THE CITY MAGAZINE OF
January - February 2016 Year 15. Issue 125 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114
Feeling Loved in Athens The Seduction List | Winter Wellness | Your Room or Mine? | The Lycabettus Set Cityscope: Nikis Street, Astoria: New York’s Best Little Horio Downtown Dining Australia special: The Diplomacy of Distance | A Couple of Good Sports Greek Life: An Orange Juice and Two Squid, Please! | 20 Signs you’ve become Greek! The Comeback Beads | Brunching a la Ellinika
ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE insider athens | 1 January - February 2016
Who knew, when Athens Insider launched in November 2000, that we would survive our toddler years, enter adolescence and go through our phase of rebellion and self-discovery. So no piercings and tattoos just yet, but Insider’s Art Director Michel Devanakis has spent long hours giving the magazine a print makeover - including new formats, simpler, less cluttered layout and streamlined content, with responsive design optimized for quick reading. On the editorial side, Amanda Dardanis brings a whole range of new storytelling tools to amplify our cultural coverage of style, art, literature, design, interiors, city life and travel. As Athens Insider strives to retain its influential, creative voice, our journalists and photographers examine, analyze and edit the cultural moment we live in, setting the tone for conversation embraced by our influential readers.
In our revamped avatar, we offer no apologies for this unashamedly romantic issue which suggests a bouquet of ways to bring some heat to gloomy February days, from a seduction list sure to woo the most cynical of partners, romantic hideaways with sensuous steam-baths and alternative Valentine’s thrills in the city. Plus some much-needed laughter to fuel that love for our adopted country. Indulge in a quiz on how Greek you’ve become and roll out Greek idioms like a pro with ‘Greekisms for Dummies’, now available at all leading bookstores and on insider-publications.com/subscribe/books. We hope you, our dear reader, will continue to show us some love with your subscriptions to keep bringing you hand-picked, curated, premium content through our magazines, our weekly newspaper supplement with the International New York Times-Kathimerini and through our digital newsletters. Thank you for making us feel loved.
Sudha Nair-Iliades
Publisher - Editor
Photos
Subscriptions
Sudha Nair - Iliades
Kostas Bekas, Yannis Dramis Petros Koublis, Maya Iliades
Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 30, Abroad € 60
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Contributors in this Issue
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Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.
Art Director Michel Devanakis
Editorial Team Amanda Dardanis Muriel Noël
Client Relations
John Carr, Holley Martlew, Caroline Olsen, Sherri Moshman Paganos, Stella Sevastopoulos John Zervos,
Sophia Velissaridis Vickie Hagis
Founder
Graphic Design
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Fokia Kitsou
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Steve Pantazopoulos
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insider athens | January - February 2016 1
Michel Devanakis Award-winning graphic designer, fluent in English, French and Greek, Michel moved to Athens in 1997 to create Studio ZIP, after a long and interesting career in France and Canada. His background in Marketing is a major asset in his creative approach and his services are sought after both in Greece and abroad. An artist in his ‘rare’ spare time, Michel is passionate about discovering obscure destinations. He is the Art Director of Athens Insider, Bonjour Athenes and Insider Weekly.
Petros Koublis Born in the city of Serres, Petros Koublis has been working as a professional photographer since 2004. He mainly focused on fashion photography and portraiture, co-operating with magazines, both in Greece and abroad. His personal work has been exhibited both in private and group exhibitions, and it has been published in magazines such as the British Journal of Photography, Esquire Russia and on some of the world’s best on-line art and design platforms.
John Carr Born in North Staffordshire, John Carr has a BA in history and MA in sociology from Leicester University. He has worked in Greece as a correspondent for the Associated Press, Wall Street Journal Europe, The Times of London and Vatican Radio and as broadcaster, writer and actor since 1978. He has published several books including, The America Capsule (2005),Your Eyes Fourteen (2007), On Spartan Wings (2012), Sparta’s Kings (2012), The Defence and Fall of Greece 1940-41 (2013), RHNS Averof (2014) and Greekisms for Dummies (2016).
Amanda Dardanis A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at s News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from news and politics; property and tourism; to crime and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph – and also contributes to local Greek publications.
Sherri Moshman Paganos Leaving Manhattan in the mid-1980’s, Sherri Moshman Paganos came to Greece for a two year sojourn that turned into a [GCT ECTGGT CU CP GFWECVQT CU YGNN CU C PQP ƒEVKQP YTKVGT CPF RQGV 5JG NQXGU VJG YQPFGTU QH NKXKPI JGTG HQQF EQQMGF YKVJ VTCFKVKQP CPF ECTG UYKOOKPI KP VJG ENGCT UGC YCVEJKPI ƒNOU CPF EQPEGTVU WPFGT VJG UVCTU CPF VCMKPI YCNMU KPVQ VJG past in vibrant Athens neighborhoods like Plaka and Thiseio.
Caroline Olsen Of Filipino-Danish heritage, Caroline is an intern at Insider and a student at Northwestern University in Chicago studying Journalism, Asian-American Studies, and Community Development. She has a passion for travel photography and loves to meet new people and explore new places. She is continuing her studies in Athens and is excited to get to know the vibrant city.
Fokia Kitsou Fokia is an intern at Insider and also a student at the Technological Educational Institution of Athens. She studies Graphic &GUKIP CPF UJG YCPVU VQ EQPVKPWG JGT UVWFKGU KP VJG Ć’GNF QH HCUJKQP FGUKIP 5JG YCU DQTP CPF TCKUGF KP #VJGPU YJKEJ UJG adores. She loves fashion, art and has a passion to explore different places in and around Greece and Europe.
John Zervos John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes, reminisces of smoky rembetika bars and elegant Kolonaki women brunching at Zonar’s and recounts the story of Athens as few do.
Stella Sevastopoulos Since moving to Greece in 1994, Stella Sevastopoulos has been art critic and English Editor for ‘The Art Magazine’, and also served as Arts Editor for ‘Athens News’ for 8 years. She wrote her MA thesis on ‘Oscar Wilde and Hellenism in Victorian England’. To read more about art in Athens, visit Stella’s blog at www.artsceneathens.com
2 insider athens | January - February 2016
insider athens | January - February 2016 3
A Silent Hope
16
Sisters are doing it for Themselves Sisters are doing it for Themselves
The Seduction List
Your Room or Mine?
The Seduction List
12
16
We celebrate the stunning work of one of our favourite photographers, Petros Koublis, as he captures the humble beauty and mysteries of Greece.
The World at your Feet
22
Join Caroline Olsen as she takes a stroll down Nikis Street, one of the capital’s most international addresses.
The Lycabettus Set
20
John Zervos recalls the Lycabettus Hill of his childhood and memorable meals at the legendary Paradissos with a young Leonard Cohen.
Astoria: New York’s Best Little Horio
4 insider athens | January - February 2016
14
Check in to one of the exciting new crop of stylish boutique hotels that are transforming Athens’ Downtown precinct – and catering to every mood, taste and budget.
A Silent Hope
26
12
Don’t miss Insider’s fool-proof guide to striking the right romantic note this February 14. HINT: it doesn’t involve flowers!
8
Astoria: New York’s Best Little Horio
8
Somalian supermodel and feminist campaigner Waris Dirie is the inspiration behind the outstanding Elles exhibition, writes Stella Stevastopoulos.
26
Sherri Moshman Paganos conveys the sights, sounds and smells of a vibrant Greek community that’s miles away from home.
AUSTRALIA SPECIAL
The Diplomacy of Distance
28
Amanda Dardanis settles in for a chat – and a meat pie – with Australia’s amiable Ambassador to Greece, /T ,QJP )TKHƒP
Kaleidoscope
72
Diplomatic Dining Oz Style
31
Rustle up a delicious Aussie Squid Pasta this month, as part of our regular series on what Diplomats serve at home.
A Couple of Good Sports
28
32
Insider meets the Fabulous Fisher Brothers the Aussie duo behind the successful Athens $CEMRCEMGTU CPF Ć’PFU QWV VJG UCWE[ UGETGVU QH Room 21!
Winter Wellness
36
Five Great Winter Warmers to help you throw off the Big Chill and feel uplifted this February.
An Orange Juice and Two Squid, Please!
40
John Carr, author of Greekisms for Dummies, gets to grips with the tricky Hellenic tongue!
20 Sure Signs you’ve become Greek! 42
36 20 Sure Signs you’ve become Greek!
42
If you’ve started clapping when your flights lands safely, you need to take our special “How Greek are You?� check-list!
The Comeback Beads
SECTIONS Arts & Events
04
Fast Lane
10
Cityscope
22
Greek Life
26
Diplomacy
28
Business
32
Gastronomy
31
Wellness/Travel 36 Fave Five
48
Kaleidoscope
72
44
The kolomboi – traditionally beloved by taxi drivers and kafenia regulars – is now the new hobby of a strung-out younger generation, reports Amanda Dardanis.
Fave Five: Downtown Dining
48
Get yourself down to one of the capital’s hot new dining dens this February.
Brunching a la Ellinika
50
Where to go for the best Greek-style brunch in town, once you’ve grown weary of mediocre Eggs Benedict imitations and watery mimosas. Cover image by: Shutterstock
insider athens | January - February 2016 5
arts&events 14TH DAY ART SPACE Intimate A thrilling and multi-dimensional contemporary dance spectacle - somewhere between dream and reality – that merges physical theatre, contemporary dance and visual landscapes to the soundtrack of live electronics. Plefsis’ new performance, “Intimate”, draws inspiration from G. Bachelard’s classic book The Poetics of Space. On stage, the two performers, like grown-up children that play in the sand, create images through interacting and struggling with various materials and objects that surround us in everyday life. Gradually they come face to face with the perplexities of existence: dream and reality, memory and oblivion, time and decay, life and death. Tickets priced between €5-10.
Dance Until April 24
Kallirrois 10, Athens, 210.921.0077
Photography
GAGOSIAN GALLERY Peter Lindbergh
February
3 4-April 2
February 20
See Monica Bellucci and other potent images by acclaimed German-born photographer Peter Lindbergh - famous for his iconic black and white portraits of women - and That 1990 Vogue cover of Naomi, Cindy, Christy et al - at the Gagosian Gallery’s solo exhibition. Lindbergh’s evocative editorial work for glossy style bibles including Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar draws inspiration from early narrative cinema and street photography; his subjects are often characterised by minimalist make-up, simple clothes and a pared-back colour scheme. Spanning the last thirty years, VJG GZJKDKVKQP VGUVKƒGU VQ .KPFDGTIJŨU KORCEV QP the world of fashion photography, and his contribution to portraiture in general. Merlin 3, tel 210.364.0215, www.gagosian.com
GAZARTE Al Di Meola
Music
Rock out with acclaimed New Jersey-born jazz guitarist, Al Di Meola, as he presents his new album “Elysium” and a retrospective of his most popular songs at a one-off performance on Saturday, February 20 at 10pm. As Di Meola undergoes a creative renewal, audiences can anticipate songs from his 40-year-long career: classic and new compositions, his own version of Beatles, tango by Piazzola and many more surprises. Tickets range from €29 (for standing) to €50 and are available from viva.gr, Public or www.gazarte.gr Voutadon 32-34, Kerameikos, 210.345.2277, www.gazarte.gr
6 insider athens | November - December 2015
Until Feb. 14
BENAKI MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART Jamal: The Silk Road See paintings celebrating one of history’s most poetic and emblematic trade routes, the Silk Road, which connected China to the West for centuries, until the New World was discovered and new paths trodden. Fifteen works by Jamal, a Yemeni-born artist from Syria, convey the myths and charm of the silk, the people, the risks of the road, and the artist’s main powerful motif of Arabian horses running through the deserts. Aghion Asomaton 22 & Dipilou, 210.325.1311, www.benaki.gr
Until March 20
Exhibitions 21 Nov. 31 Jan. MUSEUM OF THE CITY OF ATHENS Paris de Nonda A tribute to a great shining light of the school of Paris, Nonda (Epaminondas Papadopou-Ios), one of the few Greeks to receive a scholarship from the French government to attend the Ecole De Beaux Arts in the late 40’s. He was well known for his outdoor installations under the Pont Neuf bridge – alongside his unconventional use of cow’s blood as a medium. As writer and poet Francis Carco said of him: “The ardor, the ardor of this young painter ... testify to a rare temperament.”
S.G. ART GALLERY The Woman of Guernica Pablo Picasso’s most mysterious muse, Dora Maar, stages her life and love with the great painter during the German occupation in this tour de force performance by Polina Gionaki, every Sunday at 8pm. The show is presented with English subtitles. Tickets are €10 and include a glass of wine. Kleomenous 2, 210.729.0875, www.slglycabettus.gr
Vouros-Eutaxias Foundation, Paparrigopoulou 5-7, 210.323.1397, www.athenscitymuseum.gr
24 March 16 - April
The spirit of Broadway is alive and well at the Badminton Theater this Spring with one of Bob Fosse’s most-loved musicals, Sweet Charity (featuring Broadway gems Hey, Big Spender and If They Could See Me Now). The play is about the adventures of unlucky-in-love taxi dancer Charity Hope Valentine (played by Shirley MacLaine in the 1969 hit movie release). Performances run from March 16-April 24. Ticket prices range from €8-30, and are on sale at www.abcd.gr. Zografou, 210.884.0600, www.badmintontheater.gr
Theatre
BADMINTON THEATER Sweet Charity
insider athens | January - February 2016 7
arts&events Until Feb. 28
B&M THEOCHARAKIS FOUNDATION Pablo Picasso - Jean Cocteau: Innovators of Modernism John Lennon had Paul McCartney; Sydney Pollack had Robert Redford. And Jean Cocteau had Pablo Picasso. The creative – often subversive - bond between Picasso and Cocteau is the theme of this dynamic exhibition. Spanning CNOQUV JCNH C EGPVWT[ VJG VYQ CTVKUVUŨ RTQNKƒE EQNlaboration played a vital role in the Modernism Movement. The showcase is a collaboration between Kunstmuseum Pablo Picasso Mßnster, the Foundation B. & M. Theocharakis & John Collection Kontaxopoulou and comprises 190 representative paintings, sculpture, pottery, drawings and artistic versions of the innovative artists.
