ATHENS INSIDER SPRING 2019 by Insider Publications

the city magazine of

New Beginnings Arts & Events • People • Culture • Travel • Style • Food & Drink

Spring 2019 Year 19 #141 ISSN 1790-3114

127 K. Karamanli Ave, Voula 166 73, Athens Greece T +30 210 9885648, +30 210 8991650, M +30 6944605170 F +30 210 9832597 info@billiri.gr

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Luxury Real Estate Masterpiece Our Real Estate agency provides you with services for properties of unique and significant value. In the Real Estate sector, our office offers support in legal and notarial issues, in technical and architectural studies, construction and decoration, as well as in evaluations for any kind of property. In cooperation with the highest profile banks, we provide services in issuing construction, mortgage and property repair loans. Through our website, you can see some of the carefully selected properties that we represent, available for residential and commercial use, as well as plots in prime locations. Please, contact us so that we can find the best possible solution for you.

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Luxury Real Estate & Yachts Sales | Rentals | Charters Our Real Estate agency provides you with services for properties of unique and significant value as well as for luxury yacht charters and yacht sales. In the Real Estate sector, our office offers support in legal and notarial issues, in technical and architectural studies, construction and decoration, as well as in evaluations for any kind of property. In cooperation with the highest profile banks, we provide services in issuing construction, mortgage and property repair loans. Through our website, you can see some of the carefully selected properties that we represent, available for residential and commercial use, as well as plots in prime locations. Please, contact us so that we can have the chance to create the best possible solution for you.

127 K. Karamanli Ave, Voula 166 73, Athens Greece T +30 210 9885648, +30 210 8991650, M +30 6944605170, F +30 210 9832597, info@billiri.gr

Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Copy Editor Cordelia Madden-Kanellopoulou Fashion Editor Eleftheria Domenikou Graphic Design Roula Koronaiou Cover illustration Daniel Egnéus Client Relations and Sales Eleni Kalogridou Varvara Giannikouli Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Interns Daniel Te, Destiny Torres, Caroline Bohra, Barbara Kasomenakis, Hannah Sacks, Samantha Henderson Photos Christos Drazos, Alina Lefa, Ioanna Koulakou, Maria-Irene Moschona, Shutterstock Contributors in this Issue Elena Panayides, Amanda Dardanis, Els Hanappe, Christiana Darmi, Brady Keisling, Ivana Bozjak, Sahar Kadri Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Printing Grafima Website and Digital Marketing Webolution Subscriptions Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 15, Abroad € 30 Both magazines in Greece € 40, Abroad € 90 (incl. VAT and postage) Also published in Chinese (Mandarin), Russian and Turkish. To subscribe, email: info@insider-magazine.gr www.athensinsider.com www.bonjourathenes.fr Athens Insider is published quarterly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by: Insider Publications Ltd. located at Ermou 13, 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece Tel.: 210.729.8634 VAT: 099747145 E-mail: info@insider-magazine.gr

publisher’s note A

t Athens Insider, we’ve helped you explore this incorrigibly endearing city for 18 years and we’re embracing our coming-of-age bringing you the same sense of wonder but with a bolder, more captivating look. The new Athens Insider is one you’ll literally feel before you see it, with upgraded paper, that makes the experience of holding a magazine in your hands even more of a premium, lean-back delight. This issue is one of celebrating new beginnings - Four Seasons Astir Palace opens its doors this month, one of the most anticipated hotel launches in the world, infusing new life into a legendary property. And the Vouliagmeni peninsula is all set to take on the mantle as the ultimate luxury leisure and wellness destination with the newly revamped Astir Beach and upgraded Astir Marina. We celebrate the free and defiant spirit of Athens and its oft-overlooked multi-layered personality in a cheeky essay and cheer its cultural renaissance as one of the most vibrant, artistic capitals in Europe. The amazing cast of characters you’ll find in this issue from best-selling novelist Alex Michaelides, designer Daphne Valente, Michelin-star chef Lefteris Lazarou, Mexican Ambassador Daniel Hernandez and General Manager at Four Seasons Astir Palace, Sam Ioannidis, all seem to share a certain connective tissue. They’re all driven by the ideas they want to express, whether through brilliant wordcraft, sculptural dresses, sublime dishes, in forging a more meaningful connection between people, or creating extraordinary experiences. We hope that we are much more than the sum of our glossy-wrapped parts - and continue to inspire, surprise, provoke and inform to remain the most authoritative reference on contemporary Greece. • Kali arxi!

Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.

Sudha Nair-Iliades

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Athens Insider ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 216548 www.athensinsider.com

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contents

CULTURE

PEOPLE

FASHION AND STYLE

Arts & Events Cultural highlights

Barefoot extravaganza Glitter and gold and all things bold.

Athens Festival round-up A selection of must-see events at this year’s Athens Festival.

Cultural treasures Explore Greek, Byzantine and Ottoman culture and the contemporary creative scene in Athens.

High priestess of pleats Daphne Valente on the timeless elegance of pleats and fashion with a conscience.

“Do you remember the pink oleander?” Art historian Els Hanappe traces the rise of an international artists' community on Hydra in the ‘50s.

A new chapter begins Four Season Astir Palace General Manager Sam Ioannidis walks us through the relaunch of the legendary hotel. When truth is far stranger than fiction Alex Michaelides’ debut novel, The Silent Patient, tops the New York Times bestseller list and procures a film deal with an Oscar-winning team: the new literary star to watch.

110 Making room for humour Miltos Kontogiannis’ playful, industrial design infuses cheer and humour.

Taking diplomacy to the streets Mexican Ambassador Daniel Hernandez hopes to leave a permanent cultural imprint on the minds and hearts of Greeks.

106 Marble arts Petros Marmarinos’ evocatively simple marble compositions captivate with their finesse and sculptural sensibility.

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Cover illustration by Daniel Egnéus

“THERE IS NO FORMULA FOR CREATIVITY. IT TAKES TIME, EMOTION AND FOCUS.” JAMES BAY,

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MUSICIAN AND SONGWRITER, WEARS THE VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX.

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82 20 C

116

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CITY LIFE

FOOD & DRINK

If Athens were on a dating app, which way would you swipe? Does your dating profile match one of Athens’ many personalities?

Vouliagmeni’s discreet allure Vouliagmeni promises island magic and alluring glamour but its real charm lies in its off-grid beauty.

120 Where to dine in Athens… Right now! With Athens’ giddy food revolution in overdrive, Elena Panayides reviews some of the hottest restaurants that tick off all the right boxes.

TRAVEL 14

Athens Riviera revival: Astir leads the way The Astir redevelopment promises to elevate Vouliagmeni as a luxury destination.

Tools for a restless traveller Brady Kiesling enthuses about his app that lets you cherish each encounter with antiquity.

102 Skyrian Horses, a rare breed A photo essay on the diminutive – and fast-disappearing – Skyrian horse.

114 A destiny tied to the sea and the senses Lefteris Lazarou’s informal approach to fine dining makes Varoulko a place of gastronomic pilgrimage. 124 Some like it hot! Looking for a world-class bowl of pho or Pad Thai? Athens Insider samples the most eligible Asian outposts. 116 Cocktail crawl in the capital Athens adds more fizz to its buzzing nightlife with a host of cocktail bars, some ranked amongst the top 10 in the world.

