Summer in the City by Insider Publications

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Summer 2019 Year 19 #142 ISSN 1790-3114 €4.50

SUMMER IN THE CITY

Arts & Events • People • Culture • Travel • Style • Food & Drink

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Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Copy Editor Elena Panayides Fashion Editor Eleftheria Domenikou Graphic Design Roula Koronaiou Cover illustration Daniel Egnéus Hospitality Media Services Lefteris Varelis Client Relations and Sales Eleni Kalogridou Varvara Giannikouli Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Interns Maya Abuali, Rebecca Sideras, Maya Iliades Photos Christos Drazos, Alina Lefa, Giannis Seferos, Ioanna Koulakou, Maria-Irene Moschona, Kosmas Koumianos, Ken Seet, Vassilis Stenos, Shutterstock Contributors in this Issue Elena Panayides, Amanda Dardanis, Karine Ancellin, Alexia Kefalas, Christiana Darmi, Anna Roins, Eleni Kefalopoulou, Steven Olson Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Printing Grafima Website and Digital Marketing Webolution Subscriptions Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 15, Abroad € 30 Both magazines in Greece € 40, Abroad € 90 (incl. VAT and postage) Also published in Chinese (Mandarin), Russian and Turkish. To subscribe, email: info@insider-magazine.gr www.athensinsider.com www.bonjourathenes.fr Athens Insider is published quarterly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by: Insider Publications Ltd. located at Ermou 13, 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece Tel.: 210.729.8634 VAT: 099747145 E-mail: info@insider-magazine.gr Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers. Athens Insider ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 216548 www.athensinsider.com

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erhaps because he has such a brilliant way with words or perhaps because our shared Indian heritage and years of being homeless nomads fosters a quiet understanding of each other’s worldviews, Pico Iyer’s essay in The New York Times ever so succinctly sums up all that Greece means to me. So, this editorial is really a paean to him, Greece and the ‘slow, human-scaled, somewhat ramshackle nature of arrangements here that gives this country much of its human charm.’ Iyer observes ‘The Grecian formula that keeps the place forever young, and old, and itself, has less to do with the monuments of kings and gods than simply with the rhythms of the day.’ It is a reflection Pulitzer-Prize finalist A.E. Stallings (p. 48) concurs with. She describes the distinct threads and themes in her poetry as being a byproduct of living and working in Greece, ‘where the immediacy of contemporary Athens collides with ongoing meditations on motherhood, mythology, politics, and poetry.’ Despite Athens’ ‘sunlit dishevelment’ and earlier-than-anticipated elections in July, there is palpable optimism. Athens has been feted in the international media and arts circles as a cultural destination, largely thanks to the remarkable work of two Foundations, the Onassis Cultural Centre and the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Foundation (p.32), mercifully without references to being ‘newer’ versions of other European cities anymore. New infrastructure and upscale hospitality brands investing in Greece, has given the Athenian Riviera an upbeat patina with edgy boutiques, a slew of fashionable good-time cocktail bars and chic boutiques (p.102 and p.116). But despite its billion-dollar projects that promise change, ‘the real antiquity in Greece, Iyer observes, and this is its enduring blessing, for a visitor, is its daily life that can make you feel as if you’re walking among the ancient philosophers and tragedians who gave us our sense of hubris and catharsis. All in a landscape where the deep blue sea surrounds you on every side, and the indigo and scarlet and orange flowerpots are bright with geraniums and begonias. It’s not just that you feel the presence of the past everywhere in Greece; it’s that, amid this elemental landscape of rock and cobalt sky and whitewashed church, you step out of the calendar altogether and into the realm of allegory.’ In this sun-drenched issue, we let you embark on your own enduring affair with this ancient and contemporary city we’re proud to call our own. • Kalo Kalokairi!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

contents

CULTURE 04

Do we have an identity crisis in Europe? A few eminent Athenians gather at Hotel King George to discuss Europe's existential crisis. Arts & Events Cultural highlights to look forward to this summer.

capital, Alexia Kefalas notes. 38

PEOPLE 44

Why you shouldn’t miss Yo Yo Ma’s Concert An epic, unmissable bucket-list event. A duel in the sun The legendary rivalry between Onassis and Niarchos spawns two cultural foundations keen to revolutionize Athens as a cultural

Athens Festival round-up An anthology of this summer’s mustwatch events at this year’s Athens Festival.

Diplomacy of Inclusion Ambassador Mark Allen on Canada’s long-term investments in Greece and on the need to challenge gender stereotypes.

An ode to Greece Pulitzer-prize finalist Alicia E. Stallings on Greece, poetry, motherhood, social media’s star system and Homer!

Pop goes the world Argentine artist Marcelo Zabellos offers an exuberant, colour-drenched commentary.

Sounion calling Elena Panayides unveils the myth and magic of Sounion.

Kalamata Dance Festival Kalamata celebrates 25 years of being the Dance Destination of choice for acclaimed choreographers.

Art on the islands Culture migrates to the Greek isles this summer.

130 Which Mykonos beach club are you? No one does the beach day scene quite like Mykonos, Amanda Dardanis matches the club that best fits your personality.

TRAVEL

It is always a matter of light 29 of Sir Antony Gormley’s sculptures repopulate Delos.

Cover illustration by Daniel Egnéus athens insider |2|

160

The Ornate Finesse of Dassios’ singular pieces Dimitris Dassios’ itinerant sartorial style brings alive the sensual vibrance of an Oriental souk with the meticulous tailoring of an Italian couture house. Summer Loading Fashion editorial on the coolest summer trends.

128 Let the Lake work its magic Surprise yourself with a visit to Lake Vouliagmeni and treat yourself to luxury pampering.

FOOD & DRINK 96

CITY LIFE 90

My Greek Summer! Four creative Athenians on their fave season and their sunny secrets. FOMO no more What to do once you've dispensed with basic touristic formalities.

102 Glyfada, the restless coastal capital Athens Insider taps into the true evolutionary spirit of this cosmopolitan queen of the coast. 116 Where to dine in Vouliagmeni From gourmet dining to quick seaside bites, a round-up of Vouliagmeni’s most appealing eats.

Nobusan’s Raw Appeal Charming, self-effacing and exuberant, Nobu-san, will be back in Athens for the annual Nobu Food Festival. Varoulko Seaside, quayside vibes and sublime meals Chef Lefteris Lazarou’s transformative cuisine in a post-card perfect setting.

100 Cold Coffee Wars: So long Frappé, hello Freddo! If you’ve been to Greece before and still nurse your frappe fantasies, its time you switched lto freddo ike the rest of Greece. 136 Ice-Dreams Move over Rome, Athens is going gelato crazy and with the temperatures soaring, the lines are forming outside the city’s top ice-cream bars. 140 Summer in a bottle Eleni Kefalopoulou raises a glass to

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142 Greece’ indigenous wines. 142 Sun-kissed recipes Sinfully simple, garden-fresh snack recipes to spruce up your summer kitchen. 144 Summer Reads Inspiring memoirs to uplift your summer spirits. 160 Kaleidoscope The Athens Photo Festival celebrates the pursuit of the perfect image.

70 www.athensinsider.com

STYLE

116

THINK TANK

Do we have an identity crisis in Europe?

Images: Ioanna Koulakou

The European elections late May tested that existential question to the core, as well as the very relevance of the idea of Europe. With immigration being the overarching theme dominating European politics, a few eminent Athenians seek answers to some pressing questions at Hotel King George's Tudor Hall restaurant.

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THINK TANK

Stunning Acropolis views and stimulating conversations at the annual Think Tank at Hotel King George’s Tudor Hall restaurant

The event: A dinner discussion on ‘European Identity’ organized by Athens Insider and the hotels Grande Bretagne and King George. Where and When: At the Tudor Hall Restaurant of the King George hotel. On May 9. The Participants: Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan of Ireland, George Manginis, Academic Director, Benaki Museum, Harris Vlavianos, poet, translator and Head of Public Affairs, American College of Greece, Yiannis Zervos, Director, Athens Centre, Sophia Hiniadou-Cambanis, Head of Cultural Affairs, Hellenic Presidency. Maria Panayiotopoulou, Communications Director, Greek Festival, Alexia Kefalas, Correspondent for Le Figaro, Alberto Cano, representative of The New York Times. Here is an extract from the stimulating exchange of ideas that followed. Hosted by Tim Ananiadis, General Manager & Managing Director-Hotel Grande Bretagne/Hotel King George and moderated by Sudha Nair-Iliades. Sudha Nair-Iliades: We’ve been holding these informal dinner discussions for the past seven years with Tim. The topics tend to be more political, which deviates a bit from the nature of our magazine, which is quintessentially a city magazine with an accent on art, food and travel. It is election season again and with Brexit looming, we thought this was as good a time as any to really investigate what it means to be European.

What defines us as Europeans? Does the definition of European only apply when it is in relation to the ‘other’? A non-European? And does it not apply in relation to each other? Harris Vlavianos: In 2001, in Maastricht, there was this idea to invite twelve poets, each from every country joining Europe, to write a poem about Europe. The poet from Ireland was Seamus Heaney, the Nobel Laureate. And my poem, was entitled “Hotel Europa” after which the book was named. The point of my poem, and I think of the other poets too, was that it was a great occasion to celebrate Europe. It is very difficult now, in 2019 to think that all that enthusiasm, has evaporated. To answer your question, can you exist without the other, as a writer without other writers? Can you write poetry without, let’s say, having Shakespeare in your mind. It’s impossible. So, every time they ask me my reply is, I’m a writer who writes in Greek. But I am European! The poem I wrote for Maastricht was about the abduction of Europe by Zeus. If you think about it, the only way that Europe can survive between these huge powers like United States, Russia, and China, is to be united. I mean politically it doesn’t make sense otherwise. We have to emphasize the cultural connection of all the Europeans. It goes back centuries. Ambassador, do you agree that this anti-Brussels sentiment is a reflection of a need for a leaner Europe. Less trickled down power from Brussel bureaucrats telling us what to do? Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: There are unprecedented levels of support for EU membership in Ireland which has been an EU member state since 1973. The most recent poll on this issue, in May 2019, ahead of the European elections, indicated 93% of the population support EU membership, with the result for 18-24 year olds even higher at 96%.

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s Europe caught in an elite paralysis? Is this an opportunity to think anew, to sketch out what a different future might look like or will an outbreak of political imagination be viewed with suspicion? How do you create momentum for institutional reform and redefine the direction of the EU in the face of populism?

It’s sometimes easy to blame Europe for everything. But sometimes, the problems have to do with national policies, national politics.

A European Identity is not something that is legislated and will take time to develop. The important thing is to have started this mutually beneficial ‘journey of unity’

Harris Vlavianos, poet, translator and Head of Public Affairs, American College of Greece

Yiannis Zervos, Director, Athens Centre

The Irish people recognise the many benefits that EU membership has brought to our country, located, like Greece, on the periphery of Europe, and are very committed to making a strong contribution to the EU, its values and its future.

vest to show that they want to be counted. But, in some ways, I think it’s good because Europe needs ideas and opinions to build something new. It prompts us to remain united and to fight for the values we believe in. Maria Panagiotopoulou: My daughter who lives in Paris is Greek, but she goes to protests in her yellow jacket. And she’s pro-European! Harris Vlavianos: It’s sometimes easy to blame Europe for everything. But sometimes, the problems have to do with national policies, national politics. For example, the fact that the Greek state has been corrupt for years and that Greeks are the worst tax-payers in the world. It has nothing to do with Europe. It’s easy to blame them. Alexia Kefalas: Yes, because Europe is to blame to some extent. When the countries decided to sign the European treaty, they had to give part of their sovereignty to the European Union. So, part of the sovereignty of each country… of Greece, of France, of Ireland, belongs to Brussels. Harris Vlavianos: Yes, but you cannot have a United States of Europe without doing so.

With Brexit looming, how is Ireland coping? Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: While Brexit is not something that the Irish Government wants to see happen, we are planning for some time for all eventualities, including the possibility of no-deal. These preparations are across Government. The support and solidarity shown by all other EU Member States, including Greece, for the Withdrawal Agreement is deeply appreciated by our Government and people. Indeed, it is another factor in the current strong levels of pro-European sentiment. A priority is of course the protection of the Good Friday Agreement (GFA) signed in 1998 and a cornerstone for peace and stability in Northern Ireland. Why do you think there’s been a surge in right-wing politics? And do you think this initial enthusiasm of Europe that we had is a flawed idea? Alexia Kefalas: I think it is a teenage crisis. The middle-class across Europe want to show that they exist. The urban elite in big cities like Paris or London have opportunities, and account for a substantial part of their country’s GDP. They don’t need any politics. It is the middle class who live in the smaller towns and villages who want to be heard and seen. I really do think that it’s this middle class who voted against the European Union. In France, they have chosen the yellow

Ambassador, do you think it was that ‘loss of sovereignty’ that Alexia mentioned that shored up support for Brexit? Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: I believe that we need to be very careful how we define the narrative on Brexit - the EU may have its challenges, but at the end of day it is a vital and great project. Ireland shares these key European values and commitment to democracy and freedom including in the Western Balkans. At the end of the day, one Member State decided in 2016 to leave the EU and we respect that

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Each of us has a cultural identity that is a product of our history and our wars, our own life story.

Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan of Ireland

Alberto Cano, The New York Times

decision, however disappointing it was to us. We want to ensure that we have the best possible relationship at all levels with the UK in the future. We do believe that the best way forward, including protection of the GFA also, is to ratify the Withdrawal Agreement.

ing link, so we look for something else. From a historical point of view, we have to remember when the European Union idea emerged, of the union between France and Germany, it was the result of World War II. And it’s very important. We have not had a war in Europe since 1945. So in that sense it’s a great success. The Europeans, with the exception of Yugoslavia, haven’t had wars. But nationalism is always there. It’s dormant. And sometimes, it can be awakened. Samuel Johnson used to say that “nationalism is the refuge of every rascal”. Maria Panagiotopoulou: Yes, but it’s something really new. Harris Vlavianos: It’s new in the sense of the nation. In antiquity it was Athens, Sparta, Thebes and Corinth. There were regional rivalries. The idea of nationalism was born with The French Revolution when the idea of ‘La Patrie’ was launched. What the European experiment is trying to say, is that you can go beyond the nation into something else called ‘Europe’. Alberto Cano: Let’s say, if you are economically deprived, if you don’t speak languages and you don’t travel. And then you have a demagogue who comes at the right moment when he can awaken this fear in you, then, of course, you have populism. And the refugee crisis is, at the moment, a catalyst. Tim Ananaidis: I agree. The financial crisis of the EU was exacerbated by the immigration crisis. But if you look at the wider picture, this influx of immigrants within the EU, compared to what this project had to face in other decades, is not as huge a challenge. Europe is rich in traditions and has mature institutions that goes back centuries. So, these structures can very easily absorb the shock of immigration. It’s just that they haven’t been deployed to that effect. I think immigration

So what does it mean to be European? Sofia Cambanis: Plurality, democracy, freedom, human rights, social protection are the basis of our European society. But we have to keep in mind that human dignity is not just about rights, it’s also about fairness. You can be European, you can be Asian, you can be Greek… but you have to be human first. This is what we should be struggling for. It is the pillar of our European culture. Alberto Cano: Each of us has a cultural identity that is a product of our history and our wars, our own life story. Britain represents something in my cultural DNA as its part of my Spanish heritage and history, I grew up in Greece, I went to the Institut Français d’Athènes, my wife is German, and I identify with all these different cultures. So, we’re all European in some way. At some point our statesmen realised that we didn’t have to fight with each other or kill each other and that is how the idea of Europe as one entity was born, initially as a manufacturing and industrial union, then with more cultural projects and Erasmus, which has been a hugely successful experiment in letting young Europeans experience each other’s countries. Over the years though, I think Brussels lost the narrative. We need to go back to a more Middle Ages form of Europe. Harris Vlavianos: Yes, but then there was a connection with the Papacy. Today, because of secularism, the church cannot be the connect-

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©Ken Seet

We need to be very careful how we define the narrative on Brexit. The EU may have its challenges, but at the end of day it is a vital and great project.

I think it is a teenage crisis. The middleclass across Europe want to be heard and seen. It is this middle class who voted against the European Union.

Europe could draw inspiration from its incredible freedom of movement to form a positive narrative that embraces migration instead of treating it as a threat.

Alexia Kefalas, Correspondent for Le Figaro

Maria Panayiotopoulou, Communications Director, Greek Festival

is more a question of rhetoric. We could deal with it, if we wanted to. Yannis Zervos: To go back to the question of identity. A European Identity is not something that is legislated and will take time to develop. The important thing is to have started this ‘journey of unity’ that will benefit each individual country that is a member. The adage ‘stronger together’ holds true in our current geopolitical status. It enables us to wield greater influence both economically and politically than before as individual countries. The feeling of a European Identity will grow stronger with each successive generation.

tage and its rich diversity is the base of our Union. This is Europe’s strength today: The capacity to become a global actor without using hard power. Harris Vlavianos: Apart from humanism, there’s also a long common history that stems from Antiquity, from Greek and Roman times and the Renaissance. And I think we have to use that. I’ve always told my students to imagine the fate of Seferis, if he had written in English. The two major Irish poets, Joyce and Beckett actually chose Europe. It’s a great example of how two people who start in Dublin, find their life in Trieste or Paris. Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: You know what they say about the edginess that comes into Beckett’s writing, that’s because Ireland’s on the edge of Europe! There is of course great interest in Beckett and Joyce, but also our contemporary writers. I am proud that our team has led or partnered over 30 such events, across different sectors of the arts (including your National Theatre) in 2018 and I am delighted that a group of Greek companies is visiting Dublin this summer led by the Confederation of Greek Industry (SEV). The state visit of our President to Greece last year gave this work great impetus. We also have an active Greek-Irish Society here. Yannis Zervos: When you’re looking at a place like Europe, it depends what country you come from, what you can relate to. When I was a child, growing up here in Athens in the fifties, and we travelled, we would say “I’m going to go to Europe!” We were not in Europe! Maybe geographically, but the Greeks did not consider their country European. So, the greatest positive thing about the EU, is the freedom of movement! Also, you had freedom to work. What an incredible bonus! In fact, the European Union started this special programme initiated by Melina Mercouri called ‘Cultural Capitals in Europe’.

You mentioned catalysts, like the Erasmus movement. Do you think that the search for common links, like culture, is the key to getting the idea of shared history, of linkages? George Manginis: Europe, as we have it around us, is something that came out of many wars and a lot of bloodshed. And even if it has materialized as an economic union, even if it was perceived, perhaps too soon, as a political union, it has to be more than anything, a cultural union. People, historically, are used to living together – cosmopolitanism is not an unusual phenomenon in European history. Huge empires have existed before. The Roman Empire or the Hapsburgs lasted for centuries. So, there are formulas that can make this happen, political formulas, not just cultural. We then have to devise a cultural unity, something that bonds us together. It is an instinct which goes beyond religious and linguistic differences. A few years ago, a friend of mine wrote a book on the minority languages of Europe, which was a revelation: Europe is so diverse! Incredibly diverse! Sophia Hiniadou-Cambanis: I agree. I feel very fortunate that I have the chance to see, hear, smell, taste and touch the world in new ways while preserving my national identity, being Greek. I believe that this is a great privilege. As George said, our common cultural heri-

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I worked for four years on a culture campaign in Europe, representing the city of Athens in Copenhagen, and Madrid, and Glasgow. Maria Panagiotopoulou: I strongly believe that art can help towards a really united Europe. Being at the press office of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival for the last 20 years, I have seen how art affects people. When you attend a concert or a theatre performance from a foreign company you realize that we all share the same emotions, problems, concerns. Audiences can be trained through art to accept diversity, to respect another’s nations culture, habits and beliefs. See what happened with the refugees recently. Many Europeans were hostile towards them. It is not only a financial issue. It is also a matter of understanding the human nature despite nationalities and different backgrounds. Art talks directly to the heart and changes people in a profound way. Sofia Hiniadou-Cambanis: I agree. The cornerstone of our European culture, as seen in the relief of 5th c. B.C. Athena in contemplation or in Rodin’s Thinker, is the constant quest for the spirit. Just after WWI, Paul Valery described, rather succinctly, the three elements on which European civlization is based: ‘Athens, Rome and Jerusalem; the Ancient Greek spirit, the institutional heritage of Ancient Rome and the Judaeo-Christian doctrine. Those are the foundations of our Europe.’ Alberto Cano: What Sophia said about the three pillars of European culture - the Greek component, it was actually lost for many centuries, and saved by the Arabs and the Muslims. They are the ones who saved Greek culture and translated it. Now we have this trend [to demonize the Muslims]. But at the time, the crazy ones were the crusading Christians. Do you think Europe should follow the American model?

THINK TANK

If you look at the wider picture, the influx of immigrants within the EU is not as huge a challenge and it can very easily be absorbed. Tim Ananiadis, General Manager & Managing Director, Hotel Grande Bretagne/Hotel King George

This is Europe’s strength today: The capacity to become a global actor without using hard power.

Sophia Hiniadou-Cambanis, Head of Cultural Affairs, Hellenic Presidency

Tim Ananiadis: From my perspective, from the Hotel Grande Bretagne, we’ve seen the nationalists, we’ve seen the communists, and we’ve seen the anarchists, and they all had one reason to be here: that was to be seen or heard. What distinguishes the American model from the European one, is the sentiment of national pride. Secondly, I think from the ‘relocation’ perspective, the US is very conducive to inter-state moves and job opportunities. Unfortunately, Europeans, are still very reluctant to move. However, that’s coming. And thirdly, bringing lesser nations into the mainstream, that is what we should do from a wealth perspective. Ambassador, you have spent a lot of time in the US? Any thoughts on the Trans-Atlantic relationship? Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: Having spent over ten years in the USA, I place great value on the transatlantic relationship between the EU and the USA. Both Greece and Ireland have significant Diasporas in the USA and this is something which is valued by our Government and citizens– most Irish people have a link of some kind with the USA. That said, there are challenges in the communication between the EU and USA – I recall the famous comment by Henry Kissinger – if I want to contact Europe, whose number do I call? Therefore we need to keep up this engagement and dialogue ongoing and hopefully this can strengthen as new Heads of EU Institutions take up their posts in the autumn and engage with the US Administration. I know that the US Ambassador here is very proactive in that dialogue, for example. At the EU level, efforts continue to enhance the relationship between the EU and the US, through the EU Delegation based in Washington DC. The main role of the Delegation is to provide information and understanding of EU policies to the US administration, led by the Head of the EU Delegation, Ambassador Stravros Lambrinidis, a Greek National

THINK TANK

Even if Europe is perceived as an economic union and, as a political union, it has to be more than anything, a cultural union. George Manginis, Academic Director, Benaki Museum

Can we realistically think of a United States of Europe? George Manginis: There are ways of doing it. One is to look at the past. The other day, I was looking at a painting showing King Otto’s arrival in Nafplion in 1830s Greece. And there is a black person dressed exactly like the Greeks in the picture, probably a freed slave. How much more diverse the Greek world was than we think, how many languages were spoken within Greece! I keep on stressing “the empire factor” because historically it can help us deal with the idea of strangers living together. We have been taught at school a monolithic view of our existence, which is fake. There were a lot of different peoples with whom we’ve lived for centuries. We have to start being taught history properly. And other European countries have to be a part of the curriculum. If we want to unite our countries, we have to teach our children the history of Europe, which has to start from the Neolithic Age, not from Charlemagne, or Ancient Greece. All the way back to the agricultural revolution. If we want to create a sense of belonging, we have to teach it. So that’s one way: going back in time. The other way is realizing and accepting how international contemporary culture is. Our young, today’s youth, are wonderfully amoralistic and non-partisan when it comes to their identity. Maria Panagiotopoulou: We take for granted the freedom Europe has given us. Young children, like my daughter 21 and my son 18, do not realize what it means to travel easily, to go abroad on the Erasmus program, to be able to work in another country. At a time when Greece is facing such a big crisis, being able to find solutions within Europe gives hope and prospective. The problem is that Europe seems sometimes impersonal. Huge committees, nominees that are totally unknown, policies that do not reach the large audiences of the different countries. Therefore, there is skep-

ticism among young people concerning united Europe. For us the older generation, that we remember the previous situation, it is clear that there has been a progress in our life. In our everyday life. How do we get our youth to be more politically engaged in Europe? Alexia Kefala: We have failed to highlight the positive aspect of Europe. What is sexy for the youth. Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: Even though engaging the youth in elections can be challenging, what I have found is that young Irish people have been very engaged in social issues such as the recent referenda on same sex marriage and abortion reform. And do you think politicians have cottoned on to that, and realized that if they want the young vote, they need to address these social issues? Ambassador Orla O’Hanrahan: I think the younger politicians are definitely in touch with youth culture, our own Prime Minister Leo Varadkar being a case in point. Tim Ananiadis: If you want social engagement, you need to allow the youth to be able to vote off their mobiles. If not, you cannot get them to go down to a voting booth. Maria Panagiotopoulou: I suppose for students like my son who are involved in science, going abroad is the only way that they can somehow expand their knowledge, and have the opportunity to do a really good job, because there’s no hope at the moment in Greece. But this incredible freedom of movement that we have, Europe could draw inspiration from it to form a positive narrative that embraces migration instead of treating it mainly as a threat. As the new continent of immigration, Europe will increasingly need that narrative.

