a-half very happy years back in 1999 when I was working for Virgin Atlantic. I absolutely love engaging with different cultures and learning about them. This morning, as I walked around the streets of Athens, experiencing again the very special charm and the climate here, it brought back many very fond memories.

For more information about Qatar Airways’ world destinations, fares and revolutionary Qsuite, visit W: qatarairways.com

When Walter Met Zorba Following the recent death of the celebrated cinematographer Walter Lassally, who won an Academy Award in 1964 for Zorba the Greek, Sherri Moshman Paganos revisits both the iconic location of the film’s famous ending - Stavros beach in Crete - and her memorable encounter with Lassally, the man who made Zorba’s dance immortal, and who would himself spend his final decades living on “Zorba’s Beach”. BY SHERRI MOSHMAN PAGANOS

N O S T A L G I A As evening draws near on Stavros beach on Crete, the ghosts of Zorba and Basil, his beloved Boss, are dancing for those in the know. This summer I revisited Stavros, where in the classic ending scene of Zorba the Greek, Basil (Alan Bates) begs Anthony Quinn, the immortal Zorba, to teach him to dance. The camera slowly pulls away from the two figures laughing and dancing syrtaki on the unspoilt and pristine beach where much of Zorba was filmed in atmospheric black and white. Despite its inevitable discovery over the years as the beach of Zorba and some inevitable tackiness (a life-size Anthony Quinn poster on a wooden frame with the caption “This is Zorba’s Beach” greets beachgoers), Stavros remains a lovely village by the sea with crystalline and clear turquoise water, the beach now filled with colorful green and white umbrellas and orange sea beds. My mind goes back to the summer of 2009 when I met Walter Lassally, the Oscar-winning cinematographer, and director of photography, for Zorba, here in front of the former “Christiana” restaurant, which burned to the ground in 2012. It was a dark

Walter Lassally actually made his home for nearly twenty years in this pleasant seaside village at the northern end of the Akrotiri peninsula, 14 kilometers from Hania. dingy looking place. But it contained something inside that drew visitors from around the world: the Oscar statuette that Lassally got for his cinematography for the film and that he donated to the restaurant. The Oscar, however, also burned in the fire, and from “Christiana’s” ashes, rose the Zorba-themed “Sea View Beach Bar”. Thanks to the “Sea View”, everyone here knows that this beach is connected with the movie. They might even think idly about the famous ending as they order a strawberry smoothie on the beach or have the “Special: Zorba’s Souvalaki” at one of the tables set up on the grass or look at the movie stills on the walls, such as Bates offering his umbrella to the Widow, (Irene Pappas) or Quinn and Bates meeting for the first time in Pireaus. But I can’t help but wonder how many have actually seen the film and know that its celebrated cinematographer Walter Lassally actually made his home for nearly twenty years in this pleasant seaside village at the northern end of the Akrotiri peninsula, 14 kilometers from Hania. After Lassally retired, he and his wife Nadia visited all the places that he had worked on throughout his film career, with an eye to decide where to settle down and live. It was Stavros, backdrop for Zorba, that won their hearts. Several years later after Nadia died in 1994, he made the move a reality. Here, Lassally lived with his dogs, until his recent death, aged 90,on October 23rdat a hospital in Hania. Born in Germany in 1926, Lassally fled the Nazis as a child along with his family, and they settled in England where he felt the stigma of being a “displaced person”. With his father a film director and an early pioneer in the film industry, it was natural that the young Lassally follow in his footsteps, and he first got involved in documentaries showing British workers. Later, he joined the Free Wave cinema movement with director Tony Richardson in the late 50’s and early 60’s, a movement “totally ignored by the mainstream,” as Lassally expressed to me once, with such social realism films as A Taste of Honey and The Loneliness of the Long Distance Runner, and then later Tom 38

Jones, a worldwide hit. On our first encounter, Lassally had greeted me courteously with an impish smile, red faced, with a full head of white curly hair. The table was set out on the sidewalk across the road right above the beach. Although it was only late morning, he had already started on a carafe of cold white wine and poured a glass for me. A June day held a slight chill in the air. The umbrellas, then blue, sheltered a few families with children playing in the sand. It took great imagination to think of the beach in the early 60’s; no electricity, no water, certainly no Greek or other European tourists enjoying the clear sparkling sea, a delight to swim in. And it took even more imagination to think in black & white, as it had to be in the film: Bates’ white jacket that he tosses onto the sand, Quinn rolling up the sleeves of his dark shirt, the waves of the sea beyond, the rocks, the starkness of the mountain. “Over there,” Lasally pointed out to me, knowing this is what I – what everyone - wanted to see, “is where they danced. And that’s where,” he had gestured ahead to the barren rocky mountain with sparse growing shrubs, “where the logging scene happens.” The logs that start flying in all directions down the mountain is the impetus for the Boss learning not only how to dance, but how to laugh, and consequently how to live.

Quinn practiced the word ‘melomakarona’ literally hundreds of times before he had to say it twice in one scene. Sipping his wine, Lassally had enjoyed relating stories about the actors. When he and director Michael Cacoyiannis set about turning Nikos Kazantzakis’ magnificent complex novel into a screenplay and then the film, they had in mind only one person for the role of Zorba: Anthony Quinn, who they had seen recently in Fellini’s La Strada. Quinn’s huge ego was legendary, “and he was used to yes men, fawning over him,” Lassally told me. “He brought four of them with him and their sole role was to tell him from morning to night how marvelous he was.” He laughed. “Another thing is that he told us he wanted to do things in only one take. I was the one to tell him that wasn’t the way that Cacoyiannis worked. At first he was surprised that someone was questioning him but I think he actually liked that somebody stood up to him!” “Another thing about Quinn,” he had told me, “is that he really felt most at home doing physical acts -- there’s a scene that unfortunately was cut where he picks up a table with his teeth! But he felt less sure of himself with speaking Greek words, and Quinn practiced the word ‘melomakarona’ literally hundreds of times before he had to say it twice in one scene.” Zorba was actually the 5th film he and Cacoyiannis cooperated on. Their collaboration dated back to the mid-50’s when, dissatisfied with the cameraman he had worked with on the film Stella, Cacoyiannis heard about the “young and talented Lassally” from the British director Lindsay Anderson and sight unseen, proposed that he come to Greece to work with him. The first film they cooperated on, To Koritisi me ta Mavra (The Girl in Black) has the lyrical black & white realism that Lassally was so fond of. His favorite story was when the director and the cast of the film – Elly Lambetti, Dimitris Horn and Yorgos Fountas, “in full evening dress, came to meet me for the first time at the airport. They were waiting for someone mature to get out of the plane,” said Lassally. “Instead, although I was 28, I looked like a 16 year

Anthony Quinn as Zorba

old schoolboy. This was not what they expected!” After Zorba in 1964, Lassally did one more film with Cacoyiannis three years later, “a terrible flop! I won’t say anything about it,” he had said mischievously, “but here’s the title if you want to look it up: The Day the Fish Came Out.” Although he continued doing some Greek movies, with the advent of the junta, he decided to concentrate more on English films and so began his collaboration with “the third important director of my life. “This was James Ivory, who he teamed up with through the 70’s and 80’s on a number of films, including the acclaimed Heat and Dust. Several glasses of wine later, overlooking the beach and some early-in-the-season swimmers, Lassally had taken me into the Christiana to see the Oscar which he took down from the top shelf. Years of handling it had made the gold start to lose its luster and he had reluctantly put it in a box to help preserve it better. Ironically, keeping it here in its “spiritual home” as he called it, didn’t help the precious statuette survive the fire. In the new Sea View, besides the film stills, is a well-known side profile photo of Kazantzakis in white billowing shirt and holding a pen, and one of a young black-haired Mikis Theodorakis, composer of the immortal Zorba music, conducting the orchestra. But conspicuously absent is a photo to honor the world-renowned and venerated Walter Lassally who not only won an Oscar for the cinematography, but became an honorary Stavros resident, visited by fans from all over the world. Some years ago ERT did a documentary about Lassally entitled “Walter the Greek,” a name that locals used too in talking about their illustrious inhabitant. Evening is drawing near. Under the green and white umbrella on Stavros beach,I stare at the rugged mountain across the bay. In my mind the bouzouki starts playing and there they are, on this desolate wind swept beach, Zorba and “Boss,” arms on shoulders, Walter Lassally’s camera having truly made their dance eternal.

Walter Lassally

Five Things You Should Never Say In Greece! Insider’s linguistics whiz and cultural commentator John Carr provides a fool-proof guide to avoiding verbal offence here in the Great Olive Belt (at the risk of a spanking from his own Greek mama!)

state never tion! o S . a s ia BY JOHN CARR onver d illenn ny m taverna c y bug-eye f a m ILLUSTRATIONS BY IASON ILIADES k b in o c t s a e k r b e e m o re numb ill be the G and g at dark isbelief to foreigner, w and any l claim th . s h il r d n s e is r s w e g b u le ft are o eks, yoou, the clue wagging finories. Somee. That is rubemns e c e t d e e Y Gr Gr con or s vil Ey tion, ers tothat the xpressive indigna urdling horrccepts the E h officially tanic, if not m o c c e l c a a w r s d a e u h and y and nimpressionand highl d of politic a bloon the Churc rthodox Chremedies asget yourself aby, s r o t h n O n d nb t eve for Visi r the the ki est suc , ope ppose w-bor en to a Greek unde a volublettle use foren the W y. Well, we, The elief and suif you happ meone’s nepossible. Th et being le, have li at has giv ven anxiet Greek sun , the bensical. But teness of so as soon as ly tried to g er peop ctness th edia - dri d over the and of PC , nons over the cu n the infant o presumabwill be forev corre of mass m dark clou ts own br elsewhereo coo re to spit o he devil, wh py parents case to draw a ure has i at found ident (wh il. be su rive away t nd the hap hate reek cultcable as th itor or res r her per e will d e kid first, a to th l. but G as impla foreign vis ts at his o re are fiv u e u e e t h o i h , fl u gratef q ch t better) century i h nd w w.” y sou and ld know he 21st utter. ’t kno of us ma ion of n t o u r d o n e I i s “ st sh a admis ld nev o mo now, This t genuine dicative of y Even s you shou h a in lt g a d e n e i n h lik th nce, a er with a ignora character ility. Aft w m o d u n n h k u so o. e of ossibly degre ho can p s, that’s wh o) k r w e e e x r , G en all w” (d ity thing? every I don’t kno of stupid r “ F , n e . r io gs ss o He admis f weakne g in methin ” o n S a o o in n w is driv ence s to A ’t kno and h le, you’re e direction ive “I don ng way, p e exam and ask th never rec That’s a lo ?” The “ l y Kifissia er. You wil more like, ere anywa s have , h t r h e t t n a b c o e o l g , or wil to s. shm use ” ply. It you want cal establi extreme have! ything: ho , shoes, e r u o in y o o ti . t n d s li n a s … o y ti e t k dr ou g dp pu ly … Wh obia a love e you can , cat, shirt, naively thin k pal. k media an t-know-ph nds on sp mask t a h ’ “Oh, w blank spac ghter, dog . You may ut in Gree f Gree the don hood depe ecisely to ince e b u o n li e e t k v d pr n a li fair, s t e In the s, son, da is absolut pliment, c y per ver esigne ugh to be te?). At e d o m y in h ir n t o t a h e t e c s o r h o o o in n s T t t h vo cu PhDs raciou s. (Alt ing! N ns of e, rs, the get a d of flowe giving a g tually curs wyers and the Evil Ey e ocea cluelessnes ero” ever e reminde t I x a you’re ou are ac tors and la terror of n someon il their did “den e need to b know is th y c in n v I w he e e , w h g d is w in e h n eyes , from do sant, live h like t nly th d s motio a see, t times es: “ The o Greek umble pe tly set in ssion. You nd mad, an t h ly n a e a most is appare lse’s poss ts jealous and an ug i. Socr nothing.” e which someone he devil ge bout that,” amborghin e know t s e d ar is wL ea n a a r p rs it, h? We’ll se ur shiny ne uperstition a e h r yo ove Oh, yea n s rs on “ ranea says, atch appea Mediter is r big sc ots of th o r e Th 40

HUMOUR

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T R A V E L

Let it Snow… Greece is not just a summer romance. From stylish ski resorts and historic city hamlets to quaint alpine escapes, mainland Greece is awash with irresistibly inviting winter wonderlands. As the evenings close in and temperatures fall, trade balmy beaches and long lunches by the sea with luxurious lodgings in dramatic locales where you can be as active – or as indolent – as your wintery heart desires. Insider shares five of our favourite cosy winter retreats.

ARACHOVA ELATOS RESORT & HEALTH CLUB

All hail the Queen Bee of the Arachova winter whirl. Yes, there may be newer, more-boutiquey arrivals in town now. But they just can’t compete with this well-bred favourite: Elatos still retains its crown for fashionable Athenians who love the sociable vibe, beautiful forest setting and excellent leisure facilities (the Club House boasts a fabulous indoor pool and a terribly chic lounge bar with cinematic views that wouldn’t look out of place in Val d’Isère). Nestled on the woody slopes of Mount Parnassos, Elatos is a village of classic and spacious wooden chalets, catered to by friendly and accommodating staff, and well located for the popular Parnassos ski centre. Social scene aside, Elatos also organises a raft of active alpine adventures and wellness experiences year-round, such as nature hikes, yoga workshops and family-themed weekends. All of which makes this Arachovian institution a joy to experience whenever the weather outside is frightful. Or pretty much anytime really.

T: 223.406.1162-3 W: elatosresort.gr

NAFPLIO

T R A V E L

OPORA COUNTRY LIVING From the utterly perfect landscape of Opora Country Living, you’ll look down upon the cobalt sea and redtiled roofs of Nafplio and breathe the sigh of the deeply contented (and the faintly smug). That’s because you’re among the lucky few to have discovered this gorgeous and classy haven that opened just one year ago. Enveloped by olive groves and orange trees on 30 acres, Opora has an exclusive rural feel, but is only 10 minutes from the stunning castles, Italianate squares and cosmopolitan delights of romantic Nafplio. Your lodgings? Century-old former olive oil warehouses that have been converted into beautiful French

contemporary-style stone farmhouses, equipped with handy kitchenettes, Coco Mat beds and cosy fireplaces. Enjoy a hearty organic breakfast of Greek pies, omelettes, pancakes, home-made yoghurts, honeys and jams on your peaceful private terrace while you plan the day’s assaults. Perhaps some onsite wine tastings, olive harvesting or beekeeping workshops. Or a jaunt to epic Epidaurus just 30 minutes away. You’ll be charmed by Opora’s many hospitable touches (such as gifts of family-produced olive oil to take home). Your only regret? It being too cold to take the plunge in the ravishing outdoor infinity pool.

T: 275.202.2259 W: oporacountryliving.com

METSOVO

T R A V E L

THE GRAND FOREST In winter, the enchanting village of Metsovo looks just like a painting. One of Epirus’ most popular tourist drawcards, visitors immediately fall under the spell of the town’s balconied mansions, stone drinking fountains and snow-blanketed squares. Tucked away in a pristine pine forest strewn with walking trails and picnic nooks, and towering over all this loveliness, is The Grand Forest retreat. Here, the simples pleasures of an alpine escape are as elevated as your lofty location (1350 feet actually). The culinary genius of

chef Ettore Botrini has been enlisted to create a menu that reflects Metsovo’s rich gastronomic traditions and delicious local produce. Meanwhile, the luxurious Fontus spa, named after the Roman God of Springs, has built its state-of-the-art wellness treatments around revitalizing local herbs. Which makes Grand Forest a perfect destination for those seeking a detox holiday too (although frankly, in Gourmet Metsovo, that seems rather a waste!).

T: 265.602.9001-4 W: grand-forest.gr 45

Kavala

IMARET In the heart of historic Kavala, in northern Greece, exists this masterfully-restored palace that seems to have arrived straight from a fairytale â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but with enough 21st century luxuries to satisfy any modern sybarite (think Bvlgari toiletries and Molton Brown candles). Built in 1817 for Mohamed Ali Pasha, Imaret is a rare monument to late Ottoman architecture and is set amid 3,000 square metres of tranquil gardens and majestic arcades, with heady views over city and

sea. Indulge in the neglected ritual of afternoon tea served in original Haviland-Limoges porcelain. Settle in with an enriching tome on art, travel or history in the impressively-stocked library. Or treat winterweary spirits to an invigorating interlude at the Imaretâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original hammam where you can recreate 18th century bathing rituals such as flower and spice baths and massages of exotic oils or fruit and nut scrubs.

T: 251.062.0151 W: imaret.gr

Elatochori SEMELI RESORT Legend has it that Zeus was so besotted with the bewitchingly beautiful Semeli that he transported her onto the slopes of the Pieria mountains (miles away from her native Thebes) so that he could admire her from atop his throne on Mount Olympus. Inspired by the legendary princess, the Semeli Resort, perched 1050 metres high on the Pieria mountains, enveloped by forests of beech, oak and fir trees, and offering mesmerizing views of Mt. Olympus and the unspoilt Thermaic Gulf below, qualifies as a bucket-list getaway. The smell of crackling wood, gourmet cuisine, après-ski pampering and designer interiors (Philippe Starck chairs and earthy Bukhara rugs), lend Semeli a warm, inviting vibe. A mere 5 kms away from the ski resort of Elatochori, it’s a great way to spend a White Christmas (guaranteed) while slaloming down the slopes. Outdoor options range from a leisurely walk in the forest to water rafting at the Enippeas gorge or hiking, trekking and rock climbing on Mt. Pieria and Mt. Olympus. The ski centre at Elatochori is among the newer and better-organised winter sport venues in Greece. For the culturally-inclined, Thessaloniki is little over an hour’s drive away; while the royal tombs of Vergina and archaeological finds at Dion and Pella are about 45 minutes away.