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ATHENS • corner of 11, Voukourestiou & 8, El. Venizelou Street | KIFISSIA • 19, Kassaveti Street | MYKONOS • Santa Marina Resort and Villas, Ornos

www.venetiavildiridis.com

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S I N C E 1902

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Few hotels can claim to be destinations in their own right. Fewer still are so iconic as to have become bywords for luxury and hospitality. But by exuberantly layering old and new, international and local â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and imbuing it with as much character and craftsmanship as the sprawling 30-acre complex can possibly hold â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Four Seasons Astir Palace lives up to the loftiest of expectations.

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A star is reborn

HOSPITALITY

New luxury for a new era General Manager Sam Ioannidis walks us through the creation of the first Four Seasons experience in Greece

t is one of the most eagerly anticipated hotel launches worldwide – with good reason. For sheer romanticism and location, Four Seasons Astir Palace sets a high standard: it is moored like an ocean liner on a pine-clad peninsula, sandy beaches nestled below its terracotta cliffs, in a painterly palette of lush green and a roaming spectrum of blues. Add to that the glam quotient of being the favoured stomping ground for the glitterati – from Jackie O, Frank Sinatra and the Beatles to Lady Gaga, as well as being the last stop for President Obama on his legacy tour – and it’s clear how the Astir earned its reputation as the ‘salon’ of Athenian society who rubbed shoulders with guests from the worlds of film, music, art, literature, politics and sports in its storied lobby. Just weeks shy of Four Seasons Astir Palace’s grand opening on March 29, General Manager Sam Ioannidis takes us on a stroll around the complex. The animated energy is palpable. “Four Seasons is creating a new luxury experience for a new era, bringing a legendary product back to life,” enthuses Ioannidis. Our stroll of the grounds is one he does often. “I walk the property frequently, just to get a feel, and watch how a guest would enter, how would they leave, and the experiences in between,” he says. “The views, sights, sounds constantly at any given time of the day, it's quite magical.”

Renaissance as Four Seasons Astir Palace What Four Seasons Astir Palace has tried to achieve is quite remarkable. The design brief was to respectfully rewrite the relationship between an iconic property and a modern hotel, combining design and an interplay of colours and materials, without losing its soul. A tall order, but the designers at Meyer Davis, Martin Brudnizki and K Studio take no prisoners here. The aesthetic reflects the design elements of the ‘60s yet draws on Athens’ contemporary, uncompromising spirit to create a space that is as inspiring as it is welcoming. Regulars will be reunited with their Astir memories; Four Seasons ‘groupies’ will find the elevated levels of service that the brand has built its reputation on – and almost everyone will leave with a better understanding of what makes this property truly legendary. The Four Seasons Astir Palace complex features two hotels, the “sophisticated” Arion and “boho-chic” Nafsika, as Ioannidis describes them, which count 303 rooms and 42 suites between them. There is also a

collection of 61 seaside bungalows whose style combines “the appeal of a bygone age with a few contemporary touches”. The designers focus on subtlety and simplicity to create a resort imbued with discreet luxury, simplified use of space and more intimate areas which do not interfere with the hotel's convivial atmosphere. Wherever possible, they’ve used large bay windows and magnificent glass ceilings (as in the light-filled spa), to meld in the interior and exterior and take advantage of the spectacular views of the Saronic Gulf. The whole property has been enhanced with more light, more character, more Greek elements and an extraordinarily airy elegance.

Art matters The impressive artworks that will embellish the Four Seasons Astir Palace were selected using the same principles of blending modern design with respect for the hotel’s heritage. Over 2,000 pieces of art have been carefully curated, through which the hotel hopes to enhance the feel of the property and elevate the guest experience by offering more than just a building with rooms and beds. As Ioannidis puts it: “Guests seeking meaningful experiences that connect them to communities and engage them with ideas will find that the art collection at the hotel offers an aesthetic experience that exceeds the emotional and physical expectations of their journey.” The collection includes thought-provoking sculptures by the famed Sir Anthony Gormley gracing the outdoor spaces, but largely features the works of talented Greek artists.

Sustainable luxury The underlying philosophy at Four Seasons Astir Palace is that of sustainable luxury and it comes through in every aspect of the hotel’s operations. As we follow a path threading between the pines, Ioannidis explains that sustainable tourism is about incorporating the local community, protecting the cultural heritage of a place and recycling by using natural resources intelligently. To that end, he says, Four Seasons Astir Palace hopes to set a benchmark in the hospitality industry by incorporating the resort’s locally-grown herbs into the food and spa experiences, planting over 6,000 additional trees and indigenous plants on the penin-

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HOSPITALITY

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“Inspired by Astir’s glamorous history, Four Seasons is creating a new luxury experience for a new era bringing a legendary product back to life. Greece is known for its filotimo and hospitality, and we want to add to this. We want to be the ‘living room’ of Athens.”

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HOSPITALITY

Bungalow Suite with Pool

sula, using solar power systems for hot water heating and implementing a near-zero level of plastic use. “There are things that the guests will feel and see,” he says, “such as the reduction in disposable plastic, and there are things that they may not see, such as the way that we save on electricity and water. These are the sort of touches that make Greeks proud of what we are doing here and create a strong sense of place for the world traveller. So, we are using a lot of the elements of Greece, and specifically of Vouliagmeni, to bring that character.” Additionally, on the subject of supporting the local community, Ioannidis stresses that Four Seasons Astir Palace employs mainly local Greek staff, while working with local farmers, producers and small businesses whenever possible. Thus, the resort will not only breathe new life into a legacy, but enrich the community. “We have visionary owners, AGC, who have invested a great deal on this asset and the peninsula to help us build something very beautiful,” he says. “We have the opportunity to be quite innovative and set a new standard within the community. Greece is known for its filotimo and its hospitality, and we want to add to this.”

Wellness sanctuary Our shady path bursts out onto a shrub-studded cliff with the Saronic Gulf extending before us in an iridescent haze. As we breathe in a tantalising medley of salt-sprayed herbal aromas, Ioannidis mentions how these very elements, curative seawater and healing herbs, are incorporated into the treatments at Four Seasons Astir Palace’s wellness centre. “We are using indigenous herbs to create some of our local scents and we have some really unique products that are non-invasive medical treatments,” he says. Lavender, aloe vera, mint and sage are among the plants used in treatments inspired by centuries-old beauty and bathing rituals. As befits its wave-caressed position on the peninsula, most of the nurturing and soothing treatments at the spa and wellness centre incorporate the healing power of water. Expect to soak in H2O goodness in the spa’s

Fountain House, a hydrotherapy zone that includes a 25-metre indoor pool, aroma steam grotto, chill showers, sauna and hammam facilities that provide the highest level of ‘Sanus Per Aquam’, health through water experiences. Guests who wish to enjoy a spa experience in communion with nature can do so at an external cabana on the hotel’s private beach. Carefully conceived to reach a heightened level of pampering, its signature treatments, the ‘Iremia Stillness Recovery Ritual’ is 120 minutes of sheer bliss and the 90-minute ‘Epanorthosi Green Caviar Repair’ facial is designed to quench the eternal quest for everlasting youth! “We’ve hand-picked each and every therapist,” says Ioannidis. “Our original and innovative programme is an ideal blend of ancestral Hippocratic knowledge and cutting-edge technology to create bespoke, integrative treatments.”

