Athens Insider Summer 2018 no 139 by Insider Publications

the city magazine of

Summer Daze

July Aug SeptΕ2018 Year 17 #139 ISSN 1790-3114 EUR 4,50

Arts & Events • People • Culture • Travel • Food & Drink

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publisher’s note O

ften the things that seem to us the most beautiful and rare are those that remain true over time, that endure. This doesn’t mean that they don’t change or evolve, just that they feel authentic and honest. Perhaps because it is a quality that many of us seek in our travels: places that are unspoiled and yet very much themselves. Places that retain their luxury by valuing simplicity over shine. This issue is replete with examples of that quest for the unsullied, whether of a simpler Greece, ‘unspoiled by mass tourism’ expertly captured through Joan Leigh Fermor’s and Robert McCabe’s compelling black and white photographs as indeed, through the mathematical beauty of Costas Spathis’ drone photography. It is explored in articles by travellers seeking the ‘real’ experience at the bottom of a cloudy raki glass in Amorgos, or in the guileless charms of Samos or the savage, raw beauty of Vouliagmeni’s jagged hillside. Authenticity has become the new byword: the goal and measure of travel. It is a theme we revisit in Matt Stanley’s book set in Greece, A Collar for Cerberus. Countering German philosopher Schopenhauer’s bleak belief that ‘life does not hold any intrinsic meaning, nor should we look to the world to make us happy’, the protagonist in Stanley’s book uses his travels around Greece as ‘an excuse to seek answers to fundamental existential issues: an exploration of how we live, the decisions we make and what really matters to us.’ While Greek summers might be all about carefree insouciance, it is that idea of introspective travel that is gaining traction among millennial travellers who zealously seek to redefine the definition of a holiday. Apparently, the trend is not to slip away to re-charge our batteries on a simple sun n’ sea holiday, now its all about transformative itineraries to help us to learn, grow and change. And perhaps, come back a different, better person. That notion seems to seep into art too. Konstantin Kakanias goes beyond the ‘art for art’s sake’ philosophy to use his whimsical illustrations as a platform to make a statement about something dear to him. It seems only fitting that an issue kicking off the summer should be rife with stories about transformation, about spotlighting people, places, designs, and art of all mediums and genres that might be essential to expanding and challenging our idea of what beauty is. • Kalo Kalokairi!

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Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Editor Amanda Dardanis Client Relations Krysta Foteinopoulou Graphic Design Ioanna Milopoulou Cover design Daniel Egnéus Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Social Media Caroline Pateras Events Co-ordinator Anita Robert Interns Nicole Sadek, Maya Abuali, Tamsin Paternoster, Defne Çevik, Cassandre Sevestre Photos Maria-Irene Moschonas, Shutterstock, Isabelle Merminod, Christopher Bagley, Defne Çevik, Costas Spathis, Manisha Glaentzer-Tawadey Contributors in this Issue Amanda Dardanis, Richard Pine, John Zervos, Isabelle Merminod, Tim Baster, Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou, Vicky Nikolaidou Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Printing Grafima Website and Digital Marketing Webolution Subscriptions Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 15, Abroad € 30 Both magazines in Greece € 40, Abroad € 90 (incl. VAT and postage) Also published in Chinese (Mandarin), Russian and Turkish.

contributors Amanda Dardanis

A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph.

John Zervos

John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes and tells the story of Athens as few do.

Richard Pine

Richard Pine is Director of the Durrell Library of Corfu (where he lives) and author of many books, including Lawrence Durrell: The Mindscape, Greece Through Irish Eyes, and The Disappointed Bridge: Ireland and PostColonial Literature. He is a columnist for The Irish Times and Kathimerini and an obituarist for The Guardian.

Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou

Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou is a freelance journalist and editor. She is currently working with Attikes Ekdoseis and has written for publications ranging from the Athens News (where she was fashion editor and animal welfare correspondent for seven years) to Marie Claire Australia and the South China Morning Post. Between 2008 and 2010, she was editor of Athens Insider magazine. She is a founding member of the charity www.ninelivesgreece.com helping street cats in Athens.

Ioanna Milopoulou

An award-winning graphic designer, Ioanna has worked at major advertising agencies and managed numerous communication and advertising projects, from branding to launch campaigns to media planning for major clients. A keen traveller, she has studied in Belgium, the Netherlands and the UK and has worked on humanitarian missions in Ghana and Kenya for ActionAid. Coffee, cigarettes and her sketchbook are her best friends.

Nicole Sadek

Nicole Sadek is a student at Emory University, studying International Relations of the Middle East and Creative Writing, with an emphasis in journalism. She is the managing editor of Emory’s independent newspaper The Emory Wheel and simultaneously serves as a copywriting intern for Pinnacle View, a digital marketing agency.

Maya Abuali

A Palestinian born and raised in Hong Kong, Maya Abuali is a Classics major at McGill University. Fluent in English, Arabic and Mandarin, she interns as a writer and Arabic translator for Athens Insider. A former intern of the Wall Street Journal Asia Newsroom, the Hong Kong Youth Arts Foundation and a professional actor for Pearson Education and more, Maya hopes to pursue journalism in the future.

Tamsin Paternoster

Originally from London, Tamsin Paternoster studies Anthropology at University College London. Tamsin has written for The Ecologist and various other online forums and has sat on the Youth Panel for Asia House in London for their literary festival. Having lived in Hong Kong, Athens and London, Tamsin is interested in cross-cultural communication and how this relates to journalism. She is interning at Athens Insider as a writer and digital marketing assistant.

Defne Çevik

A Third Culture Kid born in Switzerland, raised in Turkey, Italy and the United States, Defne Çevik currently studies Psychology with a minor in Media and Visual Arts at Koç University in Istanbul. She is passionate about capturing a variety of subjects through different media and giving them new, relatable and interpretable perspectives.

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE THE QUINTESSENCE O F L U X U RY

One of the most emblematic, downtown Athens Hotels, with magical view of the Acropolis, facing Syntagma square, introduces its New, Luxurious Presidential Suite.

E. welcome@njvathensplaza.gr Τ. +30 2103352 400 F. +30 2103237 185 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ - Syntagma Square - 105 64 Athens, Greece www.njvathensplaza.gr

CULTURE Joan Leigh Fermor: More than A Muse_12 A compelling exhibition of Fermor’s places and people at the Benaki Museum. What to Watch at the Athens Festival this Summer_16 Insider’s top cultural picks from this year’s festival. A Literary Labour of Love_34 Matt Stanley’s introspective book, A Collar for Cerebrus, set in Greece, makes for a great summer read. Mosaic Identities & Curvy Culture_40 Richard Pine thinks laterally about the identity debate that has preoccupied much of Greece. Art on the Islands_70 A round-up of this summer’s cultural highlights.

PEOPLE Robert McCabe, testimony to a bygone era_14 A coffee-table book with McCabe’s telling black and white photographs celebrates a simpler Greece. Losing his marbles over the Marbles_20 Konstantin Kakanias uses sardonic humour to engage in a captivating debate on the Return of the Parthenon Marbles. Chloé Moglia, the Suspensionist_26 A photo essay on the graceful and intrepid Moglia vaulting above Syntagma. A Requiem for a Master Storyteller _32 John Zervos pays tribute to Philip Kerr, a master of crime fiction and the creator of Bernie Gunther. CITY LIFE Vouliagmeni’s Discreet Allure_46 Voulagmeni’s retains its raw charms alongside its reputation as a glam destination.

contents

TRAVEL Symmetric Escapes_44 Costas Spathis's distinctive style in aerial photography is replete with simple geometries. Amorgos, where the Big Blue legend lives on_56 For a throwback to a monastic way of living – and some potent raki – Amorgos promises a Big Blue escape. An Island to Call Your Own …_58 This exceedingly beautiful island is a terrific value-formoney destination. 5 Holidays in Greece that Will Change You!_64 It’s all about innovative itineraries to grow and change, notes Amanda Dardanis. A Whiff of the Aegean_80 Edible Greek souvenirs that, with one bite, will bring you back to the Aegean. La vie en rosé_82 Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou defends the light and easy appeal of much-maligned pink wines. FOOD & DRINK The New Cool: Eight Super Designer Gelato Bars_84 Where to Dine in Athens … Right Now!_92 Cover Illustration by Daniel Egnéus

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Cinema Under the Stars_52 No better way to end a hot summer day than by watching your fave films at one of Athens’ open-air cinemas. Life’s a Beach_76 Vicky Nikolaidou’s hilarious take on Greek beach etiquette. Greek Beach Survival Kit_78 All you need to make your Greek beach experience come alive.

arts & events Compiled by Maya Abuali

Athens Twice Seen

WHAT: Presented by American photographer Richard W Moore, the exhibition “Athens Twice Seen” merges his own images taken in symbolic parts of the Greek capital with vintage photographs. Moore showcases two pictures of monuments or areas in Athens taken at least a century apart, constructing a puzzle that reveals the past interacting with the present. According to the photographer: “Twice-seen photographs” collapse the past and the present into the same frame. The twice-seen images follow a stream of ideas: observation and encounter, memory and amnesia.” The show will remain on display through July 7. It is open Mondays to Fridays from noon to 9 p.m. and Saturdays from 10.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. Admission is free of charge. WHEN: Until July 7 WHERE: Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias, Kolonaki , Tel. +30 210.368.0052, www.hau.gr

Greek Silent Masterpieces

WHAT: A streaming of two silent films that altered the course of Greek cinema history at the open-air Herod Atticus Theater. Presented by the Greek Festival and the Greek Film Archive, the films will be presented in a double bill at the theater. Orestis Laskos’s “Daphnis & Chloe” from 1931, the first film is based on the only known work of 2nd century AD Greek writer Longus, and well renowned as the first European film with a nude scene. The second film, “Astero”, is a pastoral romance from 1929 directed by Dimitris Gaziadis. The film was found by the archive languishing in storage with French subtitles. The event begins at 9p.m. and the screenings will feature original live music by composer Filippos Tsalachouris. Tickets start at 5 euros. WHEN: July 14 WHERE: Herod Atticus Theater, Dionysiou Areopagitou, Acropolis, Athens, Tel. +30 210.928.2900, www.greekfestival.gr

#CULTURE_what’s on

Dinosaur Exhibit

WHAT: An educational outdoor exhibition on dinosaurs and the Ice Age that was put together by experts from Thessaloniki’s Aristotle University. Presented by the Cultural Park in Keratea in the east of Athens, this exhibition entails a vast array of fascinating dinosaur models, as well as guided tours in Greek. Running all through the month of July, this enthralling educational exhibit costs 6 euros per person or 20 euros for two adults and two children on Sundays, and 4 and 12 euros respectively on all other days. WHEN: Until July 30 WHERE: Keratea Cultural Park, Lavriou Avenue, Tel. +30 229.904.2100

WHAT: Artist Eleni Papaioannou’s installation in the garden of the Epigraphic Museum explores the symbolic role of gardens as spaces of reflection. Inspired by Viktor Klemperer’s “The Language of the Third Reich: A Philologist’s Notebook,” Papaioannou examines the relationship between gardens and urban spaces through textual media. The exhibition features quotes from both Klemperer’s book as well as excerpts of current Greek and international press. The quotes, which are organized throughout the garden without context, are designed to challenge the viewer’s perceptions of place and time and encourage natural reflection. WHEN: Until July 15 WHERE: Epigraphic Museum, Tositsa 1, Athens, Tel. +30 210. 823.2950, www.odysseus.culture.gr athens insider

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The Philologist’s Garden

Scorpions

WHAT: German rock legends appear in Athens for one epic gig as part of their world tour “Once in a Lifetime.” It will be the first time that the iconic band, formed in 1965 and with worldwide album sales of 100 million, will perform for the first time in this ancient stadium with 45,000 seats. The evening will be inaugurated by the Athens Orchestra, presenting for the first time in Greece some of the biggest hits of the famous band with a symphonic sound. For the first time, too, audiences will have the opportunity to listen some of the Scorpions’ most famous songs with the participation of a choir of children. Tickets from €25, reservations on +30 210.723.4567 or on ticketservices.gr. WHEN: July 16 WHERE: Panathenaic Stadium, Leof. Vasileos Konstantinou, Athens, Tel. + 30 210.752.2984-6

24th Annual Kalamata International Dance Festival

WHAT: Greek and international dancers intend to transfix Kalamata and the Peloponnese this July. This festival of movement and rhythm will once again bring prominent Greek and international artists together in the city of Kalamata to perform and lead a series of movement workshops. This year’s festival will feature dances by Madrid’s contemporary company Compañía Sharon Fridman, French performer Olivier De Sagazan and more. WHEN: July 13 - 22 WHERE: Varying locations in Kalamata, www.kalamatadancefestival.gr

Matiz Meets Gabo Exhibition

WHAT: Matiz-Gabo: The Chroniclers of Macondo is an exhibition displaying the work of illustrious Colombian photographer Leo Matiz and the texts of eminent advocate for magical realism, Gabriel Garcia Marquez. Both the legendary photographer and literary icon were born in Aracataca. The exhibition consists of 40 of Matiz’ photographs, in combination with Marquez’ texts breathing life into the fictional town of Macondo. Opening hours are Thursdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Admission costs €5. WHEN: June 14-July 29 WHERE: Benaki Museum, 138 Pireos, Tavros, Tel. +30 210.345.3111, www.benaki.gr

#CULTURE_what’s on

George Condo at the Museum of Cycladic Art

WHAT: Encounter the fractured portraits and aggressive imagery that has made George Condo one of the most vital figurative sculptors in America at his first major solo exhibition in Greece. The showcase will include paintings, sculptures and drawings spanning his 40-year career, with a catalogue to be published on to mark the occasion. In the 19080s, Condo – who has described his work as “psychological Cubism” was instrumental in reviving figuration in American art, together with JeanMichel Basquiat and Keith Haring, and Jeff Koons. Condo observes, “There are characters that live within your mind and I want to bring them to light. If you think about how the mind as opposed to the eyes see people, that is the image I want to create.” Balancing between the beautiful and the grotesque, the mundane and the absurd, high art and commercial ‘pop’ art, Condo’s fresh artistic creations make of him one of the most inventive artists of his generation. Condo’s work is in the permanent collections of The Met and MoMA in New York, The Tate Gallery in London; Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris; the Deste Foundation for Contemporary Arts in Athens; the Moderna Museet in Stockholm and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam, amongst others. WHEN: June 8 – October WHERE: Museum of Cycladic Art Neophytou Douka 4, Tel. +30 210.722.8321, www.cycladic.gr

Costas Varotsos: The Sculpture Poet

WHAT: See the cutting edge steel and glass creations of the globally-hailed sculptor, Costas Varotsos, best known for his Athenian landmark ‘The Runner’. Curated by Takis Mavrotas, “Costas Varotsos: The Sculpture Poet” showcases new work by the acclaimed artist whose emblematic pieces have now taken root all over Europe and America. Entrance fee: €7, €4 (for students, for students from 12 to 18 years, for people over 65), free (for unemployed, for students up to 12 years old). WHEN: Until October 21 WHERE: B&M Theocharakis Foundation, Vasilissis Sofias & Merlin 1, Tel. +30 210.361.1206, www.thf.gr athens insider

Paul Chan in Athens

WHAT: The New Yorker once described him as a “deep-thinking American making art out of shadows”. Now, Athens audiences can experience head on the cerebral creations of Paul Chan that combine fashion with psychics when he presents a body of new and recent works – Odysseus and the Bathers - at the Museum of Cycladic Art from July 5. Chan’s arresting and visionary art usually concerns itself with liberating moving images from the confines of frames and this latest exhibition, too, will be comprised of kinetic sculptural works that fall under the umbrella of his “breathers” and “bathers” inventions. Each figure is composed of a fabric “body” designed by Chan and attached to specially modified fans. Chan then manipulates how the figures move by composing the internal architecture of the bodies to create different kinds of motion in three dimensions. WHEN: The exhibition will run from July 5 until October 14 WHERE: The Museum of Cycladic Art, Neophytou Douka 4 Tel. +30.210.722.8321-3, www.cycladic.gr

A Tribute to Leonard Cohen

WHAT: A magical night devoted to Leonard Cohen to be a memorable highlight of the Megaron’s marvelous summer line-up of outdoor performances in their Concert Hall Gardens. The Concert Hall Gardens are open to the public from 10am to sunset each day. The hope is that with their greenery, flowers and trees the gardens will attract people of all ages, who will find somewhere to relax and escape the demanding pace of the city and make the gardens a second home – one offering a wealth of cultural and educational activities organized by the Concert Hall. The first musical events staged in the gardens were enthusiastically welcomed by the public. Perhaps the most unforgettable occasion was the concert by the Vienna Philharmonic, conducted by Riccardo Muti. No fewer than 4,000 people, seated on benches or lying on the lawns, among the orange and carob trees and the acacias, under the Attic sky, enjoyed the concert relayed live on giant screens. The energetic Sugahspank trio will showcase the great poet and musician who, throughout his full life, was both a teacher and a student, and who touched many across the world with his meaningful music. The tribute concert has been scheduled on the day that Leonard Cohen would have turned 84. WHEN: Friday, September 21 at 8.30pm. WHERE: Megaron Concert Hall Gardens, Vass. Sophias & Kokkali. Tel. +30 210.728.2000, www.megaron.gr

Hadrian’s Legacy

WHAT: Hadrian and Athens: Conversing with an Ideal World is an illuminating exhibition about the famous Roman ruler’s immense enduring legacy in Greece, and how Hadrian the Emperor contributed to forging many of the cornerstones of Western culture. The display features 40 exhibits from the National Archeological Museum’s collections and marks 1,900 years since the beginning of Hadrian’s Principate in AD 117. Admission is €4. WHEN: Until November. WHERE: National Archeological Museum, Patission 44, Tel. +30 213.214.4800, www.namuseum.gr

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Joan Leigh Fermor: More than A Muse A compelling exhibition at the Benaki Museum pieces together a powerful portrait of Joan Leigh Fermor, long overshadowed by her singularly talented husband Paddy, as a talented professional photographer. The exhibition curates vivid vignettes from the places and people Joan loved.