T: 235.108.2996 W: semeliresort.gr

The Call of Delphi Indian novelist Radhika Jha, who has recently relocated to Greece, visits the Ancient Navel of the World and finds much still to stir the senses at this enigmatic site. BY RADHIKA JHA

There was a time when a trip to Delphi could change the course of a life. Or of a nation. Now, this epic historic site lies a mere two hour car journey away from Athens and can be digested in half a day. When I think of Delphi, I think of the Oracle’s famous parting words to the last pagan emperor Julian the Apostate (331-363), “Tell the king that the beautiful edifice has fallen, Apollo has neither hut nor laurels, the source has dried up, the water speaks no more.” Yet some of the magic lives on in the beauty and majesty of the landscape. Delphi is Greece condensed into a single eyeful. Look right and you see wave upon wave of grey-green mountains. Look left and a sea of silver green olive groves, the oldest in Greece, meet the eye. Look up and a sheer cliff face towers above you, dominating the sky. Look down and you can see the narrow ravine with its sheer black walls, where legend has it the python who protected the first Pythia lived.

Delphi is Greece condensed into a single eyeful. But the archaeological site itself was initially disappointing as nothing remains except a jumble of foundation stones. The past felt terribly `dead’ and the present rather boring. Until I arrived at a curiously shaped oval stone that reminded me strongly of the lingam, symbol of the Hindu God Shiva. The placard in front of the stone informed me that what I was looking at was in fact the `omphalus’, or the navel of the world. Legend has it that in order to find the exact middle point of the earth Zeus set two eagles free from opposite ends of the earth and the spot where they met he marked with a stone, the `omphalus’. All of a sudden, the place came alive for me and I could see just how Delphi must have looked to the ancient Greeks.

T R A V E L They would have come by boat. Then, leaving their boats at the port town of Itea, which I could see as a white frill on the edge of the water, and loading their precious gifts onto mules or bullock carts, they would have begun the journey up the valley through olive groves and chattering streams. They would have been in great spirits, laughing and singing as they walked. As they entered the ravine and began to climb up the flank of the mountain, their laughter would have given way to silence, awe, as Delphi, a shining city of marble, glinting like a jewel in the sun, appeared above them.

Their laughter would have given way to silence, awe, as Delphi, a shining city of marble, glinting like a jewel in the sun, appeared above them.

For me, the Museum is the true jewel of Delphi. Here you can see some of the best sculptural works of the Archaic (5th century B.C.) and Classical (3rd century B.C.) periods. A giant sphinx in the first room quite literally knocks you off your feet. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the dancers, a group of three beautiful Dionysian priestesses decorating the top of a giant Corinthian pillar. But the sculptures of the male athletes are the real showstoppers, mind boggling in their realism and beauty.

Best Time To Visit It is probably wise to visit the present day site in the early morning, before the sun beats down on the rocky hillside, or go in October - January when it is cooler.

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Miss Though it is a tough walk uphill, do not miss the site of the Pythian games. Surrounded by pine trees, one can almost see the beautifully-dressed lords and ladies applauding the athletes and in the rustling of the pines, hear the musicians heralding the winners.

Eat At taverna Phivos on the Main Street or taverna Dion, one street behind, with charming outdoor seating on the stairs. Both serve good Greek food including the local specialty, lamb cooked with lemon.

Stay Hotel Amalia, five star luxury with a swimming pool and great views. Or, more charming, with a great Greek breakfast, Hotel Kastalia, Vassileos Pavlou and Freiderikis 13.T: 226.508.2205 49

T R A V E L i Museum & Archaeological Site of Delphi Delphi, 33054 (Prefecture of Fokida) T: 226.508.2313, 226.508.2312, E: efafok@culture.gr Τickets Full: €12, Reduced: €6 Open Daily 9.00 - 16.00 (Last admission 15.40) except National Holidays.

Top things to do near Delphi The tranquil Byzantine monastery of Ossios Loukas, 40 kilometers south of Delphi, is renowned for the elegance of its Byzantine architecture and frescoes. The faces that stare down at you are so alive they could be portraits of people today. Trek over the Elysian Fields of Mount Parnassos and watch the sunset from the summit. Or, if you prefer, from the balcony of a bar in the chic little alpine village of Arachova, clinging to the flanks of Mount Parnassus. This old village with winding streets that climb steeply upwards and old houses has managed to combine the chic of a ski resort village with old Greek charm. The town center is lively and full of excellent tavernas. Have a coffee or an aperitif at one of the bars on the central square. And don’t miss the marzipan sweets for which the village is famous. Drive to the idyllic town of Galaxidi, across the bay for a great blend of 18th century charm and modern day amenities like excellent cocktails and DJs. Stay the night at hotel Galaxa, a charmingly restored 18th century house.

T: 693 731 9528 E: QUERIES@N ASSOSNTO T SIKAS.COM

Antigoni Vintiadi at the gates of Athinais Cultural Centre.

What to Pack for an Arachova Escape

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The cosmopolitan alpine town of Arachova is the perfect place to go to “see and be seen” this winter season. BY MICHAIL-ALEXANDER PASSOS An easy two-and-a-half hour drive from Athens - in the Boeotia region of Central Greece – Arachova is often dubbed the “Winter Mykonos”, thanks to the wave of sophisticated and well-heeled Athenians who weekend here from November onwards. Draped along the slopes of Mount Parnassos (Greece’s highest peak after Mount Olympus), Arachova is an unexpected slice of Switzerland in the heart of Hellas. Typical Arachovian experiences include ice-skating outside the landmark Elatos Resort; exploring the many enticing delis, galleries and style-conscious boutiques, or indulging in après-ski Ellinika at one of the cosy tavernas near the church of Agios Georgios. Glamorous facade aside, Arachova Mode is more about moving comfortably and keeping warm and there are many who come for the comforts and splendours of the resorts and restaurants, rather than the skiing itself. The hotels here are justly famous and all have their own character, designed with one thing in mind: pleasure. Thus, opt for warm and comfortable clothes, but do pack some dresses too, given that there’s plentiful offslope action and vivid nightlife for the more energetic. Here are our tips on what to pack for your perfect alpine adventure in chic Arachova.

1. THE PROJECT GARMENTS cardigan €210 2. HOMMER beard shampoo €16 3. ODYSSEAS ELYTIS open papers book €18.5 4. THE BLUE WHITE donkeys hoodie €55

1. GRECIAN CHICK laser - cut backpack €344 2. KORRES nourishing oil 100ml €19 3. THE LINE PROJECT blouse €80 4. ANAMNESIA silk scarf €19.90 5. THE PENGUIN HANDMADE earrings €39 6. NASSOS NTOTSIKAS dress €125 7. MARY KATRANTZOU pink fur €11000 8. THE MOTLEY GOAT dress €114 9. KEEP FRED sneakers €49 10. CALLISTA CRAFTS backpack €480

S T Y L E

BY MICHAIL-ALEXANDER PASSOS

ANTONIA KARRA

Greek By Design

ANCIENT KAΛΛΟS Ancient Kallos, the new Resortwear collection, draws creative inspiration from age-old Greek beauty, its name deriving from the ancient Greek word for beauty, kallos. The sun shining on the Aegean islands, the tranquillity of the Ionian Sea and the white blaze of the Cyclades are all imprinted in the designs, expressing a contemporary take on the Greek elements. The sun in the form of its ancient Greek symbol features in the logo (ΚΑΛΛΟS), in the letter O, as a representative of the spirit, while the dot in the middle denotes the original spark, an emblem of willpower. The Fall-Winter 17/18 Halcyon Capsule Collection channels a relaxed mood with a romantic sensibility. Precious embroideries on capes, luxury sweaters and nostalgic florals on tops are inspired by Greek aesthetics. A palette of black and white with gold details is transfigured by luxurious emeralds. All products are designed and manufactured exclusively in Greece.

Greek designer Antonia Karra followed in her grandfather’s footsteps into jewellery, and, applying a technique she learned from her beloved grandmother, she began braiding the most intricate designs, taking her many fans on exciting adventures through her textural creations. With each line of jewellery, Antonia employs ever-more innovative techniques and experiments with new materials like silver and semiprecious stones, taking the fashion world by storm. Her designs have adorned international designers and fashion icons such as Diane Von Furstenberg, Georgina Chapman, Adriana Lima, Iris Apfel and Elisa Sednaoui. Drawing from her Greek heritage and influenced by a rainbow of native cultures, Antonia Karra’s designs are now sold around the globe, the latest line being inspired by the glamorous resort lifestyle of Mykonos. Ever evolving, Antonia recently attended a specialized workshop in London’s renowned Saint Martin’s to further develop her craft. antoniakarra.com

ancientkallos.com

S.E.A. ILAKATI CREATIONS S.e.a ilakati creations envisions the evolution of designer clothing in Greece combining artistic creation with traditional techniques. Pure materials such as organic cotton, silk and linen are the protagonists in every collection, confirming the excellent quality of the garments. The company’s philosophy flirts with the Greek summer, emphasizing in quality and environmental friendly materials. Sophia Berli, ILakati’s creative director, designs the new summer series spreading out the Mediterranean breeze through airy fabrics and earthy colors, ready to reveal each woman’s hidden charm. sea-ilakati.gr

THE FASHION LAB Here is a laboratory of fashion experimentation, where new technology meets the old epoch of fashion design. FL Collections are thematic pret-a-porter womenswear merging fashion design & photography to create clothes as canvas, where the female form becomes the conduit for impressive imagery. Believing in the endless dynamics of digital print in fashion, Fashion Lab presents an artistic view of colour and fabric for a novel clothing experience, where a story about the origin of inspiration lies behind each print. The upcoming springsummer 2018 ‘Aerial Greek topia’ collection, for instance, will offer a unique printed collection of clothing and swimwear depicting Greek landscapes from the lenses of awarded photographer Marina Vernicos, designed and produced by the FL designers Artemis Charidou & Tania Papadopoulou. FL collections are available in selected boutiques in Greece, Cyprus, Germany. thefashionlab.gr

KLOTHO‘ Alexandra Theohari, the founder of Klotho, named her brand after the first of the three Fates, who according to the ancient Greek Mythology, “spun the thread of life”. Inspired by the traditional weaving art of Crete, Klotho creates unique and timeless items of superior quality that combine Cretan tradition and technique with patterns and colours aligned with contemporary trends and ways of life. Alexandra’s resort wear and accessories are designed and made entirely in Greece, and revive and creatively redefine the local craft of Cretan artisans, creating high cultural value and supporting the local economy. Her items are embellished with well-known historical patterns, characterized by clean-cut geometrical lines and minimal influences deeply rooted in the simplicity of classical Greece. They speak to a sophisticated woman looking for something more than a mere fashion item.

ZEBRAS & LIBRAS SWIMWEAR The sun-drenched beaches, epic palette and brilliant skies of a Greek summer. The vibrations of waves and good karma. These are the creative muses behind the designs of Athens-based swimwear stars Zebras & Libras. Zebras & Libras focus on creatively novel, fashionable and high-quality swimwear, with designs that reveal a playful spirit through statement prints and shiny hues guaranteed to elevate the beach game of any discerning bathing belle. Each swimsuit is constructed with exceptional shape retention, excellent UPF 50+ UV protection, and resistance to suntan creams and oils. Shop the collections at zebrasandlibras.com and in selected boutiques in Greece & Cyprus. zebrasandlibras.com

klotho.com.gr

The Greek fashion industry is in the grip of a thrilling creative renaissance. Insider singles out the six names to welcome into your wardrobe .

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I N T E R V I E W

The Bare Necessities The catch-phrase “timeless classic” could have been created with Parthenis in mind. With their sleek and noble designs that elevate the everyday, this prosperous Greek fashion house has managed the feat of staying relevant and sought-after for more than four decades. How? By creating “less is more” wardrobe necessities for generations of appreciative fans. We caught up with Orsalia Parthenis, daughter of founder Dimitris, and now the creative helm of this historic fashion force.

Before devoting yourself to fashion design and taking over your father’s fashion house, you studied History of Art. Why the change of course? My first degree was in History of Art and Architecture, but my Masters was in History of Dress, so I was already steering towards a fashion career. After I graduated, I worked in fashion magazines, so I was finally prepared. But Fashion was always in my blood.

Orsalia Parthenis

BY MICHAIL-ALEXANDER PASSOS

Does directing such an historic fashion house as Parthenis restrict your own creativity? Having clear boundaries on my creativity can be restricting. But it can also be liberating to have a true identity and clear vision. Although it may sometimes feel to me that I cannot reinvent the wheel, the wheel always seems to be the only way to go forward. It is important to me to create clothes that are immediately recognizable as Parthenis, but always with some small new detail to make them relevant. It’s also important to me to make things that will endure. I don’t want to make disposable fashion and quality is always my number one priority, along with timeless design.

I hope that Parthenis items will be the least likely ones to be disposed of once they enter someone’s closet. What have been the standout moments of your career so far? Fashion always puts us in the mood to move forward and await the future. However, I also like to dwell in the past and study not only the history of my own brand but fashion in general. The favourite moment of my brand’s history? It’s not been written yet. Every season to come always seems to be the best. Under your father, Parthenis enjoyed a golden era in the ‘80s. How has the fashion game changed since then? The appreciation for quality was higher in the past and fashion stardom, although always influenced by the ephemeral nature of fashion, was earned by repeatedly proving and excelling yourself. The whims of fleeting celebrities dictate today’s fashion trends. But fashion does not seem to have become more democratic despite the plethora of lower budget options. On the contrary, street fashion that was once the key influence behind most fashion trends came from tight budgets and creative minds, while today’s “democratization” does not lead to any truly creative trends. How personally involved are you with the business and retail 56

side of things? I try to be present as much as my schedule allows. I enjoy being in touch with my customers because it gives me great satisfaction to see them happy and beautiful in my clothes. It’s also important to know who your customers are to keep them satisfied. And who is the Orsalia Parthenis customer? Someone who knows themselves and is true to themselves. Someone who does not need the trappings of extreme fashion declarations to prove themselves beautiful or worthy and who puts quality and comfort above all. We have managed to dress two generations and have already moved to the third. It is not rare to witness grandmother, daughter and granddaughter shopping simultaneously in one of our stores. This is what makes me the proudest.

I N T E R V I E W What is the narrative behind your design concept? Each season I try to have something different to give each collection a new twist but also to keep it coherent. AW2017-18 was “Out of Space” while SS2018 was “Exaggerated Individualism” in 19thcentury Patagonia. These concepts give me the season’s narrative, but they do not steer me away from the core of the brand.

Economic downturns sometimes give birth to new sprouts of creativity. This has not only led Greeks being more interested in buying and wearing Greek fashion, since imports have been a little tricky for some retailers, but also, for some Greek designers to seek international recognition. However, I do not think that Greek fashion should focus on Greek folklore, as is mostly the case, because I do not believe this is a path with longevity.

What kind of legacy do you aspire to leave to the Greek luxury landscape? High quality, timeless design, longevity and necessity. I hope that Parthenis items will be the least likely ones to be disposed of once they enter someone’s closet. I want them to become necessary favourites. Do you feel there’s a significant interest in young Greek designers at the moment?

Which area of Athens do you live in and what do you see from your window? I have lived in Philoppapou, Ano Petralona for some time now and I love it. I am in the center of Athens but enjoy a view of the sea from my roof and of the natural beauty of Philoppapou Hill. Flagship store, Kolonaki

A restaurant or bar in Athens you’d highly recommend – and why. Oikonomou Tavern in Ano Petralona has been in the same spot since 1930 and has remained largely unchanged. The food is humble Greek. The place is also simple, like a house, with white walls, a few frames, rattan chairs, and in the summer, tables out on the pedestrianised street. There is no music or special lighting, but the paintings and the books on the walls all pay tribute to the numerous intellectuals that have dined in this place. One learns to love this place not only for the quality of its food but for its constancy.

T: 210.271.3844, W: orsalia-parthenis.gr 57

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Six Hot Fashion Trends for 2018 Insider forecasts the six need-to-know trends to inspire your festive shopping and to help you rock it in 2018. BY MICHAIL-ALEXANDER PASSOS

RED HOT

From scarlet to crimson, Red is the shade to sport in 2018. We spotted monochromatic looks and sleek coats, overthe-knee statement boots by Fendi and much more.

VINTAGE FLORALS Delicate florals are not exclusive to spring or summer – women fancy their blooms year-round and the catwalks were more than happy to comply with moodier and vintage versions of garden prints from casual tops to princess gowns.

CHECK PLEASE

It’s official: This season, designers are inarguably crushing on ‘70s plaid – utilizing this versatile print on everything, from coats at Balenciaga to suiting and formal gowns at Calvin Klein.

