Insider 110 - July / August 2013 by Insider Publications

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

July & August 2013 Year 11. Issue 110 â&#x201A;Ź4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

insider athens

| July & August 2013

ATHENS

Dive into the summer! Summer Culture Fest / Art on the islands / Open-air cinemas / Branding Greekness / Summer bounty / Sunny trends / Summer eats Plus: Interviews with: German Ambassador, Wolgang Dold, designer Vasilis Zoulias, conductor Vassilis Christopoulos PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS AND MORE

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F. Scott Fitzgerald whose book The Great Gatsby inspired the eponymous movie, said “And so with the sunshine and the great bursts of leaves growing on the trees… I had that familiar conviction that life was beginning over again with the summer.”

publisher’s note The glorious Greek summer: There is just something so utterly liberating and life-affirming about it. It is when you put on hold petty, niggling pre-occupations to engage in the more immediate business of just having a good time. From the open-air cinemas to enjoy re-runs under the stars to the racket of the ‘rackets’ on the beach, farmer’s markets bursting with succulent, juicy Greek pleasures from luscious tomatoes to ruby-red cherries and cooling watermelons, crickets vying with the next loud-mouth to be heard over the din, the overwhelming scent of jasmine permeating sultry evenings; the Greek summer is full of little, indescribable delights. And there is the string of concerts, plays and performances to take in all summer long at the various festivals. For those of you who haven’t been to the Herodes Atticus theatre to watch a play, please add it immediately to your bucket list of things to do this summer. It is a tinglingly magical experience to sit on the very same steps that seated a theatre-goer three millennia ago and the same arches that witnessed countless performances come alive in hues of scarlet red and mauve. So, dive right into the summer. It’s a smile, it’s a kiss, it’s a sip of wine ... it’s summertime! Kalo kalokairi!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher - Editor Sudha Nair - Iliades Art Director Eliza Mouzenidou Marketing and Public Relations Executive Maria Stergiou Photos Kostas Bekas, Marie-Irène Moschona Web Design www.studiozip.com

Contributors in this Issue Epikouros, Maria Stergiou, Marie-Diane Meissirel, Patricia Graire, Penny Apostolidou, Steven Olson Founder Steve Pantazopoulos

Distribution Hellenic Distribution Agency Subscriptions * Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 40, Abroad € 80 *B onjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 * Both magazines in Greece € 60, Abroad € 120 Also published in Chinese & Russian

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contents

10 14 26

Features

Departments

Culture Unplugged 10 Athens Insider rounds up a few highlights of the Athens Festival to look forward to this summer

A Recipe for Tourism A project that hopes to make gastronomy a key ingredient of the tourism menu

All that jazz 13 Jazz pianist and singer Diana Krall comes back to enthrall Athenians

Art on the islands Highlights of the summer arts calendar

Forging a common destiny 14 German Ambassador Wolgang Dold shares his optimism on the future of Europe

Cinema under the stars 40 Maria-Irene Moschona rounds up four of her favourite open-air cinemas

A regal presence 18 King George opens its doors again

Summer Cornucopia A celebration of the juicy pleasures of the long, hot Greek summer

Yia Mas! Steven Olsen concocts a few Greek-inspired cocktails

Greek Meat Lovers Epikouros reviews Kritikos in Kantza, for a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;perfect steakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

The man with his magic baton 20 Interview with Vassilis Christopoulos, the Artistic Director of the Athens State Orchestra King of Retro-charm 24 Vassilis Zoulias recaptures the old world elegance of Athens Branding Greekness Talented young designers tell a Greek story like few travel brochures do

Arts 6 Athens Festival 10 Diplomacy 14 Music 20 Time Lapse 23 Style 24 Greek design 26 Agora 30 Summer Art 36

Memorable sunsets at Il Tramonto 54 Exquisite Italian fare by the sea

Greek summer 40 Cocktails 48 Beauty & Fashion 50 Gastronomy 52 Wellness 56

34 40 46 50 52 Cover picture: shutterstock

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contributors Maria Stergiou

Maria studied Marketing and Communication at Athens University of Economics and Business and then moved to Barcelona where she studied and worked in the events industry. On her return to Greece she worked in the marketing departments of multinationals in the hospitality and advertising sector. She speaks English, Spanish and French and has a passion for flamenco dance.

Epikouros is the pen name of restaurant critic and food writer Albert Arouh who writes for the Greek edition of Harper’s Bazaar and BHMAGourmet. He has written for several Greek magazines and newspapers. Some of his books include «New Greek Cuisine» (Ikaros, 2012), Art Cuisine: Food as Art (Imako, 2006), Critique of Food Reason (Kedros, 2006), A Taste of Sephardic Salonica (Fytrakis, 2002), restaurant guides to Athens, Only the Best (Axon, 2001) and Athens Restaurant Guide 2011, and he has also edited a series of books under the title Gastronomy and Thought published by Polytropon.

Marie-Irène Moschona

After studying theatre at the University of Athens and at Sorbonne, Maria-Irene obtained a Masters in Management of Cultural Activities from the Panteion University of Athens. She was an assistant director at Kappa Theatre, Media Assistant at Badminton Theatre and at the Half Note Jazz Club and editor at the cultural site Spirto.net. A keen photographer, Maria-Irene lets her roving lens capture the essence of her native city.

Kostas Bekas was born and raised in Athens and has been capturing Athens’ rich social and diplomatic life for the past twenty years. A regular contributor to Athens Insider and Bonjour Athènes, Kostas has been the official photographer to several multinationals and embassies.

Marie-Diane Meissirel

Kostas Bekas

Half-French, half-American, Marie-Diane studied in Paris (Sciences Po, HEC) and in Hong-Kong (Chinese University). She has lived in France, India, Croatia and now Greece. Passionate about gourmet cuisine and opera, she published her first novel, set in Patmos, last summer.

Eliza Mouzenidou was born and raised in Athens. She studied Technology of Graphic Arts and graduated with the highest GPA amongst her colleagues. For the last five years she has been working as a graphic designer and has attended numerous seminars on the subject. Her true passion is photography and during her free time she enjoys playing tennis.

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Epikouros

Eliza Mouzenidou

Arts & events

7 9 1220 15 july

july

16 july

Terra Vibe Park

Sani Hill

Lycabettus Theatre

Plateia Nerou

Rockwave Festival The Rockwave Festival returns to its customary venue, Terra Vibe Park in Malakassa. The three-day live music extravaganza features the likes of Lana del Rey, Echo & The Bunnymen, Dead can Dance, The Iced Earth and At The gates, among others. Tickets: 28 – 65€ 37km Athens-Lamia highway www.tickethouse.gr, www. rockwavefestival.gr

Sani Festival 01 With twenty creative years behind it, the Sani Festival is now entering a new age, full of renewed energy and initiatives! The Jazz on the Hill programme features prominent female vocalists: the sensational China Moses, (12/07), Cassandra Wilson (13/7) and Madeleine Peyroux (14/7), and the world-music composer Myriam Alter (20/7). Savina Yiannatou will feature in the Greek Music programme with works specially chosen for the Festival. Cinema returns with a tribute to the best short films receiving international awards in collaboration with the Thessaloniki International Short Film Festival (15-16/8). Sani Resort www.sanifestival.gr

Madeleine Peyroux 02 After Sani, Madeleine Peyroux, a frequent visitor to Greece, performs jazz standards and bluesy numbers from her latest album, Blue Room with songs penned by her but also compositions by Ray Charles, Leonard Cohen and Randy Newman at the Lycabettus Theatre. Tickets: 25 – 35€ www.viva.gr

Ejekt Festival Ejekt 2013 comes back with an extremely interesting line-up: Pet Shop Boys, the leading electric pop duo of the planet, will be presenting to Ejekt’s audience the impressive visual show of Electric Tour 2013. The British producer and remixer, James Blake has been hailed as one of the most significant figures in the ‘10s music will be also performing at the Festival. Tickets: 30 - 40€ Olympic Pole, Faliro www.ejekt.gr

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On the town For location details see listings on page 71

1825 21 until

july

j uly

until

j uly

until

july

Kalamata Castle Amphitheatre

Benaki Museum

Herakleidon Museum

19th Kalamata International Dance Festival 03 Τhe International Dance Festival ia back again for the 19th consecutive year at Kalamata. The Festival experiments and presents important performers and choreographers: some renowned, others upcoming. Among them: Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker, Wim Vandekeybus and Rachid Ouramdane. It also highlights the contemporary domestic scene where young and upcoming Greek dancers and choreographers will have the opportunity to present their work. www.kalamatadancefestival.gr

The Museum “Out of the Box” 04 The 35th Anniversary of the Benaki Shop: From antiquity to modern design. Jewellery, embroidery, pottery, sculptures, textiles, bronzes, paintings and objects made of paper, plastic, thread, pearls, and gems will be exhibited. Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias www.benaki.gr

Constantine Manos - A Greek portfolio 50 years later 05 Rendering homage to Constantine Manos, prominent artist of the Greek Diaspora, the Benaki Museum presents an exhibition tribute to his renowned photographic series A Greek Portfolio. With his exquisite images Manos invites us to travel with him to remote villages and islands of Greece in the 1960s, where, in a landscape of simple farm life and tranquillity, poor yet proud people struggle to survive with dignity, dedicated to a way of life that hadn’t changed for centuries. His photographs crystallise fleeting everyday moments in a spare and austere style. Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias www.benaki.gr

Art & Mathematics – Guided tours in English A voyage from Ancient Greece to the Modern World. A pleasant two-hour tour/introduction to the world of art, mathematics, philosophy and the way these interrelate. Learn what exactly was classical Greece’s contribution to mathematics, art and philosophy and how all this formed the basis for the Renaissance and the development of the modern world. Presented 7 days a week upon appointment: 210.346.1981 Herakleidon 16, Thissio www.herakleidon-art.gr

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Arts & events

On the town For location details see listings on page 71

31 july

until

september

until

september

until

september

Olympic Stadium

University of Athens Museum

Cycladic Museum

Theocharakis Foundation

Roger Waters 06 Roger Waters, founder and principal songwriter of Pink Floyd, returns to Europe in 2013 with the timeless masterpiece - The Wall. The Wall has been one of the most successful tours in the history of rock music with 192 performances and 3.3 million viewers around the world. The audiovisual masterpiece, describing the alienation and mutation of the individual, will be reproduced in its entirety with an impressive production. Spirou Louis, Maroussi www.ticketpro.gr, www.oaka.com.gr

Socrates Now Second Year of performances in English! It has travelled across 15 countries with over 300 performances, engaging close to 100.000 people of all ages and backgrounds. Last summer 2000 visitors from 38 countries participated in the performance and open discussion, discovering a pertinent, fascinating Socrates, right next to the original site of his trial. Plato’s timeless classic The Apology of Socrates comes to life beneath the Acropolis for a second year, starring Emmy Award winner Yannis Simonides. Tholou 5, Plaka www.ellinikotheatro.org

Deste Prize 07, 08 Established in 1999 and awarded biennially to a Greek or Cypriot artist living in Greece or abroad, the prize aims to showcase an emerging generation of artists. The six shortlisted artists will present their work within the scope of the latter’s Young Views programme, which aims to engage a younger audience, bring the public up to date with developments in contemporary cultural production and open up a dynamic space for the exchange of ideas. Neophytou Douka 4 www.cycladic.gr

Valuable Acquisitions from the Evangelos Averoff Art Gallery Treasures from the excellent collection of Evangelos Averrof – Tositsa reveal a new aspect of Greek painting from the 19th century until today. The renowned member of Parliament and writer Evangelos Averrof was known for his passion towards art. Ancient artifacts, icons, church items, jewellery, guns and books, expressed his love for Greek culture. Representative works of art by Lytras, Gyzis, Volanakis, Economou, Moralis, Tsarouchis and Fassianos, amongst others reveal the richness of Greek art. Tickets: 4-6€ Vassilisis Sofias 9 & Merlin 1 www.thf.gr

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The Bridge premieres on FOX Summer is almost here and the temperature on FOX’s summer lineup is keeping tensions at an all time high! The Bridge starring Diane Kruger and Demian Bichir premieres on FOX Greece immediately after its US premiere. n international adaptation of the Danish/Swedish hit crime drama series ‘Bron’, ‘The Bridge’ is set on the border between El Paso, Texas, and Juarez, Mexico. The story kicks off when a body is discovered in two parts along the border between the US and Mexico. The bottom half of the body belongs to a Mexican prostitute, while the upper part to a US anti-immigration reform judge. The moral of the murder is “All men are created equal” - the first line in the US’s founding document, the Declaration of Independence. The Mexican prostitute had been missing without a trace for over a year while the US politician was immediately recognized by law enforcement.

The storyline follows Mexican Detective Marco Ruiz (Demian Bichir) and his American counterpart, Detective Sonya Cross (Diane Kruger) as they are forced to tackle the case together. The two detectives must work in unison to hunt down a serial killer operating on both sides of the U.S.-Mexico border. The Germany-born Diane Kruger plays a socially-awkward detective diagnosed with Asperger’s syndrome. Flitting between English and Spanish, Diane Kruger and Demi n Bichir are positively electric together in this new series. It’s great TV, and should appeal to all. FOX channel is available through NOVA and OTE TV. PREMIERE: Sunday, July 14, at 23.20

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Culture Unplugged George Loukos, the charismatic President and Artistic Director of the 56 yearold Athens Festival manages to put on high quality artistic performances on a shoestring budget as he believes, ‘in a period of uncertainty and decadence, culture is the way forward.’ Athens Insider rounds up a few highlights to look forward to this summer.

MUSIC Diana Krall in concert Canadian jazz-pop singer and pianist Diana Krall is coming to town in support of her new album, “Glad Rag Doll.” Hailed as “a major departure and a natural progression for the gifted musician,” the 13-track collection, produced by the legendary T-Bone Burnett and engineered by Mike Piersante, covers mostly jazz songs dating back to the 1920s and 30s. Krall has sold more than 6 million albums in the United States and won two Grammy awards. 1 July, 21:00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Tickets 35-90€

Haris Alexiou & Nouveau Sextet Popularly acclaimed Greek vocalist Haris Alexiou teams up with an ensemble of talented Greek musicians performing on a total of 20 instruments for a concert of songs that crosses borders and generations. 3 July, 21:00, Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Tickets 20-40€

Le Cercle de l’Harmonie - Jérémie Rhorer, Works by Mozart Jérémie Rhorer is rightly considered to be his generation’s finest interpreter of Mozart, since his performances clearly reveal the depth and transparency of the great classical composer’s work. After 2011’s astounding Idomeneo, Le Cercle de l’Harmonie returns with a sublime programme consisting of the Overture to Don Giovanni, the “Jupiter” Symphony and the Fifth violin concerto. The solo part is played by Julien Chauvin, co-founder with Rhorer of this ensemble which is so ideally suited to the 18th-century repertoire. 23 July, 21:00, Megaron Mousikis, Τickets 10-30€

DANCE Dimitris Papaioannou, Primal Matter Dimitris Papaioannou’s “Primal Matter” is a critically acclaimed study on the human body, its mannerisms and its reactions, featuring the 49-year-old Greek choreographer/dancer and Michalis Theofanous. 1-23 June & 27 June 27 – 14 July, 21:00, Peiraios 260, Tickets 25€

Compañía Antonio Ruz, Ojo Antonio Ruz, a Spanish dancer and choreographer who has worked alongside some of the biggest names in dance, here daringly and successfully enriches his movement vocabulary with elements from the flamenco tradition. Ojo, the first of his works to be presented to Greek audiences, pulls us into an enigmatic, misty world. Six dancers move in and out of our field of vision, disappearing and reappearing on stage to perform flowing ensemble pieces or explosive solos. The use of flamenco here is not a token gesture: the rhythmic clapping of hands and stamping of feet, the brisque steps and the songs are all embedded in a contemporary context to reveal facets of its multicultural identity. 14-15 July, 21:00, Peiraios 260, Tickets 10-20€