Joan Leigh Fermor on Horseback

Nafplio

nited by art, Joan and Paddy Leigh Fermor found love in Greece. As they traveled across the country, Joan Leigh Fermor photographed the people and places she discovered before settling with her husband in a Peloponnesian home, in a house where Bruce Chatwin wrote The Songlines and later entrusted to the Benaki Museum. The exhibition, “Joan Leigh Fermor: Artist and Lover”, takes visitors on a photographic journey through the lives of the Fermors and offers a rare insight into the life of a brilliant, brainy beauty, whose reputation as a photographer, tabloid topic, society darling and sexual adventuress matched her husband’s own reputation every step of the way. WHEN: From May 23 WHERE: Benaki Museum 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave., Athens, Tel: +30 210.367.1000, www.benaki.gr

Patrick Leigh Fermor in Nafplion athens insider

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#CULTURE_whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on

Robert McCabeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Journey through time Delphi. 1963

#CULTURE_book

Nothing captures a Greece before the advent of mass tourism like Robert McCabe’s photographs of the country. McCabe travelled extensively through the Aegean between 1955 and 1957, capturing locals and pristine landscapes with his Rolleiflex. The result is a stunning collection of images depicting a Greece perhaps lost. Text by Tamsin Paternoster

“When I first set foot in the Aegean in 1954 I found villages that had no electricity, running water, telecommunications or cars, while in many cases the only connection to the mainland by sea was with caiques,” says McCabe. “People lived in perfect harmony with the natural environment and were very conscious of resource management. Things changed dramatically with the advent of mass tourism.” Capturing the islands over 60 years ago, McCabe’s photographs show women separating wheat by hand and girls in traditional dresses. Collected in a 248page book presented by the Archaeological Society of Athens, McCabe’s photographs are a dramatic indication of the major transformation that parts of Greece have faced in the last 60 years. The photos illustrate how life on the Greek islands between the 1950s and 60s, when McCabe was shooting, was not that much different to the way it was thousands of years ago. Taken before the restoration and devoid of the consequences of mass tourism that has recently and dramatically altered the landscape of modern Greece, McCabe’s photographs are a historical artefact as well as a visual pleasure.

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Charles McCabe, 1961

Robert McCabe Chronography: 180 years of the Archaeological Society of Athens, published by Kapon Editions, is priced at a discounted rate of €49.50. It is available online on kaponeditions.gr and at all leading bookstores in Greece.

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“For me, the most successful photographs represent a form of poetry… Just as a short poem can create a vivid emotional experience, so too can an image,” McCabe says. His photographs, arguably, do exactly that. Depicting islands immersed in their traditional culture and archaeological sites unchanged, his images are moving in their capacity to capture the pristine and often overlooked simplicity of humans living and working efficiently, in tune with their natural environment. Part of his work and a lifetime of fascination with Greece is being celebrated by the Archaeological Society of Athens for their 180th anniversary in a book published by Kapon Editions. The publication is a collection of photographs taken in the 1950s of major Greek Archaeological sites taken by Robert McCabe during his first two visits to Greece in 1954 and 1955.•

What to Watch at the Athens Festival this Summer Calexico Live at Acropolis

Active for the past 20 years, Calexico – named after a town in the Mexico-California borders and originally coming from Tucson, Arizona – have fans all over the world. An entirely new sub-genre, ‘desert noir,’ was coined to describe the band’s idiosyncratic style, a blend of traditional Latin music influences (mariachi, conjunto, cumbia, tejano), country, jazz and post-rock. The hugely popular band will perform at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus for the very first time, presenting some of their biggest hits (“Stray,” “Falling from the sky,” “Crystal Frontier,” “Missing,” “Splitter”), along with songs from their newest, justreleased album, The Threat that Keeps us, released in late January. WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 3 Galexico

Nana Mouskouri

Nana Mouskouri - I Will Tell You a Story Nana Mouskouri began her singing career in Greece over 60 years ago and went on to become a world-famous star. The artist has given over 10,000 performances at some of the most prestigious venues in the world, from the Paris Opera, the Royal Albert Hall and the Berlin Philharmonic to Lincoln Center (New York), the Sydney Opera and Teatro Monumental in Chile and even theatres and stages in towns and villages around the world. At Athens Festival 2018, the celebrated artist will perform some of her best-known songs, including “Chartino to fengaraki” and

international hits, such as “White Rose of Athens,” “Α force de prier,” “Au Cœur de septembre” and “Le temps des cerises.” Part of the proceeds will be donated to ELPIDA – Association of Friends of Children with Cancer. Mouskouri has been active in the organization since its inception in 1990. In 2017, she was named “Artist for ELPIDA.” The concert will be held under the auspices of H.E. the President of Hellenic Republic Mr. Prokopios Pavlopoulos. WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 5

#CULTURE_what’s on

Athens Open Air Film Festival The collaboration of Athens & Epidaurus Festival and Athens Open Air Film Festival has become an annual tradition. In 2018, the event will be part of Athens - UNESCO World Book Capital for 2018. Three films focusing on the relationship of cinema and literature will be screened at the Festival. The Garden of Peiraios 260 and other parts of Athens will be transformed into open-air theatres.

Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra - Zoi Tsokanou - Daniel Müller-Schott Works by Dvořák and Shostakovich The Thessaloniki State Symphony State Orchestra, which currently employs over 110 musicians, will give its first Athenian performance conducted by its new artistic director, the talented principal conductor Zoi Tsokanou, together with the accomplished German cellist Daniel Müller-Schott. Tsokanou has received several accolades at international competitions and has collaborated in recent years with numerous orchestras and operas all over Europe. Young Daniel Müller-Schott is widely considered one of the most talented cellists of his generation, having worked with several internationally acclaimed orchestras and conductors (Vladimir Ashkenazy, Charles Dutoit, Christoph Eschenbach, Kurt Masur, Sakari Oramo) and having several albums under his belt. Already at the age of 15 Müller-Schott stood out when he won first prize at the International Tchaikovsky Competition. He has been praised several times for his technique and has been proclaimed “a fearless player with technique to burn” (New York Times) and an artist who “plays with existential urgency” (Stuttgarter Nachrichten). The play list will include Dvořák’s Cello Concerto in B minor and Shostakovich’s popular, uplifting Symphony No. 5. WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 15 athens insider

Thessaloniki State Symphony Orchestra

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WHERE: Peiraios 260 and other Athens venues WHEN: July 7 - 20

Aqua Jazz Athens In collaboration with the Jazz and Mediterranean Music Lab of the Ionian University Jazz meets the traditional music and instruments of the Mediterranean in a three-day music event, hosted by Athens Festival in collaboration with the Jazz and Mediterranean Music Lab of the Ionian University. A meeting of traditional music styles of the Mediterranean (Iberian Peninsula, Adriatic Sea, Greece, Balkans, Eastern Mediterranean) in the form of concerts, collaborations, introduction of new musicians, jam sessions and workshops drawing on the universal language of jazz. The event will be split in three day zones. In the morning, participants will be able to attend workshops and classes on jazz and Mediterranean instruments. In the afternoon, discussions and presentations will be held. In the evening, it’s concert time.

Greek Film Archive - Dafnis and Chloe (1931), by Orestis Laskos Original music - conduction: Filippos Tsalahouris A screening of the early Greek film Dafnis and Chloe, restored by the Greek Film Archive, with original music by Filippos Tsalahouris. The plot revolves around a pastoral romance between the title characters. The original, silent version of the film was successfully screened abroad, in Poland, Romania, Germany and USA. Two years after the end of WWII, Laskos also released a sound version. Cinematographer Dimitris Meravidis made use of panchromatic film – its first ever use in a Greek film – to clearly define the different shades of grey. Filming took

WHERE: Athens Conservatoire, Basement WHEN: July 10, 11, 12 Bach meets Kennedy meets Gershwin Nigel Kennedy Discovered by the great Yehudi Menuhin, Nigel Kennedy is one of the top violinists in the world and the bestselling violinist in the history of music; his recording of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons alone sold over 3 million copies. For the last 30 years, Kennedy remains a one-of-a-kind performer. The artist has covered several musicians, ranging from classical composers to Jimi Hendrix, has collaborated with music legends (Sir Paul McCartney, Kate Bush, Robert Plant and The Who), and has performed with some of the leading orchestras in the world. Kennedy is adored by his fans for his original body of work, his political views and his live, often eccentric and unconventional appearances. The performance Bach meets Kennedy meets Gershwin demonstrates his tour de force, establishing a dialogue between Bach (Kennedy has often performed his pieces for violin) and Gershwin, a contemporary jazz classic. WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 17

Greek Film Archive

Nigel Kennedy

place entirely on location, on the island of Lesbos, with the exception of the famous swimming scene, which was shot at the Vouliagmeni Lake. The heroine appears naked, exuding raw sensuality. The scene is also notable for being the first explicitly nude scene in the history of European cinema. In 1969, Laskos shot a remake. Following research in Greece and abroad, the Greek Film Archive was able to restore the film’s original edition. The restoration was completed in 1992, under the guidance of the director himself, piecing the film together, frame by frame, as well as reconstructing the original title cards. WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 16

#CULTURE_what’s on

Ghosts by blindspot theatre group Ghosts by blindspot theatre group Based on Henrik Ibsen’s play blindspot theatre group was founded in 2009 by director Michalis Konstatatos and actress Yota Argyropoulou. The group aims to create a new language of aesthetics by weaving together different forms of art, including theatre, visual arts, cinema, music, and new technologies. The group has performed in Greece and abroad. Their performance One Person at a Time was selected by Marina Abramović for the exhibition “As One” at Benaki Museum. Michalis Konstantatos has also won several international accolades for

his short films Two Times Now and Only for Ever and his feature film Luton. The latest performance by the group, Hotel, was met with acclaim at the Berliner Festspiele. In Ghosts, blindspot attempts to bridge Ibsen’s world with contemporary reality. The final text will contain excerpts from Ibsen’s original play combined with new texts coming to life through audience participation during the research and rehearsal phase. WHERE: Peiraios 260 E WHEN: July 17-19

Carmen, by Georges Bizet Greek National Opera The most popular French opera of all time, a symbol of love and freedom, is back at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus in a Greek National Opera production, directed by the distinguished artistic director of the Göteborg Opera Stephen Langridge. Langridge’s Carmen, first presented at the Odeon in 2016, is a modern, sharp take on the opera, relevant to our times, set in contemporary Europe, a continent of closed borders and poverty. Aided by Giorgos Souglidis’ impressive costumes and sets, Giuseppe di Iorio’s otherworldly lighting, and Tomas Bergman’s atmospheric projections, Langridge creates a contemporary yet also timeless universe for Carmen’s iconic story.

Find more information on tickets and performances at www.greekfestival.gr

Carmen

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WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus WHEN: July 27, 28, 29, 31

Losing his marbles over the Marbles Konstantin Kakanias dons an activist hat for his new exhibition using whimsical drawings and ceramic tiles laced with sardonic humour to engage in one of the world’s most captivating cultural debates, the Return of the Parthenon Marbles. In conversation with Sudha Nair-Iliades.

Drawing from Kakanias’ exhibition’That’s mine Bitch. Do not Touch. Back Off.’

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n the few brief meetings I’ve had with Konstantin Kakanias, it’s always been frenzied, high-energy chatter. On the phone from LA, when he should’ve been justifiably jet-lagged, Konstantin peppers his animated answers with a monologue to his young puppy Ziggy who’d just stolen his shoe and scurried across the room. Mock indignation follows. Like his quirky characters, there is something real and endearing about Konstantin Kakanias. He’s affable. He calls back. And treats an interview with a local Athenian magazine as if it were a fashion glossy institution. None of the starry airs of a vaunted artist coveted by the fashion and art glitterati. His answers are energetic, provocative, tongue-in-cheek, luscious, colourful, layered. As someone who flits between the worlds of fashion and art amongst the beautiful people of LA (where he is based), Paris (that he calls home) and Athens (where he is from), Konstantin Kakanias’ art can best be described as an off-the-wall mix of illustration and caricature. Through the irreverently irrepressible Mrs. Tependris, his fashionista alterego, an art collector and high society doyenne who Kakanias uses as “a metaphor for the state of contemporary art and its superficial reception by the public,” he’s taken on fashion’s mighty elite – Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld and Karl Lagerfeld amongst others.

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A recent contributing editor for the New York Times style magazine T, his illustrations have been published in several newspapers and magazines including the LA Times, The New Yorker, Interview, Vogue - and Athens Insider’s inaugural cover in 2002! His drawings, paintings and sculptures have been exhibited in New York, Paris, Los Angeles, at the Basel Art Fair and the Armory Show and in his native Athens. A passionate ceramicist and chef at heart, Kakanias concedes resignedly, “The thing I love and hate the most is that I do too many things …and I have no one to tell me what to do, not even Mrs. Tependris.” In return, Kakanias has an impressive body of work to show for all that restlessness and versatility. After graduating from Studio Berçot in Paris, Kakanias quickly made the crossover from art to fashion by collaborating with some of the biggest names in fashion: Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Cartier and Dior; iconic brands such as Tiffany and Barney’s NY; a comic book collaboration with Diane von Fürstenberg Be The Wonder Woman You Can Be (DC Comics 2008); jewellery designs for Swarovski; and commissions for Frederic Malle’s fragrances, Nars cosmetics and swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. In THAT’S MINE, BITCH! DO NOT TOUCH. BACK OFF, that runs simultaneously at the Kalfayan and Rebecca Camhi Galleries, Kakanias takes on the monumental British Museum.

Beyond his innocuously glam, satirical sketches, Kakanias hopes to engage in a debate that has consumed him, and indeed, Greece and Britain. A call to right a 200-year-old wrong for the return of the Parthenon marbles, described by French Romantic poet Alphonse de Lamartine as ‘the most perfect poem ever written in stone.’

From the exhibition at Rebecca Camhi Gallery.

From the exhibition at the Kalfayan Gallery.

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Mrs. Tependris uses her intrepid wit and flair to send out a few missives. A sharp and clever gambit to address an issue that has been laced with political innuendos and nationalist invective, the exhibition runs until September 15. ABOUT MRS.TEPENDRIS Who is Mrs. Tependris and how would you describe your relationship with her? This figure was invented and re-invented throughout my life in different stages... a woman who would appear to me in moments of creative bliss or desperate loneliness. I could have never imagined that my imaginary friend, my saviour, my muse, would eventually take real form and have a name. Or that now, after thousands of drawings, numerous exhibitions, performances, and books, that I would still be busy with her. Mrs. Tependris, she always goes by her married name, is a fashion cultureobsessed character. She is sometimes me (or sometimes I’m her), but she can be anyone (though she is not for everyone). She escapes and does not appear to me for years, but she always comes back. It is a real relationship.” athens insider

ABOUT THE EXHIBITION Is Mrs Tependris being ‘woke’ a reaction to the #MeToo campaign and a collective urge to disrupt cultural and colonial stereotypes? #MeToo, is very important, desperately needed, and very belated. I’m not sure if Mrs.Tependris was influenced by that, but she told me that she thinks that the 21st century is the century of Restoration! The last time we met Mrs Tependris, she’d emerged from her cryogenic chamber in time for a fashion comeback. How has Mrs. Tependris morphed from her uberfashion conscious self to an activist? Look, Mrs T. is totally unpredictable and has always acted on the spur of the moment. She is impulsive, surprising, and has no patience. The truth is that I have been obsessed with this cultural crime since I was a child. When I decided to have the two shows in Greece simultaneously, I realized that the Parthenon Marbles is an urgent subject - as are all issues and crimes which have not been resolved (when a solution is offered so easily.) Mrs. Tependris, one Hollywood afternoon appeared, and told me “Let me handle it darling, let me write a few letters)!

How ironic that the sculptures which once represented democracy and freedom are now captive far away from their land of creation and the monument to which they belong.. shown as plunder, of an artistic rape, a legalized theft, and an insult to freedom. Is this really what art teaches us and what we stand for as humans? A museum is the essence of civilization and should be the paradigm of morality and harmony - not theft and acts of colonialism. Extract from Mrs. T.’s note to Dr Hartwig Fischer of the British Museum.

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Konstantin Kakanias portrait by Christopher Bagley

How interesting that Mrs Tependris joins legions of celebrities from the late Christopher Hitchens to Vanessa Redgrave and Stephen Fry to demand the Parthenon Marbles back. Do you believe, as Mrs Tependris notes in her enraged missive, that ‘the occidental museum is the essence of the purest form of colonialism’. Yes, I do believe that. Not all museums of course, but the museums that exhibit looted and stolen art - absolutely - don’t you? Is comedy indeed the best way to intrude into the artistic DNA - the safest way to pass a message or to communicate? Can comedy be a catharsis of the evil and the corrupt? Comedy is a very difficult genre, to achieve in its highest form. Humour is essential in our life, it has a direct effect on our thoughts. Although amusing, it can deal with serious matters. ABOUT YOU What has been the single biggest influence on your art? I love the unlimited freedom inherent in contemporary art, the fact that anything can be art. I love the wonderful sense of humour by Goya. I love the terrible visions of Erich Von Stroheim, Kenneth Anger, James Ensor, Félicien Rops, as well as the lightness of Constantin Guys and Christian Bérard. I live for rococo, but deep inside me I also recognize the influence of early Byzantine art. I am very easily influenced by anything. It is a drawback of my character but since I cannot do anything about it, I try to turn it into something positive. What do you dream of? I live a lot in the past – I suffer from nostalgia, I engage in nostalgia – not kaimos. It is sweetness, not bitterness. I see a lot of my past in my dreams – dreams of people who appear in my dreams. But I’ve never dreamt of Mrs.Tependris. She only appears to me in the daytime. Where do you consider home? With Athens, it is love and hate… in fact, Love and Hate, in capitals. There are times in the past few years that I thought that I had left my soul in a dumpster in Hollywood, but lately it seems like it has been redeemed and sent back to Paris. I went for the first time to Paris when I was eight years old, and today, I know that Paris is and will always be my real home.