S T Y L E It’s been a couple of months since fashion designers presented their Autumn/Winter 2017 Collections on the runway. So we’ve had plenty of time to ponder, plan and refine those runway-approved trends that we most wish to welcome into our 2018 wardrobes. With a prevailing sartorial mood of “anything goes”, it’s diversity in shape, style and substance that makes fashion most relevant and impactful. Below we highlight the six fashion trends that stood out from the pack.

GLITTER GALORE

Sparkle and shine, channel old-school Hollywood this season by making sleek silver and metallic sparkles a multi-tasking wardrobe staple.

FUR FEVER

Playful, faux furs flaunting every possible colour combination and pattern to brighten up the dreariest of winter days.

HOLD ON TO THAT CLUTCH

Demure and hand-held, this season the clutch is here and it’s daintier than ever!

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Greek Fashion Takes Front Row Greek fashion finally gets the trade fair it deserves: Andydote Fashion Fair. Now in its second year, the AFF aims to elevate Greece’s pool of outstanding design talent. Insider meets the young and talented fashion industry innovator, Antigoni Vintiadi. BY MICHAIL-ALEXANDER PASSOS

Why is Greek fashion worth dealing with? Because we have great talents, superb product quality and amazing designs! Could you name some unsung Greek brands that have great potential? A brief selection would be: The Motley Goat, Ananke, Sophia K, Barbora, Katerina Chatzipetraki, Zoe Apostolou, Olimpo Sandals, Greek Chic Handmades, Art of π. We have heard that the AFF will be open to the public for one day. Will there be any reduced prices? First of all, let me highlight that the AFF was the first trade fair that was open to the public. We wanted the participating designers to be approachable and affordable to everyone. So, for one day only, on Monday 29th of January, the designers will offer reduced prices and special gifts while the AFF will present mini-fashion shows.

The 3rd Andydote Fashion Fair will be held from January 26 to January 29. On the last day, Monday 29 January it will be open to the public, offering designers’ apparels at reduced prices [11:00-19:00]. Athinais Culture Centre Kastorias 34-36, Athens More info | www.andydote.eu 60

What are your goals and desires for 2018, regarding the AFF? Our main goal is the success of the forthcoming 3rd trade fair, and the launch of our e-showroom. We have created a platform for potential buyers from all around the globe, which can be found on our main site (andydote.eu). Every buyer will be able to see the look books and the wholesale prices and then order online the most suitable Greek designers’ products for their boutiques. My wish is to make everyone trust in our vision. Have you picked out a particular trend you would like to adopt for the SS 2018 season? Among the trends of the SS 2018 season, I have already distinguished the assymetrical necklines, which set off the beautiful neckline of any woman. I am also in favour of the color of lavender and white tank tops that match any suntanned skin and dark denims, an all-time staple of any wardrobe.

Fashion industry innovator Antigoni Vintiadi

How did you come up with the idea of Andydote Fashion Fair? I had been working in fashion, both wholesale and retail, for about 5 years and I came to the conclusion that something really important was missing: A fashion trade fair for Greek Designers. A space and an organization whose only purpose would be the presentation and promotion of Greek designers. Once I found the right space - Athinais Cultural Centre, I was convinced that the Andydote Team and our associate, Fashion Assured Agency, would accomplish our vision.

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All things Bright and Beautiful

Embrace the seasonal spirit and pamper yourself – or a cherished one with these “look-good-feel-good” cosmetic treats that offer the perfect preparation for the bright days and nights ahead. You’ll wish it was Christmas every day! BY KATERINA VALLOGIANNI

GEL EFFECT NAIL COLOR BY KORRES Six new Gel Effect Nail Color hues, in harmony with the mood of the season are among Korres’ Christmas proposals. The Stone Gray shade renders the coolness of the winter landscape, while Berry Addict and Steel Blue stand out among the imposing winter-classic Black, Burgundy Red and Smokey Plum (for those who prefer a more edgy manicure alternative to traditional red). Gel Effect Nail Color promises to glow and last for ten days.

COLLECTIBLES FROM BOBBI BROWN Glamour, velvety textures and luxurious packaging make Bobbi Brown a byword for festive beauty. The House’s Christmas collectibles consist of elaborate sets of products and palettes. The high notes? Satin & Caviar Shadow & Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner Palette for the eyes, the All Smoothy Shadow & Mascara Palette Shadow palette all-in-one, and the Travel Brush Set consisting of luxury brushes with a standard size head and travel-size handles.

FESTIVE SUGGESTIONS FROM SHISEIDO This year, Shiseido offers its favourite beauty essentials in specially designed gift sets along with super-handy travel size products. Each set contains basic body care creams and accompanying products in a special size. Among them: the Future Solution LX Set, the BOP Lift Dynamic Xmas Set, the Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate Set and the WASO Xmas Set.

PERSONALIZED GROOMING BY FREZYDERM Seasonal socializing takes its toll on our complexions. Give back the love with Frezyderm’s Cream Boosters Velvet Concentrate, their first complete line of personalized cosmetics. 62

CHRISTMAS GIFTS FROM APIVITA This Christmas, Apivita has released a collection of separate beauty gifts, including two limited edition packages, for men and women. The men’s product contains Cardamom and Propolis Shampoo-Shower Gel and Moisturizing After Shave with Balsam and Propolis, plus a Limited Edition gift. For women, the Express Beauty Masks package comprises a scrub and four masks (the ginkgo biloba eye mask is a musthave party season staple!).

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COLLECTOR’S EDITION JEAN PAUL GAULTIER CLASSIQUE AND LE MALE Jean Paul Gaultier presents favorite aromatic “his-n-hers” duo, Classique and Le Male, in a deliciously collectible edition this Christmas. The subversive Jean Paul Gaultier channels a festive mood by encasing these much-loved fragrances in snow globes. JO MALONE LONDON WITH CHRISTMAS GIFTS Jo Malone London has collaborated with British fashion designer Jonathan Saunders to create prettyas-a-picture temptations for Christmas 2017, such as the limited edition English Pear & Freesia Cologne Bottle, the Green Almond & Redcurrant Collection and the Pine & Eucalyptus Collection.

LITTLE BOXES OF JOY BY REN REN has released joyful, collectible boxes of loveliness with product combinations promising clean and luminous skin that will glow every day of the holidays. These gorgeous designs are courtesy of London fabric designer Vicki Murdoch, creative director of Silken Favours.

L’OREAL PARIS X BALMAIN FOR COLOR RICHE LIPSTICK Just before Christmas, L’Oreal Paris debuted a longawaited collaboration with Balmain to create a capsule collection for Color Riche lipsticks. Three series, Glamazone, Couture and Rock Collection, for three different types of women, in great colors and impressive packaging, make for an ideal celebratory gesture.

RETURNS SEASONAL SERIES FROM THE BODY SHOP The Body Shop joins the party with Frosted Plum, Vanilla Chai and Frosted Berries. Whether you are partial to plum with delicate notes of flowers, the warm aroma of vanilla with rich spices, or the knockout aroma of berries, the collections promise to envelop you in a festive aura.

CHRISTMAS SUGGESTIONS BY NUXE Choose from Nuxe’s two fine Christmas 2017 gift packages: the first celebrates its Best Sellers (Huile Prodigieuse, Rêve de Miel Ultra-Nourishing Lip Balm and Rêve de Miel Hand and Nail Cream); while the second collection features classic Nuxe musthaves (Prodigieux le parfum, Huile Prodigieuse and Prodigieux Huile de douche).

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Your Insider’s Guide to Athens’ Best Shopping Malls Athenians’ love affair with shopping malls still burns bright. Four selfconfessed “mall rats” share their insider secrets to help you get the best from their favourite Athens shopping destination festive season.

GOLDEN HALL

Meg Cope Founder & creative director of Zaccys London

Why Golden Hall is my favourite Athens Shopping Mall… The presence of natural light inside Golden Hall, thanks to the high ceilings and abundance of glass and mirrors, is one of the main reasons I enjoy visiting (I love the stylish fountains in the outdoor space and the beautifully-decorated shop windows too). It’s also a manageable size, not too vast and overwhelming. Best time of the week to visit In the late morning – when it’s still relatively quiet, but there are enough shoppers around to create a feeling of camaraderie. Best shop to pick up something special to wear I love the edit at Free Shop and can usually strike gold there. Attica is also a reliable source of current collections with clever seasonal edits and offers. The new Armani xchange is very exciting and will now top my list on the hunt for fabulous finds! For novel gift ideas? Bookshops are one of my favourite places to browse, I do miss Daunt on Marylebone High Street, but Public is a fantastic shop, much loved by my two boys as well. I also love the Ianos Art Shop – full of inspiring and fun gifts as well as beautiful cards and candles at Easter. Notos, with the in-store Habitat is always on my list, as are Zara Home and the Cook Shop, both excellent sources for well-priced and interesting gifts any time

of year. Best spot for a caffeine break Difficult. But I would have to say Carpo – one of the best shops in Greece in my opinion (I always visit their beautiful Piccadilly branch when in London). However, I’m also a fan of Il Barretto. My uncle is is from Northern Italy where the Bicerin hot chocolate is one of life’s great pleasures. My favourite food stop Hands down it’s Wagamama with its fab roof-top location: A rare chance in Greece to feed my chillifetish. My favourite Golden Hall purchase was… From the wonderful little florist stall on the ground floor: I picked up several lovely potted house plants which adorn my dining table. Any other Insider tips to share? Attica shoe gallery - where my new AWZaccys London collection is now available - is a must!

Leof. Kifisias 37A, Maroussi T: 210.680.3450, W: goldenhall.gr

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ATHENS METRO MALL

Amanda Dardanis Editor-in-Chief Athens Insider

Why Metro Mall is my favourite Athens Shopping Mall… I love its friendly “Goldilocks” size (not too big, not too small) and that it’s a great distillation of some of my favourite go-to high-street brands. It’s right next door to the Ag. Dimitrios metro, parking is cheap and easypeasy and the recreational facilities make it an all-round family pleaser. I can bribe my two daughters with the promise of a movie at Village Cinemas, a cinnabon, or time at the games arcade and Volta roller rink. Best time of the week to visit The usual Greek mode is to ease into the day gradually but I’m an early bird so I like to go straight after the mall opens at 9am, during the week when you have the shops (and the changing rooms!) all to yourself. Best shop to pick up something special to wear: Simple Caractere - an eclectic treasure trove of highfashion goodies with regular appearances by some of my favourite designers, such as Mary Katrantzou, Zadig and Voltaire, Matthew Williamson, Etro and Melissa Odabash (perfectly Mykonos!). On a budget? Check out BSB for great festive frocks during the party season and fab maxi-dresses that you can live in all summer long.

rose-gold range); or to Parisian brand Lollipops, who excel at winter accessories (stylish felt hats and glam beanies and gloves). Best spot for a caffeine break: Sue me, but I don’t drink coffee! I always grab a red berry and banana smoothie from Yogo n’ Ice on the third-floor food court. My favourite food stop: Mongo for their tasty Asian stir fries that you assemble yourself and can load up with as many veges and spices as you want. Or TGIF for one of their enormous salads if you want to make more of a meal of it, so to speak. My favourite Metro Mall purchase was… I want to say something classic and classy. But, it was my hooded fleecy snowflake pjs with the white pompoms that I got from Oysho two years ago. Any other Insider tips to share? The view from the top-floor food court is stupendous and rivals Athens’ best rooftop bars. It’s a great meeting point all-year-round.

Leof. Vouliagmenis 276, Ag. Dimitrios T: 210.973.0006, W: athensmetromall.gr

For novel gift ideas? Flying Tiger – this posh Danish version of Jumbo never fails to deliver when you’re looking for stocking fillers or a fun kid’s party present. If I’m looking for a special gift for a friend, I’ll head to FolliFollie (I’m currently crushing on their Rock Safari clutches and Wonderfly 65

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ATTICA CITY LINK

Caroline Pateras Social Media Manager Athens Insider

Why Attica is my favourite Athens Shopping Mall… The best part about shopping at Attica is that you don’t feel like you need to embark on a pilgrimage to get to your shopping mecca. It is so central that it invites you to drop in for an impulsive buy whenever you happen to be in town. And the window displays are such a draw too! I like the fact that the make-up counters are at the ground level as you walk in - it’s rescued me many a time after a long workday to freshen up for an evening out! Best time of the week to visit I tend to go during weekdays but love the idea of shopping on Super Sundays (when the stores are open), to take in the festive vibes. Best shop to pick up something special to wear I’m partial to Brooks Brothers for the men in my family – especially for formal wear for awkward teen sizes. They cater to the 14 to 18 year-olds better than most brands. Diane von Furstenburg for flattering wrapdresses. Napapijri is a great stop for stocking up on swimwear. For novel gift ideas? Alexandra Tsoukala for ‘arty’ girlfriends, Marc Jacobs for accessories from laptop sleeves to small clutches, Angelo di Spirito Rosa jewellery for millennials, Diptyque candles for all occasions!

Best spot for a caffeine stop or food break Zonar’s just next door for people-watching, or the Numismatic Museum Café just across for a meal in a serene garden, or a quick grab-and-go snack at Paul or at the Plaza Café at NJV Athens. My favourite Attica purchase was… A DVF dress that I have worn on more occasions than the euros I spent on it. Worth every cent! Some great make - up bargains at Bobbi Brown and MAC. Any other Insider tips to share? The great thing about Attica is that you can take the edge off your compulsive shopping guilt with some cultural refinement – so try and watch a play at Pallas or take in an exhibition at one of the several museums in the vicinity. Or at the very least, knock back a few cocktails at one of the rooftop bars.

Panepistimiou 9, Syntagma T: 211.180.2600, W: atticadps.gr

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MCARTHUR GLEN

Heather Nomi Tshuma Fashion photographer & model

Why McArthur Glen-Smart Park is my favourite Athens Shopping Mall… McArthur Glen-Smart Park is a distinctly different breed from most downtown shopping centers. Together, the two adjoining retail parks make an inviting open space, set out to resemble a village environment (complete with street signs and fountains), and packed with all sorts of brands and leisure activities that make it a top day out for all the family. There are plenty of great eating options and ample parking. You can also find designer wear at really competitive prices, as well as high street shops like H & M, Zara, Attractivo and for the fuller-bodied, M.A.T. Best time of the week to visit I usually go between Tuesday and Friday for a calmer experience. The weekends are super busy, which can be fun – except when one has small children to chase around!

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therapy. When I’m shopping with the little ones though, they always appreciate a quick stop at HaagenDaz where they can enjoy ice-cream while the grown ups get their caffeine fix. My favourite McArthur Glen-Smart Park purchase was… My most treasured and favorite purchase was a couture frock by Ralph Lauren discounted from 260€ to 80€ that was a very lucky day! Any other Insider tips to share? The kids’ play area is amazing. The promise of 45 minutes there is bribe enough for my children to tow the line while we shop. We take a quick walk-past first (so they can see what they’ll be missing out on if they don’t behave themselves!). Good deals can readily be found with online shopping. But one cannot find - or buy - the feel-good experience that you get from a day trip to McArthur Glen.

McCarthur Glen, Yalou, Spata T: 210.663.0840, W: mccarthurglen.com.gr

Best shop to pick up something special to wear I like Cavalli Class for their striking prints and edgy designs. One can often pick up a good piece at a decent discounted price. Some lines in the Discount Outlet Designer stores are from past seasons at a reduced amount. Best spot for a caffeine stop or food break Il Barretto is a super spot for a well-deserved caffeine break and for delicious food to break up your retail 67

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Two Classic Greek Christmas Sweets It’s not Christmas in Greece until the zacharoplasteia start piling mounds of melomakarona and kourabiedes. And it cleaves Greek society into two clans: those who prefer the crunchy intensity of melomakarona and those who swear by the ethereal, melt in the mouth, buttery bite of a kourabie. By Diana Farr Louis More traditional than Santa Claus or the Christmas tree, two scrumptious biscuits are indispensable additions to the Greek holiday table. Platters piled high with nutty brown melomakarona and snow white kourabiedes form part of the festive fare of virtually every Greek household, ready to be offered to any guest who happens by, invited or not. Or nibbled by family members at any time of day. You might also find honey-sprinkled diples (sheets or coils of feather-light fried pastry), silver-wrapped marrons glacés, and mountains of clementines for color, but melomakarona and kourabiedes are the main attractions, the yang and yin of Christmas delicacies. Not surprisingly, they also have fans, similar to football teams. My husband prefers the crunchy intensity of melomakarona, while I find them too sweet and can become ecstatic over an ethereal, melt in the mouth, buttery bite of a kourabie. Both sweets have long and improbable histories that are tied up with their etymology. Kourabiedes, which are essentially shortbread, may consist of nothing more than butter, flour, and sugar. The version we are most likely to find on the Christmas table is enriched with the addition of crushed almonds, brandy, and eggs, and covered with a thick dusting of confectioner’s sugar. But some recipes call for crushed walnuts, cinnamon or vanilla, orange blossom or rose water, and even olive oil instead of butter (which would make them acceptable to observant Orthodox who fast before Christmas). Every recipe agrees however that the cookies, whether round, flat, crescents, leaf-shaped, or bracelets, should be baked until they are barely coloured. Whiteness is essential, even if a slight ‘tan’ can be concealed by the powdered sugar, which usually ends up powdering your chin, nose and clothes. The white is considered symbolic of good fortune and happiness. But what about the name? A little research brings up a tangle of sometimes conflicting information, for this sweet is found all over the Middle East and the Balkans and thought to originate from Tabriz, Iran. Some sources say that Gurabiah (also Ghraybeh or Ghorayebah), as they are called in Arabic, comes from the word “gharib”, which means “to miss or yearn for”, or even “to swoon,” so that they are often heart-shaped and referred to as “Lovers’ shortbread.” Others say that the Turkish “kurabiye” comes from two words meaning “dry” and “biscuit.” Both sound valid. One thing all versions have in common is that they are offered as favours during weddings and christenings and served at holidays, whether the end of Ramadan or Christmas. They may be flavoured with cardamom, as was the fashion in Jewish communities in Iraq, pistachios as in Gaziantep, where almost every sweet contains the green nut, or even covered with gold leaf for the delectation of the Ottoman sultan’s court (and some very wealthy Turkish families even today). But they always have a festive connotation. The same cannot be said for melomakarona, which have a 68

coarser texture and are always made with olive oil, flavored with spices, orange juice and brandy, and sprinkled with chopped walnuts. In fact, they seem to be derived from a very ancient, Greek custom associated not with joy and renewal but with death and funerals. Andrew Dalby, the noted food historian, says that Makaria (also the name of the goddess of blessed death, variously described as a daughter of Hercules or of Hades), was the meal, the dinner of the dead, served after a funeral in ancient Greece. Small oval breads, perhaps the forerunners of melomakarona and shaped like them, were also eaten then. As you may surmise, “makaron”, whose root means a doughy substance, found its way to a much more common food, macaroni or pasta, too. Nowadays, with the prefix “melo” meaning “honey”, these biscuits, which are often dipped in honey syrup, have lost all connotation of mourning and sadness and rightfully claim their place at the festive table. Nevertheless, anyone fluent in Greek would know that “makaritis” is a term that means “beloved departed” and that “kourabies” is slang for a coward or fraidy-cat.