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who earlier this year succeeded David O’Sullivan, an Irish National.

Arts & Events

22 Flowers for the Benaki Museum

WHAT: Twenty two of Nicholas Egonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s evocative paintings grace the Ghika Gallery until late July. Hungarian aristocrat Egon had a life-long affair with Greece. His colour-drenched landscapes that exude painterly finesse are up for sale with proceeds supporting the Benaki Museum. WHEN: Until July 20 WHERE: The Ghika Gallery, Kriezotou 3 INFO: Opening hours, Friday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm benaki.org

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L I N D B E R G

BARTON PERREIRA

2 Artemidos, Glyfada Tel. (+30) 210.892.0934

ARTS & EVENTS

Picasso and Antiquity, Line and Clay WHAT: The Museum of Cycladic Art’s Divine Dialogue series features one of the great 20th century artists of all time, the legendary Pablo Picasso. A rare exhibition of Picasso’s drawings, engravings and pottery, fired by the Creto-Mycenaean and Greek worlds. The pieces depict marine creatures, animals, human figures, mythological spectacles, and scenes provoked by ancient tragedy and comedy. WHEN: June 20 to October 20 WHERE: Museum of Cycladic Art, Neophytou Douka 4, Tel: +30 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr

A Shared Vision WHAT: Artist Alekos Fassianos and poet Vangelis Chronis have been inspiring each other’s creativity with their shared vision, now the theme of a rare exhibition at the Theoharakis Foundation. For the past 30 years, the two men have been exchanging images and words, each transfusing new ideas into the other’s work. Paintings, sketches and engravings, as well as objects made of clay, bronze and glass, manuscripts, letters, previously unpublished photographs and first editions stand as indisputable proof of their shared endeavor. WHEN: Until September 29 WHERE: B&M Theoharakis Foundation, Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Tel: +30 210.361.1206 thf.gr

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ARTS & EVENTS

John Cleese: Last time to see me before I die WHAT: Comedy icon John Cleese will be performing his final act, “Last time to see me before I die”, just below the Acropolis at the open-air theatre on Herod Atticus. The actor and writer, who rose to fame in the Monty Python and Fawlty Towers TV series, with his characteristic black humour, has been touring the world for the last five years and shows no signs of stopping. Tickets are selling fast for this once-in-a-lifetime combination of legendary comic and legendary venue, so book now to avoid disappointment. WHEN: September 20 WHERE: Odeon of Herod Atticus, Dionysion Areopagitou St. Viva.gr

Athens State Orchestra: Steven Spielberg Tribute WHAT: Trace Spielberg’s impressive filmography and relive the dramatic highs of his riveting soundtracks. The Athens State Orchestra plays some of the most enduring scores in tribute to the legendary film director at an iconic venue. WHEN: June 24 WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Dionysiou Areopagitou, 105 55, Tel: +30 210.928.2900 greekfestival.gr athens insider | 18 |

KOLONAKI 15 Skoufa str. 10673 Kolonaki, Athens +30 210 3635600

KIFISIA 11 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8016641

FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE HOTEL 40 Apollonos str. 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens

LU I SAWO R L D.C O M

MYKONOS Nammos Village Psarou +30 2289 022015

BOTTEGA VENETA 14 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8085182

ARTS & EVENTS

Omara Portuondo WHAT: The grande dame of the Buena Vista Social Club, Omara Portuondo hits the Greek capital this July as part of her Last Kiss tour. The 88-year-old legend along with her orchestra and group of dancers will be in town for a single show, sharing her life-giving Cuban secrets along with some fitting summer notes. WHEN: July 15 at 9.30pm WHERE: Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi. Tel: +30 210.347.5518 technopolis-athens.com

7 The Good Shepherds

WHAT: An exhibition that aims to honour and inspire, The Good Shepherds illuminates how the Christian clergy and respected rabbis helped the Jews who were persecuted during the Nazi occupation. It is a moving tribute presented by the Jewish Museum of Greece that strives to capture the positive actions and rescue efforts of those involved. WHEN: Until October 4 WHERE: Jewish Museum of Greece, Nikis 39. Tel: +30 210.322.5582 jewishmuseum.gr athens insider | 20 |

ARTS & EVENTS

Maria Callas Exhibition WHAT: A tribute to the ultimate diva. More than 40 years after Callas’ death, you can now view an evocative collection of her private belongings and keepsakes at the same theatre where she made her operatic debut to rave reviews. Head to the new Maria Callas Cultural Space at the Olympia Theatre to browse some of her striking costumes, dresses and hairpieces, along with old photographs, signed programmes and handwritten letters from friends and fellow artists.

WHEN: Until July 31 WHERE: Olympia Theatre, 59 Akadimias, Tel:+30 210 528 4800 Opening hours: Tues-Fri: 10am to 6pm; Sat & Sun: 10am to 2pm technopolis-athens.com

Bells and Spells by Victoria Thiérrée Chaplin WHAT: Bells and Spells is a multilayered moving spectacle created by Charlie Chaplin’s daughter Victoria Thiérrée Chaplin and his granddaughter Aurelia. Aurelia plays a kleptomaniac who succumbs to the beauty, magic, and stories provided to her by the items she has “borrowed” from parallel worlds.

WHEN: June 26 at 7.30pm WHERE: Greek National Opera, 364 Syngrou Avenue Tel: +30 213.088.5700 snfestival.org

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Athens: 11 Voukourestiou str. 10671 | Mykonos: Nammos Shopping Village, Psarou Beach 84600 | Î¤.: +30 210 36 47 989 | www.callistacrafts.com

ARTS & EVENTS

Plisskën Festival 2019 WHAT: The line-up at this year’s Plisskën Festival promises high-octane frenzy with big names such as Giorgio Moroder headlining and live shows and DJ sets by established and rising acts like Jungle, The Black Madonna, Tinariwen, Hunee, Khidja, Jacques Greene, Boy Harsher, Peter Bjorn & John, Nicola Cruz, Rone, Lena Willikens, Donny Benet and many more.

WHEN: June 26 to June 27 at 5pm WHERE: Technopolis, 100 Pireos, Gazi, 118 54, Tel: +30 210.347.5518 plisskënfestival.gr

Curtis Harding Live in Athens

WHAT: Hallelujah! Fans of Michigan-born Curtis Harding have reason to rejoice as he performs in Athens for the first time in July. For some gospel-inflected soul and funk to match your summer mood, look no further. WHEN: July 16 at 9.30pm WHERE: Gazarte Roof Stage, 34 Voutadon, Keramikos. Tel: +30 210.346.0347 viva.gr

Elegies in Stone and Metal, Kapralos and Katraki WHAT: Roma Gallery plays host to two of Greece’s most influential Post-War artists, sculptor Christos Kapralos and engraver, Vasso Katraki. Close friends in real life, a unifying narrative runs through their creations. At the core of their compositions are the subjects of man, life and destiny. Together, they conjure myths and true narratives, steeped in imagery, in stone and metal. WHEN: Until July 31 WHERE: Roma Gallery, Roma 5, Kolonaki. Tel: +30 213.035.8344 roma-gallery.com athens insider | 24 |

Kassis.net

EGO Athens - Mykonos Tel.(+30)2103641000

ÂŠGiorgos Xigos

ARTS & EVENTS

45 x 45 | The street art group show WHAT: A celebration of urban art. The Blender Gallery and Manos Nomikos juxtapose the compositions of talented young Greek artists who've adopted the city's walls as their canvas. Participating artists include Blaqk, Don Forty, SUGAHSPANK and MAMBO among others. WHEN: Until July 22 WHERE: The Blender Gallery theblendergallery.gr

Scene from The cook ,the thief, his wife and her lover

Athens Open Air Film Festival WHAT: Few capitals do summer as Athens does, with over 60 open-air summer cinemas promising drama, romance, high-jinx action, and rip-roaring comedy. Timeless classics, indie gems and blockbusters are screened under the starry Athenian sky at iconic landmarks such as museums, squares, gardens, and archaeological parks. (where antique merchants lay claim during the day).

WHEN: Until August 31 WHERE: Please refer to the festivalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website for the programme aoaff.gr

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ARTS & EVENTS

16 Emfylo-ποιείν / to construct the Gender WHAT: In our gender-fluid, gender-confused society how do we define femininity? Or masculinity? A group of international and Greek artists explore the contentious issue of binary sexuality through video installations, photography, sculptures, paintings, collages and more. athens insider | 28 |

WHEN: Until July 26, and after a brief summer break from August 28 to September 14 WHERE: Aristofanous 20, Psyrri. Tel : +30 210. 321.4994 a.antonopoulou.art

CULTURE | PEOPLE

Why you shouldn’t miss Yo Yo Ma’s concert T

wo bucket-lists in one – watching Yo-Yo Ma, the acclaimed cellist perform at the Herod Atticus for a single spellbinding evening on 30 June, under a near-new moon in his first ever appearance in Greece. Athens Insider lists out all the reasons this concert is one of the unmissable music events of the summer. •A Child prodigy : The Paris-born, Chinese-American cellist Yo-Yo Ma began playing the violin at the age of 4 and first performed before an audience at the age of 5. When he was 7 years old, he performed in front of US presidents Dwight D. Eisenhower and John F. Kennedy. He made his first television appearance at the age of 8, in a concert conducted by Leonard Bernstein! • Prolific career: Yo-Yo Ma has recorded over 90 albums, has won 18 Grammy Awards and been nominated another 27. • Distinctions: Yo-Yo Ma served on the President Obama’s Committee on the Arts and Humanities and was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom. He has won numerous other distinctions, including the National Medal of Arts (2001) and the Polar Award (2012), to name a few. • Films: Yo-Yo Ma has participated in the soundtracks of many popular films, including Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World, Seven Years in Tibet, Memoirs of a Geisha, Once Upon a Time in America, The Mission and The Untouchables.

©JasonBell

• Collaborations: He has collaborated with Carlos Santana, joined by singer India Arie in the cover of the Beatles song “While My Guitar Gently Weeps, he has worked with Pixinguinha, Phillip Glass, Bobby McFerrin, and numerous others.

Bach’s cello suites have been my constant musical companions. For almost six decades, they have given me sustenance, comfort, and joy during times of stress, celebration, and loss. What power does this music possess that even today, after three hundred years, it continues to help us navigate through troubled times? And why am I sharing it with you, today?

• The Bach connection: Bach’s work has defined Yo-Yo Ma’s life and career. He performed Bach’s Suite No 1 at the age of 4 . The Bach Project was launched in August 2018 and in has been presented in 36 locations around the world, including iconic venues such as the St. Nicholas Church in Leipzig, the Washington National Cathedral and the Red Rocks Amphitheater in Colorado.

21:00 Odeon of Herodes Atticus Yo-Yo Ma | The Bach Project The 6 Unaccompanied Cello Suites Tickets: greekfestival.gr | ticketmaster.gr | tel.: +30 210. 893.8112

30-06

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CULTURE | PEOPLE

lGLYFADA 78 kyprou str. Τ. +302108946682 l KIFISSIA 8 kolokotroni str. Τ: +302106234324 lMYKONOS : cavo Tago Hotel Τ: +302289077351 w: .zerteojewelry.com

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Onassis Cultural Center

CULTURE

ONASSIS AND NIARCHOS

A duel in the sun Unrelenting rivals in life, global shipping magnates and proponents of the luxury lifestyle, Aristotle Onassis and Stavros Niarchos are perpetuating their rivalry posthumously. Their formidable cultural institutions aspire to revolutionize Athens as a cultural destination, inadvertently shifting the city’s cultural epicentre towards the sea, Alexia Kefalas notes.

n the maelstrom of Syngrou Avenue traffic, which connects Athens to the port of Piraeus, two impressive buildings stand out. They symbolize modernity and openness, reflecting a new image for Athens: that of a cultural destination par excellence. The first, the Onassis Foundation, also called Stegi, ‘roof’ in Greek, houses ‘the arts and letters’. The building is constructed from a huge block Thassos marble, with a glass base. The second, the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Foundation - SNFCC, is a haven of peace nestled in the Faliro delta, just off the noisy avenue. It welcomes visitors with a canal filled with sea water, as if to announce its proximity to the coast, and a sumptuous Mediterranean garden of olive trees and cypresses, that surround a colossal building housing the National Opera and the brand-new National Library. Founded in 2010, the Onassis Foundation, was funded by shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, and is now run by a board of directors unconnected to Aristotle's granddaughter and heiress Athina. Just a few hundred meters away and seven years later, the Niarchos Foundation was inaugurated, and financed by the Niarchos family at a cost of 630 million euros. Unlike the Onassis Cultural Center, it was gifted to the State, that administers it in collaboration with the Niarchos Foundation. The Stavros Nirachos Cultural Foundation (SNFCC) is funded exclusively by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation (SNF), which promotes cultural, education and sports activities globally. Both cultural institutions had the boldness to emerge in the midst of Greece's economic crisis and succeeded in bringing about a cultural

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The National Library at the Stavros Niarchos Cultural Foundation - SNFCC

Onassis Cultural Center

Stavros Niarchos with Athina Livanos

Greek National Opera, SNFCC

revival and an upswing for Greece’s cultural influence. In visiting these wonderfully designed temples of culture, that have been fully embraced by Greeks, it is hard not to think of their founders, whose startling stories are full of irony.

Their epic saga

In the 1940s, Aristotle Onassis and Stavros Niarchos were two budding Greek shipowners in New York, whose rivalry had already kicked off, both professionally and personally. They both toiled to make their mark in the shipping industry, while trying to draw the attention of Athina (Tina). This teenager with movie-star good looks, was unlike others, being the daughter of the patriarch of the Greek diaspora’s shipowners - Stavros Livanos. At the age of 40, with Tina being 17, it’s Aristotle Onassis that sealed the deal for strategic reasons, convincing Tina’s father he was the one for her. Shortly after that marriage, Stavros Niarchos agrees to marry Tina’s older sister, Eugenia. Peter Evans’ revelatory biography on Onassis is a study on jealousy, love, money and power, capturing the extent of the fierce competition between the two shipowners: “When Niarchos appeared on the cover of ‘Time’ magazine, Evans recalled, Onassis did everything to have his own. Onassis owned the yacht ‘Christina’, Niarchos, ‘Kreoli’. Onassis bought and transformed the island of Skorpios into a small private paradise, while Niarchos did the same with Spetsopoula Island. When Onassis received Greta Garbo, Niarchos welcomed Ru-

dolf Nureyev. Aristotle marries the widow of the President of the United States, Stavros fathers a child with Charlotte Ford, daughter of the automobile magnate.” After her sister Eugenia’s mysterious death, Tina (already a 10 yeardivorcee from Onassis) hastens to marry her brother-in-law, Niarchos; something Onassis and his daughter Christina never forgave her for. Today, Athina Onassis, Aristotle’s granddaughter, has little connection with her cousins Stavros and Eugenie, both of whom lead diametrically opposed lives. Athina lives a private and quiet life, while the Niarchos siblings seem to enjoy the spotlight and celebrity. The differences in character of these two antagonistic families, is reflected in the architectural design of the two foundations that bear their names. It doesn't seem to be a coincidence that the construction of the Niarchos Foundation, began just a few days after the inauguration of the Onassis Center. The Stegi is a seemingly austere building on the outside, almost barricaded, in contrast with the size of the two auditoria and transparency of the building inside. The Niarchos Foundation, on the contrary, spreads over more than 210,000sqm with 170 hectares of landscaped parkland. Christos Carras, artistic director of the Onassis Cultural Center, explained that the design comes from the Architecture Studio “who designed the building of the European Parliament”. Whereas the SNFCC was the vision of Renzo Piano, whose other architectural landmarks include the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

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Aristotle Onassis with Athina Livanos

CULTURE

Discovering these different worlds, under the shadow of their founder's history, drives home the influence wielded by shipowner families in their native land. According to Ilias Tzempetonidis, Casting Director for the Paris Opera, who has worked in Greece for years, this tradition of philanthropy is a great opportunity for Greece. “In antiquity,” he explains, “the practice was that the richest in the city should also be its benefactors. These so-called benefactors were patrons of cultural activities.” He believes that these two cultural institutions complement rather than compete with one another, whilst creating a unique challenge for the country, “to position itself on the international scene in educational and cultural matters”. That is precisely what these new temples must hope to accomplish.

Different approaches to culture

Christos Carras, who followed the construction of the Onassis Cultural Center from its very beginning, explains that “since the building was designed, the centre’s programming has changed: it was meant to be classic and institutional, it is in fact, totally avant-garde”. Once inside, you have the impression of being aboard a luxury liner, the steps in bluish glass look like waves, an

allusion to Aristotle Onassis, who wanted to be the king of the seas. Christos Carras is fascinated by the contrast offered by the interior and exterior of this building: “The marble, which is a very classical material for the Greeks, is used in a modern way, with minimalist lines that frame the building outside. Inside, everything is, on the contrary, alive and warm, with games of transparency and light. In the daytime, you cannot see what is going on inside, but at nightfall, as soon as the lights come on, it’s a guessing game for the passer-by on what might transpire here!” He adds, “We are the only ones working on current, contemporary, interdisciplinary and international creations. The Onassis Foundation has been working for forty-five years in the field of health, education and culture. We have a scholarship and research support programme, but since the creation of the Cultural Centre in 2010, the Foundation has been focusing more on contemporary culture.” From performing arts, debates, visual and digital arts, to music and drama, the idea is to provide a high-level technical platform, and to work with other institutions abroad.

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CULTURE

Giorgio Bianchi, Renzo Piano’s architect partner, spent eight years at the Niarchos Foundation's construction site. “It was a unique adventure,” he says of his time in Athens. “Each architectural project changes the future of the city. Part of our mission was to improve the life of the city and its inhabitants. To create this building, we smelled the atmosphere, listened to the sounds of the city for hours. One of the most delicate points was to build, on this flat land by the sea, a hill that matches the shape of the building. And on the hill, to install photovoltaic panels that can supply energy to a part of the building, then draw below the building in several areas, to play with natural light. ”

The city beneath the city

Their task was made all the more complex by, the discovery of a necropolis with more than a thousand graves, during the archaeological excavations that preceded the construction. This find paved the way for an invaluable study of anthropological data on diseases, nutritional deficiencies, life expectancy, and social classes.

Especially important was the April 2016 unearthing of eighty aligned skeletons belonging to the young aristocrats who participated in Cylon’s failed coup, at the end of the seventh century BC. Their death sentence was by crucifixion, with their wrists attached by handcuffs to wooden boards. Thucydides writes that this former Olympic champion, had attempted, with the help of his father-inlaw, the tyrant Theagènes of Megara, to seize power from the city’s Archons (magistrates). The Archons stopped Cylon and forced him and his followers to retreat and take cover at the Temple of Athena. Cylon and his followers were persuaded by the Archons to leave the temple and stand trial, as they were promised their lives would be spared if they appeared in court. However, shortly after Cylon and his men left the temple, they were executed. When the bodies of the victims were exhumed at the beginning of the twentieth century, the discovery caused a scandal: how could the Athenians, who conceived the idea of democracy, use such barbaric methods? The leading archaeologist was almost lynched, and the excavations were interrupted. Passions have now subsided and Stella Chryssoulaki, Ephorate of Antiquities for Piraeus, who led the excavation project, was able to complete the examination of the battered remains lined-up in a mass grave in three parallel rows, “they were young men, 20-25 years old, and in good health” she noted. “There were even two children, between the ages of 12-14.” The study, still in progress, illuminates one of the most mysterious episodes in the history of ancient Athens. The archaeologists reached a compromise – the necropolis and the skeletons were sheltered under a tent, while work on the Niarchos Foundation resumed, allowing it to open in 2017.

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Stavros Niarchos Cultural Foundation - SNFCC www.athensinsider.com

Like its building, the Onassis Cultural Center’s approach to culture is urban and conceptual; the polar opposite of the Niarchos Foundation which focuses on the ecological aspect, with programmed shows accessible to the public for free.

CULTURE

Onassis Cultural Center

A light-filled home for books and the opera

The light licks the windows of the National Library and that of the Greek National Opera, creating undulating shapes that resemble waves. The view of the city stretching across to Piraeus, with the sea on one side and Athens' skyline on the other is stunning. Renzo Piano clearly wanted to establish a dialogue between architecture and nature and succeeds brilliantly. “This is the continuity of the life of the Greeks of classical antiquity” says Giorgos Koumendakis, director of the Greek National Opera. “Art always took place outdoors. The ancient theatres are open-air, the islanders only have to take a chair and settle themselves outside to chat in the afternoon. The SNFCC has revived adjacent neighbourhoods. Many stroll there every day, and also discover the Opera in the bargain.” The other building adjoining the Opera House, is the National Library, complementing the beautiful neoclassical library in the city centre, which no longer had the capabilities to hold the library’s collection. Renzo Piano used the experience gained from the renovation and expansion of the Public Library of New York, to ensure that a good part of the 750,000 books of the National Library would be visible. He created a serene space, with Athens’ piercingly clear light filtering in through its massive glass windows. Perched on the bookshelves are prized treasures; in particular an edition of Homer’s ‘Iliad’, dedicated to Napoleon, signed by the Italian printer Giambattista Bodoni. Under the sloping ceiling, which follows the slope of the hill, researchers will be able to study in a vast room reserved just for them in Autumn 2019. The two buildings thus create a harmonious and peaceful ensemble, capped off by the rooftop garden. Some archaeologists have deemed the creation of this false hill that reverses its natural slope in order to provide a platform for views of the Acropolis, almost a sign of hubris, considered as a crime punishable by the vengeance of the gods in ancient Greece.

“This building is at the spiritual axis of the sea, the city and the Acropolis, which gives the impression that our shows are produced for the Gods.” A beautiful and beneficial legacy Giorgos Koumendakis is undeniably proud of its magnificent concert and ballet rehearsal rooms, its acoustics and the circular shape of the imposing stage in the main concert hall that seats 1,400 culture lovers. He believes that his mission is also to educate and introduce the Greek public to opera. He will in any case have the financial and technical means to achieve it. A recent donation of 2 million euros from the SNF to the Greek National Opera, will allow for 18 different shows this year. A pledge of confidence, which paradoxically has repelled some artists. Despite the contribution of the two Foundations being indisputable, there are some differing viewpoints: “It is difficult today to talk about culture in Greece without referring to these two Foundations, but the names Onassis or Niarchos are, for some, symbols of capitalism and the mainstream establishment, which rejects alternative society” notes Muriel Piquet-Viaux, Cultural Attaché at the French Embassy in Greece. “This does not prevent them from co-existing, and this is the paradox and beauty of this unconventional and inspiring city for artists. There are nearly 380 theatres in Athens alone, and new artists’ residences cropping up. There is a real effervescence.” The epic rivalry is still alive and well, and the city of Athens remains eternally grateful! This text first appeared in Le Figaro’s ‘Hors Serie’ special edition on Athens. Translated by Sudha Nair-Iliades. To subscribe, visit boutique.lefigaro.fr

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CULTURE

ath ens fe sti The 2019 val bucket-list

From acclaimd cellist Yo Yo Ma to Robert Wilson, Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vanguard theatre artist, the Athens Festival this year is an anthology of unmissable bucket-list performances at epic venues.

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CULTURE

music dance & visual arts

ROBERT WILSON

Oedipus

2122/06 21:00

The iconic story of Oedipus comes alive in Robert Wilson’s series of breathtaking tableaux vivants. The internationally acclaimed director follows Oedipus’ story in chronological order, without strictly adapting Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex, from the moment of his birth and his abandonment as an infant to the moment of his self-inflicted blinding, following the horrific revelations: from the first light of birth to the last light he sees before it all goes black. Two ‘witnesses,’ a man and a woman, spin his tale, the life and times of Oedipus, speaking across the centuries.