What is it that you so love and so passionately hate about Athens? I love Greece very much, Athens is more complicated for me – I grew up here, it was very different then, there are many things I am offended by (therefore the “hate” ) but I love the warmth and immediacy of the Athenians.

What’s your favorite colour? Blue.

What can we expect from Konstantinos Kakanias next? I’m having an exhibition at the Gavlak gallery in Los Angeles in a few weeks with a selection of drawings I created for T magazine, the style magazine of the NYTimes. I am collaborating with Tiffany again (after 25 years) and will continue working with ceramic tiles. I love these works that can be installed in living rooms but also showers, washrooms, corridors, gardens, and can be washed with Ajax!

The one book you’d like to read but haven’t… The Memoirs of the Duc de Saint-Simon.

What song is playing in your head right now? Beam Me Up by Django Django

THAT’S MINE BITCH! DO NOT TOUCH. BACK OFF. Until 15 September 2018 Simultaneously at Rebecca Camhi Gallery, Leonidou 9, Metaxourgeio and Kalfayan Galleries, Haritos 11, Kolonaki. Opening Hours: July: Monday 11:00 – 15:00 Tuesday – Friday 11:00 – 19:00 August: closed. September: Mondays and Saturdays: 11:00 – 15:00 Tuesday – Friday 11:00 – 19:00

The last thing you Googled? The Wikipedia page of Faris Badwan (plus images) - the lead singer of the Horrors. Last time we met, you had Renzo in tow. Now its your puppy Ziggy who has taken over your life. Dogs to you are… Dogs for me are my example for a better living- they teach me how to be a better person.

Theatre or film? Film (it’s bigger). Rock or opera? Opera - adamantly so.

Greece to me is… The simplicity and magnificence of the simplest and purest things. I’d like to die... In my bed, smiling. •

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A selection of Kakanias’ drawings created for NYTimes’ T magazine, as part of an exhibition at the Gavlak gallery in Los Angeles in July 2018. To the left, Renzo, Kakanias’ fashion-savvy box terrier. On the right. YSL with Pierre Bergé and master interior designer Henri Samuel’s refined interiors.

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All photos by Isabelle Merminod

ChloĂŠ Moglia, the Suspensionist

ChloĂŠ Moglia at Syntagma Square on June 8

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hloé Moglia mesmerised the public in four renditions of her display entitled ‘Horizons.’ on June 7 in Syntagma Square, and June 8 at Peiraios 260. Moglia was in Athens for the Athens and Epidaurus Festival, which celebrates theatre, dance and music. She explained that she is neither a trapeze artist nor a circus performer. She hasn’t really got a name for what she does. ‘Suspensionist?’ When she did her studies at the circus school in France (Centre National des Arts du Cirque), she cried for two days when she was told she was going to train on the trapeze; she was terrified of heights. And there is no security mat underneath her. Also, the act has no music and no commentary.

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Isabelle Merminod and Tim Baster capture the callisthenic poetry of French artist Chloé Moglia whose perches over her six-metre high metal frame can only be described as ‘suspension in disbelief’. Dangling, with no nets, from a bar that barely snakes its way around her body, Moglia relies only on her coarse, callused hands and strong arms as she defies gravity, and indeed, mortality. This is meditative circus at its finest, oscillating between the harrowingly nerve-wracking to the subliminally beautiful. A graduate of France’s acclaimed Centre National des Arts du Cirque, Moglia combines the ‘physical strength of an Olympic athlete and the grace of a ballet dancer’, seeking a form of higher consciousness for herself and for her audience.

ChloĂŠ Moglia performing at Peiraios 260 as part of her two day tour of Greece athens insider

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“People ask me: ‘Why is there no security underneath me?’ But of course there is security, but it is not shown by external things. Security is in my head, it is in my body and it is in my perception. It is in my professionalism, in the lightness of spirit with which I try to work and to develop. That is real security. If a security mat is in place, this tells me that I can fall. But when I am head down, even with a security mat six metres below me, I must not fall. So using a security mat is lying to myself. Six meters up on the crescent-shaped cradle, her body creates a series of shapes that sometimes appear to defy the very connection with the metal bar which supports her. “The show is not really about what I do. I think that is what I really love: it is what happens between everyone present. So people can be overwhelmed by anxiety, the fear of the void or of me falling, and they project these fears on to me. Others are calmer about the act and project this feeling on me. So it is a form of dialogue - a conversation between the sensibilities of the spectators and mine. It will be different for everyone.” The mat is not about my safety, it is about managing the anxiety of the people who are watching.…I am very clear when I work that I will not fall; it is very clear. So I don’t need a mat and I don’t have one.”

“Suspension itself, is like an entrance door to the world. But it is also a way of really entering into the heart of questions. Letting go and holding on? What is the void? What is weight? What is gravity? “You can look at it through the lens of physics as I myself did for a while. I read lots of books to answer the question: “What is it?” You can also look at it through meditation techniques. This opens up a huge number of doors, and it is fascinating, I had the feeling of being alive, of progressing, of questioning. It is like being a child again: What? How? Yes it is joyful and alive.” Moglia explains that training is on three different levels: The mind and the spirit; the emotional and the sensitivity; and finally the body. She stresses that the aim is ‘mastery’ not ‘control.’ And the constant danger to guard against remains ‘thoughts that intrude into your head; the head is like a small bicycle, always racing away, always’. Training the body to be supple without ‘slowing down the little bicycle in your head’ will achieve nothing.•

Isabelle Merminod is a freelance photojournalist and Tim Baster is a freelance reporter. They focus on social and human rights issues. They are fascinated by Greek culture, customs and lives.

Chloé Moglia’s intrepid dance in front of an awestruck Athenian audience

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“I have a vague outline; I know more or less that I will do this and the other. I don’t know exactly in what order. Then when I get going I drop even this vague outline which I use every time. I know that I am going to go up on the rope… Finally I have to relax my arms. My arms have to descend so the blood can revitalise things. I play with this a bit, but at the same time I know where this is going. But it depends on the audience’s attention, the luminosity, the sky, the time of day, of all my being…”

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A Requiem for a Master Storyteller John Zervos pays tribute to Philip Kerr, a master of historical detective fiction, and the creator of Bernie Gunther, one of the most endearing, wisecracking detectives in crime writing. In his last book, Greeks Bearing Gifts, published a week after his death in March this year, Kerr leaves behind a compelling spy novel that moves swiftly from Germany to Greece. This is but one of the many entertaining, beautifully written books by a gifted writer who left us too soon.

hilip Kerr, was a Scottish-born writer who penned extraordinary novels featuring a Nazi-era detective named Bernie Gunther, whose egregious style and moral ambiguity resembled Philip Marlowe, Raymond Chandler’s classic private eye. By placing the sardonic Gunther in Hitler’s Germany, Mr. Kerr found ample ground for years of intrigue, power plays, collective atrocities, love stories, betrayals, assassinations and human beings caught in the whirlpool of the Third Reich “like fragments of torn-up hope”. A Marlowe in a different setting. Forced out his job at ‘The Kripo’, the Berlin Police Force for refusing to join the National Socialists, he becomes a ‘sniffer,’a private detective, mostly looking for ‘missing persons’. His observations are indicative of the status quo in Berlin. “Behind my office, to the south-east, was Police Headquarters, and I imagined all the good hard work that was being done there to crack down on Berlin’s crime. Villainies like speaking disrespectfully of the Führer, displaying a ‘Sold Out’ sign in your butcher’s shop window, not giving the Hitler Salute, and homosexuality. That was Berlin under the National Socialist Government: a big,

haunted house with dark corners, gloomy staircases, sinister cellars, locked rooms and a whole attic full of poltergeists on the loose, throwing books, banging doors, breaking glass, shouting in the night and generally scaring the owners so badly that there were times when they were ready to sell up and get out. But most of the time they just stopped up their ears, covered their blackened eyes and tried to pretend that there was nothing wrong. Cowed with fear, they spoke very little, ignoring the carpet moving underneath their feet, and their laughter was the thin, nervous kind that always accompanies the boss’s little joke.” Gunther is “one of crime fiction’s most satisfying and unlikely survivors: the good cop in the belly of the beast,” Jane Kramer, The New Yorker’s longtime European correspondent, wrote last year. With the Munich Olympics as a backdrop, Gunther, investigated a murder that led him to the hierarchy of the Nazi party and was often ‘pressed’ into jobs for the propaganda minister Joseph Goebbels and Reinhard Heydrich, a principal architect of the Final Solution A German Requiem (1991) ended a trilogy called Berlin Noir by taking events to the end of the second world war and Vienna. The One from the Other (2006) was the first in a run of 10 more Berlin Noir novels, taking him to Poland, Ukraine, Austria, Argentina, Cuba, France, Greece and other countries. In addition to protagonist detective Gunther the books are remarkable in their historical accuracy, the details of the cities, be it Berlin or Athens, the facial gestures, the mannerisms, and the ‘feeling’ of each town or village. But it is Gunther’s dry observations that make the books such a pleasure to read. Entering a night club he observes, “Looking round the room I found there were so many false eyelashes flapping at me that I was beginning to feel a draught.” While still a cop at the Kripo he remarks, “Being a Berlin cop in 1942 was a little like putting down mousetraps in a cage full of tigers.” All of Kerr’s books are worth reading; informative, horrifying and amusing at the same time. He joins the ranks of the best historical detective novelists and rightly received the Ellis Peters Historic Crime award. He passed away a month ago just before the publication of his last book “Greeks Bearing Gifts.” •

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On Greeks Bearing Gifts 1957, Munich. Bernie Gunther’s latest move in a long string of varied careers sees him working for an insurance company. It makes sense: both cops and insurance companies have a vested interest in figuring out when people are lying to them, and Bernie has a lifetime of experience to call on. Sent to Athens to investigate a claim from a fellow German for a ship that has sunk, Bernie takes an instant dislike to the claimant. When he discovers the ship in question once belonged to a Greek Jew deported to Auschwitz, he is convinced the sinking was no accident but an avenging arson attack. Then the claimant is found dead, shot through

both eyes. It’s a win for Bernie’s employers at least: no one to pay out to even if the claim is genuine. But who is behind the murder, and why? Strong-armed into helping the Greek police with their investigation, Bernie is once again drawn inexorably back to the dark history of the Second World War, and the deportation of the Jews of Salonika - now Thessaloniki. As Europe seems ready to move on to a more united future with Germany as a partner rather than an enemy, at least one person in Greece is ready neither to forgive nor forget. And, deep down, Bernie thinks they may have a point. This is his 13th novel starring the wisecracking detective Bernie Gunther, and a 14th, Metropolis, is slated to be published in 2019.

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A literary labour of love Matt Stanley, who penned three crime thrillers under the pseudonym James McCreet, writes his tenth book, A Collar for Cerberus, under his real name, in a style far-removed from the blood and gore of his Victorian mysteries. In a long, candid interview with Sudha Nair-Iliades, he confesses that this insightful opus is an ode to his beloved Greece, where he learned ‘to love and live life.’

Collar for Cerberus starts off with a stern warning: “Never meet your heroes…they’re just conduits for something purer and less real.” That sets the tone for a reflective book, admittedly based on the author, Matt Stanley’s personal journey of self-discovery. Set in Greece, where Stanley spent a few years, the book is dotted with references to places, people and experiences that come alive with his spot-on observations and evocative references. The allusion to Cerberus, the three-headed hound of the netherworld is, we presume, a metaphor for German philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer’s bleak worldview – a world in a constant state of unhappiness driven by continually dissatisfied people. It prompts the reader to probe a few fundamental existential issues: an exploration of how we live, the decisions we make and what really matters to us.

Matt Stanley.

You’ve written books before under the pseudonym James McCreet. Why did you feel the need to write under a different name and what prompted you to switch back? I never wanted to be famous or recognized. It was always more important to me that the books spoke for themselves, so a pseudonym gave me that anonymity. Also, I was aware that my early books were ‘apprentice works’ – I was still learning

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Your crime fiction has been described as ‘suitably grisly and lurid, with tremendous style and wit.’ What drew you to crime writing? I wrote a Master’s thesis on the development of detective fiction, starting with Edgar Allan Poe. It seemed a shame to waste all the good research I’d done, so I used it for my crime series. What is it about good old-fashioned Victorian murder mysteries that make for such compelling reading? A crime is a ready-made story. It has victims and heroes and a development and a motive. In fact, the birth of the genre was in the sensational newspaper stories that glorified the grisly details of metropolitan murders. The Victorian city is the forerunner of our modern cities: dirty, dangerous, unknown. Without phones or Internet or computers, investigations were more difficult and crime was a horror lurking in every gas-lit street. For A Collar For Cerebrus, you switched genres from crime to literary fiction. Why? Isn’t it risky for a writer to move away from a successful tried-and-tested formula to plunge into unchartered waters? How was writing this novel set in Greece different to your other novels? Risky, sure – but writing is about risk if you want to improve. I believe that a writer always needs to push boundaries and work at the limit of their capability. A series is relatively easy to write once you have the characters and location. Cerberus was different and special because it represented uncharted waters. I was travelling without a compass or a map – only a sense that what I wanted to say was important, and that my style needed to grow. This Greek novel has more of me in it than the others. It goes deeper than story. Strangely, it was also easier to write. Perhaps this was because there was so much I wanted to say through the characters and because my passion for the country was so strong. It was a world that I still carry inside me, whereas Victorian London was always a product of extensive research. Tell us a bit about A Collar for Cerebrus. It is a more reflective book – an exploration of how we live, the decisions we make and what really matters to us as the narrator athens insider

takes a journey through iconic Greece. Do you think that Greeks are better qualified at cracking the code or at least probing the source of true happiness? You only have to read Homer or the Greek philosophers to find many of the questions we ask about life and happiness have already been answered. I find the origins of storytelling in Homer and in the Greek myths, Greek drama, Greek history. My time in Greece showed me that the Greeks live for pleasure – to eat, to drink, to dance, to swim, to make love . . . to live in the moment. It’s a sensual and sensuous life. That’s why I felt my character Bastounis had to be a Greek. The book also has origins in journals I kept while living in Nafplio, Grevena and Cephalonia. I was more alive in those days and appreciated life more. Somewhere over the years I forgot how to love and live life. Work and routine took over. This book was an exploration of how we forget and how we might remember the pleasures of life and what it’s worth. The book is littered with references to the twelve labours of Iracles (Hercules) and to Cerberus, the three-headed Hound of Hades whose job it was to stop the dead from escaping the underworld. To what extent is the book a modern take on the old myth? Does a collared Cerebrus mean that lost souls can break free, and live again? The Greek myths offer us eternal story types that are constantly being retold. I was influenced by the Odyssey and by Hercules’ labours as classic narrative forms. The update is in the author Irakles offering his young assistant twelve challenges on how to live a fuller life. As with the original challenges, there will be monsters to kill and obstacles to overcome. Life is full of such challenges and choices we have to make: to avoid what frightens us, or face the fear and grow. I wouldn’t like to say too clearly what the title signifies because it’s mentioned at the end of the book. However, there’s a question about whether Cerberus was keeping people inside the underworld or preventing them from entering unofficially. Hercules was one of the heroes (along with Orpheus and Odysseus) who entered Hades on a mission. You’ve been quoted as saying that “No amount of reading can create the same impression as standing in the footsteps of your characters.” Was Irakles Bastounis modeled on a living character? To some extent, all characters are

Cerberus was different and special because it represented uncharted waters. I was travelling without a compass or a map – only a sense that what I wanted to say was important, and that my style needed to grow. This Greek novel has more of me in it than the others. It goes deeper than story. aspects of the author and the author’s life experience. Bastounis is based on many old Greek men I met, but also on characters from literature. Many of his opinions are my opinions. All of his language is my language. Ultimately, the two main characters are distinct parts of myself: me as a young man and me twenty years later. It’s always interesting, when travelling, to compare different models of masculinity and what makes a man a man. I remember being impressed by the old men in Greek villages: well dressed in old clothes and with a quiet dignity that also showed their strength. I shook hands with a 90-year-old farmer in Arcadia and felt that my hand would be destroyed for life. My original quote about standing in the footsteps was about researching locations, so perhaps much of the truth in Bastounis comes from me having visited the places mentioned in the book and my feelings while I was there. When he describes Tiryns or Delphi or Olympia, he is describing my thoughts. You’ve lived and worked in Greece for three years and your passion for Greece comes through the pages of this book. How, if at all, has Greece changed since then? I was last in Greece in 2009. It was a sadder place and I know that many people are still struggling. I still dream about returning to visit the sites that inspired me, but I am also finding inspiration in other places. I remind myself that when Odysseus finally arrived home in Ithaca, he didn’t have the urge to travel for a long time!

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the craft. With Cerberus, I’ve written the best book of my life (so far) and I finally felt it was something I could put my real name on.