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Recipe

But if you’d like to make your own, I offer this recipe for melomakarona from my book Feasting and Fasting in Crete. Kourabiedes, being more delicate are harder to get right. These are actually the only melomakarona I like, since the cookies are stuffed with walnuts rather than merely sprinkled with them, and because they are utterly delicious without syrup, which I find cloying. For the dough about 450 grams (3-4 cups) all purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 240 ml (1 cup) olive oil 50 grams (1/4 cup) sugar 1/2 teaspoon baking soda diluted in 120 ml (1/2 cup) fresh orange juice 60 ml (1/4 cup) brandy grated peel of one lemon Sift the flour with the baking powder into a bowl. In a larger bowl beat together the olive oil and sugar with the electric mixer for 3 or 4 minutes and then beat in the other liquids adding the grated lemon peel at the end. Slowly stir in the flour until a soft dough forms. Remove the dough from the bowl and knead it on a lightly floured surface until it is smooth and malleable. Add more flour if the dough seems sticky. Cover with cling film and set aside to rest for about 30 minutes.

Walnut filling 1/2 kg (1 lb) walnuts, coarsely chopped 3 heaping tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg Mix all these ingredients together with your hands or a wooden spoon to distribute the spices evenly. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Pinch off a walnut sized piece of dough and roll it into a ball. Make a hole in it with your thumb and fill it with some of the walnut mixture. Close the hole and place the ball, which should look like a small egg, onto an ungreased cookie sheet. When all the dough has been shaped into biscuits, bake for about 30 minutes or until golden. Syrup (optional) 150 grams (3/4 cup) sugar 120 ml (1/2 cup) honey 120 ml (1/2 cup) water 60 ml (1/4 cup) brandy Boil these ingredients together for 3 minutes, skimming off the foam. Dip the biscuits in the syrup when it has thoroughly cooled or the next day. Sprinkle finely ground walnuts and roasted sesame seeds on top. Makes about 2-3 dozen, depending on how large you want them. 69

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Festive Treats from Kostarelos For 80 years, Kostarelos has been a temple for those with a love of all things cheese. Now, this excellent family-run store is set to become Kolonaki’s premier festive foodie destination for all your holiday season shopping needs and cravings.

Kostarelos uber-deli in Kolonaki is poised to become our favourite ally against the Christmas crush. Not only does this family-run store provide a welcome and cosy escape from the rigours of festive errands (not to mention chilly temperatures); it’s also a terrific place to source memorable, one-of-a-kind gifts, sure to please the fussiest folk on your Christmas shopping list. Sit and take a breather from your shopping exertions and refuel with one of Kostarelos’ elevated sandwich options that are a million miles away from bland ham and cheese toasties (we highly recommend the roasted mushrooms, soft feta and bacon with mayonnaise truffle or the graviera cheese and smoked pork with béchamel sauce and honey mustard). Sated, you can then grab a basket and fill it with fine traditional products from all over Greece, creating a deliciously distinctive and customized gift hamper for a loved one or dear friend. On the run? Order your lunch to go and shop Kostarelos’ selection of readymade cheese platters. Stocked from their wide range of traditionally hand-crafted cheeses - piquant kefalotyris, buttery gravieras or bold maestryris sprinkled with Greek herbs (to name a few!) – they’ll make a great festive gesture for those hard-to-choose-for people on your “to do list” such as colleagues, school teachers,

fathers-in-law or Christmas hosts. You’ll be boosting your cheese IQ too by encountering little-known varieties like apsaki, melipasto and pinakotyri, which corner a sizeable chunk of shelf-space at Kostarelos. It’s here you’ll also discover that feta, the one Greek cheese you thought you did know, comes in every texture imaginable. Soft as a spread, mild and semi-hard when matured for 4 months, and hard with an intense, sharp aftertaste when matured for 12 months. The Kolonaki store (as well as the ones in Vrilissia, Pallini, Porto Rafti and Markopoulo) stock Kostarelos’ cheese but also have a curated selection of artisanal Greek cheeses from small producers. Kostarelos’ Greek cheese platters have even found their way to selected retail stores abroad. Greek legend has it that Aristaios, the son of Apollo and Cyrene, was sent by the Gods to give the Greeks the gift of cheese-making. It was called a ‘gift of everlasting value,’ and if the stellar reputation of Kostarelos’ Greek cheeses is anything to go by, that holds absolutely true. Whatever you do, don’t go home without a Slice of Greece for yourself too. W: kostarelos.gr

Therapy in a Glass! At the GB Roof Garden Bar, there’s no need to feel guilty about that mid-week cocktail splurge. Their exquisite new range of healing cocktails, concocted from the natural herbs and aromas of Greece, can actually do you the power of good! BY SUDHA NAIR-ILIADES

C ocktails

B otanic

You can sample a Royal Botanic Cocktail daily at the GB Roof Garden Restaurant & Bar (8th Floor of Hotel Grande Bretagne, 1, Vasileos Georgiou A) until the end of the year.

R oyal

Cocktails sure aren’t what they used to be. Especially in the city of Athens. In this exciting new era of elevated mixology, every bar proprietor worth their (Himalayan rock) salt now imbues their cocktail menu with a catchy backstory or a poetic purpose. The Hotel Grande Bretagne has entered the ring with a knockout new range of exquisite “healing cocktails” that harness Mother Nature’s aromas and use botanic herbs from Greece, known since antiquity for their medicinal powers, to create a truly novel experiential encounter. With herbs from their own garden (thyme, lavender, sage, oregano, basil), GB Roof Garden, in collaboration with Diageo, have created a medley of aromas to flavor each cocktail and connect your senses to the essence of Greece. Two long-time friends Gregory Liasides (complex Hotel Manager for Hotel Grande Bretagne and King George) and Giotis Aggelides of Diageo (Reserve Brand Ambassador), drew inspiration for the botanic cocktail collection from the recent archaeological discovery of a 4,000-year-old perfume factory containing wellpreserved vials in Aphrodite’s favourite island of Cyprus. The cocktails are served exquisitely, in beautiful perfume decanters, adding to the sensual and olfactory quality of the whole experience. We tried a vodka-based Purple Rain, with its Carrie Bradshaw-style feminine wiles and anxiety-busting lavender, followed by the more complex Basil Dream, built on Tanqueray No TEN gin, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, orange bitters and fresh basil leaves (which initially made you work for its rewards but was ultimately, equally satisfying). The Royal Botanic range doesn’t come cheap, but it is without doubt one of the most immersive and memorable cocktail concepts in the capital right now.

G A S T R O N O M Y

A Sense of Fun Chef Thodoris Papanikolaou brings a radical and playful culinary philosophy with a side order of glorious Acropolis views to Sense, Athens Was’ magnificent new rooftop restaurant. BY SUDHA NAIR-ILIADES Sense Fine Dining Restaurant is a testament to Chef Papanikolaou’s remarkable fusion of culinary skills: a playful audacity rooted in Greek gastronomic tradition, but moulded by a relentless desire to experiment. The result? An utterly distinctive brand of cuisine: refined, cheeky, sincere … and most importantly, a reflection of contemporary Athens. You can tell that Papanikolaou is thoroughly enjoying himself while he’s at it. What emerges from his kitchen is not just a sublime piece of art, but a dish with a strong emotional narrative – the sort of connection that he believes makes a meal memorable, heightens the experience, defines the moment. In no apparent rush to land a Michelin, Papanikolaou concedes that it would be “a welcome addition” to the other accolades he has garnered at Selene in Santorini, (voted by The New York Times as one of the 10 most spectacular restaurants in the world) and at the Michelin-starred Ora D’Aria in Florence. ‘It wouldn’t change the way I cook though,’ he insists. What Papanikolaou’s tenure at these legendary

bastions of gastronomy taught him was to dare to experiment in the vernacular. At Sense, this manifests as intelligently-reimagined Greek classics - flavourful, on point, harmonious, poetic. Two dishes he’d highly recommend, as would we, are the crusted sea bass, layered with taramosalata and topped with the unlikely (but heavenly) garnish of bottarga with the subtlest hint of Greek coffee! It is accompanied with Papanikolaou’s interpretation of the humble ‘fassolada’ – served as a mousse with pickled veggies. The other, is that Greek staple – pasticcio – but served at Sense with mushrooms. Pure culinary magic. This playfulness of daring the guest to push boundaries – to entice, excite and challenge – extends to his brilliant plating. From yellow rubber ducks to meticulously choreographed beets and greens, to the kitschy souvenir shop inspired crème de chocolat Parthenon pillar with tsoureki ice-cream, the visual treats on the plate easily hold their own against the majestic beauty of the Acropolis!

Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Athens, T: 210.920.0240, W: athenswas.gr 73

G A S T R O N O M Y

Sugar and Spice… and all things Nice. Insider visits the new restaurant arrival that’s finally broken the drought for Thai food aficionados on the southside - and encounters a novel dining concept that’s not afraid to leave you a little hot under the collar. BY AMANDA DARDANIS

Whenever my family and I go out for a celebratory dinner somewhere fancy, we like to play the “What would you eat for your Last Meal on Earth?” Game. Part of the fun is the wacky and wonderful choices that my husband and two daughters concoct (chicken and chocolate soup anyone?). But my answer never wavers. Thai food. Every Time. The spicier the better. One of the biggest downers about leaving London and moving to Athens ten years ago was having to forgo my weekly Thai fix (in fact, I could have easily eaten Thai five nights a week!) A decade ago, there was pretty much nothing decent of Asian descent on Athens’ food landscape – especially for us southsiders. Even now, the southside is still scantily served when it comes to authentic Thai and Asian venues plating up restaurant-quality fare. Along with my fellow Thai food fiends (and believe me, our ranks are large), we’ve had to make do with rather pedestrian and bland street food versions, recalibrated for a Greek palate that, traditionally, has not been very heat resistant. Into this sad gastronomic void has finally come Mama Thai – a buzzy new Thai restaurant in Glyfada - that (hallelujah) actually knows how to pack some heat! Tucked into the old Riva Bar space opposite the

Starbucks on popular Giannitsopoulou, Mama Thai has already become a local hotspot (pun intended!). Most Thai restaurants – even the best ones - are fairly functional affairs but Mama Thai has hit upon a winning three-way formula: A bright and breezy atmosphere that’s great fun. Fabulous authentic food that’s created by a real Thai chef (there actually is a “Mama Thai” behind the menu, cooking the traditional Thai dishes that her family have grown up on). And a novel spin - the restaurant co-habits with ice roll, a new-to-Glyfada concept where you can customize your fantasy ice-cream and have it served in delicate cigar-shaped rolls in a dessert glass. Just the taste bud ticket after a hot and spicy culinary encounter. There’s a safe but decent selection of Thai appetizer standards on the menu: spring rolls, chicken satay sticks, tum yum kung soup. I couldn’t resist a favourite old friend, “thai moneybags” (deep fried parcels of deliciousness stuffed with shrimp, crab and chicken) that we paired with a less calorific and pleasingly - tangy

mango s a l a d (mango, carrot, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, onion, trimmed coconut and baby shrimps). Many of the main dishes at Mama Thai, such as the beef with mushrooms and oyster sauce or the grilled pork with red spices and palm sugar, are nicely seasoned but fairly mild on the heat spectrum (no doubt to cater for the afore-mentioned Greek palate). If you want to turn things up a little, go for one of the marvelous curries – there’s a chicken or a beef option (Gaeng Kaew Wan Gai or Kaeng Panang Neua). They are the hottest dishes on the menu and in my opinion, by far the best. But I would say that.

Mama T h a i is a fairly compact space, so you’ll want to book ahead if possible. The “hot ticket” (so to speak) are the tables out the back in the lovely and leafy white-painted brick courtyard. The space has a great upbeat energy, especially on weekends. On the Saturday night we went, the mood music included Stevie Wonder’s “Superstitious” and other feel-good tracks. All the dishes we ordered were prettily plated and we thought the iceroll collaboration made for a great double act. My advice is to go Full Choc (bueno chocolate with double caramel) instead of faffing about with fruit and other variables. Or ask Nikos or Pantelis to devise something wicked for you. Alternatively, you can chase your spicy meal with one of the irresistibly - named tropical cocktails that we saw people drinking all around us like the “Monkey Beach” (dark rum, banana, coconut, lime and ginger). All in all, Mama Thai is an extremely welcome addition to Glyfada’s ever-expanding foodie scene and one that delivers squarely on its menu promise. Thank goodness there’s now somewhere terrific to go to satisfy those constant cravings for us Thai junkies!

Mama Thai, Giannitsopoulou 2, Glyfada, T: 210.894.5009, W: mamathai.gr

G A S T R O N O M Y

Anahita: The Best Persian invasion since Xerxes Athens’ oldest Persian restaurant Anahita is a great jump-off point for first-timers to discover the fragrant flavours and novel textures of Iranian food. Insider shortlists a few must-try dishes in order for you to fully savour this marvelous exotic cuisine. BY SUDHA NAIR-ILIADES You’d have imagined that with the reams devoted to the Persian invasions in Marathon and Sparta, Greeks would be on familiar terms with Persian cuisine too. Strangely – or perhaps understandably - the saffronand rosewater-scented history of the Persian palate has remained largely off-piste in Greece. Worse, its textured and delicate concoctions, aromatic rice pilafs, garnished with dried fruits and nuts and perfumed stews flavored with cinnamon, mint, and pomegranates have long been passed off as ‘Middle-Eastern’ fare. Only too eager to set the record straight is Majid Mirkhosravi, the owner of Greece’s oldest Persian restaurant Anahita. Named for the Persian goddess associated with fertility, healing and wisdom, Anahita has been serving Persian food since 1990 at the same spot in Halandri. A quintessential restaurateur, Majid has kept his regulars coming back for more of Chef Nasreen’s fragrant cuisine (she has been at the helm for the past 27 years), despite challenging times.

“Anahita is not just about great Persian food, it is about having an emotional connection with our customers.” The atmosphere here is reminiscent of a ‘family restaurant’ in Tehran with requisite Persian touches of hookaks and narguiles lining the walls, maroon carpeting and elaborate metalware - a novel-for - Athens dining concept that has also proved popular for corporate events. And as with any neighbourhood favourite in

Tehran, Majid also guarantees halal-certified meat to his loyal regulars.

Seven dishes we recommend you order at Anahita Kashkebadamjan: Fried eggplants with a walnut garlic yoghurt dip. Krafs Salad: A delightfully light and crunchy salad with green apples, celery and radish, topped with a lemon dressing. Fesenjoon: Stewed pomegranate puree, ground walnuts, chopped onions, chunks of poultry or balls of ground meat. Pomegranates are a big deal in Persian cuisine. The tart flavor from ‘the fruit of heaven’ combined with savory spices creates one of the most uniquely Persian dishes. Ghormeh Sabzi: Iran’s most widely eaten stew, this robust dish of stewed greens with parsley, spinach, leeks, coriander, kidney beans, dried lemons, dried fenugreek leaves and turmeric-seasoned lamb or beef is a staple at any Iranian dinner table. Koubideh Kabob: The pride of Persian cuisine and found everywhere from cheap street vendors to fancy restaurants, it is essentially long strips of minced lamb, chicken, or beef grilled over a fire and served alongside charred tomatoes, rice sprinkled with sumac, parsley salad, and flatbread. Pilaf Zaferani: Saffron infused steamed rice with red currants and pistachio, the cornerstone of every Persian meal. Bastani: Traditional Persian Saffron ice cream with pistachio and rose water (even Alexander the Great is known to have confessed a weakness for it).