Food and flavours Local produce is not only on the menu at the spa but also at all of the Four Seasons Astir Palace’s varied dining venues. “We have eight very distinctive, authentic restaurants and lounges that tie together land and sea to create a true dining destination in the city,” says Ioannidis. Delight in just-caught fish cooked to perfection; enjoy the unrivalled flavour of freshly picked home-grown vegetables and herbs from the resort’s kitchen garden; hesitate between a succulent osso bucco or a delicately flavoured ceviche. The emphasis is on skillful and artistic dishes by chefs who are passionate about their craft. From Mercato, serving inspired Italian cuisine, to Pelagos, for bounties from the Aegean; Taverna 37 for delicacies anchored in Greece’s rich culinary tradition; Helios serving authentic Latin American flavours; Avra and Astron all-day lounge terraces; and even the Aristotelis Cigar Lounge, pairing fine cigars with rare cognacs, it’s a tastebud-tingling array. Located within the grounds of Four Seasons Astir Palace is the famed Matsuhisa with its unrivalled Japanese-Peruvian cuisine that has

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HOSPITALITY

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Bungalow Bedroom Sea View with Pool

Arion sea view room at Four Seasons Astir Palace

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Nafsika room at Four Seasons Astir Palace

brought the quiet power of Japanese culture and the charm of fusion philosophy to the gastronomic map of Athens. There’s a restaurant here for all occasions, whether languorous Sunday brunch or a celebratory meal, a romantic dinner or business lunch, and the dining experience is enriched by intuitive lighting and details of discreet luxury. Conviviality, hospitality and sharing, as important Greek traits, are hallmarks of the Four Seasons Astir Palace dining experience. “We want to be the ‘living room’ of Athens,” smiles Ioannidis. “We’ve infused the property with the vibrant urban culture of Athens to draw our fellow Athenians to come for a cup of coffee, enjoy diverse and exciting dining options and experience Four Seasons hospitality.”

Luxury shopping Of course, no luxury experience is complete without shopping. From fine gems and timepieces, designer swimwear and haute couture, an art gallery that showcases contemporary talent and a museum store that shines a light on Greek heritage and craftsmanship, the retail environment at Four Seasons Astir Palace is designed to inspire and allure discerning shoppers while creating an authentic emotional connection with Greece.

Bespoke services, unique experiences From its privileged waterfront position, Four Seasons Astir Palace guests are perfectly situated to enjoy a plethora of water sports, from diving and snorkelling to sailing. “We are very blessed to be on the peninsula: The famous Astir Beach is right next to us,” enthuses Ioannidis. “And our owners have invested a lot into the entire development, so guests who want to moor their beautiful yachts can avail of the full-service Astir Marina we are attached to.” Guests who prefer to stay on terra firma can hone their serve at US-certified tennis courts, team up for a game of football or work on their layups

at the basketball court. Or sign up for cookery masterclasses with worldclass Greek and international guest chefs. Meanwhile, special kids’ amenities keep young guests imaginatively entertained so their parents can truly relax. If you can tear yourself away from the peninsula and its limitless attractions, the hotel teams create bespoke trips designed to foster Greek customs. Visit a vineyard, stomp grapes, take part in local wine-degustations and let tough-to-pronounce Greek grape varieties roll off your tongue like a true connoisseur. Immerse in local culture on overland day trips or halfday boat trips to nearby islands; take in the city’s landmark sites such as the majestic Parthenon; experience Athens’ vibrant night life and learn to shake a leg (do throw carnations; don’t break plates!) at DJ-themed bouzouki nights. As Ioannidis says, “The whole community is a great destination for Greeks and visitors alike to enjoy, and for the world traveller to cherish singular experiences.” Many resorts have a wide array of activities to sample; others have extraordinary architecture; others, delicious dining options; and still others a sublime setting. As well as combining all of the above, what Ioannidis believes makes Four Seasons Astir Palace stand out even further is the people working there, and their level of commitment. “Four Seasons is known as an employer of choice globally and that is because of how we treat and evolve with our employees,” he says. “At the end of the day, our staff are the ones dealing with our guests and those experiences are the magical moments where we create craft and character.” “Especially here in Greece,” he continues, “we are known for ‘philoxenia’ and ‘filotimo’. And we really want that level of authenticity. It’s about being friendly and authentic. As General Manager, I want our team to be passionate, proud of where they are from, and able to speak confidently and authentically about this very unique destination.”

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PRINCESS FLOWER COLLECTION | robertocoin.com

Athens Riviera revival: Astir leads the way The Astir redevelopment promises to significantly elevate the local community’s quality of life and mark Vouliagmeni as a luxury destination, becoming a standard-bearer for other tourism projects in Greece.

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Destination upgrade

ts unique geography – pine-decked forests, long sandy beaches and mesmerising sunsets – have enthralled the international jet-set and locals alike for the past 50 years. Just 20km from the city centre, Astir, one of the most iconic summer destinations worldwide, has been emblematic of the laidback allure of the Athenian Riviera. Keen to preserve its legacy, Astir Palace Vouliagmeni SA’s ambitious and visionary redevelopment plan aims to elevate the profile of the Vouliagmeni peninsula to a top-notch luxury destination with fine-dining options, cutting-edge hospitality, recreation and leisure facilities and a state-of-the-art marina to cater to the needs of its clientele seeking world-class luxury experiences. To that end, the much-anticipated launch of Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens, the upgrade of Astir Marina and Astir Beach, the development of up to 13 high-end villas will establish Astir as an international luxury destination with high infrastructure to match. The total investment exceeds €650 million, marking it as the single most important one in the Greek tourism industry.

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S I N C E 1902 ATHENS • corner of 11, Voukourestiou & 8, El. Venizelou Street | KIFISSIA • 19, Kassaveti Street | MYKONOS • Santa Marina Resort and Villas, Ornos

www.venetiavildiridis.com

ATHENS RIVIERA REVIVAL

Hollywood royalty and real bluebloods, heads of state, sports stars, actors, writers, artists, business tycoons, politicians – they’ve all congregated on Astir’s sandy beaches – all leaving behind a trail of interesting stories while firmly establishing Astir as the playground of the glitterati.

Celebrated photographer F.C. Gundlach captures the exciting interplay of light and shadows at Astir Beach, 1966 ©F.C. Gundlach

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ATHENS RIVIERA REVIVAL

©Yiorgos Kordakis

Equipped to make your beach moments as indulgent as possible – from leisurely breakfast to the stressful business of ordering cocktails from the Beach Bar to contemplating which of the shopping temptations to succumb to – Astir Beach has the right mix of high-end retail and dining options to elevate your weekend experience