Exhibitions Until April 29 GEORGE ECONOMOU Opening the Box: Unpacking Minimalism A nuanced tale of Minimalism told via ten striking works from the George Economou Collection that strives to dispel popular notions of /KPKOCNKUO -G[ RKGEGU KPENWFG C OCIPKĆ’EGPV 1978 brushed aluminium “channelâ€? piece by Donald Judd; a 1988 plank by John McCracken; a rare work by Dan Flavin constructed with red fluorescent lamps to address the violence of the Vietnam War; and Roni Horn’s two-part cast glass sculpture that links to the tragic and romantic poles of Billie Holiday’s music. /HRIRURV .LͧVLDV www.thegeorgeeconomoucollection.com
Enjoy the thrill of ice-staking at the Megaron’s allweather rink until the end of February: 375 square metres of skating surface in a tent-enclosed space in the Atrium; while parents can enjoy a snack or beverage in a refreshment area next to the rink. Entry is ₏10 for unlimited time and includes skate rental. Private lessons are also available. 9DVVLOLVVLV 6RͧDV DQG .RNNDOL www.megaron.gr
8 insider athens | January - February 2016
Until February 29
Seasonnal
MEGARON Ice Arena
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Until April 08 PSYCHICO MUNICIPAL ART GALLERY The House of Sleep The plight of refugees in situ and Greece’s EWTTGPV RQNKVKECN UQEKCN CPF ƒPCPEKCN UKVWCtion are explored in tandem by Iranian artists Katayoun Karami and Neda Razavipour, in The House of Sleep,� a poignant exhibition at the Psychico Municipal Art Gallery. The house and the land is the main theme of this display: as for most people, carrying a piece of their land makes them feel that they carry a precious piece from home. Kokkoni 15, 210.671.7097
insider athens | January - February 2016 9
Art
Somalian supermodel and Desert Flower Waris Dirie is the inspiration behind the outstanding “Elles� exhibition, writes Stella Stevastopoulos ‘SISTERS are doing it for themselves’, also in the sphere of art. This is evident in the rise of ‘Girl Wonders’ and the rise in value of their work.The Frissiras Museum’s outstanding current show ‘Elles’, celebrates history’s recently unsealed fountain of female creativity (from the 1950s to the present day), by showcasing the work of 67 women from the museum’s collection of 3,500 works. Avid art lover and collector Vlassis Frissiras felt this was the best way to celebrate the museum’s 15th anniversary.
Waris Dirie
The common factor that unites all of the collection, is its anthropocentric nature – with paintings focusing often on the problems, passions, plus pleasures of human existence. It is no surprise therefore that Frissiras would also be sensitive towards women’s issues: “Waris Dirie’s ‘Desert Flower’ was the trigger behind ‘Ellesâ€?, the once ferociously active lawyer, explains to ‘Insider’. Apart from collecting art, post retirement he’s also taken a deep dive into books. “Dirie (the Somalian supermodel and feminist campaigner against female genital mutilation) had a profound effect on me. The idea that someone can abuse a woman in such a way – how can we tolerate the abuse of women? This is why I decided to dedicate my next show to womankind.â€? From Filopoulou’s naked swimmers in azure waters to Shi’s photographically realistic gigantic portraits, to Papadimitriou’s Klimt-inspired golden aestheticism – there’s plenty to tantalize the senses and stimulate the mind. Society is criticized and analysed in Glowaka’s work ‘Rich Bitch I’, Djurdjevic’s depiction of old age and Kastori’s work ‘Homeless’, while a fairy tale turns surreal in Georgiopoulou’s ‘Snow White and the Seven Dwarves’. Quite a few portraits of Frissiras are included, each of them different, but all of them focusing on his piercing black eyes. But that’s just a miniscule glance at what you’ll see at ‘Elles’. /C[DG QPG EQWNF UC[ VJCV VJG RGTUQP YJQ GORQYGTGF YQOGP CTVKUVU KP VJG Ć’TUV RNCEG YCU .KPFC 0QEJNKP VQIGVJGT YKVJ 5WVJGTNCPF *CTTKU UJG QTICPK\GF VJG Ć’TUV GZJKDKVKQP of all-female work (by 83 artists), in America, 1976. Nochlin’s essay ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’ back in 1971, questioned why there weren’t any womens’ names up there at the top, next to the likes of Picasso. The ground-breaking, feminist, art historian discussed how the whole institution of art has for many years made sure that this was an exclusive men’s club. Consider only that for the most part of the 19th century, women artists were hard to come by in art schools and furthermore, they were not allowed to participate in life drawing lessons, because they would have to encounter a nude model‌ Consider also, that here in Greece, the Athens School of Fine Arts started accepting female students in 1910. “When I see a work of art I am not concerned whether it is made by a man or a woman, or if they are famous, I am just concerned with if it has the prerequisites to become part of the museum’s collectionâ€?, states Frissiras, who believes that art is genderless today. The Frissiras collection comprises the work of 300 artists, 70 of which are women. “In the Renaissance and before, female artists were non-existentâ€?, he explains. “Woman’s ‘sacred role’ during motherhood, will take up quite a lot of her time. The more kids, the more time,â€? explains Frissiras. Many in the art world are therefore cautious on investing in womens’ art. Frissiras replies to this argument: “You can’t discriminate between the sexes. You can’t act barbarically to women who are the ‘tree of life’. It’s unacceptable in modern day societyâ€?.
‘Elles’ runs until June 30 at the Frissiras Museum 7 Monis Asteriou St, tel 210.323.4678, www.frissirasmuseum.com
10 insider athens | January - February 2016
Any visitor to the ‘Elles’ show however, will understand, that the art world is changing because its women – like the flowers that they are – are blossoming. The outstanding RCKPVKPIU FKURNC[ C RQUVOQFGTP UGPUKDKNKV[ KP C RTQNKĆ’E TCPIG QH UV[NGU CPF UWDLGEV OCVVGT proving that it’s worth investing in women, whatever the cost.
insider athens | January - February 2016 11
Noble Nobel acts of humanity
Black and Gold sophistication for a grande dame! The Astir Palace presented its new corporate identity with a new ad campaign and website that highlights its cosmopolitan legacy and its golden years when the Astir was a playground for the stars, synonymous with timeless luxury. Two sepia-tinted Astir movies, created by McVictor & Hamilton starring Tonia Sotiropoulou (the sultry Bond girl of Skyfall fame) draw on the lives and styles of the ultimate ‘60s glam duo of Aristotle Onassis and Jackie O. With a logo in rich black and gold, the premium character of the Astir property, stretched across 75 acres of sun-drenched gardens on a pinedotted peninsula, comes through loud and clear. If anything, this PR exercise draws attention away from years of negative speculation on the property’s fate and is a bold new step to catapult it COQPIUV VJG YQTNFŨU Ć’PGUV NWZWT[ JQVGNU www.astir-palace.com
12 insider athens | January - February 2016
#P [GCT QNF [KC[KC 'OKNKC -COXKUK CPF Ć’UJGTOCP 5VTCVKU 8CNKCmos are among the Nobel Peace Prize nominees this year. Kamvisi’s flash of fame came after she and two friends aged 89 and 85 were photographed bottle feeding a Syrian baby last autumn, as they helped refugees who had survived the treacherous boat journey from Turkey. Four months later, she is among three people nominated for the Nobel prize to symbolically represent the “behavior and attitude of Greece, organizations and volunteers towards the huge refugee crisis.â€? Fisherman Stratis Valiamos, who has rescued scores of refugees from drowning, and Hollywood actress Susan Sarandon, who spent Christmas helping refugees in Greece, were also nominated by Greek academics and the Hellenic Olympic Committee. The experts also named actress Susan Sarandon as an example of one of the many international volunteers who have traveled to the Greek islands to help in the relief effort. Sarandon visited Lesbos in December, and spent Christmas on the island documenting the struggles of the displaced. She chronicled her thoughts and experiences in “The Crossing,â€? an immersive storytelling project by The *WHĆ’PIVQP 2QUV CPF 4;16 PGYU
Experimenting with the future
Out of this world! The X-Files have been re-opened ‌ and we haven’t been this excited about a television comeback since Rob Lowe walked the corridors of power in the West Wing. With chilly nights still upon us, what could be more perfect than a cosy Tuesday evening in catching up with old friends? Mulder & Scully. Walter Skinner. The Smoking Man. They’re all back. X-Files VJG ƒTUV VKOG CTQWPF YCU RWTG )GPGTCVKQP : #PF HQT VJQUG QH WU who still harbor such fond X-Files memories, how great is it to see them again?
Having intervened from Hong Kong to Las Vegas in anything and everything that could be considered public space, the celebrated visual artist, Candy Chang comes to Athens with three of her siteURGEKĆ’E KPUVCNNCVKQPU 75 DQTP VQ 6CKYCPGUG RCTGPVU %CPF[ %JCPI has compared intervening bin the public space as ‘setting up a hybrid board game designed for mass participation in the heart of the city.’ Thanks to this artistic modus vivendi in which art flirts with activism, Chang’s large-scale participatory installations both blur the boundaries between public and private and give passers-by the opportunity to spontaneously interact with and ask questions about her works. In the words of Oprah Winfrey, the guru of American talk-shows: “Through a series of large-scale projects which combine installation art with activism, Chang has encouraged people to engage with public spaces and let their voice be heardâ€?. Look out for Chang’s exhibition School of the Future which runs from 8 February - 6 March 2016. The classroom reinterpreted without VGCEJGTU DQQMU QT RWRKNU 8KUKVQTU Ć’PF VJGOUGNXGU KP C URCEG YKVJ a school desk at one end surrounded by thousands of big, red balloons. They are invited to write down a lesson life has taught them in a notebook on the desk. In so doing, the visitors become teachers and students at one and the same time: by taking part in a school of collective experience in which the shared encyclopaedia of knowledge consists of the lessons of their individual lives, they can teach but they can also learn. www.sgt.gr
So, what’s the verdict on X-Files Re-booted? Well, despite the fact that nearly 15 years on, Dana Scully (Gillian Anderson) now sports a face so suspiciously smooth, she’s beginning to resemble one of those extraterrestrials she’s always denying the existence of – (David Duchovny meanwhile could pass for Gordon Ramsay’s younger brother) – the tense chemistry between the two co-stars is still one of the very best things about the series. X-Files 2016 also seems to segue more neatly with our present day mood of post-9-11 government conspiracy theories and our terrorism-fed fear culture. As one self-confessed X-File nerd tweeted: “X-Files 2016 is a bowl of warm, nourishing, nostalgic soup.� Yes, some of the plot devices linking the past with the present do feel a bit clunky. But it will take more than that to keep us away every Tuesday! X-Files screens Tuesdays at 21.50 on Fox.
More beds in the city Athens’ downtown landscape is being transformed by a number of stylish new hotel openings (see our report, page 14), with even more exciting projects in the pipeline for 2016: The former building of the Ministry of Education and Religious Affairs, at the top of Mitropoleos Street, will soon be transformed into a 5-star hotel of 220 rooms, created by architect Patroklou Darantinou and the Electra group (opening in 2016). In addition to a pool, a spa and several restaurants, the hotel will also host seminars and conferences. Also in 2016, the Fashion House Hotel, a 4-star hotel in Pireos Street, close to Omonia Square, will reopen as a refurbished 117-room property, under the management of Mage Hotels and Resorts. Two other projects in progress include: the former Hotel Athens Lycabettus, Valaoritou Street, whose owner, the Archbishop of Athens, took over the building lease procedure; and a stately neoclassical building occupied for 40 years by the Chydiroglou House on the corner of Mitropoleos and Kapnikareas, soon to be re-invented by Grecotel.
insider athens | January - February 2016 13
For all those fellows who think that Flowers + Females = Happiness, guess again! Recent polls LEZI JSYRH XLEX ǼSVEP KIWXYVIW EGXYEPP] JEPP FSXXSQ of the list of what women really want from their partners on Valentine’s Day. (With romantic dinners
and “time away from the kids” being the best way to melt hearts.) With this in mind, Insider has come up with a fool-proof guide to getting it right this February 14.
The Dinner Date A romantic candlelit dinner à deux consistently tops the class on Valentine’s Day quizzes. And before you even open the menu at Moorings at Vouliagmeni Marina, the glamour of all those svelte yachts and the heady romance of the sea-by-night have already worked their magic. Fresh from a 2015 makeover, this elegant Vouliagmeni institution has never been better. We recommend sticking to a marine theme and dining on delectable sea morsels from the current menu: sea urchin salad with wakame, lime and sesame; shrimps with fennel seeds and ouzo; or the silky crabmeat risotto. Make sure to leave room for the stand-out chocolate soufflé. (Starters are around €8-16, mains €15-25.) For bookings, phone 210.967.0659, 210.896.1310 or visit www.moorings.gr
The Class Act Take her on a Gold Class cinema date and you’ll both feel like Hollywood royalty on the red carpet for the night! Enjoy a complementary pre-movie aperitif - Pimms on our last 2 visits - in the VIP Gold Class lounge, where an attendant politely informs you when the ƒNO KU CDQWV VQ UVCTV UQ [QW FQPŨV OKUU VJG UJQYЏ 1TFGT C DQVVNG QH wine and some movie treats to share during the screening. They’ll be delivered by a waiter as you recline on your ridiculously comfy, super-sized La-z-Boys. Trust us, once you’ve gone Gold Class, you’ll never look back. It’s a bit like turning left instead of right as you enter the aeroplane. And at just €20 a ticket, well worth the ride. Village Cinema Gold Class is available at Village Faliro (210.948.5200) and The Mall (210.610.4100). Check www.villagecinemas.gr for listings and screening times.