Anahita, Chrysostomou Smyrnis 3, Halandri. T: 210.689.1222

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Eat & Drink

ACROPOLIS

Da Vinci Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience. Ag. Ioannou 23, T: 210.600.0102

cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retrotinged drink. Themistokleous 82, T: 210.381.0727

Acropolis Museum Restaurant Authentic Greek dishes right across from the Acropolis itself. Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, T: 210.900.0915

Nama Asian fusion cuisine with 20€ sushi buffet on Mon-Tue and 15€ Chinese buffet on Wed-Thu. Kyprou 50, T: 210.600.8936

Warehouse A cosy and refined wine bar that’s long been a neighbourhood favourite. Valtetsiou 21, T: 215.540.8002

Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci. Porinou 13, T: 210.921.1801

Nanninela Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional décor. Peloponessou 13, T: 210.600.5622

Atrium Refined Greek cuisine and fab Sunday brunches in a sunlit conservatory. Rovertou Galli 4, T: 210.923.6832

Island flavours with an urban twist. Mesogeion Av. 356, Bouillabaisse T: 210.651.1354 Zisimopoulou 28, T: 210.942 5203

EAT | Restaurants

Indian Chef Authentic Indian cuisine in great central location. Athanasiou Diakou 22, T: 210.923.6336 Indian Haveli Sumptuous Indian dishes in an exotic and romantic environment. Syngrou Av. 12, T: 210.924.4522

Νisson Gi

Steak-I Strictly for carnivores! Korai Sq 2-4, T: 213.037.0700

EXARHIA EAT | Restaurants

Chez Violette Travel to France with wonderful Mani Mani French fare and wines (and Peloponnesian specialities in a lovely neoclassical building. Falirou live music every Tuesday). Kallidromiou 69, T: 210.384.5974 10, T: 210.921.8180 Fabrica de Vino Stylish rooftop cocktail-and-dining 85 wine etiquettes and den with creative menu and stellar mini mezzes in an industrial environment. Em. Benaki 3, Acropolis views. Hotel Herodion, Rovertou Galli 4a, T: 210.923 6832 T: 210.321.4148 Mama Tierra Sense Fine Dining Restaurant Gourmet cuisine with unbeatable Serving a variety of fast and healthy vegan and vegetarian Acropolis views. Athens Was Hotel, Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, T: food. Academias 84, T: 211.411.4420 210.920.0240 Mystic Pizza DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Italian staples made with organic Lounges and eco-friendly ingredients in a relaxed and casual setting. Drupes & Drips Emmanouil Benaki 76, A watering-hole for aesthetes, a stone’s throw from the Acropolis. T: 210.383.9500 Zitrou 20, T: 210.923.0052 Salero Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia. Valtetsiou 51, T: 210.381.3358

Point α

AG. PARASKEVI

Salty Pig The Salty Pig offers American and Canadian street food. Barbecue, Gaidaros smoked meat, burgers and tacos A hidden courtyard with homewithin a nice and friendly cooked cuisine. Ellinoservikis Filias all atmosphere. Ippokratos 36, 52, T: 210.600.4724 T: 210.364.7445 Kolovos Yantes Several reasons to visit, but its Modern Greek cuisine prepared succulent spare ribs top the list. organic ingredients. Peloponessou 75, T: 210.651.0989 with Valtetsiou 44, T: 210.330.1369

EAT | Restaurants

Silly Wizards DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Great selection of beers and Mexican finger food. Peloponessou Lounges 79, T: 210.654.3908 Vox One of the oldest summer

FALIRO EAT | Restaurants

Da Bruno Rich list with Italian flavours. Ag. Alexandrou 46, T: 210.981.8959 DruiD Cosmic European and international flavours dished up in a high-aesthetic environment. Afroditis 57, T: 210.984.8151 Il Tinello Real Italian home cooking. Knossou 54, T: 210.982.8462 Kitchen Bar Comfort food overlooking the sea. Poseidonos 3, T: 210.981.2004 Suzanna Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine. Orpheus & Chariton 5, T: 210.942.8129

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Zinc Cocktails with music. “Flisvos” Marina, T: 210.985.3183

GAZI EAT | Restaurants The Big Kahuna Exotic street food. Salaminos 42, T: 210.524.4100 Butcher’s Shop Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes. Persefonis 19, T: 210.341.3440

Hoxton Bar A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London. Voutadon 42, T: 210.341.3395 Gazarte Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events. Voutadon 32-34, T: 210.346.0347 Gasoline All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights. Gargittion 23Α, T: 210.346.9396 MoMix Temple of mixology and highquality bartending. Keleou 1-5, T: 697.435.0179 Pixi Get in to the groove. Evmolpidon 11, T: 210.342.3751 Plastiko Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood. Sofroniou 12A, T: 210.341.0308 Socialista Mainstream bar-club in industrial setting. Triptolemou 33, T: 210.347.4733

GLYFADA EAT | Bakeries & Patisseries Paul A real French boulangerie that serves meals too. Esperidon Sq. & Kyprou 70, T: 210.894.7169

Prosopa Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train EAT | Restaurants tracks. A popular gay haunt. Meg. Vassiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos All Senses Gastronomy Lives up to its name of tickling 4, T: 210.341.3433 your senses. Lazaraki 12, T: 210.898.0080 Lime Bistro A vegan and vegetarian eatery Aperitivo serving coffee and food in a modern environment. Dekeleo 23, Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting. Kyprou 70, T: T: 210.347.4423 210.894.0377

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Bios An avant-garde multi-level venue housing a bar, a basement club, art exhibitions, music venues, and a rooftop garden. Pireos 84, T: 210.342.5335 78

guaranteed to make you feel like royalty. Veroias 13, T: 210.345.9299

Tha Se Kano Vasilissa A wine-and-whiskey bar

Ark Chef Yiannis Baxevanis brings Miami-inspired opulence to Glyfada. Grigoriou Lambraki 2, T: 210.894.8882 Blends New high-concept dining space with day to night propositions including cigar lounge. Foivis 19 &

Laodikis, T: 211.1821711

Pavlou 48, T: 210.894.9550

To Elliniko Great value-for-money mezedes. Lazaraki 28, T: 210.894.1471

Nomi Italian Restaurant Terrific Italian fare at great prices. Laodikis 47, T: 210.898.6015

Giouvetsakia Organic mageirefta food. Ithomis 20 & Moreos, T: 210.964.8081 El Catrin Latin flavours, exotic cocktails, funky décor. Fivis 15, T: 210.894.5002 Hama Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting. Grigoriou Lambraki 34, T: 210.960.0595

Oh Mama All-day venue with retro environment and classic brunch offerings. Kyprou 48, T: 210.898.6049 Pere Ubu Fab burgers, great cocktails, right next to the sprawling UBU organic store. Kyprou 74, Tel: 211.215.8737 Psaraki Mediterranean seafood in friendly setting. Lazaraki 10 & Dousmani 14, T: 210.968.0040

Holy Spirit Cocktail Bar with great menu and beautiful atmosphere. Laodikis 41, T: 210.898.2650 Sardelaki Sardines and seafood in a casual Il Salotto setting. Foivis 15, T: 211.402.1195 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare. Markou Botsari 13, Sale Bianco da Salvotoro T: 210.894.8397 Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere. Markou Indi-Go Botsari 10A, T: 210.898.6301 Southside Indian favourite with festive décor and Soleto good-value Sunday buffet. Stylish year-round hotspot for Konstantinoupoleos 15, lunch, coffee, dinner or drinks in T: 210.968. 0643 fashionable Laodikis str. Laodikis 33, T: 210.968.0460 Jamon Pintxos Bar Basque “pinchos” in a cozy setting. Su Casa Laodikis 33-35, T: 210.894.6089 Authentic Mexican food paired with any type of tequila you Keep Woking could want. Kyprou 82, T: Create-your-own Asian cuisine, 210.898.5554 fast and funky. Dimitriou Gounari 70, T: 211.012.2801 Spiti A perfect place for a family meal La Casa Di Giorgino with great food and cocktails. Authentic Italian pizza made in a Lazaraki 12, T: 210.898.0080 traditional wood-burning oven. Kyprou 30-32, T: 210.963.8770 Tartare Gourmet French cuisine that Mama Thai draws regulars. Al. Panagouli 52, Thai cuisine, the real deal. T: 210.968.0320 Giannitsopoulou 2, Glyfada, T: 210.894.5009.

Mimaya Creative Mediterranean cuisine. Markou Botsari 8, T: 210.894.4850 Molly Malone’s Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens. Yannitsopoulou 8, T: 210.894.4247 Mutfak Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting. Laodikis 38, T: 210.894.9060 Nikolas Tis Schinousas Chic Greek fish tavern along Glyfada’s seafront. Diadohou

The Burger Joint NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.

EAT | Restaurants

To Livaneziko Authentic Lebanese dishes prepared in the heart of Glyfada. Konstantinopoleous 20, T: 210.894.0024 Vincenzo Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch. Giannitsopoulou 1, T: 210.894.1310

30 Something Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere. Iroon Sq 8, T: 210.689.9227

Yi Vegan-raw based menu with lactose, sugar and gluten-free offerings and friendly atmosphere. Grigoriou Lampraki 69, T: 210.964.8512

Bo Botrini’s Athens’ best table by far. Vassileos Georgiou B 24b, T: 210.685.7323

EAT | Creperies

Anahita The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes. Chr. Smirnis 3, T: 210.689.1222

Chapeau Une cuisine primée. Sokratous 4, T: 210.684.5300

To Paramythi Creperie in a fairy-tale setting. Kyprou 9, T: 210.894.1361

Chefi’s Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings. Perikleous 31, T: 210.681.5774

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

DeCounti All-day French glamour devoted to classic Mediterranean dishes. Kifissias Av. 222, T: 210.674.2229

Balux Waterfront lounging. Poseidonos 58, T: 210.898.3577 Bourbon American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events. Daskaroli 67, T: 210.964.7600 Mikro Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs. Laodikis 33-35, T: 210.894.1031 Vinarte A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool décor. Marangou 18, T: 210.894.1511

HALANDRI

Eat & Drink

Foivis 17, T: 210.894.0260

El Taco Bueno Mexican flavours in a traditional setting. Aristotelous 84, T: 210.684.0460 Saipan Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia. K. Varnali 9, T: 210.685.0644 Psomi & Alati Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist. Eleftherioton Sq 8, T: 210.684.8178 Sea Spice Minimalist decor with retro touches and sublime seafood. Kiprou 80, T: 212.105.4489

The Abbot A very special bar-restaurant with wooden and stone decoration. “Abbot” drinks and comfort food are served with a modern twist by the Chef Akis Amidas. Vassileos Georgiou 3, T: 210.682.5881 Τo Vazaki - Juice Bar Juice bar with a seasonal menu, fresh, vegan, gluten free, raw blends, dine in or delivered by bike. Aristotelous 33, T: 210.680.0067 Oh Mama Charming detached house, great for cocktails and brunches. Kiprou

Eat & Drink

48, T: 210.898.6049 Wine Not Industrial setting with eclectic wine list. Kalogrezis 12, T: 210.670.02945

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Hide & Seek Great drink menu and perfect garden for spring and summer. Kifissias Av. 254, T: 210.677.6747 Spiti Cocktail Bar Great cocktails and sophisticated jazz tunes. Αndrea Papantreou 9, T: 210.683.3677

HILTON EAT | Restaurants

Galaxy Bar Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere. Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, T: 210.728.1402

KERAMEIKOS EAT | Restaurants Aleria Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting. Meg. Alexandrou 57, T: 210.522.2633 Athiri Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings. Plataion 15, T: 210.346.2983 Fill the Bracket Delicious brunch and unique cocktails served in a neoclassical House bar. Thermopilon 41, T: 210.520.5324

Vassilenas Exquisite Greek specialties. Vrassida 13, T: 210.721.0501

Funky Gourmet Haute cuisine in art deco interior. Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, T: 210.524.2727

Byzantino Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist. Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, T: 210.728.1400

Polly Maggoo Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern setting. Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, T: 210.524.1120

Cookoovaya Five famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors. Chatzigianni Mexi 2A, T: 210.723.5005 CTC Different 6 course menus every night, with exceptional quality! Oumplianis 14 & Dioharous 27, T: 210.722.881 Galaxy Resturant Great sushi, amazing views and perfect to refuel after a stint at the Galaxy Bar. Vasilisis Sofias Avenue 46, T: 210.728.1402 Leilimlei A culinary melting pot of east meets west. Baltinon 2, T: 211.700.9383 Milos Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money. Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, T: 210.724.4400

Seychelles Greek cuisine with seasonal menu. eramikou 49, T: 211.183.4789 Tamarind Thai food in a beautiful setting. Keramikou 51, T: 210.522.5945

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Nixon

Top Athenian hedonist hangout for the 30-something crowd. Agisilaou 61B, T: 210.346.2077

KIFISSIA EAT | Bakeries & Patisseries Paul French boulangerie. Levidou 3, T: 210.808.4288

EAT | Restaurants

Tapas Bar Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain. Ventiri 7, T: 210.721.2080

21 Restaurant Highly recommended.Refined al-fresco dining with excellent service. Kolokotroni 21, T: 210.623.352

Vezene Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef. Vrasida 11, T: 210.723.2002

Artisanal Unique lounge & garden with exceptional classy touch. Zirini 2, T: 693.614.4744

Vlassis Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food. Meandrou 15, T: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335

Berdema Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare. Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, T: 210.620.1108

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges CV Bar A classic bar with superb knowledge and love for spirits and jazz music. Chatzigianni Mexi 7, T: 210.7231767

Blue Pine A hark back to retro Athens. P. Tsaldari 37, T: 210.807.7745 Buba Mixing pot of cuisines from around the world. Papadiamanti

4, T: 210.623.1151 Common Secret Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting. Kifissias Av. 324, T: 210.623.3810 Different Beast Urban chic meets rustic flair with original brunch offerings. Kassaveti 19, T: 216.700.4556 Dos Hermanos Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas. Kyriazi 24, T: 210.808.7906 Elaias Gi The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city. Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, T: 210.620.6433 Golden Phoenix Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet. Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortynias, T: 210.801.3588 Il Salumaio di Atene Specially-prepared Italian meals. Panagitsas 3, T: 210.623.3934

delicious cocktails, hip urban setting. Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, T: 210.623.1181 Oozora Japanese-Thai fusion restaurant. Th. Diligianni 54, T: 210.801.8515 O Tzitzikas Kai O Mermigas A modern tavern serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices. Drosini 12-14, T: 210.623.0080 Royal Thai Thai cuisine in an opulent setting. Zirini 12, T: 210.623.2323 Stoffa Imaginative Greek cuisine in a romantic garden setting. Vasilissis Amalias 20, T: 210.801.3853 Suba A blend of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine. Levidou 11, T: 210.808.5586

Telemachos Barbeque Club Rare meats char-grilled to perfection. Fragkopoulou 22, T: 210.807.6680

Kastellorizo Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please. Platanon 2, T: 210.807.5408

The Dalliance House The 19th century meets the 21st in beautiful setting, with successful recipes. Kyriazi 19, T: 210.623.0775

Kool Life Innovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli. Life Gallery, Thisseos 103, T: 211.106.7400

The Wilbury A food-centric gastropub with eclectic Greek beers. Kifissias Av. 238, T: 210.808.9454

La Gabinoteca Tapas bar with decadent atmosphere. Th. Diligianni 56, T: 210.808.3988

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Margherita Fantastic pizza made with local ingredients from all over Greece. Kifisias Av. 363, T: 211.408.1132

Escoba Burgers, steaks, Tex-Mex fast food, plus Latin music & dance nights in a vibrant US-style hangout. Patr. Maximou 1, T: 210.623.3550

DRINK | Cafes

Nargile Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience. Harilaou Trikoupi 50, T: 210.808.3333

Menta Café Traditional home turned stylish café. Ag. Theodoron 10, T: 210.808.0193

Nice n Easy Veggie paradise in leafy Kifissia. Papadiamanti 7, T: 210.808.2014

FOOD & WINE

Nolita High-quality Italian cuisine,

Cellier By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town.