From sepia-tinted glory to luxury seaside entertainment Hollywood royalty and real blue-bloods, heads of state, sports stars, actors, writers, artists, business tycoons and politicians have all congregated on Astir Beach, leaving behind a trail of interesting stories while firmly establishing Astir as the playground of the glitterati. Since its opening in 1960, the beach has had an aura of timeless elegance with white changing rooms, striped beach umbrellas and large triangular sailcloth canopies. That quiet sophistication serves as inspiration for K-Studios as they recreate the iconic ‘60s look at Astir Beach this summer. The design elements reconnect with Astir Beach’s glamorous heritage while infusing it with a fresh, contemporary design aesthetic. Shop till you drop Why not shop, while reclining at the beach? Designer swimwear, Greek-themed hats and bags, rhinestone sandals, beach couture, bikinis and accessories : answers to all your tenuous wardrobe decisions right at your sandy feet. Let the music begin Astir Beach kicks off the 2019 summer season from May! From May to August, the beach comes alive to the sound of music with sunset concept parties hosted by world-renowned DJs who have performed at top clubs and music festivals worldwide. On Saturdays, expect afternoon parties with a live set as well as events themed around water and wellness sessions. Eat, drink and be merry Enjoy a sundowner at the Beach Bar or, if you’re too lazy to aban-

don the deep recesses of your sun-bed, simply order delivery to your side-table. For guilt-free meals, take in the wholesome goodness of organic cuisine at nice n easy’s laidback restaurant. HOW TO MAXIMISE YOUR EXPERIENCE AT ASTIR BEACH Book your corner of the beach Want to make sure you have your secret corner locked in? Astir Beach lets you check in to your favourite spot of the beach by pre-booking a sunbed of your choice. Check the availability in real-time and reserve your slice of paradise at https://www.astir.gr/ beach/sunbeds Join the Members Club Open from 8 am to midnight, Astir Beach offers a plethora of experiences. The Membership Card provides unlimited access to the beach and to Astir Beach’s facilities all year long, free parking, access to the Exclusive Members lounge area with sun beds and towels, plus a concierge service that anticipates your every need. Here is a facility that combines the discretion, service and amenities of a private club with leisure and fitness, in a natural setting. It’s ideal for those who want to make the most of their time in a clean, friendly environment and enjoy a hassle-free day at the beach. Throw your beach party here Make the sandy shores your party zone. Celebrate at the beach – whatever the occasion - from birthday parties to team building activities, product launches, corporate events and art exhibitions this is an extraordinary setting for an unforgettable event. Booking your private cabana is highly recommended!

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WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT AT THE NEW ASTIR BEACH

©Yiorgos Kordakis

ATHENS RIVIERA REVIVAL

Beach Bar

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©Yiorgos Kordakis

©Dimitris Poupalos

Matsuhisa Athens, for a sublime experience

Matsuhisa

ocated within the grounds of Four Seasons Astir Palace with an enviable view of the Saronic Gulf is Matsuhisa Athens, that has brought the quiet power of Japanese culture and the charm of fusion philosophy to the gastronomic map of Athens. Nobu fans hooked on the influential chef’s own brand of high-citrus, Peruvian-influenced fusion food can expect to tuck into favourites like the signature Black Cod den miso: a cut of fish from the tail marinated in miso for three days then seared to give the outside a sweet stickiness while maintaining the rich softness of the flaky flesh. Executive Chef Anthony Vratsanos and Head Chef Loris di Santo craft a special Omakase menu, so expect to savour sublime dishes such as the perfect balanced Yellowtail jalapeno, Chilean sea bass with tosazu truffle and Squid pasta with quail egg. The new infinity bar at the restaurant’s outdoor area, UMI (Japanese for ‘sea’), is the very first bar with the Nobu Matsuhisa signature. International mixologists join Bar Manager Haris Georgopoulos in bringing their alchemist expertise here. Join Nobu-san on his annual pilgrimage to Greece at the Nobu Food Festival as he treats diners to recipes with a Greek twist later this summer. athens insider | 20 |

Athens: 11 Voukourestiou str. 10671 | Mykonos: Nammos Shopping Village, Psarou Beach 84600 | Î¤.: +30 210 36 47 989 | www.callistacrafts.com

Arts & Events

What to do in Athens this spring

a a

Unruly Phenomena by Mary Cox WHAT: American artist Mary Cox presents an exhibition of works celebrating the hardy beauty of wild-growing plants, particularly those indigenous to Attica. Using photographs as her basis, Cox magnifies the details, skews the perspectives, paints with a vivid colour palette and adds static objects like fences or buildings around the plants to reference social, political and psychological states. Within the same exhibition are small digital prints of collages Cox created from photos of art reproduced in magazines. WHEN: Until April 11 WHERE: STOart Korai Korai 4, Tel: +30.210.325.2352

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ARTS & EVENTS

John Cleese Last time to see me before I die WHAT: Comedy icon John Cleese will be performing his final act, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Last time to see me before I dieâ&#x20AC;?, just below the Acropolis at the open-air theatre of Herod Atticus. The actor and writer, who rose to fame in the Monty Python and Fawlty Towers TV series, named the show with characteristic black humour, but has been touring the world with it for the last five years and shows no signs of stopping. Tickets are selling fast for this (perhaps) once-in-a-lifetime combination of legendary comic and legendary venue, so book now to avoid disappointment. WHEN: September 20 WHERE: Odeon of Herod Atticus, Dionysiou Areopagitou St. viva.gr

Roads of Arabia: Archaeological Treasures from Saudi Arabia WHAT: The cultural evolution of the Arabian Peninsula from antiquity to the modern age is revealed through a fascinating collection of exhibits that include large-scale sculptures, gold burial ornaments, tombstones and precious offerings. This exhibition was launched at the Louvre in 2010 and has toured cities including Rome, Berlin, Barcelona, Washington, Houston, Beijing, Seoul, Tokyo and Abu Dhabi, before landing in Athens.

WHEN: Until May 26 WHERE: Benaki Museum Pireos 138, Tel: +30.210.345.3111 benaki.gr

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ARTS & EVENTS

Broken History by Pavlos Samios WHAT: In this exhibition of 66 large-scale works, artist Pavlos Samios takes a contemporary look at Greek history and mythology. Adding a street art edge to ancient Greek staples, the Athens School of Fine Arts professor invites you to expect the unexpected, with sculptures made out of cardboard boxes and spritzed with graffiti.

WHEN: Until June 15 WHERE: Byzantine and Christian Museum Vas Sofias 22, Tel: +30.213.213.9517 byzantinemuseum.gr

WHAT: St. Paul’s Anglican Church in Athens organise exciting concerts as part of a series of events sponsored by United We Fly. “Taste the Music,” covers genres ranging from post-rock ambience to electronic music, until the end of May. WHEN: Until May 31 WHERE: St. Paul's Anglican Church, 27 Philellinon INFO: Tickets: €10-12 / Viva.gr

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St. Paul’s Sessions: Taste the Music Concert Series

ARTS & EVENTS

Stefanos Rokos: Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds

'No More Shall We Part'

WHAT: When Stefanos Rokos heard Nick Cave and The Bad Seed’s, he knew he had to reproduce the powerful images it evoked. Fourteen paintings inspired by the fourteen tracks (the original twelve songs and the two b-sides that were included in the limited edition release) the exhibition is testimony to a dialectic between two artistic forms – that of painting and song writing.

WHEN: From April 4 until May 19 WHERE: Benaki Museum, Pireos 38 benaki.gr

Yannis Moralis Exhibition WHAT: Multifaceted in his talents and boundless in his creativity, the late Greek artist Yannis Moralis’ work elevated him to be one of the most celebrated figures in the 20th century. This expansive exhibition at the Benaki Museum explores his groundbreaking artistry over the course of several decades in a variety of mediums including paintings, sculptures, architectural commissions, record covers, and book illustrations. Witness his progression and development as an artist at this much-lauded retrospective. WHEN: Until May 5 WHERE: Benaki Museum Pireos 138, Tel: +30.210.367.1000

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ARTS & EVENTS

Christiane Löhr Exhibition

WHAT: German artist Christiane Löhr seeks to understand the connection between the natural order and modern architecture. This search manifests itself in her art, in which she uses eccentric methods and materials to construct everyday objects and architectural designs. For her second exhibition in Athens, she utilizes horse hair and needles, alongside her most recent paper sculptures.

