THE CITY MAGAZINE OF
July - August 2016 Year 15. Issue 128 €4.50 ISSN 1790-3114
ATHENS
LET THE SUNSHINE IN GASTRONOMY Culinary Corfu CULTURE Athens & Epidaurus Festival Digested PLUS Athens Pool Report, The Gold Rush Greeks, Best Rooftop Bars, Summer Beach Reads ISLAND SPECIAL Art on the Islands, Where Athenians Holiday, Aigina’s Secret Past
ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE
These summer holidays couldn’t have come at a better time. After the madness of Brexit, what a perfect juncture to escape from it all on a vacay with a book under a shady tamarisk tree. Or to take off on a sail boat to distance ourselves from Greek referendum anniversaries? (Has it really been one whole year?!) Summer in Greece is always special. It is when tables across the country come alive with a cornucopia of fresh, bright, ripe, succulent, seasonal specialities. It means the shrill cries of children frolicking on the beach. Of paliatzides prowling the streets in their run-down pick-up trucks urging a feng-shui purging of old plastic chairs and cane furniture on their megaphones. Bursts of startling fuchsia bougainvillea spilling off balconies. Street salesmen plying carts piled high with watermelons and potted plants. Ladies emulating sartorial codes set by Grecian goddesses as they take in a performance at the Herod Atticus, draped in off-white cheesecloth dresses.
Of cafes populated by tanned bodies cooling off with long, tall glasses of frappe. The jangling of dice against a backgammon board. The crackle of pop-corn mingling with the fragrance of jasmine at open-air cinemas. Cats sunbathing on the Acropolis’ slippery marble steps. Throngs of colour-coordinated tourists descending on Syntagma to watch young evzones defy the heat and stares in their weather-inappropriate uniforms. TV screens blaring from balconies, intercepted only by the clatter of cutlery and the whirring of fans. The tantalizing smells of grilled sardines off a neighbour’s terrace. Mounds of roughly hewn slices of cold watermelon, melon and cherries offered dorean at tavernas. Retired pensioners nursing their opaque glasses of ouzo. A bright yellow moon hovering perilously low. Crickets trying to raise the decibels by competing with noisy racquet-wielding beach-veterans. And above all else … the sultry sea, inviting you to lose yourself in its crystal-clear depths. In recognition of the tricky times we inhabit, we have filled this summer issue with uplifting themes – a 15-page Island Special; Athens’ Best Pools and Rooftop Bars; Summer Beach Reads and more - that resonate with holiday spirit. So dive in, the water’s great. Kalo kalokairi!
Sudha Nair-Iliades Publisher - Editor
Contributors in this Issue
Michel Devanakis
John Carr, Anna Roins, Maria-Irene Moschonas, Stella Sevastopoulos, Graham Wood, John Zervos,
Editorial Team
Founder
Sudha Nair - Iliades
Art Director
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Amanda Dardanis
A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from news and politics; property and tourism; to crime and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph – and also contributes to local Greek publications.
John Carr Born in North Staffordshire, John Carr has a BA in history and MA in sociology from Leicester University. He has worked in Greece as a correspondent for the Associated Press, Wall Street Journal Europe, The Times of London and Vatican Radio and as broadcaster, writer and actor since 1978. He has published several books including, The America Capsule (2005),Your Eyes Fourteen (2007), On Spartan Wings (2012), Sparta’s Kings (2012), The Defence and Fall of Greece 1940-41 (2013), RHNS Averof (2014) and the hugely popular Greekisms for Dummies (2016)
Muriel Noël
French by origin and a long-time Greek resident, Muriel is a trained geographer whose love for the media veered her towards a career in publishing with French lifestyle magazine VSD and Maison Française, a design magazine. After a career that spanned several years, she moved to Athens, where she has been actively involved with the French community. Muriel splits her time between Paris and Athens and is the force behind Insider Publications’ French magazine, Bonjour Athenes, its French website and weekly newsletter.
Fokia Kitsou Fokia is an intern at Insider and a student of graphic design at the Technological Educational Institution of Athens. Born and raised in Athens which she adores, her native city has often been the subject of her photographic essays. Fokia is passionate about travel, art and fashion and plans to further her studies in the field of fashion design.
Michel Devanakis Award-winning graphic designer, fluent in English, French and Greek, Michel moved to Athens in 1997 to create Studio ZIP, after a long and interesting career in France and Canada. His background in Marketing is a major asset in his creative approach and his services are sought after both in Greece and abroad. An artist in his ‘rare’ spare time, Michel is passionate about discovering obscure destinations. He is the Art Director of Athens Insider, Bonjour Athenes and Insider Weekly.
Stella Sevastopoulos Since moving to Greece in 1994, Stella Sevastopoulos has been art critic and English Editor for ‘The Art Magazine’, and also served as Arts Editor for ‘Athens News’ for 8 years. She wrote her MA thesis on ‘Oscar Wilde and Hellenism in Victorian England’. To read more about art in Athens, visit Stella’s blog at www.artsceneathens.com
Maria-Irene Moschonas After studying theatre at the University of Athens and at Sorbonne, Maria-Irene obtained a Masters in Management of Cultural Activities from the Panteion University of Athens. She was an assistant director at Kappa Theatre, Media Assistant at Badminton Theatre and at the Half Note Jazz Club and editor at the cultural site Spirto.net. In this issue, Marie-Irene shares the beauty of Greece through her images in Kaleidoscope
Graham Wood Born and raised in the northeast of England, Greece has been home to Graham since 2004 when he covered the Olympics as a freelance journalist. He covers the Greek sports scene, but has also contributed features on travel and the environment to publications such as the Athens News and Kathimerini as well as wire services such as Reuters
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Corfu’s Big Moment
36 Party People
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The Wait is Over
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Aigina’s Deep Dark Secret
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Athens & Epidaurus Festival
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The Pool Report
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We capture some special moments from Insider’s lively opening night cocktail reception at Art-Athina 2016.
Athens & Epidaurus Festival
Insider leads a visual tour of the long-awaited Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre – one of the world’s largest artistic legacies.
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John Carr re-imagines Aigina’s dramatic backstory in Game of Thrones-style and connects the dots to a certain presidential aspirant with a bushy comb-over.
The Pool Report
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Our ultimate guide to the must-see moments of this year’s spectacular Athens & Epidaurus Festival – from the high-profile to the experimental.
Amanda Dardanis scouts the best watering holes in Athens to make a big splash this summer, whatever your budget.
ISLAND SPECIAL
Island Special
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No Man is an Island
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Art on the Islands
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In “The Greek House”, artist Christian Brechneff shares his Sifnos and its unforgettable residents in this intimate and beautifully-illustrated tale of a love-affair cooled.
Stella Sevastopoulos reports on the growing “artcation” trend of mixing culture with sunshine breaks – and reveals where to see the best art action on the Greek islands this summer.
Cocktails and Dreams
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5 Islands Athenians like to keep to Themselves
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Amanda Dardanis reveals her favourite island boltholes where you can dodge the tourist masses – all within 3 hours of the capital.
Arts & Events
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Fast Lane
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Homer’s “beautiful and rich land” Corfu manages to be both posh and playful at the same time.
Humour
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For the Love of Food
Fave Five
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Gastronomy
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City Life
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Corfu’s Big Moment
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George Pittas, master story-teller and the first chronicler of Greek cuisine defines his passion for Hellenic fare.
Culinary Corfu For the Love of Food
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Sections
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With ravishing Corfu firmly in the spotlight, we bring you the definitive insider’s guide to the island’s outstanding cuisine
Cocktails & Dreams
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The Gold Rush Greeks
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What to Read at the Beach
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Maria-Irene Moschonas homes in on some of the city’s best rooftop lairs to spend a balmy summer’s eve with friends.
Travel 28
Sport 48 Kaleidoscope
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Graham Wood introduces the young Greek Olympic hopefuls with Rio firmly in their sights.
The Gold Rush Greeks
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Short of a cracking beach read to pack in your tote this Summer? Book worm Anna Roins shares her top 3 picks.
Cover image by: Michail Alexandros Passos The Motley Goat Illustrated by: Fokia Kitsou
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Exhibitions
arts&events BENAKI MUSEUM (PEIRAIOS) The Equilibrists
Until July 31
A celebratory showcase of Bright Young Greek and Cypriot artists that captures the fragility of our times.The Future of Young Art in Greece is the focus of The Equilibrists, organized by the New Museum, New York and the DESTE Foundation in collaboration with Benaki Museum for DESTE’s 33rd anniversary. Working across various media, the 33 chosen artists touch upon themes as varied as historical memory, shifting notions of cultural identity, and the digital realm. Tickets €8. Peiraios 138, Gazi, Kerameikos, tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr
Until July 31 STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION CULTURAL CENTER (SNFCC) Panioyotis Tetsis – Metamorphosis Re-visit 35 celebrated works by the late Panioyotis Tetsis – the Painter of Greek Colour – as part of the SFNCC’s summer Metamorphosis festival. The paintings are among Tetsis’ masterpieces, and represent the major periods of his career, illustrating his aesthetic sensibility. The 91-year old Tetsis realised over 90 solo shows, before he lost his battle with cancer earlier this year and has been billed as Greece’s greatest postwar plein air colourist. Free entry. Evripidou & Syngrou, Kallithea, Athens Faliron Delta,www.snf.org
Until September 4
Until July 23
BENAKI MUSEUM Chinese Ceramics
THE BLENDER GALLERY Gifts of Poseidon
For the first time in 35 years, the Benaki Museum presents to the Greek and international public highlights from its singular collection of Chinese ceramics. See 90 masterpieces of ceramic art from the historical collection of George Eumorfopoulos, donated to the Benaki Museum in the 1930s, which testify to the global impact of Chinese civilisation, and shed light on the course of contact between China and the West through art. Koumbari 1 & Vassilissis Sofias, Athens, tel. 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr
Impeccably-crafted glassworks and antigun statement pieces by New York-based Philip Tsiaras, whose Murano glass works were made in Venice, alongside his arresting ceramics, bronzes and Venice-inspired abstract paintings. Plus the exciting piratethemed works of Jeff Koons’ apprentice Dionysis Frangias feature in Blender’s light and breezy southern art space. Zisimopoulou 4, Glyfada, tel: 213.028.0597.
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Until October 30 CYCLADIC MUSEUM OF ART Ai Weiwei
Until September CITY OF ATHENS 6th Athens Open Air Film Festival Athens is transformed into an open-air cinema as the city’s biggest film fiesta returns. Now a summer institution, see iconic screenings for free - from Aliens, and King Lear to The Tempest – alongside less mainstream film screenings, in some of the capital’s prettiest parks, squares and pedestrianized pockets. For a full guide to screenings and locations, visit www. cinema.gr
July 19
TERRA VIBE PARK Rockwave 2016
Dance
Enigmatic American songbird Lana Del Rey (famous for melancholic global hits Video Games, and Summertime Sadness) headlines at Greece’s biggest music festival this year. Also with US rock band Allah-Las and English-born Australian singer Lisa Mitchell. Tickets are €45 on the day or can be purchased at Ticket House (42 Panepistimiou, inside the arcade, tel 210.360.8366) and online at www.ticketpro.gr and www.tickethouse.gr Terra Vibe Park, Malakasa, 37th kilometer, Athens-Lamia Highway, tel: 210.8820426, www.rockwave.gr.
Music
Festival
Artist, architect, writer, filmmaker and political activist, Ai Weiwei is one of the most riveting artists to emerge from China in recent times. Now, Weiwei’s talking-point art is showing in Greece for the first time, in a bid to introduce Greek audiences to his moving and distinctive techniques. See some of his most significant works, such as his largescale installations and sculptures, many using reclaimed materials including ancient pottery, wood from destroyed temples, marble and jade, uniting past and present; the old China and the new. Entry €7. Neofytou Douka 5, Vas. Sofias & Irodotou 1, tel: 210.722.8321, www.cycladic.gr
VRACHON THEATER Swan Lake See Tchaikovsky’s classic “Swan Lake” performed magnificently by the Russian Ballet Theater in the last of its series of urban performances across the city of Athens. Tickets from €15 from Public, Papasotiriou, Seven Spots, Ianos and Media Markt stores and online at www.viva.gr. Tataoulon Terma, Vyrona, tel: 210.761.0616.
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Dinner in the Sky Join the Mile High Club as the unique culinary experience “Dinner in the Sky” returns to Athens for the summer season. A slowly-rotating table of 22 guests “floats” up to 50m above Athens, enjoying sublime views of the Acropolis, Lycabettus, Thision, as well as the Saronic gulf and Parnitha mountain. Price is €120 for a five-course menu based on the culinary traditions of different Greek regions, and accompanied with Greek wines. Technopolis Performing Arts venue and History Museum, Kerameikos. For reservations: www.dinnerinthesky.gr
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Up, Up and Away … It’s one thing to visit Meteora and her legendary cluster of ancient monasteries on land. Another thing entirely, we suspect, to see this mind-blowing part of Greece by air. Hot air to be precise! Which was why we felt a flutter of excitement when we recently learned about Meteora Tours, the first in the area to start offering hot-air balloon rides 4,000 feet above Meteora, (at sunrise, sunset and everything in between). Meteora in Greek actually means suspended in the mid-air. So we can’t imagine a more poetic way to witness Meteora’s heavenly pillars than from inside a hot-air balloon with not only unobstructed views – but an appropriate sense of epic drama! Meteora, in central Greece, is the biggest and most significant family of monasteries in Greece after Mount Athos. Located in the flat valley to the south of the Pindos mountain range, in the region of Thessaly, this UNESCO-awarded area is one of the most spectacular and unmissable places to visit in Greece (if not the world!). Perched inconceivably high atop their rocky outcrops, it’s as if these mighty monuments to the power of faith were carved there by the gods themselves. In fact, the ancients believed that the gigantic stone monoliths sculpted into their incredible shapes 60 million years ago by the erosion of pre-historic rivers - were meteors hurled to earth by an angry god. Flights of Fancy: Useful information The balloon rides organized by Meteora Tours last between an hour and 90 minutes, and take place all year round (weather permitting) from sunrise to sunset. Prices start at €180 for adults and €100 for children, and include transportation to and from your hotel, breakfast and a post-flight glass of champagne. The maximum number of passengers is 12 and the minimum required to conduct a flight six. Private, two-person tours cost €525 euros. To book a balloon ride, visit www.meteoraflights.com
The Secret Garden Even the Athenians often overlook the fact that in the basement of the National Archaeological Museum exists one of the most romantic cafes in the city. During the warmer months, this humble café migrates to the terrace, bordering the rectangular courtyard, where you can enjoy an atmospheric caffeine break while surrounded by lush greenery and rare antiquities from the classical and Hellenistic periods. Originally planted after the Second World War, the garden was in need of a facelift. Well, thanks to the recent 150th anniversary of the museum, it has now been transformed into a “Mythological Garden” (don’t worry, we’ll explain!) and is well worth another look. All the original trees have been retained in the revamp, and more than 700 plants (all endemic in Greece) added, along with a (small) artificial pond filled with water lilies and aquatic plants. The garden soil was also modified so that visitors can now approach plants without fear of damaging it. The whole renovation of the garden followed this soulful idea: to use the same species mentioned in mythology and literature of antiquity. To this end, the landscape architect divided the space into sections, each with its own theme. Every three or four months, six plants of each of these mini-gardens will be replaced to familiarize visitors with their mythological significance. New plantations will be developed by panels explaining their role in ancient myths of Greece. The Yew tree for example, is dedicated to the Furies, those deities of hell who cut their torches in the woods. A Mythological Garden. There you have it. Launched last week, the garden is now open to the public. Garden of the National Archaeological Museum, Patission 44, Athens, tel. 213.214.4891. In summer, open daily from 8 am to 20h. Free admission to the cafe.
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In Art We Trust! Insider’s opening night party at Art-Athina 2016 saw the bold and beautiful come out to play – from Emmy-award winning actors to diplomats, captains of industry and art-addicts. We found much to toast: in particular, the new generation of Greek “renaissance artists” who are creating such thrilling and thought-provoking works in these challenging times. Special thanks to our sponsors: Qatar Airways, Samsung, Coca-Cola, Pernod-Ricard and Radisson Blu’s Tru Catering for making our bash the hottest ticket in town!
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1. Art from on High with Insider, 2. Mari Deverikou of Radisson Blu with Tripinview’s Maya Gaki, 3. Insider’s editor Amanda Dardanis with Emmy-award winner Yiannis Simonides of Socrates Now, 4. Socialite-fund raiser Agapi Vardinoyianni and former Minister of Tourism Olga Kefalogianni with Insider’s publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades, 5. Artist Claire Tsalouchidi, 6. Insider faithfuls Kitty Malamou Bassatne, Kerry Petropoulos and Helen Palivos, 7. Shipping tycoons and art aficionados Haris Vafias, Irene Daifa and Nicos Vernicos, 8. The Suits: Konstantinos Papadopoulos of Ethniki Insurance, Stephane Iliades of Nexans, Philippe Genon Catalot of Credicom and Alberto Cano of the International New York Times, 9.The Irish Ambassador to Greece Noel Kilkenny, his wife Hanora and Women’s International Club President, Cristina Butler, 10. Qatar Airways’ Marketing Manager Foteini Konstantakou, 11. Coca-Cola Head of South-East Europe Vikas Chawla with his wife Shalini, 12. US Consul Abby Aronson with her husband, photographer Paul Cohn
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City Life
The Wait is Over Insider takes you on a tour of the visual highlights of the new Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre – one of the world’s largest artistic legacies.