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THEATRE

Athens Festival

Ensemble Artistique - Emmanuel Demarcy-Mota Francophones will have a treat with the Ensemble Artistique of the Theatre de la Ville, led by Emmanuel Demarcy-Mota, presenting Eugene Ionesco’s 1959 play “Rhinoceros.” Demarcy-Mota takes Ionesco’s themes of conformity, mass movements and culture and applies them to the present day. The performance is in French with Greek supertitles. 30 June - 1 July, 21:00, Onassis Cultural Centre, Tickets 15-25€ Schaubühne – Thomas Ostermeier, Henrik Ibsen, The enemy of the people A favourite in Greece, Germany’s Schaubühne company and director Thomas Ostermeier will stage their ultramodern and pioneering version of Henrik Ibsen’s “Enemy of the People.” A darkly satirical tale of greed and corruption, “An Enemy of the People” is Ibsen’s most overtly political play, about a community that turns on a man speaking uncomfortable truths, with Ostermeier dragging it into the 21st century and addressing contemporary issues such as immigration and environmental disasters. In German with Greek supertitles. 3-5 July, 21:00, Peiraios 260, Tickets 25€ Olivier Py, Miss Knife The French actor and director explores gender issues and plays with his sexuality in “Miss Knife,” named after his singing drama-queen alter ego, who made her debut in 1996. In French with Greek supertitles. 9-10 July, 21:00, Peiraios 260, Tickets 20€ State Theatre of Northern Greece - Sotiris Chatzakis, Aristophanes, Peace The clouds of war are gathered over Greece. Peace is nowhere to be found. The Athenian vine-grower Trygaeus sets off in search of the much-missed goddess of peace. A huge beetle flies him up to Zeus’s neck of the woods, where War is preparing for total annihilation. Trygaeus tricks him, joins forces with Hermes and, with the help of the Chorus, sets Peace free. Vasilis Charalambopoulos and Fanis Mouratidis star in the ever-relevant Peace (421 BC), in which Aristophanes condemns war. 26-27 July, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus Robert Wilson, Mikhail Baryshnikov, Willem Dafoe “The Old Woman” Robert Wilson directs renowned dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov and award-winning actor Willem Dafoe in “The Old Woman,” an adaptation of the work of the same name by Russian author Daniil Kharms, described by critics as “an obscure, brilliant and slyly political novella written in the 1930s.” It tells the story of a writer trying to pen a tale about a miracle worker. In English with Greek supertitles. 18 -21 July, Onassis Cultural Center National Theatre of Greece - Thomas Moschopoulos Sophocles, The Trachiniae (Women of Trachis) A devastating tragedy set in motion by Deianeira’s all-consuming passion for Heracles. A world in which Eros-inflamed heroes commit wild and uncontrollable acts; a world in which the gods are vengeful and knowledge does not lead to the light. Deianeira, madly in love and desperate, will try to win back Heracles’ love with a magic potion made from the blood of Nessus the centaur, but her efforts to ward off the inevitable will lead to the death of her beloved. 9-10 August, 21:00, Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

VENUES Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus Palea Epidavros, Peloponnese Tel: 27530.22026 Benaki Museum Peiraios 138 Tel: 210.34 3.111, 210.367.1000 www.benaki.gr

Odeon of Herodes Atticus Dionysiou Areopagitou Τel: 210.324.1807

Little Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus Palea Epidavros, Peloponnese Megaron, The Athens Concert Hall Vas. Sofias & Kokkali Tel: 210 728.2333 www.megaron.gr Museum of Cycladic Art Main Building Neophytou Douka 4 The Stathatos Mansion Vas. Sofias & Irodotou 1 Tel: 210.722.8321-3 www.cycladic.gr

Nea Skini Kykladon 11 & Kefallinias, Kerameikos Tel: 210.821.7877 www.neaskini.gr

Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107 - 109 Τel: 210.900.5800, 213.017.8000 www.sgt.gr Peiraios 260 Peiraios 260 Tel: 210.928.2900 Technopolis Peiraios 100 Τel: 210.346.1589, 210.3467.322 info@athens-technopolis.gr

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Athens Festival TICKETS • Online: www.greekfestival.gr • By telephone: 210.327.2000 • In person: at Festival Box Offices (Panepistimiou 39, inside the Pesmazoglou Arcade) or from the Papasotiriou Bookstores and the Public Stores

Want to grab a bite or a drink after the show? Technopolis, Peiraios 260 and the new Benaki Museum In a district dotted with bars and restaurants, the choice is practically unlimited. For a light meal or a quick drink before the show, Gazi College (210 342 2112). Prosopa (210 341 3433), a favourite with local artists offers international cuisine and is a terrific venue for post-spectacle reviews. For a more substantial meal, The Butcher Shop (210 341 3440) with its large selection of meat platters (and a décor that lives up to its name) doesn’t disappoint. For an island feel, head to Mamacas (210 346 4984) or to Dirty Ginger (210 342 3809) for an inspiring mix of heady music and cocktails. Plastiko (210 341 3729) is also a new cool hang-out before or after the show. But for a last drink before heading home, stop at Gazaki (210 346 09091) or Socialista (210 347 4733) on Triptolemou street and get carried away by the night…. Megaro Mousikis and the Cycladic Museum Plateia Mavili is not what one would call a summer destination but one that has managed to service Athenians all year round with its trendy eateries and watering holes. For a last drink, regroup at Briki (210 654 2380) or Flower (210 643 2111). Or if you’d like to dance the night away, head to Tsoha street (that connects the central Vassilissis Sofias avenue to Alexandras avenue) - home to some of the best known night clubs including Balthazar (210 644 1215) and Baraonda (210 644 4308). For a spectacular view of the city on a summer night, Frame at the foothills of Lycabettus (210 721 4368) is a good option. For sumptuous seafood, try Papadakis (210 360 8621) on Fokilidou or 7 Thalasses on Omirou (210 632 4825). For exquisite city views, cocktails and barbecues with a Mediterranean touch, the Galaxy at the Hilton (210 728 1407) is quite simply the place to be. Odeon of Herodes Atticus Move away from the tourist traps around the Acropolis and try out Aglio Olio & Peperoncino (210 921 1801) for authentic Italian pasta and homemade dolci or Mani Mani for Peloponnesian specialties (210 921 8180). To indulge your sweet tooth, try home-made icecreams and waffles from Gelato-Café (210 923 8124). To live it up after the show in Plaka, chef Baxevannis’ 2 Mazi (210 322 2839) is a must-stop for lovers of Greek gourmet cuisine. If you’d like to join the long list of celebrities who’ve dined at Daphne’s restaurant (210 322 7971), reserve ahead. For a meal with a view, the Royal Olympic’s Roof Garden restaurant (210 928 8400) or Electra (210 337 0000) are good roof-top dining options. Onassis Cultural Center For creative gourmet cuisine and splendid views try Hytra, at the 6th floor of the Onassis Cultural Center (210 3316 767 or 217 7071118) and Première at the Athenaum InterContinental (210 9206981), for seafood, AiNikolas (210 923 2918) just across the street offers good value-for-money while classic Kollias (210 940 8620) further down Syngrou is another highly recommended option. For bistro fare, try Avenue (210 947 1001) at the Metropolitan Hotel.

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Music

All that jazz Jazz pianist and singer Diana Krall enthralled Athenians on July 1 with her rendition of jazz standards and witty banter. Celebrating 70 years of Greece-Canada diplomatic ties on Canada Day, Diana Krall performed at the magical Herodes Atticus theatre.

aving won two Grammys and sold more than 15 million albums worldwide, Diana Krall paid tribute to her native Canada and to her idol, Nat King Cole. It was with her 1995 album, All for You: A Dedication to the Nat King Cole Trio that she had her major breakthrough. Her new album of vintage material largely from the 1920s and ‘30s, Glad Rag Doll, produced by T Bone Burnett and featuring Marc Ribot on guitar (and a cameo from Howard Coward, a.k.a. Elvis Costello, whom she married in 2003), features songs that Krall has spent a lifetime contemplating. A departure from her previous albums, Krall describes it as “a fearless and creative experience.” The last time Krall performed here six years ago, she was expecting her first child. The experience of performing at the Herod Atticus was so inspirational that Krall even considered naming her two boys Dionysus and Agammenon! Krall describes the Herodes Atticus, where she has performed before as “a magical setting” and made references to her penchant for all things Greek by joking that her “yukelele-playing got better in a bath-tub filled with ouzo and Metaxa.” Her presence here as part of the Athens Festival has given a much needed boost to the city’s image and as Ambassador Robert Peck of Canada puts it, “sent a positive message to the rest of the world.” The packed theatre, with 4000 Athenians attending, was a “sell-out success” according to Georgia Iliopoulou, Managing Director of Lavris Entertainment. Also present was the doyenne of Greek music, Nana Mouskouri, whom Diana Krall paid a glowing tribute to during her performance.

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Forging a common destiny

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Diplomacy Ambassador Wolgang Dold of Germany’s posting to Greece a year ago coincided with the euro crisis spreading to other European nations, putting into question both the future of the Eurozone and Germany’s role in it. In a candid interview with Athens Insider, Ambassador Dold shares his optimism on the future of Europe and highlights the increasingly important role played by diplomats in building bridges in a post-crisis world Greece was always considered a ‘Club Med’ posting by diplomats. But with the economic suspense and the ongoing drama of debts, cuts, hikes, strikes, billion-euro bailouts and rumours of defaults, it is anything but. Relations between Greece and Germany were tested to the limit, jeopardizing the European ideal, burdening the common currency and dividing governments. How do you envisage your role as the German Ambassador to Greece in such misunderstood times? I don’t know whether Greece actually ever was a “Club Med” posting for German Ambassadors! But it is true that we are in “challenging times”. One thing is sure: if anybody thought that bilateral embassies in the European Union were a remnant of the past, they surely need to reconsider this. There is a huge need for bridge-builders these days. A decade after the euro was adopted with great enthusiasm and fanfare, do you think that the euro has lost some of its allure? The Euro as a symbol of European integration is facilitating the evolution of the European Union, politically and economically. The Euro did not cause the global financial crisis. What the European partners are dealing with right now is to remove the initial construction flaws in the architecture of the Euro: a single currency without a common economic and fiscal policy. There has been a prevailing sentiment that Germany is the ‘Big Brother’ of Europe – steering decisions to suit its own agenda. Do you think that the financial dependence of weaker European countries on Germany’s support, lends itself to Germany playing a more decisive role in European affairs? The “German Agenda” is to create an economically strong and healthy European Union. No one is to be left behind. That explains the huge effort the partners are investing in assisting the countries in trouble with credits of a hitherto unknown mag-

nitude. Germany alone has provided guarantees worth 300 Billion Euros in total for the rescue programmes in place. Given the risk this entails for the taxpayers, Germany does take great interest in what happens to the credits provided. You have mentioned in previous interviews to the Greek press that there has been a lot of talk of austerity with little mention of structural reform. Do you think the ‘austerity measures’ put in place by the troika failed to communicate the ‘fundamental reasons for reform’ to the Greeks? The recovery programme is about bringing income and expenditure of the State back to a certain degree of balance. Cutting expenditure is one side of the coin, creating more income the other. Income is generated by the private sector, from the large steel producer to the small shop owner. Both deserve a business environment that helps them develop. That is what structural reforms are about. I still find that this aspect is not in the centre of the national debate in Greece. With the contagion spreading to other nations and some officials admitting to mistakes, was it over-ambitious to expect changes overnight? Do you think that despite the present hardship, a few positive milestones have been achieved? No one expected changes over night. Just changes! A lot of time was lost. But now, after a year of work on a determined reform agenda, we see first results. Let me just mention the fact that the number of new jobs in the private sector jumped to the highest level since 2008 in the first months of 2013. Exports are on the rise. The Economic Sentiment index is on its highest level since 2008. Things are moving. The past couple of years have been witness to a rather intense tit-for-tat between the Greek and German media – playing up stereotypes of each other. As the German Ambassador to Greece,

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Diplomacy how difficult has it been to explain to either side to look beyond clichéd perceptions? The tit-for-tat has given way to a more balanced reporting on both sides. That is good news. But I am still amazed just how Populism has become an accepted language in Europe and that resorting to crude stereotypes has become a fashionable way to deal with one’s own unease, dissatisfaction or frustration. Germany has been a leading investor in the Greek economy for decades. With a new privatization drive scheduled in Greece, do you foresee a significant interest from German investors and if so, in which sectors? There is interest in a number of areas including infrastructure or tourism, but my sense is that many investors, not only Germans, are still in a “wait and see mood” regarding substantial new engagement. They want to see how the business climate is developing. On the other side: from the German business community here in Greece I get the clear indication that there is a lot of potential. That explains why most German companies have opted to stay in the country despite the crisis and wait for their chances. Germany has always had millions of its citizens holiday in Greece each year. While the figures have fluctuated in recent years, do you think that post-crisis, Greece has become more competitive and offers more options in alternative tourism for German tourists? I see substantial growth potential here. The Government and the Associations are working hard on this. We are not talking about developing “all-inclusive” type of mass-tourism. Growth will stem from quality tourism, after-season tourism, cultural tourism.

16 insider athens | July & August 2013

From Schleimann and Ziller a century ago, Greece has been a source of inspiration for German scholars. Has there been an increase in academic and cultural exchanges between the two nations in recent years? The interest in learning the German language or studying in Germany is continuously on the rise. Just as a small indicator: the number of scholarships granted to Greek students has risen from 140 in 2011 to 206 in 2012. Another upcoming area of cooperation is in the field of research and development, with a clear business orientation. Seeing a mixed German and Greek Choir singing the 9th Symphony of Beethoven, conducted by Vassilis Christopoulos, the inspiring Director of the Athens State Orchestra, was one of the most elevating moments since I arrived in Greece. The German community in Greece is sizable. How important is the contribution to enriching multi-culturalism in Greece? We estimate that there are roughly 45.000 German citizens in Greece, many of whom are married with Greek spouses, true bridges between the two countries. The German School in Athens was established in 1896, the German School in Thessaloniki in 1888. And I am not even mentioning the wonderful bilingual and bicultural private schools, like the Ellinogermaniki Agogi in Athens, just to mention one. They certainly have contributed to the scientific and cultural scene of the country. How would you describe a typical day at the office? Does your schedule leave you any time at all to explore Athens? I try not to sit too much in the office. I am proud to have a dedicated and hard-working team at the Embassy behind me. They give me the necessary leeway to reach out. Athens is a wonderful city with so many hidden jewels – if I only had the time to explore them all!

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Penthouse Suite – Outdoor Pool

King George, Athens

A regal presence A distinctive boutique hotel that was host to statesmen, Hollywood celebrities and men of letters since the 30’s, the King George re-opens in style. Witness to the city’s chequered history, the King George continues to be a meeting point for opinion-makers.

18 insider athens | July & August 2013

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge

deally located on Syntagma Square where the heart of Athens beats, the King George, a Luxury Collection Hotel has matched the vivacity and joie-de-vivre of this city and combined its understated elegance and old-world glamour with a contemporary look and feel. It reopened with a renovated foyer on June 5. Originally built as a small ‘urban palais’ that served as an annex to the Palace(which then occupied the building that houses Greece’s Parliament on the square’s eastern flank), it served briefly as the Prime Minister’s residence before being acquired by a Greek businessman who added several floors and converted it into a hotel. One of its first guests was King George II, who made it his haunt and the hotel adopted the name of its most famous guest. Capturing the absolute essence of a fascinating boutique hotel, the King George has hosted a pantheon of celebrities and well-known personalities, over the years. A state-of-the-art hotel, the King George has always been distinctively recognized for its iconic rooms with the finest natural hard wood floors. The King George combines the grace and stature of a historic landmark with ultra-modern amenities. With 63 rooms, 39 suites and incomparable views of the luminous city and

Deluxe Room

the Parthenon, this historic residence, encapsulates the unique experience of a Penthouse Suite with private outdoor pool overlooking the famed Acropolis. Perched atop a vantage point, the 350sq.meter room on the 9th floor offers sparkling views of a city on-the-go. Contrasting with the bustling energy of the city below, the private pool on the terrace is an oasis of tranquility. Its unmatched atmosphere lends itself as much to intimate gatherings as to personalized exclusive events under an illuminated sky. For a memorable dining experience, the Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge, located on the 7th floor, features neo-classical décor, unrivaled views of the Acropolis, Modern Greek cuisine as well as signature cocktails to take in a glorious sunset. With exceptional attention to detail and thorough expertise on the best addresses of Athens, this contemporary classic property promises to meet the discerning global traveler’s expectations while conveying the highest level of quality personalized services. A stay at the King George is bound to fill more than a suitcase of unique memories. King George, Athens, Syntagma Square Tel: 210.322.2210, kinggeorgeathens.com

Photos: Patrick Pfeiffer

The man with his

magic baton Conductors have always had an aura of mystique surrounding them. Viewed only from the back by the public, arms flailing, drawing every nuance of a written score to life, they remain men of mystery. When you add youth to the mix, they become even more enigmatic entities. Meet Vassilis Christopoulos, the softspoken, young and immensely talented Artistic Director of the Athens State Orchestra. Here, in conversation with Marie-Diane Meissirel.