When: Until April 24 Tuesday – Friday: 10:30 – 18:30 Saturday: 12:00 – 16:00 Where: The Bernier-Eliades Gallery, 11 Eptachalkou Street Tel: +30.210.341.3935 bernier-eliades.gr

Crete: Emerging Cities WHAT: The island of Crete is the largest Greek island as well as an immense vessel of ancient history and culture. The Museum of Cycladic Art offers an intriguing exhibit complete with artifacts brought from the island itself, some freshly excavated, and tracks the rise and fall of three major cities: Aptera, Eleutherna, and Knossos. Museum director Professor Nikos Stampolidis says, “This exhibition is about cities that no longer exist, erased from memory, save perhaps for their name, which persists, often corrupted.” WHEN: Until April 30 WHERE: Museum of Cycladic Art Neophytou Douka 4, Athens, Vasilissis Sofias & Herodotou 1, Tel +30 210.722.8321-3, cycladic.gr

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KOLONAKI 15 Skoufa str. 10673 Kolonaki, Athens +30 210 3635600

KIFISIA 11 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8016641

FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE HOTEL 40 Apollonos str. 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens

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MYKONOS Nammos Village Psarou +30 2289 022015

BOTTEGA VENETA 14 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8085182

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ARTS & EVENTS

Alexander Lamont Henderson: 1904 Holiday Snaps WHAT: Alexander Lamont Henderson was a distinguished photographer, being lauded by Britain’s Queen Victoria for his excellent work. While a majority of his work was lost after her death, and many more images were destroyed by bombs in the 1940’s, this exhibit will give you a glimpse at some of the stunning photographs that remain. In particular, this exhibit showcases his experience taking trips to the Mediterranean in the early 20th century. WHEN: Until May 4 Friday & Saturday: 10.00 - 18.00 WHERE: The Ghika Gallery, 3 Kriezotou Street, Athens. INFO: Tickets: €5 Tel: +30 210 361 5702 benaki.gr

Mappemonde: George Lappas WHAT: Citronne Gallery inaugurates its new space in Athens with an exhibition dedicated to George Lappas, Mappemonde. Housed in a landmark 1960’s building on Kolonaki’s bustling Patriarchou Ioakeim street, the gallery’s inaugural exhibition revisits George Lappas’ stunning presentation of Mappemonde at the Sao Paulo Biennale. One of the most significant works of Greek post-war sculpture, Lappas’ map traces the world as a sculptural narrative and draws on experiences from his own life. WHEN: Until May 1 WHERE: Gallery Citronne Patriarchou Ioakeim 19, Tel: +30.210.723.5226

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ARTS & EVENTS

George Zongolopoulos: The Vision of Public Sculpture WHAT: An exhibition exclusively dedicated to public sculptures, installed in Greece and other countries, by this iconic artist. As part of this exhibition, eight sculptures will go on display in outdoor areas in the Agora and the Rear Agora. Twelve more â&#x20AC;&#x201C; four of them exhibited for the very first time â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will go on display at the 4th-floor atrium of the National Library of Greece, supplemented by mock-ups, constructions, drawings, videos, photos and interactive exhibits that place these sculptures in the context of the public sites where they have been installed. WHEN: Until May 5 WHERE: Greek National Opera, Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre 364 Syngrou Avenue, Kallithea, Tel: +30.216.0891.000

The Good Shepherds WHAT: An exhibition that aims to honour and inspire, The Good Shepherds illuminates how the Christian clergy and respected rabbis helped the Jews who were persecuted during the Nazi occupation. It is a moving tribute presented by the Jewish Museum of Greece that strives to capture the positive actions and rescue efforts of those involved. WHEN: Until October 4 WHERE: Jewish Museum of Greece, 39 Nikis, Syntagma INFO: Tel: +30 210 322 5582

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ARTS & EVENTS

Courtney Barnett WHAT: Courtney Barnett, beloved by her fans for being bittersweet and humorous, always comes off as authentic in the contemporary rock scene. The Australian indierock artist is an international sensation, coming to Athens for the very first time, so buy tickets fast. Barnett once said, “In my dreams I wrote the best song I’ve ever written… Can’t remember how it goes,” but this is the opportunity to hear the great songs that she has brought to fruition.

WHEN: May 16 at 20:00 WHERE: Fuzz Live Music Club, 209 Pireos Avenue & 1 Patriarchou Ioakim. INFO: Tickets: Early bird €23, presale €25, at the door €28. Sale Spots: viva.gr & Viva Kiosks, 4 Syntagma Square

Iggy Pop + James + Shame Release Athens 2019 Release Athens 2019 welcomes the one and only Iggy Pop, proving that he remains an inexhaustible source of energy on stage with a live show that highlights all the great moments of his enormous career. "Punk's God", Iggy is a living legend of rock, not just as a musician but also as a mentality and attitude of life. Every rock and punk band or artist has "borrowed", consciously or unconsciously, one or two things from him. His inspiration survives and passes through every fashion and stream, touching every generation for decades. At Release Athens, Iggy Pop is joined by the hugely popular English rock band James, alternative rock group Shame, and other acts to be announced.

Jethro Tull WHAT: Following their first, historic gig at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus back in 2003, Jethro Tull returns to the hallowed grounds of the Odeon to celebrate its 50 years into the music business together with their Greek fans. Guided by the music genius known as Ian Anderson, Jethro Tull have influenced generation after generation of rockers with their long and fruitful career. With their diverse style encompassing blues, hard rock, progressive, art rock, elaborate arrangements and Anderson’s masterful flute-playing, the eccentric British band from Luton is justly considered one of the greatest rock bands of all time. WHEN: 15/06/2019 at 21:00 WHERE: Odeon of Herodes Atticus

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WHEN: June 8 WHERE: Plateia Nerou, Paleo Faliro www.viva.gr / www.releaseathens.gr

A grisly crime, a woman held hostage in her own mind, and a therapist determined to unravel her secrets - Alex Michaelides’ The Silent Patient is a riveting exploration of the maze-like psyches of the woman convicted of murdering her husband and the therapist determined to treat her. Michaelides peels the workings of a criminal mind layer by layer, in a tantalizingly slow peep show. Immersive and hypnotic from cover to cover, the film rights for the book have already been snapped up by Brad Pitt’s ‘Plan B’ company and will be produced by the Oscar-winning Jeremy Kleiner, of Moonlight and 12 Years a Slave fame. The foreign book rights have been sold in 43 countries, a record for a UK debut thriller. athens insider | 34 |

BOOKS

When truth is far stranger than fiction Elena Panayides, who schooled with Alex Michaelides, draws out the literary star's hopes and fears, and his own troubled relationship with psychotherapy in this raw, insightful conversation.