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he Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre (SNFCC), wowed around 115,000 visitors at the Metamorphosis Festival (June 23-26). Renzo Piano’s splendid architectural triptych – the new union of the National Opera House, the National Library within a 210,000 verdant Mediterranean garden – was the cynosure of all eyes. Pure perfection of elegant simplicity and outstanding design excellence. The fragrant aromas of lavender, rosemary and thyme wafted through the air, accompanied by the travelling notes of music, coming from the various musical venues nestled in the greenery and along the canal. Music ranged from jazz, to Tan Dun’s ‘Water Passion after St Matthew’, where apart from the traditional instruments played, musicians also created sounds with water. From Laurie Anderson’s artistic musical revelries, to the rhythmic Syrian Omar Suleyman, or the street dance moves of Funky Habits and Waveomatics, who danced in the water fountains! On Sunday, Eleftheria Arvanitaki finished off the events in true melodic Greek style. Over 400 people of the arts made up the programme, and that was just a teeny taster of what’s to come from this cultural gem’s sparkling prism of possibility. Although the festival is over, the exhibition of 35 works by one of Greece’s painting legends, Panayiotis Tetsis, is still open to the public. Why Tetsis? Because he and Piano, are kindred spirits – especially inspired and moved by light, the natural environment, the sea . The Stavros Niarchos Foundation’s Co-president Andreas Dracopoulos explained in the show’s accompanying text: “The decision to collaborate
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City Life
with the National Gallery of Greece in organizing this exhibit was also motivated by an understanding of the profound similarities that exist between Tetsis’ and Renzo Piano’s creative visions and their manifestation in their paintings and buildings respectively.” He went on: “Panayiotis Tetsis was one of Modern Greece’s greatest, most creative, authentic, and perhaps, most importantly, modest artists. His paintings find at the SNFCC a perfect home, albeit temporary, created by an artist, Renzo Piano, whose work and character are defined by strikingly similar qualities: decency, civility, character and an unceasing commitment and drive towards an enlightened society.” Renzo Piano has created for the Greek people, a superbly crafted Ode to the Mediterranean, set in a picturesque landscape. In a talk with Dracopoulos (on June 24), Piano explained his labour of love: “The Mediterranean is not just the sea. It is like a recording machine that has been recording everything for thousands and thousands of years – sounds, voices, perfumes, light, vibration, stories, tragedies, joy, exploration.” He further added: “You have to absorb the poetry of the Mediterranean, which is in our DNA”. Renzo’s awe of Athens was heartfelt: “This city, this country is the origin of our culture”.
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The plans for the SNFCC germinated after the 2004 Olympic Games, when Greece was “flying high”, as Dracopoulos explained in the aforementioned talk. Despite the crisis, Dracopoulos and Piano’s plans didn’t hinder, because “Excellence, never hurts”, Dracopoulos stated. He also emphasized that it’s up to the State and the community, to support this project in the future, but also suggesting that the Foundation will be there to help - making sure its nearly 600 million euro masterpiece gets the treatment it undoubtedly deserves. And to think that all this started with Piano’s 10-second drawing on a paper napkin which nevertheless capturedinstantly, the conceptual greatness of this project. Proving that simplicity is the mother of invention and beauty. The Tetsis show at the Agora, runs till July 31. Visitors may also view the exhibition with Spyros Louis’ silver cup. The Vistors’ Centre is also open, offering information on the SNFCC. Check the site: www.snfcc. org for upcoming events. The Athletics Centre (running track, exercise equipment) is also open to the public. The canal offers visitors a lovely walk leading to the Esplanade, which takes you to the Taekwondo building by the sea.
Humour
Aigina’s Deep Dark Secret
Forget the summer hordes and the ubiquitous pistachios. Aigina’s real backstory is one that would put Game of Thrones to shame. Here’s what it may have been like, suggests John Carr.
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eus wiped his thunderous brow as he stepped off the boat. It had been a long and tiring voyage down the east coast of Greece from Mount Olympus, and his patience, never very durable, was close to erupting as his sole passenger still refused to talk to him after all this time. “What’s up? Briareus got your tongue?” the father of gods said after tying up the boat and casting an exploratory glance around the island he had decided to stop at. The place wasn’t very much to look at; the usual strata of ochre-coloured scrub gave way to a green-topped mountain in the centre. But the sea was calm in these parts, thanks to the protective arms of the mainland peninsulas to the north and west. The nymph Aigina got up stiffly and reluctantly took Zeus’ hand to step ashore. “So are we finally going to settle somewhere?” she said sulkily. “Oh, she speaks!” Zeus enthused. “To what can I attribute this minor miracle?” Aigina sniffed in sour mirth. “Do you really think you can get away with this, Zeusie? You think you’re hot now, but believe me, without that bushy comb-over and snarling lip, you’re nothing!” “Don’t do a Hillary on me, young lady,” Zeus snapped, his great brow spitting tiny streaks of lightning. “I abducted you for a purpose, and you’ll stay in my care because you and I are fated for something big.” “Hmph. Which is, besides your ego?” “Which is, you and I are going to frolic in the hills, have a child named Aiakos, who’s going to grow up and have a child named Telamon, who’s going to have a son named – but hey, we’ll skip the details. The thing is, Aigina baby, we’re going to beget a race of Greek heroes down to Alexis Tsipras and even beyond. We’re gonna make Greece great again!” Despite herself, Aigina sat down on a rock and laughed. “Boy, have you got it all wrong,” she gasped. “Telamon’s going to be from Salamis across the bay, and as for Tsipras, he’ll be born in a faraway barbarian mountain village near Dodona.” Zeus glared at her and jabbed a finger towards the depths of the Saronic Gulf. “You want me to call up Poseidon Bernie to give you a trident-lashing? Hmm, I thought not. Shut up and listen. I’ll—“ The Father of Gods was interrupted by an ominous rumble from the direction of the mountain.
“I thought you said the volcano was extinct,” Aigina said, her olive eyes wide with concern. “It was supposed to be,” Zeus muttered. “But I’ll build a wall around it just in case and make the Athenians pay for it. And while we’re at it, I propose a blanket ban on all Athenian immigrants until we find out what in Hades is going on!” No such wall, of course, was built. But the threat ensured that Athens would remain a foe of Aigina until well into classical times. And the island really wasn’t such a bad place to stay, after all. Zeus built a grand temple on the wooded northern slope of the erstwhile volcano, where he and his bride Aigina cultivated pistachio groves and vineyards, ate and drank the yields copiously, and gave themselves up to carnal pleasures. In gratitude, Zeus named the island after her. Despite appearances, he was a big softy after all. Their son Aiakos, helped no doubt by his father’s influence, set himself up as king of Aigina, though his mother had to tactfully dissuade him from taking on the title of Zeus II. Then the Fates moved in, tempting the Aiginetans to overspend and dig themselves into a morass of debt. But there was no IMF or Thor Schäuble to run to for help, and the inhabitants of the island wasted away in a plague. With no one to boss around on his beloved Aigina, Zeus waved whatever it was the gods waved in those days and made a whole new population out of the island’s ants. These folks became the Myrmidons (after myrmekes, or ants), whose descendants became an elite military unit under Achilleus in the Trojan War. The moral of this story is that even overbearing alpha-male celebrities with bushy comb-overs and trademark snarls can make history.
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Art & Culture
The Ultimate Summer
Festival Guide
A spectacular programme of music, theatre, dance and visual arts that juxtaposes high-profile productions with emerging and experimental works. Insider rounds up this summers’ performances and exhibitions and picks up the must-sees in the different categories
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fter the Athens and Epidaurus Festival’s trials and tribulations with the resignation of its former director, Belgian artist Jan Fabre, its new director Vangelis Theodoropoulos nevertheless managed to whip up a programme in just over a month. A new record, for the festival! Now, instead of Fabre’s proposal of a 2016 fest packed with Belgian names (and few Greek ones), Theodoropoulos’ line-up has a predominantly Greek character (and fewer foreign names). However, there are some great highlights, plus events are still being added to the list. Some of them include: The tribute to Shakespeare’s 400th birthday, the Festival’s closer collaboration with the municipality of Athens, (meaning more venues and happenings around town: a ‘people’s fest’ too), the Greek National Opera’s new production of ‘Aida’, plus a unique collaboration between famed pianist Alain Lefevre and the rising star of a composer Orestis Papaioannou. At the Festival’s press conference, Theodoropoulos stated that the festival belongs to the city. ‘This year’s fest is youthful, alternative, political, its role is to be National and International in character, plus to be a creator/instigator of culture and not just a host of it.’ Athens Mayor Georgios Kaminis stated that this much-loved 61-year old cultural institution has now taken on the role of ‘transforming the crisis into an opportunity’.Here are some of the highlights:
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Herodes Atticus Theatre July 2: Performance of Nikos Kypourgos’ musical compositions, by Savina Yiannatou, Doros Dimosthenous, the Rosarte children’s choir, plus Maria Farandouri and Dionysis Savvopoulos. Tickets from 35 to 5 euros. July 5: The Athens State Orchestra, under the baton of famed German maestro Frank Strobel, performs works for cinema composed by Federico Fellini and Nino Rota, enhanced visually with screenings of excerpts from Fellini’s films. Tickets: 20, 30 euros. July 24, 26, 27, 29: The Greek National Opera performs Bizet’s ‘Carmen’, under the baton of Loukas Karytinos, and stage direction by Steven Langridge. Rinat Shaham and Geraldine Chauvet take on the role of Carmen. Tickets from 100 to 15 euros. August 1: Conductor Vladimir Ashkenazy takes to the podium, conducting the Athens State Orchestra, with works by Beethoven, Tchaikovsky and Mozart. His son Dmitri Ashkenazy, acclaimed clarinettist also performs. Want to grab a bite or a drink after the show? Move away from the tourist traps around the Plaka to Point A at the Hotel Herodion - a perfect perch to admire Athens from above, it combines high aesthetics (check out their ongoing exhibitions), astute mixology skills, delectable nibbles and meals (210 923 6832). Indulge in a pre-show drink at the Acropolis Museum Restaurant (210 900 0915) and dine under the stars on Friday evenings. For authentic Italian pasta and homemade dolci, Aglio Olio & Peperonicino (210 921 1801) is a good pit-stop and Mani Mani remains a great address to discover Peloponnesian specialities (210 921 8180). Chef Baxevannis’ 2 Mazi (210 322 2839) is a pricier alternative for lovers of Greek gourmet cuisine. If you’d like to join the long list of celebrities who’ve dined at Daphne’s restaurant (210 322 7971), reserve ahead.
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Art & Culture
Peraios 260 20 insider athens | July-August 2016
July 2: Michalis Delta’s electronic music performance entitled ‘Life is Now’. Tickets from 12 to 5 euros. July 4-5: Argentinian Rodrigo Garcia’s avant-garde theatre performance entitled ‘4’. Tickets from 25 to 5 euros July 7: Film screening of Polanski’s ‘Macbeth’. Free entrance. Athens Open Air Film Festival 2016-Macbeth Up to July 15: ‘Atlas Project’ – an interactive multimedia installation by artist Panagiotis Vellianitis that explores culture, politics, nature and more… Free entrance. Open from 7.30pm onwards.
Athens School of Fine Arts
Until July 30: Exhibition of works by the art school’s graduates and post-graduates. Free entrance. Want to grab a bite or a drink after the show? In a district dotted with bars and restaurants, the choice is practically unlimited. For a light meal or a quick drink before the show, Hoxton Bar(210 341 3395). Prosopa (210 341 3433), a favourite with local artists offers international cuisine and is a terrific venue for postspectacle reviews. For a more substantial meal, The Butcher Shop (210 341 3440) with its large selection of meat platters (and a décor that lives up to its name) doesn’t disappoint. For Indian fare, try Bollywood Gazi (210 345 0041) or Kohenoor (210 345 5762) show. But for a last drink before heading home, stop at Plastiko (210 341 0308) on Sofroniou or Socialista (210 347 4733) on Triptolemou get carried away by the night….
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Megaron, The Athens Concert Hall July 22-23: Third World Bunfight Macbeth. In this radical take on Verdi’s Macbeth, Shakespeare’s story of greed, tyranny and remorse is set in the eastern provinces of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), amongst the wars and ruthless exploitation that tear that invisible corner of the world apart. Tickets from €5 - €35 Want to grab a bite or a drink after the show? Plateia Mavili is not what one would call a summer destination but one that has managed to service Athenians all year round with its trendy eateries and watering holes. For a last drink, regroup at Kyrios (210 6400615) or tuck into a delectable meal at Agora (210 642 6238). Or if you’d like to dance the night away, head to Tsoha street (that connects the central Vassilissis Sofias avenue to Alexandras avenue) - home to some of the best known night clubs including Balthazar (210 644 1215) and Baraonda (210 644 4308).
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Art & Culture
Epidaurus July 8-9: Aeschylus’ ‘Oresteia’, directed by Yiannis Houvardas. July 15-16: The Greek National Theatre in collaboration with the National Theatre of Northern Greece and the Cyprus Theatre, present Sophocles’ Antigone. July 22-23: Aeschylus’ ‘Seven Against Thebes’, will be performed by the National Theatre of Northern Greece and directed by famed Lithuanian director Cezaris Grauzinis. 29-30 July: The National Theatre and the Russian Vakhtangov Theatre (directed by acclaimed Rimas Tuminas), present Sophocles’ ‘Oedipus Rex’. (Tickets from 45 to 5 euros for most of the Epidaurus performances). Want to grab a bite or a drink after the show? Mouria (2753 041218) offers delicious Mediterranean fare - even if a touch on the pricier side. For ‘views to make you fall in love with Greece’, Agnanti at Koliaki (697 388 7840) is the place to sip a cocktail.
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City Escape
Astir Palace
Best Pools in Athens As much as we all love hitting the beach, when there’s five months of “summer” to get through (cue the violin!) – sometimes, you’re just more in the mood for a pool. Take the plunge at one of the city’s wonderful summer leisure complexes, or make use of the open-door policy at many leading hotels, which means you can enjoy their swimming facilities for the day, without being a guest. From high-roller options, to the more pocket-friendly (and even the free!), Amanda Dardanis scouts the best watering holes in Athens to help you make a splash this summer: Astir Palace – Westin
Not surprisingly, the spectacular pool at the Riviera’s most famous resort, Astir Palace, does take some beating. The Westin’s enormous pool terrace is people-watching paradise - and probably the Athenian hotel where you’re most likely to see Hollywood types and shipping scions while away a discreet day-or-two poolside before jetting off to Mykonos. Mix it up between the Olympic-sized sea-water pool, the adjoining man-made beach lagoon, or simply leap off the rocks into the sparkling Saronic Gulf below. Opening hours: 10.00-20.00. Entry price: €50; €25 for children (weekdays); €100 (The price includes a €50 meal at Kymata Restaurant until 18.00); €50 for children (weekends). Kid-friendly? Surprisingly yes, especially the shallow lagoon area. Astir also has a fantastic kids club. Where: Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000, www.astir-palace.com
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Arion at Astir Palace
If the Westin’s pool is Sofia Vergara on the Red Carpet, the small but perfectly formed watering hole next door at Arion is her serene, nature-loving little sister. Bookended by pine-trees, this blissful infinity pool looks out over Astir Beach and provides a true retreat for mind, body and soul. Opening hours: 10.00-20.00. Entry price: €50; €25 for children (weekdays); €100; €50 for children (weekends). Kid-friendly? So-so. Being far more compact than the Westin’s pool, rowdy kids quickly become conspicuous. On the other hand, there’s a lovely adventure park, recently renovated, on the grounds to help them run off steam. Where: Apollonos 40, Astir Palace Complex, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000, www.arionresortathens.com
The Margi
Balux
The Margi
Balux (Asteras Complex)
Divani Apollon Palace
Vertigo Pool Club at St George Lycabettus Boutique Hotel
With its distinctive green and white striped awnings, The Margi has the air of the iconic Beverly Hills Hotel; and its gorgeous compact pool area, is pure “Californication”. Even more so now, after a ravishing makeover. The Margi has created a slinky and sophisticated oasis in the heart of lush Vouliagmeni. There’s stylishly accessorised divan loungers, floating olive trees, and loads of lovely drapey canopies and shady nooks to retreat behind. A perfect spot for a special “ladies day out”, such as a baby shower, birthday or pre-wedding celebration, with great poolside dining and cocktail options. Opening hours: 9.00-19.00. Entry price: €30; children €15 (week days); €45; children €22.50 (weekends) Kid-friendly? Not terribly. Probably wise to leave them at home. Where: Litous 11, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.892.900, www.themargi.gr
Can’t decide between salt water or chlorine pool? No problem at the Divani Apollon Palace where you have both dreamy options, side by side. Plus, your day ticket grants you access (via a private tunnel) to the hotel’s lovely private beach. The revamped Kavouri seafront directly across the road also has some terrific waterfront dining choices (such as my favourite Garbi), if you don’t want to eat at the Divani’s poolside cafe. Opening hours: 10.00-20.00. Entry price: €35; €25 for children (weekdays); €50; €35 children (weekends) Includes entry to private beach. Kid-friendly? Yes. The pool area is large enough not to feel like you’re intruding on others’ adults-only holiday. Where: Agiou Nikolaou 10, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.891.1100, www.divaniapollonhotel.com
Located right above the sand at the sprawling Balux Asteras Complex in Glyfada, this pool gets our vote because you can alternate easily between sea and pool - and because of the very reasonable entry price which includes towels, super-comfy sun bed and umbrella, usage of steam bath, locker rooms and free parking. We prefer the more chilled-out morning shift from 10am – 2pm. After this, the pool fills up with beautiful young bods; the beach bar next door starts pumping out summer anthems; and a clubby atmosphere prevails. Opening hours: 9.30-18.00. Entry price: €8 (weekdays); €12 (weekends). Kid-friendly? Not at all. In fact, children under 12 are not allowed admittance. Where: Posidonos Ave 58, Asteras Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.1620, www.asterascomplex.com
What this chic and elegant rooftop pool terrace lacks in proportions, it more than makes up for with its epic Mount Olympus-worthy views and fashionable ambience. Nestled against the pine-forested slopes of Lycabettus Hill, the St George Lycabettus affords breath-taking panoramic views over Athens to the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf beyond. Opening hours: 9.00-20.00. Entry price: €25 or €40 for 2; €12.50 for children (weekdays); €30 and €15 for children (weekends). Entry fee includes a coffee or soda. Kid-friendly? Only the most well-behaved little people need apply. Where: Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki, Tel : 210.741.6000, www.sglycabettus.gr
St. George
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Hilton
Novotel Athenes
Another glorious rooftop option for those who like to swim with the Gods. The boutique-sized pool at the Novotel Athenes, is 4km from the Acropolis, in downtown Omonoia, and offers stonking views of the famous landmark, along with luxe loungers, free parking and drink on entry. Open during the summer season, the pool café Clair de Lune will also keep you well hydrated and nourished! Opening hours: 9.00-19.00. Entry price: €20; and €10 for children (weekdays and weekends); Includes towel, drink and free parking. Kid-friendly? Etsi-ketsi. Where: Michail Voda 4,Tel: 210.820.0700, www.novotel.com/Athens
Novotel
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Hilton Athens
The inviting ground-floor swimming pool at the landmark inner-city Hilton has a classic retro-60s feel about it, and has long been a popular urban sanctuary and meeting point for American tourists, corporate types, and Kolonaki locals who go to cool off during the Long Swelter. Opening hours: 8.00-21.00. Entry price: €25; €12.50 for children (weekdays); €40; and €20 for children (weekends). Kid-friendly? Yes. The pool is big enough to cater for the needs of all age-groups; plus there’s a kid’s pool too. Where: Vass. Sofias Ave, Athens, Tel: 210.728.1000, www.hiltonathens.gr For Insider’s Extended Pool Report, visit www.insider-publications.com
Semiramis
No Man is an Island Sifnos. The Summer of 1972. An off-radar Greek island with goat trails for roads and no ferry dock. Enter a budding young artist on a quest of self-discovery. In his book, The Greek House, Christian Brechneff presents a funny and moving narrative about his relationship to Sifnos, its unforgettable residents, and the house he bought in a hilltop village. It’s also the tale of a love affair cooled, as he tells Insider’s Amanda Dardanis. You and Sifnos. Was it love at first sight? At the tender age of 21, “love at first sight” had not happened to me yet - either with a place nor a person. But when I got to Sifnos, the place did radiate an energy, beauty and magic. There were moments of “shock “ where certain views [the valley of kastro/chrisssopigi] would leave me speechless with wonder. It was those moments that made me realize early on that I had “landed” in a very, very special place. There are many beautiful places in this world but it’s the people of Sifnos who made me fall in love with the island; with their warmth and humor, hospitality and sense of curiosity. What were you really searching for at the time do you think? Was there an element of wanting to escape the world? Definitely. I had been accepted at the Royal College of Art painting school in London and I felt pressure to excel - to arrive in London with a new body of work and ideas. I was looking for a meditative, lonely and secluded place. No Mykonos for me....I was also an extremely oversexed young man - insecure within his sexuality - and I needed to find a place I would not be distracted and led into temptations. Sifnos was perfect.