20 insider athens | July & August 2013

Music

fter having spent several years conducting in Germany, how did you react to being appointed as the Artistic Director of the Athens State Orchestra in 2011? Was it a homecoming of sorts? It is always a pleasure to come back home. But an even greater honour to have been appointed head of the most prestigious orchestra in Greece. I have always had a special connection to the Athens State Orchestra as my father spent his career there as a solo oboist. As a child, I attended rehearsals of the Orchestra when legendary international conductors led it. My first concert with the Orchestra at 24 was one of my first professional commitments. In my present role, I feel privileged to contribute to its artistic and economic development. You lead an interesting double life heading the Southwest German Philharmonic Orchestra in Constance along with your responsibilities here in Athens. How do you manage your dual roles? Do you tend to compare the orchestras you lead? I travel a great deal between Greece and Germany but my responsibilities are not the same. In Germany, I can concentrate solely on artistic matters, while my duties in Greece require much more time and energy because here, in addition to my musical responsibilities, I also play an administrative role. With dwindling public subsidies, a lot of my time in Greece is spent seeking private funds to maintain a rich and varied programme. I interact with - and have found great support from - the embassies of Germany, Spain and Poland, the French Institute of Athens and the Niarchos Foundation. Leading orchestras in two different cultures is always challenging and the constant “commuting” between two countries is tiring but I find the distance and the perspective I gain from it helpful. Conductors today seem to indulge in a fair amount of showmanship: breaking into Michael-Jackson-like moon walks, flamboyant flourishes of the wand…some even ostentatiously putting on special gloves and waving jewel-encrusted batons. How would you describe your conducting style? It is very difficult to characterize oneself - it’s been a long time since I’ve watched myself so I don’t think about my ‘style’ of conducting. Having said that, I try to be a conductor for the orchestra, not for the public. There is a very subtle and deep connection between a conductor’s symphony of movements and the music emanating from the players. My goal as a conductor is to bring a piece of music to life, through my interpretation, my personality and musical formation. I try to influence what the musicians do but I’m not into choreography. Some conductors do feel the need to be dramatic but I’m perhaps more reserved than some of my colleagues. One of the best compliments I received was from a soloist I greatly admire who described my style as ‘zero show-off’.

Of all the fetishes associated with conductors, the baton takes on exaggerated proportions. Leonard Bernstein once said, “The baton is a living thing, charged with a kind of electricity, which makes it an instrument of meaning in its tiniest movement.” What does it mean to you? It is a kind of a magic wand. It represents the power and authority the

conductor has over the ensemble. Sometimes it is really helpful as it adds to the precision and the visibility of the conductor’s gestures especially in the opera pit where not just the musicians but the singers need to see your movements. There are some conductors who prefer not using the baton at all, opting to use their bodies to convey the intensity of the music. The legendary Dimitris Mitropoulos, who led the NY Philharmonic Orchestra always conducted without a baton. But when he had his second heart attack, his doctor suggested he use one. Conducting without a baton requires more involvement and intensity but it might mean a loss of precision and lightness. I tend to adapt myself to the repertoire. I simply CANNOT conduct Beethoven’s fifth symphony with a baton. I need to dive into it, lower my centre of gravity and give the piece more strength. For an opera, I always use the baton. And when one is not conducting by heart (which is sometimes the case), the music stand usually comes in the way… and is the story of many a broken baton on stage! Do you have a specific baton you use? I personally use a wooden baton with a pear-shaped cork at the end and it is 36 cms long. I have a dozen of them created by an old musician in Bielefeld in Germany. But I don’t think we should over-emphasise the subject here! How relevant is the role of a conductor? It is true that musicians are getting better and better technically. But there has been a ‘globalization’ of the orchestral sound, which is pitiful. You need a conductor to put his personal stamp on it. Also, an orchestra cannot play telepathically together. Especially in the modern repertoire you need someone who is not actively involved in playing an instrument so that he can sort out complex pieces. But the conductor’s most important job is not just to co-ordinate… it is to have an informed, personal and passionate interpretation of the piece that he transmits to the group and convinces them to create something special. Which brings us to our next question: What leadership qualities does a conductor need to have? A conductor needs important psychological skills to create cohesion amongst very different personalities. Isaac Stern describes a conductor as a person who “has complete command over the orchestra and can convince them that he knows more than all of them put together.” It is an exaggeration but, ultimately, a great conductor is a great leader. Your favourite conductors? I do not have an absolute idol but I have admired many conductors, some living and some dead, some whom I watched perform, others whom I’ve performed with. Sir Colin Davis, who passed away recently, was a kind soul and someone I admired deeply; Dimitris Mitropoulos, whom I never met as he passed away in the ‘60s, but whose passionate and devoted personality has been an inspiration; Miltiades Caridis, who was a difficult but wonderful man, with immaculate technique and a very thorough approach - I learnt a lot from him; and of course, Kleiber and Abbado, to name a few.

insider athens | July & August 2013 21

Music Have you performed with your father? What was the chemistry when you conducted him? I’ve conducted him twice as a guest conductor when he was playing in the Athens State Orchestra and twice, when he performed as a soloist. It was truly special.

We also performed the works of a few French composers such as Dutilleux and Berlioz in partnership with the French Institute. The Athens Festival has always been a terrific opportunity for the Athens State Orchestra to showcase its talent. Any summer concerts scheduled this year? There are two orchestra concerts scheduled for the festival. The first will be held on July 5 at the magical Herodes Atticus theatre led by the brilliant French conductor Pascal Rophé who will interpret Dances of Gal nta by Kod ly, Bartok’s Concerto for two pianos and percussion and Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition in Ravel’s wonderful instrumentation. The second concert will be on August 3 in the ancient theater of Messinia, which will be revived after 17 centuries of silence! I will lead the orchestra for an Italian opera gala in which Cellia Costea and Dimitri Platanias, who hails from Messinia, will perform arias and duets by Verdi and Puccini, and others. Unfortunately, due to the sudden closure of ERT, we were forced to cancel the Verdi Requiem which should have been performed at the Herodes Atticus theatre on June 14. A sensitive subject that has divided public opinion: how did you react to the government decision to close ERT? What roles do public television and radio play in the promotion of classical music? The ERT closure threatens the disappearance of its orchestra and its choir. It would be a huge loss because we have very few professional music ensembles of high quality in our country. These are prestigious musical institutions that must be preserved: the radio choir is the best in Greece. I myself started my musical career as an oboist in the ERT Symphony Orchestra. Besides all European radio services maintain ensembles, it is part of their cultural mission. What are your main projects for the 2013-2014 season? We have many interesting projects lined up. We’ll start on October 4 with a programme around variations followed by a big gala dedicated to Wagner in which we will be performing two openings and the first act of The Valkyrie on October 18. After Beethoven’s cycle last year, we have a Brahms cycle and a cycle of American music in the new season.

What do you listen to after you come back home after a day of rehearsals? Silence is the most precious sound for a musician. I’d rather listen to my daughters’ laughter or to birds but not music. We are surrounded by so-called ‘music’ everywhere. Please spare us the music in airplanes, escalators, beaches and hotel lobbies: it is vulgar, intrusive and mind-numbing!

You have just been appointed Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters by the Ambassador of France in Greece: What does this distinction mean to you? I have very strong ties with France, and in fact my wife, Anne-Laure, is French. I have great admiration for French composers whom I regularly integrate into my repertoire. I started the 2011 season with the Sea of Debussy. I am very honoured by this recognition and hope to deepen the cooperation we have with the French Institute to promote French music and musicians in Greece.

To come back to the Athens State Orchestra, what were the highlights of the 2012-2013 concert season? The Beethoven cycle was, I think, the greatest challenge faced by the Orchestra last season. I have a very strong and fond memory of our concert on December 30th: the Ninth Symphony was sold out. But there were other important events such as the concert celebrating the seventy years of the Orchestra as well as our tribute to Rachmaninoff.

You have been a guest conductor of prestigious orchestras in many countries. Are there a few venues where you’d love to conduct? In the future, I’d like to travel as a guest conductor with no administrative responsibilities to allow me to refocus exclusively on music, working with different cultures, playing in new venues. Among the concert halls in which I’d love to perform, the Amsterdam Concertgebouw, Vienna’s Musikverein and Suntory Hall in Tokyo are my top three.

22 insider athens | July & August 2013

Time Lapse

June 18, 12:34

June 18, 19:42

Herodes Atticus gears itself for tourists who brave the blazing sun. Under a cloudless blue sky, the ancient theatre stands majestically tall.

Concert-goers begin to throng the entrance of the Herodes Atticus as the sun goes down, lights come on and the sky turns a deeper shade of blue to take in a performance in this magical setting. insider athens | July & August 2013 23

Photos: Marie-IrĂ¨ne Moschona

Herodes Atticus

24 insider athens | July & August 2013

Style

King

of retro Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias has dressed glamorous Athenians for over a decade by recapturing the old world elegance of an über-stylish city. Obsessed with hats and pointy pumps, Zoulias’ boutique on Akadimias 4 is a shrine to high fashion. Vassilis Zoulias, you have been called the mad hatter of Greece and the guru of ‘old world Athens’. How easily do you wear these monikers? I was called the mad hatter on a Sunday Times cover during the shows in Paris mid-80s circa... I was wearing crazy hats then as a young and daring fashion stylist. Old Athens was the inspiration for my first shop on Kanari, 10 years ago. Against the need most have to look modern, I wanted to bring old school glamour back. Athens was a grand city once with classy shops around the centre and deserves a shop or more like mine. 10 years in the fashion business at a very challenging time for Greece. What has been the key to your creative process and sustainability in an asphyxiated retail environment? Yes 10 years this year! The key and answer to the so called crisis is perseverance to continue being as creative with less. These are interesting challenging times we are living in and I firmly believe it’s all for good. We just can’t see it now, we’ll know in a few years. I had my 10-year celebration show last December at the Grande Bretagne and 36 out of the 42 looks I showed were with recycled fabrics from my storage. This I believe was my best show ever and my most creative one. I did the best I could with the resources I had. That is the crisis secret: Explore new ways of being creative. Your designs seem to be a cross between Fellini’s dark sensibilities and the gamine look of an Audrey Hepburn. Who have been your fashion icons and your inspirations? Fellini movies are a continued inspiration; the image of Anna Magnani on Mamma Roma with a pencil skirt twin set and high heel pointy pumps; Elli Lambetti dressed in jean dresses in a Cacoyiannis film; Audrey (Hepburn) in Breakfast at Tiffany’s; Grace (Kelly) in High Society..and so many others. Always a woman, always a film..ever-lasting images! Whom do you design for? Describe a Zoulias woman in five words. Sophisticated, unique, classy, daring- to- be- different, herself. Above all, herself.

insider athens | July & August 2013 25

Branding Greekness A few tough years have meant a creative outpouring by talented young Greeks and foreigners who’ve adopted Greece as their home. Condensing Greek quirkiness onto a T-shirt, accessory or object with wit and catchy design, these designers conjure up a smile on your face and tell a Greek story like few travel brochures do. Athens Insider catches up with Dubai-based Olga Papadopoulos, the Greek-American duo of MePe+Greece, Lefteris Kondoroussis of Paper Kingdom, xombli, an online platform for Greek designers and Andria Mitsakos of Wanderlista whose project this summer is to curate ‘fresh Greek fashion blood’

Large Ellada tote bag by Katerina Rotsou

Xombli

Drill lamp by Panagiotis Drantakis

One size ring by Rdesign Quatruzzo

Coaster to coaster set of 4 by We design

26 insider athens | July & August 2013

Donkey plate by Elena Votsi

Xombli (www.xombli.com), an e-shop founded by Fivos Sakalis and Nicholas Yatromanolakis is the only one of its kind, focusing exclusively on Greek design objects, both contemporary and more traditional, with a twist. The products range from traditional ceramic dishes from the Cyclades to limited editions by Greek artists, and from jewelry to small furniture. Xombli collaborates with over 50 Greek designers, selling over 550 objects and the list is still growing. Some of the well-known Greek designers in their roster include New York-based Zoe Keramea or the recipient of the red dot design award, Constantinos Hoursoglou. Yatromanolakis notes, “Some of our objects incorporate elements of Greek folk art, in a tongue-incheek kind of way. Our yiayia shelf features traditional doilies that grandmothers all over Greece use to decorate every available surface in their homes, Holy Granmats, again inspired by these infamous doilies and a series of aprons designed by Postfolk where they combine folk elements from embroideries with disco references! www.xombli.gr

“Modern Greek design doesn’t follow as nothing ever does in Greece, resourcefulness of the Greeks and,

Greek design Flake Creations For Olga Papadopoulos, being creative was a reflection of her moods. “When I was in a good mood I painted fairies and rainbows on my children’s clothes. And they were ecstatic...In my blue moods, I made sweets, cakes, cupcakes, muffins, cookies..” Olga, who had initially given into her creative urge by designing island jewellery, suddenly found herself flooded with requests for children’s clothes. “One thing led to another, the requests multiplied, and Flake was born.” What started off as a record of her children’s ‘first times’ proved to be a new source of inspiration. “I embroider T-shirts from their stories, shirts from their fairy-tales, I paint bags and flip-flops from their summers.” What also helped Olga create the ‘Its Chic to be Greek’ series was homesickness. “Living in Dubai has made me love Greece even more deeply and my homesickness and nostalgia for Greece is what inspires me to create a lot of Greek themed t-shirts. The tsarouhi of the proud Evzones, komboloi, the Cycladic donkey...these are only some of the images I use because Greek chic is fashionable. www.flakecreations.com

Paper Kingdom Lefteris Kondoroussis, the man behind the quirky ‘Meet the Greeks’ series, a range of paper cut-and-fold cartoon figures inspired by timeless Greek characters designed with a tongue in cheek approach, is an unassuming man. Printing quality products since the ‘60s, his company Xartovasilion (Paper Kingdom) also creates Greek-inspired office stationery, calendars, home accessories and gifts. The ‘Meet the Greeks’ range initially started off with four characters – the ubiquitous but lovable kamaki, the evzone, the Greek priest (pappas) and the Cretan. It now has a pantheon of Greek gods and heroes from mythology and other modern characters. Easy-to-assemble as a pre-cut A4 card, ‘Meet the Greeks’ comes in a light, creative and travel-friendly format. Kondoroussis takes pride in his creations as “products that have quality, design and craftsmanship.” ‘Meet the Greeks’ is available at all Duty Free shops, at Public Café, Syntagma Square and online at www.xartovasilion.gr

any particular norms or forms, but it does reflect the familiarity and sometimes, their complicated past.” insider athens | July & August 2013 27

Greek design MePe+Greece Peter Poulos and Mark Caligiuri are the creative duo behind MePe+Greece. Peter, who grew up in the US in a typical Greek-American household, was exposed to the aesthetics of retail at a young age. He moved to Greece six years ago and founded Navarino Icons that “keeps the rich cultural and culinary tradition of Messinia through authentic products.” Mark, an architect by training, moved to Athens from Bridgehampton a year ago. When not scouring local flea markets for interesting finds, the duo design donkeythemed accessories. Retailed at 45 euros a piece, their large donkey canvas bag doubles up as a beach-bag and an overnighter. “The inspiration came from plasteres who carry their tools in these sturdy bags.” Donkey totes, knapsacks, ipad cases, t-shirts are next in line. MePe+Greece bags are currently sold at Studio Yria in Paros. www.yriaparos.com and online on http://souk.indagare.com

Wanderlista

Pericles Kondylatos pumice stone necklace

Clash-ified 2 Tee Shirt House exclusive t-shirt for Wanderlista

Dimitris Petrou & Dea Rosa Mykonos Windmill Beach Tote

Wanderlista at Mykonos’ Kivotos resort is a brainchild of globe-trotting GreekAmerican Andria Mitsakos. Taking a brief break from her hectic travels, she spends a year in Greece curating a careful selection of fresh new fashion blood, as well as designers who are already in the Hellas style spotlight. The goal of her latest project is to help promote Greek designers to an international audience. Andria chose Kivotos for this new venture, “due to its international clientele who possess a penchant for style and substance.” Featuring exclusive pieces by Greek designers, as well as Andria’s own minimalist Dea Rosa snakeskin accessories line made in Athens, and a peppering of international designers, the pop-up resort boutique will mirror the heart and soul of Mykonos, the most sophisticated island in the Cyclades. Andria views her Wanderlista Boutique project as an opportunity to nurture positive, energetic talent that epitomizes Greece’s legendary fighting spirit. “Crisis breeds creativity and there are a few of us who view this time in Greece as an opportunity. I’m here to support my fellow Hellenes in Making It New,” she says (a reference to a book detailing the life of American expats Sara and Gerald Murphy, paragons of the Lost Generation). “There is a certain breed of people here that mirror Paris in the late 20s, expats, young entrepreneurs and passionate artists wanting to maintain the ancient passion of this country.” www.wanderlista.com, www.dearosa.com

Signature Wanderlista Mykonos Map necklace

Annie P for Dea Rosa beach tote A collaboration between digital textile designer, Annie Papadimitriou and Andria Mitsakos for her accessories line, Dea Rosa.