14 insider athens | January - February 2016
Sharing is Caring Satisfy her desire for “me time” with a blissful massage – for you both. The Orloff Spa at Astir Beach has come up with the perfect formula to help stoke a loving mood this Valentine’s Day. During February, book a luxurious full Polynesian Body Massage (55 minutes) for two people, and pay a special reduced price of €110, instead of €170. The experience can be enjoyed either together or separately – depending on how much “me time” she really does need! - and includes exclusive Cinq Mondes oil products and traditional Polynesian-style hot stones. Buy any Cinq Mondes product while there and you’ll also receive a beautiful 50ml Orange Blossom gift spray. Call 210.896.0028 or visit www.orloffdayspa.gr to reserve your treatments.
Your Heart on a String
Naughty and Nice
This beautiful rose-gold “heart4heart” bracelet from Folli Follie – inspired by the super-popular string tie bracelets - gets our vote for three reasons: It’s feminine. It’s undeniably romantic. But at €70, it won’t break the bank, like some other Valentine’s trinkets, either. (Leaving him enough funds for the other things on our list!) Locate your nearest Folli Follie store on www.follifollie.gr
Nothing is as powerfully seductive as the idea of spending the closing hours of Valentine’s Day locked away in a lavish hotel bedroom. In your own city. Pristine, plump-pillowed double bed begging to be rumpled, jacuzzi suites, couple’s massages at the hotel’s awardwinning spa and an aphrodisiac tasting menu with wine or whiskey pairings - these are just a few of the Life Gallery’s propositions to WR VJG TQOCPEG CPVG FWTKPI [QWT UVC[ &KPG ƒTGUKFG CV VJG -QQN .KHG restaurant and snuggle over breakfast in bed. A late check-out at 3 pm and 30% discounts only sweeten the deal further! Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400, lifegallery.gr
Candy is dandy, but liquor is quicker If you haven’t made a reservation for Valentine’s Day by now, head to Vinarte where you can have it all: ambiance, wine and a few moreish bites.Vinarte’s charming, Italian rusticity and flickering candles make it easy to feel just the right side of tipsy, even if you’re sober. Fortunately, all this sexiness comes with a serious wine list that offers an appreciative nod to small producers of Italy, and a menu offering a host of Italian small plates perfect for stimulating the mood - if the setting hasn’t already. Vinarte, Maragkou 18, Glyfada Tel: 210.894.1511
insider athens | January - February 2016 15
City Life
8LIWI EVI I\GMXMRK XMQIW JSV XLI &XLIRW LSXIP PERHWGETI &JXIV ǻZI TEMRJYP ]IEVW SJ GVMWMW ERH XLI GPSsure of several hotels, appetite for accommodation in the Greek capital is now soaring. Especially in the downtown precinct connecting Syntagma Square to Omonia and Athens’ famous archeological sites. Enter a fresh new breed of inner-city bolthole, catering for every style, mood and budget. Introducing the New Kids on the Block:
ATHENS WAS
Right in the hub of picture-perfect Thission, is this very welcome addition to bustling Dionisiou Areopagitou street (opened last April). Athens Was, the new 4-star hotel of Anemi Hotels group and member of Design HotelsTM, is a perfect convergence of hipster and Epicurean elements. Such as psychedelic zebra-inspired carpets, scarlet leather tub chairs, and retro “Mad Men-inspired” wet bars. Admire the Acropolis’ ever-changing light show over cocktails up on the hotel’s cosy roof terrace, while taking in the wonderful works of Stefanos Stamios, who has a permanent exhibit at Athens Was, featuring photographs from the Archeological Museum. Athens Was is the perfect base for your Thission wanderings. Dionysiou Areopagitou Str 5, 210.924.9954, www.athenswas.gr
GRECOTEL PALLAS
Hotel Grecotel Pallas
16 insider athens | January - February 2016
This downtown boutique hotel, with the Goddess Athena as its resident muse, is garnished with zany modern art and original paintings to enliven your urban stay. Each of the hotel’s 63 rooms is like a mystery flight: with walls decorated with everything from forests and mountains to cartoon heroes and Smurfs, while more sedate rooms may feature the odd blue hippo or green pig! Located steps from the Monastiraki traditional markets, the Ermou shopping precinct, and minutes from the Acropolis, Pallas Athena Boutique Hotel puts you right in the thrum of it all. The sophisticated lounge bar and restaurant overlooks Kotzia Square, with outstanding dishes sourced from the hotel’s farm in Crete. Athinas 65, Athina, 210. 325.0900, www.grecotelpallasathena.com
IN(N) ATHENS
A beautiful landmark building, mere moments from Syntagma Square and the never-sleeping Ermou, with the crown jewel of a tranquil inner courtyard to soothe away any urban overload. After a full day’s shopping or sight-seeing, nothing will seem more alluring than relaxing in this loveN[ RNCPV ƒNNGF URCEG #V LWUV TQQOU KP P #VJGPU KU FGNKIJVHWNN[ EQOpact, with a chic and elegant design that brings together Hellenic marble and steel in wonderful aesthetic harmony. Georgiou Sourri 3 & Filellinon, 210.325.8555, www.innathens.com
COCO-MAT
Hotel InnAthens
Opening any day now is the newest member of the effortlessly chic CocoMat family in a renovated 1935 structure in upscale Kolonaki (joining the )TGGM NWZWT[ DGFFKPI EQORCP[ŨU GZKUVKPI 0CHUKMC *QVGN KP -KĆ’UUKC 6JG hotel will have 38 rooms and suites, as well as a Coco-Mat store in the lobby. Characteristic curves, staircase and frames have been preserved throughout, with sliding cedar panels allowing visitors to regulate sunlight. Guests will also encounter a fresh spin on the hotel concept with an “honesty kitchenâ€? where customers can help themselves, and a philosophy of “coming down from their rooms for breakfast in their robes and slippersâ€?. Distilled Coco-Mat. Patriarchou Ioakeim 36, Kolonaki, www. coco-mat-hotels.com
ATHENS STATUS SUITES
Hotel Status Athens
Make downtown your playground at the Athens Status Suites. Just a few months old, this cheerful and good-value property is located bang between Syntagma and Monastiraki neighbourhoods, (about 200m from the Syntagma metro). All rooms have an eye-catching avant garde dÊcor – but its greatest asset by far is a showstopper of a rooftop restaurant sportKPI OCIPKƒEGPV #ETQRQNKU XKGYU 28 Petraki Str, Athens, Plaka, 210.331.4782, www.athensstatus.com
insider athens | January - February 2016 17
Photography
Insider celebrates the stunning art of Petros Koublis Greek photographer Petros Koublis captures ethereal images of the humble beauty and mystery, tucked away in the vast landscapes around us. These exquisite snapshots were all taken within an hour or so of Athens, can you believe?
A forest near the village of Klitoria, under the Aroania mountains in Peloponesse.
18 insider athens | January - February 2016
insider athens | January - February 2016 19
Photography
A little horse at the shore by the ancient city of Rhamnous, in Marathon
A bush bloomed with little red grapes, in the area of Marathon
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“
There is no beauty that is timeless. But the timelessness of nature GER VIǼIGX E RI[ HMVIGXMSR QE]FI IZIR E LSTI It’s not a blissful silence but it’s an inspiring one.” Petros Koublis
insider athens | January - February 2016 21
City Life
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Much like London’s famous Bloomsbury Set - or Paris in the 1930s - Kolonaki’s Lycabettus Hill in the mid 20th century was a rich enclave of artistic and intellectual life, writes John Zervos. He describes the Lycabettus of his childhood and dinners at the Paradissos with a young Leonard Cohen.
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22 insider athens | January - February 2016
I
t’s raining hard and the taxi is slipping and sliding up Aristipou Street on its way to the funicular on Mt. Lycabettus. My guest is about to be treated to a panoramic, albeit rainy, view of the city from the Athenian balcony of St. George’s chapel. The entrance to the funicular is about half- way up the hill, a ten-minute walk from Kolonaki square. In the 1940’s we lived on the slopes in an old house on Anagnostopoulou street, before being displaced by an errant shell that shattered our living room and our lives. The hill and pathways up to the monastery were dotted with neo-classical houses, built among the dwarf pine trees. There was no tramway, but to the right of today’s entrance was an old flat-roofed house, belonging to the Grillos family; it was the highest house in Athens. Downstairs it had a loom, the garden had a well, and a smaller house tucked away in the back. The upstairs open terrace looked out on the Acropolis, the Saronic Gulf, Aegina and Mt. Hymettus. In 1961 an American physicist called Ron Geller rented the house: I was young, and fresh as mint, and Ron opened an American window in my mind. He introduced me to Robert Frost, he told me of a young singer called Bob Dylan, of the soprano folk singer Joan Baez, he spoke of 12 string guitars, blues musicians and the poetry of high energy physics; his Greek friends included Constantine Tsoukalas, a Greek historian and Phroso Doxiadi, who later published the ‘’Portraits of Fayyum,”. Ron invited me to the States; I arrived in the summer of 1963 on the day that Martin Luther King, was giving his “I have a Dream” speech in Washington, DC.
“
Here we used to meet with Thanos :IPSYHMSW XLI ǝVWX ,VIIO ;SVPH ;EV I pilot, and a young Canadian singer called Leonard Cohen, who lived on Hydra with his wife Marianne.�
5 Five years later, I returned to the house on Mt. Lycabettus. Although the funicular had been built, Aristipou street was still a dirt track. Many of the older houses had been replaced with residential high-rises. Grillos’ house had been rented to an Australian architect, turned artist, called Robert Dahncke; other artists and foreigners lived in nearby houses; Chris Gear, from England, Michael Piller from Oregon, who specialized in paintings of apes; Michel and Francoise Roux, Judy and Allen Efstathiou, from the Boston Museum School; novelist Peter Dreyer and his wife Mariika, exiles from South Africa; Gilbert Horobin, travel writer, author Peter Main, poets, Alan Ansen, Jimmy Merrill, Chester Caulman, Sinclair Beilles; a young Greek actor, called Petros Fissoun; an ephemeral character, called Princess Zina Roschefsky, VJGP OCTTKGF VQ VJG ƒNO OCMGT QH ŧŨ5KFCTVWTŨŨ %QPTCF 4QQMU &QP Munson an American from Boston, who distinguished himself by OCMKPI OCIPKƒEGPV OGCNU QP VJG VGTTCEG OWEJ CU JG FKF [GCTU NCVGT in his Knightsbridge home to the likes of Ava Gardner, John Richardson and others. Don Munson cooked because he enjoyed the food as well as showing his guests how to prepare complicated dishes with ease.
When not eating on the terrace we scrambled to the side of the hill to Zois’ two-room taverna. She had her own barrel of wine, and food was whatever she had made for her husband Costas and her one son who worked in the bank. For more sophisticated evenings, we trooped down to Paradissos taverna, beside the now St. George Lycabettus Hotel. The steaks were outrageously priced at 28 drch. Here we used VQ OGGV YKVJ 6JCPQU 8GNQWFKQU VJG Ć’TUV )TGGM 9QTNF 9CT + RKNQV CPF a young Canadian singer called Leonard Cohen, who lived on Hydra with his wife Marianne. Visitors were many and varied. Umberto Velanzuela from the American Embassy used to ‘’slumâ€? on the terrace with his neatly creased jeans, watching the parade. One afternoon it’s an American, Eric Solebake back from the Bodgaya monastery in India. He is chanting Homer, which is all he is allowed to do in his two-year vow of silence. Another long-term resident, Penny Midgely an ex -English CTO[ QHĆ’EGT CPPQWPEGU UJG KU NGCXKPI JGT QPG NGIIGF DQUU YJQ runs a crop dusting business, to work as a PA for Stanley Sieger, a wealthy American living on the opposite hill, in Mets, in a building coowned by collector Harry Blackmer. I used to see Penny in London and was happy when she told me that Stanley had given a grant to his alma mater Princeton University. The Sieger Fund brings many princetonians to Athens to study Greek and things Greek. It was an unusual conglomeration of Greeks and foreigners. There was something special about being there at that time; but in 1971 the Grillos house was torn down, Aristipou street was paved for the residents of the new high-rises, Zoi died, the Paradissos taverna closed, and along with it, an era akin to Paris in the thirties. The cab stops at the funicular entrance, we get out, and I look up. My friend asks: “Is there someone you know up there?’’ I turn to him and say, ‘’Not anymoreâ€? and hurry in to get out of the rain. -RKQ =HUYRV LV WKH GLUHFWRU RI WKH $WKHQV &HQWUH D SUROLͧF SXEOLF VSHDNHU and chronicler of the city’s changing face.