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When you arrived, Greece was a dictatorship run by the colonels. Was Sifnos touched by the political situation also? The island was very removed from Athens, Athenians were called “xeni” and life went on pretty undisturbed. Some of my friends thought it was immoral and politically incorrect to go spend money in Greece at that time. I felt that the people should not suffer just because they were ruled by a horrid dictatorship so I went anyway. Then cars, cable tv and luxury yachts came along – did they ruin the magic of this remote and wild island for you? By the time true progress arrived on Sifnos - albeit much too fast - I had changed a lot myself. I did not mind the high-speed, I loved being able to buy everything I needed; and I did not feel Sifnos should be some kind of museum for me to visit while I lived in luxury with all the modern amenities in Manhattan. It was the passing of a generation which was the biggest change for me: the old guard was slowly dying in my village and the new generation just did not have that “inner glow”, that magic. Old Popi in the book, my favorite neighbor in my village, was one of those people that once dead simply had no one to replace her.
Interview
Do you sometimes wish time had stood still? No, because it really never does. But living on Sifnos in the seventies and eighties, time had a different meaning and no-one really lived by their watches. Sifnos is something of an artists’ colony. (The famous Greek painter Panayiotis Tetsis had a house there also). How do you explain the island’s creative magnetism? There are very creative places in the world where I have “felt” that magic besides Sifnos, such as San Christobal Las Casas in Chiappas, Mexico, in the Swiss Alps of the Engadin, the Long Island beaches and the light of the Hamptons. There must be something in the earth, in the light, the rhythm of landscape and, of course, the sea. The sea just like the mountain remains a source of great creativity. Sifnos definitely “had it”. And it probably still does even though for me that “well spring” of creativity came to an end, which was the main reason I sold the house. Sifnos brought you fairly immediate success as an artist? (I read that your first show in Zurich featuring your Sifnos paintings sold out?) Yes, those rhythms and shapes were very seductive and of course, the magic of the light. My first collectors were all Swiss and for the Swiss locked within its mountainous world, the Mediterranean has always had a special attraction and that longing for sun and sea was expressed in those paintings somehow. So you went and bought a “fixer-upper” house there without plumbing or running water… is that an experience that you would recommend (or recipe for insanity)!? I was 27 and I had never owned anything before. I liked the primitive element. We were a generation that did not feel we had to have apartments with dishwashers and all that stuff. But today’s world is very different. House renovations can create terrible frictions and break ups in relationships. Money becomes a major factor. Even Tim and
I (Christian’s long-term partner) had our biggest troubles in nearly 40 years over the 12-month year renovation of our house in Hadlyme (Connecticut). Then, after years of painting your muse, one day “the well went dry” as you have previously said, and you sold the house. Did the island change or you changed? The island changed - and I changed for sure. But that house was never a holiday place. It was a studio and a work place. Once I no longer worked there, I didn’t quite know what I was doing there. Often alone I would call Tim and he was alone in Hadlyme and we were wondering why we were doing this to each other. It just did not seem right anymore. But there were little signs that would tell me it was time to move on. I learned not to hold on to possessions and houses. It’s okay to let go.... Have you been a one-island man? Any other Greek islands vied for your affections over the years? No other island. I have been a one-island man. I did love Olympia on Karpathos and Hora on Patmos, but I would never wanted a house there. Sifnos was it. Can you tell us a couple of spots on Sifnos that inspire you? You must hike on the island as much as possible – especially from the monastery of Vrissi down to Kastro. Climbing Profitis Elias [the highest point on the island] is an exceptionally beautiful experience particularly with a full moon rising. The valley of Chriossopigi from all sides is amazing. The Greek House, The Story of a Painter’s Love Affair with the Island of Sifnos (Tsigarida Publications, €14) is available in English and Greek from most Greek book stores.
Christian Brechneff was born in the Belgian Congo in 1950 and was educated in Switzerland and the United States (St. Olaf College. He has exhibited in Switzerland, Spain, England, Germany, Sri Lanka, and the United States, and his paintings appear in collections all over the world, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Visit www.christianbrechneff.com.
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Citronne Gallery Poros, D. Kokkinidis
Art around the Islands Sometimes, a unique cultural experience, even an artistic one – can make your summer hols just that little bit more sublime. In fact combining a dip into azure Greek waters with a dive into art, seems to be a growing trend on the islands. Athens Insider’s Stella Sevastopoulos presents the top arty choices you may consider this summer.
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Art & Culture
ANDROS The Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art (Andros’s own MoCA), is the bastion of island artiness. The original building (of 1979), houses the impressive permanent collection, while the New Wing’s summer exhibitions have been setting art standards since the late eighties. So it’s only fair to kick off with its George Zongolopoulos exhibition of 107 works, entitled ‘Interminable Plenitude in the Vastness of Abstraction’. Inaugurated on Holy Spirit Day (June 19, runs till September 25), it presents a wide gamut from the artist/sculptor/architect’s oeuvre: drawings, sculptures, photographs, hydrokinetic constructions, even magnifying refractor lenses. Zongolopoulos (1903-2004), whose metal sculptural creations also decorate Athens (Omonoia Square, Psychico Junction), was one of Greek modernism’s most pioneering spirits. Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art: www.moca-andros.gr/en/ The Kydoniefs Foundation, has also made sure that art enthusiasts keep coming back to Andros’ picture-perfect Hora. This summer sees to the inauguration of its 22nd ‘Ploes’ show (July 23-October 2), curated as always by the ever-creative art historian Athina Schina. Entitled ‘Epikrateies tou Notou’ (Southern Territories), this show is the second part of a tetralogy which began last summer, to explore art and the environment. The work of 14 Greek acclaimed contemporary artists will be presented: Daphne Angelidou, Nikos Vandoros, Markos Venios, Leonidas Giannakopoulos, Yiorgos Yiotsas, Anna Grigora, Nikos Kalafatis, Yiannis Koutsouris, Panos Balomenos, Ioli Xifara, Titika Salla, Yiannis Tzenos, Despina Tsakni, Yiorgos Hadoulis. Kydoniefs Foundation, Tel: 228.202.4598
The Kydoniefs Foundation, Yiannis Koutsouris
HYDRA Hydra’s most beautiful Art School (a branch of the Athens School of Fine Arts), welcomes you with its elegant arches as you enter the port’s amphitheatre of buildings – so how can this rocky little isle, that lives back in time (without cars), not be a favourite destination for artists and art enthusiasts? Collector Dakis Joannou’s yacht with its Jeff Koons designs is often spotted there. In 2009, Joannou’s Deste Foundation turned a slaughter house into an art space, filling it with impactful contemporary avant-garde spirit every summer since. This year, it’s the turn of internationally acclaimed Italian artist Roberto Cuoghi to exhibit. His show, entitled ‘Putiferrio’ (runs June 21-September 30), includes the transformation of the area around the ‘Slaughterhouse’ into an experimental space for ancient ceramic firing techniques.
The founder and enterprising spirit behind the Valmont Group, Didier Guillon plays curator for a second time on Hydra and presents new talents such as Isao Llorens, Quentin Garel, Lee Jung Woong and Yves Bélorgey. These artists’ works represent a distance from the over commercialization and mercantilism of art – a step back into craftsmanship and a certain contempt for any need of a creative justification. El Cuor no se Vende is on at the Historical Archives Museum of Hydra from July 1 to August 31, were not subjected to the selection of this last quarter of the century’s artistic production, a process that is so usually cherished it’s become mundane. www. elcuornosevende.org
But that’s not all on Hydra, there’s also the work of award-winning Maria Tsangari, whose installation will be situated along the seaside road heading towards Mandraki. Under the aegis of the Ministry of Culture and the Municipality of Hydra, and HYam, (Hydra’s Young Artists of the Mediterranean), the installation which will decorate the route with art’s wild flowers, will be inaugurated on July 2. Furthermore, the island is known for other events, such as the Hydra School Projects, organised by artist/curator Dimitris Antonitsis . Don’t forget to visit the arty restaurant too, next to the port’s clock tower – To Piato – where you can draw/paint a plate while waiting for your meal. Deste’s Slaughterhouse: www.deste.gr/hydra/ Deste Foundation, Roberto Cuoghi
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Citronne Gallery, K. Xenakis
TINOS This is the third summer that the Cultural Foundation of Tinos (itself a neo-classical masterpiece that adorns the main town’s harbour ), is hosting an art exhibition par excellence. But it is the first time that the show is dedicated to just one artist – the incomparable, Greek New Realist Vlassis Caniaris (1928-2011). Known especially for his avant-garde, politically-loaded sculptural assemblages that incorporate everyday objects, Caniaris was also a regular visitor to the island. This is also the first large show of his work since he passed away (runs June 25-October 31). The foundation also has a wonderful permanent collection, comprising 22 works by Yiannoulis Halepas (1851-1938) – one of Greece’s best sculptors. Tinos Cultural Foundation: www.itip.gr/maineng.htm SAMOS
SYROS If you’re a culture fiend in general, then just head to Syros. This is one island that is brimming with culture. And with all sorts of festivals running through the summer (jazz, dance, guitar, tango, an international film festival and more), how can art not be on the agenda? The Cyclades Pinacotheque’s Georgos Xenos show already caused a stir in June - next up there’s a photography show by the WWF of Greece (till July 5). But things get hotter from July 9-August 21 with Makis Theofylaktopoulos’ anthropocentric, expressionist oeuvre, which has gotten all the more abstract over the years. Also on the island there are other Greek artists’ solo shows (mostly), at other venues. To mention a few: the Tsiropina Mansion ( Xyfara, Valyrakis, Feidakis), the G&E Vati gallery (Schinas, Droungas, Makroulakis, Bouzaki) and the Roidis Cultural Centre ( Karahaliou, Kasimati, Zaka). Pinacotheque Tel: 228.108.0918
Apart from its exciting ancient history (Pythagoras, Polycrates, Temple of Hera, Eupalinos Tunnel), and its amazing beaches, Samos has now made its mark on the contemporary art map, due to the Schwarz Foundation’s activities, since 2012. The Munich-based foundation’s conversion of an old 70s hotel on Pythagorion’s harbour front into a super-modern art space, (also organising a summer music fest that takes place at the ancient theatre), has added to the island a sui generis international cultural dimension. This summer, acclaimed curator Katerina Gregos will be organising the show ‘A World Not Ours’, (August 4-October 10), featuring the work of Yannis Behrakis, Tania Boukal, Roza El-Hassan, Ninar Esber, Mahdi Fleifel, Marina Gioti, Sallie Latch and others. The show explores the refugee crisis through many mediums: photography, film, installation, video, performance. Schwarz foundation: www.schwarzfoundation.com/en/
POROS This pine tree-pervaded island, just a short boat ride from Piraeus, has been magnetising art enthusiasts and collectors for a decade now, thanks to Dr Tatiana Spinari-Pollalis’ Citronne Gallery. This summer’s show (June 25-September 17), ‘Aegean: Identities + Journeys’, calls upon the ‘transcendent intervention of art’ to help us understand the Aegean Sea’s social and historical reality. This enlightening expose brings together the artistic viewpoints of nine top Greek contemporary artists: Yannis, Michalis Katzourakis, Demosthenis Kokkinidis, Alekos Kyrarinis, Tasos Mantzavinos, Emmanuel Bitsakis, Constantin Xenakis, Sotiris Sorogas, and Jannis Psychopedis. The art works are accompanied by excerpts of inspirational poetic verse or poems chosen by the artists. The results? A compelling visual and poetic narrative for the viewer that explores the multifarious facets and undercurrents of the Aegean’s watery ways. Citronne Gallery, tel 229.802.2401 or www.citronne.com
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Ninar Esber, Schwarz foundation
MYKONOS Dio Horia is a brilliant new art space: a white-washed Cycladic house in Chora with three floors of exhibition spaces and rooms for artists-inresidence, a courtyard and a rooftop filled with avant-garde art, mostly from emerging Greek artists but also including a fair selection of international ones. The idea with the residencies is to invite artists to spend time in Mykonos and to produce a body of work that will reflect their views on what moved them. Marina Vranopoulou (who also runs the acclaimed DESTE Foundation in Hydra) celebrates Dio Horia’s first anniversary with honey; love; pheromones, a group show of Greek and international artists conceived by guest curator Rallou Panagiotou until July b24.
Dio Horia, A. Christodoulou
FOLEGANDROS
And more…
Folegandros, the microscopic Cycladic island, just 32 sq.kms in size, and home to the uber-chic Anemi Hotel, will be hosting its first Anemi Jazz Festival. From 28 to 30 July, some of Greece’s finest jazzmen will be performing to the islanders and tourists alike - Petros Klampanis, Christos Rafaelidis, Spyros Manesis and Thomas Konstantinou, to name a few. Acclaimed songstress Dimitra Galani will be presenting the Chronos Project – a fusion of Greek traditional music with jazz on July 29, with tickets priced at 12 euros. And a discussion on Galani’s Chronos Project follows on 30 July. For more info: www.anemihotel.gr
Naxos’ spectacular 17th-century Bazeos Tower hosts ‘New Mythologies’, where the work of six international artists will be presented via many mediums (June 18-September 25). Crete’s Museum of Contemporary Art (in Rethymnon) not only has a wonderful 500-work permanent collection on show, but also hosts the MedPhoto Festival till September 30. When in Rhodes, do as the Rhodians: visit the Modern Greek Art Museum’s spectacular collection of Greek masterpieces. Symi’s Los Art Gallery presents Turkish artist Ahmet Gunestekin’s work in July, while throughout the summer, there will also be a group show presenting works of some of the best contemporary and modern artists of Greece and beyond (eg Joseph Beuys). And to finish off the last of the summer art, head to Aegina: As part of its ‘Fistiki’ (Pistachio) Festival, the island plans to celebrate the Culture Ministry’s Yannis Moralis Year (2016) in style, with a show of his work at the Folklore Museum (runs from end of August to mid-September).
P. Klampanis, Ch. Rafaelidis
Aegina, Yannis Moralis Year
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Travel
5
Islands Athenians like to keep to Themselves
As a general rule, many Athenians prefer to holiday on Greek islands that are convenient to get to – but far away from “the masses”. Amanda Dardanis lists her favourite Athenian Boltholes – all within 3 hours of the capital. (Just don’t tell too many others!)