28 insider athens | July & August 2013

AGORA

Drawing in porcelain, available at Benaki Museum

Rosary beads in crystal, available at the Komboloi Museum

“Evzonas” and “Kamaki” from the “Meet the Greeks” collection by Hartovasilion, available at Public stores

Papadopoulos Butter Cookies collectible tin boxes, available at supermarkets Korres Holiday in Greece, available at pharmacies

Addresses • attica CityLink, Panepistimiou 9, Athens, Tel: 211.180.2600 Golden Hall, Kifissias 37A, Maroussi, Tel: 211.181.4000 • Costa Navarino Dunes, Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000 • Goulandris Natural History Museum, Levidou 13, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.5870 • Hellenic Duty Free Shops, El. Venizelos Airport • Museum of Cycladic Art, Noefitou Douka 4, Athens, Tel: 210.722.8321-3 • Benaki Museum, Koumbari 1, Athens, Tel: 210.367.1000 • Komboloi Museum, Staikopoulou 25, Nafplio, Tel: 27520.21618 • Public, Karagiorgi Serbias 1, Syntagma, Tel: 210.324.6210 and www.public.gr

30 insider athens | July & August 2013

Agora Gold necklace designed by Zolotas from the “Princesses of the Mediterranean” collection, available at the Museum of Cycladic Art

“Panegyria” in the Aegean sea by George Pittas, available at www.xombli.com

“Kafenia” in the Aegean sea by George Pittas, available at www.xombli.com

Pin representing a Cycladic figurine shaped violin, by Anna Maria Charalambides, available at the Museum of Cycladic Art

Herbs and ceramic figurines from Costa Navarino Icons collection, available at Costa Navarino, Hellenic Duty Free Shops, attica, Museum of Cycladic Art, Goulandris Natural History Museum

Extra virgin olive oil organic by Gaea, available at supermarkets

insider athens | July & August 2013 31

Tourism

A recipe for tourism George Drakopoulos, General Director of the The Association of Greek Tourism Enterprises (SETE) recently announced the start of the first phase of a three-year project that aims to unite gastronomy with the marketing of Greek tourism. The project identifies gastronomy as the main ingredient in the marketing menu of Greek tourism and to showcase Greece as an attractive culinary tourism destination. Maria Stergiou asks a few rapid-fire questions.

What are the basic goals of the Greek Gastronomy project launched by SETE? The one and only goal of the project is to make gastronomy one of the key reasons for tourists choosing Greece as their holiday destination. Obviously, by enhancing and promoting our gastronomic offer, we give tourists more reasons to come in Greece, to have more distinguished experiences and to spend more money. How does SETE’s Greek gastronomy project differ from similar initiatives that were launched in the past? How will the bilingual portal work in practice? What are the next steps? This project differs in two aspects. The first one is that the project development is based on marketing principles. Every single phase of the project should focus on the visitor and on our basic goal mentioned above. The second one is that this project wants to gather the essence of all other similar initiatives. Actually, all that is missing is to join forces in order to take a step forward. As for the portal, our goal is to facilitate the “gastronomic” navigation of the visitor. The visitor should be able through a “click” to be well

32 insider athens | July & August 2013

informed about the gastronomic offer of the destination. It is all about formulating an attractive gastronomic offer and spreading it to the world and its people. At the time, we formulate the gastronomic portfolio of Greece and we design the gastronomic database. Our next step is the development of the portal. Greek gastronomy was largely ignored as a key aspect of the Greek tourism product despite the awareness of the benefits of the Mediterranean diet and the popularity of Greek cuisine. How do you hope to tap into the wealth of the culinary specialities and products of different regions of Greece? The first step is to record and highlight Greece’s gastronomic wealth per region. So, by putting together all this fragmented information, foreign visitors and journalists will have for the first time a unique, one stop shop for Greek gastronomy. We hope that they will come closer to our gastronomy, they will spread the news and both awareness and demand will rise. Do you think that this effort of recording and highlighting Greece’s gastronomic wealth will result in serious attempts to safeguard authentic Greek recipes, appellations and domain names? Through an indirect way though, the answer is yes. As our aim is to bring more gastronomic tourists and this kind of tourists seek for authenticity and locality, I think that demand will drive offer and so on.

Harmony and history in the Mediterranean Discover 4500 years of civilization in the lap of luxury at the Mediterranean’s new prime destination, The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, Costa Navarino.

he Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort, is one of the two Starwood five star resorts at Costa Navarino. Located in the pristine scenery of lush olive groves and indigenous trees, by the coastline of The Dunes Beach, in the region of Messinia, southwest Peloponnese, The Romanos Resort is the perfect getaway to explore new authentic possibilities and add to your personal journey. The Romanos Resort presents 321 luxurious rooms, suites and villas of exceptional Messinian architecture, in perfect harmony with the environment, so as to protect and preserve the natural beauty and heritage of an area with 4500 years of history. All accommodations enjoy contemporary furnishings in white, cream and blue colors of absolute lush cotton and linen, accompanied by dark wooden materials and modern art paintings. They all afford the unobstructed inviting views of the crystal clear blue waters of the Ionian Sea or a wonderful backdrop of the golf landscape full of olive groves and local flora, whilst many of them also feature individual infinity pools. The Romanos Resort has received exceptional recognition for its exquisite architecture such as “Best Suite, Interior Design of the Year” for Royal Villa Koroni in European Hotel Design Awards 2010, as well as accolades from well-known media and award institutions, including the Condé Nast Traveller’s Gold List 2012 - named among the world’s Best Hotels, Condé Nast Traveller (UK) and Condé Nast Traveler (USA), Travel + Leisure, The Sunday Times, CNN’s travel website as one of the “World’s best coastal resorts”, National Geographic Traveler magazine along with the overall destination Costa Navarino and The Westin Resort, Costa Navarino.

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Special promotion

The Romanos Resort also takes initiative on up-scale and innovative dining with the unique Omega concept which offers a varied menu based on the Omega Diet. The dishes are largely based on the proper balance of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids boosting the body’s defenses against disease and helping to maintain healthy weight. The options though are numerous and range between the exceptional tastes of local, international, Lebanese or Pan Asian culinary experiences. Anax lounge with its captivating sunset views from the top is the ideal lounge area to enjoy a Luxury Collection Cocktail prior your dining time. The 4000m2 Anazoe Spa provides the ideal environment to rejuvenate and relax while exploring a full range of special therapies and exclusive oleotherapy® treatments, based on the combination of ancient wisdom and modern science. The Anazoe Spa experience offers a full range of treatments developed from health and beauty practices of ancient Greece. The unique olive-oil treatments (oleotherapy®) are based on local therapies inscribed on clay tablets discovered at the nearby Palace of Nestor. Individualized to address specific needs, treatments are administered to the accompaniment of soothing music in a serene environment of ice-grotto rooms, mist showers and herbal saunas. The signature treatments are further enhanced by the use of exclusive local elements such as Messinian olive oil, fresh herbs and sea salts, along with select products from around the globe. Golf lovers will enjoy the two 18-hole signature Golf Courses, the Dunes Course and the Bay Course - both ideally located close to the sea, along with panoramic sea and mountain views. The region’s excellent climate is ideal for those wanting to participate

in sports and outdoor activities and explore Messinia’s rich heritage, culture and traditions. Sports enthusiasts can choose from a vast list of aquatic activities, such as wind surfing, kite-surfing, diving and kayaking, or outdoor pursuits including mountain biking and hiking. At the Sports & Entertainment Center, the range of activities includes bowling, basketball and volleyball while table tennis, speedminton, squash and badminton are available at the fully equipped Navarino Racquet Academy. Moreover, guests are encouraged to flavour authentic culinary tastes from local produces and recipes as well as locally produced wine from the Navarino Vineyards, and experience traditional activities, through the Costa Navarino’s Messinian Authenticity programme, ranging from olive harvesting and wine-making to home cooking with local women and many more that will enrich their daily journey in a pleasant and indelible way. A stay here is also an opportunity to learn the secrets of the galaxy through special astronomic nights and to introduce oneself to the enchanting world of karagiozis, Greek puppet theatre. Guests may further enhance their global exploration by visiting the nearby cultural and natural attractions such as the Vaulted Tombs, Nestor’s Palace, Voidokilia, Gialova Lagoon, Polilimnio waterfalls, Navarino Bay and Fanari as well as the Temple of Apollo Epicurus, Ancient Olympia and Mystras which are also part of the UNESCO World’s heritage list. The Romanos Resort is the perfect location for unrivaled relaxation surrounded by alluring sceneries, sparkling turquoise waters and authentic traditions.

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on the Islands

Art

Athens Insider travels to the islands and picks out a few highlights on the summer arts calendar.

s the summer begins, art imitates life in the mass exodus from the city into the world of mainland Greece and its islands, as summer art programs and festivals across the country prepare to do what Greeks do best (for better or for worse): Express themselves.

HYDRA Starting with Hydra, Greece’s traditional artisan retreat, where cars have no place and donkeys control the island’s cobbled streets, get ready for some serious arty activity. Urs Fischer: YES Deste Foundation Project Space, Slaughterhouse, Until September 30 Commissioned by the DESTE Foundation, internationally renowned Swiss artist Urs Fischer will be carrying out a major participatory project on Hydra in the island’s former slaughterhouse. The artist invites all local schoolchildren and adults, tourists and visitors alike to the exhibition to create objects out of colored clay. The produced sculptures – the result of diverse visions and motives, different skills and methods – will eventually comprise a single work, the trace of an open collective performance to be displayed in fragments inside and outside the old abattoir. This anonymous collection of objects by many a named participant, a ‘symphony in clay’ so to speak, is at once a game for all age groups and a collective take on the island and its history. The DESTE Foundation Project Space in Hydra was established in 2009 in the island’s former slaughterhouse, a strange and evocative place, freighted with an eerie history. Although the space was recently restored and renovated, it retains many of its former features. Its past is still visible and its original identity largely preserved. Every summer since 2009 a different artist has been commissioned to present an exhibition that has been designed specifically for that particular space and the island itself. Alain Lefevre, July 20 While on the island, take the time to attend a piano recital by internationally renowned pianist Alain Lefevre, in cooperation with the Canadian Embassy and the Cultural Association of Hydra and to visit until late September an amazing painting exhibition featuring works by the renowned Greek painter who lives and works in Paris, John Kotti. Sudha Nair-Iliades

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Summer Art

9FR

SIFNOS The Greek House by Christian Brechneff An interesting read for the summer, Christian Brechneff presents a funny, touching narrative about his relationship to the Greek island of Sifnos, writing with warmth about its unforgettable residents and the house he bought in a hilltop village. This is the story of how a twenty-oneyearold painter searching for artistic inspiration and a quiet place to work fell in love with Sifnos, and how it became a haven from the complexities of his life. It is the story of his village and of the island over thirty-odd years—from a time when there were barely any roads to the arrival of the modern world with its tourists and high-speed boats and the euro. And it is the story of the end of this love affair—how the island changed and how he changed; how he realized he had outgrown Sifnos, or couldn’t grow there anymore. The Greek House is a celebration of place and an honest account of self-discovery. In its pages, a naïve young man filled with longing comes into his own. Weaving himself into the life of the island, painting it year after year, he finds a place he can call home. Christian Brechneff was born in the Belgian Congo in 1950 and was educated in Switzerland and the United States (St. Olaf College). In 1975 he received his Master of Arts degree from the Royal College of Art in London. He has exhibited in Switzerland, Spain, England, Germany, Sri Lanka, and the United States, and his paintings appear in public and private collections all over the world, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Brechneff is also the author of Homage: Encounters with the East, a book of travel drawings published in 2007. He lives in Hadlyme, Connecticut. www.christianbrechneff.com. Clairy Tsalouchidis

POROS In the Ancient Way Kostas Papanikolaou and Tasos Mantzavinos, Citronne Gallery in Poros, Until 26 July Tsarouchis said something similar: There is undoubtedly a difference between Eastern and Western painting […]. I have always been drawn to Greek painting because it gives me, if nothing else, the illusion that in it the two manners meet. This may well be the ideal perspective for initiating ourselves into the painting of Kostas Papanikolaou and Tasos Mantzavinos, for it points to a certain suspended ‘on-the-cuspness’ in both. Their work exists at the point where East and West merge, and their painting manages to rise out of these vast traditions fresh, pure and with an apparent simplicity. An exhibition by Alekos Kyraninis follows the July exhibition and runs until endSeptember. Alekos Kyrarinis deals with a complex, strictly personal quest. The “dragon”, symbol of evil, dominates in his artistic language. From classical Greek mythology, dragons have frightened, threatened, and destroyed until they meet up with the redeemer, the liberator in the form of a hero, a bold man, a saint. The senses come alive with the iconography, the chants, the candles and frankincense, Holy Communion and the antidoron. The dragon is exiled through faith, virtue prevails, the soul becomes calm, the heart “becomes vigilant”. Penny Apostolidis

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Summer Art

9FR

Tinos Jazz Festival 2013 - Jazz Universal Language, 30,31 August & September 1 Since that first edition of the festival few things have changed, but not the festival’s spirit and identity that, together with its top-quality programs and its warm and friendly atmosphere, have been at the heart of its success. For the fifth edition of this festival, George Kontrafouris, the artistic director of the festival, presents a programme with a repertoire ranging from traditional jazz standards to more contemporary and modern jazz. The highlight of this edition, Manfred Schoof, the founder of European free jazz. The Tinos Jazz Festival presents an outstanding showcase of jazz music that attracts fans from a wide-range of ages and nationalities. In a short period of time, the Tinos Jazz Festival has become a unique forum for both contemporary and future jazz and is an opportunity to get familiar with jazz in all its forms, to experience the confrontation between styles and artistic views. The festival features 5 live shows over 3 nights with the Manos Theodosakis sextet (Tribute to Cole Porter) , Alekos Vretos Quintet, Petros Klampanis & J.P. Pilk Duet, Leonidas Sarantopoulos and the Manfred Schoof Quartet. Patricia Graire

SAMOS Samos Young Artists Festival, August 7–13 A small, familiar yet elegant meeting of international artists at the crossroads between the Orient and Occident, the Samos Young Artists Festival “wishes to contribute to international understanding via the universal language of music”, according to Chiona and Kurt Schwarz, the founders of the festival. Financed exclusively by private donations and local organizations and associations, especially the Cultural Association and Municipality of Samos, the artistic director this year is violinist Daniel Nodel. Nodel was born in Minsk and is a member of the Bavarian Radio Symphony Orchestra. With concerts held in the evening in an old amphitheater under the starry heavens, the programme at the Samos Festival has an extremely interesting repertoire performed by young talent from across the world. Gisela Petropoulou

Enjoy a mix of art and island life and if all else fails, there is also the summer sun, the silver light of the moon, the soft lapping of the Mediterranean Sea, the murmur of cicadas, and the view of the infinite horizon to contemplate. Some might say those incredible views that rise and fall from the sea make up the true artistry of Greece.