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Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

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CULTURE

mu sic WIENER SYMPHONIKER

Leonidas Kavakos

22-06 21:00

The Wiener Symphoniker (Vienna Symphony Orchestra) joins forces with the acclaimed violinist and conductor Leonidas Kavakos. The Wiener Symphoniker is one of the leading orchestras in the world. Founded in 1900, the Orchestra has collaborated with legendary musicians, including Richard Strauss, Wilhelm Furtwängler, Herbert von Karajan, Leonard Bernstein, Georges Prêtre, and Vladimir Fedosejev. Leonidas Kavakos made his concert debut at Herod Atticus in 1984, which firmly established him among the top soloists in the world.

CHINA NATIONAL SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA - SALZBURG KINDERCHOR ENJOTT SCHNEIDER - OTTO SAUTER - TEN OF THE BEST

03-08 21:00

Ceremony of Harmony Musicians from different countries join forces to convey a universal vision of world peace. In the first part of the concert, the German composer Enjott Schneider joins forces with trumpeteer Otto Sauter, joined by Ten of the Best, an ensemble consisting of ten of the world’s leading trumpet players. In the second part, the China National Symphony Orchestra, conducted by Yan Bozheng, will perform classic works from around the world. In the third and final part, the famed Salzburg Kinderchor (Salzburg Children’s Choir) will take the floor. Odeon of Herodes Atticus

Odeon of Herodes Atticus

ORCHESTRE PHILHARMONIQUE DU LUXEMBOURG

Yuja Wang – Gustavo Gimeno

17-06 21:00

The Orchestre Philharmonique du Luxembourg was founded in 1933 and currently consists of 98 musicians from over 20 countries. Having won numerous awards over the years, the Orchestra remains a major cultural institution in Luxembourg, giving concerts all over Europe, Asia, and the Americas, while also being active in educational projects aimed to children and youths, as well as performing at schools and hospitals. The acclaimed pianist Yuja Wang has been appointed artist in residence at the Orchestre Philharmonique du Luxembourg for the season 2018-2019. Wang rose to fame in 2007, when she replaced Martha Argerich at the Boston Symphony Orchestra and went on to captivate audiences with her virtuosity and her riveting performing style. Odeon of Herodes Atticus athens insider | 40 |

CULTURE

th ea tre

COMÉDIE-FRANÇAISE - IVO VAN HOVE

Electra / Orestes

2627/07 21:00

Ivon van Hove once again joins forces with the company of Comédie-Française, delivering another impressive gallery of characters, focusing on the House of Atreides. This second collaboration of Comédie-Française with one of the internationally acclaimed masters of theatre was the perfect opportunity for Éric Ruf and Vangelis Theodoropoulos to bring together these two great institutions of European theatre in a collaborative project. In this case, the director brings together two Euripides plays telling the story of Electra and Orestes and more specifically how the two siblings reunite and make a pact to take revenge against their mother, Clytemnestra, and her lover, Aegisthus. This performance also marks the first time that Euripides’ Electra will be performed by Comédie-Française. Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

THÉÂTRE DU SOLEIL - ROBERT LEPAGE

Kanata – Episode I – La Controverse

1315/07

A French couple moves to Vancouver. The woman is an artist and soon becomes friends with an indigenous woman who lives in the slums of the city. The latter is murdered by a serial killer. Inspired by this incident, the artist decides to paint the faces of the various indigenous women murdered in the area. This is the first time in the fifty-four years of its history that Ariane Mnouchkine has entrusted the legendary Théâtre du Soleil troupe to a guest director: the internationally celebrated Canadian Robert Lepage. The show Lepage assembled fragments of a poetic, dark and epic-scale universe, retracing two hundred years of his country’s history ‘Kanata’ is an Iroquoian word meaning ‘village’, that gave Canada its name. Megaron Mousikis

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CULTURE

www.athensinsider.com

Exclusive Real Estate in Greece

DIPLOMACY

Diplomacy of Inclusion Ambassador Mark Allen in conversation with Sudha Nair-Iliades on Canada’s long-term investments in Greece, Greek-Canadian Katerina Duska’s performance at the Eurovision and on the need to challenge gender stereotypes

ur interview is set at the joyous, sprawling six-acre gardens of the Vorres Museum, informally referred to as Canada House. Its gardens, strewn with marble fountain-wells, wrought-iron benches and statues conjure a heightened sense of drama and intrigue, a heavenly fusion (or confusion) of classical order and theatrical flourish. Despite its size, there is a sense of intimacy. The brainchild of Ian Vorres, a visionary Greek-Canadian, the Museum boasts an eclectic collection of contemporary, folk and ancient treasures, with some dating as far back as 2,500 years. On this sun-scorched Mediterranean spring morning, we’re grateful for the leafy canopies and ancient wisteria swooping down on us. Orange blossoms scent the air. Since it first opened its doors in 1983, the Museum has inadvertently taken on the role of building cultural bridges between Canada and Greece. The Artists’ Residency Programme at the Museum, now in its fifth year, provides emerging and mid-career Canadian visual artists a unique opportunity to immerse themselves into Greek culture, Ambassador Mark Allen explains. A cat curls up by one of the vacant chairs, as if keen to drop in on our conversation. CULTURE: Canada will have a strong showing this summer with several Canadian artists performing at the Athens and Epidaurus Festival as well as at the Nafplio Festival, and at Tinos. What are some of the cultural highlights we can look forward to in 2019? I think that Greece is a cultural outdoor theatre in itself, with activities going on all around the country, and there is a rich calendar of cultural events all year long. We’ll be going to Tinos to open the solo exhibit Passages of a past Canadian resident artist, Allyson Glenn. The Icons of Light concert at the Nafplion Festival will premiere original compositions by Canadian and Greek composers. [There’s the] Kalamata Dance Festival, where there will be a film on a Canadian dance icon, Louise Lecavalier. And then looking ahead to the fall, there’s hope that Canadian film-makers will, once again, be involved in the Thessaloniki Film Festival. So, it’s a full year. Were you pleasantly surprised by the flurry of cultural activities in Greece? I’m not surprised at all. I think it’s something that penetrates society here. People are aware of their deep cultural roots. It’s an element that we can take advantage of through diplomacy, to build bridges through culture. Where were you first posted before Greece? My first posting was in Rwanda, and then I was posted in London, and

later I represented Canada at an international organization. COMMUNITY: Greece has a large Canadian (dual-national community living here) and there is a large and vibrant Greek community in Canada. How does this influence the connection between your two countries? We have 270,000 Greek-Canadians, so that is a tremendous pillar of our relationship. What really struck me was, before my arrival, I was warmly greeted by the community in Canada, who have made achievements in all walks of life. And it’s through those achievements that we can build the bridges between our two countries and open doors. I was privileged to accept an award on behalf of the Chief Justice of the Canadian Supreme Court, Andromache Karakatsanis, in the presence of the President of the Hellenic Republic. She won an Argonaut award, as one of eight prominent Greek members of the Diaspora who have made vast contributions in their professions. Another privilege I have had recently was to see Katerina Duska off to Tel Aviv for the Eurovision Song Contest. We are immensely proud that she made it to the finals. She is, of course, a Greek-Canadian from Montreal, with a fantastic career ahead of her. TRADE AND ECONOMY: Ambassador, your posting here coincides with Greece finally crawling out of a ten-year crisis. It comes on the back of a renewed bilateral agreement between Greece and Canada and of high-profile Canadian entries into the Greek market, such as Four Seasons Hotels in the luxury hospitality sector. Are other investments on the cards? I think a lot of people don’t realize that Canada has an enormous investment footprint in this country, in sectors like banking, mining, and infrastructure. These Canadian investments are long-standing, they predated the crisis. I think they demonstrated the commitment that Canadian investors have to this country, and its fundamental investment performance over the long term. So, part of my role here is helping them to realize the gains from their commitment. And I think that if these goals are realized, then other investors will see that Greece is open for business. As a diplomat, how do you safeguard these Canadian investments from a sometimes-hostile business environment? We certainly help to open doors where we need to, and to serve as advocates when our commercial interests align with Greece. We fundamentally believe that there’s opportunities for both countries to realize prosperity. I think our task here is to look after current investments, and that if those are sustained, that other investors will see the benefits of being here as well.

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INTERVIEW

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Photos: Ioanna Koulakou

Canada has an enormous investment footprint in this country in sectors like banking, mining, and infrastructure. These Canadian investments are longstanding, they predated the crisis. I think they demonstrated the commitment that Canadian investors have to this country, and its fundamental investment performance over the long term.

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ARTS & EVENTS

I think one thing that Greece could perhaps draw a lesson from Canada is in the visibility of role models. In Canada, we have openly gay and lesbian athletes, politicians, business people. I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to have positive role models and for Greek men and women to challenge gender stereotypes

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DIPLOMACY

With Brexit looming and European identity at a crossroads, how much has that informed your daily duties and your reports back to Canada? We knew there would be European elections in May, and now there will be national elections in July. It’s exciting to see democracy in action in its original birthplace, so I feel very lucky to be able to cover that on behalf of my government. The European elections were also an exercise in that democracy. I think from our perspective we were gratified that there wasn’t the polarization that we’ve seen in some of Greece’s neighbours, and that it rather reaffirmed democratic principles, and reinforced stability in Europe and in the Mediterranean, which is important for Canada. Have you had the opportunity to travel much around Greece? Not as much as I want to. I’ve been to a few places, but there are some other places that I’m looking forward to going to. I’ll be going to Crete in a couple of weeks, to participate at a ceremony related to the Canadian navy’s contribution to NATO’s presence in the Mediterranean. So that will be my first trip to Crete. Another place I’m really looking forward to visiting is Kastoria, because we have very long-standing historical links rooted in the fur industry, between the fur sector in Canada and in Kastoria. And I also understand that it’s a very beautiful town to visit. The Canadian Institute has been in Greece for over 45 years. The Canadian Archaeological Institute, or Canadian Institute, as it is currently known, is a unique institution. Not only does it facilitate the work of Canadian archaeologists and students in conducting important fieldwork and research in Greece but it also acts as a link in bringing together Canadian and Greek scholars in joint research projects relating to Greek heritage. One such project is the Canada-Greece joint archaeological excavation site in Ancient Argilos in Halkidiki. IMMIGRATION: Canada has encouraged young Greeks to study and work in Canada. Could you please elaborate on how young Greeks can hone their professional skills in Canada? Canada and our current government are committed to helping young people reach their full potential and become more engaged in issues that concern their future. Prime Minister Trudeau is also Minister for Youth, has a youth advisory council and, launched Canada’s first-ever youth policy during the Canada Youth Summit a month ago. We value that. But in terms of the opportunities, young people have a propensity for technology, and there’s a lot of work going on in Canada in things like artificial intelligence and block chain technologies, where young people can hone those skills. We have close relationships between our universities and the private sector, which allows for such synergies. Another sector rich with opportunities is Greece’s very important tourism and hospitality industry. There are linkages, I believe, with food sectors in Canada. As a large country that’s close to nature, we have very

healthy agriculture and seafood industries. So what lessons can Greece pick from Canada, in terms of tourism? And especially in terms of the return to nature, back to basics kind of tourism that Canada is so good at, and Greece is only just beginning to embrace?

I don’t know that there are lessons that we have to teach, so much as experiences to share. I think in the globalized world of today, we see that we have increasingly more in common with other countries, and tourism is certainly one of the areas that we have in common with Greece. INCLUSION: You’ve been extremely active in supporting Athens Pride and LGBTQ rights in Greece. What shocks you or encourages you with reference to gay rights in Greece? A lot has changed, and I’ve seen changes in my lifetime in Canada and in Europe. I think one thing that Greece could perhaps draw a lesson from Canada is in the visibility of role models. In Canada, we have openly gay and lesbian athletes, politicians, business people… and I think it’s important not only for the LGBT community, but for all of society to have positive role models. I think that it’s important for Greek men to speak out in favor of gender equality, for example. It’s important for Greek men and women to challenge gender stereotypes, with respect to the kind of work that’s done in the home, in the trades, in parliament, in city councils… and the value that’s attached to that work. It’s social change, and it takes time… but the benefit is that once it happens, it’s powerful. What is your message going to be at Athens Pride? I think that the message of visibility is an important one. YOU AND GREECE: You mentioned the IMMIGREC project that traces the history of Greek immigration to Canada. Immigration has been a defining electoral issue both in Europe and North America, especially in the light of the recent refugee crisis and the polarization of political parties. Do you think the project serves to highlight the human stories behind the movement of people? IMMIGREC is a four-university partnership, three Canadian and one in Greece, funded by the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, for the recording of Greek immigration to Canada coast to coast. The first part of the project involved the collection of data, completed six months ago. The research team is now finalizing an electronic archive of the data, planning a virtual museum, and hopefully down the road a documentary. The launch has just taken place in Canada. There should be a launch in Greece in the fall to recognize the partnership between Greek and Canadian universities. But it’s worth drawing out the theme of immigration. You know, we talked about those 270,000 Greek-Canadians… there are stories of migration to Canada and return, so it’s been in both directions. But Canada and Greece, through recent events, have also hosted other waves of refugees and migrants, and that’s another thing that I think we have in common, perhaps in different circumstances. We both, in different ways, demonstrate compassion for people and groups around the world. What is it that first struck you about Greece? In addition to the deep cultural roots, the warmth of the people is very striking. And I think all diplomats, guests and visitors feel that on arrival; that they are in a special place with warm, open, welcoming people.

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CETA is a comprehensive bilateral economic and trade agreement that Canada recently signed with the EU. Could you elaborate a bit on that? It is probably the most progressive trade agreement in the world today, because I think Canada and the European Union both share progressive values, and we put a high value on predictability and rules. It helps both of our economies, but it also serves as an example to other countries around the world who are negotiating agreements. It unlocks a great deal of opportunity in a lot of sectors where it might not have existed before, and I think that it’s really up to us now to help businesses to realize that opportunity. And we’re aligned on other goals as well, such as gender equality, alternative energy, and labor rights.

INTERVIEW

Alicia E. Stallings’ name resonates within Athens’ literary community where Greek writers and poets quote her sharp and hybrid verse. Shortlisted for the Pulitzer Prize in Poetry earlier this year, Stallings has been living in Greece for 20 years, where ‘the immediacy of contemporary Athens collides with enduring reflections on motherhood, mythology, politics, and poetry.’ In Like, her latest collection from Farrar, Straus and Giroux, Stallings presents a diverse, earthy, poignant, witty collection of poems that touch on social validation. In conversation with Karine Ancellin. athens insider | 48 |

POETRY

An ode to Greece

You have been living in Athens since 1999, how do you see your home city? Well it’s been a very interesting time to be in Athens. When we arrived in 1999, there was the excitement of Greece entering the Euro and the forthcoming Olympics. There was a feeling of optimism. New metro stations were being built. To go from that to the economic crisis of 2008, and afterwards the refugee situation, it’s just been an interesting and intense time in Athens. It’s never dull. Do you consider going back to the USA? It’s not totally off the books. I originally thought we would be here for two years but the two years became twenty years. We have children and we have built a life here. We still have friends and family in the US and I do travel there to teach at conferences and so on. We like Athens a lot and as long as we are able to stay here, I think we will try to do so. What do you particularly enjoy in Athens? My very favourite thing in Athens is the summer open-air movie theatres. I love seeing a movie under the Acropolis, under the night sky and the moon. I also love the first cemetery of Athens - it’s an interesting place to walk around. One of the nice things about

Athens is you can be somewhere else very quickly, you can go to an island or take a day trip in a short time. It feels to me like a safe city as well as an energetic one. It’s a great place to raise children, though probably not as great to be a teenager in. We have enjoyed living here.

I like the energy of Athens at this time of the year when even if you see the ugliness, there is also this beautiful scent of the bitter oranges that washes over everything else with grace. How does your dual belonging find its way in your poetry, or do you feel it stays private and language informs the essence of your poems? Well my life in Athens does get into the poems and my life in Greek as well as in English gets into the poems, in certain ways, not just subject matter but word choices. I do have poems about Athens. I think it’s partly the sights you see and the sounds and the metaphors that spring out of your everyday life. One of the things I realized is that you always have access to your childhood and your former life, as well as your current life, so they do seem to both be in existence in a lot of the poems. You started in high school with a poem that was published. Was that when your calling for poetry was born? I wanted to be a writer since grade school. I have always written poems and publishing poems in High school was a confirmation. Maybe I thought I would also write novels and so on, which didn’t happen. I think a kind of athens insider | 49 |

commitment to poetry in particular happened in University. I was thinking about what a poet’s life is supposed to be. What stayed with you from your years at Lady Margaret Hall? I wasn’t there for such a long time though it was an extremely intense period of time and I am still fairly close with some of the people I met there. My tutor Richard Jenkyns is very important to me and we are still in touch. I think partly because there were people who took me seriously as a poet even though I was quite young. It was also a time of intense reading and intense immersion in classics, and being taken seriously by people I admired, which was an affirmation. Also around that time I started doing more serious translations. Translation also fed the poetry and the commitment to be a poet fed the translation; they were the same calling as it were. Was your translation of Lucretius a turning point in your work? Getting the commission to do the whole translation of Lucretius, which is over seven thousand lines - and then you realize this is to be a project of several years - and having a contract where I guess you could say you are now a professional translator - that was certainly a turning point, and which maybe freed me up in some ways. You said “the ancients showed me that technique was not the enemy of urgency, but the instrument”. What urgency are you referring to? The urgency of the poem, the passion or the occasion of the poem. There has to be some reason why you feel compelled to write. There is often this idea that form or technique is somehow limiting to emotion or is somehow artificial and somehow preventing people from self-expression, and I realized it was very much a tool of all these things and

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What drew you to the classics in the first place? Is it because you studied in Athens, Georgia or is Greece simply pure serendipity? Well, I started taking some Latin classes out of curiosity and realized that a lot of our English literature had references to older literatures. I eventually got into Greek, though I think it is my interest in poetry that brought me to the classics, and I very much enjoyed how classic classes taught classical poetry - it was not theoretical, it was practical - about scansion and word choice and I found it useful and refreshing.

POETRY

could sharpen how you express yourself and how you understand how you are feeling. For me, form is about giving up some control to the muse, but, at the same time, that kind of technical precision can actually make a poem more powerful rather than less. Are you going to stay with poetry or try your hand at other art forms, like short story or fiction? I have written some fiction in the past and I don’t think that it is the genre for me. I do write a lot criticism and do a fair amount of non-fiction, including what I would I call ‘literary journalism’ describing things unfolding in Greece. My husband, John Psaropoulos, is a journalist, and I’m fairly used to the idea that if something is happening on my doorstep I should be able to go and see what it is and describe it as best as I can. There is a lot more interest in that. People want to hear what things are like on the ground in Athens, so I just branched into that. You've been working with refugee children, what is that like today? I’ve actually just spent the morning at a squat in the center of Athens doing activities with children. There is not that sudden emergency that was there in 2015/16 but it’s chronic. This month has actually been a very bad one for drowning in the Aegean and there are also drownings in the river Evros in the North. I run a poetry workshop with refugee women at the Melissa Network, so it’s become part of my life, and that’s something unexpected.

One thing that has been interesting is that, as is very much the case in Greece, people from Iran, Afghanistan, Syria and Iraq come from cultures where poets are regarded highly as opposed to the Anglo-Saxon world where poets are often viewed as eccentric or odd, and poetry is almost an embarrassment. I haven’t written much verse on this, I’ve written mainly in prose. I’ve done a few poems like epigrams about drownings and some poems about interactions. I’m a little wary

about how to approach such a topic because these are not my stories, obviously, these are things that have happened to other people. At the Melissa network I enjoy watching women write their own stories, and write in the first person. I very much enjoy facilitating this process. Again, it’s a fairly large part of my life so it eventually ends up in the poems. Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda is a sonnet, why embed contemporary verse within classic structures? The sonnet is such a tough flexible little engine. I do write a fair number of sonnets. It’s a wonderful infinite form, it’s about the length of certain kinds of thoughts. One of the things I like about the sonnet is that there is an argument in it, you put forth something in 8 lines and then you have to twist it and come up with something against that in 6 lines, so I think it’s an infinite rewarding form. There is no reason why it should not be contemporary simply because it’s been around a long time. Often what makes something contemporary is not the structure or the form which I would say is almost a platonic eternal kind of form but a matter of using contemporary language, diction and situations. The content and the speech pattern of a poem is often what makes it contemporary rather than the form itself. There is nothing inherently old-fashioned about a sonnet. Do you endorse your association with New Formalism as a poet? I don’t like the term ‘New Formalism’ but I think nobody likes that term. I think partly it’s that “ism” which sounds as if it has an agenda, an axe to grind, or some sort of political thing. The ‘New’ is also problematic because there is nothing new really about what I do. But in terms of certain aspects of New Formalism, I am happy to be in that group, even though I would not call myself a New Formalist - and almost no one who is in New Formalism would call themselves that. There was a sort of poetry battle as it were in the nineties and early two-thousands where there seemed to be more tension between people who worked in rhyme and people who worked with free verse - at least in America. I don’t think there is that much of an issue in the rest of the English-speaking world. I think it was largely a false dichotomy and it is very rare now to see a journal say we will not look at rhyme in poetry. I think people have realized that as long as the poetry is good, it doesn’t matter whether it rhymes or not. Do you write as a woman? Well I don’t think I have much choice about athens insider | 50 |

that! We all write from a perspective that we have, and certainly a lot of my poems are from the position of being a woman. I often take voices of women from the past or write about motherhood or marital spats and it seems quite natural for me to largely take the female viewpoint there. Sonnets have always been gendered, and people tend to enter the sonnet from a gendered perspective and that’s actually part of its tradition. There are some of my poems where it would not be obvious that the writer is a woman and others where that would be the assumption. There are people who contact me, since I publish under my initials, who have assumed I am a man. That somewhat bemuses me because, considering the subject matter, that would not be my obvious conclusion. We have to write from who we are.

One thing I have enjoyed about translation is being someone else, such as being a man from long ago. I certainly think you can write from any position your imagination is able to encompass. Have your previous prizes from the Wilbur Award, the Guggenheim Foundation fellowship and the MacArthur Foundation prizes rooted your words in a specific direction? Prizes are a complicated issue. One of the poets I translated, an eight century BC Greek poet, Hesiod, makes a big deal about a prize he won, so the idea of competition has always been around. All of the Greek plays, for instance, were produced in the context of competitions, so it’s a confirmation to get a prize, especially for a young poet. It’s obviously exciting to get a prize, it makes you feel that people are appreciating your work; it can energize you to go forward. Nonetheless it can also cause doubts. Certainly for prizes that come with money, there is a practical element as it gives you more time. In my case it was buying childcare. For the MacArthur and Guggenheim prizes, it came at a critical point for us as we weren’t sure we could stay here during the financial crisis. The newspaper my husband was editing went under so it was one of the prizes that gave us the courage to stick it out. We knew we would be able pay our bills and one of the first things I did was to rent an office. You cannot

POETRY

Like, by A. E. Stallings (Farrar, Straus and Giroux)

disregard the practical element to the prize that comes with the psychological element. It’s the financial support that is really important. I’ve been lucky and my prizes have come at critical moments. And now what does it feel to be shortlisted for the Pulitzer Prize? Very much of a surprise! I didn’t realize it was going to be announced and I had no idea my book had even been shortlisted. My publisher was excited, and it certainly gives the book a boost of attention. It’s very gratifying. Who are the ancients that speak to you? Hesiod and Lucretius, the poets I translated. Lucretius is very important to me. Virgil’s The Georgics is very important to me. Probably the ancient poem I have spend the most time reading or thinking about is Homer’s Odyssey, which I think is sort of infinite and speaks to everybody. And Contemporary Poets? Some recently deceased poets I admire include Richard Wilbur and Seamus Heaney. Wonderful poets working right now in the US include Rhina Espaillat, Josh Mehigan, Ernie Hilbert, athens insider | 51 |

Ange Mlinko, Paisley Rekdal, and Catherine Tufariello.

Any poet you spend a long time with does end up speaking to you although you also choose them because you share some sort of chemistry. What about poets in Greece? This is always hard off the top of the head - you know you will end up leaving lots of people out. I am certainly a fan of Katerina Anghelaki Rooke, and Kiki Dimoula, and poets closer to my age such as Katerina Iliopoulou, Stamatis Polenakis, Panayotis Ioannidis. And of course older poets such as (especially) Cavafy, Seferis, and Sikelianos. Karine Ancellin is founding member and Director of A Poets’Agora, a bilingual poetry society here in Athens.