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Serifos There’s been a quiet buzz building about the island of Serifos, the Iron Lady of the Cyclades. Quiet, because Athenians would really rather keep this compact and unpretentious treasure all to themselves. Serifos lies an easy two-hour ferry ride away from Piraeus. Recently, it’s become a hip haven for a sophisticated breed of Athenian who prefers to holiday beneath the radar. Its many admirers cite the island’s feral beauty, the odd fossilised shapes, and the blissful beaches and Tahitian-coloured bays that furnish the barren, cinematic coastlines. Numerous eminent Greek artistic types – writers, film directors - have made their summer homes here, alongside famous architects and designers such as Paola Navone and Sergio Tacchini. Highlights: Take the scenic 1-hour hike from Hora, one of the most enchanted and unspoiled Cycladic hilltop towns to Livadi port below; swim at blissful Vagia (the beach is framed by wild lavender and capers) or Psili Ammos, two spectacular fine sand beaches; soak up the The Yacht Club scene, a cafeneon-ouzerie that’s the undisputed social nucleus of Serifos. Stay at: Coco-Mat Eco-Residences Serifos, where the high-end Greek global bedding company has taken 13 derelict stone miners’ cottages dating from 1908 and turned them into a cosy complex of contemporary “bioclimatic” guesthouses, fronting one of Serifos’ most enticing southern beaches, Vagia, in Koutala Bay. (+30 2106 251971, www. serifos.coco-mat-hotels.com). Getting there: Travel with sea jet or the speedrunner4 departing almost daily from Piraeus and reaching Serifos in about 2hr or 2.30hr (approx. €45).
Kea (Tzia) From Easter onwards, Athenians weekend at this cosmopolitan and languid island, a one-hour ferry ride from Lavrio port, in eastern Attica. Unusually green for a Cycladic island, Kea has an appealing independent spirit and has successfully avoided mass-tourism. Many wealthy shipping families own holiday villas, particularly in the upscale Koundouros strip. Highlights: Fresh fish at Voulkari Bay’s excellent waterfront tavernas; trek Kea’s ancient and well-organised panoramic trails; Koundouros and its sandy beaches; the lofty capital Ioulida, strung out across two terraced hills and home to the famous Lion of Kea. Stay at: Porto Kea Suites, a chic Small Luxury Hotels member overlooking the atmospheric port. One night for two people is from € 180, with a 2-night minimum stay at weekends. (+30 22880 22870, www. portokea-suites.com) Getting there: The Marmari Express travels to Kea about 3 times a day, departing from Lavrio port (1hr south-east of Athens). Journey time is 1hr. Tickets are €12each way. (Book online through www.viva.gr).
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Travel
Spetses Small exclusive Spetses, ninety minutes from Pireaus, got both the looks and the location. Dubbed the Monaco of Greece, this scenic pine-covered island is a visual splendour of bougainvillea, rotund palms, and handsome neo-classical sea captain’s mansions converted into boutique hotels and museums. On car-free Spetses, chi-chi horse buggies trawl fashionable Dapia port where sea taxis bob about underneath wartime cannon relics. Highlights: Linger over frappé in Dapia’s smartly-decked cafes; enjoy “Fish a la Spetsiota” in the aristocratic Old Harbour with the swans; go cave snorkeling at Agii Anargyri where islanders hid during Ottoman raids; Brandy Sours at Bar Spetsa with the locals. Stay at: The Poseidonion Grand Hotel (an island landmark immortalized in John Fowles’ “The Magus”). One night for two people is from €188-220-258, with a 2-night minimum stay at weekends. (+30 22980 74553, www.poseidonion.com) Getting there: Hellenic Seaways goes 3 times daily from Piraeus with a route time of between 2hr10m and 2hr30m. Tickets are €38.50 each way. (Book online through www.viva.gr).
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Andros Two hours from Rafina port, sprawling Andros manages to be both aristocratic and unspoiled. The many stately mansions and neoclassical dwellings in the main town of Hora attest to Andros’ brand as “the shipowners’ island”. Andros sports a wealth of exceptional beaches, walking trails and striking geological formations. This, combined with the island’s laid-back classiness, has long made it a popular short-haul retreat for discerning Athenians. Many of whom hope to keep Andros all to themselves. Highlights: Hike up to the ravaged Venetian Fortress “Castle of the Old Woman” at rugged Korthi; relax at stylish Chryssi Ammos, one of many pristine, accessible beaches in the south; visit the stand-out Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art whose past exhibits have included works by Picasso, Matisse, Chagall and Kandinsky. Stay at: Aegea Blue, a new luxury collection of stone beachfront villas built in the style of a traditional ship owners’ village. Two nights for two people are from €140. (+30 6985050087, www.aegeablue.gr) Getting there: Both Cyclades Fast Ferries and Golden Star Ferries depart for Andros from Rafina port (40km east of Athens) several times daily with a journey time of 2hr. Tickets are €20 each way. (Book online through www.viva.gr).
Hydra All it took was Sophia Loren diving for sponges in 1957’s Boy on a Dolphin. By the 1960s, Hydra’s open-air tavernas were alive with the sounds of poets, artists and musicians such as Leonard Cohen who adopted this bohemian island as their muse. No cars, no mopeds, no high-rises; donkeys perform the heavy haulage of luggage and supplies here. Hydra Life revolves around its elegant crescent-shaped harbour and its year-round cultural festivals. Highlights: Explore Hydra’s purest charms in the steep cobweb of lanes behind the port; relax at cosmopolitan Spilia, a rocky outcrop near the harbour with sublime swimming, cocktails and sunsets. Stay at: Bratsera boutique hotel, a converted sponge factory and one of the few Hydra hotels with a pool. Two nights for two people is from 173€-205€. (+30 2298 053971, www.bratserahotel.com) Getting there: Hellenic Seaways Flying Dolphin goes 5 times daily from Piraeus with a route time of between 1hr10m and 2hr. Tickets are €28 each way. (Book online through www.viva.gr).
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Travel
Photo: G. Pittas
Corfu’s Big Moment Majestic Corfu, Homer’s “beautiful and rich land”, pulls off split-personality like no other Ionian island. This former British protectorate manages to be both posh and playful at the same time.
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orfu’s feisty Kavos strip on the southern tip obliges the 18-30 set with beach parties and pizzerias. Meanwhile, the north-east coast, especially the lush stretch between Nissaki and Kassiopi, has been dubbed Kensington-on-Sea and is a haven for Royalty, Rothschilds and Russian oligarchs. Lying just off the Albanian coast, Corfu’s wealth of strategic castles and churches are legacy of its battle-laden past (the Venetians, French and British have all at one time held claim). Sickle-shaped Corfu Town (Kerkyra) is completely encased by two such fortresses; while the World Heritage Campiello (Old Town) has been compared to Siena or Dubrovnik. Corfu’s mixed heritage is also present in its fine museums, high-calibre Italian-influenced cuisine and in the island’s fame as both the cricket capital of Greece and the setting for Gerald Durrell’s Corfu trilogy.
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TOP THINGS TO DO IN CORFU Window shop while strolling at Liston Combine retail therapy with one of Corfu’s architectural highlights at the Liston. Built in 1807 by French imperial commissioner Mathieu de Lesseps, and inspired by Paris’s Rue de Rivoli, this gracious arcade is adorned with fashionable cafes and terraces and is an excellent example of Napoleonic architecture. The Liston overlooks the Spianáda (once a firing range for Venetian troops!). Now it’s home to Greece’s first cricket pitch. Capture the Castle Palaio Frourio. Scale the stately old Venetian citadel (Palaio Frourio) built on an artificial islet with fortifications surrounding its entire perimeter - and be rewarded with stellar views of the city and Ionian sea.
Travel Neo Frourio. Meanwhile, the new fortress (Neo Frourio), a huge complex of fortifications dominating the northeastern part of the city, is now open to the public – and is well worth a visit. Wander through a medley of medieval corridors and fortifications, where the winged Lion of St Mark, the symbol of Venice, appears to follow your progress. Eat at Etrusco Botrini Considered by many devoted foodies to be Greece’s finest and most creative restaurant, Botrini is a showcase of the owners’ passion for both Greek and Italian cuisine, served with flawless technique and a big blast of “molecular” creativity. Run by the Italian-Corfiot Botrini family, Etrusco, in the Kato Korakiana village, is compulsory dining during your stay on Corfu and absolutely worth saving up for. Reservations a must! (www.etrusco.gr) Meet medusa at the archaeological museum A pleasant 15 minute stroll from the Old Town, in the Garitsa quarter, resides a ravishing 56 foot long frieze depicting the snake-haired gorgon, Medusa, flanked by giant lion-like figures, her children, and Pegasus, the flying horse. This 5th Century BC carving, which once adorned the Temple of Artemis at Kanoni, is among the best preserved Archaic sculptures in Greece and is just one highlight of this fine Archeological collection. (Armeni Vraila St, tel: 266.103.0680; open 8.30am-3pm Tues-Sun.) Enjoy a Rooftop Cocktail at Cavalieri A famed meeting point for writers, actors, poets and “power people” since the late 60s, there are few better vantage points for a sunset tipple than the Cavalieri in central Corfu town. The panoramic rooftop terrace crowns a renovated 17th century mansion which once belonged to the Count Flamburiari family. (Capodistriou 4, tel: 266.103.9041, www.cavalieri-hotel-corfu-town.com) Admire Achilleon Palace, Gastouri A majestic neoclassical dwelling near the beautiful village of Gastouri, built by the Empress Elizabeth of Austria (known as Sissy) in the late 19th century after one of her visits to Corfu – and filled with her statues, artwork and original furniture. The vast gardens afford stellar views of the island. (Tel: 266.105.6245; open 9am-6pm daily.) Photo: G. Pittas
5 GREAT BEACHES Marathia/Agia Varvara Part of the uninterrupted sandy stretch southeast of Korission lagoon, Marathiá and its neighbor Agía Varvára, both have their different lovely charms. Gardenos (Paralia Gardenou) The south-west coast beach to go to for clean “five-star” sand – and lots of it! (roughly 2km). Longas (aka Peroulades) The ultimate “sunset beach”, framed by sculpted reddish cliffs and ending at Corfu’s northwesternmost point, Cape Drástis. As rustic as they come, Longas is for beach purists: it’s all about the water and the view. Myrtiotissa “Perhaps the most beautiful beach in the world” is Lawrence Durrell’s claim in Prospero’s Cell about this famous tiny cove housing three compact beaches (including a nudist beach) in the middle of Corfu’s scenic west coast. Issos The massive dunes of unspoiled Íssos beach on the southwest coast had a starring role in For Your Eyes Only in 1981. Decades on, Issos is little changed other than the wooden shacks of a windsurf school.
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Travel Insider’s Fokia Kitsou stayed at: CORFU PALMA BOUTIQUE HOTEL A charming and stylish contemporary retreat, situated in the lively resort town of Dassia, Corfu Palma Boutique impressed us immediately because it struck the perfect inviting tone when compared with the nearby mix of quite basic guesthouses and some bland big-name hotels. Fully renovated in 2014, the 4-star lodgings at Corfu Palma Boutique are both bright and breezy; while the exterior spaces create a luxury atmosphere of leisure and pleasure. We spent many pleasant hours at the shallow sandy beach, about a 5-minute walk from the hotel. (There are shady green pockets and child-friendly aqua activities, making this strip of Dassia a big hit with families.) But when it came to cooling off, we particularly loved the swimming pool area of the hotel with its adjoining Jacuzzi. Tucked away in the rear of the hotel, the pool enjoys a fertile garden setting, where you’re surrounded by century-old olive trees with the stunning mountains as backdrop. It made a wonderfully chilled oasis for escaping the heat and relaxing in between our many sight-seeing assaults on Corfu. Another high point was the food by dynamic young chef Andreas Stefanis, who studied gastronomy in Paris and strives to bring a more daring, experimental approach to traditional greek plates – as opposed to just dishing up standard holiday fare. On the last night, we were spoiled by a lavish gala hosted out in the garden with live music where we supped on Stefanis’ stand-out shrimps with tears of ouzo; and Belgian chocolate mousse with strawberry sauce. Meanwhile, bartender Giorgos Bozikis kept us in celebration mode throughout our stay with his fun and creative cocktails (there’s also a hale and hearty Greek wine list for those who prefer).
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After all this “hard work”, we re-energised with a blissed-out APIVITA aromatherapy treatment at the hotel’s modern Aphrodite spa (which joins forces with Greek company APIVITA to specialize in scientific face and body care treatments and deep rejuvenation, harnassing the holistic approach of Hippocrates). Spa manager Emily Moumouris has the Midas Touch and also offers Indian Head massages – a rare find in Corfu, we’re told. All the people working in the hotel were really kind and helpful, and willing to provide us with all those little details about Corfu that help to turn a trip into a “memory” and made us feel welcome at any time of day or night. Corfu Palma Boutique Hotel is 12 Km from the Corfu airport and 10 Km from the exquisite town of Corfu with its ample attractions. The hotel’s advantageous location, makes it an ideal base to explore the whole island and discover its singular beauty. Corfu Palma Boutique Hotel, Dasia, Tel: 266.109.3941, www.corfupalmaboutiquehotel.com
For the Love of Food George Pittas is a master storyteller who brings places to life and infuses the air with the aromas of home-cooked meals. A great believer in the goodness of Greek cuisine – its simplicity and its sheer range - he is the creator of the Greek Gastronomy Guide: a comprehensive, wellresearched treasure trove of the country’s culinary traditions. 42 insider athens | July-August 2016
Gastronomy cial cohesion. In Καφενεία της Ελλάδας (Traditional Greek Cafes), while generous references were made to mezedes and drinks, again, it wasn’t the sole focus of the book. It is only in the latest edition of Οι θησαυροί της ελληνικής γαστρονομίας (The treasures of Greek Gastronomy), that Greek gastronomy is at the epicentre, exploring the most important foods of the Greek terroir and its major producers. What, according to you, is the essence of Greek cuisine? Greek cuisine is quintessentially its raw materials, that are in turn, byproducts of its temperate climate and unique geophysical configuration. It is the consequence of the many cultures that have influenced it, the tug-of-war between the introversion and extroversion of the Greek. More specifically, Greek cuisine is one of sun-kissed clarity, unadulterated purity and the uniqueness of its rich produce. But Greek cuisine is also the ease with which Greeks invite foreigners to partake in a meal; the way meals are shared at the family table; or when complete strangers are treated to ouzo at the local kafeneia (and try and grapple with the concept of Kerasma!) Who is The Greek Gastronomy Guide’s target audience? What can one expect to find here that is unique to this site alone?
George Pittas, you are, perhaps the only true chronicler of Greek gastronomy, having travelled all across Greece and culled Hellenic culinary traditions from its far corners to present a comprehensive Greek Gastronomy Guide. What prompted you to embark on this ambitious initiative? I’m truly grateful to be among the first to be involved in the research of Greek gastronomy. As Greek society modernised and adopted foreign standards, Greek cuisine, for the vast majority, was largely reduced to tourist stereotypes of moussaka and souvlaki. Local products, tastes, customs and traditional techniques, in other words, the local kitchens of this country, risked extinction. Fortunately in recent years, there has been a minor revolution. Greeks, who were once embarrassed about their culinary traditions have now begun to acquire cultural confidence. Suddenly, there’s been a burst in the number of PDOs, a spike in the publication of books around Greek culinary traditions and a surge of young Greek chefs who’ve dared to explore local gastronomic techniques and to take them to a whole new level. As a Board Member of the Hellenic Chamber of Hotels and Head of the Greek Breakfast Project, I was personally motivated to encourage hotels to serve traditional Greek breakfasts, linked to the region’s cuisine. You have researched, photographed, written and presented all the material on your website - how long has it taken you to put it all together? When I first started out, 30 years ago, I approached gastronomy from an anthropological angle, and not from pure culinary interest. In my book Αθηναϊκή ταβέρνα (The Athenian Taverna), the emphasis was on the role of the taverna as a catalyst of social interaction. In Πανηγύρια στο Αιγαίο (Fairs and festivities in the Aegean), the focus was on the importance of local festivals in feasting, dancing and singing, even though the book had detailed descriptions of rituals around food, their symbolism, their role in the festivities, and on preparation techniques. The feast on communal tables, was for me, the rallying point for the revelers, where the community would confirm its so-
The Greek Gastronomy Guide will serve as a travelling companion to the discerning foodie, exploring regions and landscapes, production and techniques, myths and stories, products and producers, restaurants and cafes, markets, festivals and fairs ... eventually you will reach the soul of the place and discover its little demons too!