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1. Lycabettus Hill in the Fifties 2. Australian architect and artist 1967 Robert Dahncke 3. American poet James Merrill ( left) in Athens 1968 4. Alan Ansen,American poet, literary secretary to WH. Auden, in Athens 1969 7KH =RQDUV FDIH LQ WKH ͧIWLHV 6. Beat poet Gregory Corso ( left) with South African poet Sinclair Beiles 1968
insider athens | January - February 2016 23
24 insider athens | January - February 2016
City Life
A
decade ago, Thisseon’s Nikis Street was a non-descript JWD HQT VQWTKUO QHƒEGU 0QY KVŨU QPG QH VJG ECRKVCNŨU OQUV cosmopolitan and international enclaves – and a heaven for foodies of every persuasion, discovers Caroline Olsen. Nikis Street is a rapidly evolving avenue nestled in the heart of the scenic Thisseon area, a short walk from Syntagma or the Acropolis. Packed with fashionable new eateries and interesting boutiques, you could easily eat at a different place every day for a fortnight! Best of all, Nikis Street is just far away from the well-trodden tourist track to retain a wonderfully cosy, neighbourhood vibe. The fun starts at The Attic Black Shop (50A Nikis & 6 Kyathineon, 210.323.2005, atticblack.com), a contemporary ceramics retailer that’s a cut above many Plaka shops that cater mainly for the flyby-tourist. At Attic Black, each piece is an exact replica of an ancient ceramic, made with the same materials and technique. This shop lures the more discerning visitor, who comes to unearth a high quality traditional piece and tends to know a little more about ancient Greek ceramics. However, everyday shoppers will still appreciate the beautiful works. Their dolls made in the style of 7th century BC bells traditional to the Boeotia region make superb gifts for ₏43.
Across the street is Asimobrountzo (41 Nikis, 694.503.2564), a gorgeous shop selling handmade jewelry. A resident of Nikis Street for the past 10 years, Asimobrountzo is bursting with trendy bulky rings, bracelets, and necklaces. The colorful rings go for around â‚Ź40 to 50 and are a fantastic souvenir for someone looking for a memorable keepsake of Greece.
Can’t decide between Japanese street food, Indian or Brazilian. Or Gourmet Greek and Vegetarian? Nikis Street has it all. Take a stroll with us down one of Athens’ most international streets.
insider athens | January - February 2016 25
About 50 meters down, the newer string of restaurants begins with the 2 Mazi (48 Nikis, 210.322.2839, 2mazi.gr), a highly-rated gourmet Greek restaurant. The famous young Greek chefs, Giannis Baxevanis and Ilias Gorgos, have collaborated to create a menu inspired by traditional Cretan herbs and novel ingredients. For €45 per person, you can indulge in a tasting menu of the best dishes. The leafy outdoor patio draws tourists and locals alike for drinks and dinner on many a warm night. Continuing along Nikis, a collection of organic, vegan, and free trade shops, restaurants, and a yoga studio have created a sanctuary for like-minded Athenians. Avocado (30 Nikis, 210.323.7878, avocadoathens.com), a vegetarian restaurant that opened four years ago, is one of the few completely vegetarian restaurants in this city of meatworshippers. It’s an offspring of the yoga studio across the street, NYSY Studio, who wanted to provide clients with a completely meat free environment. As one of the few places like it in Athens, they’ve developed a loyal clientele, many of whom return for the delicious veggie burgers (€10.50).
Gr-Eatings (30 Nikis, 210.322.9078, gr-eatings.gr) is a 95% organic shop that neighbors Avocado. Gr-Eatings offers a robust selection of Greek products that are vegan, vegetarian, gluten free, or fair trade. They sell everything from groceries to home goods and cosmetics. Their humane product philosophy creates a welcome synergy with regulars of both Avocado and the yoga studio. Wine Story (21 Nikis, 210.323.9997, winestory.gr) plies specialty, curated products from Greece. They have a wide selection of organic wines and products. Their customers usually come for the olive oil (starting at €7.50), honey (starting at €6.50), and local wines from Nemea and Mantineia (from €8). Wine Story is also great for URGEKCNV[ IKHV DCUMGVU ƒNNGF YKVJ [QWT HCXQWTKVG NQECN QTICPKE )TGGM products, for around €50.
26 insider athens | January - February 2016
City Life
A little further down, Guapa Paella and Cocktail Bar (17 Nikis, 210.325.3994, guapa.gr) offers a taste of Latin cuisine from a Brazilian- Greek chef. Opened just one year ago, Guapa has forged ahead as one of the few Brazilian fusion restaurants in Greece. Especially popular with tourists in the summer, Guapa is hailed for its moreish paella, which is served at â‚Ź9 per person. For a taste of some rare locally brewed beers, Athens Beer (20 Nikis, 210.321.0790, athensbeer.gr) is a microbrewery and restaurant that arrived two years ago. They have a selection of 85 different beers from all over the world and 35 different Greek beers at around â‚Ź5 each. The menu mainly consists of Greek fusion fare and tasty appetizers such as Greek sausage and spring rolls - the perfect accompaniment to your beer explorations. Koi (15 Nikis, 210.321.1099) is a hugely popular, street food-priced sushi restaurant run by traditional Japanese chefs. They offer a sit down restaurant, a bar with a conveyer belt of freshly made sushi to pick from, and a take-out and delivery stand across the street. Most
frequently ordered are the maki, California, spicy shrimp, and spicy crab rolls, starting at ₏2. And just a couple doors down, continuing with the Asian trend, is Babaji Indian Food (11 Nikis, 210.325.4841). The restaurant opened in May and serves up both traditional Indian and Indian fusion with dishes like Indian souvlaki. At the end of Nikis Street, just before you hit Ermou, you’ll encounter the new-age store Magenta (11 Nikis, 210.331.3443, magentashops. com) which imports products from India and England, and where [QW ECP CNUQ ƒPF JCPFOCFG LGYGNT[ RGTUQPCNK\GF VQ [QWT QYP individual energy flow. Meanwhile, Magenta’s Aura-Soma Colour Care System, which consists of equilibrium bottles and scents, pledges to help bring focus back into your life! So if you haven’t already, take our lead and head down Nikis Street soon ‌ you’ll have the world at your feet!
insider athens | January - February 2016 27
Postcard
Sherri Moshman Paganos captures the vibrance of a Greek city miles away from home
I
t’s a cold Saturday afternoon, the second day of the New Year. As the N train from Times Square passes over the Triborough Bridge, you immediately get the feeling that you’re entering a Greek world. A couple is loudly arguing with each other in Greek and a subway rider is reading the Ethnikos Kyrix (National Herald), the 100 year old Greek American newspaper. As the train lumbers its way towards Ditmars Boulevard, the last stop, out the train you can see signs for Odyssey Optical and Zorba’s Souvlaki. After the jostling, bustle and noise of midtown Manhattan, Ditmars Boulevard with its red and beige brick row houses that lead down to the river, is peaceful and serene. Christmas decorations liven up VJG JQWUGU CU FWUM CRRTQCEJGU CPF VJG UM[ ƒNNU YKVJ IQNF CPF RWT-
28 insider athens | January - February 2016
ple sunset colors. As we reach the East River, the wind starts whipping around the leaves in Astoria Park. We stop and admire the view across of nearby Manhattan. The area is mostly quiet except for a few joggers and dogwalkers. Walking back up from the river, after a while, residential Ditmars becomes commercial Ditmars. «Thessaloniki Jewelers» and «Lefko Pirgos,» a traditional zaharoplasteio stand across from each other in the heart of the commercial area. Astoria has become a very desirable area to live, since its rents are much lower and more afforadable than Manhattan, and it’s only a 20 minute subway ride to midtown. For this reason, many young professionals of all nationalities have moved in. Besides the rather young, you have the opposite end of the spectrum, the elderly, mostly Greeks and Italians in their 70’s or 80’s, who have lived in Astoria since the 1960’s or so. One such resident is Alkmini Megisopoulou who has lived on the same street off of Ditmars since 1968, having left Piraeus by ship and arriving 11 days later in Brooklyn. Alkmini and her husband Christos are typical of the aging population, watching over the years many of their friends leave, moving out further in Queens, such as Bayside, or moving further out to Long Island. Some Greeks upon retiring from working in places like the garment district in Manhattan, have returned to Greece, and of course a number of their generation have died. For this reason, the Greek population has greatly diminished in the last 20 years or so. The walls of Alkmini’s and Christos’ row house are covered with framed pictures of their grandchildren. Over coffee and homemade meat and cheese pies, she tells us about some changes that have occurred. Steinway Street and Broadway, two of the main thoroughfares, are more likely to have signs in Arabic than Greek. Everywhere, restaurants have opened representing every kind of nationality. Greek grocery stores can still be found in the area, where she can get her feta, kefalograviera and tarama. Although many different restaurants dot the landscape now, the Greek tavernas arguably draw the most faithful customers. One such restau-
os and the piano company Steinway and Sons, which dates from 1853. The brick row houses in Astoria have been a popular locale for many ƒNOU CPF 68 RTQITCOOGU UWEJ CU VJG KEQPKE UGTKGU HTQO VJG ŨU ŧ#NN KP VJG (COKN[ Ũ 4QDGTV FG 0KTQŨU ƒNO k# $TQPZ 6CNGz YCU CEVWCNN[ ƒNOGF QP NQECVKQP KP #UVQTKC #PF KP ō5GTRKEQŏ YKVJ #N 2CEKPQ VJG GNevated N train is the backdrop for some chase scenes. Astoria boasts C ƒPG OWUGWO CU YGNN 6JG /WUGWO QH VJG /QXKPI +OCIG
rant is Kyklades on Ditmars. Under its blue awning with SEAFOOD in large letters, you can usually see a line of people waiting to eat VJG YQPFGTHWNN[ HTGUJ ƒUJ VJG[ JCXG #PF KV KU UGTXGF VJG YC[ KV KU KP )TGGEG YKVJ VJG JGCF QP PQV ƒNGV #OGTKECP UV[NG Astoria has been known as one of the largest Greek cities outside of Greece, and it traditionally has been a Greek area, but this didn’t hapRGP WPVKN VJG ŨU 6JG ƒTUV TGUKFGPVU KP VJG VJ EGPVWT[ YGTG OQUVly Dutch and Germans. Many Irish came in the 19th and early 20th century. In the 1920’s, the Jewish population grew. The next large immigration there was Italians, and that influence remains today, in the many signs for shops that offer Italian specialties. Italians are proud to point out that Tony Bennett (real name: Anthony Dominick Benedetto) was born and raised in Astoria. The 1960’s brought a large influx of Greeks, and then after the invasion of Cyprus in 1974, many Cypriots settled in the area.
Today, along with Greek, you are just as likely to hear Spanish, Korean, Chinese, Arabic, Hindi or Urdu. But Greek customs have always tended to flourish. In the early 1980’s around Eastertime, a popular commercial on the Greek radio station for Greek travel organizations shouted Pascha ton Ellinon! urging you to go to Greece for Pascha for the real Greek experience. But if you couldn’t get there, then you would surely see on Saturday night Anastasi, people walking home from the church after midnight with their lit candles, and on Easter Sunday, a walk around Astoria, this very urban area, would let you see, smell and taste the cocoretsi (lamb innards) roasting on the souvla. With a little imagination, you could imagine your horio and the whole lamb roasting. As Alkmini says, Astoria is the best place to be without living in Greece itself.
Astoria was named for John Jacob Astor, at one time the wealthiest man in the United States. The reason for this naming is not that he had any connection with Astoria, but it was to persuade him to invest in the area. The naming obviously didn’t move him much, as he gave a paltry $500 out of his fortune of $40 million. However, the name stuck and although he never set foot in the area, he could certainly watch from his home in what is now E. 87th near York Avenue, across the river to his land. In the late 1970’s and early 80’s, my husband, a student then, fondly remembers working at popular catering hall Crystal Palace on Broadway. Used mainly for Greek weddings, baptisms and dances for various Greek associations, it was THE PLACE to go, along with Spilia (the Cave), the bouzoukia under Crystal Palace. There were also many bars where singers got their start. At one such bar, we heard Elly Paspala before she left for Greece to make her career. Ditmars also had OQXKG VJGCVGTU YJKEJ UJQYGF RQRWNCT )TGGM ƒNOU Besides Ditmars and Broadway, one of the other main areas is Steinway Street, named for the Steinway family, famous worldwide for their pian-
insider athens | January - February 2016 29
Diplomacy
As Australians in Athens prepare to celebrate Australia Day, Australia’s Ambassador to Greece, 2V /SLR ,VMǽR WTIEOW I\GPYWMZIP] XS .RWMHIVƶW Amanda Dardanis.
30 insider athens | January - February 2016
AUSTRALIA SPECIAL
“W
We share a pioneering spirit and this concept of co-operating in adversity. Greeks are tough. Because they’ve had to be. They’re at their best when their backs are to the wall.“ HEN capital controls arrived last summer, Australia’s #ODCUUCFQT VQ )TGGEG /T ,QJP )TKHĆ’P YCU QPG QH those fortunate foreigners who still had unimpeded daily access to his funds.
ŧ+ PGXGT VTKGF KV VJQWIJ Ũ #ODCUUCFQT )TKHĆ’P EQPHGUUGU ŧ6JG KFGC QH drawing out large sums of money while Greeks queued behind me for their sixty euros a day just didn’t sit right.’ It’s the famous Aussie “Fair Goâ€? in play. A notion that would appear to frequently motivate this opera-loving, career public servant, who grew up in the dusty rural township of Mackay, in north Queensland.