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Like, that currency of social media, is a little word with infinite potential; it can be nearly any part of speech. Without it, there is no simile, that engine of the lyric poem, the lyre’s note in the epic. A poem can hardly exist otherwise. In this new collection, her most ambitious to date, A. E. Stallings continues her archeology of the domestic, her odyssey through myth and motherhood in received and invented forms, from sonnets to syllabics. Stallings also eschews the poetry volume’s conventional sections for the arbitrary order of the alphabet. Contemporary Athens itself, a place never dull during the economic and migration crises of recent years, shakes off the dust of history and emerges as a vibrant character. Known for her wry and musical lyric poems, Stallings here explores her themes in greater depth, including the bravura performance Lost and Found, a meditation in ottava rima on a parent’s sublunary dance with daily-ness and time, set in the moon’s Valley of Lost Things.

Unforgettable Summer

CULTURE

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ART

Pop goes the world Argentine artist Marcelo Zabellos, currently exhibiting at the Mamush Gallery, offers an exuberant, colour-drenched commentary on the quotidian.

How much of your art is informed by the aesthetics of the media powerhouses you have worked with - Disney and MTV. ? Although my art incorporates strong elements of a variety of media types such as photography, movies and comics, these media giants have not directly influenced my aesthetic, since I worked with them for a particular purpose and as a member of a collective creative project. My influences are mainly hidden in literature; the power of speech to create dreamlike images and to change reality through imagination and emotion. I am interested in telling a story with my works. There is something so uplifting and mood-altering about the pops of colour in your compositions. Colour to you is... Colour is the ideal element that allows me to interpret the rhythm of the senses and facilitates the expression of the emotions I wish to communicate to the viewer. What is it about women that you find so compelling as to reproduce them repeatedly in your works? It is not necessarily the female form that inspires me to paint, rather the female expression that is full of different interpretations and opens different worlds of ‘reading’ it. I suppose it evokes a certain nostalgia in me because of the way I see and ‘read’ the woman which lends it a more poetic expression.I tap into what I see as the expressive world of women by observing their bodies, pose, and aura that they emit. The appearance of a woman, the way she places her hands, her walk, tells us who she is.

in the quality of people's lives. How would you describe Athens in three words? I would say Epic, Beautiful, Historical. Do you see any similarities at all in the artistic and social outlook of Argentinians and Greeks? On a socio-cultural level, Argentinians are very much like the Greeks. At the artistic level they are different. It would be very challenging to appropriately compare, however, because Argentina is on a continent that does not have such a long history of art as Europe does. Have you travelled around Greece at all - which island would you like to go back to? My first visits to Greece were short-lived, and they did not allow me to visit places other than Athens. The Acropolis and its Museum impressed me most, of course; I was in complete awe. This year, I have already planned to visit several Greek islands like Paros, Mykonos, Santorini and Milos.

You’ve been exhibiting in Athens quite a bit in recent years what brings you to Greece so often? From the outset, what brought me to Greece was my acquaintance with the great Greek sculptor Vassiliki. Not only did she believe in my work, but it was she who introduced me to Mamush Gallery, where I exhibited my first show. My collaboration with Mamush Gallery was on all levels more than impeccable. We have created such strong artistic links that Mamush Gallery has the exclusive representation of my works internationally. I now have strong ties with Athens and the people I have met here over time. Returning back to Argentina, I am bolstered by the inspiration from Greece. Here, art resides naturally

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How would you describe your artistic process? Artistic creation can begin with an image I have already created in my mind, or with an anonymous photo telling me a story. I draw it in black and white, and add acrylic paint to the canvas.

ART

Afternoons in the garden

Undefeated

Melody

Appointment

About You: 1. What hangs on your walls? Amadeo Modigliani and Rene Magritte’s paintings and drawings, posters of the Bauhaus school’s exhibits, as well as photos of historic personalities and artists. 2. What books are you reading currently? Martin Heidegger’s Being and Time , the stories of Jorge Luis Borges, and Fredric Brown’s sci-fi stories. 3. When did you know you wanted to become an artist? When I was eight years old, and I laid my hands on books on Goya, Manet, and Renoir.

4. The biggest influence in your life? And in your art? Film noir and Orson Welles’ films. The artists who have influenced me are André Breton, David Hockney, Carlos Gorriarena and Diego Velazquez. 5. The song currently stuck in your head is.... That's Life by Frank Sinatra. Mamush Gallery, Panagitsas 3, Kifissia Tel. +30 210.623.2900 mamushgallery.com

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fast lane Victoria Hislop champions Greece A Homecoming for Ancient Greek Sandals With 350 global stockists, and an established presence abroad, co-founders Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou finally have brought their brand, Ancient Greek Sandals, home to Kolokotroni street. It is the brand’s first brick and mortar store in a building that once housed a Greek shoe store. Their hand-crafted designer sandals inspired by classical mythology and ancient Greek art, have graced the feet of Hollywood A-listers such as Madonna, Angelina Jolie, Anne Hathaway, Chrissy Teigen and Emma Watson. Slip into their (shoes) sandals where old-world craftsmanship meets contemporary style. ancient-greek-sandals.com

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Arguably Greece’s most ardent literary ambassador, Victoria Hislop sets her latest novel in Greece, this time delving into Greece’s recent turbulent past, tracing Themis’ family saga through the Occupation, Civil War, and the junta. In Those Who Are Loved, a 480-page novel, Victoria Hislop sheds light on the complexity of Greece’s traumatic past and weaves it into the dynamic tale of a woman who is both hero and villain, and her lifelong fight for justice. Themis is part of a family bitterly divided by politics and, as a young woman, her fury with those who have collaborated with the Nazis, drives her to fight for the communists. She is eventually imprisoned on the notorious islands of exile, Makronisos and Trikeri, and has to make a life or death decision. She is proud of having fought, but for the rest of her life is haunted by some of her actions. Forty years after the end of the civil war, she finally achieves catharsis. Those Who Are Loved, published by Headline, 2019. victoriahislop.com

The Acropolis Museum offers a special 10th anniversary gift Consistently voted as one of the best museums in the world, The Acropolis Museum, celebrates its 10-year anniversary on June 20 by adding a new exhibition space. Since its opening, 14.5 million visitors made a stop here. Celebrating its milestone, the museum has now put together an impressive programme of events, starting with a photography exhibition and ending with the unveiling of an excavation that visitors have been able to witness through the courtyard’s glass floor for several years. The new exhibition space showcases an entire excavated neighbourhood of ancient villas, streets, workshops and bathhouses that lies below the museum building. theacropolismuseum.gr

Rita Wilson wants you to look at the Bigger Picture

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The New York Times described her as “gregarious and forthright: a natural entertainer.” Rita Wilson performs at the Summer Nostos Festival with songs from her latest album, Bigger Picture. Wilson’s songs are marked by an intense lyricism and distinct influences from American pop-folk. In this third album, she takes a daring step forward creatively, becoming more personal and confessional than ever before, as she bares her private challenges and talks about them in her lyrics. Every song is a story. Wilson explains that the album’s title track is about “taking stock of who you are and how you got to certain places. As a woman, as a human being, we all consider where we’ve been, where we are, and how we got there.” June 29, at 7.30pm at the Greek National Opera, SNFCC. snfestival.org

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An artists’ hub in Plaka Founded by Cynthia Odier, Flux Laboratory has been nurturing the local arts scene, producing transdisciplinary artistic projects in Athens since 2016, under the auspices of the Swiss Embassy. With its new base at Geronta street in the charming Plaka neighborhood, Flux hopes to nurture a sustainable arts environment for local, emerging creative agencies. The hub at Plaka is dedicated to the development of projects related to the Body, as an expression of social fabric and community, and as an instrument for entrepreneurial initiatives. fluxlaboratory.com

Pavlos, 1930 -2019 Pavlos, who magically transformed seemingly futile slithers of paper to create stunningly beautiful, masterful artworks, passed away in June. Pavlos’ talent shone through in his ability to create objects that surpassed realism as we know it, transforming them into symbols that represented the “idea” of these objects rather than the objects themselves. The intricacy of his work and the complexity of the colours captivated the eye. From large compositions of sweeping, bucolic meadows and oscillating seas to still-life objects such as hamburgers to shirts, socks, ties and fruit bowls, Pavlos focused largely on the use of printed paper to create folds and edges, producing the illusion of movement in his pieces. He even produced a series of works depicting Superheros like Batman and Spiderman. He represented Greece at the Venice Biennale in 1980 and his works are part of collections at MoMA in New York, the Musee d’art Moderne de la Ville and the Centre Pompidou in Paris, the European Parliament in Brussels, the National Gallery of Athens and many more.

Chef Alain Bossé, The Kilted Chef Alain Bossé, also known as the Kilted Chef, will be visiting Athens as part of Canada Day celebrations on July 1. He has travelled the world from kitchens to convention centres sharing his expertise and love for buying and eating local ingredients. With his signature tartan kilt, proud Acadian heritage and undeniable flair for cooking with local, he has earned a reputation as Atlantic Canada’s culinary ambassador. Alain’s philosophy is pretty simple – He loves local ingredients and firmly believes that if you live local, buy local. It’s a message that he’s been spreading around the world and here at home in Atlantic Canada for more than a decade. kiltedchef.ca

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CULTURE

It is always a matter of light A more fitting site for an explorer of the human form and its relation to space would be hard to find. Sophia Hiniadou-Cambanis speaks to Sir Antony Gormley, as he repopulates the sacred island of Delos with iron ‘bodyforms’, restoring a human presence and creating a journey of potential encounters

Connect, 2015. Installation view, SIGHT, at the archaeological site of Delos Island, 2019. Photograph © Oak Taylor Smith | Courtesy NEON; athens insider Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades and the artist. | 60 |

CULTURE

Shift II, 2000. Installation view, SIGHT, at the archaeological site of Delos Island, 2019. Photograph © Oak Taylor Smith Courtesy NEON; Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades and the artist.

“Culture is an art of time. My art has no intrinsic value until you see it. It’s just a whisper in order to make you look more carefully at this splendor. It’s a stimulus. Here you can feel the relationship between the mystical and economical and rethink of the possibility to take back the agora.” Sight, a unique art installation with 29 works by the famous British artist Sir Antony Gormley is the fruit of the collaboration between the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades and NEON Organization on the archaeological site and the Museum of Delos Island. A case of collabathens insider | 61 |

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observe him carefully. Constellations of words and phrases take shape underneath the perfect straw hat, pulled tight over his head. He is one of the most renowned sculptors in the world. An ingenious creator. A thinker. He stands in awe of the greatness of Aegean nature and history, and talks humbly of his sculptures. He feels grateful and privileged to be here. He talks about art. He talks about time. He talks about life.

Reflect, 2017. Installation view, SIGHT, at the archaeological site of Delos Island, 2019. Photograph © Oak Taylor Smith

CULTURE

ÂŠ Oak Taylor Smith

oration between the private and public sector that sets an example to be followed. Discovering Delos again through contemporary art and through the eyes of an inspired artist is breathtaking. Gormley's anthropomorphic iron figures and totems are assimilated into the archeological site without imposing their presence. Iron is chosen wisely as the core material of the planet and the basis for the industrial revolution. A beautiful interaction between the artist, the visitor and the environment. A spiritual art work shown on the sacred isle of Delos, this uninhabited granite rock of great geological and archeological significance. This extraordinary cosmopolitan Hellenistic town in the middle of the Cyclades is a place where no artist has set foot for a thousand years. While climbing up to the highest point of mount Kynthos, we are gazing at the dancing light over the nearby islands. Strolling back down, I take in the outstanding beauty of spring flowerbeds among the holy ruins. At dusk, looking at the magnificent temples and the altars, the theatre and the stadium, the merging classical and contemporary art, I reconsider my world. Contemplation, serenity, hopefulness, light.

Antony Gormley is right. Art is a whisper of history, heard above the noise of time. A tool to mark space and time, to connect with our collective memory and to rethink the future. athens insider | 62 |

TRAVEL

Sounion calling Elena Panayides unveils the myth and magic of Attica's southernmost tip where Poseidon holds sway

THE MYTH Cape Sounion, the ‘Sacred Cape’, as the Ancient Greeks called it, is dedicated to the all-powerful and always salty, God of the Sea, Poseidon. Just 70km from central Athens this mesmerising temple hovers 60m above the sea and gives one a godly perspective. It’s easy to understand exactly why it’s been a sacred spot since 444 BC, with sailors and Ancient Greeks congregating there to offer animal sacrifices and win over the almighty, trident wielding, storm-controlling Poseidon. The forward-looking architect Ictinus ensured the column’s 15 columns could withstand all bad weather and even slimmed down the top of the Doric columns to make them seem even more impressive. Sounion is given a shout-out in many classical myths, including the ‘Odyssey’, where Homer names the sanctuary as the spot where King Menelaus of Sparta buried his helmsman, who died on the job while sailing around the cape. THE MAGIC With 13,500 kms of coastline, it’s no wonder the Greeks revered Poseidon’s power and prowess. 15 of the original 16 columns are just like the Rod Stewart hit, ‘still standing’, with the temple’s sculptures on display at the National Archaeological

Museum of Athens and the Mineralogical Museum of Lavrio; one column can be found the British Museum. Lord Byron was so enamoured with the Sounion Temple, that he chose to commemorate his visit there in 1810, by vandalising a column and sneakily carving his name on its base! THE MANAGEMENT OF YOUR TRIP Go early in the morning to avoid the summer sun’s rays and even more importantly, to conclude your tour in time for a delectable lunch. If you’re not a morning person, the sunsets there are simply spectacular. It’s a 2hr road trip to the temple by taxi or hotel car service. For romantics there is an ultramodern, rigid-inflatable (RIB) 5hr boat excursion to Cape Sounion, the Temple of Poseidon, Gaidouronisi Island and Arsida Cave: ‘Viator’ tours leave Vouliagmeni Marina at 4pm. THE ‘MASA’ (FOOD) Do include a traditional fish taverna in your planning, Lavrion is full of ‘ouzeri’ (traditional ouzo and small bites restaurants.) In the middle of Lavrion’s cental fish is ‘Maria Terlaki,’ an authentic spot specialising in fried fish. ‘Maria’, ‘Syrtaki’ and ‘Elias’ also showcase fresh fish in a low-key, authentic atmosphere.

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SECTION

www.athensinsider.com

Sounion is given a shout-out in many classical myths, including the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Odysseyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, where Homer names the sanctuary as the spot where King Menelaus of Sparta buried his helmsman, who died while sailing around the cape.

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CULTURE

Let's Dance! KALAMATA DANCE FESTIVAL 25th international edition

For ten days in July in the beautiful Messinian town of Kalamata, twenty international dance masters will come together to showcase multidisciplinary dance performances â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from contemporary circus to street dance. This year marks the 25th Anniversary of the festival which has continued to celebrate artists who explore the limits of dance and the human body. With internationally acclaimed artists such as Akram Khan and BĂŠla Tarr, who rarely visits Greece, and important Greek performers, many different contemporary dance styles, and a rich educational programme, the 25th Kalamata International Dance Festival, will be held from July 19 to 28. athens insider | 66 |

WHEN: From July 19 to July 28 WHERE: Kalamata Tickets available at public.gr kalamatadancefestival.gr

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Art

on the Islands

EXHIBITION by KIKI SMITH Slaughterhouse on Hydra

WHAT: The DESTE Foundation’s Project Space at the Slaughterhouse on Hydra island will feature a site-specific exhibition by Kiki Smith. Kiki Smith is a West German-born American artist whose work has addressed the themes of sex, birth and regeneration. Her figurative work of the late 1980s and early 1990s confronted subjects such as AIDS and gender, while recent works have depicted the human condition in relationship to nature.

ROUTES IN MARPISSA WHAT: From August 20 to 22, at Marpissa on Paros, local residents and visitors take part in an original experiential festival. The project was created by a group of visionary young people out of their love for Architecture, Sculpture, Environment and Music showcased in a three-day cultural festival.

WHEN: August 20 – 22 WHERE: Marpissa Village, Paros stimarpissa.gr

WHEN: June 18 to September 30 WHERE: DESTE Foundation Project Space Hydra slaughterhouse, Tel. +30 210.275.8490, deste.gr

DICO BYZANTIOS The Museum of Contemporary Art of the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation, Andros

WHAT: Dico Byzantios. Abstraction and Figuration This retrospective tribute to Dico Byzantios is a due debt of remembrance to the illustrious painter of the diaspora who distinguished himself in the Parisian art scene for over half a century. WHEN: June 30 – September 22 WHERE: Museum of Contemporary Art Andros Island, Leof. Kallirrois Avenue & Amvr. Frantzi Street, Tel. +30 211.101.9000 www.moca-andros.gr athens insider | 68 |

As Athenians migrate to the islands over the summer, so does art. A round-up of this summer's cultural highlights on the isles.

THE PALACE AT 4 A.M. Archaeological Museum of Mykonos

Curated by Iwona Blazwick OBE, Director, Whitechapel Gallery and Elina Kountouri, Director, NEON, this exhibition of contemporary art is inspired by the collection of the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos. It takes its title from an iconic work by Alberto Giacometti. The Palace at 4 a.m. is a small wooden sculpture he created in 1932; like a theatre it features a dramatic encounter between a woman, a bird and a spinal column. Presiding over these protagonists is a mysterious deity. The scene is a palace before sunrise, a time of dreams, ghosts and secret assignations. The exhibition draws on the strange drama of Giacometti's masterpiece to evoke the spirits, rituals and myths that haunt ancient archaeological sites such as Delos. The island’s statues, architectural fragments, vessels and tombstones collected in the museum are attributes of a cosmopolitan citizenry that disappeared two millennia ago. Just as Delos once brought together people from across the ancient world, The Palace at 4 a.m. features a global roster of 13 artists, Lynda Benglis; Haris Epaminonda; Simone Fattal; Petrit Halilaj; Ian Law; Maria Loizidou; Daria Martin; Duro Olowu; Zohra Opoku; Rena Papaspyrou; Stefania Strouza; Barthélémy Toguo; Paloma Varga Weisz.

JANNIS PSYCHOPEDIS Archaeological Museum of Poros and Citronne Gallery

Citronne Gallery opens its summer season with two parallel solo exhibitions by Jannis Psychopedis, with a common thematic Tracks in Time. Jannis Psychopedis refers to these two exhibitions as visual calendars, a regular recording, in which a personal narrative unfolds, but with references to collective memory.The first exhibition by Jannis Psychopedis The Alphabet - Archaic Palimpsosto presented at the Archaeological Museum presents 24 older works and two new works. The 24 older works correspond to the 24 letters of the Greek Alphabet and are, according to the artist, the images of a language that wonders about the lost unity of the present with the past. The two new works refer to a painful part of the present, the refugee drama. WHEN: until September 30 WHERE: Arcahaeological Museum of Poros The second exhibition features 67 works as part of the exhibition Lemongroves - Calendars of a Summer inspired by Kosmas Politis’eponymous book. WHEN: until July 24 WHERE: Citronne Gallery athens insider | 69 |

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WHEN: until October 31 WHERE: Arcahaeological Museum of Mykonos neon.org

01 | Rena Papaspyrou, Small sampler from the Urban Landscape, 2018-19 Wood, plexiglass. 02| Iwona Blazwick, OBE, Director at Whitechapel Gallery with Elina Kountouri, Director ΝΕΟΝ. © Panos Kokkinias

Â©Kosmas Koumianos

FASHION FASHION

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FASHION FASHION

The Ornate Finesse of Dassios’designs Dimitris Dassios’ itinerant sartorial style brings alive the sensual vibrance of an Oriental souk with the meticulous tailoring of an Italian couture house. Swarovski crystals, semiprecious gems, Indian zari, cultivated pearls, intricate 19th century Turkish embroidery, mirrors and tassles – and over-sized flowers – find their way into his yesteryear-inspired, on-trend, bold, colour-soaked creations.

our creations exude a sense of melodrama combined with glamorous insouciance – a study of oversized flowers, vintage beads and shells. Is that an obvious reference to your years in theatre? Theatre, and generally every form of art, has fascinated me since childhood. And my aesthetics have been profoundly influenced by it. What I do know is that I very much like to confuse different time periods and styles, like fabrics, materials and colours, creating something that I believe is very personal and recognizable.

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You’ve had a very distinctive style, weaving a romantic tapestry of your travels and sewing them on to your clothes. Do your clothes tell a story? Do you share it with the wearer or do you let them create their own? The clothes I design unconsciously carry stories of civilizations. It's something that I do not do consciously. I am thrilled to create what I learn from performances, my travels and personal experiences. The fact that my customers are ‘transported’ by my clothes gives me great joy. It is a journey they can interpret as they please.

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FASHION

You’ve just launched your boutique in Mykonos and your clothes are sold in 60 countries! For someone with no formal training in fashion design, do you feel a strong sense of validation, achieving the kind of success few Greek designers have, just 13 years since you launched your brand? My first fashion collection in 2006, was extremely well-received, at several leading fashion venues abroad. It has been a continuing trend since then and I have established the brand worldwide. We have worked with the best fashion retail boutiques abroad. This obviously validates my job and makes me feel good. The new store in Mykonos is a stand-alone Dassios boutique where one can find the complete range of our creations. We wanted a cosmopolitan setting with a Greek identity. That’s why Mykonos was the right choice! What sunshine fashion essentials do you recommend? Straw hat, sandals and a kaftan from our summer collection and you’re beach-ready. Share a recent travel discovery. I just recently travelled to Madrid - I was transported to a world of baroque which has intensely influenced my next winter collection. The combination of baroque and arabesque elements (that is so unique to Spain), combined with folk tradition is also my signature style. Where do you find inspiration? I am inspired by art in all its forms. My greatest joy is the eternal treasure-hunt of seeking out precious fabrics, but also cheap-andcheerful textiles and ethnic paraphernalia from all over the world.

In Athens: Vas. Sofias 35, Kolonaki Tel: +30. 210. 957.3582 In Mykonos: Boutique Dassios, Kalogera 30, Chora Tel: +30 22890.29056

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#SUMMER LOADING LOCATION: Astir Beach PHOTOGRAPHY: Alina Lefa FASHION EDITOR: Eleutheria Domenikou MAKE-UP and HAIR: Cristel Toma MODEL: Ariel Halevy PHOTOGRAPHER'S ASSISTANT: Stefi Grape FASHION EDITOR 'S ASSISTANT: Maya Iliades

White crepe body suit TOM FORD, LINEA PIU White corals & diamond earrings, VILDIRIDIS Black and White leather shoes HARALAS, KALOGIROU CHANEL Sunglasses, ALï¿½S athens insider | 74 |

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Yellow Cotton suit ZADIG & VOLTAIRE, silk scarf worn as top, LOUIS VUITTON Leather bag "twist', LOUIS VUITTON, Sea shell 18K gold earrings, KESSARIS Purple mask sunglasses BALENCIAGA, ALï¿½S

Golden bodysuit VITAMIN A, SALTWATER DIOR sunglasses, ALï¿½S Denim jacket BLUMARINE, LINEA PIU

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Silk red gown, BLUMARINE, LINEA PIU 18K earrings, KESSARIS

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Green silk crepe dress CELINE, LUISA "Happy hearts" pink gold, diamonds and malachite earrings, CHOPARD, KASSIS

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Black dress ALAï¿½A, LUISA Bracelet, MARCO BICEGO Earrings 18K and diamonds, PATSEAS, Sunglasses STELLA MCCARTNEY, KOKKORIS Bracelet in white gold and diamnods. Marakkesh collection, MARCO BICEGO

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Pink Scallop Dress by ALAIA, LUISA Sunglasses DIOR, KOKKORIS Happy Hearts Mother of Pearl Earrings, CHOPARD, KASSIS

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Blue Bikini MELISSA ODABASH, SALTWATER Coral sunglasses PUCCI OCCHIO PAPAVASSILIOU Sauvage Privï¿½ Earrings and ring in 18k gold with malachite and onyx, ROBERTO COIN, PATSEAS

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Silk shirt Burberry and silk pants VALENTINO, LUISA Pink hat, SALTWATER Leather bag, CALLISTA Pucci sunglasses, OCCHIO PAPAVASSILIOU Earrings in 18 K rose gold 18 with diamonds, sapphires and opal, VENETIA VILDIRIDIS

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ENJOY EVERY MOMENT OF YOUR NEW LOOK

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AGORA

Turquoise Earrings in 18k gold and diamonds from the Epirus collection, LALAOUNIS Byzance ring in 18KT yellow gold set with rubies, ZOLOTAS Paradise Ring with tourmalines, MARCO BICEGO Pink-gold ring with diamonds, PATSEAS

FRUITY TEMPTATIONS A fresh, sweet, colourful and juicy fashion menu with images of ripe fruit and plenty, with bright stones and pops of colour for that endless summer feel.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Alina Lefa, STYLING: Eleutheria Domenikou, STYLING ASSISTANT: Maya Abuali

AGORA

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Happy Ocean blue raspberry watch with five moving diamonds, CHOPARD Possession watch in 18K rose gold set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, PIAGET, KASSIS Crazy Hours Color Dreams light pink watch, FRANK MULLER, KASSIS Light blue ‘Happy Hearts’ necklace, CHOPARD Earrings in 18K white gold with diamonds, sapphires and tanzanites, VENETIA VILDIRIDIS

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ARTS & EVENTS

Blue agate earrings with diamond dust, ZERTEO White gold 18k rosary with white agate and diamonds cross, ZERTEO Earrings with diamonds and aquamarine in 18k gold, PATSEAS

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ARTS & EVENTS

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Heritage collection necklace in 18k gold, ZOLOTAS 18k Paradise bracelet with tourmalines, MARCO BICEGO 18K gold handwoven knotted chain with lion's head, Hellenistic collection, LALAOUNIS Aquamarine ring, PATSEAS Nautilus watch in Rose Gold with bezel set with 46 diamonds Patek Philippe, venetia vildiridis

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SUMMER FRESH

ROLEX DAY-DATE 36 18ct yellow gold of 36mm set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds.Dial of turquoise decorative stone,set with 32 diamonds and hour markers Roman VI and IX set with 24 diamonds.Waterproof upto 100 metres.