Are you considering a sequel to A Collar for Cerebrus? Depending on the success of Cerberus, I have ideas for a sequel in which the young man returns after twenty years, or a prequel in which we trace the life of Bastounis up to the moment when we meet him in his village. Generally, though, I prefer to do something totally new to test my abilities. Would you name a quintessentially Greek experience that stood out during your stay / travels here? Any memorable meals at a restaurant or under-the radar destinations you’d recommend? What a fantastic question! There were so many experiences. I remember eating a fantastic fasolada at Mount Athos, sitting alone in the ruined church atop Monemvasia as the sun went down, eating xtapodia krasato by the sea in Gytheio, drinking tea with a blind monk at Meteora, gorging myself on bougatsa in Thessaloniki, drinking ouzo in the bay of Vathy in Ithaca, spending a cold New Year’s Eve on the lake island in Ioannina, walking the Diakopto-Kalavrita railway route with a picnic, eating Metsovo smoked cheese by a waterfall in a canyon near Konitsa. But if I had to choose a Greek restaurant to eat my final meal, it would be Mezedopoleio Noulis in Nafplio. It was like a second home when I lived there. The book takes the reader through some of Greece’s most iconic sites and a lot of traditional Greek dishes. Why is there such a focus on food in the book? I often remind people that the English have no phrase for kali orexi or bon apetit or buon gusto or buen provecho! Many Mediterranean countries have a far more developed food culture, in which eating has its own special rituals. I always used to love eating mezedhes, or taking an hour (or more) to enjoy a cold frappe by the sea. I remember eating cherries or figs or oranges straight from the trees. A few times, I went fishing for octopus and caught them by hand, prepared them and grilled them. The flavours of Greece stay with me now. The book has things to say about religion and your characters spend some time at the Holy Mountain. What was your experience of Orthodoxy in Greece? I visited a lot of monasteries and churches, ruined and active. I spent time talking to monks and priests. Regardless of what I might believe, I loved the art and traditions of the Church, and the part it has played in Greek history. There’s a sense of

mystery and beauty in Orthodoxy that is irresistible to a writer, and my experience with the holy men of Greece was always (with one very weird exception) very open-minded and interesting. Athos was a strange place for me – a step back into history. I was there only three days but the time is still vivid in my mind. It’s the kind of place that should exist only in books or the imagination, but there it is in its own isolated reality, a magical place. •

A Collar for Cerberus by Matt Stanley is published by Thistle Publishing, UK. The book is available on Amazon and at leading bookstores. www.thistlepublishing.co.uk

A naïve English graduate arrives in Greece seeking experience and perhaps an encounter with his literary hero: Nobel laureate and irascible old hellraiser Irakles Bastounis. Agreeing to act as driver for Bastounis, the young man finds himself on a hectic, adventurous and always challenging tour of Greece’s wonders – an apprentice in how to live life to the fullest. As the road trip progresses, the questions arise. Is Bastounis still an addict? Who is following him and why? Is he researching his final, much-anticipated novel? Who are the people he’s meeting along the way? And how far will one young man ultimately go in the name of experience? A Collar for Cerberus is a story about time, life, pleasure and the decisions we make.

e should be celebrating much more, and stop feeling sorry for ourselves. Aristotle must take much of the blame for our current gloom. His idea, that “If it’s this, it can’t be that, and if it’s that, it isn’t this” created a whole philosophical system of binary oppositions, exclusionary cultures which emphasise “us” versus “them”. It has built tensions between Greece and Turkey, between Greece and Macedonia, and within Greece between right and left, rich and poor, country and city. But difference need not be confrontational. Our big mistake in Greece today is to see everything in black and white, because no-one likes gray. But in a world of kaleidoscopic colour, you can find rainbows: LGBT, political coalitions, crossover music, languages, ethnicities. More and more, in our society, we’re discovering the possibilities within the spectrum. We cannot ignore the economic crisis, or the nightmare of bureaucracy, or the lack of political leadership, or the bribery and corruption, because they won’t go away. We cannot deny that one of Greece’s most valuable assets, its young people, do go away – because there are so few prospects at home for intelligent, innovative, industrious graduates.

Mosaic Identities & Curvy Culture Corfiot resident and cross-culture explorer Richard Pine thinks laterally about the identity debate that has preoccupied much of Greece and suggests embracing a mindful middleway.

We cannot ignore the refugee crisis, but refugees should be seen not as a threat but as an opportunity. Like the ‘loan-words’ in our vocabulary, they are thrust upon us by history and ‘progress’. Refugees bring new tastes, new ways of thinking about sunrise and sunset. But they are, in the best sense of the word, “loan-people” and without them we wouldn’t have such experiences as Tassos Boulmetis’ 2003 film “A Touch of Spice” (Πολιτικη Κουξινα), where one character says his cuisine “is made by people who left their dinner unfinished somewhere”. When, on the eve of EU membership, Constantinos Karamanlis proclaimed “Ανήκωμεν εις τήν Δύσιν” “We belong to the

Politiki Kouzina

#CULTURE_opinion

I come from Ireland, where there has been the same debate as in Greece: should we be sticking to what makes us ineffably Irish or Greek in language, music, literature, cuisines – in short, everything that makes up the culture of everyday life – or should we be striving to modernise, to become more like our European neighbours and leave behind this insistence on roots and ethnicity? I thought of Kavakos when I encountered the work of Christopher King, whose new book, “Lament from Epirus” is a companion to the discs he has produced, rescuing archive recordings of Epirot music. As King explains, the tradition is still flourishing and is nourishing the region. If it can do so alongside new musical styles and if it can be subliminally athens insider

present in the music-making of Leonidas Kavakos, we have a viable bridge between tradition and modernity. “Lament from Epirus” is not a threnody – it’s a challenge to all of us to respect what it stands for and to take it into our own lives. Seventy years ago, Irish composers agonised over their responsibility to “Irishness” in music. Today, they have put that anxiety behind them, and become part of the cosmopolitan network, but are none the less Irish for that, and probably more secure in their Irishness. I think of Greece’s history and I see much more than a simple tension between Greeks and Turks, between east and west. The knack, I think, is to regard today’s Greece not as a set of oppositions but as a palimpsest, layer upon layer of cultures, ideas, opinions, languages, stacked both horizontally and vertically. This way, it’s easier to resolve tensions. If you can’t reject what is unacceptable to you, then at least you can set it aside. You can live with difference, without feeling the need to beat the hell out of it. I see layers of history, layers of languages and layers of cultures. We have classical Greek, we have katharevousa, we have demotic, but there are also Pontic Greek and Anatolian Greek, and languages that are not Greek at all. Where I live, in Corfu, the culture is heavily imbued with Italian vocabulary, cuisine and architecture. In Greece generally, it would be a hardbitten nationalist indeed who would deny the centrality of Turkish cultural and linguistic factors. And in a world where geopolitics, multinational corporations and globalisation are facts of life, we have to accept – whether we like it or not – that Piraeus port is Chinese-owned, that the

Leonidas Kavakos

I like my culture curvy. Bending ideas is not only more subtle, it’s more constructive. We need much more lateral thinking.

regional airports are now run by Germans, and that so much of the “family silver” will continue to be sold off. It happens to the best of families. You can’t turn defeat into victory, but you can snatch hope from the jaws of misery. If it hadn’t been for the appalling miscalculation that caused the Anatolian Catastrophe of 1922, we wouldn’t have the treasure of rembetika music. If it hadn’t been for the 400-year domination of the Ionian islands by Venice, we wouldn’t have wonderful dishes like pastitsada and we probably wouldn’t have Nikolas Mantzaros, Dionysios Solomos or the Greek national anthem. Linear thinking is not only boring but leads too often to confrontation: you get your lines crossed with your neighbour’s, and end up head-butting each other. I like my culture curvy. Bending ideas is not only more subtle, it’s more constructive. We need much more lateral thinking. In Athens I often eat sushi because my favourite taverna in the Plaka is full of Japanese tourists. How lateral is that? •

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West”, he was placing a major questionmark over Greece’s future because it went to the heart of Greekness: at the crossroads of three continents, where does Greece belong? East and West are so deeply embedded in both history and culture, in intellect, poetry and landscape, that it is impossible to justify such a declaration. It calls for a personality change, a relocation of all those elements which constitute the complex nature of Greekness. It put the Cerberus among the turtle-doves. Worst of all, it created an unnecessary opposition between traditional and modern. If you adhere to traditional values, you’re regarded as backward. If you want change, you’re called a traitor to Greekness. I think it is a remarkable fact, and one to be respected and cherished, that one of the world’s greatest classical violinists, Leonidas Kavakos, comes from a family of Epirot traditional fiddlers, and is proud of it. He obviously doesn’t take the Aristotelian route because the traditional musicality is within him, fuelling his achievements on the international concert platform, but in a different way!

fast lane

Finghin Collins Performs in Athens and Corfu

Irish piano maven Finghin Collins brings the timbre of Ireland to the Greek shores this September at the Athens Conservatoire and on the historical island of Corfu. Collins, who, after winning the Clara Haskil International Piano Competition, made a name for himself on the international stage, will perform specially commissioned works by Irish composers as well as renowned artists Chopin and Schubert. Collins will showcase the brilliant musicality that has landed him at the Chicago Symphony, London Philharmonic, Royal Philharmonic and l’Orchestre de la Suisse Romande, and will be joined by 17-year-old Greek flutist Daniel Damaskinos, who made his professional debut in 2016. WHEN: September 13, 16 WHERE: Athens Conservatoire and Ionian Academy Contact AthensEmbassyRSVP@dfa.ie or durrelllibrarycorfu@gmail.com for more information.

Music at Molyvos

Already in its 4th year, this summer’s Molyvos International Music festival presents an impressive programme of classical music on Lesbos. Held at the traditional village of Molyvos, the show features 27 talented and award-winning soloists including Lars Vogt, one of the leading German pianists of his generation. The music is expected to engulf the islands many hidden treasures with classic sounds and effervescent performances. WHEN: August 8-19 WHERE: Lesbos, Greece Visit www.molyvosfestival.com for details.

Queen Bee: Kolonaki’s new hive

Panagiotis Kalyvas, of Capanna and Kolonaki Kalamaki fame, opens an all- day hangout and it has Athenians making a beeline for it! Disrupting the city's bistrot scene, Queen Bee introduces a game-changing bakehouse that directly connects Athens with downtown New York & Paris. Artisan house-made sourdough breads, hand-picked quality ingredients and the feel-good philosophy of straightforward, hearty, comfort food with a side of je ne sais quoi. Finally, the breakfast & brunch this city was entitled to. Lunch, dinner and cocktails too. Patriarchou Ioakim 45, Kolonaki. Tel. +30 210.720.9933

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EllinikoTheatro Celebrates the Greek-American Cultural Mosaic

EllinikoTheatro celebrates 40 years of cultural diplomacy with the ATHENS2018 festival, a summer jubilee honouring Greek-American artistic endeavours for Greek theatregoers starved of English productions. In collaboration with Theatre 104 in Gazi, Elliniko Theatro staged the renowned, offBroadway, one-man show Rent Control, written by and starring Evan Zes. Rent Control tells the true tale of a struggling actor living in New York. The show featured an enthusiastic Zes playing the part of 30 different characters, followed by an open discussion led by the actor. The performance, which deservingly won the “Overall Excellence Award” at the New York International Fringe Festival, included Greek surtitles, entertaining both international and local audiences. EllinkoTheatro’s cultural mosaic continued with the Emmy award-winning Yannis Simonides’ Cavafy: Poet of the City, which pays homage to the great poets of the 20th century, particularly the Greek, literary genius Constantine P. Cavafy. Recently dubbed the World Book Capital of 2018, Athens also welcomed bookworms and film buffs to a montage of literature and film. Acclaimed authors Lynne Tillman and Ranbir Sidhu took to the stage for a reading and documentary previews. The artistic connoisseurs, widely lauded for their astute perceptions of society, hosted an open discussion based on the films and on Tillman’s newest novel, Men and Apparitions.

Visit ellinikotheatro.gr for details about EllinikoTheatro.

Lynne Tillman

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Rent Control, written by and starring Evan Zes.

athens insider

fast lane Il Barretto: Italian flair

Pavlos Samios

With three of its restaurants at large shopping malls - the Golden Hall, McArthur Glen and River West - Il Barretto sets shop at hipster capital, Ag.Irinis square at the newly-opened Perianth Hotel. Beautifully done up in understated tones and with a very airy, minimalist aesthetic, Il Baretto infuses its light meals with Italian elegance and a feisty Mediterranean temperament. Insider recommends a simple antipasti of Italian cheese and cured meats to accompany a Greek merlot, or papardelle with mushrooms if you crave something heartier and end on a sweet note of Torta Al Limone with poppy seeds. Vasilikis 2, Athens. Tel.+30 21 0322 2555

A Meditation on the Parthenon Frieze

Artist and professor at the Athens School of Fine Arts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; expert of the illustrious Parthenon Frieze â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Pavlos Samios led a discussion on the scale, colours and architectural techniques of the Frieze to an artistically-enamoured audience at the Rubin Museum of Art in Manhattan on June 14. Entrancing listeners with meditations on the style of the Greek marble masterpiece, Samios presented a short film highlighting the artistic process. A Q&A session followed the programme, during which Samios discussed the political issue of the return of the Parthenon marbles. Visit www.rubinmuseum.org for details about the Rubin Museum of Art.

ACS Scholarships for Refugee Children

The HOME Project, a nonprofit which offers young refugees in Greece shelter and work, has announced the creation of 18 full scholarships to the American Community School (ACS) for refugee children. The Home Project endeavours to present foreign-born, unaided children with an inclusive educational experience. Students will be enrolled in courses including English and Greek as Foreign Languages, mathematics, computers and the arts. The scholarships are supported by the Shapiro Foundation, an organization which has provided humanitarian aid and education to immigrants and refugees since 2001. Get involved by visiting www.homeproject.org

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Symmetric escapes

An architect by profession. Costas Spathisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; distinctive style in aerial photography is replete with simple geometries and mathematical sequences. The 114,000 followers on his Instagram account are testament to the surreal, escapist quality that his patterned compositions represent. Dominated by symmetry axes, vanishing points and aligned positions through a minimal view, the human presence in his photographs are most often displayed as an indication of scale. Iridology, Vouliagmeni Bay

View Costas Spathis' images at @spathumpa and at costasspathis.com Rolling Stones, Ionian Sea

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#TRAVEL_culture

Vouliagmeniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discreet allure Vouliagmeni promises island magic, alluring glamour and great dining options but its real charm lies in its off-grid beauty. Wedged between the craggy shoulder of the Hymettus and the inviting turquoise sweep of the Saronic, this coastal suburb just 20 kilometres off the city centre, is all the more precious for what it has managed not to become. Text by Sudha Nair-Iliades and photographs by Defne Ă&#x2021;evik

View from the Astir Marina of the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, set to open in March 2019

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summering destination of well-heeled Athenians to being the most coveted piece of the Greek real estate pie, Vouliagmeni has, impossibly, managed to retain its savage beauty, still holding on to its cherished way of island-in-the-city living. With just over 5,000 permanent residents, all Vouliagmeni has by way of entertainment is a lone open-air cinema. There are no clubs, no museums, no shops selling anything other than food, save for two supermarkets and boutiques on Astir Beach selling swimwear and beach essentials. But what it lacks in ruins, shopping and nightlife, it more than compensates with its raw beauty and authenticity. Wallowing between a molten turquoise bay and a jagged mountain slope, this is where the white smudge of the urban sprawl of coastal Athens gives way to

palm trees, umbrella pines, flowers and fountains. With a narrow, winding neck of land snaking around the bay and the open sea, its impeccably well-kept boulevards, long, sandy beaches, two nautical clubs that rival each other in the watersport activities they offer, and a host of dining options from elemental taverna fare to pricey gourmet offerings, it is easily the most hankered after coastal address for Athenians and foreigners-in-the-know. But what marks it as the Athenian Riviera's prized jewel is its allure as an iconic luxury destination attracting the glamorous set and their large yachts at the iconic Astir Hotel and its storied marina. Every A-lister from Jackie O to President Obama have made a stop here. And few real estate developments have elicited as much controversy or have been awaited with as much anticipation as the opening

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yria Athina peels her potatoes with a vigour that defies her 70odd years at Louizidis taverna, favoured by Vouliagmeniotes as the go-to place for mageirefta and local gossip for the past 50 years. The lottery vendor, who goes by the single name of Kostas, asks regulars after their children and doles out some unproferred advice on how to treat a sunburn to a young tourist couple. Cats doze in the blazing afternoon sun. A whiff of lavender and the musky scent of oregano permeate the air. The staff here have remained unchanged, as has the menu. Vouliagmeni wears its reputation as the playground of the rich and discreet with a very grounded, down-to-earth, villagelike conviviality. Despite its glam quotient, most residents know each other by name, face, or reputation. From an unassuming

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View of Vouliagmeni Lake from the sage-scented slopes of 'Faskomilia'

of the Four Seasons Astir Hotel in March 2019, expected to set a new benchmark for luxury hospitality. Its investors have pumped in more than 100 million euros into refurbishing the hotel’s facilities with features that will include 300 rooms and a unique beachfront promenade. For Vouliagmeni locals, however, what will really change its stature – and their everyday quality of life – is the ambitious redevelopment plan that includes a significant upgrade of the mooring facilities at the Astir harbour, a total make-over of the Astir Beach waterfront and the creation of a wooded Peninsula Park with running tracks and sports facilities open to the public at the end of the promontory. For its pocket-size, there are enough things to do in Vouliagmeni year-round. A good place to start is the cavernous Vouliagmeni Lake that lies etched into an immense limestone boulder. This geological marvel’s tepid springs keep the water at a swim-friendly 24 C. Its emerald brackish waters, reputedly blessed with therapeutic properties, has always been a draw. But urban legends about sinister waters, murky tunnels, lost divers and strange water creatures abound, adding to its mystique. The stunningly beautiful terrace that skirts the lake doubles up as a restaurant in the evenings – and is open throughout the summer until late

Panoramic view of the Astir peninsula

#CITY LIFE September. Sip on a frappé, get a massage, or take in one of the several jazz concerts and yoga sessions on its lawns.