We are sitting in the light-flooded drawing room of the Ambassador’s modern residence in the leafy enclave of Paleo Psychiko. There’s a generously-sized swimming pool in the back. The public rooms downstairs are dotted with Australiana - Arnotts biscuit tins, an Australian flag ashtray, a copper Two-Up set. The walls sport wonderful local art: the iconic sweeping curve of Sydney Harbor in Wendy Merrington’s Lavender Bay diptych; an earthy Indigenous piece by Don Morton Tjapangardi. ‘Yes, it’s very pleasant, very liveable. But very quiet,’ says Ambassador )TKHĆ’P 1PG UWURGEVU JG OKIJV JCXG RTGHGTTGF C UNKIJVN[ NKXGNKGT NQECNG Kolonaki. Or Kerameikos perhaps. Even so, it all makes me, a fellow Antipodean, rather homesick. More so, when a platter of mini-meat pies materializes mid-interview. ‘We keep an Australian free-lance chef on contract,’ the Ambassador laughs at my obvious appreciation. (Later, he hands over a TupperYCTG EQPVCKPGT Ć’NNGF YKVJ OQTG RKGU VQ VCMG JQOG There is no PR minder sitting in, as is often the case during diplomatic chats. His choice of tie is similarly informal, printed all over with little “tsarouchiaâ€?, the traditional clogs of the Evzones. We’ve had to jostle things around this morning to accommodate his meeting with former Prime Minister Costas Karamanlis, to discuss the dramatic changes to the Opposition leadership (with the succession of Kyriakos Mitsotakis). Later today, he’ll also be talking to the Hellenic Police Force to compare how Australia and Greece have both adjusted their approaches to counter terrorism post-Paris. #ODCUUCFQT )TKHĆ’P YJQUG NCUV RQUVKPI YCU *WPICT[ UVKNN JCU PQP resident accreditation to Romania and Bulgaria. He arrived in Athens in July 2014, in the sunset days of the Samaras government. By his QYP CFOKUUKQP )TGGEG YCU XKTVWCNN[ WPMPQYP VGTTKVQT[ +V YCU JKU Ć’TUV time here - barring a long-ago visit in 1981, made before joining the foreign service, while he was teaching English in Paris. But despite this – and the myriad challenges still faced by this country – Greece has clearly worked its way quickly into this amiable Australian diplomat’s affections. Ambassador, what are the most pressing issues on your agenda at the moment? +ŨXG LWUV Ć’PKUJGF C TQWPF QH EQPUWNVCVKQPU YKVJ )TGGM DCPMGTU VQ IGV C health check on the economy after our roller coaster ride last year and
Queenslanders - Anzac nurses at Lemnos
the recapitalization of the banks. The 2016 prognosis is optimistic but not bullish. The general feeling now is that with the serious political risk of last year hopefully resolved, there’s a degree of normality TGVWTPKPI VQ VJG GEQPQO[ #WUVTCNKC JCU UKIPKĆ’ECPV RCTVPGTUJKRU YKVJ Europe, both economic and strategic, so we want the EU to regain its RTQURGTKV[ CPF EQPĆ’FGPEG &XOWXUDOO\ ZKLFK DĚŠQLWLHV GR \RX EHOLHYH H[LVW EHWZHHQ *UHHFH DQG Australia? We share a pioneering spirit and this concept of co-operating in adversity. Greeks are tough. Because they’ve had to be. They’re at their best when their backs are to the wall. Our shared war history has also forged strong bonds. The most emotional day for Australians is Anzac Day, commemorating the campaign and defeat at Gallipoli. Lemnos was actually the launch pad and hospital station for the attack and a lot of Australians are buried on the island. Greeks remember Australian support during the battle of Crete in the Second World War too, and still volunteer their memories. After the war, there was mass migration of Greeks to Australia. And Greece has been independent for roughly about the same time as European settlement began in Australia ‌ I once asked a Greek parliamentarian why our two countries had evolved so differently, given that very fact. He said: “You’re probably lucky to have been so far away!â€? In your opinion, do Australians feel detached from the issues facing Greece and the EU – or part of a global community despite their distance? The Australian mentality used to be “we’re very very far away from everythingâ€?. It’s the tyranny of distance that’s both a threat and a security buffer. Foreign things happen “over thereâ€?. The Bali bombings in 2002 and 2005 were the big wake up call for many Australians. And now things that happen in Paris, happen in Sydney too (the siege in Martin Place in December 2014). Australians now realise it’s a connected world.
insider athens | January - February 2016 31
Diplomacy
Australia day celebration by greeks in Melbourne
:KDW NLQG RI VHQWLPHQWV KDYH EHHQ H[SUHVVHG WR \RX E\ $XVWUDOLD about Greece’s refugee crisis? Australians are a generous people and when they see images like the drowned little boy on the beach in Turkey (Aylan Kurdi), they want to do something. There’s a Melbourne lifesaver Simon Lewis who’s gone over to Lesvos this month to help rescue people getting into trouble trying to reach the island. And there’s an Australian woman, Melinda McRostie, who basically runs a refugee assistance operation from her taverna in Molyvos. Australia has doubled its annual quota for humanitarian cases. We now have an extra 12,500 places for Syrians. Australia famously has one of the world’s largest diaspora communities of Greeks - around 600,000 - in Melbourne. How does this in̨XHQFH WKH FRQQHFWLRQ EHWZHHQ RXU WZR FRXQWULHV" Melbourne is the third largest Greek community in the world. I’ve heard Greek politicians who come to Australia and are amazed at the excited welcome they get from Greek Australians! This creates a very strong foundation for a diplomatic relationship because the people know and like each other. Ambassador, your posting here coincides with a historically challenging time for Greece. How much has that informed your daily duties and your reports back to Australia? 9JGP VJKPIU YGTG IGVVKPI XGT[ FKHĆ’EWNV NCUV [GCT VJGTG YGTG OCP[ practical conversations about “what do we doâ€? about all the Australians over here; the travelers and the pensioners. (We have about 100,000 Australians living in Greece and 14,000 pensioners whose money comes through the Greek banks, so it was a fraught time.) But we don’t generally follow blow by blow what’s happening in Greece in the same breathless detail as our European friends. We do care about Greece. Its health affects the health of the European Union and Europe is still our largest investment partner and our second largest trading partner after China. And for all of its problems, the EU is still the most successful example in history of rules-based integration and co-operaVKQP #PF YJGP [QW EQPUKFGT YJCV ECOG DGHQTG KP 'WTQRG KVŨU FGĆ’PKVGN[ an achievement worth preserving. Greece is nearing the end of a recessionary period while Australia faces its own struggles on the back of the China slowdown. How do you hope to further trade ties between our two nations? Trade and investment between Greece and Australia has never been very strong. Some of that might have to do with the focus in the Greek business community. Whenever I talk to them about doing business in Australia, they always say, “Oh, it’s too far away!â€? But the Australian economy is something like 70 percent services now. And you don’t
32 insider athens | January - February 2016
need to load services into a ship and sail them around the world. Greece has a lot of under-exploited economic potential. Greek wine and food for instance is fantastic but often not marketed properly. What lessons might Greek businesses learn from the Australian approach? The Australian psyche suffered a big shock when Britain joined the European common market in 1973, and all of those commonwealth preferential trade privileges suddenly disappeared. But we transitioned and transformed large areas of our economy. Now we’ve got niche high-end products in agri-food, tourism, elderly and health care, energy, logistics (because we’re such a big country, we have to be very good at moving things around quickly). Greece needs to do the same thing, I’d suggest. It’s something I’m trying to promote here. What is the best perk of being stationed in Greece? Getting to know the Greeks themselves. They really are wonderful people. Which place in Greece has inspired you most? I don’t usually have a strong historical imagination. When people say things like, “Can’t you hear the rustle of Louis XIV’s silk at Versailles?�, I would always think, “No. I can’t.�. But I found the ruins at Mycenae incredibly evocative and powerful. You really can imagine that the Gods themselves might have been just over the hills. So ... Souvlaki or meat pie? Souvlaki. Because it is an obvious relative of the great Aussie barbecue! And you can’t beat freshly grilled meat! Cricket or water polo? Neither. I’m an opera fan. And I’ve heard some very good singing while I’ve been here in Greece, at venues like the Megaron and the Olympia Theatre. Santorini or Sydney? Santorini is a fantastic place. But Sydney is the best city in the world. It’s a city that’s just wide open. You arrive and begin enjoying yourself straight away. Finally, Ambassador, what would you like your legacy in Greece to be? I want to leave behind and take with me good friendships from Greece; and a positive image of Australia, and its national values. Things like reaching out to groups in need. The famous Aussie “Fair Go�. I want to leave having made a small contribution to nourishing an already rich relationship.
Gastronomy
AUSTRALIA SPECIAL
The wives and partners of Athens’ foreign diplomats reveal their most tried and trusted recipes for elegant entertaining, in our regular series, Diplomatic Dining. This issue: Australia takes centre-stage with a perfectly-pitched HMWL VIǟIGXMRK MXW GYPMREV] HMZIVWMX]
Pasta with Green Curry and Battered Squid with Yellow Curry This recipe is adapted from an entrĂŠe dish served on formal occasions CV VJG 1HĆ’EKCN 4GUKFGPEG QH VJG #WUVTCNKCP #ODCUUCFQT VQ )TGGEG +V KNlustrates the wonderful cultural diversity of modern Australian cuisine, which typically fuses tastes, aromas, and textures of food from vibrant cuisines around the globe. In this dish, for example, we see pasta and pesto-style sauce from Italy, green curry from Thailand, battered seafood from Britain, curry powder influenced by Indian spices, and fresh basil and cherry tomatoes influenced by Greek cuisine.
Ingredients For pasta with green curry: UGTXGU EQQMGF RCUVC VUR ITGGP EWTT[ RCUVG VDUR ƒUJ UCWEG 1 tbsp lemon juice, 4 tbsp olive oil, 1 medium bunch coriander 2 large green lettuce leaves (same amount as coriander) Small amount salt, Small amount vegetable oil for frying For battered squid with yellow curry: 400 gr squid, prepared and cut to bite size 120 ml plain flour, 60 ml corn flour (can be substituted with plain flour) 240 ml water, ½ tsp salt, ½ tbsp curry powder (or to taste) Vegetable oil for deep frying
For the garnish (optional): Basil leaves Cucumber, sliced
Cherry tomatoes Red chilli, sliced
Method To make green curry sauce pesto-style, fry the green curry paste with a pinch of salt in a small amount of vegetable oil on low heat until it becomes fragrant. (Do not let it burn or it will turn bitter.) Leave to cool. 9CUJ VJG EQTKCPFGT CPF NGVVWEG NGCXGU CPF FT[ YGNN VJGP DNGPF Ć’PGN[ KP a blender or a food processor. Add the fried green curry paste and the rest of ingredients. Blend until they combine. To make yellow curry batter, mix all flour and water until smooth, then add salt and curry powder. (Proportion of flour to water can be adjusted to taste.) Dip squid pieces in batter, and deep fry in hot vegetable oil. Turn once. Lift off the pan when golden, and put on paper towels. Continue with the rest of the squid. To serve, toss pasta in a generous amount of green curry sauce. Top with extra sauce, fresh basil leaves and cherry tomatoes. Set battered squid on the side. Decorate with freshly sliced cucumber and red chilli.
insider athens | January - February 2016 33
Business
When Australia Day rolls around every January 26, every self-respecting Aussie in town knows there’s only one party to go to. The Australia Day bash at the Athens Sports Bar, run by Australian brother duo, Daniel and Ed Fisher.
T
he Fisher siblings, brothers also to Hollywood star Isla Fisher, have been in the business of selling fun in Athens since 2004. Their Australian-style backpacker and traveller’s village – comprised of the Sports Bar, Fish Café, and Athens Backpackers – has long been a hub for fun-loving expats across the capital. Dan Fisher talks hotel politics, Ghostbusters – and the saucy secrets of Studio 21! What is it about Athens that attracted you and what keeps you here? Athens always has been, and always will be, an exciting place to be. It’s the sense of freedom that people feel here. The sense that there aren’t too many rules and that you can free wheel a bit. Stay out as late as you like. You go somewhere like Rome and there’s an expectancy about what kind of experience you should have. You almost have to live up to the city, rather than the other way around. But in Athens, our travellers always have the most random experiences! &DQ \RX JLYH XV DQ H[DPSOH" Absolutely. We had an Australian guest come through once who was obsessed with Ghostbusters. He had the Ghostbusters hat, the jacket. He went out one night to Exharchia for a few beers and actually met up with Egon, the guy from Ghostbusters (played by Harold Ramis) and ended up drinking with him all night! That’s the magic of Athens. Australians running businesses in Athens. Is it a very big club? We do feel that we kind of blazed the way for Aussies running businesses here, especially in the bricks and mortar sector. Right from the beginning, we quickly became the default place to go for Aussie Greeks and people with any Aussie connection in Greece. They would gravitate towards the Sports Bar because we show all the major games. Do Australians bring different business strengths to the table in Greece? I think there’s a transparency and an honesty to how Australians do business that’s different to how maybe things happen here on the
34 insider athens | January - February 2016
AUSTRALIA SPECIAL
holiday romances and weddings. We get emails saying, “Thanks so much, I met my wife there�. We’ve had three engagements in room S21 alone. And two pregnancies! Your sister (the Hollywood actress Isla Fisher) is a much-loved ambassador for Australia. Does she stay at the Backpackers while in town? Or is she more of a Grande Bretagne kind of gal? My sister has stayed here many times with Sacha and the kids. This is her accommodation of choice! She stays in one of our two-bedroom apartments because of the kids. (Isla is married to the British comedian Sacha Baron Cohen and the couple has three young children, Olive, Elula, and Moses). What does she think of Athens? She and Sacha love Athens and they also love going down the coast (the Athenian Riviera). They spend loads of time at the beaches there. The city can be a bit harder for young families. What industry trends have you noticed in recent years? A lot more people want to go on a city holiday now and cook their own meals. It’s a huge shift that you can see emerging through air B&B and other parts of the share economy. People want to go somewhere and feel that they are having a unique experience and that they can cook and cater for themselves for around 15-20 per person per night. Isla Fisher and Sasha Baron Cohen
ground. We have an implicit desire, being Aussies, to kind of do things properly. To pay our taxes; to make sure all our staff get paid correctly; and that all their entitlements are taken care of. We attract and retain good staff because of that. I think that’s a really Aussie mentality. Has the budget market proved more recession-proof in recent times? Greece is a fantastic product for the budget travel sector and for families. The families who were going to spend ₏180 on staying in the EGPVTG QH #VJGPU ƒPF VJCV VJG[ ECP IGV VJG UCOG VJKPI HTQO WU HQT only ₏80, so we’ve managed to attract the more prestige traveler who wants a good experience, but at a better price. What’s the best part of your job? That we are purely in the business of people having fun – and that’s something we take very seriously here. We’re not a business hotel so our guests are generally a lot more chilled.