SUBMARINER DATE 18ct white gold with 40mm diameter. Rotatable Cerachrom 60-minute graduated bezel.Bracelet Oyster with Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension system. Waterproof to 300 metres. www.rolex.com

SKY-DWELLER Oystersteel and yellow gold with 42 diameter.Rotatable Rolex Ring Command bezel.24-hour display function.Waterproof upto 100 metres.

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ARTS & EVENTS

Apriati combines minimalism with elegance and offers best-selling jewellery pieces, from collections such as “7cords” and its best-selling stackable diamond rings. With limited edition jewellery, handcrafted rings and bracelets, as well as one-off designer pieces, all characterized by innovative and distinctive designs in gold, brilliant cut diamonds and other precious stones, Apriati creates a unique, high-end, deluxe look for both women and men. Its perfect craftsmanship is fast being discovered all over the world, as its designs can now be found in Apriati’s boutiques on Patriarchou Ioakeim Street in Kolonaki and on 3, Stadiou & Voukourestiou Street in Athens, at boutiques in Paris, London, New York as well as on Mykonos and Spetses. • Shop On Line: www.apriati.com

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CREATIVE JUICES

CITY LIFE

My Greek Summer! Four creative Athenians on their fave season & their sunny secrets

Christiana Darmi, Communications Specialist What do you do: Communications consultant and an avid foodie, Christiana has an expertise in food & beverages, hotels, spa and restaurants. With a holiday house in Tinos Island, Christiana loves to spend her summers consumed in books, or sailing in the Aegean. Summer in Athens to you is: Unimaginable without pistachio ice cream, a coffee at the Cycladic Café and a movie at the open-air cinema! Your insider secrets: Kostarelos for vanilla & yoghurt ice cream, Zachos for souvlaki, and Birdman, a Japanese pub for some tasty yakitori.

Dimitris Desyllas, Musician What do you do: I’m a Jack of all trades in some ways, but when it comes to music, having been a principal timpanist, a percussion soloist, a composer, professor and an artistic director. Summer in Athens to you is: Cooking Corfian Rooster Pastitsada for my family, coffee at the Benaki Museum Café, and of course, taking in Athenian art from the Ancient sites to contemporary galleries and open cinemas. Your insider secrets: It’s all about food. Head to Blue Pine at Kifissia or Spiros and Vassilis at Kolonaki for French cuisine that will transport you to more elegant times. But Varoulko Seaside is richest in charm – that is, if you’re looking for Greek seafood, garnished with a Michelin crown.

Iacopo Capone Doumas, Surf Board Designer What do you do: Designer of contemporary art & design surfboards. I created Dear Ride to combine the modern spirit of surf culture and contemporary lifestyle, from a deep passion for the love of the sea and design. I hope my conceptions forge the synergy between the mystique of the ocean and the art of design, the sacred bond between the rider and the ocean. Summer in Athens to you is: HOME - whatever that includes, which is everything! Your insider secrets: Krabo at Kavouri for food, chill and drinks. Island for a real night out especially the Sunday sunset parties La Luz ! Varkiza for windsurfing and Waffle House in Vouliagmeni for sunset pick-me-ups! An interesting place to find good art is Technohoros in Acropolis. Also, plenty of rooftops are open in summer in downtown where you can enjoy Athens by night with a view! Last, but not least, take in a performance at Herod Atticus.

Christina Skouloudi Product Designer What do you do: An industrial designer, (my products retail at the Benaki Museum and at Mon Coin), but I describe myself as a city monk with a passion for exploring Athens and an obsession with materials, form, and a cult for authenticity. Summer in Athens to you is: Summer cinema, good quality Greek Raki, a minty summer salad, and evening walks filled with summer smells and sounds. Your insider secrets: The Botanical Garden. Take a snack basket, so you can have a picnic under the thick shade of a chestnut or mulberry tree.

CITY LIFE

FOMO No More & make the most of your stay Once you’ve taken the mandatory selfie at the Acropolis and dined on that beautifully greasy souvlaki in Plaka with the swarms of desperate cats playing footsie with you for a morsel of leftover meat; you might then wonder what you need to tick off your must-do list. Wonder no more…

2 STYLISH SIPS ON THE ROOF

Athens boasts rooftop bars that compete for killer views with a drinks list to match… Check out athensinsider.com for a list of rooftop bars with striking sights and stylish sips.

LOVE BY THE KILO Dayside check out the ‘laiki agora’ which translates to people’s market and is a vital Greek weekly shopping tradition. For the freshest seasonal fruits, vegetables and plants and an impromptu lesson in Greek politics or philosophy.

POPCORN-LACED NIGHTS UNDER THE STARS Summer kicks off in May when one can sit under a balmy and starry sky, on chairs wedged between the derrieres of crumbling apartment buildings in a ‘therino’ outdoor cinema. The ambience, and décor is frozen in all its ‘50s and ‘60s glory, making the whole experience wonderfully retro. The iconic downtown Athens movie theatres such as Cine Paris, Dexameni, Thission and Aegli throw all the classic cinema rules out the non-existent window. You can drink, eat, smoke, gaze at the night sky and no one will bother you. The Athens Open Air Festival runs its popcorn laced nights until August 28. athens insider | 92 |

CITY LIFE

MASTERING THE MOUSSAKA

TAKE IN A SHOW AT AN EPIC VENUE There’s a great line-up as always at the landmark Herodion of Atticus theatre. Acts as varied as Florence and the Machine, Andrea Boccelli, and John Cleese will be performing under the stars in this most ancient of theatres.

In Athens, at Yoleni’s Greek Gastronomy Center beyond the great deli counter you can explore the secrets of Greek traditional cuisine and hospitality, thanks to their cooking classes. For alternative experiences such as a Greek cooking class or a foodie tour of the city, check out dopios.gr where any request you have can be fulfilled and guided by a local. On the islands, check out TV star Diane Kochilas’ celebrated Ikarian cooking lessons at dianekochilas.com

BEACH IT! You don’t need to island it to experience lazy days on the beach with sandside service. With beach clubs dotting the southern suburbs, head to the coast for sandy bliss.

6 FULL MOON FIESTAS

Make your holiday one where you make a difference. Join the green generation and initiatives such as ‘Clean Blue Paros’ launched by Common Seas, the Municipality of Paros island and WATT to support the island in becoming the first plastic-waste free Mediterranean island. Every year in Greece alone, 666 million plastic water bottles and an estimated 900 million plastic straws are consumed.

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BE AN ECO-WARRIOR

A low-hanging full moon packs in more romance and intrigue to your summer nights. ideal for close encounters of the celestial kind as the Parthenon and the Temple of Poseidon remain open to the public until midnight. As do most museums with late opening hours and special events.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

Helios: sun-kissed flavours from the Americas Helios ties in the spectacularly rich and varied cuisine of Latin-America at Four Seasons Astir Palace with a view that spills beyond its olive-lined pools to the Saronic Gulf.

hen you have a cuisine inspired by an interesting geography - from the Andean peaks to the Amazonian rainforest and the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, providing chefs with an unrivalled natural pantry, expect a full-throttle Latin fiesta on your plate! A melting pot of Ibero-American accents, Helios brilliantly marries sweet chunks of plantains and mango with raw fish marinated in lime juice, onions, coriander and jalapeno. The guacamole here is rich, creamy, fresh, tangy and really hits the spot – you’ll be ordering seconds, in which case we recommend that you claim to be in the know by pronouncing it the Spanish way as ‘wakamole’. The Restaurant Manager here, George Kamaras, who earned his stripes at Gordon Ramsay’s temple of fine dining Savoy Grill, suggests Amazonian staples, dripping with unexpected layers of flavour, such as the Nikkei Tiradito – sea bass with truffle ponzu, elevated with the berry-like smoky flavour of Peruvian chilli, Aji Panca. Revel in the subtle freshness of ceviche, tinged with just the right doses of piquancy and

zest or try the Crispy Pork Bao, served with yucca and plantain for an explosive burst of flavours. The bar at Helios celebrates a continent that takes its cocktails seriously. When it comes to Latin-inspired concoctions, bartenders can really flex their mixology chops. In between slinging rums, tequilas, cachacas, piscos and coconut brandys to experimenting with exotic flavours of agave and hibiscus, the drinks here are a playful, bold take on classics. We’d highly recommend Purple Rain with Rum, Hibiscus and Cinnamon and the Smoky Margarita, a twist on the classic version with tequila, mezcal and agave. Designed by K-Studio, with deep, white sofas to recline into by the pool, it is easy to understand Helios’ inspiring appeal. Swing to Latin rhythms on Fridays with the hottest salsa band in town, Friday Pulse from 9pm to11pm. Helios, Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel. Tel: 210. 890.1000

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Italian cuisine imbued with passion

comes equipped with its own passport â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a guide to the best Italian produce by region. Spilling on to the generous terrace with sweeping views of the Saronic Gulf is the spritzeria, devoted to that glorious, light-hearted Italian summer ritual of aperitifs. Nothing spells summer like nursing a Watermelon Spritz while watching yachts cruise by in the distance.

or Chef Roberto Cannata at Mercato, everything flows from the beautifully basic tenet that Italian food is about enhancing good ingredients to their peak. At the new Italian trattoria at Four Seasons Astir Palace, he brings his Tuscan upbringing to the fore as he embarks on a culinary journey to the Italian countryside, meticulously culling the freshest ingredients from trusted artisanal producers. The restaurant is itself a large, inviting space. The deli counter, displaying the prized produce curated by the chef, is an enticing corner that introduces to a whole new world of Italian gastronomy, it even

With vaulted ceilings, rich woods, mosaics and dinner booths, designer Martin Brudnizki lends Mercato an air of a sensual, modernist Italian film. Start with antipasti that hark back to the simple, timeless flavours of Southern Italy, a hearty Melanzane Parmigiana or the refined subtlety of Carpaccio di Manzo. Follow it up with a classic Spaghetti Carbonara or the melt-in-the-mouth goodness of a Ravioli Burrata alla Melanzane. Make room for a dessert trolley laden with refreshing home-made gelatos and sorbets in surprising flavours to Italian standards such as tiramisu and cannoli. Gear up for a gastronomic fiesta year-round as Mercato showcases Italy's rich, regional culinary diversity through a series of Food and Wine festivals. A carb-filled pizza fest with chefs from other Four Seasons competing with Chef Cannata is also on the cards. Relive the dolce vita of yesteryears on this iconic property with authentic Italian fare, joyous conviviality, premium Italian wines and spirits paired with spectacular sunsets and sea-views. Mercato, Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel. Tel: 210. 890.1000

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Mercato brings alive the vibrance of an Italian market after which it is named. There is generosity, tradition and pride in ample display at this waterfront Italian trattoria at Four Seasons Astir Palace.

If Italian translates as pizza, at least for younger guests, Mercato doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint. Made in the traditional Neapolitan pizza style in the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outdoor oven, anointed with extra virgin olive oil and then cut with a rustic pizza wheel, Mercato also offers alternatives to suit every regimen, with gluten-free options.

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Nobusan’s Raw Appeal Nobu’s legendary black cod with miso sauce is worshipped by Brad Pitt and Bill Clinton, while his empire of high-end Japanese restaurants, co-owned by Robert de Niro, stretches from Los Angeles to Hong Kong, London, Mykonos and, Athens. Charming, self-effacing and exuberant, he will be back in Athens from June 28 to July 2 as part of the annual Nobu Food Festival. What makes Matsuhisa Athens unique among all the restaurants in your empire? Most of my restaurants are in the cities and don’t have views. This has nice views of the sea and a big terrace outside – I’d like to see in the summer how crowded it will be. The customers look like high society, very sophisticated; beautiful ladies, and they are all dressed up, even the young ones. Your cuisine marries traditional Japanese dishes with South American elements, picked up during your years in Peru. Will you also be incorporating Greek ingredients? We already serve a ceviche with feta cheese, cucumber and tomato – like a Greek salad – with my signature sauce. And we use olive oil with yuzu (Japanese citrus juice) on the white fish with dried miso. What’s your own favourite dish? Tiradito sashimi – white fish with Peruvian chilli paste, sea salt and

yuzu. It’s very fresh, very simple and clean, but high quality. Greek food is almost like this: it’s simple but good. Sometimes very complicated food looks good, very interesting, but it doesn’t taste good. What do you like to eat in Greece? I love Greek salad and grilled fish. In Mykonos, at the taverna at Agios Sostis, my favourite is grilled pork chops with salad of caper and other leaves. You’re famously hard-working, do you ever relax? I love to play golf. I used to play once or twice a week with Kenny G. You’ve had parts in films including Casino, Austin Powers’ Goldmember and Memoirs of a Geisha. How was the experience? Well, the first movie was Casino. Bob [de Niro] called me and said, ‘There’s a part for you, come and audition.’ I was busy, because I was opening my first New York restaurant [1994], but I went to audition. Back to the restaurant, and the casting director called me and said, ‘You got the part,’ and I said, ‘Wait a minute, I haven’t said yes. I’m busy, I have to concentrate on the restaurant.’ He started laughing. Anyway, they arranged everything, and I went to Vegas, for the filming. My first day of filming, I was a little afraid, I didn’t know what to do. I was in the trailer, and Bob sent round a bottle of Champagne with a little card saying, ‘Don’t worry, I’m here’. I still have that card!

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©Studio Reskos

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Varoulko Seaside: C quayside vibes, sublime meals

hef Lefteris Lazarou’s restaurant Varoulko, has borne testimony to his legendary talent and has given immeasurable joy to generations of Greeks and visitors for over 30 years. Perched on Mikrolimano’s waterfront, with views that harken to a more laidback Greece, Varoulko transports you on a culinary journey you simply don’t want to get off. Make sure you accord the time to savour every mouthful of Varoulko’s inventive play on seafood. Indulge in a rewarding lunch – creamy, voluptuous tarama or squid, like you’ve never tasted before, grilled with fish roe, roasted lettuce and ouzo jellies – a burst of umami-rich flavour that lingers.

Akti Koumoundourou 54, Mikrolimano, Piraeus. Tel: +30 210.522.8400 varoulko.gr varoulkoseaside Parking service available Open Monday to Sunday

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Dine on the quay to fully appreciate Lazarou’s celebrated, evolutionary take on Greek cuisine, deconstructed to create a tantalizing array of tastes and textures. Hit new flavour spots and discover startling, new gustatory experiences. Lazarou was the first chef serving Greek cuisine to be awarded a Michelin star in 2001(and has consistently held it since) and it’s easy to see why. With talented Chef de Cuisine Ioannis Parikos helming the kitchen, a sommelier who nudges you into sampling rare wines from select vineyards, and an experienced team, Varoulko promises a seamless noon to midnight fine dining experience. Make room for desserts though to cement your gourmet experience - try the oh-so-Instagrammable Flower Pot with almond cream, yoghurt mousse, caramelised nectarines, verbena cream and peach sorbet - delicious and entertaining!

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Ouzotini 1 oz. vodka 1 oz. Ouzo 1 oz. Peach Schnapps ½ oz. fresh lime juice chifonade of 5-6 mint leaves Shake with ice and strain into a sugarrimmed martini glass.

Mavrodaphne Cooler 2 oz. Mavrodaphne ½ oz. Crème de Cassis ½ oz. white rum 1 oz. lemon juice 2 oz. cranberry juice

Pictures & texts courtesy of Hellenic Export Promotion Board

Serve over ice in a high-ball glass. Garnish with mint sprig and lemon twist.

Yia

MAS!

Steven Olson creates two Greek cocktail recipes to toast the summer

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ADVERTORIAL

a summer to remember As the Athens Riviera gets a facelift with upscale hotels, Island gets chintzier with culinary fests, an international roster of DJs and guest bartenders lined up for the summer.

Drink Cocktail designer Myrsini crafts a fine drinking experience but shakes it up a bit to let fellow guest bartenders stir and swiggle too.

Eat Award-winning executive chef Nikos Sklira wows your palate with his creative Mediterranean cuisine. On Dine Wednesdays though, he makes room for different guest chefs each week to flaunt their skills. Book ahead to savour Nikos Karathanos, Ghika Xenakis, Dimitris Skarmoutsos, Yannis Parikos, Michalis Nourgolou work their magic.

Be merry Thursdays are reserved for Hawaiian Dream nights with palm trees, parrots, surf boards, much dancing until morning and a fantastic excuse to drink fruity, tropical drinks all night long. On Sundays, Island’s La Luz party, with its wickedly original stage design. is easily the hippest place to cavort in a kaftan. athens insider | 99 |

Gear up for some mighty DJ names to headline at the club. After Lost Frequencies and Roger Sanchez, expect Sunnery James & Ryan Mariano, Merk & Kremont, to spin at the club’s open-air parties. Tale of Us appears at the club on July 28 for an amazing event. Island 27o km Athens-Sounion, Varkiza Reservations: +30.210.965.3563 – 564 +30 6975.265.836 @islandathensriviera fb: Island Athens Riviera

CITY LIFE

Coffee-speak When ordering traditional Greek coffee, the four magic words you need to master are: sketos, if you’d like it without sugar, metrios, with a teaspoon of sugar, glykos is sweet, with 2 teaspoons of sugar or variglykos, cloyingly sweet and strong! If you don’t care to specify, the coffee is usually served moderate to sweet. Kaimaki is the bubbly foam that forms on top of the cup. Briki is the copper (or steel) pot with a long handle used to brew Greek coffee. To order a cold espresso or cappuccino, just say freddo first and then follow it with cappuccino or espresso. For frappes, you will need to specify if you like it with milk me gala or without milk horis gala, or if you’d like it with heavy cream me crema. 5 FUN FACTS ABOUT GREEKS & COFFEE:

Cold Coffee Wars: So long Frappé, Hello Freddo! I f you’ve been to Greece before and still nurse your frappé fantasies, its time you switched like the rest of Greece has, to its new world order and summer obsession, the freddo! When did frappé get dethroned as coffee king? Depends on whom you ask. But all the baristas Athens Insider spoke to claim that only 10 percent of cold coffee orders are for frappés, casting us the you-poor-foreignersstuck-in-your-oh-so-2018 frappé-world look! We take a lengthy caffeine break to examine the short, frothy history of frappé and of the rise of the recently-coronated freddo, to reflect on the profound, long-running history of the coffee-guzzling Greeks. Drink it up! If you hope to understand Greece, learn to do coffee like the Greeks do. Coffee (and by that we mean freddo, whipped espresso on ice.) announces your connection to a lifestyle unique to Greece and connects you to it when you’re away. It is a symbol of idyllic summers in Greece. And coffee drinking is not a rushed affair. In the land of the mar-

athon, coffee-drinking is for ‘heroes of restraint’, who can nurse a coffee for hours on end. Why the rush anyway? Coffee Cup Confessions: When did the coffee war percolate to a street fight and leave the sixty-year old frappé abandoned like day-old dregs? According to Lefteris Varelis, our in-house freddo expert, the conversion started quietly around ten years ago, when Greeks decided to swap instant coffee for freshly roasted and ground beans. TAF led a quiet but effective coffee coup educating Greeks about different roasts and varieties. Fast-forward to 2019 – if you order a frappé, you get outed as ‘uncool, uncultivated and utterly-out-of-touch’. While we’d still like our beloved frappé to have a proper sendoff, apparently coffeecciannados don’t believe in whipping up a dead trend. The King is dead. Long live the King! Mastering the complex glossary of the coffee-ordering ritual can be daunting. But fear not, Insider deciphers the Greek coffee code to make your summer a caffeine-filled one. athens insider | 100 |

1. Clinking coffee cups is a big No-No This country might spend a big chunk of its waking hours gulping down coffee but raising a cup to toast ones fellow coffee-drinkers is considered bad luck. 2. A lot of coffee is gulped here, morning, noon and night The coffee industry in Greece is estimated to be worth close to €990 million, with Greeks consuming almost 66,000 tons of it a year. 3. The Nation that gave the world a taste for Cold Coffee Greeks created the frappé in 1957 but they didn’t stop there: they then invented the freddo cappuccino and the freddo espresso in 1993. 4. Greek Baristas Rule! Greece’s population may number only 11 million, but they’ve produced 10 world champion baristas in the past 15 years. 5. Tasseography anyone? Your future in a cup! Fortune-telling by reading the dregs of a coffee cup has been an entertaining party trick for centuries. You can try some ‘kafemandeia’ on your own by divining these caffeine symbols: apparently the bottom part of the cup represents people, situations, or ideas from your past, the middle part on the sides of the cup represents the present whilst the top part indicates what’s to come!

Gargaretta,

for bites after the sites

Matsuhisa

ts theatrical red interior is not the only striking thing about it – the food and the vibe here is as enticing. Named for a quaint neighbourhood in Koukaki, just a few steps away from the Acropolis, Gargaretta promises light meals and nibbles perfect for a flavour-packed pit-stop after touring the sites or after a show at Herod Atticus. The all-day street bistro is open early until midnight and serves inventive Greek tapas, beautifully plated and presented, generous cheese and sausage platters, a few hearty select mains plus a curated list of wines and cocktails. The menu here is virtually a geography lesson in Greece’s rich culinary diversity with Naxian cheese paired with Cretan pasta and wines from Santorini. For post-theatre meals, we’d particularly recommend Pastrami Madeleine with soulgoun cheese, sun-dried tomato and yo-

ghurt, or a light Niçoise salad with poached salmon or a spicy Indian take on Chicken souvlaki with tinga sauce. Convinced that after a meal you’d be tempted to stock up on their goodies, the shelves here are lined with Cretan delicacies, marmalades, home-made pasta, honey and nuts. It’s a gamble that seems to have paid off, as guests often carry the Greek treats back home. The same goes for the pastry corner, which lets you take away hard-to-resist desserts too! What lends Gargaretta its magnetic charm is the attention to details: fresh-cut flowers, specially-concocted cocktails to put you in the mood, its refined aesthetics and its convivial vibe. Rovertou Galli 1, Athens. Tel: +30 210.922.8713

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Glyfada, the restless coastal capital

Getting your bearings Glyfada is skirted by the leafy Glyfada Golf Club, the only 18-hole golf course in Athens and the old international airport at Ellinikon, which is up for complete redevelopment in an €8 billion project. The American airbase at Ellinikon (which closed in the ’90s) lent Glyfada its unique, ‘Greek-American’ atmosphere which is palpable to this day. Glyfada has always been at the heart of Athenian summer living, but it carries its laidback summer vibe year-round. The Hellenikon project, which is expected to transform the whopping 1530- acre complex into a new point of reference with a model city, a world-class metropolitan park offering new hotel accommodations, luxury residences, landmarks, extensive green areas, thematic tourist attractions, and cultural and exhibition venues. We suggest you invest, invest, invest! To the North-East and South, is the urban residential sprawl which spreads over to the rocky landscape of Mt Hymettus. To the South are the gentle lapping waters of the Saronic Gulf, five marinas and prime waterfront real estate. athens insider | 102 |

If there’s one thing you can count on about Glyfada – that shiny happy hub of the Athenian Riviera – it’s that nothing ever stands still for long. New favourites emerge. Old ones quietly disappear, often overnight. Glyfada – along with its “frenemy” in the north, Kifissia – is where hot new flavours and trends are rolled-out first; to be road-tested on the Athenian consumerati. Athens Insider taps into the true evolutionary spirit of this cosmopolitan coastal capital. Photos by Giannis Seferos. Contributions by: Anna Roins, Amanda Dardanis, Sudha Nair-Iliades.