While in Athens, the sea is no more than a sparkle glimpsed between concrete in Vouliagmeni, it commands the eye, lolling in turquoise splendour in an expansive beachrimmed bay.

athens insider

Entrance to the premium Astir Beach

Vouliagmeni's Palm tree lines coastal avenue

Secret winter swimmers' cove

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The sandy stretches that hug the narrow isthmus linking Vouliagmeni to its harbour are not pebbly or gravelly like most Greek beaches, drawing Athenians here on a Sunday to swim, windsurf or sail - or simply to enjoy long lunches of local fish. If a languorous beach day is what you’re after, the Astir Beach’s curtained daybeds, beach spa and waiter service to parasoled sunbeds should convince you. Dining options here range from the newly opened Nice n Easy’s organic and healthy-gourmet fare to Greek seafood at 40. The beach also boasts the ruins of the temple of Apollo Zoster. The myth goes that Leto, who had caught Zeus’ roving eye, was hounded by Hera across land and sea. She threw off her girdle here on her hasty journey to Delos to deliver Apollo, who lends his name to the shoreline that stretches from Vouliagmeni to Sounion. For the sporty, there's water-skiing, wakeboarding, paddling, wind-surfing and even aqua-aerobics. Entrance to the beach may be pricey at 50 euros a sunbed on the weekend and 30 euros on weekdays but then that’s the price you pay to people watch, flaunt your designer swimwear and earn morning-after bragging rights. Comparatively, Vouliagmeni Beach with a playground, tennis courts, a snack bar, watersport equipment, and a blue flag certification for cleanliness, is a great place to spend the day at a mere 5 euros on the weekend and 4 euros on weekdays. But it means jostling with the masses for towel space! If you’re loathe to pay to swim, the narrow strip of sand just across the high-frills Astir Beach and next to the Nautical club has the same enticingly clear water and free views along the bay. Early morning bathers here include senior aqua-gymming women in rosy swimsuits, fondly nicknamed pink flamingos by residents. Most swimmers tend to seek out the free beaches along Kavouri just past

Fine dining at Matsuhisa

Blue Fish

The beautifully appointed, secluded Krabo cove

Margi Hotel or just jump off the jetty by Akti. Nudists and topless skinny-dippers tend to favour any of the several coves that hug the coast between Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. Teetering amid a series of rocky inlets is Limanakia, the preferred swimming destination for the hipster set and the gay community. There’s music, cold beer and no known closing hours what’s not to like? Another little insider secret is the Winter Swimmers' Club where spry octogenarians and wiry retirees swim year round, furthering Vouliagmeni’s reputation as a spa town. The Nautical Club of Vouliagmeni (NOB), founded in 1937, and the highly subsidized and popular Vouliagmeni Residents’ Nautical Club (NOKB) offer summer camps and sporting activities throughout the year and indeed, this idyllic suburb prides itself as home to worldclass wind-surfing champions (including Nikolaos Kaklamanakis who won the Olympic gold medal in Atlanta and silver at the Athens Olympics) and European Championship-winning women's and men's water polo teams. Omilos at the NOB and En Plo at NOKB offer a terrific perch to watch young children bounce off water glides or navigate their little Optimists. The newly opened Blue Fish at NOKB with its stone walls, white tables and rustic décor sets the tone for an unhurried meal. This is the closest you can get to having a meal on the water and what’s more, unlike its cheesier and pricier seaside counterparts, the food here is a delightfully engaging play on textures and flavours. Perfect for pre-or post-swim meals or indeed, in between dips! Vouliagmeni is practically built over the lake and its open, sage-scented hillsides planted with wild olives, eucalyptus, pines and evergreen oaks make for one of the most picturesque and unspoilt corners of Attica with 360 views to the sea. A breathtakingly beautiful walking trail, it is a sanctuary for wildlife, and in spring, carpeted with wild irises, chamomile and poppies. Another favoured walking path is along the Kavouri promenade to the roar of the ocean crashing to the song of cicadas. For fine dining, Ithaki suspended on a cliff above Astir beach is expensive but well worth the splurge for special occasions. Nobu’s Matsuhisa in the Astir Complex with its sublime, refined JapanesePeruvian cuisine remains a destination of choice for its spectacular setting as for its legendary black cod in miso that must surely feature on every foodie’s bucket list. The Moorings at the Vouliagmeni marina is a good pit stop for coffees, cocktails and gourmet meals with a side-order of yacht-

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athens insider

Lutetia at Somewhere boutique hotel

Vouliagmeni's narrow strip lined with cafes, restaurants and bars

ADDRESSES Ithaki Restaurant, Apollonos 28 Tel. 210.896.3747 BlueFish Restaurant, Leoforos Poseidonos 4 Tel. 210.967.1778 Moorings, Astir Marina. Tel. 210.967.0659 Malabar Restaurant in Margi Hotel, Litous 11 Tel. 210.892.9160 Matsuhisa Athens, Apollonos 40 Tel. 210.896.0510

Louizidis Taverna, Ermou 2 Tel. 210.896.0591 Tylixto Greek Wrap, Agiou Panteleimonos 15 Tel. 210.896.0030 Astir Beach, Apollonos 40 Tel. 210.890.1619 Lake Vouliagmeni, Ethniki Odos Athinon Souniou Tel. 210.896.2239 Astir Marina, Apollonos Street 77 Tel. 210.896.0012

Somewhere Hotel, Agiou Panteleimonos Tel. 210.967.0000 Aqua Marina, Agiou Panteleimonos 15 Tel. 210.896.1214 Krabo, Thespidos, Vouliagmeni. Tel. 210.896.3309 Sloop Cafe, Agiou Panteleimonos 17 Tel. 210.896.2500 Takis, Agiou Panteleimonos 17 Tel. 210.890.0200

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envy. Work out your excesses by strolling along the harbour and taking in some serious eye-candy – no leaky fishing boats here, just million-dollar sleek yachts. Lutetia at the small but luxurious 11room Somewhere Hotel offers a discreet getaway to tuck into a sumptuous meal. Candlelit farm-to-table dinners by the pool at Malabar in boutique hotel Margi’s jasmine-scented courtyard are ideal to amp up the romance. The latest addition to the Margi Hotel’s leisure offerings is Krabo, a beautiful secluded cove equipped with sundecks, cocktails and a sophisticated dining experience. For ouzo and mezes, Akti is a good option, especially for a post-swim meze though it’s a tad too overpriced for fish. Sardelles, a new seafood arrival on the waterfront has established itself as a great value-for-money neotaverna. Only glitch: they follow a strict no-reservations policy, so you cannot book ahead. The 130-year old Labros, a steady point of reference in every sepia-tinted image of Vouliagmeni, still has a cachet for Athenians who head there to relive the nostalgia of Sunday family lunches. For daily meals, locals flock to the familyrun Louizidis on Vouliagmeni’s main square, which has fed generations with good, wholesome Greek staples for years. Zaxos which used to be souvlaki king for 25 years has now been dethroned by newcomers Takis for succulent skewered chicken and Tylichto for its filling gyros wraps. It seems as if the strip that runs parallel to the main coastal road is a 24-hour caffeine zone and most locals split time between the most popular cafes to catch up with newspapers and friends. Aquamarina is yet another Vouliagmeni ‘institution’ with its old-fashioned charms and retro green rexine chairs, reputed for its meringues and millefeuilles, popular with the older generation. Sloop is a laidback hangout with good coffee, attentive service, an incredible view to the limpid Saronic bay and the crunchiest potato wedges! Rumors at the far-end is a fave ‘steki’ for young professionals who work in the neighborhood. Waffle House is a family pleaser and is packed to the gills any given time of the day, throughout the year. The local bakery Artopolis doubles up as café Philip and serves light snacks and salads. A good way to end a lazy summer evening is at Akti, Vouliagmeni’s lone summer cinema that has survived real-estate sharks and Netflix. Film screenings usually start at 9 pm, with a second screening at around 11pm – it is a very convivial affair as families troop in with children, dogs, cigarettes and snacks to watch re-runs under the stars.

Cinema Under the Stars

Nothing defines the beginning of Greek summer as open-air cinemas do. Every neighbourhood has one – some as old as the history of cinema, perched on a rooftop with a view of the Acropolis; others, more recent entrants, right on the water set to the music of sailboat masts swaying in the summer breeze; still others surrounded by perfumed gardens that fill the sultry evening with the quintessential Greek fragrance of orange blossoms and jasmine. With over 60 open-air cinemas to choose from in Attica alone, it is a Greek summer tradition that is truly alive and well. Open from June to August, Maria-Irene Moschona rounds up four of her favourite summer cinemas.

Cine Dexameni

aving survived the crisis and realestate developers, summer cinemas with their director’s chairs and their compelling aroma of crackling popcorn are still a haunt for the young and old alike. Most families visit en masse – grandmothers with a few mezedakia wrapped for ever-hungry grandkids, babies in strollers, pets on leash, young parents who can keep their children distracted enough to sneak in most of the movie, teens in large pareas – the open-air cinema is a truly democratic space, open to all. What’s more, open-air cinemas let you sip on a frappe, knock back a couple of beers, snack, lick ice-creams and even smoke while propping up your feet on the seats ahead. But for most cinephiles, its appeal lies in the possibility of catching reruns of blockbusters in two evening shows. Keeping the open-air cinema tradition alive is the Athens Open Air Film Festival which runs until August 29 . The festival offers free cinema and cultural events and runs at different venues in the centre of Athens, open-air cinemas, at the distinctive Aghia Irini and Metaxourgeio squares, courtyards and pedestrian zones. The festival premiered this year on June 4 (supported by the U.S. Embassy in Athens) with Clint Eastwood’s critically acclaimed film “The Bridges of Madison” (1995) featuring Meryl Streep in one of her best ever on-screen performances at the Byzantine and Christian Museum garden – one of the most beautiful urban spaces in Athens. Other events this year include screenings of classic films, special avant- premières, concerts and interactive events and street performances.

#CITY LIFE_what’ on

A disarmingly beautiful way to enjoy films and explore Athens, as generations of Greeks have been doing, at the 60-odd summer cinemas in the city.

Cine Paris

For a fun evening by the sea, Cine Flisvos at the Flisvos Marina is a great open-air option where you can have a long walk on the marina’s promenade admiring the yachts before grabbing some popcorn and settling in to watch a movie. While it might still be daylight and the surround sound might be more children’s natter and parents shushing them than Dolby, it still makes for a very convivial evening. An added plus is easy parking and several aftermovie drinks and dinner options in the Flisvos Marina complex. Cine Flisvos, Parko Flisvou, Palaio Faliro. Tel. +30 210.982.1256 Cine Floisvos All photos by Maria-Irene Moschonas athens insider

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Cine Flisvos

Dexameni So named after the cistern that it sits on that once supplied water to all of Athens, Dexameni square is a cool, green citysquare with an open-air cinema that has an island-like look and feel. With whitewashed cobbled pavements, labyrinthine alleys and cascading bougainvillea, it is remarkable how quickly the landscape changes from rushed and uberchic Kolonaki to rustic and laid-back Dexameni. No better venue to lounge in deck chairs and take in a movie with friends and family than Dexameni while a few hens scurry by. Complete with little tables to rest your soft drinks and nacho trays on, Dexameni is a great setting to spend a lazy, hazy, crazy summer evening. Dexameni, Dexameni Square, Kolonaki. Tel. +30 210.362.3942, +30 210.360.2363

Cine Thisio Built in 1935, Cine Thissio remains the undisputed queen of open-air cinemas. Voted by CNN’s Hoishan Chan as ‘the best movie-theatre in the world for being as interesting as the movies it shows’, Cine Thisio is a hot favourite both among film distributors for movie premieres as well as among cinephiles for watching re-runs. With a majestic view of the floodlit Acropolis, this outdoor cinema is located on Apostolou Pavlou street in the Thisio district, just a few hundred meters down the pedestrian path from the ancient Herodus Atticus theatre, which also opens in the summer for quality cultural events. Cine Thisio, Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio. Tel. +30 210.342.0864, +30 210.347.0980

#CITY LIFE_whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; on

Urban legend has it that it was a Greek hairdresser who named the outdoor cinema after her beloved Paris where she had spent a few years. Cine Paris briefly functioned as an indoor and out-door cinema and then closed down in the late â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;60s for almost 20 years before re-opening again in 1986. It has been regaling movie fans since with Greek and international hits and to date, Cine Paris is by far one of the most popular cinemas in the city. Located in the Plaka, it is a beloved of tourists and Athenians alike and has retained its magical old-world charm. Cine Paris, Kidathinaion 22, Plaka. Tel. +30 210.322.2071, +30 210.324.8057 athens insider

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Cine Paris

Amorgos, where the Big Blue legend lives on For a throwback to a simpler, almost monastic way of living â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a far-cry from its overly touristic Cycladic neighbours, Amorgos, with its hidden coves, unhurried charms and timeless intrigue still captures the romantic nostalgia of the film that shot it to international fame. But quite frankly, its psimeni raki â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that island elixir that makes the world a rosier place â&#x20AC;&#x201C; should alone be reason enough to visit this remote, seahorse-shaped island.

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“Welcome to Amorgos. Nobody will find you here,” reads a sign on this fair Cycladic isle’s harbour. That pretty much captures the vibe of this perfect recluse’s sanctuary. Amorgos’ fame flared brightly in 1988 when it was the backdrop for Luc Besson’s cult diving classic The Big Blue (then briefly again this year with the film’s 30th anniversary tributes). But this most eastern of the Cycladics infinitely prefers the quiet life. Dramatic shipwrecks, sea caves and to-die-for swimming and diving locales make it hard to beat for aquatic types. Swim all you like but compulsory viewing for all is the mindblowing 11th century Monastery of Hozoviotissa, carved into a vertiginous cliff and once home to 100 monks. Take your pick of Amorgos’ beautiful hiking trails, with the sea as your constant companion. The star spot for sunsets is lofty Kamari village but you’ll have to work for it: it’s reached by scaling hundreds of steps from Ano Potamos.

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Where to Stay: Perched 170 metres above Aegiali bay in the quaint mountain village of Tholaria, Vigla Amorgos combines an inviting pool deck with delicious home cooking. Doubles with breakfast from €85 (+30 22850 73288, www. vigla-amorgos.com)

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An Island to Call Your Own â&#x20AC;¦

Lemonakia

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This exceedingly beautiful and modest island – the birthplace of Pythagoras and Hera, Queen of the Gods - is one of the best-value-for-quality Greek destinations around, reports Amanda Dardanis.

t’s 3pm in Samos, the far-flung eastern Aegean island. The same mighty sun that once bore down on Antony and Cleopatra, when they stopped by on their summer hols in the first century BC, is at the height of its powers. I’m on a two-mile mostly uphill quest from pretty Limnionas Beach, on the island’s south-west, to reach remote local landmark “Taverna at the End of the World”. And if my luck is in, meet its eccentric host and master storyspinner Andreas Kotsos. It’s utterly the wrong time of day for a scenic hike in July. But the pull of legend is a fierce motivator. I lug myself around one final elongated arc of ravishing headland, and there it is. Set atop the craggy coastline, with a stupendous unblocked Aegean view, a utilitarian red-roofed abode squats next to a lone spinning wind turbine. Neat terraced vines and a flight of stone steps spill down to a secluded swimming cove. Andreas does not disappoint. When I appear on his shaded terrace, he’s midtall-tale: regaling a German family about some recent heroics involving a live scorpion. Kotsas, who has the heavy-browed look of Telly Savalas, quit Canada 19 years ago to hide out in this serene Eden where he serves up simplistic fare like feta-stuffed courgette flowers and fried sardines plucked from the seas below. He presents me with iced-water and a chilled plate of sliced prickly pear “on the house”, to cool me down. ‘People before profit,’ nods Andreas. ‘That’s the only way to survive. If you do good things, people will make the effort to come and find you.’ Truth is though, you don’t need to travel to the End of the World to escape the crowds in Samos right now. I find blissfully un-choked coastal roads, restaurant bills half the size of Athens and unpeopled beaches like Lemonakia, one of Samos’ most feted horseshoe bays, that unfurls below Villa Penny. Each morning, I come to swim just before 9, and find I’m the first to claim a sunbed on this winsome pine-clad stretch that has the feel of Sardinia. Try this in Paros in mid-July and see what happens.

For a fairly small island just 43km across, the Isle of Samos packs a big poetic legacy. It is quoted in the scriptures. Herodotus and Aesop dwelled here for long periods. Cleopatra and her lover made their doomed preparations for war against Rome. And in the modern age, Lord Byron was stirred to write his paean to the famous sweet Samos Muscat wine. According to mythology, it was also here that Hera married her brother Zeus, with a wedding night that lasted 300 years. While Pythagoras was busy cracking his right-angled triangle theorem, the enthusiastic tyrant Polycrates made Samos the centre of the Ionian World athens insider

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Once famous in the ancient world as a cosmopolitan island of leisure, intellectual spirit and abundance, humans have evidently lived well on Samos since about the third millennium BC.

in the sixth century BC by erecting such archeological, engineering and cultural marvels as the first artificial harbour in Pythagoria; Hera’s epic temple, the Heraion, once one-and-a-half times larger than the Parthenon; and the Tunnel of Eupalinus, a 1km water duct still lying underneath the mountain slopes of Panagia Spilani. The highbrow Polycrates offered his royal court as a spiritual salon for the world’s top thinkers of the day, and threw his vast library of significant texts open to all Samian citizens in order for them to self-educate. Under his rule, according to Herodotus, Samos rose to become one of the three most powerful city-states of the sea, alongside Athens and Knossos in Crete.

Modern Samos has lost this knack of marketing itself. Although for me, this is the island’s great draw. It’s one of the least cynical Greek islands you’ll visit; irksome taverna touts are few-onthe-ground. Possibly, it’s a residue from the island’s hippy days when the gypset camped out at turquoise-watered beaches like Tsamadou and Potami before catching the boat to Turkey. Or maybe it’s due to the quiet confidence that comes with self-sufficiency. Since antiquity, Samos’ luxuriant mountainous terrain and generous rainfall, has always granted it a working pulse outside of tourism. The island supplies its own excellent apples and apricots, almonds and onions, honey and herbs. It’s the only place in Greece that cultivates orchids for export. In winter months, you can watch flamingoes in the salt marshes of Psili Ammos, forage for wild mushrooms, or pluck ripe overhanging olives as you hike in traditional spring-fed mountain villages like Manolates. Year-round, you can visit honey and apple farms. Or tiny family-run wineries that survive on word of mouth: like the one belonging to Petros and Evaggelia Eleutheriou, in the working village of Stavrinides. I drop in on en-route to Sunday lunch. Even so, they force-feed me Samian pancakes sprinkled with goats cheese and their glorious honey, while we toast each other’s families under an age-old

plane tree with potent local ouzo “souma” and their best six-year-old Muscat.