How is Athens city centre changing? I think it’s more real now. For awhile there, it was trying to be someVJKPI KV YCUPŨV #PF KV YCU QXGTRTKEGF #VJGPU JCU FGƒPKVGN[ DGEQOG better value for money. There’s a sense of humility that’s come back to the city too. We’re seeing a lot more experimentation – street food, more international concepts, more variety. Instead of just doing the same thing everywhere. What do you miss most about Australia? I miss the sense of space and the sound of the ocean. Finally, what does Australia Day mean to you? Aussie Day is always about the same things, wherever you are living. You’ve got to get together with a few good friends and have a few drinks and reflect a bit. We are living in a different culture and a different country, so it’s great to come back to your roots. Athens Sports Bar is at Veikou 3, Acropolis, www.athenssportsbar.gr. To book accommodation at Athens Backpackers or Athens Studios, visit www.backpackers.gr
And the worst part? All we want is a stable political environment. We want to see Greece become great again. Who parties harder? Australians or Greeks? I think that the Aussies probably have the edge there for consumption, but not for keeping their sh*t together. Greeks have better form over all four quarters. They have longevity. Be honest, do Australians make good hotel guests? Well, put it this way ‌ if we do have a problem, it’s always Aussies. I could tell you some stories about Aussie guests that are unbelievable. 6JG[ CTG FGĆ’PKVGN[ VJG PCWIJVKGUV IWGUVUĐ? $WV CNUQ VJG OQUV NQXGCDNG Speaking of love, is it true that Athens Backpackers has kick-started many big romances? A lot of people have met and fallen in love here. There’s been many
At Backpackers roofbar
insider athens | January - February 2016 35
Special Promotion
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H
aving developed its expertise over more than 30 years, the Swiss brand is perpetuating its art of cutting-edge treatments, including TKIQTQWU UGNGEVKQP QH VJG Ć’PGUV KPITGFKGPVU HQT IWCTCPVGGF GHHGEVKXGPGUU ;QW OC[ JCXG VQ UJGNN QWV HQT UQOG QH VJGO DWV VJG COC\KPI DGPGĆ’VU are pretty enticing.
REVEALING THE SKIN’S PROMISE OF BEAUTY Created more than 10 years ago, Valmont’s Moisturizing Ritual has offered comfort and beauty to the most demanding skins for over a decade and this year they introduce the Moisturizing Serumulsion, an indispensable addition to enhance the performance of the other Moisturizing Ritual treatments. Moisturizing Serumulsion stands out as a major innovation. It offers the strength of a serum, with its highly concentrated ingredients and smooth formula, combined with the comfort of a cream. Its velvety VGZVWTG KU C FGNKIJV VQ VJG UMKP KV TGRGNU ƒPG NKPGU CPF UQQVJGU TGFPGUU Enriched with the expert cocktail of triple DNA and next-generation moisturizing ingredients, this treatment indulges the skin with a new and lasting form of hydration. As a compound product, this treatment can be used in two different ways: Used alone, it reveals its full effectiveness by offering impeccable hydration and supreme comfort. Used together with other treatments in the Moisturizing line, it strengthens and enhances the performance of the products that make up the beauty ritual. A moisturizing masterpiece available as of March 2016.
36 insider athens | January - February 2016
AWAKENING THE SKIN TO THE PLEASURES OF SOFTNESS Priming With a Hydrating Fluid Moisturizing Priming Mist Exquisitely light, like a caress of air on the epidermis, Priming With a Fluid mist envelops the skin in a veil of freshness in preparation for the treatment it is about to receive. Used as a preliminary to the beauty routine or throughout the day to refresh the complexion, it elates the skin with a delicate fragrance and a moisturizing texture. Moisturizing Booster ([WUHPH 3OXPSLQJ 6HUXP A few drops of the precious fluid is all it takes to jump start skin hydration. Used together with other treatments in the Valmont Moisturizing line, Moisturizing Booster provides a perfect foundation for sustained effectiveness. Featuring a deft hyaluronic acid complex, this hydration DQQUVGT ƒNNU RNWORU CPF TGXKVCNK\GU GXGP VJG OQUV FGJ[FTCVGF UMKP Moisturizing With A Cream Rich Refreshing Cream Smooth and velvety to delight the senses, the texture of Moisturizing With a Cream imbues the skin with unprecedented hydration. A bath of intense hydration, the treatment is applied as a day cream for exquisite, long-lasting comfort. Featuring a potent moisturizing complex, this cream gives the skin intense and hydration, all day long. Moisturizing with a Mask Instant Refreshing Mask A cocoon of softness to envelop the skin and provide intense, superior CPF NCUVKPI J[FTCVKQP #RRNKGF VQ VJG HCEG KP C ƒPG NC[GT KV RNWORU VJG GRKFGTOKU KP TGEQTF VKOG YJKNG XKUKDN[ TGFWEKPI ƒPG NKPGU CPF UOQQVJing the skin. With a single application, the complexion comes back to life, the epidermis is moistened and the skin is reborn. Available in Orloff Spa at Life Gallery, Astir Beach, GBSpa, Arion Spa, King George Perfumes & more‌ www.orloffspa.gr, www.orloffdayspa.gr
What do you do when you "do the duck?"? Why you don't want to "eat soup" in Greece! What happens when you "become billiard balls"? Discover the answer to these and many other quirky colloquialisms – including the enduring mystery of Mrs Alexander’s buttons! A perfect gift for anyone who intends to spend time in Greece and get under the skin of the local culture.
Treat yourself or a loved one to this laugh-out-loud informative guide to the colourful linguistic secrets of the Greeks, written by Insider’s own John Carr (with Paul Anastasi), and accompanied by wonderfully humourous illustrations by Iason Iliades.
€8.99 from all leading international bookshops in Greece (look out for details of book signings in Athens in January, 2016).
insider athens | January - February 2016 37
Chilly temperatures make most of us want to hibernate MRHSSVW F] XLI ǻVITPEGI [MXL E KSSH FSXXPI SJ VIH E DVD marathon, and our favourite pair of woolies. But EWMHI JVSQ XLI SFZMSYW LIEPXL FIRIǻXW GSPH [IEXLIV activity has the power to dramatically boost our mood. As our bodies work to stay warm, the amount of endorphins we produce increases. All of which leaves us with elevated happiness levels - a formidable weapon against the dreaded Winter Blues, wouldn’t you say?
38 insider athens | January - February 2016
Winter Wellness Special
GO WALKABOUT IN ATHENS
GETTING ALL HOT AND STEAMY Allow us to share with you one of our very favourite annual winter rituals. A half-day visit to the marvelously peaceful Hammam Baths, right in the heart of bustling, Athens. In ancient Greece, Hammam was regarded as the “silent healerâ€? of everyday life. Feel the stresses and strains of 2015 drain away as you enjoy the thermal properties of steam under the Hammam Bath’s atmospheric dome and marble interior, while enjoying a deep exfoliation and soothing massage that will leave you feeling utterly reborn and ready for anything, trust us! Choose between a relaxing Traditional Hammam (â‚Ź25), an Ali-Mama Hammam (â‚Ź45) which includes a full body massage and deep exfoliating scrub, or a sensual Moroccan Hammam, (â‚Ź55), with a ‘magic’ olive oil paste rich in antioxidants, for deep cleansing and nourishment, concluding with a heavenly head massage. Don’t forget to relax afterwards with a herbal tea and Turkish delight before your return to the world outside.
Athens’ mountainous terrain and diverse geography is a bountiful year-round gift to walking enthusiasts of all ages and abilities. Enjoy the camaraderie of like-minded hikers and make new friends by joining the Athens Strollers network. Athens Strollers is a free hiking club who walk in nature, in and around Athens, every other weekend (on a Saturday or Sunday). The length of walks varies from around 2-3 hours VQ JQWTU CPF KU WUWCNN[ UVCIGF CETQUU FKHHGTGPV FKHƒEWNV[ NGXGNU Athens Strollers also warmly welcomes families with children from 6 years to take part in their invigorating treks, such as the popular 10km one around scenic Koropi: starting at the foot of the Ymittos mountain, and ascending via windy dirt roads and stony trails, with views out over the plain of Peania (on a clear day, you’ll see as far as Evia). The route encounters pistachio groves and vineyards, and ends with an optional meal at a charismatic local taverna in the Bourboutsana region, To Kellari, as just reward for all that legwork! Sign up for Athens Strollers’ mailing list by emailing current co-ordinator Hetty Schuppert (hetty.schuppert@athens-strollers.gr) and receive invitations to forthcoming walks. Or visit www.athens-strollers.gr for more details.
Hamman Baths, Agion Asomaton 17 & Melidoni 1, Thissio, 10553, Athens, 210.323.1073, www.hammam.gr
insider athens | January - February 2016 39
Winter Wellness Special
PELION - PLAYGROUND OF THE GODS! Spirit yourself away for a weekend of rousing outdoor activity, comDKPGF YKVJ NWZWTKQWU ōKPFQQTU VKOGŏ KP VJG OCIPKƒEGPV UEGPKE YQPFGTland that is Pelion in winter. Believed to be the birthplace of mythology’s mighty centaurs, legend has it that Pelion was also where the Gods went for their revelries and vacations! Mountainous Pelion – with its altitude of 1,600 metres - is an area of almost indescribable beauty that’s been likened to the famous Adirondack range of Upstate New York (but without the strip malls and fastfood restaurants!). Enchanting alpine villages hewn of stone and wood appear as if by magic amid ancient winding pathways, apple orchards and cascading waterfalls and streams. Stay at one of our favourite boltholes, the award-winning Lost Unicorn, CP GNGICPV UVQPG IWGUVJQWUG ƒVVGF YKVJ ƒPG CPVKSWGU CPF ƒTGRNCEGU Here, you’ll sample authentic mountain cuisine and truly soak up the authentic alpine charms of Pelion. We especially love their comfycosy library with its floor-to-ceiling-shelves laden with books. Just perfect, after a day spent tramping the kalderimia (traditional cobbled paths) and exploring the mountain’s staggering beauty at close range. (Mount Pelion also has trails suitable for horse riding.) A double-room at The Lost Unicorn, (Tsagarada, Pelion, Tel: 242.604.9930, www.lostunicorn.com) costs about ₏90 a night during low season (April 15-July 15). The hotel is also open for Clean Monday, (March 11-14).
SPRINGS ETERNAL Located by the scenic coast of Edipsos, two hours from Athens, is the lush oasis of Thermae Sylla, one of the top-10 ranked thermal spas in the world (as voted by travel bible Conde Nast Traveller magazine), featuring a 5-star hotel, 2 gourmet restaurants and 2 heavenly thermal-water pools. Long-known as a glamorous, decadent, people-watching outpost, especially in the hedonistic ‘60s, the hotel has now combined modern treatment packages based on ancient bathing rituals to make it a truly authentic balneolaspotherapy centre. The mineral springs of Edipsos have been famous for their healing properties since the 4th century B.C. Aristotle, Strabo and Plutarch were among those to make reference to the springs which emerge naturally from the ground at an already balmy temperature of 80-85 degrees Celsius, carrying with them traces of radon – a powerful therapeutic mineral with healing properties. Take advantage of reduced winter rates with a reviving weekend stay at the Spa Hotel and select from a tempting menu of rejuvenating treatments for men and women: such as thermal water hydrotherapy to improve blood circulation and combat aches and pains, mud therapy, inhalation therapy, massage and reflexology. Prices for a weekend stay start from about â‚Ź150 a night. Thermae Sylla Spa & Wellness Hotel, Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia, 34300. Tel: 222.606.0100,or visit www.thermaesylla.gr
40 insider athens | January - February 2016
TAKE THE VOULIAGMENI PLUNGE A mid-winter swim is such an unbeatable high. Not only do you dodge the masses, it also does wonders for circulation. Dive into stunning Vouliagmeni Lake, one of the Athenian Riviera’s richest year-round treasures, just 25km from the city-centre. This much-loved swimming spot is ranked by Greece’s Special Committee for the Protection of Natural Thermal Resources as among 20 recognised thermal springs. The healing properties of the natural springs which supply the lake are the result of the water’s high concentration in salts and minerals (in particular, potassium, sodium, lithium, ammonium, calcium, iron, chlorine and iodine). Allied with the high water temperatures between 22-29 degrees, the lake’s enticing waters are said to help relieve muscular afflictions, promote post-traumatic rehabilitation, and alleviate gynaecological, and dermatological diseases. For a more luxe bathing interlude, indulge in an exclusive “Prive Area” with comfy double sunbeds and private service. Or ask about one of the lake’s snorkeling encounters and admire the unique underwater marvels of the seabed. Winter entry to the lake costs €9 during the week and €10 on weekends. Vouliagmeni Lake, Vouliagmeni, 16671, 210.896.2237 or www. limnivouliagmenis.gr
insider athens | January - February 2016 41
Greek Life
An Orange Juice with Two Squid, Please! John Carr, author of “Greekisms for Dummies�, talks Greek humour versus British - and confesses to his own struggles with the tricky Hellenic tongue. http://www.insider-publications.com/an-orange-juice-with-two-squid-please/
How long did it take you to get to grips with the Greek language? No-one ever ‘gets to grips’ with the Greek language. Even now there are parts of Homer and the New Testament that cause scholars to scratch their heads. I don’t scratch mine, because I’m not that smart. What is your Greek Connection? I am in fact half Greek on my mother’s side. She met my English soldier dad at the height of the Greek Civil War, married him and fled to the safety and drizzle of North Staffordshire, where I was subsequently born and the rest, as they say, is history. My mum did her blessed best to teach me some Greek at an early age, an effort which resulted in such tantrums and trauma that I’m still babbling to my analyst about it with copious tears. So much later in life, I decided to get my revenge by writing Greekisms for Dummies (me being the dummy, of course) with the help of fellow-journalist Paul Anastasi, a half-Cypriot who lives, like me, in a bottomless existential chasm. Then in grammar school I picked Greek over Latin, thinking it would be easy. On a scale of 1-10 (10 being Mandarin!), how hard do you think the Greek language is to learn for the average beginner? That depends on the individual. I’ve seen English people here picking up fluent Greek very quickly indeed (such as Bruce Clark, formerly of Reuters), and some, even though married for centuries to Greek spouses, unable to utter much more than ‘nay’ or ‘okky.’ Women seem to be better at it than men, I’m sorry to say. It must be the neurocerebral structure. You can’t scale this thing, though if you insist, I’d give it a 5. Much of your book focuses on the lighter side of Greek life. How does the Greek sense of humour compare to the British sense of humour? 'PINKUJ JWOQWT Ć’PFU FGFKECVGF HCPU COQPI VJG WTDCPK\GF )TGGMU who subconsciously, however, wish they could pull off the witty and urbane act. But the Greek character, of course, is different. Much English humour lies in being semi-concealed under a mask of detachment. Greek humour is more open and yes, I’ll say it, vulgar. The problem with that is that Greek males carry it to macho excess and then it goes sour. Sure, it’s straight from Aristophanes, but he, at least, knew how to carry it off. I include plenty of examples in the book, which is not for the faint of heart or the politically correct. This can be a label warning. Once you’ve bought the book you can’t get your money back.