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Glyfada is home to Athens' only 18hole golf course, five marinas, and the venue for the €8 billion Hellenikon Project,

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LUISA

The Queen of the Coast Glyfada has always been the bold and brazen counterpart to Kolonaki and Kifissia’s more staid charms, the entry point to the recently minted Athens Riviera with bustling retail by day and a vibrant night-life by dusk. A recent overhaul to its roads and pedestrian walkways promises a more shopper-friendly infrastructure and more importantly, a sense of renewed possibility. Its fresh, revitalized looks announce to the world, ‘Hey! No crisis here!’ The Big Squeeze meant SALTWATER

that a lot of mediocre, but also some beloved establishments, closed shop. Glyfada with its complementary mix of characterful fashion, concept boutiques and high-end retail is a fashionable shopping destination with a bit of something for all tastes and budgets.

A braver, millennial consciousness has sunk in with a wave of edgy boutiques, a slew of fashionable good-time cocktail bars and an energetic, upbeat patina that’s pitched somewhere between SoHo Village, Little Italy and L.A. Luxe. Where to shop The heart of Glyfada’s diverse and vibrant shopping district runs along Metaxa Avenue and Grigoriou Lambraki Street and spreads throughout the outer laneways. There’s a spate of upscale retail stores opening, and it’s rare to see a shuttered shop window today, unless it has a large red banner spread across it, announcing, ‘Opening Soon!’

Designer Threads and Jewellery At their newly opened boutique at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel (Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni), sate your cravings for opulent, decadent and lavish avant-garde pieces with a choice of over 30 designer brands at Luisa (Jimmy Choo, Jacquemus, Celine…need we say more?) The window displays change almost daily, and the on-the-ball staff redefine what it means to create a ‘luxury’ customer experience. If their Instagram feed is anything to go by, we know you'll soon be falling for their fashion-forward beach picks too. For primped-up resort-wear that cause a ruffle, sunshine essentials and swimwear that flatter, look no further than Saltwater. Marie Zacharaki, who launched Saltwater in the late 90s earned her fashion pedigree at the Domus Academy in Milan, studying under Gianfranco Ferré and Diego Della Valle of Tod’s, but it was her six-year stint working with Jean-Paul Gaultier that really honed her fashion instincts. Saltwater stocks all the top-of-the-line brands and Marie’s trained eye in scouting fresh talent have paid dividends! Take your pick from Melissa Odabash, Vitamin A or Stella McCartney.

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All Day Cafe Bar Restaurant Blends at Nymfon Square, in Glygada, combining in its architecture the urban aesthetics with natural elements, the modern interior design with artworks, succeeds in creating a patchwork of unique experiences by “blending” senses.

A lovely place in a perfect location! Located in Marina Vouliagmenis, Moorings Café | Bar | Restaurant stands with its elegant and discreet style as the most popular meeting point of Southern suburbs. Fully renovated, is the ideal place to enjoy daily a coffee, meal, dinner or cocktail from early in the morning until late in the evening. Combining exceptionally the panoramic view of Vouliagmenis natural landscape and the glamorous environment of the yachts, Moorings offers its guests a feeling of both calmness and relaxation.

Marina Vouliagmeni, 16671 Vouliagmeni, T 2109670659, T 2108961310, info@moorings.gr, moorings.gr athens insider | 105 |

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19 Phoebis & Laodikis, 16674 Glyfada, Attica, Greece, T +30 211-1821711

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ZERTEO

In Glyfada, our favourite Glyfada go-to for that “something special” is Zerteo Jewelry. The creation of Athenian brothers Zerar and Teo, whose sleek and trendy designs have amassed an urban sophisticate fan-base of all ages, ZerTeo (Kyprou 78) is jewellery to fall seriously in lust with. Just like Rita Ora did. The pop star appeared on the cover of Harpers Bazaar proudly sporting her own Zerteo evil eye “mati” bracelet. Snag yours and other equally desirable, easy-to-sport jewellery pieces to make a bold style statement this summer. Follow them on instagram.com/zerteojewelrymen A Glyfada institution for the past eight years, Giorgia P (named after its intrepid entrepreneur Georgia Papachristou), stocks all your summer essentials from kaftans, cotton and linen dresses plus flattering swimwear by up-and-coming Greek designers. The Milan-style Ensayar (Kyprou 55), one of the oldest boutiques in the area, houses upmarket brands like Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana and Paula Ka. Meanwhile Enny Monaco (Laodikis 41), the main supplier of Christian Louboutin red-soled shoes in Greece boasts a meticulously curated collection of day-and evening wear by over 55 designers including our fave ones: Carolina Herrera, Balmain, Alaia and Victoria Beckham. Elevate your holiday game at Soho-Soho (Kyprou 70) with gravity-defying heels or chic sliders by Ancient Greek Sandals to complete your goddess look. Soho-Soho also stocks Theory, Marni, Giambiattista Valli, Jason Wu and Alexander Wang. Beloved of celebrities, Zilly (Kyprou 51) occupies pole position among the slew of architecturally-designed, mood-lit, high-end boutiques that colonise this stretch of Glyfada’s bustling Kyprou. With a label-stable including Denim x (Alexander Wang), Marc by Marc Jacobs, Alice & Olivia, Isabel Marant, DVF and Helmut Lang, this is statement dressing at its loudest. Boutique 52 and Boutique 55 (Kyprou 52 and 55 respectively) for slinky urban leisure wear with a “mix and match” philosophy that promotes up-and-coming Greek designers and international brands. Another Glyfada institution A La Mode (Grigoriou Lambraki 22) has been catering to fashionistas with a penchant for all things Miu Miu. If you like cutting-edge clothes with heightened flirtiness, Zadig & Voltaire (Kyprou 64) is your temple and of course, there is always Juicy Couture (Grigoriou Lambraki 16) for the sequin-shimmer-velvet set.

GIORGIA P.

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GIORGIA P.

PANAIDIS

KALOGIROU

Eye-conic brands Whether you’re in the market for bedazzled lenseless glasses or vintage-inspired chunky frames, aviators or retro-geometrics in every hue, stylish eyewear fans can get their fill of designer brands in Glyfada. Up your style quotient at Panaidis (Artemidos 2)with Chopard (yes, they’re into eyewear too!), Mikita, Chanel and a whole range of futuristic, attention-drawing shades. Panaidis also crafts bespoke, handmade sunglasses in wood, leather or even fitted in with gemstones, for a bit of extra bling. At Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel (Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni), the Panaides chain operates the eyewear boutique Alós. This is a candy store for grown-ups that stocks statement sunglasses that will definitely elevate your summer.

MASSIMO DUTTI

Foot fetish Style your feet with fancy Ferragamo flats to classic courts and statement Alexander McQueen sandals at Kalogirou (Metaxa 18). Snag a Prada or Michael Kors clutch while you’re at it. Browse for some on-trend brands and affordable Nine-West or DKNY shoes at Haralas (Kyprou 72).

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A family-run multi-brand luxury eyewear boutique whose shelves are lined with everything from from artistic, eye-catching eyewear to simple, elegant styles. Kokkoris Eyewear (Plateia Esperidon), has a loyal following among locals and stocks classic Ray Bans to the latest from Tom Ford, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.

High Street shopping Accessorize (24 Metaxa Street) is great stop to doll up little princesses. Spanish chain Zara (Metaxa 36) is right across Swedish apparel rival H & M (Metaxa 41) for basics and accessories, Massimo Dutti (Lazaraki 2) for affordable office wear, MAC cosmetics (Metaxa 26) and Jo Malone (Metaxa 35) for make-up essentials and perfumes. Hondos Centre the sprawling department store right across the Aghios Constantinos church, is a labyrinthine cathedral for the beautyconscious. Peruse its five floors for sun-tan lotions to water-proof cosmetics, hair-care products and summer-sprays of every conceivable brand.

At Occhio Papavassiliou, eyewear is not an embarassing necessity, it is a fashion choice. For a selection of Moncler, Guess, Gant, runway-favourite Pucci and more, head to Occhio Papavassiliou (Metaxa 34). Friendly staff who gently coax you into picking the right eyewear accessory and also offer optometry services.

T H E N E W C O L L A B O R AT I O N O F T H E I TA L I A N B R A S S E R I E V I T T O R I A G AT I W I L L C R E AT E A B U Z Z ! The professionalism and creativity of two popular and well established chefs, Nikos Karathanos – holder of 2 Michelin stars and George Papakostas – restaurateur and chef-owner of Vittoria Gati, have us drooling with expectation. Especially now, at the beginning of summer, we expect to witness the best gastronomic experience in the South suburbs. Through their modern perspective and experience, the two chefs will be recreating dishes of the famous CASA DI PASTA, which opened in the 90s by George Papakostas’s father, promising to satisfy even the toughest of critics! For your convenience, you are advised to book in advance. NYMFON SQUARE 1, G LY F A D A , 1 6 6 74 T: 2 1 0 8 9 4 4 4 9 1

V I T T O R I A G AT I . G R

/ V I T T O R I A G AT I

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Where to eat Pere Ubu (Kyprou 74) Rolling with the times, this fine-dining establishment has split in half to re-invent itself as a Night and Day experience. Its cool design is a draw as is its inviting 3600 all-day dining proposition. Pere is now a Gourmet Burger Bar/ Restaurant by night, while Ubu next door offers “Pure Food” replete with healthy breakfasts, brunches, vegan fare and the like during the day. Its upscale menu and inspiring cocktails have earned it a loyal following as is amply evident by the night-owls who pay their daily pilgrimage here. The thumping nightly party scene, and we do mean thumping, is what makes Pere one of the few bars where you’ll see Greeks letting their hair down and dancing it up. The festive mood usually makes up for the lack of elbow room. PERE UBU

Sea Spice (Kyprou 74) Walking into Sea Spice is like getting aboard a luxury liner. Shaped like a sleek, glamorous yacht with a staircase that looks like a giant cinematic reel, this is clearly the new People-Watching Headquarters of Glyfada. Sea Spice, Pere Ubu’s sister establishment, has just the right degree of fuss and fusion to elevate the senses without destroying the soul of Greek seafood. Its bar alone with its veined marble-top should attract barflies, but the inventive dishes here and its catchy Greek anthems make it a popular local favourite with seafood afficioandos and Southsiders who want to party until the wee hours. SEA SPICE

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BLENDS

Blends (Fivis 19) Part of the wave of enthusiastic, post-financial-crisis upscale allday café-bar-restaurants, this sprawling space spread across several floors, oozing flamboyant Miami-esque appeal. It comes equipped with a private cigar lounge, doubles up as an art gallery, serves an interesting mix of dishes to cater to eclectic tastes, and has a killer bar to boot. A giant olive tree sprouts in the middle of its sun-lit atrium, making Blends as much a winter destination as a summer one. Vittoria Gati (Plateia Nymphon) When George Papakostas launched Burger Joint bang in the midst of Greece’s excruciating crisis in 2011, you could tell he was having fun, as the cheeky tagline was a tantalizing play on the initials, BJ. Fast-forward to 2018, and Vittoria Gati, his Italian venture, located right next to the flagship Burger Joint promises the real deal. More New-York Italian than Napolitan, the dishes are lighter, more playful but with the unmistakable smell and feel of Italy. The décor, by Desani, in muted rose quartz and teal is inviting. And as one would expect, the food doesn’t disappoint either. VITTORIA GATI

Spiti (Lazaraki 12) for scrumptious well-made portions of fusion Mediterranean food featuring pasta, meats and salad. Affordable and stylish new grillhouses such as Lemoni and Moouu Quality Meats, are rapidly reinventing the straight-from-central-casting Greek taverna. Feedel (on the corner of Kiprou and Zerva 24) for contemporary Greek cuisine with a relaxed, inner-city style. Divan (Zisimopoulou 9) for delicious mezze plates from Lebanon, Persia and Turkey. El Catrin Cocina Latina (Fivis 15) a full and eclectic Mexican menu including Tacos, Burritos, Quesadillas and Fajitas. Pasiphae (Lazaraki 63), an excellent Cretan restaurant where if you’re lucky, you might hear a Mantinada rhyming couplet from an amorous waiter. Silar Dining Couture (Artemidos 3), fine dining featuring seafood, beef and winged-game. There is a pairing menu which is always fun. For eggs benedict and coffee head to Soleto (Laodikis 33) or Estrella (Nimfon Square) for breakfast pizza with avocado, feta cheese cream, chilli Sriracha and two fried eggs. For a swish dining experience, we'd recommend Ark (Grigorious Labrakis 2) by the water, look no further. Balux Pool Seaside (Poseidonos Avenue 58) for reggae and cocktails on the sand, OPUS (Pandoras 9) where Greek singer Antonis Remos is a regular, is perfect for coffee, a delicious meal, or a late-night dance. Paul (Kyprou 68), French bakery for post-shopping quiche and tart pit-stops. Carpo (Grigoriou Lambraki 20) for freshly ground coffee and to stock up on chocolates and nuts Holy Spirit (Laodikis 41) for great cocktails and guilt-free, low cal Elderflower concoctions. Oh Mama! (Kyprou 48)for mouth-watering breakfasts and over-generous cocktails! Pecatti di Gola (Kyprou 50) for authentic trattoria fare, Cucina Italiana a Mano super-friendly, simple Italian cuisine. Kazoku Sushik (Kyprou 59) offers the full flotilla of standard sushi bar fixtures that Greeks have acquired a taste for, in a sleek black and bamboo space. Amigos (Kyprou 65) for a slice of downtown Rio during Carnival head here on Thursdays for a Live Salsa Night - a merry riot that must be experienced at least once. Casa di Giorgino (Kyprou 30-32) for boisterous family lunches and generous portions of Italian comfort food, Vinarte (Maraggou 18), for wine, art, music and refined cuisine.

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From classic spots you know and love to the Athenian Coast’s trailblazers, here is our compilation of dining options in Athens’ preferred summering destination, Vouliagmeni. They may be good-value-for-money, a reliable source of fun, or temples of fine dining – but they all define and capture Vouliagmeni’s classy spirit and island-in-the-city vibe.

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Vouliagmeni’s best restaurants right now

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Mercato

Pelagos Restaurant Helios

Taverna 37

he launch of Four Seasons Astir Palace doesn’t just raise Vouliagmeni’s glam quotient, it translates as elevated dining options with world-class chefs. With four new restaurants, two all-day café lounges, a cigar lounge and Matsuhisa on its grounds, we’re spoilt for choice! First off, Mercato makes up for a much-needed Italian trattoria in the Southern suburbs with wholesome Tuscan cuisine on the waterfront. There is something soul-warming about a carb-filled plate of pasta, cheese and cured meats and Chef Roberto Cannato knows exactly how to whisk your senses away with a unique take on comfort food. A spritzeria for your summer quaffs, a deli counter, an outdoor pizza oven, killer views and a wine list to match – need we say more? At extremely accessible prices too. For a melting pot of Latin American accents head to Helios. Revel in the subtle freshness of ceviche, tinged with just the right doses of piquancy and zest for an explosive burst of flavours, with a view that spills beyond its olive-lined pools to the Saronic Gulf. The bar is a delightful cocktails lab where bartenders flaunt their imaginative, alchemist skills, making full use of the continent’s famed spirits and pantry of exotic fruits to concoct some impressive swigs. Plus salsa

lovers take note, Helios comes alive to the sounds of live Latin music on Friday nights. At Pelagos, Greek for ocean, even before menus are consulted, guests are treated to a ‘kalosorisma’ or a welcome bite – a palate-teaser for what is to follow. From the briny goodness of sea urchins to the subtle flavours of fresh mussels cooked in Santorini’s bone-dry Assyrtiko wine, the menu at Pelagos is unpretentious, yet sophisticated. The robata grill here holds centre stage, so expect a chat with the chef to turn into an impromptu master class. As any food lover will testify, the finesse in presenting a seemingly simple dish lies as much on the quality of the ingredients as on the mastery of cooking techniques, executed with precision. Taverna 37 perched on the water, serves a stormy sea of Greek seafood treats and taverna fare with flair. The taramosalata is perfectly buttery and briny, the grilled fish, deboned and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Greek cuisine celebrated here in all its refined simplicity. Nobu’s Matsuhisa at the Four Seasons Hotel Complex with its sublime, refined Japanese-Peruvian cuisine remains a destination of choice for its spectacular setting as for its legendary black cod in miso

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Matsuhisa ©dpoupalos Sardelaki Garbi

Island

that must surely feature on every foodie’s bucket list. For clubbing, celebrity-spotting, all-night parties that rival Mykonos and Ibiza, and meals cooked by a roster of the best chefs in the city, look no further than Island. Island is the definitive beach club: it teeters on the edge of a dazzling bay, on its own little peninsula, on the outskirts of Vouliagmeni, frequented by celebs, models and princes; replete with white loungers, billowing gazebos, potted palms. Wednesday nights throughout the summer are reserved for guest chefs (including Nikos Karathanos of Cookoovaya and Ioannis Parikos of Varoulko Seaside), so make sure you book ahead. La Luz on Sunday nights has now been established as a weekly summer tradition where Island’s flamboyant host Chryssanthos Panas is often spotted in the company of fashion designers, Hollywood A-listers and Greek rockstars. Guests in June included German fashion designer Phillip Plein and the inimitable Jean-Claude Jitrois who has dressed Joan Collins and Cher amongst others in his iconic leather ‘second-skins’. A new addition to Vouliagmeni’s dining scene is Nerõ at the cavernous Vouliagmeni Lake. The Il Barretto team bring their expertise to this most exquisite of settings. Dinner on the teak deck skirting the lake with the illuminated rocks is an experience unlike any other – this is the venue to declare undying love, or at the very least, to make amends for forgotten anniversaries.

In Vouliagmeni, the expansive beach-rimmed bay, lolling in turquoise splendour commands the eye. The sandy stretches that hug the narrow isthmus draw Athenians here on a Sunday to swim, windsurf or sail - or simply to enjoy long lunches of local fish. One of the oldest seafood destinations in Vouliagmeni has been Garbi, which started life as a humble eatery for fishermen in 1924, and fast gained a reputation amongst celebrities and tourists. When the restaurant had to relocate from the current Astir Beach in the late ‘50s, it moved to Kavouri, where it is run today by founder Petros Garbi’s three daughters and their children. With a passion for food and hospitality (the staff here uncannily remember your name and culinary preferences), Garbi attracts not just locals from the southern suburbs, but from all over Athens. At Astir Beach, dining options include waiter service to parasoled sunbeds by Nice n Easy. Dimitris Christoforidis and Chris Athanassiadis bring their organic and healthy-gourmet philosophy southside. The newly launched Astir Beach Bar promises cocktails on the water

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Inventive cuisine Playful, elegant decor, inventive cuisine that is a brilliant play on textures and tastes, and the limpid, turquoise Vouliagmeni Bay just metres away. Lagom tantalisingly intrigues and makes you fall for its sophisticated charms. Poseidonos Avenue 17, Vouliagmeni | Tel: +30 210 9670099 | Opening hours: Wed - Sat 12:00 - 00:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00

Ithaki

Moorings Blue Fish

40forty

and downtempo dance music by DJs on Thursdays and Saturdays. Succumb to the pleasures of day-to-dusk beach-side dining at 40 at Astir Beach. Now in its fourth year, 40 has established itself as the go-to place for accessible, gourmet meals. Start off your day at the beach with an on-trend almond chia pudding drizzled with agave syrup to boost your chi, or good old scrambled eggs for comfort while you watch chiseled beach bods flaunt their stuff. Waiters ply burgers, pizzas, light salads and sashimi to keep you and your family fueled up at your sunbed or at the restaurant. Book ahead to access the restaurant, even after the beach is closed to the public at 8pm. Head Chef Yiannis Markadakis, who also helms the other restaurants of the group (Papillon in Psychico, Dock and 1937 at the Vouliagmeni Nautical Club) crafts a menu that boasts such enticing suggestions as King crab and mango tartare, lobster and Wagyu beef steak, seared to perfection. 1937 is styled as an ouzeri, serving traditional Greek staples and is open until 8 in the evening while Dock is an all-day bar restaurant, open at night for cocktails and dinner on the jetty. Omilos, also at the Nautical Club of Vouliagmeni and En Plo at Vouliagmeni Residents’ Nautical Club NOKB offer a terrific perch to watch young children bounce off water glides or navigate their little Optimists.

Just below En Plo is Blue Fish. Chef George Oikonomidis reworks the magic with which he wooed tourists and locals on Paros and brings his unique brand of Mediterranean-Japanese seafood cuisine to Blue Fish. Its stone walls, white tables and rustic décor sets the tone for an unhurried meal. This is the closest you can get to having a meal on the water and the food here is a delightfully engaging play on textures and flavours. Perfect for pre-or post-swim meals or indeed, in between dips! For fine dining, Ithaki suspended on a cliff above Astir Beach is well worth the splurge for special occasions. The view, the service and the engagingly creative cuisine, beautifully plated, is a winning formula for special occasions. Moorings at the Astir Marina is a good pit stop for coffees, cocktails and gourmet meals with a side-order of yacht-envy. Work out your excesses by strolling along the harbour and taking in some serious eye-candy – no leaky fishing boats here, just gleaming, million-dollar sleek yachts. Krabo, is a beautiful secluded cove equipped with sundecks, cocktails and a sophisticated dining experience. For ouzo and mezes, Sardellaki, has established itself as a great value-for-money neo-taverna. Only glitch: they follow a strict no-reservations policy, so you cannot book ahead.

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Innate hospitality Our story: Garbi has been a gastronomic destination since 1924, attracting lovers of fresh seafood - from humble fishermen to the international jetset - to enjoy founder Petros Garbiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generous hospitality and enviable waterfront location.

Our philosophy: Now in our 9th decade, we are still guided by the same passion of letting our guests have a memorable time over carefully crafted meals, lovingly prepared with fresh ingredients and attention to detail. Garbi Restaurant | 21 Iliou street, Kavouri, Vouliagmeni | +302108963480

www.garbi.gr

Sardelaki Lagom

Ermina's More than meat Krabo

Lambros

The 130-year old Lambros, a steady point of reference in every sepia-tinted image of Vouliagmeni, still has a cachet for Athenians who head there to relive the nostalgia of Sunday family lunches. For daily meals, locals flock to the family-run Louizidis on Vouliagmeni’s main square, which has fed generations with good, wholesome Greek staples for years. Zaxos which used to be souvlaki king for 25 years now faces stiff competition from newcomers. Ermina’s More than Meat being a case in point. You know there is thought and emotion invested in a restaurant when it’s a mother of four who runs the show. Ermina Vassiliadou’s eponymous restaurant in Vouliagmeni’s café strip seems like an extension of your home kitchen, only infinitely yummier. Everything at Ermina’s More than Meat is meticulously hand-picked, the chicken is free-range, the meat sourced from two trusted butchers, the potato wedges are sliced by hand and it comes through in a joyous celebration of simple, healthy eating. The atmosphere is convivial. Vouliagmeni locals have embraced it, and its proving to be a popular draw for tourists too. Lagom, Social Eats and Drinks introduces daring, innovative experimentation to Mediterranean cuisine with a refined take on classic dishes. Everything here exudes discreet luxury. The décor is under-

stated with roughly-hewn green marble and wood accents. The food here is subtle and sublime without being intimidatingly pretentious. Lagom, after all stands for ‘just so, no more, no less’. The starters are generous portions to be shared. The crunchy-on-the-outside, gooey-on-the-inside, crusted poached eggs with curry vinaigrette hits all the right notes. That play on textures with a punchy umami comes through in the impeccably seasoned Rib-Eye steak too. Wash it down with a selection of Greece’s finest wines. For coffees and in-between meals, the strip that runs parallel to the main coastal road is a 24-hour caffeine zone and most locals split time between the most popular cafes to catch up with newspapers and friends. Aquamarina is a Vouliagmeni ‘institution’ with its old-fashioned charms and retro green rexine chairs, reputed for its meringues and millefeuilles, popular with the older generation. Sloop is a laidback hangout with good coffee, attentive service, an incredible view to the limpid Saronic bay and the crunchiest potato wedges! Rumors at the far-end is a fave ‘steki’ for young professionals who work in the neighborhood. Waffle House is a family pleaser and is packed to the gills any given time of the day, throughout the year. The local bakery Artopolis doubles up as Café Philip and serves light snacks and salads throughout the day.

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ADVERTORIAL

Ultimate luxury THE MOST COMPELLING CHOICE FOR SEASIDE DINING

Indulge yourself with the ultimate luxury of being served cocktails and fresh salads while lounging on your sundeck, toes dipped in sand at Astir Beach. 40 serves everything from sashimi and ceviche by day to morph into a luxe dining destination by sundown. Candle-lit tables, matched by the rich palette of the sun dipping in the horizon, and an elevated menu where options segue from succulent scallops and oysters to impeccably grilled Wagyu beef steak paired with an impressive wine list, makes 40 the most compelling choice for seaside dining.