Unlike the austere Cyclades, you always get the sense of nature being exuberantly alive all around you in Samos. The kissos vines that envelop the metal road barriers all the way down the coast. The deafening tzitzikas (cicada) chorus. The puddles of cranky goats that stream across the path as you drive. I’m staying at the neo-classical–style Villa Penny apartments run by retired police chief Dimitris Manoliadis and his wife Metaxia, on the outskirts of picturesque fishing village Kokkari. Fresh Samos spring water fills the pool and olive wood lines the fireplaces. Like most small hoteliers here, breakfast is a hospitable home-grown affair of freshly-baked bread with pumpkin seeds, Metaxia’s apricot jam, and eggs procured from the neighbour’s hen house. (Almost everyone eco-moonlights in Samos. Even the mayor has his own lavender oil farm). While there is a lively enough bar scene in attractive Vathy and the university

Schwartz Gallery

town Karlovasi, people don’t come for the nightlife. This is an island perfectly formed for exploration; where independent-minded folk return each year to plonk themselves down at characterful guesthouses for at least a month to hike, eat terrific food, and visit Samos’ stunning tranche of beaches. ‘There’s a gentle grace to Samos and that character hasn’t altered over the years,’ says Kellie Longhawn, a travel rep from Norfolk who’s been holidaying on the island since 1999, and now lives here year-round. ‘We haven’t had to watch the island we love change beyond all recognition like so many other Greek islands.’ There are still many intact island traditions like the fruit and vegetable trucks and mobile bakeries that you can hail from the side of the road to buy from, she tells me over a trip-best meal of stuffed wild mushrooms, chickpea balls (a Samian staple); and braised octopus at Enalion taverna in her quaint adopted Balos. On my last afternoon, I make the 40-minute scenic drive from Kokkari to Potami Beach in the north-west to “do” the sunset at Hippys, another unmissable Samos institution. I trek through a scruffy field of sunflowers to reach a long sand and pebble beach, where Hippy’s prime sunbeds cost just €3 each - perfectly aware that if this were Mykonos, there’d be an extra zero added just for fun. Random rock formations supply the drama; ambient Indian music and slouchy double divans, the Ibiza vibe. Settling in with a summer cocktail of Prosecco, Muscat and a single lazy swirl of orange peel, I’ve found my Happy Place for the day.

A walk at the end of the world athens insider

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Samos Highlights Tsamadou beach

Samos Wine Museum

Befriend the famous sweet muscat appellation in all its guises at this attractive stone wine museum on the Vathy waterfront. A tasting tour reveals the Samos Muscat’s surprisingly broad spectrum: from the dry dynamic whites Psiles Korfes and Golden Samena; to the sweeter labels popular in the UK like Samos Vin Douz and the Samos Anthemis (aged in French oak barrels for 5 years). Malagari, Vathi, +30 227.308.7511, www.samoswine.gr

Potami Waterfall Hike

Take Samos’ most memorable hiking trail in the mountains behind Potami beach where you’ll see Samos’ oldest church (10th century Metamorphosis) and wade through about 100 yards of chilly waters to reach the impressive Potami Waterfall. Tip: take some small change with you for a rest stop at the café midway along.

Open-air Cinema in Mitilinioi

Beloved by locals and tourists alike, experience the Greek summer ritual of cinema under the stars at the familyrun Cine Rex, where they give you free home-made honey donuts (loukoumades).

Located inland in elevated Mitilinioi village, among the lemon trees and basil plants. Most movies are in English. +30 227.305.1236.

Navagos at Tsamadou Beach

Settle in for the day at popular Navagos Beach Bar, on exquisite Tsamadou, near Kokkari. Bright umbrellas and stripy loungers sprawl across an expanse of gently-sloping lawn, overlooking a Caribbean-Dream bay – and all are completely free of charge! Tip: Tsamadou is former hippy HQ and locals call it “50 Shades of Blue”, thanks to the nudist strip still going strong on the beach’s right side.

Romantic Dining at Kokkari

This coveted tourist resort, about 10km from Vathy, is Samos’ Little Venice. Eat at stylish Italian Giro del Sole in pole position. Tip: Keep walking past the long pebbly beach to access the prettier harbour quarters on the western-side. It’s where Kokkari’s best charms are on display.

alpine villages in the north – Ambelos, Stavrinides and Manolates. They’re full of fetching ceramics and jewellery workshops, authentic tavernas, divine hiking trails with abundant springs and the inescapable Pythagoras Cup (if you overfill it, it runs dry, teaching us all that “when you’re greedy, you lose everything”).

Archaeology Digested

To gain a sense of Samos’ rich cultural backstory, visit the Archeological Museum of Samos (hosting the 5.35m-tall “Kouros of Samos” and Greece’s best preserved Kouros statue); the Archeological Museum of Pythagorio (notable exhibits include a Venus statue and tombstone of Lucius); and the Heraion of Samos: the coastal ruins of Hera’s once mighty temple with its Sacred Way and lone surviving Ionic column; once host to fertility rites and prestigious sporting tournaments for the ancient world. •

Mountain Life

Take time-out from the beaches and explore Samos’ beautiful trio of working

* This article was first published in The Times.

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5 Holidays in Greece that Will Change You! It’s not enough anymore to simply switch on our out of office reply and slip away to re-charge our batteries on a simple sun ‘n sea holiday. Now, it’s all about innovative itineraries to help us to learn, grow and change. And perhaps, come back a different (read better) person. Amanda Dardanis suggests 5 transformative holiday experiences in Greece that will have you rolling in the deep and totally on-trend. Azul Yoga and Pilates Retreat, Santorini

Spectacular Santorini gives us a stark reminder of Nature’s strength. This famous Cycladic island’s sultry black volcanic beaches and awesome crescent of multi-coloured cliffs jutting into the sky from a sea-drowned caldera are legacy of the most violent eruption in recorded history. Draw on these powerful elements of fire and water to rejuvenate your body and soul on a week-long retreat combining Vinyasa & Yin Yoga, Pilates & Meditation. Azul Yoga and Pilates Retreat runs a highly-regarded programme that pledges to return you to yourself and leave you restored and cleansed in this epic locale that imprints its mysterious energy on all who visit. You’ll stay in cheerful bungalow-style lodgings surrounded by fig trees in the sunset capital of Oia and enjoy healthy organic meals (mostly vegetarian) sourced from the retreat’s garden while you embark on their fun and challenging programme. With no previous experience required, your teachers this year will be Rachel Blunt, a former Youth and Community ‘Street Worker’ who now uses her skills “to support and guide people to explore their full potential through yoga” and Jo Dombernowsky, an advanced Pilates instructor and Ayurveda practitioner known for her fun and wise approach. You can also enjoy massages at the retreat. Azul Yoga and Pilates Retreat will host two eight-day programmes in Santorini in 2018. The cost of the course is €1075 per person for a shared room and €1325 for a private room (triples and quads are also available). Breakfasts and 7 organic vegetarian or seafood based evening meals are included. Visit www.azulfit.com for more information.

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Here’s your chance to explore your untapped creativity and perform an MOT on the state of your inner-self on a guided art holiday encounter while staying in a luxurious hilltop villa in a tranquil pocket of Crete. Artful Retreats, founded by Penelope Orphanoudaki five years ago, is a creative wellness concept based on the documented healing effects of the artmaking process. Inspired from art therapy principles (used since the 1960s, initially to treat disabled children and soldiers returning from traumatic service), the bedrock of Penelope’s retreats is personal growth in a social creative environment. The aim is to help guests freely express their creativity and learn about themselves through self-reflection and group interaction. Forget all your notions of a hippy artists’ commune though: your lodging are Bleverde, a beautiful contemporary stone house with panoramic pool terrace offering undulating views to inspire your inner artist and a strong focus on great local gastronomy. No previous art experience is required. Only the willingness to embark on a journey of self-discovery. Your daily routine will be enriched with yoga classes and by drawing inspiration from local artists who you’ll visit at their studios. Artful Retreats will hold two four-day retreats in Bleverde, Crete in 2018. Prices start from around €860. Visit www.artfulretreats.com for more information. athens insider

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Artful Retreats, Crete

Kalikalos Holistic Network, Pelion

Live, work, share and play with people you’ve just met on an authentic community holiday adventure at one of Kalikalos Holistic Network’s three centres on verdant Mount Pelion, in mainland Greece. Kalikalos is an alternative holiday centre billed as offering hands-on learning about the holistic lifestyle, from May through to September. Here, “community” is the key to a more peaceful existence of partnership, and sustainability, according to founder Jock Millenson, an American psychologist who spent time in California, studied herbal medicine, joined an ecovillage in northern Scotland (the Findhorn community on which Kalikalos is based), and has also worked at the Skyros Centre, another alternative holiday destination (see above). All of the activities at Kalikalos are built around healing – of self, society and the planet – along with interpersonal communication, creativity, sustainable economics and self-inquiry. Community holidays are not for everyone. Independent types, late risers and those who don’t like following rules (such as no talking on the veranda after 11pm when Ashram mode kicks in or being woken by a bell daily at 8:30am for breakfast) mightn’t gel with the concept. But you can dip in as much or as little as you like. Some prefer to merely contribute the required seven hours a week of community chores (things like helping with the dishes and cooking rota or pitching in to help tend the vegetable patch) without attending any of the scheduled events such as the morning sharing circles, movie nights or tai chi. Our pick of the three centres is the sanctuary-like Alexandros campus. It’s nestled in a luxuriant olive grove with panoramic views, near splendid Plaka Beach and with access to some superb hiking paths. Specific week-long programmes at Alexandros during the 2018 season include intuitive dance, radical honesty, creative writing and spring walking holidays and range in price from about €310-700. Visit www.kalikalos.com for more information.

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Back in 1977, more than half a century before ‘transformative travel’ became a buzzword at dinner parties, former political journalist Yannis Andricopoulos and psychotherapist Dina Glouberman bid farewell to London’s Golders Green and moved to the remote Sporadic island of Skyros where they presciently converted an old derelict stone school house into an “holistic” centre known as the Skyros Centre. It would become Europe’s first alternative holiday hub for independently-minded travellers. These days, the island of Skyros retains its wonderfully distinct Greek character, while the creative retreat still wins rave reviews from travel scribes from all around the world, thanks to its mindexpanding itineraries and chilled locale. Running from early June to late September, the programmes go well beyond just yoga to also include theatre performances, writing and music workshops, dance, art, photography, massage lessons, mindfulness and more. You can stay either at the Skyros Centre’s main building on Atsitsa Bay, in the beach huts situated in the verdant garden, or in the picturesque hilltop village of Skyros itself where you can lose yourself (and find yourself) within pretty cobbled lanes. Prices start from around €745 a week and include daily (optional) yoga classes, one three-hour creative course per day for five days, breakfast and lunch and twin-shared accommodation in the village or by the sea. Their next retreat starts July 7. Visit www.skyros.com for more information. athens insider

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Skyros Centre, Skyros

Euphoria Retreat, Mystras This summer, embrace the ancient Greek concept of “εὐφορία” (a blissful and wellbalanced life) at a novel new holistic spa destination due to open its doors on the outskirts of medieval Mystras, about one hour from Kalamata. How energy flows within our bodies and how our bodies are influenced by the cosmos is the central pillar of the upscale Euphoria experience. Pitched perfectly for this era of deeper travel, Euphoria Retreat promises a transformative encounter through a melodic marriage of ancient Greek and Chinese philosophies and treatments, devised to help you lead a happier, healthier and more balanced existence. The spa will offer personalised healing programmes built around the fundamental elements of Water, Wood, Fire, Earth and Metal, while also being rooted in modern medicine and science. Sign up for a signature seven-day “Emotional and Physical Transformation” programme comprising luxury spa and massage treatments, healing practices, wellness coaching and fitness activities focused on inducing sustained harmony. Dine during your stay on nutritionally-elevated cuisine served in the panoramic Gaia restaurant. The backdrop is glorious - all mountains, sweeping valleys and citrus groves – while the aesthetics appear ravishing too. Elegant curves of domes and arches blend within a soothing palette of yellows and golds, in a seductively modern reboot of classical Byzantine colours and iconography.

Prices start at about €530 per night for a double room with full-board and daily entrance to all scheduled activities and spa facilities. Visit www.euphoriaretreat.com for more information.

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Art on the Islands

Tamsin Paternoster travels to the islands and culls out a few highlights on the summer arts calendar. As the summer begins, art imitates life in the mass exodus from the city into the world of mainland Greece and its islands, as summer art programmes and festivals across the country prepare to do what Greeks do best, for better or for worse: Express themselves.

rom Hydra, Greece’s traditional artisan retreat where art collectors from the world over convene, to Samos, where the Schwarz Foundation organises a small, familiar yet elegant meeting of international artists, Greek islands are abuzz with art and music festivals. Perhaps a healthy mix of art and island life coupled with a sobering dose of reality might do everyone good this summer. Of course, if visual arts doesn’t cut it and the festivals don’t appeal, there are always the many museums, restaurants or local festivals you might discover along the way. And if all else fails, there is also the summer sun, the silver light of the moon, the soft lapping of the Mediterranean Sea, the murmur of cicadas, and the view of the infinite horizon to contemplate. Some might say those incredible views that rise and fall from the sea make up the true artistry of Greece.

Costas Paniaras at CITRONNE Gallery, Poros

Costas Paniaras

WHAT: The CITRONNE Gallery opens with the double individual exhibition of Costas Paniaras on the 19th May. Coorganised with the Epirus of Antiquities of Piraeus and Islands, the exhibition attempts to give a complete picture to the complex personality and visual artistic pursuit of the Greek artist. WHEN: From May 19 WHERE: Poros Island Leof. Papadopoulou, Poros 180 20, Tel. +30 2298022401

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Todd James at Dio Horia in Mykonos

WHAT: Todd James presents The Gods Are Smiling on Us, a product of his twoweek long residency in Mykonos. James has created 9 new paintings and 12 new drawings in addition to works inspired by his residency trip to Mykonos, mostly bikini clad women on holiday in his vibrant palette. WHEN: June 15 - July 10 WHERE: Panahra Square, Greece Mikonos 846 00, Mykonos, Tel. +30 6944.723636, www.diohoria.com

Todd James

Laughterhouse, Deste Foundation Project Space, Hydra

WHAT: Laughterhouse is a presentation of a documentary film about goats whose cries sound like those of human beings. The project combines music and documentary in a special space. It is located in the island’s old slaughterhouse, granted to DESTE by the Municipality of the Island of Hydra in 2008. The Foundation hosts a series of contemporary art exhibitions on the island every summer. WHEN: June 19 – September 30 WHERE: DESTE Foundation Project Space Hydra slaughterhouse. Tel. +30 210.275.8490, www.deste.gr

Triangular Project Exhibition

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The Museum of Contemporary Art of the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation, Andros

WHAT: The Museum of Contemporary Art of the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation will be organizing a tribute to the elusive and infamous Dimitris Mytaras. With an art career spanning almost sixty years, Mytaras’ artwork showcases skillfully intertwined contradictory elements. The tribute is composed of sections showcasing the artist at different points of his creative journey. WHEN: July 1 – September 30 WHERE: Museum of Contemporary Art, Andros Island, Leof. Kallirrois Avenue & Amvr. Frantzi Street, Tel. +30 211.101.9000

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WHAT: Triangular Project is a collective of visual artists working with the theme of space. The exhibition showcases the artistic practices of Florine Leoni (Switzerland), Macarena Ruiz- Tagle (Chile) and Sandra Volny (Canada). Their interests and actions are intertwined with the local community’s culture, history and geography and they practice experimentation when approaching the environment. WHEN: June 25 – September 30 WHERE: Ionion Center for the Arts and Culture, Kefalonia.