You left Cyprus to go to University in the UK. What is it from Cyprus or from your formative years that you carry with you? I really enjoyed debating at the English School in Cyprus. I guess that prompted me to train as a screenwriter at the American Film Institute in Los Angeles. I had a Disney teacher who taught me, and he used to say: ‘The nice thing about being a writer is that you don’t have to come up with the witty response in 15 seconds. You can go away and spend a month thinking about dialogue and come up with something great.’ I took a lot of Cyprus with me when I went. At the time, I thought all teenagers were into Greek myths, I didn’t realise that was very location specific - being taught Homer at school or performing Antigone at 13 years old. Then I went to Cambridge, and I did Greek Tragedy. I also did Greek and Ancient Greek. So again, it was looking at the plays in Ancient Greek and those are the themes that still preoccupy me. This morning I took a book about Iphigeneia as my breakfast reading material. I’m

preparing for my next book, which is about a series of high-achieving Cambridge students who are sacrificed, inspired by Iphigeneia in Aulis. All your books seem to have an element of Greek mythology. What is your creative process and what are your influences? The Silent Patient specifically comes from the Euripides play based on the myth of Alcestis. It’s something I’ve been carrying around since I was 13. I read the play then and it unsettled me, because she dies to save her husband and then she comes back from the dead, she’s reunited with her husband and she doesn’t speak when she greets him. And he asks: ‘Why is my wife standing here?’ and she doesn’t speak and there’s no answer forthcoming and the play finishes. So, it’s a very problematic play, which is why it’s not staged very often. And people don’t know what to make of the silence. Is she happy? Is she sad? Is she angry, that he betrayed her and let her die? What’s going on in her head? There’s something about that silence that stayed with me my whole life. It’s haunting and I tried it in various forms: as a short story, as a short film, as a play. Then something in my head clicked when I knew how to update this myth and set it in a modern context. It took decades. Twenty-five years?! Once you started the writing, did it flow? How hard was it to get it out of you? At the London book launch event in February I said it was a process of abandoning hope and giving up. I’m very into Zen Buddhism and there’s a Zen teacher that I follow, Joko Beck, and she says that ‘disappointment is the most important thing in life’, because it’s only when we’ve been disappointed enough times that we stop living in the future and we start living in the right now.

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t’s not often that one of your high-school friends breaks publishing records for their debut fictional novel. I meet Alex in one of our favourite London spots, the art-deco Colony restaurant in the Beaumont hotel that serves American comfort food and cocktails in a retro-chic setting. We take a corner red leather booth, under a myriad of black-and-white photos of classic figures from the stage, screen and literary world. Alex has a young Noel Coward hovering over his head, while I feel Greta Garbo’s steely and sensual gaze upon me. It’s Sunday brunchtime, and we decide it’s as good a time as any for champagne and a long overdue catch-up. From our childhood days in Cyprus to this chilly February afternoon in London, it’s the perfect time to reflect, relish and project.

BOOKS

‘Disappointment is the most important thing in life’, because it’s only when we’ve been disappointed enough times that we stop living in the future and we start living in the right now. What moves you? I’m moved a lot by music, by books, emotions, poetry. I’m very into melancholy and sadness. My next book is about that a lot. What interested me about The Silent Patient wasn’t necessarily the thriller aspect of the plot. It was the other stuff on top of it, it was obsession, it was having your heart broken, it was about the loss of love, betrayal; those are the things that really inspire me. I listen to [Greek-Cypriot singer] Anna Vissi all the time. She’s an inspiration as there’s so much sadness. She’s melancholic about the loss of love; it's achingly romantic and I still listen to Vissi every week. I think about the lyrics constantly. There’s a yearning in the voice and a sadness.

The Silent Patient

When I write, I try to get myself into a state of melancholy and extreme sadness and her music is that. The Silent Patient is set in a psychiatric ward. Is that a setting you’re familiar with? Yes, I was in individual therapy for 10-15 years, once a week. I studied therapy in three different institutions, but I didn’t finish the training for various reasons. One of them was that I realized I was a writer not a therapist. Another is that I have an ambiguous relationship with therapy; it comes down to the individual skill of the therapist. I ended up in this secure unit for teenagers as a work placement thing while I was studying. It was meant to be for one afternoon a week, but it ended up taking over my life. I was there most days for two years. It was a therapeutic community, a special place where they take kids in for up to four years from damaged environments and this new healing family that they are in aims to heal them. I think it healed the teenage part of me that felt so messed up. Working with these kids and seeing them get better. It was a big part of my life. I didn’t know I was going to write the book then. But later when I did know I wanted to write an Agatha Christie-style book, the first thing you think of is an iconic, enclosed location. I knew about the psychiatric unit really well and that I could use that. Your book has received rave reviews: it's been described as ‘the perfect thriller'. Is there such a thing as perfection? I want everything to be as good as I can possibly make it. I got to a place where I would print out a copy of the book and I’d go through it by hand and make notes. Type up the notes, print it out again and then to my dismay find there were twice as many notes this time around. I thought I was driving myself mad. But bit by bit, I got to a place where I had no notes. That’s when I thought: ‘I can let it go now. It’s as perfect as I can make it.’

Hardcover: 336 pages Publisher: Orion (Europe), Celadon (US), Dioptra (Greece) Language: English The Silent Patient, a gripping and compelling tale of Alicia Berenson, a happily married artist who murders her husband and never speaks again. Forensic psychotherapist Theo Faber sets out to unravel the mystery of Alicia’s notorious crime and quickly discovers that nothing about her case is as clearcut as it seems.

I’m assuming that there is intense pressure to follow up on record-breaking sales for a crime debut novel. What was the core message you wanted to communicate with the book? I was very lucky in that when the book came out, it went to auction in the US for the movie rights and so I had seven or eight movie studios bidding for it. Jeremy Kleiner, who finally got it, is a double-Oscar winning producer and a very talented man. One of the very first things he said to me when we met in London for dinner was, ‘What is the book about, what are you trying to say?” I had absolutely no idea. It threw me. That is an academic question and as a creative person if you start there, it will get you nowhere. I think the question I’m posing in the book is: ‘Can you get over your childhood?’ I think the answer for me is - yes you can get over your childhood, if you hold it in awareness. athens insider | 36 |

BOOKS

The nice thing about being a writer is that you don’t have to come up with the witty response in 15 seconds. You can go away and spend a month thinking about dialogue and come up with something great.

It’s your inner imposter telling you you’re not good enough. Exactly, you’re repeatedly told, or it’s implied, that ‘you’re not good enough’. You carry it but it’s limiting to say, ‘It’s athens insider | 37 |

my parents’ fault’. You have to look at where your parents got it from. You have to realize that your parents are also children and they had a childhood, that you’re really interacting with a child. Nothing to do with them as people. It’s a great process to go on if you’re lucky enough to have a therapist who doesn’t want to blame. These are all the issues that I deal with in the book and continues to interest me. There’s a violence in there, and there’s a violence in your next book. Where does the violence come from? Well, it goes back to my childhood and Greek tragedy. I’m conscious of all these things when I’m writing, and I think it’s about trauma, violence and it’s about how we re-enact trauma. The violence we do to others. We have been sacrificed and then we sacrifice others instead. I love Agatha Christie and I feel that what I try to do is to marry an Agatha Christie with a deep psychological and emotional complexity. That’s what I thought I could bring to that genre. The psychological aspect. It doesn’t interest me when someone kills someone for money. If you’re killing someone and it has something to do with your childhood and loss and pain,

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To quote psychoanalyst Alice Miller, ‘The purpose of therapy, is not to change the past, it’s to allow the patient to see their childhood clearly and to grieve over it.’ But if you keep pretending it was wonderful, when it wasn’t, then you’re never going to get over it and you’ll keep re-enacting all kinds of horrible stuff. That’s what my whole life has been about.