40, Astir Beach, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni | Tel:+30 210.896.1261

40forty.gr

CITY SCOPE

addresses Moorings Astir Marina. Tel. 210.967.0659

Takis Agiou Panteleimonos 17 Tel. 210.890.0200

Philip by Artópolis Ermou 1 Tel. 210.967.0321

Aqua Marina Agiou Panteleimonos 15 Tel. 210.896.1214

Louizidis Taverna Ermou 2 Tel. 210.896.0591

Dock Apollonos 16 Tel: 210.896.1274

Matsuhisa Athens Apollonos 40 Tel. 210.896.0510

Krabo Thespidos Vouliagmeni. Tel. 210.896.3309

Ermina’s More Than Meat Agiou Panteleimonos 15 Tel. 210.896.0030

1937 Apollonos 16 Tel: 210.896.1274

Ithaki Restaurant Apollonos 28 Tel. 210.896.3747

Garbi Iliou 21 Tel : 210.896.3480

40 Forty Apollonos 40 Tel. 210.890.1619

Omilos Apollonos 16 Tel: 210.896.1274

BlueFish Restaurant Leoforos Poseidonos 4 Tel. 210.967.1778

Sloop Cafe Agiou Panteleimonos 17 Tel. 210.896.2500

Nerõ Vouliagmeni Lake, Ethniki Odos Athinon Souniou Tel. 210.896.2239

Island On the way from Vouliagmeni to Varkiza Tel: 210.965.3563

Helios Mercato Pelagos Taverna 37 Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, Apollonos 40 Tel. 210.896.1000

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY What distinguishes Erminaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s from yet another meatery in Athens is that it marries the appeal of mouth-wateringly tempting fast-food with a home-spun yet refined, urbane spin. Welcome to the world of sophisticated simplicity. Grilled meats on skewers, herb-infused meatballs, succulent chicken, seasoned salads and vegetables and potato wedges, made from scratch. Paired with an unhindered sea view and beer on draft. Erminaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy in a nutshell: Grilled meat can be healthy, light, fun and flavourful! Open from noon to midnight. Agiou Panteleimonos 15, Vouliagmeni 16671, Tel: +30 21 0896 0030

CITY LIFE

Let the lake work its magic

ou haven’t quite lived your Athens experience if you haven’t visited Lake Vouliagmeni. A lush, hidden, natural treasure, this is the lake that gives the coastal town of Vouliagmeni its name, as the ‘sunken one’. Believe the hype in this case, you will not regret your day here. Sheltered by 50 metre cliffs on three sides, Vouliagmeni Lake lies sunk in the remains of an immense limestone cavern, an emerald natural spa fed by tepid springs welling from underground and

by the sea. Admire irises and green caper flowers clinging to its crannies, as you swim in its mineral-rich, 21C – 29C waters, year-round, reportedly good for body and mind. The lush, manicured lawns that fringe the lake in the Privé area is open to VIP guests and lets you soak in the tranquility of this stunning setting from the comforts of your sun deck, in absolute privacy. Order from the deep recesses of your loungers as waiters ply your snack and drink requests. To make the

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experience even more rewarding, book a massage in the secret little lake, tucked away from public view, in a magical private oasis. This is one ritual that is so uplifting, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want to come back for more. Stop by for a coffee or ice-cream dayside or stay back for a spectacularly romantic moonlit dinner at NERĂ&#x2022;, as the light dapples the water. Lake Vouliagmeni, off Poseidonos Avenue. Tel: +30-210-8962237 info@vouliagmenilake.gr

Which

Mykonos Beach Club

are You?

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From chilled boho-luxe hideouts and stylish compounds where you can party on a private peninsula - to seafront gourmet strongholds and starry icons that become decadent barefoot raves at sundown; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never been more choice about where to lay your (straw) hat. Whatever your mood or mode, Mykonos has the perfect beach club for you, Amanda Dardanis suggests. Just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to book ahead; many island regulars now reserve their sunbeds before even getting on the plane!

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TRAVEL_ENTERTAINMENT

TRAVEL ENTERTAINMENT

THE ICON

THE ZEN MASTER

Blue Marlin Ibiza Mykonos

Scorpios

Best for: stylish sybarites What’s the story: It was only a matter of time before Ibiza’s most legendary beach club came to the party. Mykonos watchers have been breathlessly awaiting the touchdown of Blue Marlin Ibiza at the svelte new Aegon Mykonos (an Autograph Collection Hotel by Marriott International due to open its doors July 2019). Expect your days to slip past in a hedonistic haze of Champagne, sun, Balearic beats and exceptional nosh as this Ibizan icon brings its trademark social footprint to the star-spangled shores of Kalo Livadi. Yachties can park their rides directly at the private Blue Marlin jetty, leaving more time to enjoy all the high-grade fun.

Best for: aesthetes and those wanting to awaken their “chi” What’s the story? Spending a day at Scorpios is like hanging out at your best friend’s beach house (if your best friend happens to be someone like Giorgio Armani). Resting on five pillars - music, food, design, healing and art - this ultra-classy, cactus-clad compound sits on a craggy 7,000 sq metre peninsula overlooking Paraga beach in southern Mykonos. It’s a highly-snappable scatter of wooden beach cabanas and sofas, spilling down multiple tiers, framed by African palms, sea grass and a windfall of cactus figs, nudged onto the warm sand by errant Mykonian breezes. Scorpios joined the Soho House global tribe this summer as their first stand-alone beach club (or “beach experience” to use the proper lingo). Choose from a spectrum of “emotionally themed” spaces with different energy profiles: tune out on the Nomad’s Terrace, or hit the Slope to be right in the whirl. Wherever you settle, you’ll be tended by smiley, inked up Greeks, artfully draped in organic threads, hand-loomed by Mayan villagers from the Yucatan (snap some up for yourself at the bazaar). If it all feels like you’ve entered some effortlessly cool seaside shala, it’s one commune you’ll be happy to join. Don’t miss the weekly Sunday Sunset Ritual. You’re as likely to be dancing barefoot in the sand next to a shamanic healer as Kendall Jenner.

Blue Marlin Ibiza Mykonos, Kalo Livadi, +30 6943119944 bluemarlinibizamykonos.com THE QUEEN BEE

NAMMOS Best for: party peacocks and celeb-spotters What’s the story? Anything can happen at shiny happy Nammos. And usually does. From Kate Moss on the decks to Lionel Ritchie dancing on a table to one of his own tunes. Roll back two decades and Mykonos’ most headline-grabbing club was a humble bucket and spade beach, tucked at the end of a reed-lined dusty track on Psarou. Now its name is as familiar on the haute hedonist circuit as Le Club 55 in St Tropez. Nammos blew out its first 15 candles last summer with a star-studded bash and a makeover that included a new luxury shopping village (no excuse now not to dress the part). Arrive before noon to see handsome waiters ferrying revved-up club sandwiches to super-styling sun worshippers under stripy parasols. By early afternoon, Nammos morphs into an elegant lunch destination where international fashion designers and sport stars hold court over iced magnums of Dom Perignon Rosé. By 6pm, a flotilla of luxury boats is berthed out front and the party is at full tilt. (If the kids are still about, it’s time to pack them off with Nanny). Most celebrities who pass through Mykonos will drop in at Nammos at some point to see what all the fuss is about. It’s a heady Bacchanalian mess that shouldn’t work but somehow does. In the right dosage.

Paraga Beach, +30 2289 029250, scorpiosmykonos.com Scorpios

Psarou Beach, +30 2289 022440, nammos.gr THE BOHO-LUXE HAVEN

THE SCENE STEALER

Alemagou

Ftelia Beach Club

Best for: fashion-forward beach bums and chill-seekers What’s the story? Ditch the diamonds and gold watches. You won’t be needing them at this bohemian hotspot with an addictive off-thebeaten-track appeal. Alemagou rocks a refreshing “take us as we come” attitude, paired with a languid New Mexico aesthetic. Nestled on a dreamy curve of sand at Ftelia, fronted by protected turquoise seas, it’s where millennial beatniks and mellowed-out beach babes (think 70s Farah Fawcett) pitch up in black jeeps to neck rosé and flirt beneath a sea-grass canopy, to hypnotic tribal sounds. The Alemagou vibe might be set firmly to “chill” but there’s nothing half-hearted about the excellent food dished up here (try the clams from Halkida or the sea urchin spaghetti). Take the kids along for the ride too; they’ll have fun climbing all over the Wild West rocks.

Best for: cosmopolites and the sporty set What’s the story? Over on windswept Ftelia Beach in the north, the newly-minted Ftelia Beach Club has been clocking up the fans by dialling back the swagger. Emerging Italian architect Fabricio Casiraghi has created a relaxed echo of the famous 60s and 70s resorts of Southern France and coastal Italy by planting a sophisticated weave of burnt orange sunbeds around a hip Greek-style hacienda. Linger on the top deck over refined beach grub like grilled octopus with beetroot puree from the Interni restaurant, then take a post-prandial snooze in one of the cool vintage Gae Aulenti armchairs. Or sip on a stylish sundowner while watching the buff windsurfers who flock to Ftelia riff off the strong “meltemi” breeze. The whole set-up oozes a sultry insouciance that’s sexy as hell.

Tarsanas Beach, Ftelia, +30 22890 71339, alemagou.gr

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kensho Psarou

THE FLAMBOYANT

THE ALL-ROUND PLEASER

Kensho’s Bar and Sunset Lounge

Principote at Panormos

Best for: barefoot hedonists What’s the story: On an island that never learned understatement, old-school decadence fits right in. While Myconian clubs are still going full-throttle with big dance-music names dominating the decks, what Kensho excels at is an unequivocal chic that permeates everywhere from its locavore leanings to its crafty cocktails and flawless Instagram game. Go for the full day-to-night beach club experience, with pitchers of mojitos and other potent elixirs to keep you socially lubricated well past sundown. Guaranteed bragging rights, celebrity spotting and barefoot fiestas at one of the most coveted stretches of sand on Psarou Beach. If you really want to steal the show, arrive by helicopter and touch down in full view of fellow-revellers.

Best for: families, friends and beach purists What’s the story? Enough dash to make a splash; the recently rebooted Principote is also low-key enough to satisfy those who want to take a breather from the Mykonos party hearty scene. Tucked inside the north coast’s horseshoe bend, Principote is a near perfect beach hangout where you can pick your preferred speed. Indulge in chic “barefoot on the sand” restaurant dining. Sprawl more convivially with your mates on slouchy sofas over elevated beach bites. Or by the sea under one of the pearly crocheted umbrellas that seem to have sprouted all over the Island of the Winds. Panormos beach has a splendid natural beauty that trumps many of its rivals. Gaze out over the lagoon-like bay to Ftelia or drift along the shoreline to the stunning strip of free unspoiled beach adjoining Principote. You can plant your pareo on the sand and pretend you’re a castaway. Even in August.

Kensho Psarou Lounge, Psarou Beach, Mikonos +30 2289 029002 Kenshomykonos.com

Panormos Beach, +30 22890 77184, principote.com THE FOODIE’S FAVOURITE

Solymar

SEA & BE SCENE

Best for: gourmands, families and “The Day After” What’s the story? If Nammos is the cause … Solymar is the remedy. Tom Hanks is a big fan of this relaxed and un-pretentious mid-range alternative at prime Kalo Livadi beach, on Mykonos’ south-eastern flanks. Shallow iridescent waters and a flat sandy shore make Solymar a popular choice for families; while its outstanding modern Med fare draws fashionable foodies from all over the place. Book a sunbed for noon; then migrate at 3pm for a long leisurely lunch Mykonian-style in Solymar’s scaled-up beach hut restaurant with its mandatory boutique. Order the beef tataki with summer truffles; the spicy King crab with chili avocado and green apple; and the watermelon salad with feta spearmint and smoked tomato dressing. Wash it down with a minerally Santorini Assyrtiko (or one of the many delicious non-alcoholic cocktails pitched at the sober curious set).

Best for: extroverts and flirts What’s the story? Truffle and mozzarella sarnies at the beach? Ecological body oil for managing the perfect tan? No problem at this perennially popular Super Paradise social retreat that packs the essence of an eternal Mykonos summer to a mostly-gay clientele (and is sister to the legendary Jackie O’ club in town). Fun and universally welcoming, with an infectious vibe that’s Vegas Lounge meets Club Tropicana. Party central is a 25m round bar with lounging cushions overlooking a sculpted infinity pool. Golden sand, clear water and non-stop music and dancing make this the best hangout on the island hosting all-nighters that attract hardcore partiers and drag queens. Shy types need not apply.

Kalo Livadi, +30 22890 71745, solymarmykonos.com

Jackie O’ Beach

Super Paradise Bay, +30 22890 77298; www.jackieomykonos. com/beach-club

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T. +30 22890 78146 | F. +30 22890 78147 Email | info@cosset-mykonos.com Mykonos Goumenio Square, Mykonos Town, Z.C 84600 T. +30 22890 24450 | F. +30 22890 24451 Email | info@cosset-mykonos.com

or holiday home. A curated collection that is uplifting in its over-the-top fantasy as in its intricate craftsmanship. Over espresso, Marios and Theodoris give us a short and snappy spin of their world. Design to you is... a way of living, Art is food for the soul and design is a life-giving force. T. +30 210 8950207 | F. +30 210 8950206 Email | athens@cosset-mykonos.com Athens Laodikis Srt. 30, Glyfada, Z.C 16674 T. +30 210 8945836 | F. +30 210 8945836 Email | athens@cosset-mykonos.com

What does Cosset mean? Cosset is something you handle with love, something that you take care of. What hangs on your ceiling? A blue gorilla

Who are your clients? We started in Mykonos with established hospitality brands, and we count Four Seasons as one of our clients as well royal families from the Middle East and A-list celebs from Hollywood. The Kardashian clan even chose to film at our store in Myconos feeding thousands of Instagram posts! What do you stock? Collections from all over the world - from local artists to international brands such as Talenti, Varaschin, Riva 1920, Vondom, Gamma Italy and Eichholtz amongst others. Your business philosophy? Trust. Long term collaborations. Invest in a client rather than just a project. That’s how you get repeat clients! Mykonos is: creative, and anything but relaxing. It is the wind, the breeze, the light. To unwind: amaretto for Marios, frozen rakomelo for Theodoris. www.cossetdesign.com

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hen I visit them at the store, Marios is on the phone frantically sorting out customs clearance for a client in Miami, his scarlet Hawaiian shirt and hat scream ’I’m on holiday at all times’. Theodoris, his partner, walks into the showroom, soft-spoken and down-tempo to Mario’s high-octane, frenzied energy. The showroom is itself a cavernous collection of interesting pieces. Life-size baby elephants in driftwood grace the entrance. Arabesque teardrop light fittings in battered metal dangle off the ceiling, a cobalt blue gorilla shares his habitat with oversized banana leaves, there are tables, couches, painted donkeys and all manner of opulent fittings for a hotel

Mykonos Argyraina – Dexamenes, Z.C 84600

When Theodoris Zacharis and Marios Sergidis got together 12 years ago ‘driven by a mutual passion for good taste’, Cosset was born. An eclectic mix of wildly fantastic to one-off, hand-picked conversation pieces, Cosset is a reflection of these two dynamic personalities who ‘travel the world, scouring treasures from Asia to South America, bringing soul to your interiors and exteriors.’

Athens Vouliagmenis Ave. 44-46, Voula, Z.C 16673

THE ART OF LIVING

SECTION

FOOD & DRINK

Ice-Dreams Ninnolo Ninnolo gelato artigianale is considered by many locals as the finest artisanal ice cream shop in the norther suburb of Kifissia. You can feel even better about your decision to get that second scoop as the handmade gelato doesn’t have any butter, cream or eggs. For those too hot or relaxed to move, ninnolo even delivers to your door! Not to miss a beat, their new gelateria in downtown Athens will spoil you with a bowl made from kataifi pastry. Top Scoops: Exotic Brazilian fruit sorbets (passion fruit, guava, acai berry); the famous nocciola with hazelnut from Piemonte of Italy; the best chocolate in the world from Africa; the delectable, limited-edition vanilla from the Seychelles, tahini from the island of Limnos. Details: Address: Agiou Dimitriou 8, tel: +30 210.801.2765. www.ninnologelato.com Opening hours: 8:30 am – 1am

Dickie Dee This is instagrammers heaven, Dickie Dee with its saccharin pink walls serves a picture-perfect artisanal soft serve ice cream on a one-of-a-kind candy cloud of sugary bliss. Not to be outdone, their freshly baked desserts include Carrot cake, Red Velvet cake, Devil’s double chocolate cake and their peanut butter brownies can brag about being made with 100% real organic peanuts. Top Scoops: Fior di Latte, Dark vegan chocolate, Rosewater and Sicilian Pistachio. You can enjoy them in a cup, in a cone or even wrapped in cotton candy with toppings galore. Details: Address: Voulis 23, Monastiraki, tel, 2103238277 | fb: Dickie Dee Athens Opening hours: Every Day 10am – 11pm

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FOOD & DRINK

Move over Rome, Athens is going gelato crazy and with the temperatures soaring, the lines are forming outside the city’s top ice-cream bars.

Waffle House In seaside Vouliagmeni, or the Athens Riviera as it’s now referred to, you’ll find the Waffle House which offers a chilled-out experience with a view. For 21 its been fulfilling ice-cream fantasies for the young and old. Indulge in one of the Waffle House’s signature piping hot waffles and waffins (somewhere between a mini-waffle and a muffin!) with their delectable ice-cream on top. It would simply be rude not to indulge. Top Scoops: The Ferrero Rocher, Kinder Bueno, Maltesers and Snickers balls are pure ice-cream porn for choco-philes across the land. Other irresistible classic hits include: chocolate with banana cubes; lime with basilicum; and white chocolate with Baileys. Details: Address: Leof. Poseidonos 17, Vouliagmeni, tel: +30 210.896.1227 | fb: Waffle House Opening hours: Every Day 10am – 2am

Le Greche

Top Scoops: Try the ice-cream sandwiches topped with grilled pistachios; chocolate ice-cream with rum and prunes; ricotta with bergamot and Aperol, mascarpone with Kalamata figs, Sicilian pistachio, but also the wonderful baklava & cream. Details: Address: Mitropoleos 16, Syntagma, tel: +30 216.700.6458 | fb: le greche Opening hours: Every Day 8:30am – 02:00am Price: €21/kg

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You’ll think you’ve died and gone to Italia the moment Le Greche’s gelato hits your tongue. With its creamy texture and all-natural Greek and Italian ingredients it’s no wonder there’s usually a wait for a scoop of their only 8% fat ice cream, that harnesses the freshest of Greek and Italian ingredients.

FOOD & DRINK

Kostarelos It was only a question of time before the Kostarelos family brought their expertise in dairy products, honed over three generations, to ice-cream making. And we're not complaining! Take your pick from seasonal fruity flavours - strawberries and melons - for a reminder of your childhood summers or settle for classic vanilla and chocolate. Top Scoops: Nothing spells Greek ice-cream like the resin-rich flavours of Kaimaki. Our vote for coolest scoop though is reserved for the subtly flavoured fig ice-cream! Details: Address: Patriarchou Ioakeim 30-32, Kolonaki tel: +30 210.725.9000 www.kostarelos.gr Opening hours: Mon-Sat: 8am to 10pm, Sun 10am to 6pm

Bufala Gelato The Thessaloniki-launched franchise stands out from the crowd by using only buffalo milk in its products, which has lower cholesterol and more calcium, iron and phosphorus than cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s milk. The crowd-pleasing Cold Stone choice allows you to play ringmaster by creating your own personalised ice-cream flavours from 30 different ingredients, which is made with much fanfare into a show. Top Scoops: Pavlova (white chocolate gelato, strawberry jelly, Strawberry, meringues) and American Breakfast (Peanut Gelato, Oat Cookies, Salted Caramel, Nuts). The sesame flavoured vegan and high-protein Icefit. Details: Address: Artemidos, Esperidon Square, Glyfada and Orfeos 2, Vouliagmeni, tel: +30 210.894.6000 www.bufalagelato.com Opening hours: Every day 9.00-24.00

Kayak At Kayak, you will find the most eccentric and original flavours modelled after the latest culinary trends in Greece and around the world: non-sweet ice cream, alcohol based ice cream, spicy ice cream, as well as quality that one would expect from a chef of a top-rated restaurant. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the only Greek company to offer organic ice cream in four magical flavours (pure vanilla, rich chocolate, real strawberry, exotic green tea). With trend-setting branches in Mykonos, Kifissia and at Costa Navarino, they are clearly ahead of the ice-cream pack. Top Scoops: Champagne with pink roses; Organic Madagascar Vanilla, Mastic & Pink Pepper, Melomakarono Ice Cream and Mint Choco Chip. Details Address: Metaxa 24-26 & Zisimopoulou 9, tel: +30 210.894.9130 | www.kayak.gr Opening hours: Every Day 8:00am-02:00am

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FOOD & DRINK

Hans and Gretel This fairytale come to life is located in downtown Athens; Hans & Gretel is a candy store inspired by the famous Grimm children’s story and draws visitors to the premises with its sweet and eye-popping décor. The hand-made ice cream and machine soft serve can be covered in multiple guilt-inducing. toppings Top Scoops: The sugar overload shop has become famous for its show-stopper bubble waffle that you can fill with ice-cream and everything sweet under the sun. Details: Address: 48 Adrianou St, tel: +30 2103315168 fb: Hans & Gretel Opening hours: Every Day 9am to midnight

Da Vinci Artisan Gelato This Mykonos-born gelateria is now offering its whipped gelato creations all across Athens, thanks to ice cream shops in Monastiraki, Plaka, Varkiza and Kifissia. The city center Adrianou branch can fulfil your late-night ice cream cravings as it’s open 24-7. Midnight scoop anyone? With a philosophy of seasonal flavours and no additives, or hydrogenated fats, you can almost feel great about your sweet tooth.

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Top Scoops: Ricotta with fig Millefeuille, Grandma Cookies, Mojito, Apple Pie. Details: Da Vinci city branches: Adrianou 50, Monastiraki, tel: +30 210.325.3893 and Selley 4, Plaka, tel: +30 210.322.6046 www.davincigelato.gr Opening hours: Always Open (Adrianou branch).

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GRAPE IDEAS

Wherever you are headed this summer, make sure you have a glass of traditional vintage to escort you through your holidays. Stin ygeia sas!!!