Tsak Bam Festival 2018 Celebrates Spontaneous Art

WHAT: The second edition of a festival that honors a hodgepodge of experimental public performances. Tsak Bam Festival is a festival of nonconformity, one that encourages atypical contemporary performances, and in its second run, Tsak Bam will span three days. The spontaneous performances will take place on the island of Aegina, where the Yurt and the pistachio field surrounding it will be transformed into a series of makeshift stages for plays, installations, film screenings, musical performances and visual arts. Tsak Bam will also feature workshops for both children and adults in the Mikro Sudio, including the basics to African drumming, theatrical improv and movement courses. WHEN: July 6 - 8 WHERE: Island of Aegina in Yurt, Kavouropetra area, Tel. + 30 6936.071.242, www.tsakbamfestival.gr

Antiparos Photo Festival

WHAT: According to the British Journal of Photography, the Antiparos International Photo Festival (AIPF) is probably the smallest international photography festival in the world. Held in a 15th century castle on the tiny island of Antiparos, the open air festival exhibits the work of 15 photographers carefully selected on technical and artistic merit. A nonprofit association, the festival has drawn photographers from all around the world, emphasizing young up-and-coming talent as well as experienced professionals. Being one of the few festivals to be open air, the AIPF takes place in subtle lighting, in conjunction with musical performances, creating a unique and unforgettable experience. WHEN: July 7 -16 WHERE: Located in a 15th century castle on the Cycladic island of Antiparos, www.antiparosphotofestival.com

Paros Festival

WHAT: Paros Festival is a three- day cultural event in the islands capital town. The festival aims to promote the diverse culture of Paros and its people. The festival has a broad programme including exhibitions, screenings, concerts, discussions, lectures, guided tours, educational programs for children and adults and workshops with local craftsmen. WHEN: July 13 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 15 WHERE: Parikia, Paros, www.festivalparos.gr

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Festival of the Aegean

Peter Tiboris at the Festival of the Aegean

14th Festival of the Aegean

Syros International Film Festival

WHAT: A wide spectrum of cinema showcased in traditional and repurposed island sites. A varied programme including events, styles, workshops, cinema performance and programmes; experimental and narrative, recent and retrospective, Greek and international. Creating an immersive dreamscape the festival allows us to reconsider the question of ‘What is cinema’? Individual tickets and general passes are available for sale at the SIFF kiosk on Miaouli Square, in Hermoupolis from July 15th. WHEN: July 17 - 22 WHERE: Various sites on Syros Island, www.syrosfilmfestival.org athens insider

Syros International Film Festival

Paros Jazz Festival

WHAT: Paros Jazz Festival is a weeklong Jazz Festival held every year on the stunning Paros island. Inviting more than 100 Jazz students, 30 artists and 5000 concert visitors from all over the world, the festival aims to bring as many talented and inspired musicians as possible to Paros Island. It was originally started as a Greek – French collaboration the ‘ParisParos Project’ and slowly evolved from an International Jazz workshop into a festival. WHEN: July 23 WHERE: Paros Park on Paros Island, Tel. +30 6934338578, www.jazzinparos.gr

Anemi Festival, Folegandros

WHAT: The Anemi Festival, currently in its third year, takes place in Folegandros’ Chora and in the port of Karavostassi. The festival brings big names of the Greek music scene such as Katerina Polemis, performing on the first night. The talented performer and composer will join award-winning Vangelis Tountas on the violin, singing Greek love songs as, well –known international songs and her own compositions in the show ‘Love, love, love’. WHEN: July 26-28 WHERE: Folegandros Island, Chora and the port of Karavostassi www.allaboutfestivals.gr

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WHAT: The island of Syros presents the fourteenth season of Greece’s renowned cultural festival, the Festival of the Aegean. The festival’s fourteenth run, which will feature the Pan-European Philharmonia of Warsaw, Poland, is set to command Syros with its refined musicality. Honoring the late Italian composer Gioachino Rossini, the festival will showcase performances of Rossini’s taxing orchestral arrangement of Stabat Mater. Major events will take place in the Apollo Theater and St. Nicholas Church. WHEN: July 15-29 WHERE: Varying locations on Syros, Tel. +30 210. 723.4567, www.ticketsrvices.gr

Eye’s Walk Festival

WHAT: A unique blend of Syros’ architectural heritage and contemporary video art, the festival is a unique opportunity to experience art in an island setting. International artists have produced video art and installations in the neoclassical buildings of Ermoupolis. This year’s edition highlights the European cultural identity of Syros in comparison to other Mediterranean countries. WHEN: July 27 - 29 WHERE: Ano Syros

Samos Young Artists Festival, The Schwarz Foundation Eye’s Walk Festival

Samos Young Artists Festival

Tinos Jazz Festival

WHAT: From August 7th until August 14th internationally renowned artists from all over the world are coming to Samos. The Festival will feature eight open-air concerts from artists coming from Germany, Greece, Georgia, France, Turkey, the U.S, Russia, and China. Held in the Ancient Theatre of Pythagorian, the Festival’s artistic directors have created this year’s programme with the vision of bridging cultural and national divides. From 18th and 19th century European classics to Italian Baroque music, contemporary music to traditional Mediterranean sounds, the festival concludes with a stellar recital from the winner of the Concours Geza Anda 2018 triennial international piano competition. WHEN: August 7 - 14 WHERE: Art Space Pythagorion, Samos Island, www.schwarzfoundation.com

Tinos Jazz Festival

WHAT: Launched in 2009, Tinos Jazz music festival is dedicated to a different theme each year. Growing in size each year, the festival has evolved to promote artists with recent releases and gifted young musicians. The festival is free in compliance with the Cultural Foundation’s public benefit purpose, which aims to promote contemporary music to the island. Tinos Jazz Festival presents high quality international and Greek top musicians as well as Greek new talent. A unique forum for contemporary and future jazz, the festival offers the opportunity to immerse yourself with jazz in all forms in the stunning setting of Tinos Island, with its blue seas and skies. WHEN: August 25 - 27 WHERE: Cultural Foundation of Tinos, 84200, Tinos, Cyclades, Tel. +30 228.302.9070, www.tinosjazz.com

OUT NOW! A laugh-out-loud informative guide to the colourful linguistic secrets of the Greeks, written by seasoned journalist and Athens Insider columnist John Carr (with Paul Anastasi), and accompanied by wonderfully humourous sketches by Iason Iliades.

Discover the answer to these and many other quirky colloquialisms – including the enduring mystery of Mrs Alexander’s buttons! A perfect gift for anyone who intends to spend time in Greece and get under the skin of the local culture.

AVAILABLE AT ATHENSINSIDER.COM AND AT ALL LEADING BOOKSTORES IN ATHENS FOR JUST €9.99 athens insider

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* What do you do when you “do the duck?”? * Why you don’t want to “eat soup” in Greece! * What happens when you “become billiard balls”?

Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a Beach Greek summer all by itself can become a reason for existing and makes up for all the inconveniences experienced, not only in this specific country but also on the whole of this irrational planet: lying under the sun with no other stress and worry than the next plunge may permanently open the gates to another state of mind, even for the stricter souls.

oughly speaking, Greek beaches may be divided into two distinct categories:

1. The easily accessible, well-known spot 2. The untamed, rough and tough-to-conquer/out-of sight spot The first is ideal for couples with kids who are looking for a certainty in relaxation and enjoyment. The second is ideal for couples without kids, willing to conceive them on a beach. Readers not belonging to any of the abovementioned categories are welcome to find their identity by trying both.

Behaviour tips for the beach

Dress code The good thing about Greek beaches is that they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a particular dress code: you can wear whatever you like, or not wear whatever you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like. The bad thing is that you never know who will be sitting next to you and what their reaction may be to the overelimination of clothing. In other words, nudism is not officially allowed unless otherwise stated and may become a nuisance if arbitrarily performed, mostly in front of Greek kid-carrying families. Topless females are generally considered a normality, but still it is wise to notice if any other woman is offering her breasts freely to the sun before you do it yourself. The chances for sexual harassment are few, so you can take the risk, but anticipate multiple comments in Greek, illuminating every move you make.

#CITY LIFE_beaches

Environment Greeks love their environment tidy and clean, as long as else someone else keeps it like that for their sake. Otherwise, they will treat it like a huge waste bin, appropriate for any type of paper, empty packs of cigarettes, or whatever else is useless to its owner. As a result, the end of summer finds beaches decorated with colourful, worthless stuff that you will hardly find appealing. Summer loving Greek summer is an ideal space-time concurrence for passionate lovers: tanning makes everyone look more beautiful and all the warmth gathered during daytime is desperately looking for an outlet, otherwise bodies will explode. As a result, the famous Greek line “s’agapo” (I love you) is a diachronic summer motto, and if you are single, sooner or later you will possibly hear it too. But summer loves are not the most enduring creations… There is a special category of Greeks who are fond of female tourists and devote their whole summer to them. They are called kamakia (kamaki, in the singular, means harpoon) and are easily discernible from a distance by the way they dress: flashy clothes revealing gold chains with gold crosses resting on hairy chests. Their eyes will follow any curve that moves (the bigger the better) while clearly reflecting their idyllic, orgasmic thoughts. The original kamaki ignores the notion of embarrassment and will approach his prey at the speed of light. He is usually a self-taught English speaker so don’t expect to have the talk of your life, but be prepared to hear the most flattering phrases coming out of his mouth. While looking you straight in the eyes, he will use his sexiest voice to say: ‘I love you’, ‘You are the most beautiful girl I have ever seen’, ‘Do you want to marry me, right here, right now?’ etc. The game is athens insider

Greek summer is an ideal space-time concurrence for passionate lovers: tanning makes everyone look more beautiful and all the warmth gathered during daytime is desperately looking for an outlet, otherwise bodies will explode.

now up to you to decide whether you will spend the night with him or not. In fact, kamakia are quite difficult to avoid after you have exchanged a couple of lines with them – they will normally hunt you for the rest of the night until you finally say yes, but do not feel obliged to do so. An easy way to get away with them is to imply that you are a lesbian – they will anyway reach their conclusion it if you don’t spend the night with them, so why not give them a helping hand? Most Greek men are far more decent in flirting than kamakia, but still more expressive and outgoing than northern westerners. They will normally show their interest by looking at you quite persistently and will attempt contact by offering some type of service. From buying you a drink to carrying your bag or offering to spread tanning oil on your back, their intension is to open a door to an acquaintance that might lead to mutual sexual pleasures. Greek women, on the other hand, are far more inaccessible than men, and they may even appear snobbish or not interested in meeting any guy, not to mention a tourist. It is said that if you manage to take them to bed, they will hardly let you down, but the way towards there is so long that few males are willing to waste such energy and patience during their summer holidays. •

Excerpt from ‘Greek it! A Traveller’s Guide to the Modern Greek Soul’ by Vicky Nikolaidou.

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Games Getting the perfect tan requires patience and some time (the whiter the skin, the longer the effort). As a result, Greek beaches become ideal playgrounds: balls fly all over, kids scream in ecstasy, parents eat to forget the pain of existence and everyone is led by the will to feel young and free. The typical beach sport is playing racquets – a major threat for the sleepy bathers, who will undoubtedly receive a ball in the head right at the moment when they are falling asleep. Backgammon is a beloved pastime and also much noisier than it seems at first sight.

Greek Beach Survival Kit Life is a beach. Whether it is a sandy or pebbled one, you need a few beach accessories to make it come alive. What distinguishes a Greek beach from any other? The sound of rackets, of dice being passionately flung around a backgammon board and of the tinkling of ice cubes into a chilled glass of ouzo. Other beach-musts include the frappe, whirring hand-fans and mats. To the backdrop of childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s joyous shrieks and their watered down sand-castles, the sea beckons. Plunge right in. All photos by Maria-Irene Moschonas

Beach racquets that make quite a racket.

Sand buckets, shovels and pails.

Hone your backgammon skills while beaching...

Frappe, Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s caffeine contribution to the world!

#GREEK #CITY SUMMER_what’ LIFE_beaches on

Elegant fans to keep your cool at all times.

The quintessential lazy swimmer’s accessory, flippers.

Ouzo, Greek summer in a glass. athens insider

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Rolled-up beach mats.

A Whiff of the Aegean You’re coming to the end of your Greek sojourn and want to return with edible souvenirs that, with one bite, will bring you back to the Aegean. Or perhaps you live here, but are heading home for holidays, and need some tasty treats to bestow upon friends and relatives. Peerless as Greek olives and olive oil are, they use up valuable weight in one’s luggage, and there’s always the worry that the lids will ease ajar under pressure, and you’ll arrive to find your clothes liberally doused with indelible stains and smelling more potent than a freshly-blended tapenade. Instead, for the gourmet gallivantor, Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou picks out five goodies that are light, spill-safe, and quintessentially Greek.

1. Their frail looks are deceptive: just a pinch of saffron threads adds a pungent, mysterious tang to everything from tea to desserts to traditional pilaff. Pick up a pocket-sized packet of organic saffron from the Krokos Cooperative in Kozani (the only region in Greece to produce it) at your local supermarket or organic store. Visit www.safran.gr for details on Krokos Cooperative.

Saffron

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4. Raw pistachio nuts from the isle of Aegina pack a powerful energy punch, and are loaded with vitamins, minerals and hearthealthy fats. Just a handful a day can keep the doctor away (more, and those calories start adding up). You can buy them up in their shells at most supermarkets, but for a more irresistible proposition, visit Carpo to choose a bag-full of beautiful duskypink raw kernels. While you’re there, try the energy nut mix with pistachios, walnuts and wild-flower honey too – ideal to scatter over your morning yoghurt to kick-start the system. Shops in Kolonaki, Psychico; www.carpoathens.com Oregano

2. No matter how good your tomatoes, olive oil and feta, your Horiatiki salad just won’t taste authentic without a generous shake of oregano across the top. Eschew the tame versions from cultivated crops, and instead pick up an elegant 10gr cylinder (which fits neatly into even the most overstuffed holiday holdall) from Harmonian, packed full of rigani from wild shrubs on the Pindos mountains.

3. They’re nicknamed Greek nachos, but these more-ish baked snacks are a far cry from the additive-laden pseudoMexican bites that the name conjures up for most of us. Marcitos ‘lazanofyla’ (lasagne sheets) from Hiotiko Kellari are handmade with fresh potato and spinach, and free from artificial colours and flavours. Try them with the wonderfully intense Black Olive and Walnut spread by Simply Greek.

Visit www.harmonian.cc for details on stockists.

From Krokos, Vyronos 6, Plaka, and delis around Athens.

5. The Ancient Greeks thrived on seed and honey snacks, while for generations of modern Greeks, flat packs of pasteli were a childhood staple. The original energy bar, for a quick pick-me-up there’s little to rival roasted, honey-pressed sesame crunch. Some are brittle enough to chip a tooth, but the flaked version by Ergon gets top marks for taste and texture, as well as presentation. From selected delis and at Ergon, Nea Erythrea.

Sesame seed bar athens insider

Pistachio nuts

La vie en rosĂŠ

#TRAVEL_fave five

For too long, rosé wines languished at the Liebfraumilch and Babycham end of the wine league tables: the Barbie-toned bottle left undrunk at BYOB parties; the choice for the likes of Joey from Friends’ dates (blush Zinfandel, to be precise), or drunk with an ironic smirk by kitsch-lovers. But in recent years, pink wines have shed their inferiority complex (along with their sugars), and emerged sleeker and drier to enjoy a surge of popularity as drinkers discover their light and easy appeal, and palatable prices, finds Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou.

he burgeoning harvest of Greek rosé wines can make an ideal accompaniment to sunny spring days and light meze meals, pairing perfectly with salads and ladera dishes, cheese or pasta. They can even hold their own at a barbecue, as they balance grilled meats without provoking them. Pick up some of the following at your local cava, and enjoy with a long, lazy Sunday lunch. Life starting to look rosier already?

1. Claudia Papaioannou Rosé A fine, cultured wine using Grenache Rouge and Syrah grapes, with a pomegranate blush and sweet aromas of red fruits, Claudia Papaioannou Rosé, sounds delicate but is rounded and rich enough in the mouth to be matched with almost any foods – or just enjoyed by itself on a balmy spring evening.

4. Vivlia Hora Rosé Just about everything Vangelis Gerovasileiou and his winemaking partner at Vivlia Hora, Vasilis Tsaktsarlis, make drinks like nectar of the gods, and their rosé is no exception. It’s a one variety wine (Syrah) that exudes aromas of blueberries, cherries and raspberries, with lasting spicy notes. In a word: delicious. 5. Amyntaion Rosé Sec We served this on our wedding day, popping the corks on a sunny summer’s day outside St Mary the Virgin in Oxford. Made by the Amyntaion Cooperative, it’s a robust sparkling wine, with wonderful strawberry notes, exuberant bubbles and balanced acidity, and what’s more, priced at around 11 euros, it offers great value for money. Whether a wedding day or just any regular Friday, this pink bubbly puts you in the mood for celebration.

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2. Vyssinokipos, Ktima Palivou Nemean Agiorgitiko grapes are known for their vivid, velvety reds, but they also make a very refreshing rosé. With notes of cherry, raspberry and caramel, underlined with intense tannins, this wine from Ktima Palivou blends the local variety with Syrah with exceedingly drinkable results.

3. Ambelones Thymiopoulou Rosé Following his success with full-bodied reds, Apostolos Thymiopoulos decided to try his hand at rosé, using the same Xinomavro variety. The result keeps the tomato tones of this northern Greek grape, but its ageing in oak barrels tames those tannins.

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The New Cool: Eight Super Designer Gelato Bars Remember the Frozen Yoghurt Invasion of a few years back? Well, now it’s ice-cream that’s gone all posh and seemingly multiplied on the streets of Athens of late. From waffles to gluten-free cones and vegan ice-creams, to flavours that range from spicy cardamom to salted peanut butter, Athens is fast acquiring the crown as the Queen of Cool. Athens Insider has the scoop on the eight most mouth-watering deluxe gelato bars to hit town. Long Live the Big Chill. Research by Krysta Foteinopoulou

Ninnolo

Despite some pretty heated (or should we say chilled) local competition, Ninnolo is a leading player in the turf war for best icecream artisan in Kifissia. This popular northern suburbs cafe has forged a rep for heavenly home-made gelato using only the best ingredients on the planet – without butter, cream or eggs! An atmospheric meet-up spot in the heart of Kifissia, now Northerners can also enjoy Ninnolo’s ice- cream at home: they’ve just established a local delivery option. Top Scoops: Exotic Brazilian fruit sorbets (passion fruit, guava, acai berry); the famous nocciola with hazelnut from Piemonte of Italy; the best chocolate in the world from Africa; and the magnificent limited-edition vanilla from the Seychelles. Agiou Dimitriou 8, Tel. +30 210.801.2765 Price: €20/kg

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Kayak

Kayak – in pole position in central Glyfada (on the old Oscars’ site) – has managed to see off much of its competition in recent years. With “boutique-styled” branches also in Mykonos, Kifissia and Costa Navarino, you know that this is prime designer ice cream territory. Kayak keeps rolling out the hits: at last count, they have created more than 60 different ice cream flavors - but the bestsellers are: Organic Madagascar Vanilla, Mastic & Pink Pepper, Melomakarono Ice Cream and Mint Choco Chips. Top Scoops: Champagne with pink roses; and frozen yogurt with passion fruit. I. Metaxa 24-26 & Zisimopoulou 9, Tel. +30 210.894.9130 Price: €21,60/kg

Zillion’s

Ice cream is not just for summer at Zillion’s – the new kid on the block in Kifissia that tempts the soul year round with its creative frozen delights. Like the other ice-cream purveyors on this page, Zillion’s also pledges home-made authentic Italian-style products from fresh and pure ingredients. Zillion’s has released 36 different ice cream flavors to date. Top Scoops: Fondente chocolate (chocolate with 70% cocoa); Peanut hazelnut, Pavlova, and Oreo biscuit ice cream. Dionyssou 69, Kifissia, Tel. +30 210.620.1211 Price: €18,50 /kg

A small but perfectly formed ice cream boutique in downtown Athens which fuses Italian expertise with premium Greek raw materials. Le Greche uses superior ingredients without artificial additives and margarine or colorings, (and their dreamy concoctions contain only 8% fat!). Plus they use only seasonal fresh fruits, the finest chocolate in the land – and pack a genuine conscience about their products’ nutritional value. Top Scoops: Try the ice-cream sandwiches topped with grilled pistachios; chocolate icecream with rum and prunes; ricotta with bergamot and Aperol, and mascarpone with Kalamata figs. Mitropoleos 16, Syntagma, Tel. +30 216.700.6458 www.legreche.gr Price: €21/kg athens insider