BOOKS

then I’m more interested in that kind of story. There’s more to unpick. I feel there is a Greek cultural revival happening, do you agree? You’re quite right to point that out. My editor in New York called me to say, 'I really hope that your next book has an equal element of Greek tragedy and mythology, because that’s what’s really connected with people. ‘So now in my next book I’m dealing with Iphigeneia’s sacrifice, and for me that’s super interesting. Why sacrifice still exists. Why it’s necessary to give up one life for another. These ideas are so old and embedded in our subconscious. I’m a huge fan of Yorgos Lanthimos. Maybe he’d like to do one of my books. I think Greeks and their culture are very special and maybe it’s just the language barrier that has held people back from breaking into Europe or America. I’m fortunate that my mother is English, and highly literate, and she brought me up in a house full of books and then I read Literature at Cambridge. So, I was able to enter straight into that world. What advice would you give to young Greek writers? I can’t advise people creatively. What I can say is that every day I was working on that book, I felt like giving up. The voices in my head would say ‘it’s not good enough’. I nearly quit every day. So now on the other side of this, I think: ‘If I had given up, I wouldn’t be where I am now’. So even now, with my current book, every day is a battle. I wrote a book that people really like and now I feel I don’t know how to write a sentence. What matters is perseverance and not giving up, a bit like Odysseus. Or Sisyphus? Oh God, I hope it’s not Sisyphus Groundhog Day, but actually my third book is based on the myth of Sisyphus. I feel for me it’s like Stephen King said, ‘Trying to write a novel, is like trying to cross the Atlantic in a bucket.’ It’s small progress, that goes on forever and you can’t see the end of it. That’s where I am right now, in the middle of the Atlantic with my new book and all you can do is keep going. Is it a tortuous, solitary process? Yes of course. The writer Hanif Kureishi said that to be a writer you have to have a very solitary existence.

My favourite phrase that I’ve come up with is that ‘I hate writing, but I love having written.’ That’s the biggest truth of my professional life. I don’t think I spoke to anybody all summer while writing The Silent Patient. I just wrote and wrote. When I was writing the last book, I would walk on Hampstead Heath every day, recording myself on the phone and I became

the character for about 3 months. Right now, I do a chapter a day, and if I do my chapter, I can sit on my couch and feel OK. If I haven’t done my chapter, it’s misery. What’s your biggest fear? I met my old professor after the book launch and told him that what I feel now is some validation. Which at my age, 41, is very nice. My professor said, ‘At any age, validation is great.’ It is fabulous, particularly when you’ve been writing for 20 years and never had any. My biggest fear was that I used to believe that the idea that I was talented was self-delusional and not self-belief. When I was 20, it was self-belief. When you are 40, it’s self-delusion. But that goes away every time somebody says they’ve read the book… I was always very ambitious. I wanted to win an Oscar at 13! I’m more ambitious now. I want to get validation and then after that I want a garden and dogs and someone to love me. Which fictional character would you like to be? I watched The Inheritance by Matthew Lopez and it was like ‘discovering Tennessee Williams before the alcoholism and the speed injections got to him’. It had such emotional clarity. Any of those characters I would wish to be. I felt they were held in such awareness and love and warmth. All I did after the play was cry and drink vodka. I went back to my flat and sat up all night writing because he inspired me to be a better man and a more honest writer; he inspired my third book. I’d like to be a character in a Matthew Lopez play because he loves them all, even the bad characters. What’s next for you? I know there’s another book on its way … I don’t want to be a one-hit wonder. My worry is you have a lifetime to write one thing, and the next one might be a disaster. I’d like to have a career as a novelist, but also after having made three films, I wasn’t happy with how any of them turned out, so I’d like to make a really good movie. The Silent Patient is being adapted into a movie and I am doing the screenplay for it. It’s going to be a very interesting experience and I’m going to learn a lot. In this difficult industry, who has been there for you? Uma Thurman has been so kind to me. We met because I wrote a film that she made, and the production was a disaster, not her or my fault, just the way it was. She took the time to explain to a budding writer how things do or don’t work. She said to me: ‘Every scene has to be an attempt at an iconic image.’ So, I learned from her. I told her that I was writing The Silent Patient and she told me that Alicia should be a painter. She helped me re-imagine the story. I learned more from her than three years at film school. The debt of gratitude I feel towards her is massive. She’s one of the most talented people I’ve met. It’s no coincidence that the only time Quentin Tarantino has given a story credit to someone other than himself was for the two Kill Bills, where he said ‘Story by QT and UT.’ Having worked with her and seen how much she did for me, I totally get it. She should be a director herself, she has a poet’s imagination and a visionary mind. She’s been a kind friend. I grew up loving her, she’s like Marilyn Monroe to me. It’s in my head before I die, to write a really great part for Uma and see her do it.

athens insider | 38 |

CULTURE

fe sti val Athens Festival, best of the fest If ever you need evidence of the relation between artistic creativity and political engagement, look no further. The Athens Festival serves as a prism to view the diversity and complexity of the world, provoking a dialogue between art and social reality. A round-up of the most thoughtprovoking highlights this June include Robert Wilson, described as Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vanguard theatre artist interpreting Oedipus at Epidaurus, rock legend Jethro Tull and acclaimed cellist Yo-Yo Ma performing under the stars at Herod Atticus.

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CULTURE

music dance & visual arts VIDEO INSTALLATION

Love Story

Î&#x2022;

30/05 30/06

What kind of stories move us? This seven-channel video-installation by the South African artist Candice Breitz interrogates the mechanisms of identification and empathy. Breitz calls out attention to the firsthand accounts of anonymous refugees, persons who typically remain nameless and faceless, juxtaposing them to the universal allure of celebrities. In the first space of the installation, Julianne Moore and Alec Baldwin re-enact excerpts from the interviews of six refugees. The fast-paced montage strips the intimate testimonies of their depth, complexity and nuances, turning them into a facile, mainstream product meant for popular consumption. In the second space, viewers can watch the original, uncut interview footage of refugees and migrants, including the shocking story of 23-year-old Sarah Mardini from Syria.