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GRAPE IDEAS

Summer in a bottle Eleni Kefalopoulou raises a glass to Greece’s indigenous whites

Northern Greece: In the last 10 years, Northern Greece has developed a reputation for rich aromatic white wines. Starting from the Pangeo mountain region near Kavala, Ktima Vivlia Hora produces Ovilos, a blend of Assyrtiko and Semillon matured in oak barrels with hints of mango, apricot vanilla and honey. It is an absolute must this summer, as is Magiko Vouno from Nico Lazaridis. From the same region, Roditis from the Simeonidis winery is a fresh choice with lemon and citrus aromas and a floral taste, while Idisma drios from Techni Oenou Estate is an aromatic green-yellow Chardonnay with a rich chestnut aftertaste. Heading towards central Macedonia, the Gerovassiliou winery has won several prizes in local and international competitions for its wines and produces the Assyrtiko and Malagouzia varieties, both with impressive aromas and a lemony aftertaste. In nearby Halkidiki, Malagouzia of Porto Carras Estate reveals the unique floral aromas of the variety. In the Amynteon region, Alpha Estate produces one of the best Greek Sauvignon Blancs with a well-balanced fruity flavour and a long-lasting aftertaste. On the slopes of Mount Olympus, Dimitris Katsaros bottles an excellent golden-coloured Chardonnay, bursting with the sweet aroma of fruits, nuts and vanilla. Central Greece: In Thessaly, organically grown grapes of the Karipidis family produce a rich and crispy Sauvignon Blanc which is allowed to mature in oak barrels for seven months before it reveals its complex combination of citrus fruits. Epirus is the land of Zitsa, where the famous white variety Debina is cultivated. Poeme from Glinavos winery is a natural sparkling semi-dry wine. Crystal clear in colour, the elegant bubbles and lemon tang zest create a unique combination and a great accompaniment to

local Greek cuisine. Uncork a bottle of Eva, a delicate fruity sparkling wine by Domaine Efharis and take in the unspoilt beauty of Central Greece. The Peloponnese: One third of all Greek vineyards are in the Peloponnese, famous for its history, archaeological sites and quality wines. Mantinia, at an altitude of 1.900 to 2.500 feet produces the Moschofilero variety, an amazingly versatile, food-friendly wine. A glass of well-chilled Amalia Brut by Tselepos Estate is just the ticket. Following classical champagne production methods, Amalia Brut boasts long lasting bubbles, rose and honey aromas with a hint of yeast. In ancient Nemea, the Palivos Estate makes Petrines Plagies, a rich wine with hints of watermelon and peach, particularly suited for summertime drinking. In the south, near the Byzantine castle of Malvasia lies the long established Monemvasia winery. Owner G. Tsibidis is dedicated to cultivating local varieties of the region like Kidonitsa, Asprouda and Malvasia, varieties that trace their roots back to the 12th century! From nearly extinct, to a darling of sommeliers worldwide, Malvasia is a floral, aromatic yet structured variety and is considered by many as Greece’s most dynamic entry into the international marketplace. Sit at one of the terraces of the old castle, uncork a bottle of Monemvasios and let this golden libation take you on a journey through the ages. The Islands: Cephalonia: Off to the west, the Robola variety is the pride of Cephalonia. The Robola of Gentilini winery is a noble, floral and balanced wine that brings the Ionian breeze right into your glass. Limnos: Limnos produces excellent aromatic wines from the Moschato Alexandria variety. Try Limnos of the Limnos Union for a rosy hint. Paros: From Paros, try the Monemvasia-Assyrtiko by Moraitis Estate, a surprising blend of the two varieties. Santorini: The volcanic island of Santorini has a unique, centuries-old history of vinification. The sun, the wind and the lava work magically together and the local variety of Assyrtiko produces strong, crispy white wines. I recommend the Santorini by Sigalas and Thalassitis by Gaia wines, both100% Assyrtiko wines and Santorini by Gavalas from Assyrtiko and Aidani. Crete: Crete, the cradle of Minoan civilization, is home to a wine press dating back to 2000 BC. Vilana, the main variety, produces fruity white wines and also Thrapsathiri, Vidiano and Malvasia contribute to their floral palate. Paterianakis Estate produces Melissokipos, a fresh fruity summer wine, from an organically grown vineyard that is the ideal companion for seafood and grilled vegetables. Boutari’s Fantaxometocho (named after a local Cretan legend about a haunted cottage) is a robust white while its Kritikos wine is full-bodied yet frothy – a fail-safe bet for all occasions.

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he glorious Greek summer is here! A beautiful orange sun warming my back in Byzantine Monemvasia, a walk through Lefkes in Paros, the dry salty wind mixing with the aroma of indigenous flowers, a plunge into the tropical waters of Halkidiki, a coffee in the shade of Mount Olympus, a syrtaki dance in Crete and the unique sunset at Oia in Santorini. The only thing missing is a cool glass of refreshing Greek wine, full of aromas from the earth, the sun and the sea, knowing that nothing else can quench my wanderer’s thirst, nor quite match the grilled seafood I’m about to devour. The 300 plus varieties of indigenous grapes make wines that are delicious and perfectly appropriate with a wide array of foods. In spite of the heat and the sea, and in some cases, as a direct result of both, Greece has been producing incredibly well-balanced, clean, brilliant wines. I find it particularly difficult to name only a few of my favourites, so I thought I would begin my list by order of geography, beginning from Northern Greece and making my way south.

Sun-kissed recipes

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Watermelon-manouri salad with fresh mint and chopped almonds by Stelios Parliaros 4 servings 3 tbsp. fresh mint, julienned 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tbsp. extra virgin Greek olive oil Salt and white pepper 1 4-pound (2 kgs.) seedless watermelon, cut into ½ inch cubes (about 6 cups) ½ pound (500 gr.) manouri cheese, cut into ¼-inch cubes ¼ cup blanched almonds, toasted and coarsely chopped 1. Whisk together the mint, lemon juice and olive oil until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Place the watermelon and manouri cubes together in a medium bowl. Pour the dressing over just before serving and toss gently. Place watermelon and manouri in a medium-sized serving bowl. Drizzle with dressing and toss. Sprinkle with almonds and serve.

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With permission to reproduce the images and recipes from the| Hellenic Foreign Trade Board | 142

Tomato saganaki with formaela parnassou cheese by Konstantinos Vasalos

1 serving 2 tomatoes, peeled 1 oz. (90 gr.) formaela cheese, cut into 3 slices 2 tbsp. extra-virgin Greek olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste A few small sprigs of rosemary 1. Carefully cut out large fillets of similar size from the fleshy seedless part of the tomato. 2. Oil the bottom and sides of a round 3 x 8 inch (8 x 2 cm.) ring mold and line with the tomato filets. Season with salt and pepper. 3. Lightly sautĂŠ the formaela and place it in the mold on top of the tomatoes. Place a few small sprigs of rosemary between layers. 4. Cover the formaela with a few more tomato filets, drizzle with olive oil and bake at 356 degrees F / 180 degrees C for 10 minutes. Remove the mold and serve immediately. athens insider | 143 |

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summer reads

BOOKS

There’s a simple reason why time speeds up as you get older. As you age, each year becomes a smaller section of the overall life you have lived. With this logic, it’s arguable that the examined life is a more interesting one. Anna Roins picks 3 high-profile, relatable memoirs of women over 40. Whether they’re opening their lives up for public inspection, or through the exploratory lens of therapy, you will enjoy these laugh-out-loud New York Times best-sellers. They’ll help you through the speed-bumps of time as the hum of bees and scent of neroli slow you down here in summertime Greece.

Becoming, by Michele Obama (Crown, 13 Nov 2018)

“I wake up every morning in a house that was built by slaves,” she writes. The words echo while you read on. To the founding fathers of the Jim Crow South, black women were meant for the field or the kitchen. It’s sobering to think that Michele was a descendant of the very people that some of the previous First Ladies had owned.

t’s been said that ‘First ladies are, for the most part, second-hand celebrities.’ This can’t be the case for Michelle Obama who helped create the most inclusive White House in history. Her decision not to hold back on calling the current president, “a bully”, amongst other things, is not much of a surprise in her warm and lively memoir. Since its publication in November last year, it has sold over ten million copies. “I wake up every morning in a house that was built by slaves,” she writes. The words echo while you read on. To the founding fathers of the Jim Crow South, black women were meant for the field or the kitchen. It’s sobering to think that Michele was a descendant of the very people that some of the previous First Ladies had owned. Michele is indebted to her parents who supported her and her brother, Craig to surpass discrimathens insider | 144 |

ination and become the best versions of themselves, and they did when they were accepted into Princeton. “I grew up with a disabled [but hard-working] dad in a too-small house with not much money in a starting-to-fail neighborhood, and I also grew up surrounded by love and music in a diverse city in a country where an education can take you far. I had nothing or I had everything. It depends on which way you want to tell it.” Years later, the weight of her family’s and the country’s history sat on her shoulders when she became the first black woman ever to become First Lady in 2009. Her candor and insight, sorrow and indignation are palpable when she relates her experiences of miscarriage, IVF, motherhood, and the “little dent in my soul and also in our marriage” after having been through five campaigns in 11 years. Often funny, her voice comes through the pages like you’re having a chat with your sister over a cup of tea. When she was an attorney in 1989 at Sidley Austin LLP, she was asked to mentor Barack for the summer. She described her thoughts when she looked at his photo. “A less-than-flattering, poorly lit head shot of a guy with a big smile and a whiff of geekiness - and remained unmoved.” However, thanks to his “noble heart” and his “encyclopaedic head” Michelle fell for him and his idealism and Barack, in turn, was drawn to her traditionalism. Sometimes this got in the way. “Barack had always had his eyes on some far-off horizon, on his notion of the world as it should be,” she writes. “Just for once, I wanted him to be content with life as it was.” She complains about “the new heaviness” that the presidency brought with it, symbolised by a limo that was “a seven-ton tank disguised as a luxury vehicle”. What she did to counter the heaviness of their roles was to, at times, ignore protocol. This is how her memoir can be irrepressibly light while also being grounded. Her humanity is refreshing and charming in the most elegant way.

BOOKS

by Chelsea Handler (Spiegel & Grau, 2 April 2019)

his is Chelsea Handler’s first book in five years and her first memoir. It follows the best-seller, ‘Uganda Be Kidding Me’ and the comedian’s Netflix special. How did it come about? In 2016, Chelsea daydreamed about having a woman in the White House…but then Donald Trump came along. In her despair, Chelsea worried that she had become the embodiment of the elite she disregarded which helped elect a president she despised in the first place. In her latest book, she invites us into her therapy sessions with neuropsychiatrist, Dan Siegel (who featured on her former Netflix series, "Chelsea" in 2016), in the hope she can make some positive changes in her life. Her writing is simply hilarious, and has received accolades from Amy Schumer, Gloria Steinem and Ellen DeGeneres to name a few. She shares how she struggles to complete menial tasks; the contentious relationship with her father; her inability to empathize, and the profound impact her brother’s accidental death in 1984 had left on her. Her brother, Chet was "kind of my protector, kind of a father figure, a big brother, a crush, your first boyfriend." He represented her first breakup, she says, which in turn affected her future romantic relationships. Later, she grieved the death of each parent, but differently from she expected. She had loved them with such ambivalence. She also learned empathy. “Wow if I’m going through this, then how many other haven’t dealt with their pain?” Indeed. This brave and offbeat memoir is endearing, and just like its owner, full of self-reflected sarcasm countered by riotous vignettes about her dogs and her very real crush on Robert Mueller. “When Bert isn’t around, Bernice is a star. When Bert is around, she’s like any other marginalized woman. Then she turned on her heel and walked out of the kitchen, with Bert following close behind. The two of their asses walking away from me looked like two giant locomotives leaving the station on twin tracks.” As she said, “No person is just one thing. People can be filled with light and affection and also be tortured and conniving and dishonest. Happiness can coincide with great pain. One can lead while also following, the same way one can follow while also leading.” Truer words have never been spoken. This book keeps you laughing while inspiring you to look within yourself.

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by Lori Gottlieb (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2 April 2019)

ori Gottlieb worked as a writer in Hollywood for TV shows like ‘E.R.’, before she was a best-selling author, an advice columnist and a successful Los Angeles therapist. Her latest book is almost guaranteed to be a disarming and thought-provoking part-memoir and part self-help therapy experience. It’s already being developed as a television series with Eva Longoria and ABC. It all started when her fiancé unexpectedly broke off his engagement to her and her son, which was devastating. She reasoned she might need herself a therapist to get over the pain. Little did she know that her ‘crisis’, was her ‘presenting problem’ that got her through the door despite her profession. It was really an indicator of something deeper that needed to be addressed. Enter Wendell, her quirky, new psychiatrist whom she describes as someone who, “seems to have come straight from Therapist Central Casting.” When she was droning on about ‘Boyfriend’, Wendell lightly kicked her. “What was that?” she replied. “Well,” Wendell says, “you seem like you’re enjoying the experience of suffering, so I thought I’d help you out with that.” He reminds her, and us that she must feel the pain, but she doesn’t have to suffer so much. Illuminating stuff! There’s something so appealing about listening in on somebody else’s therapy session, especially if they themselves are a therapist. However, it’s more than just eavesdropping. With this book, the reader is invited to learn a thing or two about themselves, as well. There’s clear and metered-out advice explaining psychological terms like ‘projection’, or ‘attachment styles’ and ‘classic displacement’. About why we behave the way we do. The main story is about her break-up with Boyfriend, but it’s also about the lives of four of her patients (anonymized); a narcissistic Hollywood producer; a newlywed diagnosed with a terminal illness; a senior citizen threatening to end her life; and a young woman sleeping with the wrong men. This is what makes the book so fascinating. Between Lori and her patients and Lori and her therapist, it’s like unravelling several mysterious all at once. It’s raw, it’s funny and has admissions of vulnerability that will make you gasp with awe. Sometimes it’s good to know we’re not alone as we navigate the joys and upheavals of our lives. These three successful, relatable and authentic people will make you feel, all will be well - while laughing at the same time. (*Incredibly Lori Gottlieb still sees patients according to her website. I wonder if she’ll take Skype sessions?)

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Life Will Be the Death of Me...and You Too!,

Maybe You Should Talk to Someone: A Therapist, HER Therapist and Our Lives Revealed,

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ENDOCRINOLOGY IN GREECE A HOLISTIC APPROACH H BYDR DRPARI PARIRAPTI, RAPTI, ENDOCRINOLOGIST ENDOCRINOLOGIST BY Endocrinologyisisthe thescience science Endocrinology effects that studies studiesthe thecomplex complex effects of various hormones of various hormones as wellasas well as disturbances disturbances caused bycaused excesby or deficient siveexcessive or deﬁcient levels oflevels those of those hormones. Endocrine hormones. Endocrine glands are glands are hormone-producing hormone-producing organs; hororgans; hormones themselves mones themselves involved are involved in thearemanagein the management and process ment and process of regulating of regulating and rehabilitating and rehabilitating various funcvarious functions tions of the body. of the body. They affect, among other They affect, among other things, things, metabolism, absorption metabolism, absorption of nutri of nutrients, physicalheight, growth, ents, physical growth, hair height, hair growth and skin growth and skin quality. Hormones quality. Hormones also shape also shape the way an organism the way an organism responds responds internal and external to internalto and external envienvironmental stimuli causing ronmental stimuli bybycausing biological activity every cellcell and biological activityin in every en the appropriate by providing and by providing the appropriate for the variousof ergy forenergy the various functions functions the The human body. the humanofbody. endocrine The endocrine consists system consistssystem of the hypothalaof the hypothalamus and of the mus and of the pituitary, thyroid, pituitary, thyroid, parathyroid, parathyroid, thymus and adrenal thymus and adrenal glands, as glands, well as the pancreas, the well as as the pancreas, the ovaovaries and the testicles. ries and the testicles. Hormonalsecretions secretions begin in adolescence, Hormonal adolescence,accompanying accompanying and determining –- the lives of women -– and women and and men men throughout throughout their lives. Chemical messengers transmit information crucial to starting with with sex sex hormones hormones produced produced to all all bodily bodily functions, functions, starting by the ovaries, including estrogen and progesterone, aswell well by the ovaries, including estrogen and progesterone, as as androgen from the adrenal gland, which must be present as androgen from the adrenal gland, which must be present in defined amounts in a woman’s body, as it’s responsible for breast development, the shape of the pelvis, the density breast the shape of the pelvis, the of the development, bones, the deposit of adipose tissuethe in density specificoflocations that grant femininity to the female body and also the grant femininity to the female body and also the stimulation stimulation of hair growth in various areas. In addition, the

of hairhormones growth in various areas. In same determine the regularity and rhythm of menaddition, the same hormones de struation, and affect the termine the regularity andpsyche. rhythm Inofmen, height, weight, hair admenstruation, and affect the hesion, middle fatweight, tissue, psyche.libido, In men, height, personality and the activity of hair adhesion, libido, middle fat thymus are all influenced by hortissue, personality and the activimones, especially testosterone. In general, the thymus is afhormones, especially testosterone. fected by sex hormones, which, In general, the thymus womamong other things, givesinthe feen affects sex characteristics, memale characteristics and affects metabolism, bonestructure, structure,fatty fattabolism, bone ty tissue and mood changes, eartissue and mood changes, early lymenstrual menstrualsyndrome, syndrome, cramps, cramps, pains, constipation, indigestion pains, constipation, indigestion and acne. and acne. Generally speaking, a balanced speaking, a balanced dietGenerally is necessary to maintain hordiet is necessary to maintain hormonal equilibrium from puberty monal equilibrium from puberty to menopause. Maintaining such atobalance is crucial to quality of menopause. Maintaining such life and longevity women. a balance is crucial for to quality of Hormones have cardio-proteclife and longevity for women. tive properties, psychotropic Hormones have cardio-protective properties (with effects that inproperties, psychotropic proper clude mood improvement and ties (with effects that include mood cognitive function improvement) improvement and cognitive func and help determine skin quality, tionmaintaining improvement) and help deter so the proper hor-mine skin quality, soparamount maintainingimportance. the proper hormonal balance monal balance is of a professional endocrinologist and, as such, my aim is isI’m of paramount importance. to diagnose and treat hormonal disorders restoring horI’m a professional endocrinologist and, as by such, my aim is to monal balance in the body. My specialty is diseases of the diagnose and treat hormonal disorders by restoring hormonal thyroid balancegland. in the body. My specialty is diseases of the thyroid gland. I also deal with aesthetic endocrinology (wellness and I also deal with aesthetic endocrinology (wellness and well-bewell-being), combining specific diets (with a focus on super-foods and/ or weight loss targets) with physical exercise or weight loss targets) with exercise and thermal and thermal spa sessions. Allphysical treatments are presented in spa an sessions. All treatments are presented in an holistic way in order holistic way in order to achieve a more attractive appearance to well achieve a morehealth. attractive appearance as well as better health. as as better

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YOUR REAL ESTATE TEAM IN GREECE

Why Epsilon Team is right Epsilonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team provides professional real estate services covering upscale residential and commercial properties including retail space and hotels. Our team of 9 offer comprehensive services that cover every aspects of a project from legal support to design, making it distinctive from other real estate agencies in Greece.

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psilon Team offers consistent legal advice to its customers to questions pertaining to buying, selling or renting properties in Greece. Given that the property laws concerning the real estate market are very versatile, and by athens insider | 24 |

default, rather complex in Greece, making the journey to handling property in Greece as accommodating and comfortable as can be. In addition to the complimentary legal advice that the Epsilon team provides its customers

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portals as well as social media. The Epsilon team is a member of the Athens Realtors Association and the Athens Chamber of Tradesmen. Our fee regarding the selling of real estate is between 2% and 6%, depending on the effort and the cost of advertising needed to promote and sell a property, while it is just 2% for buyers.

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for your Real Estate needs

Institute of Life is one of the largest and most advanced Assisted Reproduction Centers in Europe. It uses the most advanced technology, applying innovative treatments and techniques as well as the highest operational standards to provide certainty to the couples who put their trust in its services.

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INSTITUTE OF LIFE

New Developments in Assisted Reproduction “Where expectation meets science’’

hour basis without interfering with their culturing conditions. At the same time, the PGT-A is a relatively recent technique by which an embryo is examined for chromosomal abnormalities before it is implanted in the woman’s uterus. This embryo test is usually performed in cases of couples that are suffering from repeated failures or miscarriages. By combining these two modern and very important technologies, it is feasible to select the embryos with the highest implantation potential, with absolute precision, thus improving the success rates of in vitro fertilization. By keeping up with the most recent developments in Assisted Reproduction, Institute of Life is making a big step forward to assist couples who put their trust in its experienced team to achieve their goal of becoming parents.

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ssisted Reproduction is constantly evolving, and more techniques are being developed to address infertility of both sexes. The most critical developments are taking place in the embryological laboratory, with a focus on the most effective treatment of each couple. In order to reduce the time required to achieve the pregnancy and the birth of a healthy child, it is necessary to use all the techniques available to the modern embryological laboratory. It is important to create the ideal laboratory conditions and develop strategies for successful selection of the most suitable embryos to be transferred. Time Lapse Imaging technology is the most important non-invasive method of evaluating the implantation capability of the embryos and monitors their development on a 24-

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NEW HOTEL

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Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kapopoulos Fine Arts Varis - Koropiou Av. 94, Koropi Tel: 210.642.6573

see & do

Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 The Blender Gallery Zisimopoulou 4, Glyfada Tel: 213.028.0597 The George Economou Collection Art Gallery - Marousi Grammou 77, Agii Anargyroi, Marousi Tel: 210.809.0519 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278, Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

GALLERIES Artion Argyropoulou 1 & Levidi Dimitriou 16, Kifisia Tel: 211.210.6455 Voukourestiou 21 Tel: 212.104.4166 Four Seasons Lobby Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 6944.477.383 A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549

CULTURAL VENUES Athinais Cultural Centre Astorias 34-36, Votanikos, Tel: 210.348.0000. B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens, Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st., Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466

Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938

Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali, Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550

Bernier - Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527

Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000

Citronne Gallery Athens Patriarchou Ioakim 19, Tel :219.723. 5226

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Syngrou 364, Kallithea Tel: 216.809.1000

Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis, Tel: 210.8619.488

The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757

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CULTURAL INSTITUTES French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 British Council Kolonaki Square 17, 106 73 Athens, Tel: 210.369.2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47, Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

THEATRES Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

MUSEUMS Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185 Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens, Tel: 210.923.1502 spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens, Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos

Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street, Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Hellenicâ&#x20AC;&#x2C6;Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros, Tel: 212.254.0000 hellenic-cosmos.gr Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens, Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka,Tel: 210.322.5582 jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552 Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology Pindarou 6, Athens Tel: 211.411.0044 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens, Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis, Tel: 210.924.1043 theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 & Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857

FASHION Ancient Greek Sandals Kolokotroni 1, Athina 105 62 Tel : 210.323.0938

JEWELLERY

Callista Crafts Voukourestiou 11 Tel : 210.364.7989 Occhio Papavassiliou - Glyfada Leof. Dimarchou Aggelou Metaxa 34, Glifada 166 74 Tel: 210.894.8510 Occhio Papavassiliou â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Athens Stadiou 5, Athina 105 62 Tel: 210.321.0042 Kokkoris Optics Pl. Esperidon 3, Glifada 166 74 Tel : 210.898.0850 Linea Piu Sekeri 6 Tel : 210.360.6125

Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Luisa World Skoufa 15 Tel : 210.363.5600

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone

Louis Vuitton Voukourestiou St Tel : 210.361.3938

Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Panaidis Eyewear Boutique Artemidos 2, Glifada 166 74 Tel : 210.892.0934 Milioni 12 & Iraklitou 2, Kolonaki T: 210 3616683 Zeus + Dione Voukourestiou 6 Tel : 210.323.0132

Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux

DEPT. STORES

Georgios P. Voulis 35, Athina Tel : 210.331.2220

Attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury brands , designer shoes and cosmetics Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 High-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion McArthurGlen Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre with value-for-money promotions The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Marathianakis Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs Marco Bicego Boutique Voukourestiou 20, Athina Tel : 210.363.6900 Nikos Koulis Filikis Eterias 15, Kolonaki Square, Athens Tel: +30.210.723.3783 Contemporary designer jewellery Odysseus Jewels Voukourestiou 20, Athens

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Tel: +30. 211.220.4500 Wide range of jewellery and watches Omega Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces Pentheroudakis Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design Van Cleef & Arpels Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset Venetia Vildiridis Voukourestiou 11 and El. Venizelou 8, Tel: +30.210.363.5145, +30 210.321.9408 FAX: +30 210.360.2896 Kassaveti 19, Kifissia Tel: +30. 210. 623. 6617 Original designer jewellery pieces and watches Zerteo Jewellery Kiprou 78, Glifada Tel : 210.894.6682 Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

SOUVENIRS Anamnesia Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Andrianou 99, Plaka Tel: 214.687.0704 Matogianni, Myconos, Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr Acropolis Museum Shop 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911 Benaki Museum Shop Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, Four Seasons Lobby, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000 www.benakishop.gr Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3 www.cycladic.gr

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Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr

useful info

EMBASSIES ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4, Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721 BANGLADESH Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko, Tel: 210.672.0250 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri, Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens, Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436 IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri, Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4161 KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou, Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens Tel. 210.729.4483

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LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2, Syntagma, Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei, Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei, Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychico, Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou, Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.1980

EMERGENCIES EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Ipirou 1, Athens. Duty Pharmacies Tel:1434 Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777

Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000 ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158 HEALTH PAEDIATRIC HOSPITALS EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535 PRIVATE HOSPITALS CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000, centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365 YGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro, Tel: 210.989.2100-20 Distomou 5-7, Maroussi, Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro, Tel: 210.480.9000 metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi, Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.9000

PUBLIC HOSPITALS ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula, Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit. TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9 ENGLISH MEDIA NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES Athens Insider, the quarterly magazine for Greece in English The International New York Times carries the English version of Kathimerini RADIO Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610 SCHOOLS GREEK LANGUAGE The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636 Tel: 210.701.5242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Tel: 210.330.1455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706 SITES Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Byzantine Churches. many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox

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church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the birthplace of democracy. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-theguard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in 500 BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight winds, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

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SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokratias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi, Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2, Tel: .210.677.0220 UK Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 USA Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50,Psychico, Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080

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In the Elbe Sandstone Mountains I | Fabian Schubert

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The Athens Photo Festival celebrates the pursuit of the perfect image, the one that tells the story and forever captures an ephemeral moment. Its 2019 edition showcases thought-provoking, challenging, and exceptional photography by 100 emerging and established artists from 32 countries. At the Benaki Museum / Pireos 138. athens insider | 160 |

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens - Mykonos - Santorini Athens - Mykonos - Santorini Tel: +(30)2103250555