Greeks, who were once embarrassed about their culinary traditions have now begun to acquire cultural confidence. Of all the amazing people you have encountered and experiences you have had, is there one story you’d like to share with us? Each product and each producer has a history worth sharing. Every taverna owner or café-owner has anecdotes and stories that need disclosing. What can one say about the last handmade phyllo-sheet maker who has relentlessly worked daily for sixty years in his Rethymnon workshop, or of the last baker preparing Mykoniatika rusks in the island’s last wooden oven, or of the Pelion café where the likes of Papadiamantis had their morning caffeine fix over a hundred years ago, or of another century-old cafe, whose wall was painted by the legendary artist Theophilos. What would your ideal Greek meal be? The ideal Greek dish is one served with love, cooked with local ingredients, a cornucopia of each region’s rich gastronomic culture, a true ambassador of its terroir. Whether it is a dish at a family dinner or a traditional taverna or a creative cuisine restaurant, it should have a local footprint – so that when you try tomatokeftedes or fava, you are transported to Santorini. When you savour kopanisti and louza, your mind travels to Mykonos. Do you cook? If so, what is the one Greek ingredient you cannot cook without? It’s a straightforward answer. Obviously extra virgin olive oil!! Visit www.greekgastronomyguide.gr
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Culinary Corfu: A User’s Guide With ravishing Corfu firmly in the spotlight right now (thanks to the popular televised series based on Gerard Durrell’s Corfu trilogy), Insider has teamed up with Greek Gastronomy Guide to bring you this definitive guide to the island’s outstanding cuisine. How History shaped Corfu’s Tastebuds Corfu spent seven centuries under Western domination, a fact that has had a decisive effect on Corfu’s gastronomic culture and cuisine. Under the Byzantines, the local cuisine took a typically Mediterranean form, based on olive oil, wheat, wine, wild greens, and fish. The poorer classes ate very little meat and then only on feast days. Of the island’s foreign rulers, the British Protectorate 1815-1864 left a modest legacy of ginger beer and English puddings. The Venetians, on the other hand, overlords for some 400 years, brought immense changes with them. During the Renaissance, Venice was at the centre of the spice and sugar trade, supplying Europe with luxury and wealth. Venetian domination of Corfu extended to the kitchen and the Corfiot diet. They introduced new foods from the Americas and Indies and taught the locals how to prepare them. Corn, tomatoes, beans, peppers, coffee and chocolate were among the many items introduced by the Venetians, which were soon embraced by the Corfiots into dishes which have come down to us in nearly unaltered form. It is no coincidence that many favourite foods have Italian names and Venetian origins (bianco, bourdeto, noumboulo, salado, panada, papalina, polenta, porpetes, savoro, sofrito, etc.) while evolving over the years into uniquely local specialities. However, this Venetian influence was confined to the cooking of the upper classes because of the vast inequality between the landowning
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aristocracy and the poor farmers. This led to the development of two distinct cuisines on the island: one elaborate and one folk. The former used plenty of meat, fish, and game in conjunction with expensive spices and long preparation times, involving special techniques and intricate combinations. The high-point of this cuisine was Pastitsio Dolce, an extremely complicated Venetian recipe that has its origins in ancient Rome. All this was missing from the cooking of the villages and farms which relied instead on inventiveness and imagination to enhance its humble ingredients. Salt cod was the staple protein in the cuisine of the lower classes, prepared in a wide variety of ways: with leeks and paprika on Sundays, with potatoes and rice for Carnival, roasted with tomatoes and potatoes for the Christmas holidays. When roads were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries linking the hinterland with the coastal cities, social inequality decreased and the two cuisines merged into the unified Corfiot cuisine of today. Corfu’s high humidity and heavy rainfall required the consumption of plenty of calories and warming foods. The Corfiots found what they were looking for in pasta, hot pepper, garlic, and wine, and thus pastitsada became their most representative dish. Many of the traditional recipes are still served in the island’s restaurants, making it easy for visitors to get acquainted with Corfu’s gastronomic wealth.
Top 5 signature Corfiot dishes Bourdeto: A Corfiot recipe for fish cooked with sauteed onion, a light tomato sauce and a powerful pinch of hot red pepper quenched with lemon juice. Especially recommended for scorpion fish, cod, skate, grouper, and smaller, firm fleshed fish. Pastitsada: One of the island’s signature dishes, it’s made with cockerel or veal, and is often served on holidays or at official dinners. The meat or poultry is browned with spices, onions and garlic, deglazed with red wine, and then simmered with cinnamon, bay leaf, nutmeg, chopped fresh tomato, tomato paste and sugar, in which thick macaroni is cooked at the end. Eaten sprinkled with grated kefalotyri. Pasta flora: A thick pastry, properly called pasta frolla, made of flour, butter, sugar, egg and water, topped with home-made jam and decorated with strips of pastry. Sofrito: Another of Corfu’s most famous dishes, along with pastitsada, this consists of thin slices of veal which have been dipped in flour and fried lightly, and then layered with plentyed of finely chopped parsley and garlic, and simmered with oil and white wine vinegar. Served with fava or mashed potato. Sykomaida: Literally fig paste, a sweet in the shape of a hamburger made by kneading dried figs with grape must, ouzo or mastiha, chopped almonds and walnuts, and black pepper, and then wrapped in walnut leaves. Text and images by George Pittas, www.greekgastronomyguide.gr Recipe for Nerantzosalata (Orange Salad) In Italian, ‘naranza’ means orange – as opposed to the Greek ‘nerantzi’, which means bitter or Seville orange. Thus when the Corfiots speak of ‘nerantzosalata’, they mean orange salad. A dish which seems to have been widespread in Corfu, the recipe appears in Ninetta Laskari’s marvelous book, Corfu, A Glance through Time, 1204-1864, in the Corfiot dialect: Sliced oranges with oil, coarse salt and red pepper. A very simple, cool and aromatic salad, sweet and hot at the same time. Just dip your bread in the oil and . . . ecco il paradiso! Unfortunately, owing to its simplicity, you’ll rarely come across it in Corfu, with the exception of Ognistra in Palaia Peritheia.
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CityLife Life Greek
Modern Restaurant, Athens Was
Cocktails & Dreams We could wax all lyrical about how whiling away a sultry summer’s eve, sipping a fashionably-named cocktail, in one of Athens’ ravishing rooftop bars is a match made in cinematic heaven. Or we could just keep quiet and let these stunning images by Maria-Irene Moschonas do all the talking.
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Modern Restaurant, Athens Was A perfect convergence of hipster and Epicurean elements awaits on the roof terrace of Athens Was Hotel, a very welcome new (ish) addition to thriving Thission. Dionysiou Areopagitou Str 5, Tel: 210.924.9954, www.athenswas.gr
Acropolis Museum Cafe & Restaurant Toast millennia of Hellenic History under the shadow of the Parthenon at the Acropolis Museum’s much-feted panoramic terrace, situated on the second floor of this modern-day architectural triumph. Tel: 210. 900.0915 www.theacropolismuseum.gr
The Zillers Dear New Kid in Town (aka The Zillers). You had us with the industrious wine list, the too cool for school vibe, and the 2,000-plant vertical gardens. But that rock star view? Now you’re just showing off. Mitropoleos 54, Tel: 210.322.2277, www.thezillersathens.com
The Zillers
Acropolis Museum Cafe & Restaurant
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City Life
Thea Terrace, Central Athens Hotel The entire hill of the Acropolis preens before you and the perfect sunset is yours for the taking at this popular and democratic roof rendezvous. Apollonos 21, Tel: 210.323.4357, www.centralhotel.gr
New Art Lounge, New Hotel Elegant wrought-iron décor and 2,000-odd arty tomes dominate at the New Hotel’s fabulous Art Lounge. But really it’s elegant Lady Lycabettus who steals the show. Filellinon 16, Syntagma, Tel: 210.327.3000, www.yeshotels.gr
Claire de Lune, Novotel Athenes The perfect locale for those who like to see all sides to the matter: Novotel Athene’s Clair De Lune rooftop terrace boasts a miraculous 360-degree vista over the capital. Michail Voda 4, Tel: 210.820.0700, www.novotel.com
Point A, Herodion Extend your hand out just a little further from the Herodion’s dreamy skyhigh meeting point and your fingers might just graze the Parthenon from the comfort of your ALIAS sling back chair. Heaven. Rovertou Galli 4, Tel: 210.923.6832, www.herodion.gr
Claire de Lune, Novotel
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Point A, Herodion
New Art Lounge, New Hotel
Thea Terrace, Central Athens Hotel
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Sports
The Gold Rush Greeks It’s hard to believe that four years have passed since the 2012 London Olympics. Yet, here we are on the cusp of another edition of sports Biggest Show on Earth – this time in Rio, Brazil – and there are plenty of reasons for Greeks to get excited, says Graham Wood.
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reece, you can! (Ellada Mporeis!). The catchy motto for the nation’s Olympic campaign is as simple as it is full of positivity – something which the country needs a huge dollop of in these testing times. And the truth is that for the upcoming Olympics in Rio, Greece actually does have cause for optimism where medal hopes are concerned. Despite the crippling budget cuts which have decimated the capabilities of Greece’s amateur and professional athletics set-up, raw talent and hard work will always elevate those chosen few to the elite level required of Olympic athletes. Here are Greece’s big hopes for Rio 2016: Leftheris Petrounias (Gymnastics) What else can be said about this man’s remarkable talent? The 25-year-old from Athens is currently Greece’s golden boy of athletics. The reigning World and European champion on the still rings, Petrounias is in the form of his life. Chosen as the first torch bearer for the Olympic torch relay after the flame was ignited at Olympia on 21 April 2016, he is among the favorites for a gold medal in Rio. Konstantinos Filippidis (Track & Field, Pole Vault) Leading Greece’s strong lineup in the pole vault, Filippidis is at the peak of his powers at 29. Having recovered from a doping scandal in 200709, when he was found guilty of using the performance enhancing substance etilephrine, he went on to be crowned World Indoor Champion in 2014. He finishes consistently among the top eight in the world and although still relatively young at the last Olympics in 2012, he considered finishing seventh as “a major blow”. Rio could very well be the year that we see Filippidis on the podium.
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Katerina Stefanidou (Track & Field, Pole Vault) The last 24 months have been phenomenal for this young lady, who had been dubbed the “Princess of the Pole Vault” by the Greek Media. The 25-year-old Athenian set a personal best four times (4.56 m, 4.60 m, 4.61 m and finally 4.77 m - which was temporarily a national record) during the 2015 indoor season, culminating with a silver medal at the 2015 European Indoor Championships. Then in 2016 she set a national record with a huge leap of 4.90 m at the Millrose Games, which ranks her at fourth place of all time in the event, tied with Demi Payne who jumped the same height at the same meet. At the World Indoor Championships in Portland she won the bronze medal with a leap of 4,80 m, while setting an outdoor national record of 4,86m at the Filothei Gala in Athens, Greece. Nothing but a podium finish will do for this determined athlete. Alexi Pappas (Track & Field, 10,000m) More of an enigma than simply an athlete, USA-born Alexi, who has dual USA-Greek citizenship, is also an actress and filmmaker. The 26-year-old is among the fastest seven or so American women in both the 5,000 and 10,000 meters but decided to opt to run for Greece, where her grandmother was born. Pappas will run the 10,000m having easily met the Olympic standard of 32 minutes 15 seconds (she finished in 31:46.85) at a race in Stanford, Calif., on May 1. Pappas’ appeal transcends her performances on the track, however. She is a poet, essayist, actress and filmmaker whose semi-autobiographical movie, “Tracktown,” in which she stars as a middle-distance runner seeking a life of balance in a sport of immersive dedication, had its premiere on June 4 at the Los Angeles Film Festival. Spyros Gianniotis (10 km open water swimming) Liverpool-born Gianniotis is still hungry for medals at 36. After representing Greece at four consecutive Summer Olympics, starting in 2000, he became world champion in 2011 in the 10 km open water swim at the world championships in Shanghai. Gianniotis also claimed gold at the 2013 World Aquatics Championships in Barcelona in the men’s 10 km open water swimming, after suffering heartbreak at the 2012 London Olympics. Four years ago he missed the bronze medal by only five seconds in the 10 km marathon swim. Will Rio be his swansong? Ilias Iliadis (Judo) It’s hard to believe that the Georgian-born judoka is still only 29. Born Jarji Zviadauri, Iliadis’s family moved to Greece in the 2003 where he was adopted by Nikos Iliadis. Representing Greece from the start of his international career, he won a gold medal in the half-middleweight (81 kg) division at the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens at just 17. A consistent performer ever since, Illiadis also won a gold medal six years later at the 2010 World Judo Championships in Tokyo in the −90 kg category. After picking up a bronze at London 2012 four years ago in the middleweight (90 kg) category, Iliadis will be hoping to make it a golden performance in Rio.
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Book Nook
What to Read at the Beach this Summer Insider’s resident book worm Anna Roins recommends her top 3 summer novels
T
he paperback hauled in my straw tote has to both enthral and entertain when I’m heading to the beach. It has to bewitch me until the time comes when I’m inevitably flicked with sand by small, nimble feet or interrupted by sandcastles. In other words, I want a novel zippered to my mind like yesteryear’s skinny jeans. All three of these favourite reads from recent years have one thing in common; escapism. They’re little holidays inside your holiday:
52 insider athens | July-August 2016
The Case of the Fickle Mermaid (Pegasus, 25 January 2016) by New York Times bestselling author, P. J. Brackston. A delight given the unexpected genre - adult crime-fantasy based on a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. It’s like those colouring-in books for grownups - good fun that offers light relief. It’s about Gretel (of the gingerbread house variety) who’s now 35, still living with her brother, Hans, and a famous, private detective in 18th century Bavaria. Captain Ziegler invites her on his ship, the Arabella, to investigate the disappearance of two of his sailors. There are rumours a capricious mermaid is involved. When Arabella’s cook is murdered, and the sombre Quartermaster accuses Gretel, she must act quickly before the crew abandons ship. Ziegler suspects rival Captain Sommer is to blame, but Gretel has other ideas. She and Hans take off in a lifeboat to look for the alleged mermaid at nearby islands where they meet up with all manner of strife and dark adventure. Throw in some ill-fated wigs, some romance, and sardonic 18th century speech, and it will make you laugh-out-loud (a rare occurrence for me, in the Alpha Bank no less). This rollicking murder mystery is sure to compliment the sound of the waves lapping at your feet. My Brilliant Friend by Elena Ferrante, a pseudonym of the acclaimed Italian author who refuses to make her identity known. It’s the first book out of four in the series of the ‘Neapolitan Novels,’ with the fourth longlisted for the Man Booker International Prize this year. The novel has an end-of-your-nose perspective enriched by historical accuracy and raw, vibrant detail. It’s almost like reading a diary. It’s about the friendship between two fiendishly smart girls; the bookish Elena and the irreverent Lila, who grew up in a tough neighbourhood on the outskirts of Naples in the 1950s. They rely on each other to survive but buffet an undercurrent of rivalry at the same time. In adolescence, the socio-economic differences in their backgrounds force them down separate paths. Throughout the upheavals and joys of their lives, they satellite around each other; sometimes as friends, sometimes as foes. They embody a country going through a drastic change against the backdrop of rage, poverty, and despair in post-war Italy.
Ferrante is a true storyteller who doesn’t dress up her characters in flimsy personalities. Her writing is immediate and sharp. It’s like a homemade Spaghetti alla puttanesca; warm, salty and organic. You can’t get enough of it and your hunger increases as you wolf it down. Snowdrops (Doubleday, 22 February 2011) by A.D. Miller, shortlisted for the Man Booker Prize in 2011, is a psychological drama that almost reads itself. This novel has an unyielding sense of place. You are catapulted to the sordid, complex side of Russia in the early 2000’s where corruption, petrodollars, and violence prevails. It’s about Nick Platt, UK lawyer, working in Moscow who weathers minus zero degrees and glamourous, shady deals. One day in the subway, he rescues two classic Eastern-bloc beauties from being mugged. They strike up a friendship and start hanging out, until Nick falls for one of them, Masha. When she asks him to help her aunt broker a deal to exchange an apartment for one in the countryside, he doesn’t think twice. Little does he know he’s caught up in something bigger than he could ever have imagined. It’s a fast read because of its epistolary style (it’s prefaced as a letter to Nick’s fiancé) yet the extraordinary descriptions sear into your mind. The depiction of snow alone will make you shiver despite the block-out and burning sun. It will leave you breathless until the last page.