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For more information visit the following websites (in order of appearance): Deste Foundation, Hydra Slaughterhouse: www.deste.gr, Citronne Gallery: www.citronne.com, Tinos Jazz festival:www.tinosjazz.com, Samos Festival: www.samosfestival.com

ATHENS

Cine Paris

Cine Flisvos

Cinema under the stars Nothing defines the beginning of Greek summer as open-air cinemas do. Every neighbourhood has one: some as old as the history of cinema, perched on a rooftop with a view of the Acropolis; others, more recent entrants, right on the water set to the music of sailboat masts swaying in the summer breeze; still others surrounded by perfumed gardens that fill the sultry evening with the quintessential Greek fragrance of orange blossoms and jasmine. With over 60 open-air cinemas to choose from in Attica alone, it is a Greek summer tradition that is truly alive and well. Open from June to September, Maria-Irene Moschona rounds up four of her favourite summer cinemas. 40 insider athens | July & August 2013

Photos: Marie-Irène Moschona

Greek summer

Dexameni

aving survived the crisis and real-estate developers, summer cinemas with their director’s chairs and their compelling aroma of crackling popcorn are still a haunt for the young and old alike. Most families visit en masse – grandmothers with a few mezedakia wrapped for ever-hungry grandkids, babies in strollers, pets on leash, young parents who can keep their children distracted enough to sneak in most of the movie, teens in large pareas – the open-air cinema is a truly democratic space, open to all. What’s more, open-air cinemas let you sip on a frappe, knock back a couple of beers, snack, lick ice-creams and even smoke while propping up your feet on the seats ahead. But for most cinephiles, its appeal lies in the possibility of catching reruns of blockbusters in two evening shows. Keeping the open-air cinema tradition alive is the Athens Open Air Film Festival which runs until 30 September. In its third year, the festival offers free cinema and cultural events and runs at different venues in the centre of Athens, open-air cinemas, at the distinctive Aghia Irini and Metaxourgeio squares, courtyards and pedestrian zones. The festival premiered this year with the movie Before Midnight directed by Richard Linklater, starring Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy. Other events this year include screenings of classic films, special avant- premières, concerts and interactive events and street performances.

Cine Thisio

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Greek summer

Cine Flisvos For a fun evening by the sea, Cine Flisvos at the Flisvos Marina is a great open-air option where you can have a long walk on the marinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s promenade admiring the yachts before grabbing some popcorn and settling in to watch a movie. While it might still be daylight and the surround sound might be more childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natter and parents shushing them than Dolby, it still makes for a very convivial evening. An added plus is easy parking and several after-movie drinks and dinner options in the Flisvos Marina complex. Parko Flisvou, Palaio Faliro. Tel: 210.982.1256

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Cine Paris Urban legend has it that it was a Greek hairdresser who named the outdoor cinema after her beloved Paris where she had spent a few years. It briefly functioned as an indoor and out-door cinema and then closed down in the late â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;60s for almost 20 years before re-opening again in 1986. It has been regaling movie fans since with Greek and international hits and is by far one of the most popular cinemas in the city. Located in the Plaka, it is a beloved of tourists and Athenians alike and has retained its old-world charm. Kidathinaion 22, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.2071, 210.324.8057

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Dexameni So named after the cistern that it sits on that once supplied water to all of Athens, Dexameni square is a cool, green city-square with an openair cinema that has an island-like look and feel. With white-washed cobbled pavements, labyrinthine alleys and cascading bougainvillea, it is remarkable how quickly the landscape changes from rushed and uberchic Kolonaki to rustic and laid-back Dexameni. No better venue to lounge in deck chairs and take in a movie with friends and family than Dexameni while a few hens scurry by. Complete with little tables to rest your soft drinks and nacho trays on, Dexameni is a great setting to spend a lazy, hazy, crazy summer evening. Dexameni Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.362.3942, 210.360.2363

Get a popcorn, watch a movie but also take in the beauty

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Greek summer

Cine Thisio Built in 1935, Cine Thissio remains the undisputed queen of open-air cinemas. Voted by CNN’s Hoishan Chan as ‘the best movie-theatre in the world for being as interesting as the movies it shows’, Cine Thisio is a hot favourite both among film distributors for movie premieres as well as among cinephiles for watching re-runs. Regulars come back for more, including Ira, who is the local mascot. With a majestic view of the floodlit Acropolis, this outdoor cinema is located on Apostolou Pavlou street in the Thisio district, just a few hundred meters down the pedestrian path from the ancient Herodus Atticus theatre, which also opens in the summer for quality cultural events. Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio Tel: 210.342.0864, 210.347.0980

of the low summer moon and the heady fragrance

of the Greek summer. insider athens | July & August 2013 45

Summer Cornucopia Sun-drenched fruits and vegetables vie with each other for their eye-catching colour, texture, crunchiness and succulence at the local farmer’s markets. Follow Athens Insider’s guide to the juicy pleasures of the long, hot Greek summer.

The irreplaceable, humble Greek salad When the mercury soars, nothing can substitute the simple Greek salad. A terrific example of Greece’s elementary yet immensely satisfying sun-drenched seasonal cuisine, the Greek salad is a humble dish, rich in flavour that balances the palate as few salads do. The sheer lusciousness and primordial flavour of a ripened Greek tomato, kissed by the sun, is hard to beat. The perfect ally to the tomato is the crunchy cucumber which adds just a hint of freshness to the salad. Feta adds a salty, sharp edge, while oregano brings

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subtlety; finely sliced, crisp red onions enhance the salad with a sweet sharpness; olives, preferably from Kalamata, reveal a hint of astringency; green pepper rings impart a bitter crispiness; and the drizzle of olive oil just brings alive the distinct-yet-collective flavours together. A national culinary treasure, the Greek salad is a child of the Greek summer, a product of azure blue skies and a blazing sun, uncomplicated in its construction and unparalleled in its satisfaction.

Photos: Marie-IrĂ¨ne Moschona

Greek summer

Sun-kissed fruits If Greek vegetables are succulent, how does one even begin to describe the overflowing fruit basket of cherries, apricots, peaches, figs, watermelons, melons and nectarines? Tender, juicy, cooling fruits, intense in flavour, make their way to the Greek table in a variety of forms: from wedges of watermelon and melons that are served as epidorpia at all tavernas on-the-house to cooling granitas and mounds of ruby-red and yellow and maraschino-red cherries, served after a languorous meal. Apricots, peaches and aromatic succulent nectarines, plums and strawberries, all add colour, texture and gaiety to the Greek summer.

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Cocktails

Yia MAS!

Pictures & texts courtesy of Hellenic Export Promotion Board

Steven Olson creates cocktail recipes to toast the summer

Mavrodaphne Cooler

Ouzotini

2 oz. Mavrodaphne ½ oz. Crème de Cassis ½ oz. white rum 1 oz. lemon juice 2 oz. cranberry juice

1 oz. vodka 1 oz. Ouzo 1 oz. Peach Schnapps ½ oz. fresh lime juice chifonade of 5-6 mint leaves

Serve over ice in a high-ball glass. Garnish with mint sprig and lemon twist.

Shake with ice and strain into a sugar-rimmed martini glass.

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Here comes the sun!

Louis Vuitton wallet, Spring-Summer 2013 Collection, available at Louis Vuitton

Scarf by Vicente Sahuc, available at Hermès

Enjoy Greece’s unlimited supply of sunshine with bright colours to match

Sleeveless bold stripe drop waist dress by Lacoste, available at Notos Galleries Louis Vuitton shoes, Spring-Summer 2013 Collection, available at Louis Vuitton

Juicy Couture hat, available at attica

StriVectin – TL tightening body cream, available at Sephora

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Crème Sublime Or by Rogeret Gallet, available at pharmacies, attica and Hondos Center

Louis Vuitton bag, Spring-Summer 2013 Collection, available at Louis Vuitton

Yellow bag by Vasilis Zoulias, available at Vasilis Zoulias Old Athens

Beauty & fashion

Brazil maxi-twilly in silk twill available at Hermès

Swimwear by Boss, available at attica

Aqualia Therman Night Spa, available at pharmacies and Hondos Center

Limited edition Jean Paul Gautier, Summer 2013, available at Hondos Center Precious Temptations earrings, available at Chopard

Summer bag by Lacoste, available at Notos Galleries

Addresses • attica: attica CityLink, Panepistimiou 9, Athens, Tel: 211.180.2600 attica Golden Hall, Kifissias 37A, Maroussi, Tel: 211.181.4000 • Chopard: Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou, Tel: 210.325.0555 • Hermès: Voukourestiou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.323.3715 • Hondos Center: Ermou 36, Athens, Tel: 210.372.2900, Kolokotroni 3, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.8900 Agiou Konstantinou 2, Glyfada, Tel: 210.891.0900 • Louis Vuitton: Voukourestiou 19, Athens, Tel: 210.361.3938 Levidou 4, Kifisia, Tel: 210.623.4530, Swimwear by Burberry, Enoplon Dynameon, Tria Pigadia, available at attica Mykonos, Tel: 22890.78850 • Notos Galleries: Stadiou & Aiolou, Athens, Tel: 210.324.5811 McArthurGlen Designer Outlet, Spata, Tel: 210.663.8440 • Sephora: Ermou 24, Athens, Tel: 210.331.3167 A. Metaxa 33-35, Glyfada, Tel: 210.894.3378 • Vasilis Zoulias Old Athens: Akadimias 4, Athens, Tel: 210.338.9924

Cufflings by Vicente Sahuc, available at Hermès

Dive into the deep blue Add a touch of blue to reflect the colours of the Aegean insider athens | July & August 2013 51

Greek Meat Lovers

Epikouros, Greece’s best-known food critic and authority on all things related to Greece’s rich culinary offerings, reviews Kritikos in Kantza, for a ‘perfect steak that will touch your soul’

he Greeks have their own pyramids. They symbolize healthy eating, the model of nutrition that should be followed by the world, especially the West, which consumes solely burgers and fries, soaked in unhealthy saturated and trans-fats. This cliché of the Mediterranean diet sees Greek people eating only vegetables, grains, pulses, yogurt, olive oil and fish full of Omega-3 goodness. Only a small amount of meat is eaten, mostly skewered, and that too, on the occasion of religious celebrations such as Easter. Well, I have news for you: Greeks are great meat lovers. Our per capita consumption of meat is one of the highest in Europe. Our craving for red-blooded protein is insatiable. See what happens for instance when a couple of kilos of grilled lamb chops land on a table in a taverna. Greeks fall on them like wild predators on their prime prey, devouring them with relish and great carnivorous gusto. Also, the more upscale restaurants serve, even in times of economic crisis,

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an inordinate amount of rib eye steaks, pekahnas, t-bones, and wagyu or Black Angus beef. Though meat lovers we are, it must be admitted however that we do not know our beef from our veal. Traditionally, we prefer lamb, especially milk-fed so that it does not smell; we also prefer fresh, bright red coloured meat than dry-aged, ruby dark, marbled prime beef. And while we are masters in preparing lamb on the spit, we, on the whole, do not know how to grill good beef, always opting for kalopsimeno, i.e. so well done that one cannot separate it from the charcoals on which the destitute meat was blackened to death. Yet, there are exceptions. There are surprisingly some tavernas and restaurants in Athens that offer beef which can compete with the best steak houses in the world. I will take you to one which is my favourite and which will satisfy any meat lover’s craving for excellent, wellaged, thickly cut and superbly grilled beef. The place is called Kritikos

Photos: Eirini Sofroniadi

Gastonomy

and it is in Kantza, in eastern Attica, very close to Aghia Paraskevi. Now this is a meat taverna pure and simple. One concentrates on the meat and tries to avoid the delectable albeit vegetarian mezes that arrive at the table. Please reserve your appetite for the meat. Begin your meal with the tender short ribs of beef on the spit and perhaps a bit of the succulent kokoretsi. Continue with the lamb kidneys, smelling of spring, grilled on their fat, and so tasty that you might want to order a few more kilos. But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, because your moral code as a meat lover commands restraint. You can accompany these meaty amuse-bouches with the house bottled Malagouzia, an excellent variety that has both the body to sustain the meatiness and the acidity to cut the fat. Now is the time of the lamb chops. No other taverna grills lamb chops to such perfection, without a trace of black marks. Thickly cut, juicy, meaty with the fat combining succulence and crispiness harmoniously. Perhaps, by now, your wine has changed to a house bottled Merlot with relatively soft tannins but with enough nerve and fruitiness to accompany the bone-in rib eye or the t-bone from relatively young animals which have not been aged, but have enough size and marble to generate a respectable steak, grilled medium rare so that not a drop of juicy goodness is lost. You can relax a bit now, have some salad, such as stamnagathia, wild bitter greens from Crete, bathed in home-made tart olive oil, or some French fries or courgettes. And this brings you to the coda of the meat symphony: the real McCoy, the aged beef, with such fatty marble running through its sinew

that would make Praxitelis want to recreate his Hermes with it once again. When the rib eye on the bone arrives at the table, resting on a huge platter, dark outside but ruby red inside, with its inviting juices flowing like springs of life eternal, you drop everything else, you pour in your glass an equally ruby dark, house bottled Cabernet Sauvignon, aged as competently as the meat, and offer it to the Gods as libation, before you immerse your impatient teeth into this holy flesh. You close your eyes and allow the umami tastes of this perfect steak (that puts to shame Peter Lugerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famed steaks), flow through your veins and through your soul. I know that this image might frustrate the sensibilities of all those who think that Greeks eat only eggplants, tzatziki and sardines. But I must remind you that more than anything else we are on the whole a mountainous people, with a long tradition of goat or sheep herding, pig farming and some cattle husbandry in the northern part of Greece or in islands such as Naxos or Syros. Thus our love for meat is traditional. The Mediterranean diet was a consequence of rural poverty. Now that we are relatively better off urbanites, notwithstanding the crisis, this meat loving tradition has been transferred to the fashionable Kobe-like beef. But if you want an excellent Greek beef, Kritikos is the place. And let the pyramids of healthy clichĂŠs be crushed! Kritikos, Aiolou 49, Kantza, Tel: 210.665.9061

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Italian fare in an azure setting A

ppropriately named after the spectacular views of crimson orbs dissolving into the sea, Il Tramonto, which means sunset in Italian, is a terrific setting to dine at. With the magical beauty of the Saronic Gulf as a backdrop and the restaurant’s pristinely manicured lawns offering a stark contrast to the designer furniture in pure white, the setting itself gets full marks for a memorable evening out. Add a new creative menu with appealing flavour combinations and an extensive wine cellar with fine wine labels and Il Tramonto matches its perfect location with an interesting meal. Athens Insider sampled the revamped menu and a few of the stars worth mentioning include the intriguing mix of textures and tastes that the smoked salmon in a meringue nest evokes. The soft, salty, smokiness of the salmon offers an interesting counterpoint to the sweet crunchiness of the meringue. Another starter worth trying is

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a delightfully well-marinated and thinly sliced beef carpaccio with rocket, pecorino and lemon vinaigrette. But without reservation, the one that set the tone for a great meal ahead, were the crispy rice croquettes with smoked prosciutto and mozzarella, with just a hint of Sambuca to lift it a notch. For mains, we’d highly recommend grilled mullet filets, served with Sicilian split peas accompanied by a light fennel sauce or a white grouper pave with limoncello veloute – a good choice for sultry summer evenings. If you’d like your fix of carbs and high-protein, opt for the risotto with taleggio cheese and prosciutto and the melt-in-themouth-goodness that is the braised osso buco. To indulge your sweet tooth, its best to order a dessert degustation platter with samplings of everything on the menu which include Ital-

Photos: Kostas Bekas

Restaurant review

For a creative take on standard Italian fare, with just the lapping of the sea as music, Il Tramonto at the Astir Palace Resort

ian staples such as panna cotta ice-cream and tiramisu. The best bit is that for all that the restaurant offers, breath-taking views, creative cuisine and excellent service, it is extremely competitively priced. Here is where you take people when you need to right wrongs, re-spark a romance or to just escape into a tranquil zone. Il Tramonto, Arion Resort & Spa, Astir Palace Resort, Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210 8902000, 210 8901794 www.arionresortathens.com

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Wellness

Touch & Go: Express relief Ever felt like getting a massage without having to fix an appointment a week in advance? Here is a solution for on-thego-urbanites looking for instant relief from knotted muscles and sore limbs. The brain-child of Apostolos and Patricia, certified and specially trained masseur-physiotherapists, Touch and Go is located just off the arterial Metaxas Ave. on Dousmani street, across the police station in Glyfada. With two therapy rooms, one with a massage chair and the other with a bed, Touch and Go offers deep-tissue treatments from a 10-minute neck-rub to a 20-minute foot massage and 30-minute stretching sessions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all very reasonably priced and extremely effective. Offering tranquility, relaxation and relief in an express version, Touch and Go is ideal for busybodies as it lets you enjoy a massage without an appointment, without oil and without even having to take your clothes off!