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Le Greche

Waffle House

With its prime Athenian Riviera locale, the Waffle House combines a delectable palette of sorbets and ice-cream with impressive Vouliagmeni Bay vistas, to deliver the “complete chill” experience. Indulge in one of the Waffle House’s signature piping hot waffles and waffins (somewhere between a mini-waffle and a muffin!) at the same time as your icecream splurge. It’d be rude not to. Top Scoops: The Ferrero Rocher, Kinder Bueno, Maltesers and Snickers balls are pure ice-cream porn for choco-philes across the land. Other irresistible new hits include: chocolate with banana cubes; lime with basilicum; and white chocolate with Baileys. Leof. Poseidonos 17, Vouliagmeni, Tel. +30 210.896.1227 Price: €18, 50/kg

Bufala Gelato

Billing itself as “The cream of icecreams”, Glyfada’s newest and brightest gelato purveyor Bufala Gelato isn’t here to pull any punches. The Thessaloniki-launched franchise has the Unique Sales Proposition of using buffalo milk in its products, (it apparently has lower cholesterol and more calcium, iron and phosphorus than cow’s milk). But for us the real crowd puller is the Cold Stone: where you can create your own personalised ice-cream flavors from a Willy Wonka-worthy trove of ingredients (30 different choices) and see it made in front of you in an openlive show. Top Scoops: Pavlova (white chocolate gelato, strawberry jelly, Strawberry, meringues) and American Breakfast (Peanut Gelato, Oat Cookies, Salted Caramel, Nuts). Artemidos, Esperidon Square, Glyfada, Tel. +30 210.894.6000 Price: €18-€20/kg

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IceRolls

You know what’s better than having an icecream? Watching it being crafted under your very nose. They score on the drool quotient, make the waiting that much sweeter and it is well worth it! IceRoll, an innovative ice cream parlour that prides itself on customizing your own ice cream, is as much a visual treat as a sensory one. Ice-cream maestros crush your chosen ingredients together and prepare your ice cream in traditional Thai rolls with the precision and flourish of a manic sushi chef. Plus, all the ingredients are fresh and locally sourced with no additives and lurid dyes! More-ish portions, so what’s not to like? Top Scoops: IceRoll does not limit customers to menu items. Customers can mix and match flavours to their liking. Try the chocolate overload if you’re looking for something hearty and delicious or the bougatsa if you’re feeling traditional. Giannitsopoulou 2, Glyfada, Tel. +30 210. 894.5009 Price: €6-€8/serving

After finding its feet in Mykonos in 2012, the kind folk at Da Vinci are now spreading the joy of their divine homemade Italian-styled gelato concoctions across Athens (with stores in Monastiraki, Plaka, Varkiza and Kifissia at last count). Best of all, the Monastiraki branch in Adrianou is open 24-7 to vanquish all your sweet cravings any time of day or night. Da Vinci’s signature philosophy rests on a balance of seasonality and the absence of additives, dyes and hydrogenated fats (plus a selection of 0% fat free options to sweeten the deal!). Top Scoops: Ricotta with fig Millefeuille, Grandma Cookies, Mojito, Apple Pie. Adrianou 50, Monastiraki, Tel. +30 210.325.3893 Selley 4, Plaka, Tel. +30 210.322.6046 Price: €16/kg

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Da Vinci Artisan Gelato

Where to Dine in Athens … Right Now! Athens’ giddy food revolution is in overdrive. From grill-houses where meat rules the roost to retro meze mansions and gourmet enclave, Athens Insider breaks it down to the coolest 6 most eligible new dining addresses for you to discover.

PARLA

Captained by Thodoris Papanikolaou - the gastro-genius who brought us such sophisticated tastes at Sense Fine Dining at AthensWas - Parla has just taken up residence in a charming aristocratic dwelling in Kifissia (next door to Cava Vinifera). Lovers of top-notch Italian cuisine (and face it, isn’t that pretty much everyone?) will find much to delight their palate on a menu which champions the fulsome flavours of the Tuscany and Emilia Romagna regions through a repertoire of homemade pastas, meat and fish dishes and Papanikolaou’s trademark avant-garde creations. Go to enjoy simply superb food in a stylish setting and during the summer season, try to snare a table in the dreamy garden courtyard. Esteemed bar-star Andreas Dimitropoulos has crafted an Italian-tilted cocktail list that you’ll want to get on friendly terms with, especially the spicy Ciao Bello! As the name suggests, newcomer Parla has given Athens’ foodies much to talk about! Leoforos Kifissias 317, Kifissia. Tel. +30 210.620.2890

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LEFKES ON THE SIDE

Cresting off his success in Santorini, gourmet innovator Tasos Doumas and his team have opened up shop right here in Athens, bringing with them a welcome taste of the Cycladic via a lush garden, vintage decorations lining the walls and loads of natural light. Lefkes exhibits an impressive, state-of-the-art open kitchen decorated in marble where workshops and tastings are held. Try the chef’s own favourite: the beef tagliata (thinly sliced steak) served with Peruvian potatoes, or for a more Greek taste: the kebabakia on smashed aubergines. There’s an on-site butcher shop and market space where diners can buy meats, dishes and utensils from the restaurant to test their culinary mettle at home. Leof. Galatsiou 98, Galatsi. Tel. +30 210.293.4633

Escape the city to elegant Kifissia and road test another of this northern enclave’s latest culinary additions, Chapter. Greek head chef Nikos Vlakakis and his cooking crew are bringing it back to basics at this chic eatery by refining simple, but beautiful dishes like marinated pork tenderloin and chicken wings smothered in barbecue sauce. Chapter smartly combines space with taste to create a warm environment with some sumptuous fare, not to mention great service and wine to match. Decked out with trendy art and a modern design, Chapter is a swanky and welcome expansion of Kifissia’s vibrant foodie scene. Pl. St. Agios Dimitrios 17, Kifissia. Tel. +30 210.801.6208 athens insider

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CHAPTER

MEZE KOLONAKI

In the center of chic Kolonaki, Meze Kolonaki is fighting the grain by going retro. With vintage items from times past lining the shelves, old Greek advertisements on the walls, and old-fashioned lights draped from the ceiling, this old-timey site injects charisma into the Kolonaki shopping strip. Its Mediterranean menu is made up of rustic comfort dishes like octopus vinegar and fried feta cheese with rosemary grilled sausage and homemade tomato jam. Meanwhile, every Friday and Saturday night, Meze Kolonaki hosts popular live music as it morphs into a late-night bar. Karneadou 25-29, Kolonaki. Tel. +30 210.721.9782

DE SXARA

De Sxara is the younger brother to Kifissia’s well-known Zambri, with the familial distinction being that here, meat rules the roost. This popular new “meat boutique” sports a memorable ambiance, created by a classical cathedral design under a domed ceiling, adorned with hanging ropes. Meanwhile, the menu emphasizes meat heroes such as the juicy, 33-month aged strip steak and the US-imported Tomahawk, all prepared by talented chef Stavros Skarpinakis (although there are plenty of other options for those who prefer to avoid red flesh). De Sxara is open until 2am, but you can experience daily between noon and 6pm, De Sxara’s spread of ten traditional dishes inspired by “meals any Greek mother might make”. Do take advantage of the robust wine cellar, featuring 50 labels, mainly from Greek vineyards. Ag. Tryphon 15 Kifissia. Tel. +30 210.808.0647

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JACK SPIT

Were a butcher and tattoo artist to build a home together, it might look something like Jack Spit, a quite literal temple of meat between Syntagma and Plaka. On one side of the restaurant is a shrine decorated with meats roasting on a rotisserie spit. On the other, radiant lights trace the windows with a red neon heart that looks as though it were traced from a sailor’s arm emblazoned above the door. The menu is a salute to barbecue the world over, conjuring dishes like the duck with Jack Daniel’s marinade. All meats from the spit can also be served on a brioche bun. Skoufou 10, Athens. Tel. +30 210.331.6003

OUR CONCIERGE

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NEW: Krabo CLASSIC: Akrotiri Lounge ALTERNATIVE: Couleur Locale

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Buffalo Wings & Rings: Born to be Spicy

“Eat, drink, talk loudly.” “Hot is a state of mind.” “Born to be spicy.” Those are the words decorating the walls of Nea Erythraia’s newest wings joint, but it’s not just fetching, saucy phrases that makes Buffalo Wings & Rings a magnetic force for locals and tourists alike - the restaurant boasts a culinary experience fit for any foodie, conversationalist or sports aficionado, finds Nicole Sadek.

step into Buffalo Wings & Rings is a step out of Greek traditional fare and a dive into American food culture. Flat screens televising football and basketball games span the length of the restaurant, creating a loquacious milieu reminiscent of a typical American hangout. The scent of barbeque wings suffuses the restaurant, and bright red walls give the space a vibrant vibe. Located in Nea Erythraia, Buffalo Wings & Rings specializes in all the American classics: sliders, onion rings and, of course, chicken wings. The menu, a brainchild of Cincinnati chef Elliot Jablonsky, infuses international flavours with Western tastes and boasts a variety of salads for even the most refined palates. For starters, try the buffalo chicken nachos or pecan chicken salad with breaded chicken, fresh apples and crumbled blue cheese. When it comes to fashioning custom-made wings, diners select a combination of traditional, boneless or breaded wings along with one of 12 flavours (including bourbon barbeque, peach mango and garlic parmesan), followed by the spice level, which ranges from mild to atomic to 1 million. We highly recommend the bourbon barbeque wings complemented by crispy onion rings. Beer lovers rejoice because Buffalo Wings & Rings’ beer offerings include Greek favourites Mythos and Fix as well as international bottled beers, giving you that perfect kick to try out one of their spicier wings. But that depth of flavour is just one element that elevates Buffalo Wings & Rings to a high rung in Greece’s attempts at American cuisine. You can hear bluegrass music and classic rock playing behind the sounds of casual chit-chat and the occasional shouts of an enthusiastic sports fan. The competitive attitude even extends to food — because at Buffalo Wings & Rings, it’s hard to separate food from sport. Waiters wear jerseys as uniforms, and, at the Wall of Flame, diners can take a stab at eating the restaurant’s spiciest wings, flavored with their mighty 1 Million Sauce, while guzzling a cold beer. More than anything, Buffalo Wings & Rings is casual dining done right. It’s a nerve centre for people who love the rush of competition and the joy of lively conversation — a restaurant that finds its soul in the simple act of social eating. Trikoupi Charilaou 127, Néa Erithraía, Tel. +30 210.620.6625

WWW.PITAPAN.GR

ince 1993, Pita Pan offers high quality, juicy Greek souvlakis, pitas, skewers and plates, based on S traditional recipes with an elegant, fresh Pita Pan “twist”! Pita Pan restaurants are located in lively neighborhoods, all over Athens, with beautiful verandas, friendly staff and great table service. Ideal for casual dining with family, friends, for business lunches or for a fast-and-furious delivery. PANGRATI: Iofontos 33 & Alkimahou 24, +30 210 725.2525 N.PSICHIKO: Penelope Delta 31 & Sikelianou, +30 210 671.3511 AG. PARASKEVI: Ag. Ioannou & Giavasi 1, +30 210 600.1604 ATHENS METRO MALL: Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Metro Ag. Dimitrios 95

partner hotels

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210.921.5353

ATHENS ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS 543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants. Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210.920.6000 ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL 66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking. N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka, Tel: 210.337.0000 ATHENS HILTON 506 renovated rooms, two pools, convention facilities, business center, four restaurants, two bars and spa. The rooftop Galaxy Bar and Restaurant has gorgeous city views. Vas. Sofias 46, Ilisia, Tel: 210.728.1000 COCO-MAT HOTEL COCO-MAT Hotel Athens is an understated luxury, design hotel that sits in the heart of Kolonaki and offers relaxing sleep, delicious homemade breakfast and selected services for its esteemed guests. 36 Patriarchou Ioakeim str., Tel: 210.723.0000 CIVITEL ATTIK A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace. Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi, Tel: 210.610.1000 CIVITEL OLYMPIC Right across the Olympic Stadium, it’s Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv. Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi, Tel: 210.680.1900

outdoor pool and sea views. Agiou Panteleimonos, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.967.0000 CROWNE PLAZA Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking. Michalakopoulou 50, Athens, Tel: 210.727.8000 DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa. Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Kavouri Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.891.1100 DIVANI CARAVEL Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool. Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani, Tel: 210.720.7000 DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view. Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis, Tel: 210.928.0100 GRANDE BRETAGNE This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools. Syntagma Sq., Tel: 210.333.0000

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCO-MAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike ride and herb garden. Pellis 6, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.8027

HOLIDAY INN ATTICA AVENUE New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. Stateof-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center. 40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata, Tel: 210.668.9000

SOMEWHERE HOTEL A stylish and secluded Athens Riviera bolthole with 11 wellappointed rooms, set in the heart of the exclusive seaside suburb of Vouliagmeni with daily buffet breakfast, lounge area, elegant

HOLIDAY SUITES Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette. Arnis 4, Ilissia, Tel: 210.727.8000

KEFALARI SUITES Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels. Themed suites with modern facilities. Pentelis 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3333 KING GEORGE Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views. Vas. Georgiou A’ 3. Syntagma Sq., Tel: 210.322.2210 LIFE GALLERY Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre. Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali, Tel: 211.106.7400 MELIÁ ATHENS Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments. Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis, Tel: 210.332.0100 NEW Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept. Filellinon 16, Syntagma, Tel: 210.3273000 NJV ATHENS PLAZA Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq., Tel: 210 3352400 NOVOTEL Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden. 4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square, Tel: 210.820.0700

architectural charm. 16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining. Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3521

SEMIRAMIS YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid. 51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultratrendy bar-restaurant. Harilaou Trikoupi 48, KefalariKifissia, Tel: 210.628.4400

AVA HOTEL & SUITES Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma. Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka, Tel: 210.325.9000

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool. Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata, Tel: 210.354.4000 ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool. Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.741.6000 THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities. Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3622 THE MARGI Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne. Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts. Litous 11, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.892.9000 ATHENS WAS Urban adventure, daring design, original architecture, energetic social hub and stylish comfort, AthensWas’ 21 rooms all feature verandas to take in a truly authentic Athenian experience. Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, Tel:210.725.4871 TWENTY ONE A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple

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MARILIA HOTEL An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool. Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.899.0391 FRESH HOTEL Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool. Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia, Tel: 210.524.8511 HERODION A mere 289 metres from the Acropolis and 85 metres from the Acropolis Museum. 90 guest rooms, Atrium restaurant and rooftop bar, Point a. Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni, Tel: 210.923.6832 HOTEL ELECTRA Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas. Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq., Tel: 210.337.8000 PERISCOPE HOTEL 17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels. Haritos 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.7200 PHILIPPOS Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are well-appointed and comfortable. Within walking distance to the Acropolis. Mitseon 3, Acropolis, Tel: 210.922.3611-4

COSTA NAVARINO The Westin Resort Costa Navarino Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic. Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000 THE ROMANOS, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT 289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools. Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches. Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000 EVIA THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia, Tel: 22260.60100 KAVALA IMARET HOTEL A masterfully-restored 19th century palace with 21st century luxuries set amid 3,000 square metres of tranquil gardens, with city and sea views. Highlights: lavish afternoon teas and an original hamam offering exotic bathing rituals and massages. Pavlidou 30, Kavala, Tel: 25106.20151 NAFPLIO OPORA COUNTRY LIVING A classy countryside retreat with cosy French contemporary-style farmhouse accommodation, tenminutes from the attractions of romantic Nafplio. Outdoor infinity pool, fireplaces and kitchenettes in rooms, organic breakfasts and on-site olive harvests and wine tastings available. Pirgiotika, Nafplio, Tel: 27520.22259 PARNASSOS ELATOS RESORT A sociable vibe, beautiful forest setting and excellent leisure facilities with 39 homes (including indoor pool and chic Club House) define this classic alpine resort, well located for the popular Parnassos ski centre. Nature hikes, yoga workshops and family-themed weekends are also regularly on offer.

Eptalofos - Agoriani, Tel: 22340.61162 METSOVO THE GRAND FOREST Tucked away in a pristine pine forest strewn with walking trails is the Grand Forest retreat, located at a lofty 1,350 feet and prized for its state of the art wellness spa and the culinary excellence of chef Ettore Botrini’s menu. Metsovo, Tel: 26563.00500 ELATOCHORI SEMELI A short 5 km from the ski retreat of Elatochori - enveloped by forests of beech, oak and fir trees offering stunning Mt. Olympus views - is Semeli Resort. Here, the smell of crackling wood, gourmet cuisine, après-ski pampering and designer interiors (Philippe Starck chairs and earthy Bukhara rugs) awaits. Kehagia, Elatochórion, Tel: 23510.82996 SANTORINI MYSTIQUE Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre. Mystique, Oia, Tel: 22860.71114 THE TSITOURAS COLLECTION Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape. Firostefani, Santorini, Tel: 22860.23747 VEDEMA Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori, Tel: 22860.81796 SANTO MARIS Oia Luxury Suites and Spa Santo Maris offers exquisite comfort in its 42 suites, 2 sprawling villas, 4 swimming pools, spa and gourmet restaurant in one of the world’s best-loved destinations. Oia, Santorini, Tel: 22866.00630

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RADISSON BLU Set across from the lush groves of Pedion tou Areos park, this contemporary hotel is a 4-minute walk from Victoria metro station and 2.9 km from the Acropolis. Alexandras Avenue 10, Athens, Tel: 210.889.4500

kaleidoscope Greek feline beauties They are as much a part of Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s landscape and its tourist brochures as its century-old monuments: Greek cats. Often lazing in the sun, squinting through cannons or squatting on handbags or loitering around tavernas looking for a handout, Manisha Glaentzer-Tawadeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lens captures these sleeping feral beauties. To find out how you can help stray cats find a home or to volunteer to care for them, check out ninelivesgreece.com.

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