42 insider athens | January - February 2016
Can you tell us one of your favourite Greekisms? I suppose it would be ‘sit on your eggs,’ which to the average unsuspecting Anglo-Saxon would carry a quite unseemly sub-text. )LQDOO\ KDYH \RX HYHU PDGH DQ\ FODVVLF IDX[ SDV LQ *UHHN" It took me a heck of a long time to get the correct participial pronoun for ‘give me a phone call,’ which can all too easily become ‘buy me a telephone.’ Which probably explains why, when I used the phrase, RGQRNG YQWNF VCR VJGKT JGCFU YKVJ C Ć’PIGT 1PEG QP C VTCKP KP PQTVJGTP Greece, I asked the barman for an orange juice with two squid. I had OGTGN[ CFFGF CP GZVTC U[NNCDNG VQ VJG YQTF HQT ŧUVTCYU Ũ )Q Ć’IWTG VJCV one out.
insider athens | January - February 2016 43
Greek Life
Whether you’ve been here for 6 months or 6 years, Greece - and all her crazy, glorious habits - just has a way of getting under your skin. How much of a local have you become?
You’ve started saying “open” the light, instead of “turn
on” the light;
2
You clap when the aeroplane you are flying on lands; You’ve invested in your
3
own laiki trolley;
You now know 5 Marias, 4 Elenis and 7 Yiorgos (and
have memorized
when each of their name days are); =SY ǻKLX over who pays the taverna bill;
44 insider athens | January - February 2016
1
5
4
Not only do you know all the words to at least one song by Sakis Rouvas or Giannis Ploutarhos, you’re also down with all the latest goss on their private lives;
7
You buy out the whole supermarket when it’s about to close for 24 hours;
8
You know how to work a “komboloi�;
Fish restaurants used to confuse you, but now
you argue with the
waiter QXGT YJKEJ KU VJG DGUV Ć’UJ a frappe;
11
Speaking of frappe, you now make one before leaving home, when arriving at the QHĆ’EG CHVGT NWPEJ YJGP JCXKPI IWGUVU CHVGT VJG IWGUVU NGCXG CPF DGHQTG IQKPI VQ DGF
12 13 14
When someone spits on part of the ftu-ftu routine
honking at the car in front;
You now wish everyone you encounter everything from “kalo mina� and “kalo banio� to “kalo xonespi� (for good digestion!);
You know the difference between kefalotiri and kefalograviera (both hard table cheeses made from sheep or goats’ milk);
of tsipouro’;
You discover you can no longer turn up “empty
handed� when paying your friends a visit.
16
18
When you blame all your ailments on the ‘revma’ or current - and the solution to all afore-mentioned problems is a shot
Your children NEVER go to bed before 9pm.
17
You’ve started wearing long sleeves in September even though it’s still 35 degrees in the shade;
your eyebrows to
you, you don’t take offence; it’s just
6JG VTCHƒE NKIJV VWTPGF ITGGP C PCPQ UGEQPF CIQ CPF [QWŨTG CNTGCF[
15
When you start raising say “no�;
9
10
You have mastered the art of reverse parking while holding
6
19
20 insider athens | January - February 2016 45
Greek Life
Traditionally the domain of taxi drivers and old men in kafenia, the komboloi is enjoying a revival among the city’s younger generation, reports Amanda Dardanis.
F
eeling tied up in knots about a major work deadline? Fretting about unpaid bills - or passing your driving exam? Don’t worry. Just reach for the komboloi.
It’s a sound as intrinsic to the Greek way of life as blaring car horns or the jangle of a bell around the neck of a recalcitrant goat. The rhythmic click-click-clicking of busy beads on a string. Meant to soothe the soul and sweeten the passing of the hours. We live in a vexing age. No longer is this famous cultural icon just for taxi drivers. Or silver foxes, whiling away an afternoon with an ouzo, under the shade of a plane tree. Komboloi – or worry beads - are now being adopted by a strung-out younger generation. Perhaps this newfound affection is simply ironic. Or maybe, a longing among millennials in these pressurized times to reconnect with simpler days. It’s a bit of both, I suspect. The trend is so pronounced, it’s even caught the eye of the Guardian UK, who put it down to the stresses of a crisis-wracked generation. A Greek-Canadian friend of mine in her late 20s has just, only halfjokingly, taken up the bead twirling habit. As a New Year’s resolution, she’s vowed to quit cigarettes and claims that toying with her newly-
46 insider athens | January - February 2016
acquired, ruby-red komboloi when she’s out socially, helps to keep a lid on nasty cravings, by keeping her hands gainfully employed. ‘I’d have taken up knitting if I could. But I don’t have the nerves or the patience for it!’ she laughs. ‘Too many dropped stitches. Also, komboNQK CTG RGTHGEV HQT VJG YKPVGT OQPVJU DGECWUG CNN VJCV Ć’FIGVKPI MGGRU my hands warm!’ 1VJGTU Ć’PF VJCV VJG J[RPQVKE OGVTQPQOG TJ[VJO QH VJG MQODQNQK KU akin to a meditative state. It helps to block out the white noise of modern life, promoting mindfulness, and bringing clarity to unresolved issues. In recent years, many young hands have also taken up the begleri (those half-worry beads you see everywhere on an open-style straight string) as a komboloi alternative. It’s become a sort of mandatory fashion accessory for those restless types who just can’t sit still. But personally, we prefer the authenticity and circular purity of the real deal. Also, flicking those beads around reportedly has physiological beneĆ’VU CU YGNN #EEQTFKPI VQ CEWRWPEVWTKUV RTKPEKRNGU VJG TGRGCVGF CEVKQP UVKOWNCVGU VJG CTGCU QH VJG Ć’PIGTVKRU YJKEJ KPFWEG YGNN DGKPI So what is it about small, pretty beads that brings out the inner child in us? Well, there’s something just so innately soothing about the feel QH VJGO UNKRRKPI VJTQWIJ [QWT Ć’PIGTU #NUQ LWUV NKMG RQRRKPI DWDDNG wrap or straightening paper clips – playing with a komboloi is just so weirdly addictive! A cultural cousin to Catholic rosary beads (Buddhists and Hindus have the japa mala), the komboloi might have begun life as a prayer counting device for the monks of Mount Athos. But to most Greeks, VJG[ PQ NQPIGT ECTT[ TGNKIKQWU UKIPKĆ’ECPEG The modern Greek word komboloi derives from kombos (knot) and logio (collection) or the verb leo (say). It’s said that it’s short for the phrase: “in every knot I say a prayer“. Today, this much-loved cultural motif exists in everything from those cheap plastic knock-offs one sees everywhere in Plaka, to traditional amber, carob beans, coral and bone, all the way to expensive bespoke versions in semi-precious stones.
How to use your komboloi
the Extrovert or Introvert Way!
For shy types: start at one end of the thread, near the shield, and pull the thread forward using that hand’s thumb and the side of the index ƒPIGT WPVKN QPG QH VJG DGCFU KU TGCEJGF 6JGP VJG EQTF KU VKRRGF UQ VJCV the bead falls and hits the shield. This is repeated until all the beads have been tipped and then the user starts over. To make a statement: divide the beads into two groups. On one end is the shield and a small number of the beads. On the other end are the rest of the beads. Where the two threads are empty, that space KU NCKF DGVYGGP VJG KPFGZ CPF OKFFNG ƒPIGTU 6JG JCPF UJQWNF DG KP C position where the palm is facing the torso. Then the end behind the hand is swung up and forward so that it hits the other beads, making a noise. The threads are then switched back into the space between the KPFGZ CPF OKFFNG ƒPIGTU D[ JQNFKPI VJG VJTGCFU DGVYGGP VJG VJWOD CPF VJG UKFG QH VJG KPFGZ ƒPIGT 6JKU KU TGRGCVGF TJ[VJOKECNN[ ETGCVKPI a louder clicking noise than the quiet method.
insider athens | January - February 2016 47
Greek Life
Choosing your perfect Komboloi: Go for one where the beads are strung on cord, preferably silk, rather than a metal chain. Although it’s common to see metal strung komboloi these days, they do lack traditional authenticity and the beads have VJG CFFGF FKUCFXCPVCIG QH DGKPI YQTP CYC[ QT ĹŤĆ’NGFĹŹ FQYP D[ WUG Do they have a Founda? (the tassel tied to the end of the string). Some younger komboloi users prefer them without, seeing the traditional style as outdated, but we believe that this simple embellishment plays a vital role as a stress reliever. According to komboloi artisans, kombolagadiko, the work of the tassel maker was once so revered, it was considered an art form in its own right. Stroking the founda, reportedly, “evokes a sweet serenity in the depths of your heart.â€? Run your hands through the beads and listen to the komboloi’s “voiceâ€? - or the sounds that the beads make when they tap, tap, tap. Play them gently in order to really hear their song. Finally, make sure they feel “rightâ€? and that the colour speaks to you. After all, the two of you are going to be spending a lot of time together!
Insider Recommends Komboloi artistans, Kombologadiko, have DTCPEJGU KP )N[HCFC -KƒUUKC 0CHRNKQ 6JGUsaloniki and Kolonaki – and sell over 500 handmade versions, ranging from traditional amber, coral shell, ebony, horn and bone – even sugarcane fruit scented with incense. Prices range from between about ₏30-₏900. Buy online from www.kombologadiko.gr Adrianou Street in Plaka is Komboloi Nirvana YJGTG [QWŨNN ƒPF GXGT[VJKPI HTQO EJGCR RNCUtic versions to high-end bespoke models. Both the Benaki Museum gift shop, Koumpari 1, 210.367.1000 (www.benakishop.gr) and the new Museum of Cycladic Art online shop (www.cycladic.gr) sell exquisite handmade pieces. 8KUKV VJG YQTNFŨU ƒTUV Komboloi Museum in Nafplio, Staikopoulou 25, (tel: 275.202.1618) http://www.komboloi.gr/ for your one-off collector’s piece.
48 insider athens | January - February 2016
insider athens | January - February 2016 49
Gastronomy
Forget all your troubles, forget all your cares and go downtown ... to the city’s hottest new gourmet addresses
The Sowl Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space, formerly Root Artspace. Go for a weekend morning yoga class followed by a top-notch brunch; then hang all day to soak up the creative buzz and feel-good tunes at this beautifully-restored, multi-tasker of a venue. High notes: Feisty Mexican street food choices and the on-site art gallery. Herakleidon 10, Thissio, 210.345.0003
Taqueria Maya If 2015’s feel-good movie “Chef” left you longing, like us, for the perfect Cuban sandwich, head to Tacqueria Maya where tacos, burritos, quesadillas and other fantastic tastes of Latin American street food are the name of the game. The meat is marinated and slow-cooked to perfect tenderness. Vegetarians are catered for too. High notes: The warm and friendly atmosphere coupled with pocketfriendly prices. Petraki 10, Athens, 211.216.7081, www.taquriamaya.com
50 insider athens | January - February 2016
Feedel Urban Gastronomy
Museum of Greek Gastronomy
This new secret gem, in a quiet square in the heart of Athens, won’t stay secret for too much longer, we predict. Since opening in December, Feedel has already beEQOG C ƒTO +PUVCITCO HCXQWTKVG VJCPMU to its funky interior and heartfelt Mediterranean cuisine.
Watch this space as the dynamic young Konstantinos Matsourdellis, who masterminded the EQWPVT[ŨU ƒTUV )TGGM )CUVTQPQO[ /WUGWO KP 2012, re-opens his marvelous courtyard restaurant in Psyrri (in early March). The restaurant will dish up modern Hellenic cuisine that dovetails with the museum’s avant-garde gastronomic exhibitions.
High notes: Green fava (!), pork sirloin pancetta - and a delightful patch of green space, perfect for al-fresco moments come the Spring! Dena 1, Athens, 210.321.0551
High notes: The venue itself - a delightfully restored, two-storey neoclassical “grand dame� in the culinary heart of Athens. Agiou Dimitrious Street, Psyrri, 210.321.1311, www.gastronomymuseum.gr
The Trap An intimate French bistro, tucked away inside an arcade off Syntagma Square, ideal for after-work drinks with friends, a stolen lovers’ interlude, or a stylish coffee date with a client. High notes: Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes + dangerously delicious cocktails on tap (bearing exotic garnishes like toasted pineapple syrup and lime nutmeg!) Othonos 10, 210.321.5561
insider athens | January - February 2016 51
Gastronomy
How do you pick the ideal brunch to satisfy your weekend cravings? Brunch may be a relatively new Athenian institution but too often the perfect brunch experience in Greece gets messed up by imitating alien breakfast concepts resulting in watered-down mimosas and substandard eggs. But don’t despair, dear bruncher.