Kifissias Av. 22, T: 210.277.7065

Stinking Bishops Fashionable gastro pub. Loukianou 36, T: 213.026.3656

Altamira Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment. Perikleous 28, T: 210.612.8841

TGI Friday’s American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce for casual dining! Kolokotroni 35, T: 210.623.3945

Kifissias Av. 369, T: 210.801.8756

51, T: 210.722.9106

Vinifera Selection of wines from all over the world along with selected gourmet choices. Kifissias Av. 317, T: 210.807.7709

La Pierrade Elegant setting, refined cuisine, extremely polite service. Spefsippou 30, T: 210.723.7297

KOLONAKI EAT | Bakeries & Patisseries Cake For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more. Irodotou 15, T: 210.721.2253, Fresh Desserts and cakes Valaoritou 7, T: 210.364.2948 Patriarchou Ioakeim 9, T: 210.729.3453

EAT | Restaurants Cafe Boheme Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails. Omirou 36, Tl: 210.360.8018 Capanna People-watching and authentic Italian fare. Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, T: 210.724.1777 Cinco Great cocktails and specialty tapas. Skoufa 52, T: 210.364.3603 Codice Blu Italian cuisine, great for family brunches and people-watching. Haritos & Loukianou, T: 210.723.0896 Filippou Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes. Xenokratous 19, T: 210.721.6390 Freud Oriental Creative fusion cuisine. Xenokratous 21, T: 210.729.9595 IT restaurant Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment. Skoufa 29, T: 210.363.5773 Izakaya Cosy Japanese fusion with cocktails for all tastes. Leventi 5, T: 210.724.4406 Kalamaki Kolonaki Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy. Ploutarchou 32, T: 210.721.8800 L’Abreuvoir Fine French cuisine. Xenokratous

La Suite Lounge Gourmet Greek cuisine. St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, T: 210.741.6000

Tuttitalia An authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria. Valaoritou 14, T: 210.338.9669

Aneton Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s. Stratigou Lekka 19, T: 210.806.6700 Dal Professore Italian menu with a menu that changes daily! Agiou Konstantinou 56, T: 210.610.9988

Yoleni’s Multi-floored Greek Gastronomy emporium with olive oil tastings, cooking seminars and garden café. Solonos 9, T: 212.222.3600

Holy Green Organic locally sourced salad and juice bar. Fragokklisias 3A, T: 210.610.5002

Zurbaran A past-meets-future food and décor concept. Patriarchou Ioakeim 38, T: 210.723.8334

Mauzac Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must. Alamanas 1, T: 210.619.9902

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Malconi’s Great food, bustling atmosphere. Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarchou, T: 210.724.8920

56 A quaint jazzy whiskey bar for the discerning. Ploutarchou 56, T: 210.723.1424

Pausa Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines. Agiou Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3, T: 210.617.9290

Mayor Elegant and modern all-day restaurant and bar in a lively Kolonaki Square. Filikis Eterias Sq 19, T: 210.364.8156

Mai Tai Early evening cocktails in a laidback atmosphere. Ploutarhou 18, T: 210.725.8306

Prytaneion Generous portions of Mediterranean fare. Golden Hall, Kifissias Av., T: 210.683.8083

Skoufaki All time classic café bar. Skoufa 47-49, T: 210.364.5888

Rey Pablo After its restaurant in Voula, Rey Pablo has opened in Maroussi. It offers brunch, burgers, sandwiches, salads, pasta and coffee. Agio Constantios 61, Green Plaze, T: 210.614.7229

Nice n Easy Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music. Omirou 60 & Skoufa, T.: 210.361.7201 Nikkei Peruvian aromas and flavours in Kolonaki! Leventi 3, T: 210.723.9366 Orizontes Lycavyttou Gourmet dining with a spectacular view. Lycabettus Hill, T: 210.722.7065 Papadakis Paros’ legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens. Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A, T: 210.360.8621 Ratka Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine. Haritos 32, T: 210.729.0746 Red Door Authentic Japanese experience. Tsakalof 6, T: 210.364.7712 Sale e Pepe Authentic Italian trattoria. Aristipou 34, T: 210.723.4102 Scala Vinoteca Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining. Sina 50, T: 210.361.0041 Simul A chic but relaxed Kolonaki eaterie with enticing mix ‘n’ match menu. Ipsilantou 63, T: 210.722.4737 Spiros & Vasilis Original French cuisine. Lachitos

T5 A classy all-day bar with tasty Asian-inspired concoctions. Tsakalof 5, T: 210.362.1776 Ten One of the most popular hot spots in town. Ploutarhou 10, T: 210.721.0161

DRINK | Cafés Da Capo Long-established people-watching hangout. Tsakalof 1, T: 210.360.2497 Pero’s Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot! Kolonaki Square, T: 210.364.5068

Pure

Pure offers a juice lab, coffee, wraps, cakes, and other healthy options. Sina 21, T: 213.036.3671

DRINK | Tea To Tsai Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world. Soutsou 19, T: 210.338.8941

MAROUSSI EAT | Restaurants Agani Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine.

Wagamama Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting. Golden Hall, Kifissias Av. 37A, T: 210.683.6844

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Tranzistoraki A Greek mezze bar which offers the best food and drinks. Cheese, ouzo, and cocktails are on the menu. Anavritton 6, T: 210.801.2941

MAVILI SQ EAT | Restaurants 48 Urban Garden Cool, minimalist environment and interesting, fusion cuisine. Armatolon kai Klefton 48, T: 210.80.18.515 Fuga Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall. Vas. Sofias & Kokkali 1, T: 210.724.2979, Ginger Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere. Dorileou 10-12, T: 210.645.1169 St’Astra For an unforgettable roof-top

Eat & Drink

5, T: 210.723.7575

Eat & Drink

dining experience. Alexadras 10, T: 210.889.4517 To Parko Eleftherias Classic recipes and nice atmosphere in a lush green park. Next to Megaron Mousikis, T: 210.722.3784

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Balthazar Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd. Tsoha 27, T: 210.644.1215 Baraonda Gourmet cuisine and funky beats. Tsoha 43, T: 210.644.4308 Briki Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout. Dorileou 6, T: 210.654.2380

MONASTIRAKI EAT | Restaurants Bairaktaris Old-world tavern serving traditional Greek fare. Monastiraki Square 2, T: 210.321.3036 Café Avissinia Specializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends. Kynetou 7, T: 210.321.7047 Cosa Nostra Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere. Ay. Theklas 5, T: 210.331.0900 Falafellas Alternative authentic street food in the heart of Athens. Aiolou Street 51, T: 210.323.9809 Fontana Living Well Healthy concoctions hot, cold, and edible. Aiolou 17, T: 210.325.4112 Grexico Mexican Street Food Tantalising Mexican flavours. Fokionos 4, T: 210.331.5540 Melilotos Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients. Kalamiotou 19, T: 210.322.2458 Savvas Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali. Ermou 91, T: 210.321.1167 Souvlaki Bar Attractive and inviting taverna with healthy fast-food. Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, T: 210.515.0550 Thanassis A souvlaki lover’s paradise. Mitropoleos 69, T: 210.324.4705 To Kouti Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient Agora. Adrianou 23, T: 210.321.3229

Vegan Nation

A tasty and affordable vegan restaurant with healthy food for lunch and dinner. Ermou 86, T: 210.322.6226

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges 360 Cocktail Bar Roof bar and restaurant right on Monastiraki square with panoramic city and Acropolis views. Ifestou 2, T: 210.321.0006 A for Athens An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis. Miaouli 2-4, T: 210.324.4244 Couleur Locale A young scene with great cocktails and affordable finger food overlooking the Acropolis. Normanou 3, T: 206.700.4917

Lykourgou, T: 210.325.0900

T: 210.346.4236

Trata Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens. Themistokleous 8 & Nikitara 9, T: 210.383.8531

Clap The Restaurant Meat lovers’ paradise on the top floor of Kakoyiannis foundation. Pireos 206, T: 210.341.1908

PANGRATI EAT | Restaurants Fatsio Greek food & political gossip. Efroniou 5, T: 210.721.7421

Blue Bamboo

Thai food with modern interior design. Kidantidon 24, T: 210.342.3124 Thio Tragi Creative gourmet kitchen with high quality ingredients. Kidantidon 36, T: 210.341.0296

Loukoumi Bar An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views. Plateia Avissinias 3, T: 210.323.4814

IT Organic, healthy eating for millennials. Efroniou 18, T: 210.723.5813 Mavro Provato Best value-for-money meal in Athens. Ariannou 31, T: 210.722.3466

Six Dogs A day & night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden. Avramiotou 6-8, T: 210.321.0510

Spondi A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens. Pyrronos 5, T: 210.756.4021

Spollati A delicious combination of signature cocktails with homemade syrups and funky Mediterranean cuisine. Aiolou 27A, T: 215.551.3004

Trapezaria Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting. Efronionos 13, T: 210.921.3500

1920

Trata O Stelios The best grilled fish in town. Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, T: 210.729.1533

Captain John’s Traditional seafood. Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, T: 210.417.7589

DRINK | Live Bars

Che Karaiskou 151, T: 210.429.6660

Taf Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions. Normanou 5, T: 210.323.8757

DRINK | Cafes Mokka Best espresso in town. Athinas 44, T: 210.321.6892 Tailor Made Trendy and hip coffee shop and cocktail bar. Aghias Irinis Sq. 2, T: 213.004.9645

OMONIA EAT | Restaurants Athinaikon A traditional Greek ouzeri. Themistokleous 2, T: 210.383.8485 Duck Soup Cheery Mediterranean delicatessen with great sandwiches, salads and service! Panepistimiou 39, T: 210.323.3916 Mama Tierra Super tasty vegetarian and vegan fare with a maternal flourish at reasonable prices. Akadimias 84, T: 211.411.4420 Olive Garden Good food and great view of the Acropolis. Hotel Titania, Panepistimiou 52, T: 210.332.600 Pallas Athena Urban design, organic cuisine, Cretan deli corner. Athinas 65 &

Abaroriza A pet friendly place with long balcony tables that fill up every night. Eratosthenous 33, T: 210.701.9530 Half Note Jazz Club A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene. Trivonianou 17, T: 210.921.3310 Superfly The new hot spot for retro gamers. Empedokleous 28-30, T: 211.404.6076

PETRALONA EAT | Restaurants Andaman Thai food in an exotic setting. Alopis 65, T: 211.210.4939

Chez Lucien

Down-to-earth French bistro for communal dining. Troon 32,

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Kurios Hou Among Petralona’s trendy dining options with attitude. Yperionos 1 & Dimofontos, T: 210.342.3972

PIRAEUS EAT | Restaurants Friendly food and atmosphere. Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, T: 210.461.2457

Dourambeis Classic fish tavern. Ak. Protopsalti 29, T: 210.412.2092

Jimmy and The Fish

Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada. Ak. Mikrolimanou, T: 210.412.4417 Hams and Clams A favorite haven for surf and turf lovers by the creators of Corks & Forks in Piraeus. Akti Themistokleous 36 & Pargas 2, T: 210.418.6683 Lykos Steak House Modern Greek meals are served with an open area cuisine and lively atmosphere. A great list of red wines are available. Aitolikou 72, T: 210.461.2457 Papaioannou For Greek fish specialities on the harbourfront. Akti Koumoundourou 42, T: 210.422.5059 Rouan Thai Home-style Thai food. Notara 131,

T: 211.411.8437

Kolokotroni 59B, T: 211.215.9534

Tony Bonano Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour. Papanastasiou 63, T: 210.411.1901

Brettos Legendary watering-hole in the Plaka district. Kydathaneon 41, T: 210.323.2110

Varoulko Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou. Ak. Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, T: 210.522.8400 Vosporos Mediterranean dining with a sea view. Akti Koumoundourou 20, T: 210.412.7324

Daphne’s Restaurant Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere. Lysikratous 4, T: 210.322.7971

The Clumsies Features tasty cocktails and premium spirits that attract all ages. Praxitelous 30, T: 210.323.2682

Zefyros Fresh seafood on the quay. Ak. Koumoundourou 48, T: 210.417.5152 Zorbas Unique flavours of the Mediterranean. Ak. Koumoundourou 14, T: 210.411.1663

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Istioploikos One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina. Ak. Microlimanou, T: 210.413.4084 Katafigio Club, cafe & beer house. Ak. Koumoundourou 4, T: 210.413.1612 Mary Pickford Varoulko Seaside, Akti Koumoundourou 52, T: 210.412.3308

PLAKA EAT | Restaurants 2 Mazi Creative gourmet dishes in a beautiful garden setting. Nikis 48, T: 210.322.2839 7 Food Sins A handsome gourmet gastro-pub in Plaka’s charming Filomousou Etairias square. Filomousou Eterias Sq. 1, T: 210.701.1108 Balcony Restaurant & Bar Modern Greek Cuisine served on a neo-classical balcony with a unique view of Athens. Veikou 1,

Electra Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine. Nikodimou 18-20, T: 210.337.0000

Throubi A cozy and colorful space with a good selection of coffee and cocktails. Aghias Eirinis Square & Vasilikis 1, T: 210.323.0926 Warehouse CO2 New cosy all-day nook with an accent on sparkling wines. Iperidou 1, T: 210.324.7048

Froots

Smoothie bar with a happy-golucky atmosphere. Athanasiou Diakou 6 & Porinou, T: 210.922.2234 L’Audrion Delicious traditional French specialties including a wide range of wines. Filomousou Etaireias Square 3 & Farmaki 1, T: 210.324.1193 Mono Wine Restaurant Unpretentious gourmet cuisine. Ven. Paleologou 4, T: 210.322.6711 Novagea A juice and coffee “corner” serving healthy bites for a light snack and energizing place to sit. Vakchou 1 & Vyronas, T: 211.401.7427 La Pantera Negra A bistro with a hard rock touch that combines Japanese yin with Peruvian yang. Kalogrini 6, T: 213.036.4214 Psaras Traditional Restaurant Traditional Greek food set in two old stone mansions. Erotokritou & Erechtheos 16, T: 210.321.8733 Scholarheio A traditional tray tavern with old-fashioned decor & prices. Tripodon 14, T: 210.324.1605 Ydria Taditional Greek cuisine. Adrianou 68 & Eolou, T: 210.325.1619

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Noël An evening lounge scene with friendly service and Italian inspired food and drink.

PSYCHICO EAT | Restaurants

refreshing cocktails inspired from the far east. Kifissias Av. 304, T: 211.411.2211 Krithamos Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere. Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, T: 210.672.8790 La Piazzetta Homey Italian trattoria with wood oven-baked pizzas in central but peaceful locale. 28is Oktovriou 4, T: 210.675.3732 Ombra Italian food with attitude. Lykourgou 2, T: 210.671.1320 Piperia Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours. Agg. Sikelianou 8, T: 210.672.9114

310 Street Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look. Kifissias Av. 310, T: 210.671.0688

Polly Maggoo Buzzy French eaterie arranged over two floors with two very different moods. Aggelou Sikelianou 8, T: 210.524.1120

Albion Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere. Omirou 6, T: 210.674.0710

P.s.Pecora Mediterranean cuisine with Italian flair. Ag. Georgiou 1 & Olympionikon, T: 210.672.8107

Antaios Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes. G. Drosini 7, T: 210.675.5493

Rena Tis Ftelias Highly recommended Greek taverna. 25th Martiou 28, T: 210.674.3874

Barabicu 25 Martiou 28, T: 210.674.8718

The Burger Joint

Bluefield Burger For real American burgers. Aggelopoulou 3, T: 210.677.7739 China’s Fantasy Chinese cuisine. Kambouroglou 32, T: 210.674.9889 Dioskouroi All day café-restaurant. Dim. Vasiliou 16, T: 210.671.3997 Dourampeis Oyster Delectable seafood and fresh oysters. Andrianiou 37, T: 210.671.0100 Fish Co. Platters A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna. Perikleous 11, T: 210.671.1976 Gaspar Food & Mood Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches. Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, T: 210.677.5011 Hachiko Sushi Authentic Japanese dishes and

Eat & Drink

T: 210.429.4494

New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment. Solomou 4-6, T: 210.671.2222

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Geona’s Atmospheric fine-dining hangout dug into a green corner of Palaio Psychiko. Davaki 1 & 28is Oktovriou, T: 210.675.5571 Kudu Authentic coffee experience. 25th Martiou 22, T: 217.722.3040

PSYRRI EAT | Restaurants Cosa Nostra Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere. Agias Theklas 3, T: 210.331.0900 Diporto Old-world tavern offers bargain

The Concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel recommends Eat

Drink

New

333 Chef’s Workshop

Monsieur Cannibale

Classic

Kollias Seafood

Low Profile Whisky Bar

Alternative

7 Food Sins Gastro Pub

Faust

Do Van Gogh Alive Megaron Mousikis A journey through Cycladic culture, Museum of Cycladic Art Science Fiction: A Journey into the Unknown, Onassis Cultural Centre 83

Eat & Drink

do the talking. Skoufou 6, T: 211.407.8457

basics like salads, sardines & fava. Sokratous 9, T: 210.321.1463

Taqueria Maya Feisty Mexican street food choices at pocket-friendly prices. Petraki 10, T: 211.216.7081

Falafellas Gourmet ethnic street food. Aiolou 51, T: 210.323.9809

The Parliament International cuisine with Mediterranean accents. NJV Athens Plaza Hotel, V. Georgiou A & Stadiou, T: 210.335.2400

Gostijo Kosher menu and Mediterranean “repertoire”. Aisopou 10, T: 210.323.3825 Epiros Tavern Great traditional Greek tavern, an excellent place for lunch. Athens Central Market, Filopimenos 4, T: 210.324.0773

Ochre & Brown

Mediterranean/French cuisine. Leokoriou 7, T: 210.331.2950

Panepistimiou 10, T: 210.722.4824 service. Apollonos 6, T: 210.323.7720

EAT | Restaurants 42 Barstronomy

Vibrant bar with modern flavors to refresh your favorite Athenian Spot. Kolokotroni 3, T: 213.005.153

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Avocado A veggie restaurant that. Nikis 30, T: 210.323.7878

Beer Time Relaxed atmosphere with wide selection of microbrews. Iroon Square 1, T: 210.322.8443

Black Duck Multiplarte Popular multi-space hot spot combining gallery, café, bar and sophisticated restaurant. Christou Lada 9, T: 210.323.4760

Booze Cooperativa A multi-purpose meeting venue for drinks, performances, and games. Kolokotroni 57, T: 211.405.3733

By The Glass Charming wine bar with character. Souri 2, T: 210.323.2560

Cinque Wine & Deli Free wine tastings of local grapes and traditional homemade Greek morsels. Agatharhou 15, T: 215.501.7853 Cantina Social Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing. Leokoriou 6, T: 210.325.1668 Dude Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”. Kalamiotou 14, T: 210.322.7130

SYNTAGMA EAT | Bakeries & Patisseries Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises Fresh bagels and French pastries. Nikis 13, Syntagma, T: 210.323.9829 Paul A true French patisserie.