Insider Tip: For even busier souls, Touch and Go offers services at home and at the workplace. Dousmani 15 Glyfada, info@touchandgo.gr, Tel: 210.894.4734

Harnn: Wellness corner Located on a quiet street in the heart of Kolonaki, Harnn shop is a quaint little boutique packed with the goodness of Thai wellness products. In beautifully-packaged, awardwinning pouches and containers, Harnn shop stocks a wide array of feel-good beauty, skin-care, hair, face and body treatments, and spa products for the home, made exclusively with natural ingredients from plant extracts and essential oils. Inspired by Asian philosophy, Harnnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural herbal extracts and holistic approach to relaxation and tranquility are ideally combined to eliminate the stress of urban city life.

Insider Tip: While gift-shopping for friends or for oneself, make time for a massage treatment by a therapist in a specially designed corner in the store! Irakleitou 15, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.364.5420

56 insider athens | July & August 2013

A five star hotel, member of Domotel group of luxury hotels, perfect for your summer vacations for two or more! “Sea or mountain?” Just choose the view from your room! Built in the 60’s, with the unique architectural style of the historic “Xenia” hotels it has been totally reconstructed in 2006, creating thus an idyllic environment of luxury, lifestyle, calmness and relaxation. With its ideal location Domotel Xenia Volos is the perfect starting point for short trips and excursions to Sporades islands or to the picturesque villages of Pelion. Do not miss to start your day with the awarded Greek breakfast, to experience unique local tastes at the O2 open kitchen restaurant or to rejuvenate at the spectacular Dreamway Spa and finally to have a drink to its Yacht club, the hot spot of Volos with the most enchanting view to the sea!

1, Plastira Street, 38221, Volos, T.: +30 24210 92700, F.: +30 24210 92800 xeniavolou@domotel.gr

Insider guide refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ASIAN Golden Phoenix Halandri NUI Kifissia Wagamama Maroussi

BAR - RESTAURANTS Apsendi Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki Eclipse Kolonaki FRAME Kolonaki GINGER Mavili Sq ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro & Halandri MAMACAS Gazi NIXON Kerameikos OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki

FISH RESTAURANTS Ai Nikolas Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia Kollias Syngrou LA PECHE Glyfada MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni PAPADAKIS Kolonaki PLOUS PODILATOU Piraeus Psaroma Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO 25ARAKI Glyfada VAROULKO Kerameikos ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS Almyra Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus Ichthyes Kifissia KOLLIAS Piraeus MAISTRALI Vouliagmeni PSARAKI Vouliagmeni TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro MONO RESTAURANT Plaka SPONDI Pangrati TARTARE Glyfada VARDIS Kifissia

GOURMET AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri KUZINA Thissio Eclipse Kolonaki Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni

HYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia P-Box Kolonaki Polly Magoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka ALERIA Kerameikos ATHIRI Kerameikos Berdema Kifissia CUCINA POVERA Pangrati DAKOS Kolonaki DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIS GI Kifissia ELIAS KOUKOUTSI Voula FASOLI Exarhia IDEAL Omonia KARAVITIS Pangrati KAVOURAS Exarhia MANI MANI Acropolis MELILOTOS, Monastiraki PLATANOS Plaka PSOMI & ALATI Halandri RAKOKAZANO Halandri PROSOPA Gazi TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL Meat Me Kifissia Meat Square Glyfada & Halandri Meatropoleos 3 Syntagma Telemachos Barbeque Club Kifissia

INDIAN BOLLYWOOD Gazi Indian Kitchen Syntagma Indian Masala Thissio ISKANDAR Alimos JAIPUR PALACE Kifissia KOHENOOR Gazi

INTERNATIONAL Ache Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia

ITALIAN 30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis ACQUA AZZURA Kifissia AL BACIO Vouliagmeni AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni AL MILANESE Kolonaki ALTRO Kolonaki BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri CAPANNA Psyrri DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi DVLCIS IN FVNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada IL SEGRETO Voula Il Tinello Faliro IL TRAMONTO Vouliagmeni MAGIAMO BY MEAT SQUARE Kifissia

Mauzac Maroussi Matilde Pizza Bar Gazi Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi Pausa Maroussi Piazza Mela Kifissia, di Antonio Halandri SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki TONY BONANO Piraeus VEZENE Hilton VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE DOSIRAK Syntagma FAR EAST Syntagma FREUD ORIENTAL Kolonaki FURIN KAZAN Syntagma GOLDEN PHOENIX Kifissia INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni NOODLE BAR Syntagma SHOGUN Kifissia Square Sushi Kolonaki

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN Alatsi Hilton Apla Kifissia BAKU Vouliagmeni BEREKET Glyfada BRACHERA Monastiraki BYZANTINE RESTAURANT Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki CAFE BOHEME Kolonaki Common Secret Kifissia DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka DORIS Monastiraki FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KITRINO PODILATO Gazi KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri MAGEMENOS AVLOS Pangrati MALABAR Vouliagmeni Mauzac Kifissia MEIDANIS Monastiraki NICE N EASY Kolonaki OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri Olio by Portofino Ag. Paraskevi PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki PSARAKI Vouliagmeni RATKA Kolonaki TA KIOUPIA Kolonaki TO KOUTI Monastiraki ZEPHYROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi Santa Fe Halandri

MEZEDES AND OUZO ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka

MULTI ETHNIC Altamira Kolonaki

PERSIAN ANAHITA Halandri

POLYNESIAN KONA KAI Syngrou

PUB RESTAURANTS BAYERN BIERHAUS MICROBREWERY Glyfada MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

RETRO Aneton Maroussi

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni SIGALAS-BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki Tike Kifissia

SCANDINAVIAN SAFKA Kerameikos

SPANISH JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada SALERO Exarhia

TAVERNAS FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma SKOUFIAS Exarhia VLASSIS Hilton

THAI ROYAL THAI Kifissia TAMARIND Metaxurgeio

VEGETARIAN Avocado Syntagma

WINE BARS FABRICA DE VINO Exarhia HETEROCLITO Syntagma L’Enoteca Halandri OINOSCENT Syntagma Whispers of wine Maroussi

insider athens | July & August 2013 59

Insider guide Gifts Greece is for Lovers

EAT Aglio Olio & Peperonicino

Ginger Ale Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Vox

Mani Mani Falirou 10. Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

SHOP Syllektiko Paleopolio Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Vinyl Microstore

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

EAT Fabrica de Vino

Beles 1 and Androutsou Tel: 210.924.7655 Raisin bread, almond shortbread, yummy cookies & tasty loaves

Thalatta

Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Yesterday's Bread

Asimenia Bakery

Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Circus Bar

Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

Mani Mani

Prosopa

Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

DRINK

Exarhia

Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Yantes

Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811, One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Gazi

Karyatidon 13A Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

Central Athens

EAT Bollywood Gazi Elasidon 29 & Konstantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210.345.0041 Indian cuisine in an industrial setting

Butcher’s Shop Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Kohenoor Triptolemou 41, Tel:210.345.5762 Indian authentic specialties in a neat setting

Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Em. Benaki 3, Tel : 210.321.4148 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment

Kavouras

Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Skoufias Lontou 4, Tel: 210.382.8206 Exceptional entrees you are unlikely to find elsewhere

60 insider athens | July & August 2013

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Almaz Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Dirty Ginger Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails, meat dishes and “hot” finger food

Gazarte Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events

Gasoline Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights

Plastiko Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.3729 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood

Tapas Bar Triptolemou 44, Tel: 210.347.1844 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain

Andronikou & Tzaferi 11 Tel: 210.342.2380 Mega club ideal for all-night dancing

Emanouil Benaki 45, Tel: 210.330.0010 A great meal in an uplifting environment

Salero

DRINK

Villa Mercedes

Fasoli

Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

Matilde Pizza Bar Konstantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210 3411878 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cozy setting

Kitrino Podilato Keramikou 116, Tel: 210.346.5830 Mediterranean cuisine in a modern industrial atmosphere

Hilton

SHOP

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Acropolis

Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

EAT Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantine Restaurant

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Degustation menu at just 40 â&#x201A;Ź

Varoulko

Milos Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours. Guaranteed value for money

Kanari 21, Tel: 210.360.4481 Casual clothing and gifts for kids

Safka

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Vezene Vrasida 11, Tel: 210723002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef

Vlassis Neandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

Kolonaki

Megalou Alexandrou 80-82, Tel: 210 524 3340 Scandinavian cuisine

Milos Garden

Frattina

Pireos 80, Tel: 210.522.8400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

SHOP Antiques Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9 Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

Jack in the Box

Marie Chantal Boutique Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Mouyer Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Fashion Atelier Loukia

Cosmetics

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Apivita

Bespoke Athens

Beauty &

Solonos 26 Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

DRINK Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Irakleitou 15, Tel: 210.364.5428 Beautifully packaged skincare and homespa products

CHILL

Children

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club

Bambineria

Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools

Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

DKNY Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Elina Lebessi Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

Ermenegildo Zegna Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Free Shop Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

Giorgio Armani Koumbari 8, Tel: 210.361.3603 Suit- and dress-maker to the stars

Hugo Boss Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.360.0516 Smart separates for a work wardrobe

Kalogirou Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei

Harnn Shop

Galaxy Bar

Central Athens

Kanari 5, Tel: 210.339.2597 Designer togs for tots

Olive Tree Spa

Kerameikos

Chatzigiani Mexi 4, Tel: 210.724.4425 Bespoke Athens

EAT 1 Michelin star

Carouzos

Funky Gourmet

Kanari 12, Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands

Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine in art deco interior

Coach

Athiri

Tsakalof 28, Tel: 210.362.5669 Leather totes and luggage in easy American style

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Deux Hommes Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns. www.deuxhommes.gr

Awarded Toque Aleria dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Or in 2013 Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Aleria

Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20,

insider athens | July & August 2013 61

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Central Athens

Lacoste

Thalassa Collection

La Fenetre

Fresh

Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

Parousiasi

Al Milanese

Lanvin Iraklitou 9 Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Linea Piu Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Vlassis Holevas Anagnostopoulou 19 Tel: 210.361.6167 Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Flowers

Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

Restaurants Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.729.4111 Authentic Italian cuisine for the discerning

Altamira

Jewellery

Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210.361.4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Apriati

Altro

Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Haritos 39, Tel: 210.724.2717 Tiny funky restaurant that specializes in Italian food

Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone

Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Observatory Attitudes

Kylix

Fanourakis

Cafe Boheme

Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Wine Garage

Folli Follie

Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Luisa Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Paul & Shark Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Fleria Patriarchou Ioakim 35 Tel: 210.722.9697

Food & Wine Cava Anthidis

Gadgets Octopus Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

Gifts

Eclipse

Benaki Museum Gift Shop

Preview Patriarchou Ioakim 19 Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

Rere Papa Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045 Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exhibits

Liana Vourakis Pindarou 42, Tel. 2103617705

Home Christofle Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

62 insider athens | July & August 2013

Liana Vourakis Anagnostopoulou 26-8 Tel: 210.362.2564 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Oxette Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Ozzi Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

Van Cleef & Arpels Voucourestiou 1, Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

Boschetto

Capanna Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare

Cinco Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.360 Stylish, lively tapas bar with great cocktails

Dakos Tsakalof 6, Tel: 210.894.7040 New-age Cretan specialties

Eclipse (Bar restaurant) Alopekis 21, Tel: 210 364 1545 Fabulous cocktails and creative Mediterranean cuisine by Yiannis Baxevannis

Filipou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

Frame

Bakeries & Patisseries

St George Lycabettus Hotel Dinokratous, Tel: 210.721.4368 Exotic cuisine in the heart of Athens

Cake

Freud Oriental

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Xenokratous 21, Tel: 210.729.9595 Sushi in a cool setting

EAT

Central Athens

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Ouzadiko

TGI Friday’s

Skoufaki

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq. Tel: 210.623.3945 American restaurant with real steak and barbecue sauce for casual dining!

Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar

Papadakis Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

For Creative Cuisine

Ten Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.321.7836 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Cafés Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.243.3902 Long-established people-watching hangout

www.lachocolatiere.gr

Peros

Inbi Iraklitou 21, Tel: 210.339.2090 Sushi fusion

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Jackson Hall

Tea

Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings

To Tsai

Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

P-BOX Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210 7298556, Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed by Theodore Zoumboulakis

Prytaneion Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Scala Vinoteca Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Le Grand Balcon

Showroom

L'Abreuvoir

St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Nice n Easy

Square Sushi

Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music

Deinokratous 65, Tel: 210.725.5236 High-quality sushi & other Japanese favourites

Ta Kioupia

Orizontes Lycavyttou

Dinokratous & An Polemou 22 Tel: 210.740.0150 Superb set menu of Greek and Continental classics with refined touches

Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Central

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.724.5938 The place to see & be seen while sipping on coffee or cocktails

City Charitos 43, Tel.: 210.722.8910 Modern aesthetics, mutli-culti crowd and soulful music

Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Rosebud Omirou 60 & Skoufa 40, Tel.: 210.339.2370 All day hang-out with music ranging from jazz to famous soundtracks

Mavili Sq

Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Kalamaki Kolonaki

DRINK Balthazar Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Baraonda Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Mavili sq. Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

Flower Dorileou 2, Mavili sq. Tel: 210.643.2111, Fun, funky and affordable watering hole

MISSED THESE GREAT ISSUES? 35.000 readers get the best of Greece each month. Subscribe to Insider and never miss another issue! send us an e-mail at: subscriptions@insider-magazine.gr or give us a call at: 210.729.8634

insider athens | July & August 2013 63

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Central Athens Taf

Avissynias 3, Tel: 210.321.7202 Traditional Greek recipes with a European twist overlooking the Acropolis & Observatory

Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions

Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

Doris Praxitelous 30, Tel: 210.323.2671 Hearty stews & pasta dishes at reasonable prices

Meïdanis Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Fuga

Melilotos

EAT

Tamarind

Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere

St’Astra Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

To Parko Eleftherias

Metaxurgeio

Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784 Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park

Thai Kitchen, Address: Kerameikou 51, Tel: 210.522.5945

Monastiraki

Fuga

SHOP

Archeon Gefsis Kodratou 22, Tel: 210.523.9661 Ancient Greek cuisine makes a unique comeback after 25 centuries

Antiques Darousos

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Normanou 7 Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7 Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

Food & Wine

Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern and industrial setting. New hot spot for the trendy

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Souvlaki Bar Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210 5150550

Thanassis Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

DRINK

Bahar

Miaouli 2-4., Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis

Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

360 Cocktail Bar

new

Ifestou 2, Tel: 21.321.0006

A for Athens

Loukoumi Bar

Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Plateia Avissinias 3, An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views

EAT

Six Dogs

Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

64 insider athens | July & August 2013

Athinaikon Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Ideal Restaurant Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in oldworld decor

Trata

SHOP BEAUTY & COSMETICS Korres Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

EAT Cucina Povera Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Fatsio

To Kouti

Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Miran Polly Maggoo

Savvas Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Arapian

EAT

Kalamiotou 19, Tel.: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients

EAT

Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531 Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens

Pangrati

Café Avyssinias

Omonia

Brachera

Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.

Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Karavitis Arktinou & Pausaniou Tel: 210.721.5155 Classic Greek cuisine in a dining room lined with wine casks

Magemenos Avlos Amynta 4, Tel: 210.722.3195 Mediterranean fare, welcoming decor & generous servings

Spondi

2 Michelin star

s Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Central Athens

Antique stores Maritinos Pandrosou 50 Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

SHOP Fashion Christoforos Kotentos Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

Home Notoshome

Food & wine Mesogaia Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Gifts Amorgos Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home décor superstore

EAT

2 Mazi Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

Electra Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Mono Resturant

new

Venizelou Paleologou 4, Tel: 210.322.6711 Unpretentious gourmet cuisine

Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

Antiques Antiqua Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

MAC

Theatrou & Sokratous Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Gostijo Aisopou 10 street, Tel: 210 32 33 825 Kosher menu and mediterranean “repertoire”

Kouzina Cine-Psirri Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music

Nara Nara Karaiskaki 26, Tel: 210.331.2091 Lebanese food & dancing

Ochre & Brown Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

DRINK

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Gadgets Public

Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Gifts

Books

Argalios

Eleftheroudakis

Filellinon 7, Tel: 210.322.2659 Hand-woven fabrics & souvenirs since 1940

Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Department Stores

Kori

Attica

Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Psarros 1917

Fokas

Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

Stock House & Travel

Home

Ermou 45, Tel: 210.324.7732 Outlet store featuring brands from Parousiasi, Cook Shop & Bag Stories

Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Fashion - Men’s

Diogenous 4, Tel: 210.322.0666 One of the few remaining tavernas preserving 1940s Athens

Cantina Social

Try the Polish beers

Leokoriou 8, Tel: 210.325.1668 Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing.

Scholarheio

Adrianou 68 & Eolou Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

Bag Stories

Beauty & Cosmetics

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Ydria

Accessories

Lepeniotou & Ivis 1 Tel: 210.323.3670 Authentic Italian cuisine in a friendly environment

Platanos

Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

SHOP

Cantuccio

Diporto

EAT

Syntagma

SHOP

Psyrri

Plaka

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Dude Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”

Soul Evripidou 65, Tel: 210.331.0907 Show off your groovy disco moves

Pagoni

Jewellery

Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Apriati Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Flowers Dromoloulouda Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

Bulgari

Food & Wine

Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Aristokratikon

Cartier

Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

insider athens | July & August 2013 65

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! Shoes

Parliament

Spiliopoulos

Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens Akadimias 30, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

Marathianakis

Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Folli Follie Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Gofas Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces

Omega Omega, the brand of James Bond and Nicole Kidman, has its own elegant boutique on Voukourestiou showcasing the brand’s collections Voukourestiou 2, Tel: 210.322.7682

EAT Avocado

Dosirak Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Furin Kazan Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

GB Corner

Eat Club

New: Akrotiri Mikro, Vas. Georgiou B’ 5, Agios Kosmas Classic: Baraonda, Tsoha 43, Athens Alternative: Gazarte, Voutadon 32- 34, Gazi

66 insider athens | July & August 2013

DRINK

Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.363.8525 Excellent dishes accompany the extensive list of international wines

Stadiou 7, Tel: 210.323.4996 A mix of Asian cuisines in elegant surroundings

Alternative: Vezene, Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef, Vrasida 11, Athens

Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements

Cellier Le Bistrot

Far East

Classic: GB Roof Garden Restaurant, elegant environment, tranquil atmosphere and breathtaking views of the Acropolis

Tzitzikas and Mermigas

Bars, Clubs & Lounges

Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso www.zolotas.gr

New: Freud Oriental, Japanese cuisine, Xenokratous 21, Kolonaki

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Nikis 30, Tel: 210 3237878 Vegetarian restaurant

Zolotas

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:

Paul

Boutique

Explorer’s Lounge NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Heteroclito

new

Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards

Kalua Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

Frequent wine Voulis 44A Syntagma. tastings Oinoscent

Tel: 210.322.9374 Trendy winebar

Hotel Grand BretagneSyntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

CHILL

Indian Kitchen

Holmes Place

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210 3237720

Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Meatropoleos 3 Mitropoleos 3, Tel: 210 3241805 Modern greek grill restaurant

Noodle Bar Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Osterman Mediterranean dishes, promising cocktail list in a setting where minimalism meets retro Agias Eirinis Sq, Tel: 210.324.3331

GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments by E’SPA, Valmont & Algoane

The Palace Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.374.3590 Ideal for rejuvenation after a long flight or a hectic bout of shopping

Syngrou

Chopard

Central Athens

EAT Avenue Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100 French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux

Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210 923 6682 Traditional food with breathtaking Acropolis views

Kollias

Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210 940 8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

AiNikolas Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210 923 2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Kona Kai Athens Ledra Marriott, Syngrou Ave. 115, Tel: 210 930 0000 Polynesian, Teppanyaki and Sushi cuisine in an original luxury setting

DRINK

Hammam baths

Istioploikos

Ag. Asomaton 17 & Melidoni 1 Tel: 210.323.1073

Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

SOUTHERN ATHENS EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish

Café Zoe Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93 Tel: 210 920 6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays

Première Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210 920 6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Thissio

CHILL

EAT Indian Masala

Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084. Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

Tony Bonano Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

Vassilenas

Kirki

Ak. Koumoundourou 48 Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

Apostoplou Pavlou 31 Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

Kuzina Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

Etolikou 72 & Vitolion Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

Zefyros

Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14 Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

Katafigio Ak. Koumoundourou 4 Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Faliro

Michelin star chef

Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 2177071118, 2103316767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine by Nikos Karathanos with stunning views

Piraeus

Hytra

Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Da Bruno Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours and fresh pasta

Il Tinello

Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

Iskandar Amphitheas 6 & Poseidonos, Tel: 210.988.6474 Authentic Indian cuisine

Glyfada

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

SHOP Fashion Enny di Monaco Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Obervatory Attitudes

A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Jewellery ZerTeo Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Food & Wine Provence Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Kitchen Bar

CHILL

Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Comfort food overlooking the sea

Touch & Go

Le Petit Sommelier

Quick relief by expert masseurs Dousmani 15, Tel: 210.894.4734

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

EAT

DRINK

Kyprou 65A, Tel: 210.898.3167 Mexican flavours in a friendly setting

Big Apple South Posidonos 1, Tel: 210.948.5190 Casual cocktails in a modern atmosphere

Zinc “Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Zythos Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Amigos

Bayern Bierhaus Microbrewery Chr. Nezer 19, Tel: 210.894.4439 Authentic German cuisine

Beirut Beirut, Panagouli 52 & Faidras Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Bereket Mikras Asias & Lefkosias 36 Tel: 210.960.9337 Traditional dishes from Asia Minor

Jamon Pintxos Bar

new

Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 2108946089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy, cheerful atmosphere

To 25araki M. Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4112 Fresh seafood at reasonable prices

insider athens | July & August 2013 67

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill! Seiza

Lefkosias 42A, Tel: 210.963.85770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.968.0545 Cafe with a unique style & hip design

Meat Square (Grill) Lambrakis 63 & Ag. Nikolaou, Tel: 210 961 1160 Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Molly Malone's Zannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Voula

La Casa Di Giorgino

Sale Bianco

Tartare Panagouli 52, Tel: 210.968.0320 Quality French cuisine

Vincenzo Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Balux Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Bourbon Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2 Tel: 210.894.9995, Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

Liberty Fivis 17, Tel : 210.894.3856 A 20’s themed bar with excellent cocktail list

Cafes Chocolat Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Cosi Zisimopoulou 12, Tel: 210.894.5746 One of the first cafes to inspireGlyfada's coffee culture

Nest Café Bar

EAT Dream Grill V. Pavlou 78, Tel: 210.895.5110 Traditional recipes & authentic taste

Dulcis in Fundo

Live music

Vasileos Pavlou 99,Thur sday-Saturday Tel: 210.899.5480 A modern “rakadiko” serving Greek dishes. Live music Thursday - Saturday

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Il Segreto Bizaniou 3, Tel: 210.965.9526 Authentic Italian set on a beautiful terrace

CHILL Urban Yoga Center Leukados, 10 Tel: 213.025.3946, 6977040841 Release from urban stress

Lazaraki 45, Tel: 210.898.6035 An all-day hangout for locals & visitors

68 insider athens | July & August 2013

Urban Yoga Center

Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Elias Koukoutsi

Vouliagmeni

Markou Botsari 10, Tel: 210.898.6301 Authentic Italian cuisine with an interesting wine list

Southern & Northern Athens

EAT Baku

new

Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Baku, The Margi

Il Tramonto Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.8901794 Creative Italian cuisine with mind-blowing views of the Saronic Gulf

Ithaki Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Louizidis

Matsuhisa Athens Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510, Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

Psaraki

Malabar

Schara

The Margi Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160 Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience

Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Maistrali

Waffle House

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Al Bacio Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.0400 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Galazia Hytra The Westin Athens Apollonos 40, 210.890.2137 Michelin star culinary experience with gourmet and taverna options

Il Τramonto

Matsuhisa

Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Seafood served in an informal setting

Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr DRINK Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210.671.7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Almyra Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210.681.9109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden

Santa Fe Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210.685.9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Kitchen Bar

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10, Tel: 210.891.1100

NORTHERN ATHENS EAT

K. Varnali 6, Tel: 210.689.2015 Delightful gastronomic tour in a relaxing atmosphere

Meat Square Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210.683.1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Saipan

Da Vinci Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Nanninela

Argyropoulou 8, Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Halandri, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens' best table by far

Leof. Pendelis 85, Tel: 210.682.5017 Asian cuisine and sushi bar in luxury environment

Arion Spa

Aristokratikon

Bo Botrini’s

Golden Phoenix

CHILL

K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

1920 Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210.681.3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Varsos Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

EAT Acqua Azzurra Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Apla 135 Charilaou Trikoupi Tel: 210.620.3102 Chrysanthos Karamolegos creates refined Mediterranean dishes

Berdema Vas Amalias 20, Tel: 210.801.3853 Traditional dishes from Greece & Asia Minor

Kool Life

Common Secret Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Dos Hermanos Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Elaias Gi Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.62.00.005 The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Golden Phoenix

Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Psaroma

Olio by Portofino

Psomi & Alati

Ag. Ioannou 63, Tel: 210.639.1666, Mediterranean flavours in a chic interior

Rakokazano

Ichthyes

Irakliou 1, Tel: 210.689.5501 Quality Greek mezzes in a cosy simple environment

Jaipur Palace

EAT 30 something

new

Iroon Sq 8, Tel.: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere

Anahita Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes

Sokratous 23, Tel: 210 683 9348 Imaginative parade of seafood and fresh fish Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel.: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist

Kifissia

Halandri Ag.Paraskevi

Food & Wine

Apsendi

En Plo

Southern & Northern Athens

Cash Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Fashion

Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines

21 Kifissia

Kastelorizo

SHOP

Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport paraphernelia

Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Kool Life Bo Botrini’s

Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400 Lefteris Lazarou's cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli

insider athens | July & August 2013 69

Insider guide Shop, Eat, Drink & Chill!

Northern Athens

Mangiamo by Meat Square

Salumaio di Atene

Divine

Aneton

Ave. 5, Drossia. Tel: 210.800.4700 Open from Mondays to Friday from 3 pm to midnight and on weekends from 1pm to midnight

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous desserts

Kifissias 239, Tel: 201.801.0810 Chic lounge serving classic concoctions

Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Menta Café

El Taco Bueno

HarilaouTrikoupi 92 Tel: 210.623.2358 Simple yet discerning cuisine in a funky Greek taverna

Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50 Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience

Nui Gortinias 11, Tel: 210.801.3553 Gourmet mutli-Asian restaurant

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Piazza Mela Kifissias 238, Mela Shopping Centre Tel: 210.623.6596, Classic & traditional Italian dishes

Prytaneion Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Royal Thai Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Shogun Philadelpheos 2, Tel: 210.623.3622 Promises authentic Japanese cuisine for the truly discerning

Telemachos Barbeque Club Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Tike Harilaou Trikoupi 27, Tel: 210.808.4418 Watch chefs prepare Turkish kebabs and other treats before your eyes

Vardis Deligianni 66, Pentelikon Hotel Tel: 210.623.0650-6, Cornerstone of French cuisine in Greece

DRINK Boudoir Deligianni 50 & Georganta Tel: 210.801.8384, Massive club for dancing & sipping on signature cocktails

Chateau Ag. Dimitriou 9, Tel : 210.801.5830 The cool sets preferred bar with baroque décor and refined cuisine

Mauzac

70 insider athens | July & August 2013

Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

Maroussi

Meat Me

Semiramis Restaurant

SHOP Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

The Mall Athens

Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

EAT

Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must

Oinopathia Aghias Paraskevis 79 & Diogenous Tel: 210.685.5375, Great selection of wines with Greek and international cuisine

Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Altamira

Whispers of wine

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210 612 8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor

see & do Art galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psirri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Agalma Troyman, 11635 Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., 106 75 Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Badminton Theatre Olympiaka Akinita, Goudi 157 73, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thisseio, Tel: 210.341.3935 Beyond Art Gallery Haritos 10, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.9744 B&M Theoharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxourgio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, 10671 Athens, Greece Tel: 210 360 7598 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Str. Athens 10675, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Fizz Gallery Valaoritou 9c, Athens 10671 Greece, Tel: 210 360 7598 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens 10671, Tel: 210 364 0215 Gallery 7 Zalokosta 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.2050 Gialino Music Theatre Sigrou 143, N. Smirni, Athens Tel: 210 9316 101-4 Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st. 11471 Athens, Tel: 210 643 9466 Jill Yakas Spartis 16, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.2773 www.yakas.com K-Art Gallery Sina 54, 106 72, Athens, Greece Tel: 211 401 3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Tel: 210.642.6573 ww.gallerykourd.gr

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. Kastorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000. Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues.

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos. Tel: 210.321.0185. Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens. Tel: 210.923.1502 www.spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 www.history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue Tel: 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311 www.benaki.gr

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou Tel: 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 210.721.1027. Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. www.hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 www.frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 210.722.8321 www.cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio. Tel: 210-346.1981. www.herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni. Tel: 210.922.7260. www.lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. www.jewishmuseum.gr Keramikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552. Maria Callas Museum Technopolis, Pireos 100, Gazi, Tel: 210.346.1589 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50. Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens. Tel: 210.363.5953. www.nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street Tel: 210.924.1043, www.theacropolismuseum.gr

Just for kids

Tel: 210.322.9705

Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changingof-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

Museums

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Pallas Theatre Skoufa 77 & Staikou 2, Kolonaki Athens, Tel: 210 364 0783 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens 104 31, Tel: 210 322 1335 The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, 115 28 Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Tsatsis Project/ Artforum 12 Mitropoleos st. & Venizelou PC 54624 Thessaloniki, Tel: 231 025 7552 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, 105 52 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 331 9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Graphics & Editions Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Attractions & Sites

ORGANISED TOURS

Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, www.allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995. Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.5870, www.gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.22621 www.childrensartmuseum.gr

Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, www.summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

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partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS LEDRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

METROPOLITAN

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites. Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Kona Kai Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant and sports bar. Syngrou 115. Tel: 210.930.0000

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25. Makrigianni. Tel: 210.928.0100

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers. Syngrou 385. Tel: 210.947.1000

NEW

GRANDE BRETAGNE

NJV athens plaza

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma. Tel: 210.3273000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

Crowne plaza

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

Newly renovated, the former Holiday Inn Athens is at a very convenient location and attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50. Tel: 210.727.8000, www.cpathens.com

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18. Tel: 210.668.9000, www.hiathens.com

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93. Tel: 210.920.6000

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Athens Tel: 210 3352400 NOVOTEL

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine. Kallirois 32 & Petmeza. Tel: 210.921.5353 ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka. Tel: 210.337.0000 ATHENS HILTON

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri-Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Tel: 210.720.7000

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Royal Olympic

Holiday Suites

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4.Tel: 210.727.8000, www.holiday-suites.com

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., 11743 Athens, Greece. Tel. 210.928.8400, www.royalolympic.com

KEFALARI SUITES

SEMIRAMIS

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3333

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.4400

DIVANI CARAVEL

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46. Tel: 210.728.1000

The newly renovated Novotel is designed for natural living. Close to Omonoia square and the National Museum. Open plan bar and rooftop bar and restaurant and pool.4-6 Mikhail Voda Street Tel: 210.820.0700, www.novotel.com

partner hotels SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

TwentyOne

Fresh Hotel

COSTA NAVARINO The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000 ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kefalari-Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521. www.twentyone.gr

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka, Psirri and Monastiraki. Enjoy the hip Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous. Tel: 210.524.8511-6. Herodion

LIFE GALLERY

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, the Westin resort’s low-rise villa clusters use natural stone and local design elements to create a motif in perfect harmony with the virgin sandy beach and pristine hillside landscape. Its 445 deluxe rooms and suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.741.6000 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre. Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400

Located at the base of the Acropolis and a five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium barcoffee shop. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA

A CATEGORY

The Romanos Resort boasts of 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches sets the tone in each space, where the sparkling blue of the Mediterranean is the preferred hue.