H
oused in the luxe Herodion hotel, the Atrium gives brunching a good old Mediterranean twist by re-creating the ambiance of a traditional Sunday family meal with elegant reimagined staples made to share, though you won’t want to: cauliflower soup with crispy bacon, steamed UJGNNƒUJ CPF ITKNNGF OCEMGTGN YKVJ HCXC DGCPU DTWUEJGVVC YKVJ EJCTTGF aubergines, grilled goat cheese and tomatos, and a hearty portion of linguini with cottage cheese. A real display of sophisticated food craftsmanship by chefs Manolis Mavrigiannakis and Marios Pirpiridis who urge you to revisit Greek culinary classics. If the seasonal, locally sourced dishes aren’t enough of a draw, you can sip on Atrium’s inventive cocktails. Perfectly constructed for sunshine sipping, take your pick from the Wisecrack Fizz or the Mediterranean Basil Smash made with ouzo, lime juice, sugar, pink pepper, and basil or simply let the bartender decide for you. Insider recommends the 3 Cardinals, a melon flavored cocktail, made with Midori, Frangelico, elderflower syrup, fresh lime juice, and fresh orange juice and the enticingly named Red passion, a scarlet quaff made with Aperol and a triple hit of lemon from liqueur, juice and soda. 9KVJ VJG NKIJV ƒNVGTKPI VJTQWIJ KVU UWP TQQH CPF KVU YKNF RKUVCEJKQ VTGGU piercing the azure Athenian sky, the Atrium is a sun-kissed green haven that lends itself to languorous brunching. Extremely good value-for-money at just 25 euros per person and 15 euros for children under 12. Atrium, Hotel Herodion, Rovertou Galli 4, Makriyianni. For Sunday brunch reservations, contact 210.923.6832.
52 insider athens | January - February 2016
Insider guide restaurant index by type
AMERICAN
TGI FRIDAY’S THE BURGER JOINT THE BURGER JOINT
Kolonaki Glyfada Psychico
BAR - RESTAURANTS
21 RESTAURANT -KƒUUKC 360 COCKTAIL BAR Monistiraki 42 BAR Syntagma 48 URBAN GARDEN Mavili Sq 9 Syntagma A FOR ATHENS Monistiraki ABARIZA Syntagma ABARORIZA Pangrati ACROPOLIS MUSEUM RESTAURANT Acropolis APSENDI Halandri BABA AU RUM Syntagma BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq BARLEY CARGO Syntagma BEER TIME Psyrri BIOS Gazi BOOZE COOPERATIVA Psyrri CAFÉ ZOE Syngrou CASH -KƒUUKC CINCO Kolonaki COULEUR LOCALE Monistiraki CV BAR Keramikos DIRTY GINGER Gazi DRUNK SINATRA Syntagma EN PLO Vouliagmeni Bar EXPLORER’S LOUNGE Syntagma GAZARTE Gazi GINGER Mavili Sq HIDE & SEEK Halandri HOLY SPIRIT Glyfada HOXTON BAR Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro MINNIE THE MOOCHER Kolonaki MOMIX Gazi NIXON Kerameikos NOËL Plaka OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT -KƒUUKC SHOWROOM Kolonaki SOCIALISTA Gazi SOFA BAR Vouliagmeni SPOLLATI Monastiraki STEP BY STEP Halandri STINKING BISHOPS Kolonaki THE CLUMSIES Plaka THE JAMES JOYCE IRISH BAR Thissio THE GIN JOINT Syntagma THROUBI Plaka TOY CAFÉ Plaka UNDERDOG Thiseio
BEER RESTAURANTS
OCTOBERFEST SILLY WIZARDS
CHINESE
Ag. Paraskevi Ag. Paraskevi
CHINA’S FANTASY Psychico GOLDEN PHOENIX -KƒUUKC KEEP WOKING Glyfada NAMA Ag. Paraskevi NOODLE BAR Syntagma NUI -KƒUUKC SAIPAN Halandri WAGAMAMA Maroussi
refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details
FISH
AI NIKOLAS Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus DOURAMBEIS Piraeus DOURAMPEIS OYSTER Psychiko FISH CO. PLATTERS Psychico ITHAKI Vouliagmeni KOLLIAS Piraeus JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO -KƒUUKC MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni NIKOLAS TIS SCHINOUSAS Glyfada NISSON GI Ag. Paraskevi OCEAN BASKET Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PAPAIOANNOU Pireaus PIPERIA Psychico PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RAFALE Vouliagmeni SARDELAKI Glyfada THALATTA Gazi TO 25ARAKI Glyfada ZEFYROS Piraeus TRATA Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus
FRENCH
ARTISANAL -KƒUUKC BLUE PINE -KƒUUKC GASPAR FOOD AND MOOD Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPIROS & VASILIS Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati TARTARE Glyfada
GOURMET
ALERIA Kerameikos ANETON Maroussi AVENUE Syngrou BO BOTRINI’S Halandri CTC Hilton FUGA Mavili Sq FUNKY GOURMET Kerameikos F+W Kolonaki HYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE -KƒUUKC KUZINA Thissio MUSEUM OF GREEK GASTRONOMY Psyrri ORIZONTES LYCAVYTTOU Kolonaki PASAJI Syntagma POLLY MAGGOO Metaxurgeio PREMIERE Syngrou VAROULKO Piraeus
GREEK
2 MAZI Plaka 310 STREET Psychico ANETON Maroussi ARCHEON GEFSIS Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis BERDEMA -KƒUUKC BLUEFIELD BURGER Psychico DIOSKOUROI Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri (/$,Ŭ6 *, -KƒUUKC )(('ŰŶ 85%$1 Syntagma GASTRONOMY IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia KRITHAMOS Psychico
MANI MANI MELILOTOS OLIVE GARDEN PALLAS ATHENA PSOMI & ALATI RAKOKAZANO PEACOCK PROSOPA RENA TIS FTELIAS THIO TRAGI TO KOUTI YANTES YDRIA
Acropolis Monastiraki Monastiraki Monastiraki Halandri Halandri Syngrou Gazi Psychico Petralona Monastiraki Exarhia Plaka
GRILL
1920 Halandri MEATROPOLEOS 3 Syntagma TELEMACHOS BBQ CLUB -KÆ’UUKC
INDIAN
BOLLYWOOD INDIAN KITCHEN INDIAN MASALA JAIPUR PALACE KOHENOOR
KOREAN
DOSIRAK
Syntagma
KOSHER
GOSTIJO Gazi Syntagma Thissio -KÆ’UUKC Gazi
INTERNATIONAL
ALL SENSES GASTRONOMY Glyfada BAKU Vouliagmeni BUBA -KƒUUKC CHEFI’S Halandri COSA NOSTRA Monastiraki FOOD MAFIA Glyfada GEFSIS ME ONOMASIA PROELEFSIS -KƒUUKC LA PIERRADE Kolonaki MAMA ROUX SOUTH Glyfada NIKKEI Kolonaki PERE UBU Glyfada
ITALIAN
JAPANESE
FURIN KAZAN Syntagma HAMA Glyfada INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki KOI Syntagma, Voula MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni OOZORA -KÆ’UUKC RAKKAN -KÆ’UUKC SUBA -KÆ’UUKC SUSHI BAR (THE) Pangrati TOMOE -KÆ’UUKC YOKO SUSHI & BENTO Kolonaki
30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni ALBION Psychico AL DENTE Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni APERITIVO Glyfada CAPANNA Kolonaki CODICE BLU Kolonaki DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DAL PROFESSORE Maroussi DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula IL SALOTTO Glyfada IL SALUMAIO -KƒUUKC LA CASA DI GIORGINO Glyfada MALCONI’S Kolonaki MARGHERITA -KƒUUKC MATILDE PIZZA BAR Psychico NANNINELA Ag. Paraskevi OMBRA Psychico PAUSA Maroussi SALE BIANCO DA Glyfada SALVOTORO SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki SILVER CASA Vouliagmeni TESTACCIO Vouliagmeni TONY BONANO Piraeus TUTTI A TAVOLA Kolonaki TUTTITALIA Kolonaki VEZENE Hilton VESPA ROSA Pangrati VINCENZO Glyfada
Psyrri
POLYNESIAN
LEDRA KAI
Syngrou
PUB RESTAURANTS
KEG ‘N’ CREW MOLLY MALONE’S THE JAMES JOYCE
Piraeus Glyfada Thissio
ROOFTOP DINING
ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq
RUSSIAN
BARIN
Glyfada
SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB
BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi LEBANESE DREAM GRILL Voula FALAFELLAS Psyrri GOUROUNAKIA KIFISSIAS NARGILE -KƒUUKC -KƒUUKC SUZANNA Faliro KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki KEBABTZIDIKON MEDITERRANEAN Nea Smyrni BARBADIMOS ALATSI Hilton KEBABTZIDIKON BAKU Vouliagmeni KYR.ARISTOS Faliro BERDEMA -KƒUKC NAIADES Voula BYZANTINO Hilton SAVVAS Monastiraki CAFE AVISSINIA Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni COMMON SECRET -KƒUUKC SOUVLAKI BAR Thissio EX ANATOLIS Halandri THANASSIS Monastiraki DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati SCANDINAVIAN GB CORNER Syntagma SAFKA Kerameikos HYTRA Plaka SPANISH IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada -KƒUUKC MALABAR Vouliagmeni LA GABINOTECA Exarhia MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati SALERO MIMAYA Glyfada TAVERNAS OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri Kolonaki PARLIAMENT Syntagma FILIPPOU Ag. Paraskevi PRYTANEION Kolonaki GAIDAROS Psyrri RATKA Kolonaki IPIROS TAVERN Ag. Paraskevi STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki KOLOVOS O TZITZIKAS KI THE DALLIANCE HOUSE -KƒUUKC TO KOUTI Monastiraki O MERMIGAS -KƒUUKC 5[PVCIOC Hilton TORTUGA Pangrati VLASSIS TRAPEZARIA VOSPOROS ZORBAS
Pangrati Piraeus Piraeus
MEXICAN
AMIGOS DOS HERMANOS EL TACO BUENO SANTA FE TAQUERIA MAYA
Glyfada -KÆ’UUKC Halandri Halandri Syntagma
MEZEDES AND OUZO
ANTAIOS ATHINAIKON CINCO KIRKI OUZADIKO SCHOLARHEIO
Psychico Omonia Kolonaki Thissio Kolonaki Plaka
MULTI ETHNIC
ALTAMIRA ALTAMIRA BUBA
PERSIAN
ANAHITA
THAI
ANDAMAN BLUE BAMBOO BUDOO ROUAN THAI ROYAL THAI TAMARIND
Petralona Petralona Syntagma Piraeus -KÆ’UUKC Metaxourgeio
TURKISH
MUTFAK
VEGETARIAN
AVOCADO NICE N EASY PURE BLISS
WINE BARS
BY THE GLASS FABRICA DE VINO HETEROCLITO Kolonaki KIKI’S DE GRECE Marousi OINOSCENT -KƒUUKC VINIFERA VRETTOS WHISPERS OF WINE Halandri VINARTE
Glyfada Syntagma Kolonaki Syntagma Syntagma Exarhia Syntagma Syntagma Syntagma .LͤVVLD Plaka 0DURXVVL Glyfada
insider athens | January - February 2016 53
Insider guide
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Insider guide
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insider athens | January - February 2016 63
Insider guide see & do
Badminton Theatre *RXGL $WKHQV 7HO Gialino Music Theatre 6\JURX 1 6P\UQL $WKHQV 7HO Pallas Theatre 9RXNRXUHVWLRX $WKHQV 7HO
Acropolis LV RSHQ GDLO\ DQG HQWUDQFH LQFOXGHV DUFKDHRORJLFDO VLWHV 7HO Ancient Agora ZDV WKH KHDUW RI DQFLHQW $WKHQV WKH IRFXV RI SROLWLFDO FRPPHUFLDO DGPLQLVWUDWLYH DQG VRFLDO OLIH IRU FHQWXULHV. Byzantine Churches PDQ\ FKXUFKHV GDWLQJ IURP WKH WK DQG WK FHQWXULHV DUH IRXQG DURXQG WKH FLW\ 1RWHZRUWK\ H[DPSOHV LQFOXGH Agios Eleftherios, QH[W WR WKH FDWKHGUDO RQ 0LWURSROHRV 6WUHHW Kapnikarea, KDOIZD\ GRZQ (UPRX 6WUHHW IURP 6\QWDJPD Agi Apostoli $JRUD DUHD VRXWK RI 6WRD RI $WWDORV and Agia Triada 5XVVLDQ 2UWKRGR[ FKXUFK RQ )LOHOOLQRQ 6WUHHW &KXUFKHV DUH RSHQ WR WKH SXEOLF RQ 6XQGD\V DQG KROLGD\V DOVR XVXDOO\ IRU GDLO\ SUD\HUV DP SP DQG SP 'UHVV VREHUO\ ZKHQ YLVLWLQJ Technopolis (Gazi) a WK FHQWXU\ JDV IDFWRU\ WXUQHG PDMRU FXOWXUDO FHQWUH IRU SHUIRUPLQJ DUWV DQG LQVWDOODWLRQ ZRUNV 3LUHRV (UPRX *D]L 7HO
64 insider athens | January - February 2016
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