insider athens | July-August 2016 53
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54 insider athens | July-August 2016
Insider guide restaurant index by type
refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details
AMERICAN
TGI FRIDAY’S The Burger Joint The Burger Joint
Kolonaki Glyfada Psychico
BAR - RESTAURANTS
21 Restaurant Kifissia 360 Cocktail Bar Monistiraki 42 bar Syntagma 48 Urban Garden Mavili Sq 9 Syntagma A for Athens Monistiraki Abariza Syntagma Abaroriza Pangrati Acropolis Museum Acropolis Restaurant Apsendi Halandri BABA AU RUM Syntagma BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Barley Cargo Syntagma Beer Time Psyrri Bios Gazi Booze Cooperativa Psyrri Café Zoe Syngrou CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki Couleur Locale Monistiraki CV Bar Keramikos Drunk Sinatra Syntagma En Plo Vouliagmeni Bar Explorer’s Lounge Syntagma Gazarte Gazi HIDE & SEEK Halandri HOLY SPIRIT Glyfada Hoxton Bar Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro MoMix Gazi NIXON Kerameikos NoËl Plaka OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki Socialista Gazi Sofa Bar Vouliagmeni Spollati Monastiraki Step by step Halandri Stinking Bishops Kolonaki The Clumsies Plaka THE GIN JOINT Syntagma Throubi Plaka Toy Café Plaka Underdog Thiseio
BEER RESTAURANTS
Octoberfest Silly Wizards
Ag. Paraskevi Ag. Paraskevi
CHINESE
China’s Fantasy Psychico Golden Phoenix Kifissia Keep Woking Glyfada Nama Ag. Paraskevi Noodle Bar Syntagma NUI Kifissia Saipan Halandri Wagamama Maroussi
FISH
Ai Nikolas CAPTAIN JOHN’S
Syngrou Piraeus
DOURAMpEIS Piraeus Dourampeis Oyster Psychiko Fish Co. Platters Psychico ITHAKI Vouliagmeni KOLLIAS Piraeus JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni Nikolas tis schinousas Glyfada Nisson Gi Ag. Paraskevi Ocean Basket Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki Papaioannou Pireaus Piperia Psychico PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RAFALE Vouliagmeni Sardelaki Glyfada THALATTA Gazi ZEFYROS Piraeus Trata Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus
FRENCH
ARTISANAL Kifissia avenue Syngrou Blue Pine Kifissia Gaspar Food and Mood Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPIROS & VASILIS Kolonaki SPONDI Pangrati Tartare Glyfada
GOURMET
ALERIA Kerameikos Aneton Maroussi AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri CTC Hilton Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos F+W Kolonaki HYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia KUZINA Thissio MODERN Acropolis Museum of Greek Gastronomy Psyrri Orizontes Lycavyttou Kolonaki Pasaji Syntagma Polly Maggoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou VAROULKO Piraeus
GREEK
2 MAZI Plaka 310 Street Psychico ANETON Maroussi Archeon Gefsis Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis Berdema Kifissia Bluefield Burger Psychico Dioskouroi Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIαS GI Kifissia Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy Syntagma IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia
Krithamos MANI MANI MELILOTOS Olive Garden Pallas Athena PSOMI & ALATI RAKOKAZANO PROSOPA Rena tis Ftelias THIO TRAGI TO KOUTI YANTES YDRIA
Psychico Acropolis Monastiraki Monastiraki Monastiraki Halandri Halandri Gazi Psychico Petralona Monastiraki Exarhia Plaka
GRILL
1920 Halandri Telemachos Bbq Club Kifissia
INDIAN
BOLLYWOOD Indian CHEF Indian HAVELI Indian Kitchen Indian Masala Indi-GO JAIPUR PALACE KOHENOOR
Gazi Syngrou Syngrou Syntagma Thissio Glyfada Kifissia Gazi
INTERNATIONAL
All Senses Gastronomy Glyfada BAKU Vouliagmeni BUBA Kifissia CHEFI’S Halandri Cosa Nostra Monastiraki Food Mafia Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia La Pierrade Kolonaki Nikkei Kolonaki nolan Syntagma Pere Ubu Glyfada
ITALIAN
30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni Albion Psychico Al Dente Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni Aperitivo Glyfada Capanna Kolonaki Codice Blu Kolonaki DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi Dal Professore Maroussi DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula Il Salotto Glyfada Il Salumaio D’ATENE Kifissia LA CASA DI GIORGINO Glyfada Malconi’s Kolonaki MARGHERITA Kifissia Matilde Pizza Bar Psychico Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi Ombra Psychico Pausa Maroussi Sale Bianco da Salvotoro Glyfada SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki Testaccio organic Vouliagmeni TONY BONANO Piraeus Tutti a tavola Kolonaki
Tuttitalia VEZENE Vespa Rosa VINCENZO
Kolonaki Hilton Pangrati Glyfada
JAPANESE
FURIN KAZAN Syntagma Hama Glyfada INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki Koi Syntagma, Voula MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni OOZORA Kifissia RAKKAN Kifissia SUBA Kifissia Tomoe Kifissia Yoko Sushi & Bento Kolonaki
KOREAN
Dosirak
Syntagma
KOSHER
Gostijo
Psyrri
LEBANESE
FALAFELLAS NARGILE SUZANNA
Psyrri Kifissia Faliro
MEDITERRANEAN
Alatsi Hilton BAKU Vouliagmeni BERDEMA Kifisia BYZANTINO Hilton CAFE AVISSINIA Monastiraki Common Secret Kifissia DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MALABAR Vouliagmeni MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati Mimaya Glyfada OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma RATKA Kolonaki STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki THE DALLIANCE HOUSE Kifissia TO KOUTI Monastiraki TORTUGA Pangrati TRAPEZARIA Pangrati VOSPOROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus
MEXICAN
AMIGOS DOS HERMANOS EL TACO BUENO Santa Fe Taqueria Maya
Glyfada Kifissia Halandri Halandri Syntagma
MEZEDES AND OUZO
Antaios ATHINAIKON CINCO KIRKI OUZADIKO SCHOLARHEIO
MULTI ETHNIC
Altamira Altamira
Psychico Omonia Kolonaki Thissio Kolonaki Plaka Kolonaki Marousi
BUBA
Kifissia
PERSIAN
ANAHITA
Halandri
POLYNESIAN
Syngrou
LEDRA KAI
PUB RESTAURANTS
KEG ‘N’ CREW MOLLY MALONE’S THE JAMES JOYCE
Piraeus Glyfada Thissio
ROOFTOP DINING
ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq
SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB
BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Nea Smyrni SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki
SCANDINAVIAN
SAFKA
Kerameikos
SPANISH
JAMON PINTXOS BAR LA GABINOTECA SALERO
Glyfada Kifissia Exarhia
TAVERNAS
FILIpPOU Kolonaki Gaidaros Ag. Paraskevi IPIROS TAVERN Psyrri Kolovos Ag. Paraskevi O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma VLASSIS Hilton
THAI
ANDAMAN BLUE BAMBOO Budoo ROUAN THAI ROYAL THAI TAMARIND
Petralona Petralona Syntagma Piraeus Kifissia Metaxourgeio
TURKISH
Mutfak
VEGETARIAN
Avocado NICE N EASY PURE BLISS
WINE BARS
By The Glass FABRICA DE VINO HETEROCLITO Kiki’s de Grece OINOSCENT Vinifera Vrettos Whispers of wine VINARTE
Glyfada Syntagma Kolonaki Syntagma Syntagma Exarhia Syntagma Syntagma Syntagma Kifissia Plaka Maroussi Glyfada
insider athens | July-August 2016 55
EAT
Acropolis
Nama
Kyprou 50, Tel: 210.600.8936 Asian fusion cuisine with 20€ sushi buffet on Mon-Tue and 15€ Chinese buffet on Wed-Thu
Acropolis Museum Restaurant
Dionysiou Arepagaitou 15, Tel: 210.900.0915, Authentic Greek dishes right across from the Acropolis itself
Nanninela
Peloponnissou 13, Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor
Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci
MODERN Rooftop Dining Athens Was Hotel Dionysiou Arepagaitou 5, Tel: 210.920.0240
Ag.Paraskevi
EAT Gaidaros
Ellinoservikis Filias 52, Tel: 210.600.4724 A hidden courtyard with home-cooked cuisine
Kolovos
Peloponessou 75, Tel: 210.651.0989 Several reasons to visit, but its succulent spare ribs top the list
Octoberfest
Ag.Ioannou 82, Tel: 210.608.2999 Beer fest all year-round
Silly Wizards
Peloponessou 79, Tel: 210.654.3908 Great selection of beers and Mexican finger food
Da Vinci
Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience
Fabrica de Vino
Em. Benaki 3, Tel: 210.321.4148 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment
Kavouras
Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music
Salero
Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia
Yantes
Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.
DRINK Circus Bar
Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space
Ginger Ale
Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere
Vox
Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink
EAT
Faliro
Falirou 10, Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches
EAT
Modern
Da Bruno
Il Tinello
Bars, Clubs & Lounges
Kitchen Bar
Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea
Le Petit Sommelier
Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list
Suzanna
Orpheus & Chariton 5, Tel: 210.942.8129 Authentic Middle Eastern cuisine
DRINK Zinc
“Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music
EAT
Bollywood Gazi
Elasidon 29 & Konstantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210.345.0041 Indian cuisine in an industrial setting
Butcher’s Shop
Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes
Kohenoor
Triptolemou 41, Tel: 210.345.5762 Indian authentic specialties in a neat setting
Atrium
56 insider athens | July-August 2016
Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations
DRINK
Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cookin
Prosopa
Thalatta
Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours
Gazi
Mani Mani
Mesogeion Ave. 356, Tel: 210.651.1354 Island flavours with an urban twist
Exarhia
Atrium
Rovertou Galli 4, Tel: 210.923.6832 Refined Greek cuisine in a cosy setting
Νisson Gi
Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.
Almaz
Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world
Bios
Pireos 84, Tel: 210.342.5335 An avant-garde multi-level venue housing a bar, a basement club, art exhibitions, music venues, and a rooftop garden
Dirty Ginger
Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails, meat dishes and “hot” finger food
Hoxton Bar
Voutadon 42, Tel: 210.341.3395, A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London
Gazarte
Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events
Gasoline
Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights
MoMix
Keleou 1-5, Tel: 697.435.0179, Temple of mixology and high-quality bartending
PIXI
Evmolpidon 11, Tel: 210.342.3751 Get in to the groove
Plastiko
Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.0308 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood
Socialista Triptolemou 33, Tel: 210.347.4733 Mainstream bar-club in industrial setting
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Glyfada
EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Paul
Esperidon Square and Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.7169, A real French boulangerie that serves meals too.
Restaurants All Senses Gastronomy
Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 Lives up to its name of tickling your senses.
Aperitivo
Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.0377 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting
Ark
Grigoriou Lambraki 2, Tel: 210.894.8882 Chef Yiannis Baxevanis brings Miamiinspired opulence to Glyfada
Food Mafia
Laodikis & Filikis Etairias10, Tel: 210.894.2177 International fare with attitude
La Casa Di Giorgino
Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven
Mimaya
Markou Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4850 Creative Mediterranean cuisine.
Molly Malone’s
Yannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens
Mutfak
Laodikis 38, Tel: 210.894.9060 Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting
Nikolas tis schinousas
Diadohou Pavlou 48, Tel: 210.894.9550 Chic Greek fish tavern along Glyfada’s seafront.
Ocean Basket
Lazaraki 61 & Pandoras 5, Tel: 210.898.3183, South African seafood chain comes to Greece
Pere Ubu
Kyprou 74, Tel: 211.215.8737 Fab burgers, great cocktails, right next to the sprawling UBU organic store
Sardelaki
Foivis 15, Tel: 211.402.1195 Sardines and seafood in a casual setting.
Sale Bianco da Salvotoro
Markou Botsari 10A, Tel: 210.898.6301, Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere
Soleto
Giouvetsakia
Laodikis 33, Tel: 210.968.0460
Hama
Kyprou 82, Tel: 210.898.5554 Authentic Mexican food paired with any type of tequila you could want
Holy Spirit
Lazaraki 12, Tel: 210.898.0080 A perfect place for a family meal with great food and cocktails
Ithomis 20 and Moreos, Tel: 210.964.8081 Organic mageirefta food Grigoriou Lambraki 34, Tel: 210.960.0595, Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting
Su Casa
Spiti
Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.898.2650 Cocktail Bar with great menu and beautiful atmosphere
Tartare
Il Salotto
The Burger Joint
Markou Botsari 13, Tel: 210.894.8397 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare
Inbi
Lazaraki 26, Tel: 210.894.4982 Sushi fusion
Indi-Go
Konstantinoupoleos 15, Tel: 210.968. 0643
Jamon Pintxos Bar
Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.6089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy setting
Keep Woking
Dimitriou Gounari 70, Tel: 211.012.2801, Create-your-own Asian cuisine, fast and funky
Al. Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Gourmet French cuisine that draws regulars. Foivis 17, Tel: 210.894.0260 NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.
DRINK
Apsendi
Bars, Clubs & Lounges
Kifissias 250-254 & Serron Tel: 210.671.7890, Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere
Balux
Bo Botrini’s
Bourbon
Chefi’s
Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events
Capri Bay
Grigoriou Lambraki 2, Tel: 210.894.9995 Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden
Mikro
Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.1031 Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs
Vinarte
Marangou 18, Tel: 210.894.1511 A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool decor
Cafes Chocolat
Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur
EAT
Halandri
Tapas Bar
Triptolemou 44, Tel: 210.347.1844 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain
1920
Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210.681.3029 Acctent on meat in an elegant setting
Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens’ best table by far Perikleous 31, Tel: 210.681.5774 Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings
El Taco Bueno
Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460, Mexican flavours in a traditional setting
Saipan
K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia
Psomi & Alati
Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist
Rakokazano
Irakliou 1, Tel: 210.689.5501 Quality Greek mezzes in a cosy simple environment
Santa Fe
Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210.685.9690 Mexican food in traditional setting
Wine Not
Kalogrezis 12, Tel: 210.689.0007 Industrial setting with eclectic wine list
DRINK
30 something
Hide & Seek
Anahita
Spiti Cocktail Bar
Iroon Sq 8, Tel: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere
Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes
Kifisias 254, Tel: 210.677.6747 Great drink menu and perfect garden for spring and summer Αndrea Papantreou 9, Tel: 210.683.3677 Great cocktails and sophisticated jazz tunes
Vincenzo
Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch
CreperieS To Paramythi
Kyprou 9, Tel: 210.894.1361 Creperie in a fairy-tale setting
insider athens | July-August 2016 57
EAT
Hilton
Oozora
Agiou Trifonos 15, Tel: 210.801.8515 Japanese-Thai fusion Restaurant
Alatsi
O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas
Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties
Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices
Byzantino
Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist
Paul
Cookoovaya
Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare
Levidou 4, Tel: 210.808.4288 French boulangerie
Prytaneion
Hatziyianni Mexi 2A, Tel: 210.723.5005 5 famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors.
Galaxy Bar - Hilton
Oumplianis 14 & Dioharous 27, Tel: 210.722.8812, Different 6 course menus every night, with exceptional quality!
Leilimlei
Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400, Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money
Nixon
Agisilaou 61B, Tel: 210.346.2077 Top Athenian hedonist hangout for the 30-something crowd.
Galaxy Bar
Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402, Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere
EAT
Kifissia
Vezene
DRINK
Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis
Konstantinoupoleos 108 Tel: 210.345.1744
Milos
Meandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food
DRINK CV Bar
Baltinon 2 , Tel: 211.700.9383
Vlassis
Elaias Gi
Keramikou 51, Tel: 210.522.5945 Thai food in a beautiful setting
CTC
Vrasida 11, Tel: 210.723.2002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef
Tamarind
Kerameikos
EAT Aleria
Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting
Athiri
Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings
Funky Gourmet
Paramythias 13 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.2727, Haute cuisine in art deco interior
Polly Maggoo
Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210.524.1120, Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern setting.
Safka
Megalou Alexandrou 80-82, Tel: 210.524.3340, Scandinavian cuisine
58 insider athens | July-August 2016
21 Restaurant
Kolokotroni 21, Tel: 210.623.352, Highly recommended. Refined al-fresco dining with excellent service
Artisanal
Zirini 2, Tel: 693.614.4744 Unique lounge & garden with exceptional classy touch
Berdema
Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, Tel: 210.620.1108 Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare
Blue Pine
P.Tsaldari 37, Tel: 210.807.7745 A hark back to retro Athens
Buba
Papadiamanti 4, Tel: 210.623.1151 Mixing pot of cuisines from around the world
Cash
Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine
Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.620.0005 The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world
Golden Phoenix
Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet
Gourounakia Kifissias
Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters
Il Salumaio di Atene
Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals
Jaipur Palace
Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines
Kastelorizo
Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please
Kokkino Psaraki
Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna
Kool Life
Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400 Innovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli
La Gabinoteca
Th. Diligianni 56, Kefalari Tel: 210.808.3988 Tapas bar with decadent atmosphere
Margherita
Kifisias 363, Tel: 211.408.1132 Fantastic pizza made with local ingredients from all over Greece
Nargile
Common Secret
Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting
Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience
Dos Hermanos
Nui
Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas
Gortinias 11, Tel: 210.801.3553 Gourmet mutli-Asian restaurant
Rakkan
Kifisias 238-240, Tel: 210.808.7941 Japanese restaurant, bar, lounge with signature cocktails
Royal Thai
Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting
Semiramis Restaurant
Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere
Suba
Levidou 11, Tel: 210.808.5586 A blend of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine
Telemachos Barbeque Club Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection
The Dalliance House
Kyriazis 19, Tel: 210.623.0775 The 19th century meets the 21st in beautiful setting, with successful recipes
Tomoe
Gortinias 11& Dangli, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.3553 Great sushi at terrific prices
DRINK Dyo 48
Kifisias 248, Tel: 210.623.0870 New hang out oasis with retro ambience
Mento CafĂŠ
Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe
Vinifera
Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world
Food & Wine Cellier
Kifissias 369, Tel: 210.801.8756 By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
Kalamaki Kolonaki
Bakeries & Patisseries
Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy
Cake
Kiku
Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more
Fresh
Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948 Desserts and cakes
Restaurants Altamira
Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210.361.4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine
Cafe Boheme
Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails
Capanna
Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare
Cinco
Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.3603 Great cocktails and specialty tapas
Codice Blu
Haritos & Loukianou, Tel: 210.723.0896 Italian cuisine, great for family brunches and people-watching.
F+W
Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.721.1146 Gourmet food by Oliver Campanha
Filippou
Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes
Freud Oriental
Xenokratous 21 Tel: 210.729.9595 Creative fusion cuisine
IT restaurant
Skoufa 29, Tel: 210.363.5773, Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment.
Sale e Pepe
Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria
Scala Vinoteca
Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi
Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining
L’Abreuvoir
Showroom
Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine
La Pierrade
Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours
Spefsippou 30, Tel: 210.723.7297 Elegant setting, refined cuisine, extremely polite service.
Simul
La Suite Lounge
Lachitos 5, Tel: 210.723.7575 Original French cuisine
St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.741.6000 Gourmet Greek cuisine
Malconi’s
Patriarchou Ioakeim 43 & Ploutarxou, Tel: 210.724.8920 Great food, bustling atmosphere.
Nice n Easy
Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music
Nikkei
Leventi 3, Tel: 210.723.9366 Peruvian aromas and flavours in Kolonaki!
Orizontes Lycavyttou
Mai Tai
Ipsilantou 63, Tel: 722.4737
Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere
Spiros & Vasilis
Rosebud
Stinking Bishops
Omirou 60 & Skoufa 40, Tel: 210.339.2370 All day hang-out with music ranging from jazz to famous soundtracks
Suba Restaurant
Skoufaki
TGI Friday’s
Ten
Kolokotroni 35, Tel: 210.623.3945, American restaurant with real steak and barbecuesauce for casual dining!
Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.721.0161 One of the most popular hot spots in town
Tutti a Tavola
Cafés
Loukianou 36, Tel: 213.026.3656 Fashionable gastro pub Skoufa 58 & Sina, Tel: 210.338.8211 Authentic sushi in the heart of the city
Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view
Spefsippou 8, Tel: 210.722.2785 Authentic Italian trattoria at affordable prices.