City Bistro Refined cuisine in chic setting. Stoa Spiliomilou, T: 210.321.1315 Dosirak Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens. Voulis 31-33, T: 210.323.3330

Ioannis Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop. Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, T: 210.928.8400 Koi Affordable street-food style sushi. Apollonos 1, T: 210.321.1099

Wild in the City Urban newcomer specializing in healthy-eating options with no cereals or processed ingredients. Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7, T: 210.331.5776

Los Loros Venezuelan and Colombian street food in a buzzy space. Xenofontos 14 & Nikis, T: 210.324.3232,

Zonar‘s Athens’ iconic meeting place continues to charm. Voukourestiou 9, T : 210.325.1430

Makalo Local hangout with fun vibe and great Greek-style cocktails. Nikis 23, T: 211.406.7032

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Mama Roux A comfortable atmosphere with a variety of international cuisine and an elaborate Sunday brunch. Aiolou 48, T: 213.004.8382 New Taste Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist. New Hotel, Filellinon 16, T: 210.327.3170

Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy Nolan Funky interior, a delightful patch of green space. Ktena 1, Athens, T: All-day concept restaurant blending tastes of Japan, Vietnam, 210.321.0551 Korea and China with indigenous Greek touches. Voulis 31-33, GB Roof Garden T:210.324.3545 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine. Hotel Grand Bretagne, T: 210.333.0750 Noodle Bar A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix. Apollonos 11, Gaku T: 210.331.8585 After its success in the northern suburb of Athens with its sushi bar/Izakya, Gaku restaurant is O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas sharing the same Japanese and Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly lovely taste in a new setting. combining modern & traditional Apolonos 2, T: 210.323.0970 elements. Mitropoleos 12-14, T: 210.324.7607 Bar 333 & Chef’s Workshop Theme Restaurant Pasaji Cool design touches, international Bang in the heart of Athens’ luxe flavours and frequent winezone. Stoa Spyromiliou, tastings. 3 Navarchou Nikodimou T: 210 .322.0714 & 33 Nikis, T: 210.331.1436 Peek a Bloom Indian Kitchen Experience coffee to cocktails in A Bollywood symphony of Indian the Center of Athens. Lekka 14, flavours with swift and friendly T: 210.321.9000 Plaza Lounge All day lounge with salads & snacks. NJV Athens Plaza Hotel, V. Georgiou A & Stadiou, T: 210.335.2400 Poke Hawaiian Sushi Serving a Hawaiian twist on sushi. Petraki 7, T: 210.322.6653

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge Elegant setting, refined cuisine and an incredible Acropolis view. King George Hotel, Vas. Georgiou A3, T: 210.322.2210

42 Bar Delicious creative cocktails and mixology. Kolokotroni 3, T: 213.0052153 Ampariza A wall of booze for serious drinkers. Lekka 14, T: 210.325.7644 Alexander’s For cherished cigar and single malt evenings. Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq T: 210.333.0000 Baba Au Rum Amazing cocktails and rum collection with a cozy environment. Klitiou 6, T: 211.710.9140 Barreldier An all-day café-cum-watering hole open into the wee hours. Voulis 7, T: 210.325.4711 Barley Cargo Enjoy a wide selection of international and Greek beers accompanied by live music. Kolokotroni 6, T: 210.323.0445 Drunk Sinatra A friendly place to drink to vintage music from the ‘50s and ‘60s. Thisseos 16, T: 210.331.3733 Explorer’s Lounge Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere. NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Sq., T: 210.335.2400 Heteroclito A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards. Fokionos 2, T: 210.323.9406 Kalua Dance the night away in a chic environment. Amerikis 6, T: 210.360.8304

Sushimou Owner Chef Antonis Drakoularakos, rated among the world’s 100 top chefs, lets his food Low Profile Whisky Bar

Kolokotroni 9 A cozy jazz bar with specialty cocktails. Kolokotroni 9, T: 210.323.2795 Kiki’s de Grece Cosy wine bar with French flair. Ipitou 4, T: 210.321.1279 Madras House of Tea Nirvana for tea lovers with brews from all over the world. Voulis 7, T: 210.324.2777 Moriarty Cool vibes, music and cocktails in the heart of downtown Athens. Christou Lada 1, T: 213.040.6763 Oinoscent Trendy winebar. Voulis 45-47, T: 210.322.9374 The Clumsies Find out why it is rated amongst the best bars in Europe. Praxitelous 30, T: 210.323.2682 The Gin Joint Popular drinks, classic cocktails and the fanciest G&T in Athens! Christou Lada 1, T: 210.321.8646 The Seven Jokers Lively and central wine bar with classic fittings and stylish wine and cocktail menu. Voulis 7, T: 210.321.9225 The Trap Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes and dangerously delicious cocktails on tap. Othonos 10, T: 210.321.5561

DRINK | Cafes Kaya For a caffeine fix like no other. Voulis 7, T: 213.028.4305

SYNGROU EAT | Restaurants Ai Nikolas Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior. Syngrou Av. 156, T: 210.923.2918

Meerkat Safari-inspired all-day café and tropical cocktail bar in Koukaki. Vizantiou 7, T: 213.045.3390 Première Gourmet cuisine with splendid views. Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Av. 8993, T: 210.920.6000

THISSIO EAT | Restaurants Indian Masala Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment. Ermou 129, T: 210.321.9412

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Cava Faidon Mid-range or special edition wine varieties with a giddy range of imported goodies. Agiou Ioannou 28, T: 215.510.9975

Rafale Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely. Apollonos 28, T: 210.967.1184 Sardelaki Affordable seafood on the waterfront. Poseidonos Av. 18, T: 210.967.0913 Tylixto Greek Wrap An ode to the Greek street food tradition that you “wrap in your hand”. Ag. Panteleimonos 15, T: 210.896.0030

Cava Vegera A new wine bar changing the game for the stagnant costal enclave. DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Poseidonos 11, T: 210.964.6635 Lounges

En Plo Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay. Poseidonos 4, T: 210.967.1770

Kuzina Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment. Adrianou 9, T: 210.324.0133

Island Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location. 27th klm Athinon-Souniou T: 210.965.3563-4

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges The Sowl Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space. Iraklidon 10, T: 210.345.0003 Underdog Specialty coffees, impressive selection of foreign and Greek craft beers, and exceptional cocktail menu. Iraklidon 8, T: 213.036.5393

The James Joyce

Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare. Astiggos 12, T: 210.323.5055

VOULA

VOULIAGMENI EAT | Bakeries & Patisseries Philip by Artopolis Popular local bakery that’s grown into a café and dine-in destination with cocktails and music until late. Ermou 1, T: 210.967.0321

EAT | Ice Cream Bufala Gelato Thessaloniki franchise using buffalo milk in customised icecream products. Orfeos 2, T: 210.896.1800 Waffle House Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Poseidonos Av. 17, T: 210.896.1227

EAT | Restaurants

GAY & LESBIAN EAT | Restaurants Myrovolos Affordable prices nice plates and greek music. Giatrakou 12, Metaxourgeio, T: 210.522.8806

DRINK | Bars, Clubs & Lounges Del Sol Café A very gay-popular café bar in the Gazi district. Voutadon 44, Gazi, T: 210.341.8169 Noiz Popular lesbian haunt. Konstantinoupoleos Av. 78, Gazi, T: 210.346.7850

EAT | Restaurants

Ithaki Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood. Apollonos 28, T: 210.896.3747

Akrovoli Oyster bar with a thoughtfully curated menu of fresh fish. Poseidonos 14, T: 210.899.0152

Lutetia Bistro Affordable gourmet cuisine. Somewhere Hotel, Dios 2, T: 210.967.0000

Ballaro Italian Restaurant Charming deli-trattoria with flavours from Palermo. Poseidonos 12, T: 210.899.4464

Malabar Sublime tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience. The Margi Hotel, Litous 11, T: 210.892.9160

Shamone Club Popular weekend nightclub with drag shows, live performances and regular themed parties. Konstantinoupoleos Av. 46, Gazi, T: 210.345.0144

Matsuhisa Athens Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair. Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, T: 210.896.0510

Sodade 2 Athens’ famous gay nightclub for over 15 years. Triptolemou 10, Gazi, T: 210.346.8657

Coconuts The place to stock up on your quinoa chips and acai berries. Vassileos Pavlou 67, T: 210.895.5177,

Café Zoe Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays. Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Av. 89-93, T: 210.920.6655

Drakoulis Meat Open Project A nightclub, gourmet emporium, and Athens’ most glamorous meat boutique all in one. Vassileos Pavlou 103, T: 210.932.0211

Kollias Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere. Syngrou Av. 303, T: 210.940.8620

Naiades Popular family grill joint. Vassileos Pavlou 74, T: 210.965.7706

T: 210.967.1588

Nelly’s Gastro Pub An unpretentious hang-out with Kirki reasonably-priced drinks, themed Ideal for a lunch break. Apostoplou sports nights, and knock-out Pavlou 31, T: 210.346.6960 burgers. Plastira 3, T: 210.899.4965

Avenue French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux. Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Av. 385, T: 210.947.100

Hytra Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views. Onassis Cultural Center, Syngrou Av. 107-109, T: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767

heart of Voula Square. Vassileos Pavlou 72-76, T: 211.411.2444

Dulcis In Fundo Top-quality authentic Italian. Prinkipos Petrou 33, T: 210.894.2136 Koi Affordable street-food style sushi. Vassileos Pavlou 98, T: 213.032.0890 Loutsos Upscale fish gastronomy in the

Eat & Drink

Classic bar offering massive selection of whiskey with notes of jazz and rock ‘n’ roll. Voulis 7, T: 213 035 2114

Rooster All-day gay cafe bar located in the heart of Athens’ city centre. Ag. Irinis Sq., Athens, T: 210.322.4410

Moorings Elegant Vouliagmeni institution with marine theme and dreamy cocktail terrace. Marina Vouliagmeni, T: 210.967.0659 Mythos Of The Sea Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, T: 210.891.1100 Pizza Palma Inventive and classic fine-dough Italian pizzas and pastas in central Vouliagmeni. Ermou 1,

Shopping

DEPARTMENT STORES Athens Metro Mall Shops, cinemas and food Vouliagmenis Av. 276, T: 210.976.9444 Attica Home to an array of luxury goods Panepistimiou 9, Syntagma, T: 211.180.2600 Golden Hall 131 high-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion Kifissias 37A, Maroussi, T: 210.680.3450 McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Shopping Centre Building Block E71, Yalou 19004, Spata, T: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Petit Bateau Golden Hall, Kifissias Av. 37A, T: 210.681.3050 A. Papandreou 16A & Metaxa, Glyfada, T: 210.894.8813 The Mall Athens Shops, cinemas and food Andrea Papandreou 35, Maroussi, T: 210.630.0000

JEWELLERY Apriati Smartly designed jewellery for the young Pindarou 29, T: 210.360.7878 Elena Votsi Conversation pieces in gold and stone Xanthou 7, T: 210.360.0936 Fanourakis Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings Patriarchou Ioakeim 23, Kolonaki,T: 210.721.1762 Folli Follie Greece’s high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25, Kolonaki, T: 210.323.0739

Omega Elegant boutique showcasing the brand’s timeless timepieces Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki, T: 210.322.7682

Pentheroudakis Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki, T: 210.361.3187

Van Cleef & Arpels The jeweller of the international jetset Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki, T: 210.331.0319

Zolotas Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso Panepistimiou 10, Syntagma, T: 210.360.1272

Bulgari Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki, T: 210.324.7118 Cartier Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier Maison Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki, T: 210.331.3600 Chopard Legendary time pieces and jewellery Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou, T: 210.325.0555 Ilias Lalaounis Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller Panepistimiou 6, T: 210.361.1371

VINTAGE Amerikaniki Agora Athinas 30, Monastiraki, 1st-2nd Floor, T: 210 3217876 Bohbo Ippokratous 40 & Didotou, Exarhia, T: 210.338.9202 Gouadeloupi Protogenous 12, Psyrri, T: 697.852.3933 Like Yesterday’s Vintage clothes mainly from the United States Protogenous 16, Monastiraki, T: 216.700.4810

Berlin Ipitou 5, Syntagma Retrosexual Vintage Shop Great collection of merchandise ranging from the ‘20s to the ‘90s Aghias Eirinis 3, Monastiraki, T: 210.545.1553 Sofita Iraklidon 35, Thissio, T: 210.346.9904 Yesterday’s Bread | Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed Kallidromiou 87-89, T: 210.881.1233

DELI Arapian Old-style butcher shop offering cured meats Evripidou 41, Monastiraki, T: 210.321.7238 Bahar Well-known herb haven Evripidou 31,Monastiraki, T: 210.321.7225 Cava Anthidis Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers Patriarchou Ioakeim 45, Kolonaki, T: 210.725.1050

Kessaris Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Panepistimiou 7, T: 210.323.2919

Mofu Vintage and contemporary style home décor and furniture Sarri 28, Psyrri, T: 210.331.1922

Marathianakis Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), T: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424

Paliosinithies Vintage home décor and furnitureProtogenous 8, Psyrri, T: 210.656.0574

Cellier Stockists of premium wines and spirits Kriezotou 1d, Syntagma T: 210.361.0040 Kifissias Av. 369, T: 210.801.8756 Syngrou Av. 320, T: 210.453.3551

Preloved Second-hand clothing collected from the cities of Paris and

Kostarelos Great selection of cheese and Greek goodies

WHSmith Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos,T: 210.353.1080

SOUVENIRS Patriarchou Ioakeim 30-32, T: 210.725.9000

Kylix Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards Karneadou 20, T: 210.724.5143 Marks & Spencer Food Ermou 33-35, Athens, T: 210.324.0675 Vouliagmenis Av. 85, Glyfada, T: 211.012.4968 Lazaraki 13, Glyfada, T: 210.894.3147 Pentelis Av. 23, Vrilissia, T: 211.012.5381 Miran Sausages, pastrami & cured meats Evripidou 45, T: 210.321.7187 Provence Gourmet French delicatessen Posidonos 80, T: 210.898.1435

Kassaveti 5, Kifissia, T: 210.801.2472 Wine Garage Browser-friendly cava with helpful serviceXenokratous 25, T: 210.721.3175

BOOKSTORES

Anamnesia Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, T: 210 3533104 Matogianni Myconos, T: 2289 079171 W: anamnesia.gr Acropolis Museum Shop 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Str., T: 210.900.0911

Varsos Milk products & patisserie

SPAS Ananea Spa Life Gallery Hotel, 103 Thisseos Ave., Ekali, T: 211.106.7400

Lea Books Sina 60, Kolonaki T: 211.012.0547 Le Livre Ouvert Solonos 77, Kolonaki, T: 210.362.9703

Greece is for Lovers Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki, T: 210.924.5064 W: greeceisforlovers.com

Stefanidis Finest Foods Excellent European delicatessen Dimitrios Sq 13, T: 210.808.2191

Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki, T: 210.722.8321-3

Ιanos Stadiou 24, Athens, T: 210.321.7917, 231.022.1113

Forget me not Adriannou 100, Plaka, T: 210.325.3740 W: forgetmenotathens.gr

Sorpresa Italiana Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more Kiriazi 6-8, T: 210.801.7886

Kori Traditional & contemporary jewellery Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki, T: 210.323.3534

Compendium Alikarnassou 8, Athens T: 210.383.2139, 210.322.1248

Benaki Museum Shop Koumbari & Vas. Sofias, Kolonaki, T: 210.367.1045 W: benakishop.gr

Salamat Korinthias 24, Athens, T: 210.779.6766

unexpected ideas that re-define the souvenir Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, T: 213.036.9266 W: ohsosouvenir.com

Shopping

The Mall and Golden Hall, Maroussi, T: 210.630.0410 Skoufa 3, Kolonaki, T: 210.338.7150

Lexikopoleio Stasinou 13, T: 210.723.1201

It’s all, oh so souvenir to me! More than 50 Greek designers’ unique, new imaginative and

GB Spa at Hotel Grande Bretagne Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma Sq, T: 210.333.0799 Hiltonia Spa Vas.Sofias 46, T: 210.728.1000 I-Spa InterContinental Athenaeum Athens, Syngrou Av. 89-93, T: 210.920.6000 Olive Tree Spa Hatzigianni Mexi 4, Hilton, T: 210 724.4425 Orloff Spa Astir Beach Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, T: 210.896.0028