Santorini

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

MYSTIQUE SANTORINI

In an elegant neoclassical building in Kefalari, this hotel has a restaurant, bar, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet and conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.623.3622-6 THE MARGI

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma and Monastiraki. Lysikratous street 9-11, Plaka. Tel: 210.325.9000, www.avahotel.gr

Within walking distance from all major archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma. Tel: 210.337.8000

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860 71114 VEDEMA, SANTORINI

PERISCOPE HOTEL

CORAL HOTEL

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Café Tabac Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and J-lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000. www.themargi.gr THE WESTIN ATHENS

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

The Coral’s 86 rooms and 2 suites offer all modern conveniences. Poseidonos Avenue 35, Paleo Faliron. Tel: 210.981.6441 amarilia hotel

Amarilia Hotel in Vouliagmeni is an excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool. Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni. Tel. 210 8990391, www.amarilia.gr

Designed for people who wish to be part of all that goes on in the city. 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.729.7200, www.periscope.gr

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori. Tel. 22860 81 796

SYROS

Philippos

VILLA SELENA

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are wellappointed and comfortable. Offers good value for money in the Acropolis area. Mitseon 3, Makrigianni. Tel: 210.922.3611-4

A luxurious five-star boutique hotel with suitably equipped rooms and suites to ensure a comfortable stay. The spacious terrace with a panoramic view is ideal for breakfast or drinks Tel. 22810 86007, www.villaselena.eu

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AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85. Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399 TCS M. Antipa 20 & 2 Prometheus, Tel: 210.976.7086

COMPUTER & CELL-PHONE RENTAL TrimTel Mobile Communications Michalakopoulou 41, Tel: 210.729.1964

Commercial Office spaces Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210-8764 876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES ACS Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Tel: 210.485.1100 Interattika Tel: 210.540.5400 Speedex Tel: 801.11.000.11 UPS Tel: 210.998.4000

Driving Schools in English Denis Kasimatis - Driving School Zografou, Papagou, Ilissia, Psychiko, Cholargos and Goudi - Tel: 210 778 3157 210 779 6981 Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Athens Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 Paleo Faliro - Tel: 210 988 8098 / 6997 722 777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 11, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210 574 4895 / 210 576 9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords Tel: 210 610 4494 Mourouzi 7, Athens Athens Relocation Centre Tel: 210 96 50 697, Zakynthou 10, Attica Movers Tel: 210 922 7221 19, Syngrou Ave Celebrity International Movers 102, Kapodistriou Ave, Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Tel: 210 800 3510, Ag. Saranta 32 Nea Erithrea Orphee Beinoglou Tel: 210 9466100 27th km Old National Road Athens-Korinth Location Elefsinia, GR-19200 Elefsina Omega Transport Thesi Kyrilos, 19300 Aspropyrgos Tel: 210 947 5500 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210 4599530

For Rent: Summer Cottages in Southern Peloponnese Two summer cottages, totally equipped, situated in a large olive grove leading up to a magnificent sandy beach. Large enough to accommodate two families. Contact Information: email: info@spark.gr or call: 6945778389

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TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Executive services, translation & interpreting All EU and Balkan languages - legal, technical and medical documents. Athens Tower B. Tel:Â 210.778.3698 www.executiveservices.gr Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi. Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Tel: 210.724.5541

Travel Agencies Travel Plan Tel: 210 333 3300 www.travelplan.gr Amphitrion Tel: 210 900 6000 Meg Alexandrou 7 & Karaiskaki, www.amphitrionholidays.gr TravelPlanet24 Tel: 211 107 9684 241, Syngrou Ave. & 2, Alikarnassou 171 22 Nea Smyrni, Athens www.travelplanet24.com Mid-east Travel Tel: 211 211 8888 Vas Sofias 105-107 / www.mideast.gr

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210 339 8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210 368 0900 British Council 17 Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210 369 2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210 3634117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210 3661000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213 017 8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission [28 Oktovriou] 47 Tel: 210 369 2333, 210 524 2646 ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14 Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59. Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Avenue 4, Tel: 210.725.7270

AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10. Tel: 210.363.2721 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3. Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4. Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Kifisias 317A Tel: 210.807.1020 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1212 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei. Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A. Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10. Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3. Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4. Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5. Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7. Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3. Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25. Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3. Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16. Tel: 210.674.1436 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7. Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2. Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri. Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens. Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Perikleous 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3593

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coastguard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri. Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31. Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9. (near Mavili Sq.). Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Tel: 210. 866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.5760-1 El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea. Tel: 210.956.5365 HYGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.7000 www.ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi. Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 168 Tourist Information Tel: 174

ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL specialized trauma unit. Nikis 2, Kifissia. Tel: 210.628.0000

TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus. Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62 Kifissia. Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Mesogeion 2, Athens Tower B’ Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia. Tel: 210.612.5001-2 heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou Tel:210.897.6276. www.heartline.gr

English media

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Paediatric Hospitals

Newspapers The International Herald Tribune carries the English version of Kathimerini Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, english programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm

Schools

Greek Language

SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychiko, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UNITED KINGDOM Ploutarchou 1. Tel: 210.727.2600 UNITED STATES Vas. Sofias 91. Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychiko. Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.

Emergencies

LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49. Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38. Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2.Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96.Tel: 210.778.5138 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14. Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei. Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7. Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi. Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6. Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychiko. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus. Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2. Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23. Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Rigillis 16A Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDIA ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychiko. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Mavili 10, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi. Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Tel: 210.726.6100

Health

useful information

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece 210 7015-242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210 3301455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210 6122706

insider athens | July & August 2013 75

useful information

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939 www.dei.gr

Weather Attica, Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640

Universities University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210 323 6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 9800

ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210 896 4531 American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210 725 9301 Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210 808 8008

International Kindergartens

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210 282 9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210 891 7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210 639 3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210 607 1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210 604 7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210 623 3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211 300 9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210 228 2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210 619 9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210 682 0566

76 insider athens | July & August 2013

English kindergartens The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210 682 7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210 961 8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210 965 3985 Kifissia Montessori School Ellinikon Stratou 5, Kifissia Tel: 210 620 7481 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210 801 2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210 967 1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210 895 9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210 965 6800

Money

Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

National Library Tzavella 25, Tel: 210 382 0657 Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Tel: 210 322 71 Nordic Library 7 Kavalotti St, Tel: 210 9249210 and 210 9249211

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

German kindergartens O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210 603 2527

Italian kindergartens Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210 202 0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210 600 3148 British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17 Tel: 210 363 3211/5 American Library Masalias 22 (4th floor) Tel: 210 363 8114 American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Tel: 210 723 6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychiko Tel: 210 671 4628 Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Tel: 210 362 9886 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Tel: 210 362 4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Tel: 210 362 0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Tel: 210 360 8111 Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Tel: 210 522 9294 EU Library Vas. Sophias 2, Tel: 210 724 3982

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.326.2626 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 EUROCARD Tel: 210.950.3673 MASTERCARD Tel: 00800.1188.70303, VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code. To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks. Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

Phone

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 L’Air des Contes 11, Cycladon, Glyka Nera, Tel : 210 600 3196 Le Castelet 18 Gortinias, Kifissia, Tel: 210 808 7760 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210 677 3803 Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210 801 1428

Libraires

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr

Post

French kindergartens Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

advertise in our listings, and reach thousands of customers email us at

ads@insider-magazine.gr

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr. 24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

Car rental

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service. Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.922.1211/1213 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

LIMOUSINES AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kakaya Tel: 210.323.4120

Public transport

Airport

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 British Airways Tel: 801.11.56000 BMI Tel: 210.960.0942 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Delta Tel: 210.331.1673-6 Easy Jet Tel: 210.353.0300 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.960.56.08 Iberia Tel: 210.353.6004 Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 210.966.6666 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210 3220104-5 Turkish Tel: 210.353.7280-2

Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport

X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center. X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals. X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express. Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station. Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €5 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min). For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro.gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Egaleo-

Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm. The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about €20 to Syntagma Square, €25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies. Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260. For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

getting around Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands:

Gates G & E

Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens. Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www.superfast.com Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel:801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.0330 Nava Yachts Loudovikou Sq. 6, Piraeus. Tel: 210.417.7728 Northstar Poseidonos 54, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula. Tel: 210.895.2212 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos. Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki. Tel: 210.985.0122-8

insider athens | July & August 2013 77

sales points For central Athens points, see i on map EASTERN SUBURBS Gerakas: Mini Market Milionis: 131, Marathonos Avenue Pallini: Bookshop Bouzas: 63, Marathonos Street Peania: Bookshop Tangopoulos: Agias Triados Street

NORTHERN SUBURBS AG.PARASKEVI: Mini Market Avarakis: 3, Themistokleous Street, Kiosk Theodoropoulos: 8, Polytechniou Street DIONYSSOS: Kiosk Michail: 4, Mitropolitou Kydonion Street EKALI: Kiosk Kyrpoglou: Vassileos Pavlou Square FILOTHEI: Kiosk Roupa: Drossopoulou Square, Super Market Kyriakopoulos: 11, M.Renieri Street, Mini Market Plati: 27, V.Georgiou Street HALANDRI: Mini Market Kyriakou: 3, Lykourgou Street, Kiosk Drizos: V. Konstantinou & V.Georgiou Street, Bookshop Evripidis: 11, V.Konstantinou Street, Mini Market Bakatsia: 46, Pendelis Avenue, Bookshop Vivliostyl: 34, Olympou Street, Mini Market Tsakiri: 76, Ag.Antoniou Street HOLARGOS: Kiosk Bekiaris: 212, Messogion Aveue, Kiosk Tambouridis: 256, Messogion Avenue KEFALARI: Kiosk Glentzis: Patr.Maximou & Apergi Square KIFISSIA: Kiosk Karadouman: 36-38, Kyriazi Street, Bookshop Gioggaras: 34, Elaion Street, Kiosk Koutsodimou: 308, Kifissias Avenue MAROUSSI: Tobacco & Gifts Tsitsilonis: 41-43, Kifissias Avenue, Tobacco & Gifts Raptis: 64, Kifissias Street, Kiosk Stefanopoulos: 46, Kifissias Street, Mini Market Kitsios: 43, Grammoou & Dionyssou Street MELISSIA: Kiosk Manikas: 75, Dimokratias Avenue, Mini Market Koufopandelis: 28, Pigis Street NEA ERYTHREA: Kiosk Anastassopoulos: 142, Harilaou Trikoupi Street, Bookshop Giannaki: 169, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street, Newsstand: 20 klm National Road Athens-Lamia, Kiosk Konidakis: Thisseos Avenue & Papadaki, Kiosk Kallergis: 130, Tatoiou Street NEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Katichidis: E.Makariou & Michalakopoulou Street, Kiosk Doukas: 44, Diamantidou Street, Kiosk Gionis: 25, Chr.Smyrnis & Ag.Georgiou Street PAPAGOU: Mini Market Papavassiliou: 16, Ellispontou Street

PALEO PSYCHIKO: Kiosk Kyriakou: Solomou Square, Kiosk Gialama: Efkalypton Square, Kiosk Polydoros: Kifissias & Ag.Dimitriou Street, Kiosk Kalogeropoulos: V. GeorgiouSquare, Kiosk Kontabasis: 2, Amaryllidos & V. Pavlou Street, Kiosk Kalfagian: V. Georgiou B’ 11 POLITIA: Kiosk Vovlas: Politia Square VRILISSIA: Kiosk Theodoropoulou: 5, Analypsi Square, Kiosk Aggelopoulos: Pendelis Avenue & Omirou, Bookshop Karystinaiou: 69, Alefiou Street

SOUTHERN SUBURBS GLYFADA: Kiosk Tamourantzis: 3, Metaxa & Maragou Street, Kiosk Tsakanikas: 3, Lambraki Street, Kiosk Mavraki: Pandoras & Ioanni Metaxa, Kiosk Adamopoulos: 20, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Papadakou: 7, Ioanni Metaxa Street, Kiosk Haikal: 1, Ioanni Metaxa & Fivis Street, Kiosk Bolota: Gounari & Iraklitou Street, Kiosk Bellou: 5, Saki Karagiorga Street, Mini Market Agiokatsikos: 24, Ilias Street HELLINIKO: NewsStand: 43-47, Vouliagmenis Avenue ILIOUPOLIS: Super Market Kokossis: 5, Glastonos Street LAGONISI: Kiosk Vassiliadis: 37,5 klm Athinon-Souniou Avenue NEA SMYRNI: Kiosk Manoussos: 28, Eleftheriou Venizelou Street VARKIZA: Kiosk Paraskevopoulou: Varkiza Square VOULA: Kiosk Leontopoulos: 12, Sokratous Street, Mini Market Pournara: 33, Pringipos Petrou Street, Kiosk Christopoulou: V. Pavlou & Ag. Ioanni Street VOULIAGMENI: Kiosk Andrioti: Armonias Square, Kiosk Chryssikos: 1, Ermou Street, Kiosk Kylitis: 14, Thisseos Street PALEO FALIRO: Kiosk Kombogianni: 1, Ag. Alexandrou Street, Kiosk Kapetanou: 24, Achilleos Street, Mini Market Nikouli: 9, Pliadon Street, Tobacco & Gifts Berekos: 1, Possidnos Avenue & Moraitini Street PIRAEUS: Hand Delivery Telstar: 57, Akti Miaouli, Tourist Chop Siatras: 46, Akti Koumoundourou Street, Kiosk Samarogiannis: 7, Merarhias B’Street, Kiosk Siaho: Akti Moutsopoulou (Kanari Square), Kiosk Kentros: 73, Iroon Polytechniou Street, Kiosk Fotis: 1, Loudovikou Street, Kiosk Spalas: 111, Karaiskou Street, Newsstand: Railway Station Loudovikou Square

www.mysephora.gr

For central Athens stores, see on map ASPROPIRGOS Filis 100 & Bouboulinas, Tel: 210.558.0989 ERMOU Ermou 24 Tel: 210. 331.3167 & 325.7744 KALLITHEA Thisseos & Davaki, Tel: 210.956.5959 - 956.5446 KIFISSIA Kassaveti 6, Tel: 210.623.1741 & 623.1742 KORYDALLOS Taxiarhon 110A, Tel: 210.569.5270 569.5998 THE MALL, Notios Paradromos Attikis Odou, Tel: 210.630.0125 & 630.0126 AVENUE Kifissias 41-45, Tel: 210.610.9739 & 610.9740

78 insider athens | July & August 2013

GOLDEN HALL Kifissias Av. 37A & Sp. Louis, Tel: 210.683.7343 PANGRATI Ymittou 110 & Hremonidou, Tel: 210.751.8005 GLYFADA A. Metaxa 33-35, Tel: 210. 894.3378 & 894.5884 KOLONAKI Milioni 2, Tel: 210. 361.2666 & 362.9925 NEA MAKRI Marathonos Av. 117, Tel: 229.409.9661 PERISTERI Ethnikis Antistaseos 12, Tel: 210. 571.0755 PETROU RALLI Petrou Ralli 97, Tel: 210. 569.6596 & 569.7316 PIKERMI 21oklm. Marathonos Av., Tel: 210. 603.9987 PSYCHIKO Kifissias 210, Tel: 210. 677.5527 & 674.0178 VRILISSIA Pentelis Av. 72, Tel: 210. 810.1971 & 810.1972

city map

Map courtesy of Emvelia Publications

insider athens | July & August 2013 79

Greek summer: beach paraphernalia Life is a beach. Whether it is a sandy or pebbled one, you need a few beach accessories to make it come alive. What distinguishes a Greek beach from any other? The sound of rackets, of dice being passionately flung around a backgammon board and of the tinkling of ice cubes into a chilled glass of ouzo. Other beach-musts include the frappe, whirring hand-fans and mats. To the backdrop of childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s joyous shrieks and their watered down sand-castles, the sea beckons. Plunge right in.

80 insider athens | July & August 2013

Photos: Marie-IrĂ¨ne Moschona

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