Ouzadiko
Tuttitalia
Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo
Papadakis
Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros’ legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens
Ratka
Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine
Valaoritou 14, Tel: 210.338.9669 An authentic and hospitable Italian trattoria
Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar
Da Capo
Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.360.2497 Long-established people-watching hangout
Peros
Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot
Yoko Sushi & Bento
39 Patriarchou Ioakeim Tel: 210.342.4654 Fresh sushi to-go!
Tea To Tsai
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges 56
Soutsou 19, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world
EAT
Ploutarchou 56, Tel: 210.723.1424 A quaint jazzy whiskey bar for the discerning
Agani
City
Altamira
Charitos 43, Tel: 210.722.8910 Modern aesthetics, mutli-culti crowd and soulful music
London str 72
Nice N Easy
IT Restaurant
Maroussi
Kolonaki
EAT
Solonos 72, Tel: 693.951.1760, 690.607.3362 Union jacks and red telephone booths in an all day bar-restaurant
Kifissias 22, Tel: 210.277.7065 Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine Perikleous 28, Tel: 210.612.8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment
Aneton
Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfychic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s
insider athens | July-August 2016 59
Agiou Konstantinou 56, Tel: 210.610.9988, Italian menu with a menu that changes daily!
Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd
Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must
Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats
Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051, Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor
Mavili Sq
EAT 48 Urban Garden
Armatolon kai Klefton 48, Tel: 210.80.18.515 Cool, minimalist environment and interesting, fusion cuisine.
Fuga
Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210.724.2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall
Ginger
Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere
St’Astra
Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience
To Parko Eleftherias
Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784 Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park
Couleur Locale
Normanou 3, Tel: 206.700.4917 A young scene with great cocktails and affordable finger food overlooking the Acropolis
Café Avissinia
Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Specializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.
Savvas
Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali
Sigalas-Bairaktaris
Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes
Souvlaki Bar
Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210.515.0550
Stou Meïdani
Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes
CAFes
Miaouli 2-4, Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis
Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare
Kalamiotou 19, Tel: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients
360 Cocktail Bar A for Athens
Bairaktaris
Melilotos
DRINK
Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531 Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens
Ifestou 2, Tel: 210.321.0006
EAT
Cosa Nostra
To Kouti
Loukoumi Bar
Plateia Avissinias 3, Tel: 210.323.4814 An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views
Six Dogs
Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.
Spollati
Aiolou 27A, Tel: 215.551.3004 A delicious combination of signature cocktails with homemade syrups and funky Mediterranean cuisine
Taf
Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions
CAFes Mokka
Athinas 44, Tel: 210.321.6892 Best espresso in town.
Tailor Made
Aghias Irinis Square 2, Tel: 213.004.9645 Trendy and hip coffee shop and cocktail bar.
Omonia
Whispers of wine
Dorileou 6, Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout
Monastiraki
Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting
Briki
EAT Athinaikon
Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri
Ideal Restaurant
Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor
Olive Garden 48 Urban Garden
60 insider athens | July-August 2016
Pallas Athena
Athinas 65 & Lykourgou Tel: 210.325.0900 Urban design, organic cuisine, Cretan deli corner
Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora
Baraonda
Pausa
Wagamama
Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise
Balthazar
Mauzac
Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines
Thanassis
Hotel Titania, Panepistimiou 52, Tel: 210.332.600. Good food and great view of the Acropolis.
Trata
Cosa Nostra
Agias Theklas 5, Tel: 210.331.0900 Excellent Italian food with a 1920’s Chicago retro atmosphere.
EAT
Pangrati
DRINK
Dal Professore
Fatsio
Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip
Mavro Provato
Ariannou 31, Tel: 210.722.3466 Best value-for-money meal in Athens
Spondi
Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021, A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens
Tortuga
Archimidous 1, Tel: 213.030.7520, Healthy, affordable street-style food.
Trapezaria
Efronionos 13, Tel: 210.921.3500, Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting
Trata o Stelios
Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town
Vespa Rosa
Naiadon 2, Tel: 210.723.4551 Great value-for-money Italian cuisine
DRINK LIVE BARS Abaroriza
Plastira Square 10, Tel: 210.701.9530 A pet friendly place with long balcony tables that fill up every night
Half Note Jazz Club
Trivonianou 17, Tel: 210.921.3310 A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene.
Superfly
Empedokleous 28-30, Tel: 211.404.6076 The new hot spot for retro gamers
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
Alopis 65, Athens, Tel: 211.210.4939, Thai food in an exotic setting
Blue Bamboo
Kydantidon 24, Tel: 210.342.3124, Thai food with modern interior design
Thio Tragi
Kidatidon 36, Tel: 210.341.0296 Creative gourmet kitchen with high quality ingredients
DRINK Kurios Hou
Yperionos 1 & Dimofontos, Tel: 210.342.3972, Among Petralona’s trendy dining options with attitude.
Piraeus
EAT Captain John’s
Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood
Dourambeis
Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna
Jimmy and The Fish
Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.412.4417 Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada
Keg ‘n’ Crew
Akti Miaouli 83, Tel: 210.429.0396 Comfort food and cold beers
Kollias
Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends
Papaioannou
Akti Koumoundourou 42, Tel: 210.422.5059, For Greek fish specialities on the harbourfront.
Notara 131, Piraeus, Tel: 210.429.4494, Home-style Thai food
Tony Bonano
Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour enu!
New m hes for Ak. Koumoundourou 52, 5 dis 50€ Mikrolimano, Tel: 210.522.8400 Varoulko
Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou
Vassilenas
Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere
Vosporos
Akti Koumoundourou 20, Tel: 210.412.7324, Mediterranean dining with a sea view.
Zefyros
Ak. Koumoundourou 48, Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay
Zorbas
Ak. Koumoundourou 14, Tel: 210.411.1663 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean
DRINK
Ydria
Adrianou 68 & Eolou, Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine
China’s Fantasy
DRINK
Dioskouroi
Dim. Vasiliou 16, Tel: 210.671.3997 All day café-restaurant
Noël
Dourampeis Oyster
Kolokotroni 59B, Tel: 211.215.9534 An evening lounge scene with friendly service and Italian inspired food and drink
The Clumsies
Istioploikos
Katafigio
Aghias Eirinis Square & Vasilikis 1, Tel: 210.323.0926, A cozy and colorful space with a good selection of coffee and cocktails
Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina Ak. Koumoundourou 4, Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house
EAT 2 Mazi
Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly
Brettos
Kydathaneon 41, Tel: 210.323.2110, Legendary watering-hole in the Plaka district
Daphne’s Restaurant
Electra
Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine
Mono Wine Restaurant
Venizelou Paleologou 4, Tel: 210.322.6711 Unpretentious gourmet cuisine
Scholarheio
Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices
Kambouroglou 32, Tel: 210.674.9889 Chinese cuisine
Bars, Clubs & Lounges
Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Features tasty cocktails and premium spirits that attract all ages
Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere
Varoulko
Albion
Throubi
Toy Cafe
Karytsi 10, Tel: 210.331.1555 Jazz and funk venue that started the Karytsi street scene
EAT
Psychico
Andaman
Rouan Thai
Plaka
Petralona
EAT
310 Street
Andrianiou 37, Tel: 210.671.0100 Delectable seafood and frech oysters
Fish Co. Platters
Perikleous 11, Tel: 210.671.1976 A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna
Gaspar Food and Mood
Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.677.5011, Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches
Krithamos
Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, Tel: 210.672.8790 Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere
Matilde Pizza Bar
Perikleous 7, Tel: 210.671.6803 Italian fare with accent on high quality ingredients
Kifissias Av. 310, Tel: 210.671.0688 Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look
Ombra
Albion
Piperia
Omirou 6, Tel: 210.674.0710 Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere
Antaios
G. Drosini 7, Tel: 210.675.5493 Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes
Bluefield Burger
Aggelopoulou 3, Tel: 210.677.7739 For real American burgers
The Burger Joint
Solomou 4-6, Tel: 210.671.2222, New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment.
Olimpionikon 220 & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.671.1320 Italian food with attitude Agg. Sikelianou 8 & Andrianiou, Tel: 210.672.9114 Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours
Rena tis Ftelias
25th Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874 Highly recommended Greek taverna
DRINK CAFES Kudu
25th Martiou 22, Tel: 217.722.3040 Authentic coffee experience.
insider athens | July-August 2016 61
Diporto
Theatrou & Sokratous, Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava
Falafellas
Aiolou 51,Tel: 210.323.9809 Gourmet ethnic street food
Gostijo
Aisopou 10 street, Tel: 210.323.3825, Kosher menu and Mediterranean “repertoire”
EAT
Nolan
Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises
Noodle Bar
Syntagma
Psyrri
EAT
Ipiros Tavern
Athens Central Market Filopimenos 4, Tel: 210.324.0773, Great traditional Greek tavern, an excellent place for lunch
Voulis 31-33, Tel:210.324.3545 Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix
Nikis 13, Syntagma Tel: 210.323.9829 Fresh bagels and French pastries
O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigas
Avocado
Nikis 30, Tel: 210.323.7878 Vegetarian restaurant
Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements
Budoo
Osterman
Lekka 14, Tel: 210.331.3845 Authentic Thai
By The Glass
Souri 2, Tel: 210.323.2560 Charming wine bar with character Stoa Spiliomilou,Tel: 210.321.1315, Refined cuisine in chic setting
Museum of Greek Gastronomy
Agiou Dimitrious Street, Tel: 210.321.1311, Modern Hellenic cuisine and avant-garde gastronomic exhibitions.
Ochre & Brown
Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the perfect heart of Athens
Ktena 1, Athens, Tel: 210.321.0551 mome Funky interior, a delightful patch of nts green space
Furin Kazan
Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike
DRINK
GB Corner
Bars, Clubs & Lounges Beer Time
Iroon Square 1, Tel: 210.322.8443 Relaxed atmosphere with wide selection of microbrews
Booze Cooperativa
Kolokotroni 57, Tel: 211.405.3733 A multi-purpose meeting venue for drinks, performances, and games
Hotel Grand Bretagne, Tel: 210.333.0750, Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine
Leokoriou 8, Tel: 210.325.1668, Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing
Dude
Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”
Paul
Abariza
Plaza Lounges
Alexander’s
NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 All day lounge with salads & snacks
Pure Bliss
Romvis 24A, Tel: 210.325.0362 Gluten-free bliss for unconventional foodies
Taqueria Maya
Petraki 10, Tel: 211.216.7081, Feisty Mexican street food choices at pocket-friendly prices
The Parliament
Indian Kitchen
Apollonos 6, Tel: 210.323.7720
NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400, International cuisine with Mediterranean accents
Ioannis
Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge
Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop
Kiki’s de Grece
Cantina Social
for
Feedέλ Urban Gastronomy al-fresc o
Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine
9
Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie
Dosirak
Sari 40, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music
Ipitou and Voulis 38,Tel: 210.321.1279 Cosy wine bar with French flair
Koi
15 Nikis, Tel: 210.321.1099 Affordable street-food style sushi
New Taste
New Hotel, Filellinon 16, Tel: 210.327.3170, Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist
King George Hotel, Vas. Georgiou A3, Tel: 210.322.2210, Elegant setting, refined cuisine and an incredible Acropolis view
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges 42 Bar
Kolokotroni 3, Tel: 694.824.2455, Delicious creative cocktails and mixology
The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel recommends EAT
DRINK
DO
New Mayor, Kolonaki, Athens Classic Spondi Restaurant, Pangrati, Athens Alternative Aleria, Kerameikos, Athens
New Akrotiri Estate at Seaside, Alimos Classic Low Profile Whisky Bar, Syntagma, Athens Alternative Gazarte, Gazi, Athens
New Ai Weiwei, Cycladic Art Museum Classic Byzantine & Christian Museum Alternative Onassis Cultural Centre
62 insider athens | July-August 2016
Feedέλ
Pasaji
Stoa Spyromiliou, Tel: 210 .322.0714, Bang in the heart of Athens’ luxe zone.
City Bistro
Kouzina Cine-Psirri
Agias Eirinis Sq, Tel: 210.324.3331 Mediterranean dishes in a setting where minimalism meets retro
Kolokotroni 9, Tel: 210.323.2795 A cozy jazz bar with specialty cocktails Lekka 14, Tel: 210.325.7644 A wall of booze for serious drinkers Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Sq, Tel: 210.333.0000, For cherished cigar and single malt evenings
Baba Au Rum
Clayton 6, Tel: 211.710.9140 Amazing cocktails and rum collection with a cozy environment
Barreldier
Voulis 7, Tel: 210.325.4711 An all-day café-cum-watering hole open into the wee hours
Barley Cargo
Kolokotroni 6, Tel: 210.323.0445 Enjoy a wide selection of international and Greek beers accompanied by live music
Boutique
Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot
Drunk Sinatra
Thiseos 16, Tel: 210.331.3733 A friendly place to drink to vintage music from the ‘50s and ‘60s
Explorer’s Lounge
NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere
Heteroclito
Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment
Baku
Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food
Low Profile
Voulis 7, Tel: 213.035.2144 Impressive selection of single malts
Mama Roux
Al Bacio
Aiolou 48, Tel: 213.004.8382 A comfortable atmosphere with a variety of international cuisine and an elaborate Sunday brunch
Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.0400 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza
Oinoscent
Matsuhisa
Voulis 45-47, Tel: 210.322.9374, Trendy winebar Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2682 Find out why it is rated amongst the best bars in Europe.
The Gin Joint
Christou Lada 1, Tel: 210.321.8646 Popular drinks, classic cocktails and the fanciest G&T in Athens!
The Trap
Othonos 10, Tel: 210.321.5561 Alluring gold trimmings, cosy mood and smooth tunes and dangerously delicious cocktails on tap
CAFES Kaya
Voulis 7, Tel: 213.028.4305 For a caffeine fix like no other.
Syngrou
EAT
Ledra Kai
Athens Ledra Hotel, Syngrou 115, Tel: 210.930.0000 Polynesian Tepanyiaki restaurant going strong after 30 years
Première
Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views
EAT
Thissio
The Clumsies
Indian Masala
Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment
Kirki
Apostoplou Pavlou 31, Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break
Ai Nikolas
Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210.923.2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior
Kuzina
Avenue
Astiggos 12, Tel: 210.323.5055 Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare
Café Zoe
Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays
Hytra
Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views
Indian Chef
Athanasiou Diakou 22, Tel: 210.923.3585
Indian Haveli
Syngrou Ave. 12, Tel: 210.924.4522
Kollias
Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210.940.8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere
Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment
The James Joyce
DRINK The Sowl
Iraklidon 10, Tel: 210.345.0003 Art, taste, fashion and music collide at this welcoming new “ethnic urban” space
Underdog
Iraklidon 8, Tel: 213.036.5393 Specialty coffees, impressive selection of foreign and Greek craft beers, and exceptional cocktail menu
Drakoulis Meat Open Project
Vas. Pavlou 103, Tel: 210.932.0211 A nightclub, gourmet emporium, and Athens’ most glamorous meat boutique all in one
Dulcis in Fundo
Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian
Family
Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood
Malabar
The Margi, Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160 Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience
Matsuhisa Athens
Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair Marina Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.967.0659
Koi
Mythos of the Sea
98 Vas. Pavlou, Tel: 213.032.0890 Affordable street-food style sushi
Naiades
Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint
Rey Pablo’s
Vasileos Pavlou 89, Tel: 210.899.2068 Fab smoothies, terrific brunch, and vibey music that draws a young fashionable crowd
Troufa Chocolate Bar
Vasileos Pavlou 80, Tel: 211.012.0004 Heaven on earth for chocoholics
DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Alia Brasserie
Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.8901794 All-day lounge bar and restaurant
Cava Faydon
Agiou Ioannou 28, Tel: 215.510.9975 Mid-range or special edition wine varieties with a giddy range of imported goodies
Cava Vegera
EAT Coconuts
Nelly’s Gastro Pub
Vasileos Pavlou 67, Tel: 210.895.5177, The place to stock up on your quinoa chips and acai berries
Ithaki
Vasileos Pavlou 74, Tel: 212.104.3411 Healthy living smoothies vie with wicked cocktails and chocolate pasta confections
Poseidonos 11, Tel: 210.964.6635 A new wine bar changing the game for the stagnant costal enclave
Voula
Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100, French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux
Vouliagmeni
EAT
Kalua
Plastira 3, Tel: 210.899.4965 An unpretentious hang-out with reasonably-priced drinks, themed sports nights, and knock-out burgers
Moorings
Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood
Psaraki
Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2215 Seafood served in an informal setting
Rafale
Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely
Schara
Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices
Testaccio Organic
NEW! Litous 2 & Apollonos, Tel: 210.896.4112 Oyster bar, succulent steaks and of course, pasta in inviting setting. Waffle House
Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth
DRINK En Plo
Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay
Island
27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location
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Bookstores
Compendium
Alikarnassou 8, Athens Tel: 210.383.2139, 210.322.1248
Eleftheroudakis
Panepistimiou 15, Athens Tel: 210.331.7609 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece
Ιanos
Sina 60, Kolonaki Tel: 211.012.0547
Le livre ouvert
Solonos 77, Kolonaki Tel: 210.362.9703
Lexikopoleio
Stasinou 13, Tel: 210.723.1201
Ouranio Toxo
Perikleous 41, Ag.Paraskevi Tel: 211.184.6771
Papasotiriou
Panepistimiou 37, Athens Tel: 210.325.3232, 210.332.3301
Polyglot
Akadimias 84, Tel: 210.330.0455
Public
Karageorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, S. Karagiorga 4 & Lazaraki, Glyfada The Mall and Golden Hall, Maroussi Tel: 210.818.1333
Deli
Arapian
Evripidou 41, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offering cured meats
Bahar
Evripidou 31, Monastiraki Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven
Kostarelos
Cava Anthidis
Patriarchou Ioakeim 45, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers
Cellier
Kriezotou 1d, Syntagma Tel: 210.361.0040, Kifissias Ave. 369, Tel: 210.801.8756, Syngrou Ave. 320, Tel: 210.453.3551 Stockists of premium wines and spirits
Kostarelos
Patr. Ioakeim 30-32, Tel: 210.725.9000 Great selection of cheese and Greek goodies
Kylix
Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards
Marks & Spencer Food
Ermou 33-35, Athens, Tel: 210.324.0675 Vouliagmenis Av. 85, Glyfada, Tel: 211.012.4968 Lazaraki 13, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.3147 Pentelis Av. 23, Vrilissia, Tel: 211.012.5381
Mesogaia
Nikis 52, Syntagma Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods
Miran
Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats
Provence
Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen
Sorpresa Italiana
Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more
Jewellery
Lea Books
Stefanidis Finest Foods
Dimitrios Sq 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen
Varsos
Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie
Wine Garage
Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175, Browser-friendly cava with helpful service
Apriati
Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young
Elena Votsi
Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone
Fanourakis
Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings
Folli Follie
Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux
Omega
Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces
Van Cleef & Arpels Athens Metro Mall
Dept Stores
Stadiou 24, Athens Tel: 210.321.7917, 231.022.1113
Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food
Attica
Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods
Golden Hall
Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and highstreet) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion
Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset
Bulgari
Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories
Cartier
Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison
McArthurGlen
Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre
The Mall Athens
Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food Attica
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Chopard
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
Orloff Spa Astir Beach
Chopard
Greece is for Lovers
Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.