Ouranio Toxo Perikleous 41, Ag.Paraskevi, T: 211.184.6771 Polyglot Akadimias 84, T: 210.330.0455 Public Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, T: 210.818.1333 S. Karagiorga 4 & Lazaraki, Glyfada T: 210.898.4300 87

Partner Hotels

ATHENS & ATTICA

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS 543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos, T: 210.920.6000

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL 66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine. Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos, T: 210.921.5353

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, T: 210.337.0000

ATHENS HILTON 506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia, T: 210.728.1000

COCO-MAT HOTEL COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. Patriarchou Ioakeim 36 str, Kolonaki, T: 210.723.0000 88

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCO-MAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden. Pellis 6, Kifissia, T: 210.801.8027

CIVITEL ATTIK A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace. Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi, Τ: 210.610.1000

CIVITEL OLYMPIC Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv. Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi, T: 210.680.1900

CROWNE PLAZA Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50, Athens,T: 210.727.8000

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri, Vouliagmeni.T: 210.891.1100

DIVANI CARAVEL Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani, T: 210.720.7000

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis. T: 210.928.0100

GRANDE BRETAGNE This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. T: 210.333.0000

HOLIDAY INN ATTICA AVENUE New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-ofthe art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Rd, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. T: 210.668.9000

HOLIDAY SUITES Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4, Ilissia, T: 210.727.8000

KEFALARI SUITES Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels. Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia, T: 210.623.3333

KING GEORGE Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views. Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq., T: 210.322.2210

LIFE GALLERY Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre. Thiseos Av. 103, Ekali. T: 211.106.7400

MELIÁ ATHENS Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments. Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Athens, T: 210.332.0100

NEW Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma, T: 210.3273000

NJV athens plaza Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. Vas.Georgiou A’ 2, Syntagma Sq. T: 210 3352400

NOVOTEL Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden. 4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Sq., T: 210.820.0700

RADISSON BLU Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis. Alexandras Av. 10, Athens, T: 210.889.4500

SEMIRAMIS YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultratrendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia, T: 210.628.4400

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. T: 210.354.4000

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Roof top swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Sq., Kolonaki, T: 210.741.6000

AVA HOTEL & SUITES Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma. Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka, T: 210.325.9000

THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia, T: 210.623.3622

THE MARGI Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. T: 210.892.9000

ATHENS WAS Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, Athens Was’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience. Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Athens, T:210.725.4871

TWENTYONE A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia T: 210.623.3521

Partner Hotels

A CATEGORY

HOTEL ELECTRA Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq., T: 210.337.8000

PERISCOPE HOTEL 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.7200

AMARILIA HOTEL An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool. Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni, T: 210.899.0391

PHILIPPOS Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are well-appointed and comfortable. Good value for money. Mitseon 3, Acropolis, T: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO

FRESH HOTEL Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia, T: 210.524.8511

THE WESTIN COSTA NAVARINO Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic. Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, T: 272.309.5000

KAVALA

HERODION A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni, T: 210.923.6832

IMARET HOTEL A masterfully-restored 19th century palace with 21st century luxuries set amid 3,000 square metres of tranquil gardens, with city and sea views. Highlights: lavish afternoon teas and an original hammam offering exotic bathing rituals and massages. Pavlidou 30, Kavala, T: 25106.20151 89

SITES Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites.T: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Byzantine Churches many churches ating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. T: 210.346.1589 Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that markedthe boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas & Amalias Av. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium ‘’Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24 Str. T: 210.321.0185 Syntagma(Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the 90

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas & Amalias Av., T: 210.922.6330.Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. T: 210.324.5220

MUSEUMS Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. T: 210.321.0185 Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens, T: 210.923.1502, W: spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, T: 210.368.9502, W: history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Av., Athens, T: 210.367.1000, W: benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos T: 210.325.1311, W: benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi, T: 210.345.3111, W: benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, T: 210.721.1027 Hellenic Cosmos | Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. T: 212.254.0000 W: hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, T: 210.323.4678 W: frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens, T: 210.722.8321, W:cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, T: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, ThissioT: 211.012.6486, W: herakleidonart.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. T: 210.922.7260, W: lalaounis.comJewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. T: 210.322.5582 W: jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, T: 210.346.3552 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens,

T: 210.821.7724 National Gallery & Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens T: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens, T: 210.363.5953, W: nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Str., Acropolis, T: 210.924.1043, W: theacropolismuseum.gr

GALLERIES A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri, T: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 Vas. Konstantinou 42, Athens, T: 210.725.9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki, T: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens,T: 210.721.3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, T: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgeio, T:210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Kolonaki , T: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis, T: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi Str., Athens, T: 210.924.2111- 3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, T: 210.364.0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, T: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, T: 210.721.7679 Kapopoulos Fine Arts Varis - Koropiou Av. 94, Koropi Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, T: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, T: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia , T: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, T: 210.364.0288 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, T: 210.322.1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, T: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, T: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki T: 210.360.8278

Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, T: 210.363.4454

CULTURAL VENUES Athinais Cultural Centre | Formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos, T: 210.348.0000 B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens, T: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 ArmatolonKlephton st. Athens, T: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis | (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali, T: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, T: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, T: 213.017.8000 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Vasilissis Sofias Ave. 86A The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, T: 210.323.8757

THEATRES Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, T: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens, T: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, T: 210.321.3100

JUST FOR KIDS Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, T: 210.425.6999, W: allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, T: 210.331.2995 Goulandris Museum of Natural HistoryLevidou 13, Kifissia, T: 210.801.5870, W: gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis Puppet Show Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, T: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, T: 210.331.2621 W: childrensartmuseum.gr Summit | The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, T: 210.603.0093, W: summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, T: 210.890.2000 W: westinathens.com/en/westin_ kids_club/

See & do

Partner Hotels

ORGANISED TOURS ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES T: 210.322.9705

Useful Info

BUSINESS SERVICES AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. T: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399

Commercial Office spaces Regus T: 210.727.9000

Global Business Services T: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri, T: 210.819.0000 DHL T: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens, T: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Kifissou 14, Renti, T: 210.485.1100 Speedex Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia T: 801.110.0011

Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Av. 102, Nea Ionia T: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea, T: 210.800.3510 Orphee Beinoglou 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth, Elefsina T: 210.946.6100 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, T: 210.459.9530

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, T: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani, T: 210.724.5541

TRAVEL AGENCIES Travel Plan Christou Lada 3, Athens, T: 210.333.300 W: travelplan.gr Amphitrion Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni, T: 210.900.6000 W: amphitrionholidays.gr

UPS 4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi, T: 210.998.4000

TravelPlanet24 Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma, T: 211 107 9684 W: travelplanet24.com

DRIVING SCHOOLS IN ENGLISH

Mid-east Travel V. Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi, T: 211.211.8888 W: mideast.gr

Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki T: 2310.729.092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas & Ag. Triados 30, P. Faliro, T: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 20, Peristeri, Xenofodos 17, Peristeri, Afroditis 39, Ilion, T: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190

RELOCATION AGENCIES Allied Pickfords Mourouzi 7, Athens, T: 210.610.4494 Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada, T: 210.965.0697 Attica Movers Syngrou Av. 19, Neos Kosmos, T: 210 922 7221

CULTURAL INSTITUTES French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens, T: 210.339.8600 Hellenic-American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, T: 210.368.0900 British Council Kolonaki Square 17, 10673 Athens, T: 210.369.2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 10557 Athens, T: 210.363.4117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 10033 Athens, T: 210.366.1000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Av. 107-109, 11745 Athens, T: 213.017.8000

Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47, Athens, T: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

EMBASSIES ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, T: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens T: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59, Athens, T: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, T: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, T: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4, Athens, T: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10, Athens, T: 210.363.2721 BANGLADESH Marathonodromon 119, P Psychiko, T: 210.672.0250

FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, T: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, T: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, T: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, T: 210.674.1436 IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, T: 210.677.8276 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, T: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychico, T: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, T: 210.361.7260

BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, T: 210.360.0314

JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri. T: 210.670.9900

BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3, Athens, T: 210.641.0788

JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico, T: 210.674.4161

BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens, T: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. T: 210.674.8105 CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri, T: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 12, Athens, T: 210.729.2647 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, T: 210.672.3282 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, T: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, T: 210.685.5550

KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou, T: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens, T: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico, T: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens, T: 210.729.4483

CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, T: 210.373.4800

LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & N. Vamva 2, Syntagma T: 210.725.6400

CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychico. T: 210.671.9701

MALTA V. Sofias 96, Athens, T: 210.778.5138

DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens, T: 210.725.6440

MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.4780

EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, T: 210.361.8612

MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei, T: 210.699.0660

ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi, T: 210.747.5660

MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychico. T: 210.674.4210

FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, T: 210.725.5860

NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7, Mets, T: 210.725.4900

FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, T: 210.339.1000

NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei T: 210.802.1188

UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2, T: .210.677.0220

PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, T: 210.729.0122

UK Ploutarchou 1, Athens, T: 210.727.2600

PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychico, T.: 210.672.6061-3

USA Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, T: 210.721.2951

PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, T: 210.428.6441

URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia, T: 210.361.3549

PERU Semitelou 2, Athens, T: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico, T: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. T: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, T: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychico. T: 210.672.8875

VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychico. T: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico, T: 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080

EMERGENCIES EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance T: 166

RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychico. T: 210.672.5235

Doctors SOS T: 1016. Ipirou 1, Athens They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis, Halandri, T: 210.671.6911

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434 - also check newspapers for listings.

SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, T: 210.777.4344

Emergency Hospitals T: 1434

SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. T: 210.684.5072

Forest Fire T: 191

SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. T: 210.677.1980

Fire Brigade T: 199

Poison Hotline T: 210.779.3777 Police T: 100

SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokratias 1, N. Psychico, T: 210.672.0090-091

Tourist Police T: 171

SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi. T: 210.610.6645

Air Police T: 210.964.2000

SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, T: 210.921.3123

ROAD ASSISTANCE

SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, T: 210.726.6100

ELPA T: 10400

SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, T: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, T: 210.677.5122 THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychico, T: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychico, T: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens, T: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, T: 210.680.0230

Coast Guard T:108

Emergency Service T: 104 Express Service T: 154 Hellas Service T: 1057 Interamerican T: 1158

HEALTH Paediatric Hospitals EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, T: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. T: 210.746.7000

PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. T: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals ADVANCED MEDICAL SERVICES, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri, T: 210.677.3573 W: symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency Number 1169 T: 210.367.4000 W: centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC | Diagnostic, surgical & treatment centre Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), T: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA | Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, T: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, T: 210.619.5760-1 El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, T: 210.956.5365

PHYSICIANS

Useful Info

NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, T: 210.724.6173

(ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos | MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery H. Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, T: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon Tsoha 17, Athens, T: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon Kifissias 227, Kifissia, T: 210.612.5001-2 Heart & Vascular Centre E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI | Interventional Cardiologist Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Southern Athens, T: 210.897.6276, W: heartline.gr Lia D. Papathanakou Dermatologist – Venerologist Adult / Pediatric Dermatology P. Ioakeim 44, Kolonaki, T: 210.729.4502, 6974355942

YGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, T: 210.686.7000, W: ygeia.gr

Newspapers & Magazines

IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER)

Athens Insider the bi-monthly magazine for Greece in English

Areos 36, P. Faliro, T: 210.989.2100-20 Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. T: 210.619.8100

The International New York Times carries the English version of Kathimerini

METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. T: 210.480.9000 W: metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi, T: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi, T: 210.686.9000

Public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. T: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, T: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL | Specialized trauma unit Nikis 2, Kifissia,T: 210.628.0000 TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, T: 210.451.9411-9

ENGLISH MEDIA

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, T: 210.341.1610

SCHOOLS GREEK LANGUAGE The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Str., Mets, T: 210.701.5242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Str., Athens, T: 210.330.1455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, T: 210.808.5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., Athens, T: 210.368.0900 Omilo Greek Language & Culture P. Tsaldari 13 ,Maroussi, T: 210.612.2706 93

Useful Info

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS St Catherine’s British Embassy School S. Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi, T: 210.282.9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi, T: 210.891.7000 American Community Schools of Athens Ay. Paraskevis Av. 129, Halandri, T: 210.639.3200 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas, T: 210.604.7722 Campion School Ay. Ioulianis, Pallini, T: 210.607.1700 German School in Athens Dimokritou 6 & Germanikis Scholis, Maroussi, T: 210.619.9260-5 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrilissia, T: 210.682.0566 International School of Athens Xenias & Artemidos, Kifissia, T: 210.623.3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi, T: 211.300.9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Mitsaki 18, A. Patissia, T: 210.228.2720

Italian kindergartens

Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko, T: 210.961.8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari, T: 210.965.3985 Learning Steps Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, T: 210.620.5818 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia T: 210.801.2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni, T: 210.967.1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula, T: 210.895.9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari, T: 210.965.6800

French kindergartens Au Petit Bonheur Iraklitou 50, Glyfada, T: 210.965.8207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia, T: 210.801.1570 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, T: 210.677.3803

St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi, T: 210.891.7000

Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, T: 210.801.1428

UNIVERSITIES

German kindergartens

University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, T: 210.323.6647

O Mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, T: 210.603.2527

American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, N. Psichiko, T: 210.725.9301

Nordic Library 7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni, T: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211

MONEY LIBRARIES American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Athens, T: 210.723.6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico, T: 210.679.8100

British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki, T: 210.363.3211/5 French Institute Library

Paramythia Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, T: 210.600.3196

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Av. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni, T: 210.896.4531

Il Mulino Magico Troados 23, Ag. Paraskevi, T: 210.600.3148

Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens, T: 210.367.1027

St Catherine’s British Embassy School S. Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi, T: 210.282.9750

DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, T: 210.600.9800

Scuola Maternal Italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, A. Patissia, T: 210.202.0274

National Library Tzavella 25, Syntagma, T: 210.382.0657

31 Sina St, Athens, T: 210.362.4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens, T: 210.362.0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Athens, T: 210.360.8111 Hellenic American Union Greek Library Masalias 22 (7th floor), Athens, T: 210.362.9886 Italian Archeological Institute Library Parthenonos 14-16, Acropolis, T: 210921.4024 Italian Institute Library Patision 47, Omonia

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS AMERICAN EXPRESS T: 210.324.4975 DINERS CLUB T: 210.929.0200 MASTERCARD T: 00.800.1188.703.03 VISA T: 00.800.1163.803.04

POST Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am1:30pm.

PHONE Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public payphone buy a phone card at the kiosks. Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

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Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia, T: 210.808.8008

INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTENS English kindergartens The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri, T: 210.682.7629 94

Send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Spata, T: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000 W: aia.gr 24 HOUR VIP Transport Service WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. T: 210.353.0100 W: skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section public transport.

AIRLINES Aegean T: 801.11.20000 Air France-KLM T: 210.998.0222 Air Malta T: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia T: 210.998.8888 American T: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter & plane charters) T: 210.938.4149 British Airways T: 210.353.0453 Continental T: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways T: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet T: 211.198.0013 El Al T: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates T: 210.933.3400 Etihad T: 210.324.1010 Iberia W: iberia.com/gr Lufthansa T: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways T: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways T: 210.950.8700 Singapore T: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair T: 210.617.5320 Tunisair T: 210.969.6496 Turkish T: 210.988.5700

CAR RENTAL Ada Rent-a-Car T: 210.322.0087 Arena T: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union T: 210.602.0162 Avis T: 210.322.4951 Budget T: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar T: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz T: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals T: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car T: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

LIMOUSINES AAA Royal Prestige T: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service T: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services T: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kacaya T: 210.323.4120

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center. X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals. X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station. Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €6 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min). For further information dial 185 or visit oasa.gr, ametro.gr. For info on trains visit proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANISATION

Karolou 1. T: 210.529.7002 W: ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5ammidnight, Line 2 (Anthoupoli-Elliniko) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am23.30pm. The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. W: ametro.gr

TRAM Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday

to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. W: tramsa.gr

TAXIS Taxis from the airport have a flat rate of €35 to Central Athens. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies. Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police on 171.

Getting Around

AIRPORT

Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands: Gates B, G & D Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate Gtt

INTERCITY BUSES

Superfast Ferries

Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100, T: 210.512.4910-1 W: ktel.org

Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari

Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Av. & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens T: 210.891.9000 W: superfast. com

For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

Reservations: Athens T: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki T: 2310.560.700

RADIO TAXI Enotita T: 210.645.9000 Ermis T: 210.411.5200 Ikarus T: 210.515.2800 Kifissia T: 210.801.4000 Piraeus T: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada T: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

SEAPORTS Lavrio T: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus T: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina T: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

FERRIES Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on T: 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos,

Hellenic Seaways T: 210.419.9000 W: hellenicseaways.gr Anek Lines Domestic lines T: 210 41 97 420 International lines T: 210 41 97 430 W: anek.gr Minoan Lines T: 801.117.5000 W: minoan.gr

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus T: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma T: 210.323.3696 Northstar Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro T: 210.988.4000 PGA Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro T: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula T: 210.895.2212 Seascape Poseidonos Av. 29, Alimos, T/F: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus T:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki T: 210.985.0122-8

K A L E I D O S C O P E

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