Ilias Lalaounis
Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller
It's all, oh so souvenir to me!
Marathianakis
Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs
Kori
Pentheroudakis
Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery
Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design
Souvenirs
Acropolis Museum Shop
15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911
Benaki Museum Shop
Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, 210.367.1002 www.benakishop.gr
Forget me not
Adriannou 100, Plaka Tel: 210.325.3740 www.forgetmenotathens.gr
Paliosintheies
Vas.Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1000
Protogenous 8, Psyrri, Tel: 210.656.0574 Vintage home décor and furniture
I-Spa
InterContinental Athenaeum Athens Syngrou Avenue 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6000
Preloved
Olive Tree Spa
Ipitou 5, Syntagma Second-hand clothing collected from the cities of Paris and Berlin
Orloff Spa Astir Beach
Aghias Eirinis 3, Monastiraki Tel: 210.545.1553 Great collection of merchandise ranging from the ‘20s to the ‘90s.
Hatzigianni Mexi 4, Hilton Tel: 210 724.4425
Retrosexual Vintage Shop
Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.0028
Sofita
Iraklidon 35, Thissio Tel: 210.346.9904
Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3
Spas
Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso
Sarri 28, Psyrri, Tel: 210.331.1922 Vintage and contemporary style home décor and furniture
Hiltonia Spa
Ananea Spa
Life Gallery Hotel 103 Thisseos Ave., Ekali, Tel: 211.106.7400
Arion Resort & Spa,
Astir Palace Complex, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.890.2000 Open daily for treatments from 09:00 to 21:30 (last appointment at 20:00)
Vintage
Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces
Mofu
Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma Sq 210.333.0799
Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, Tel: 213.036.9266 More than 50 Greek designers' unique, new imaginative and unexpected ideas that re-define the souvenir www.ohsosouvenir.com
Kessaris
Zolotas
GB Spa at Hotel Grande Bretagne
Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller
Amerikaniki Agora
Yesterday's Bread
Athinas 30, Monastiraki 1st-2nd Floor Tel: 210 3217876
Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed
Bohbo
Ippokratous 39, Exarhia Tel: 210.338.9202
Gouadeloupi
Protogenous 12, Psyrri, Tel: 697.852.3933
Like Yesterday’s
Sports
It's all, oh so souvenir to me!
Protogenous 16, Monastiraki Tel: 216.700.4810 Vintage clothes mainly from the United States
Water Action Ltd
Vouliagmenis Avenue 12, Voula Tel: 210.895.8873 Mob: 694.476.1502 e-shop: www.water-action.gr e-mail: dspilioti@gmail.com
Paliosinitheies
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Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100
Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that markedthe boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of
Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens . Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552. National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens. Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens. Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis. Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857
Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185. Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens. Tel: 210.923.1502, spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502, history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027
Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995. Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621 childrensartmuseum.gr Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/
Museums
Galleries
A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Tel: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis Tel: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, Tel: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0288 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, Tel: 210.322.1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278/ Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454
Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma(Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.
Just for kids
Cultural venues
ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES Tel: 210.322.9705
Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. astorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000. B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Stavros Niarchos Foundation Vasilissis Sofias Ave. 86A The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757
Sites Theatres
ORGANISED TOURS
ARION RESORT & SPA
ATHENS HILTON
COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA
DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS
The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000
506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia Tel: 210.728.1000
Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCOMAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden. Pellis 6, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.8027
Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.928.0100
ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS
COCO-MAT HOTEL
Crowne plaza
GRANDE BRETAGNE
543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos. Tel: 210.920.6000
COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. 36 Patriarchou Ioakeim str. Tel: 210.723.0000
Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50, Athens. Tel: 210.727.8000
This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000
ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL
CIVITEL ATTIK
DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA
Holiday Inn Attica Avenue
66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine. Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos. Tel: 210.921.5353
A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace. Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi. Τel: 210.610.1000
Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100
New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. Stateof-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. Tel: 210.668.9000
ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL
CIVITEL OLYMPIC
DIVANI CARAVEL
Holiday Suites
Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka. Tel: 210.337.0000
Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv. Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi. Tel: 210.680.1900
Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani. Tel: 210.720.7000
Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4, Ilissia. Tel: 210.727.8000
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KEFALARI SUITES
METROPOLITAN
RADISSON BLU
THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL
Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3333
Overlooking the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf, the Metropolitan Hotel combines warm hospitality and urban luxury. Syngrou Ave 385, Paleo Faliro T. 210 947 1000, metrpolitan@chandris.gr
Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis. Alexandras Avenue 10, Athens Tel: 210.889.4500
In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3622
KING GEORGE
NEW
SEMIRAMIS
THE MARGI
Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views. Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.322.2210
Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma. Tel: 210.3273000
YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.4400
Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000
LIFE GALLERY
NJV athens plaza
SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT
THE WESTIN ATHENS
Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre. Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400
Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210 3352400
Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000
Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000
MELIÁ ATHENS
NOVOTEL
ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL
ATHENS WAS
Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments. Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis. Tel: 210.332.0100
Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/ Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden. 4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square. Tel: 210.820.0700
Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.741.6000
Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, AthensWas’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience. Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Tel:210.725.4871
68 insider athens | July-August 2016
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
TwentyOne
A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521
Herodion
A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.923.6832
A CATEGORY AVA HOTEL & SUITES
HOTEL ELECTRA
Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma. Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000
Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.337.8000
amarilia hotel
PERISCOPE HOTEL
An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool. Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni. Tel. 210 8990391
17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200
Fresh Hotel
Philippos
Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia. Tel: 210.524.8511
Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Good value for money. Mitseon 3, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.3611-4
COSTA NAVARINO
SANTORINI
The Westin Resort Costa Navarino
MYSTIQUE
Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic. Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000
Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860.71114
The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort
The Tsitouras Collection Hotel
289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches. Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000
Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape. Firostefani, Santorini Tel: 22860.23747
evia
VEDEMA
THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel
Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia. Tel. 22260.60100
PATMOS
Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori. Tel: 22860.81796
SYROS
Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa
VILLA SELENA
A 5-star luxury hotel situated only a few steps from Grikos beach. Considered possibly the best located hotel in Patmos. Patmos, Grikos Bay. Tel: 22470.32800
A luxurious five-star boutique hotel with suitably equipped rooms and suites to ensure a comfortable stay. The spacious terrace with a panoramic view is ideal for breakfast or drinks Tel. 22810 86007, www.villaselena.eu
insider athens | July-August 2016 69
OTE video conference service
7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399
Commercial Office spaces Regus
Tel: 210.727.9000
Global Business Services Tel: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi
COURIER SERVICES ACS
Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri Tel: 210.819.0000
DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens Tel: 210.821.9959
Geniki Taxydromiki
Kifissou 14, Renti, Tel: 210.485.1100
Speedex
Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia Tel: 801.110.0011
UPS
Driving School Highway
Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 P. Faliro, Tel: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777
Vlachos Bros
25th Martiou 20, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190
Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords
Mourouzi 7, Athens, Tel: 210.610.4494
Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada Tel: 210.965.0697
Attica Movers
Syngrou Ave. 19, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210 922 7221
Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Ave. 102, Nea Ionia Tel: 210 272 0106
Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea Tel: 210.800.3510
Orphee Beinoglou
27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, Elefsina Tel: 210.946.6100
Octopus Relocation Services
Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210.459.9530
4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi Tel: 210.998.4000
TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING
Driving Schools in English
Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, Tel: 210.876.4876
Trochokinisi Driving School
IBS - International Business Services
28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki Tel: 2310.729.092
Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani Tel: 210.724.5541
MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES?
Travel Agencies Travel Plan
Christou Lada 3, Athens Tel: 210.333.300, www.travelplan.gr
Amphitrion
Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni Tel: 210.900.6000, www.amphitrionholidays.gr
TravelPlanet24
Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma Tel: 211 107 9684, www.travelplanet24.com
Mid-east Travel
Vas Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi Tel: Tel: 211.211.8888, www.mideast.gr
French Institute
Embassies Cultural Institutes
Business services
AUDIOVISUAL
Tel: 210.721.3039
BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.8105
CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri Tel: 210.727.3400
CHILE
Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647
CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282
CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033
CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550
CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800
Hellenic American Union
DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens,
Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900
British Council
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.671.9701 Tel: 210.725.6440
EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612
Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210.369.2333
ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,
Instituto Cervantes
Tel: 210.725.5860
Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117
Goethe Institut
Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000
Onassis Cultural Centre
Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000
Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47 Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646
ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2
ARGENTINA
Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158
ARMENIA
Tel: 210.747.5660
FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000
FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.9585
GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24,
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.2186
GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111
HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.6800
INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345
IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436
IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276
IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405
ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1,
K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145
P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500
AUSTRALIA
JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.
ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260
Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000
Tel: 210.670.9900
AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4,
Tel: 210.674.4161
Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270
AZERBAIJAN
Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721
70 insider athens | July-August 2016
BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens
CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6,
ALGERIA
send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634
Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788
Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600
Tel: 210.687.6200
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BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA
BANGLADESH
JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico. KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765
KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens. Tel: 210.698.4080
Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko Tel: 210.672.0250
KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27,
BELGIUM
LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico,
Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314
P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 Tel: 210.675.5873
To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr
LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki
TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens,
Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535
LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens
UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel:
Private Hospitals
LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofi-
UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2,
Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building
MALTA
UK
MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki,
USA
MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.
URUGUAY
MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5,
VATICAN
Tel: 210.729.4356
Tel. 210.729.4483
tou Vamva 2, SyntagmaTel: 210.725.6400 V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 Tel: 210.729.4780
Tel: 210.699.0660
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.4210
Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590 Tel: 210.726.3000 210.680.0230
Tel: .210.677.0220
Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598
NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7,
VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19,
NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens
VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico,
Tel: 210.729.0122
PALESTINE Giassemion 13,
P. Psychico. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3
PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU
Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761
PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.1837
POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.679.7700
PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784
QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7,
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.8875
RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28,
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.5235
SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias
Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911
SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344
SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.677.1980
SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokra-
tias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091
SOUTH AFRICA
Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645
SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123
SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100
SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6
TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 &
Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065
Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Emergencies
Tel: 210.724.6173
PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos,
P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.9169
Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.
They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Ipirou 1, Athens.
Duty Pharmacies
Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.
Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434
Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777
Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000
ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158
Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri. Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr
CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS
Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr
EUROCLINIC
Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600
EURODENTICA
Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365
YGEIA
Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, www.ygeia.gr
IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER)
Areos 36, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100
METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL
Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr
IASO
Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi. Tel: 210.618.4000
MITERA
Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000
public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL
Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4
EVANGELISMOS
Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000
KAT HOSPITAL
Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit.
TZANNEIO
Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9
Paediatric Hospitals
PHYSICIANS
EUROCLINIC PAEDON
Ioannis Bitzos, MD
Health
Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900
PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon,
Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900
PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000
(ENGLISH SPEAKING) Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.0682
A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD
Eye Surgeon, Tsoha 17, Athens, Tel: 210.747.2777
Dimitris Linos, MD FACS
General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia, Tel: 210.612.5001-2
heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Tel: 210.897.6276, www.heartline.gr
Lia D. Papathanakou
Dermatologist – Venerologist Adult / Pediatric Dermatology Patriarchou Ioakim 44, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4502, 6974355942.
Newspapers & Magazines
English media
TUNISIA
Tel: 210.674.2120
Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece in English
The International New York Times
carries the English version of
Kathimerini
Radio Athens International Radio 104,4
Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610
GREEK LANGUAGE
Schools
LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico,
The Athens Center
48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece Tel: 210.701.5242
CELT Athens
77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210.330.1455
Greek House
Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186
Hellenic American Union
22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900
Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706
International SCHOOLS St Catherine's British Embassy School
Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750
St. Lawrence College
Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000
American Community Schools of Athens
Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210.639.3200
Byron College
Filolaou 7, Gerakas, Tel: 210.604.7722
insider athens | July-August 2016 71
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www.ika.gr
Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED)
www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000
Public Services
Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr
Road Assistance ELPA: 104
Public Power Corporation (DEI)
Weather Attica,
In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939 www.dei.gr
Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr
Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP)
Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman:
In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr
Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini, Tel: 210.607.1700
German School in Athens
Dimokritou 6 & Germanikis Scholis Athinon Maroussi, Tel: 210 6199260-5
Greek German School
25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210.682.0566
International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3888
Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix
Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211.300.9121
Scuola Statale Italiana
Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210.228.2720
St Catherine's British Embassy School
Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750
St. Lawrence College
Anemon St, Koropi, Tel: 210.891.7000
Universities University of Indianapolis
Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210.323.6647
DEREE
Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.9800
ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.4531
English kindergartens
International Kindergartens
Campion School
5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640
The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210.682.7629
Early Learning
Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210.961.8763
Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210.965.3985
Learning Steps
Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, Tel: 210.620.5818
Melina’s Kindergarten
Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2719
Peek-a-boo PreSchool
Vougliameni, Tel: 210.967.1970
Peter Pan
Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210.895.9654
Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210.965.6800
French kindergartens Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207
American University of Athens
Les Alouettes
Business College of Athens
Mary Poppins
Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210.725.9301 Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210.808.8008
72 insider athens | July-August 2016
Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210.677.3803
Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, Tel: 210.600.3196
Play and Learn
Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.1428
German kindergartens
LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS
Money
New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr
Paramythia
AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.324.4975
DINERS CLUB
Tel: 210.929.0200
MASTERCARD
Tel: 00.800.1188.703.03
VISA
O mikros Antonis
Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04
Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.2527
Italian kindergartens Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210.202.0274
Il Mulino magico
Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.3148
American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Athens Tel: 210.723.6313
Athens College Library
Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico Tel: 210.679.8100
Benakeios Library
Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens Tel: 210.367.1027
British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki Tel: 210.363.3211/5
Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am1:30pm.
Phone Post
Social Security & Health insurance (IKA)
Libraires
Telephone & Internet Services (OTE)
Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00,
then the country code. To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks. Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.
French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Athens Tel: 210.362.4301
German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens Tel: 210.362.0270
Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Athens Tel: 210.360.8111
Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Athens, Tel: 210.362.9886
Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Omonia
National Library
Tzavella 25, Syntagma, Tel: 210.382.0657
Nordic Library
7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni Tel: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211
advertise in our Advertise business here and on our website: listings, andyour reach www.insider-publications.com thousands of customers
LIMOUSINES
tram
AAA Royal Prestige
From the Port of Piraeus
Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American
Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services
Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr
Air Taxis (Helicopter and
Limousines Kacaya
TAXIS
Tel: 210.965.2300-22
Tel: 210.361.3373
plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149
British Airways Tel: 210.353.0453 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet Tel: 211.198.0013 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.324.1010 Iberia www.iberia.com/gr Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Singapore Tel: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210.969.6496 Turkish Tel: 210.988.5700
Airport
Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr
24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE
WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section public transport
Car rental
Ada Rent-a-Car
Tel: 210.988.3221
Astra Limousine Service
Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996
Tel: 210.322.5090 Tel: 210.323.4120
Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.
EXPRESS BUS from/to airport
X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center. X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals. X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station. Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €6 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min). For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro. gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr
Arena Tel: 210.894.6883,
HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION
Auto Union
Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr
Tel: 210.322.0087 210.614.7400
Tel: 210.602.0162
Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8
Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury
Rentals
Tel: 210.922.2442/43
Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171
ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Anthoupoli-Elliniko) 5.30ammidnight, Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Aghia Marina-Airport) 5.30am22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm. The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr
Taxis from the airport have a flat rate of €35 to Central Athens. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies. Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171
INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa,
Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100, Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org
Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia,
Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260. For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505
RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada
Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands: Gates G & E Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands: Gates B, G & D Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate Gtt
Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www. superfast.com
Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr
Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel: 801 11 75 000
Tel: 210.960.5600
There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.
YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium
Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100
Ghiolman Yachts
Seaports
Air Malta
Public transport
Tel: 210.998.0222
Ferries
Airlines
Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM
Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888
Ferries
Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000
Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.3696
Northstar
Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000
PGA
Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.985.9400
Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212
Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29,
Alimos. Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301
Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010
Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11,
Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8
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Meet our Insider Cover Stars! When we asked our talented bunch of Insiders at Art-Athina 2016 to design Insider’s July-August cover, little did we expect the response to be so effusive. From six-year old Insider fans to established artists, everyone had a go, channeling their inner Banksys and Picassos, sketching quintessentially Greek summer landscapes to abstract doodles. Michail Alexandros Passos’ stylized Motley Goat adorns our cover. 1. Agnes Zirinis, 2. Elpida Manimani, 3. Konstantinos Patsios, 4. Christiana Darmi, 5. Iason Iliades, 6. Poppy Grace Dardanis, 7. Stella Mourlogianni, 8. Kirios Criton, 9. Kerry Petropoulou.
74 insider athens | July-August 2016