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Peiraios 260

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th ea tre

ROBERT WILSON MIKHAIL BARYSHNIKOV

Letter to a Man

1013/07 21:00

Celebrated artists Robert Wilson and Mikhail Baryshnikov step inside the shattered mind of one of the greatest dancers in history, Vaslav Nijinsky. Based on the iconic dancer’s diaries, which chronicles his descent into madness, this solo piece tackles the artist’s tormented sexuality and spirituality, as well as his tempestuous relationship with Sergei Diaghilev, to whom the letter of the title is addressed. Hal Willner’s collage-like score incorporates audio excerpts of the diaries with songs by Tom Waits, Arvo Pärt, Henry Mancini, and Soviet futurist composer Alexander Mosolov. Long fascinated by Nijinsky’s diaries, Baryshnikov sashays and staggers through Wilson’s landscape as he performs an exceptional, moving testimony of the last lucid moments in a man’s life. Onassis Cultural Centre

THOM LUZ

Girl from the Fog Machine Factory

CAROLINE GUIELA NGUYEN

Saigon

2829/06 21:00

2324/06 21:00

A modern fairytale with a magical finale that was chosen by the 56th Theatertreffen - Berliner Festspiele as one of the 10 most remarkable productions of the year. The new pperformance by Swiss artist Thom Luz, whose atmospheric productions are noted for their music and breathtaking imagery, tackles the most elusive aspects of human experience by clinging to that most ephemeral of materials: artificial fog. Is there any place for poetry in a world increasingly regulated by the laws of the market? In an attempt to save his factory from extinction, the owner and his staff begin to experiment, creating waterfalls made of fog, and misty replicas of famous artworks by Rodin, Giacometti and Böcklin. Peiraios 260

A restaurant, stuck in a liminal space/time continuum somewhere between 1990s Paris and 1950s Saigon, with Vietnamese pop music and French chansons playing in the background. The characters, of French, Vietnamese or French-Vietnamese descent, much like the actors portraying them, share landscapes, faces, songs and a language which, for some of them, survives only in their memories. They meet for dinner, drink, dance, sing, fall in love, and celebrate life. Caroline Guiela Nguyen, herself the daughter of a Vietnamese refugee in France, presents a heartbreaking, deeply moving, polyphonic story, whose male and female voices bear the traumas of history. Saigon is a wounded land where someone is always missing, someone is always mourned. Peiraios 260 athens insider | 42 |

val sti fe

mu sic CULTURE

MUSIC | SOLO CELLO

30/06

Yo-Yo Ma Widely considered the greatest cellist in the world, Yo-Yo Ma has received more than 18 Grammy Awards, as well as accolades including the Polar Music Prize (2012) and the United States National Medal of the Arts (2001). Throughout his career, he has joined partners from around the world and across disciplines to stretch the boundaries of genre and tradition, exploring how culture connects us. Last year, Yo-Yo began a new journey, setting out to perform Johann Sebastian Bachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s six suites for solo cello in one sitting in 36 locations across the globe, iconic venues that - like the Odeon - encompass our cultural heritage, our current creativity, and the challenges of peace and understanding that will shape our future. Odeon of Herodes Atticus

2526/06 21:00

OMAR RAJEH â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MAQAMAT

#minaret

Is it possible for an entire city to die, along with its values, history and culture? For a thousand years, the minaret of the Great Mosque in Aleppo rose over the largest city in Syria. Today, only ruins stand in its place. #minaret, a performance by the Lebanese choreographer Omar Rajeh, one of the most acclaimed dance artists in the Middle East, is an act of resistance against the destruction of one of the oldest cities on Earth, combining contemporary dance with visual arts and the musical tradition of Aleppo. Rajeh draws on the memories of the destruction of his home city, Beirut, seeking the thread connecting contemporary Aleppo with the ruined cities of the past.

da nce www.athensinsider.com

Peiraios 260 (H)

athens insider | 43 |

DIPLOMACY

Ioanna Koulakou Â©

Taking diplomacy to the streets

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DIPLOMACY

From murals at metro stations to Mayan medicine and Mexican cinema, Mexican Ambassador Daniel Hernández hopes to leave a permanent cultural imprint on the minds and hearts of Greeks. In a frank interview with Sudha Nair-Iliades he talks about trade, immigration, gay rights, and on why he finds Exarcheia’s gritty character so appealing.

Ioanna Koulakou ©

You’ve been very active in promoting cultural ties beyond the confines of museums and galleries – like this interactive young artists’ exchange. Why street art, and why at a metro station? Greece and Mexico are similar in that we are both ancient civilizations but at the same time we are eager to embrace contemporary art, thoughts and debate. We are both things, ancient and modern, and we bring our history and cultural legacy into our contemporary art. The elements that brought this project about was the connection of youth. Young Greeks like to express their thoughts, their feelings and their reactions to the world around them publicly, on the walls. They paint walls. So, we brought artists from both countries to do exactly that.

To share their art publicly, and that’s how the idea of a collaborative effort with Greek artists was formed. It was interesting to see how the two sets of artists recognized the similarities between our two countries but also how they approached their work artistically and intellectually. We wanted the maximum number of people to see it by placing them in public places. It is symbolic that the metro station is called Eirini or Peace, and that it is the entry point to the stadium that hosted the Olympic Games, itself a promoter of the values of solidarity, friendship and sportsmanship. What other cultural highlights can we look forward to in 2019? As always, we will have a strong showing at the Thessaloniki Film Festival. In fact, the Thessaloniki Film Festival had the vision to select Roma and present it along with a series of other very good Mexican films to a Greek audience, long before it cornered all the Oscars and BAFTAs. There will be more film screenings, perhaps even a Mexican film festival. We will also be participating at the LEA festival, the festival of Latin American literature in which all the Spanish and Portuguese-speaking countries participate but where Mexico always has a guest author present to speak about contemporary Mexican literature. We will also be inviting a Mayan healer who’ll speak on their perception of cosmology (there is a lot of interest for it in Greece) but also showcase Mexico’s pluralistic society. We speak over 60 indigenous languages in the country and we have bilingual and bi-cultural education for each of these languages.

athens insider | 45 |

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hen Mexico’s Ambassador to Greece, Mr Daniel Hernández, arrived two years ago, he immediately established that his brand of diplomacy wasn’t limited to closed doors and high desks. Hence the rather unusual choice of venue he suggested for our interview: Eirini metro station. Against the backdrop of an art wall spray-painted by Greek and Mexican muralists, our conversation punctuated by the stationmaster’s announcements, the Ambassador explained that the idea of a cultural encounter was to take art to a public space, using a medium that was relatable in both countries. One commuter described the murals as ‘tattoos on shared social skin’. That is exactly the kind of reaction the Ambassador had hoped the works would elicit: a sense of mutual proprietorship, of walls speaking the same language, and a near-permanence to the relationship; making streets into museums and brick into messages.

ARTS & EVENTS

Young Greeks like to express their thoughts and their reactions to the world around them publicly, on the walls. So, we brought artists from both countries to do exactly that. To share their art publicly

As last year, we also have plans to support the local Mexican community in celebrating The Day of the Dead, when around 600 people joined the parade in Plaka and Thisseio. You mentioned the film Roma, a Mexican story which speaks of social differences and discrimination which are issues also present in the causes and consequences of migration. What sentiments have been expressed to you by Mexicans about Greece’s refugee crisis? Again, both Mexico and Greece are similar when it comes to immigration as they are both places of transit. In our case, it’s migrants who want to go to the US; in Greece, it is migrants who want to head to other parts of Europe. We receive migrants who are fleeing from different kinds of violence – social, political or physical. And both our countries have policies of open arms, of defending human rights, empathy for what these migrants are going through, and an organized society keen to help them. Mexico has had Greeks living in Sinaloa since the 18th century. How does this influence the connection between our two countries? Most of it is connected to the seafaring characteristic of Greeks and that explains why the Greek community is concentrated around Sinaloa which is an important port in the Pacific, as well as why most Mexicans married to Greeks hail from these coastal towns! But there’s another history and that has to do with the elites and the intellectual side of Mexico where the understanding of classics, the

study of Ancient Greek language and Greek philosophy is fundamental to Mexican thought. A lot of Mexicans living in Greece are an intellectual group of artists, writers, thinkers and creative personalities who were attracted by the history of the Athenaeums (centres of study of Greek thought and philosophy) in Mexico. So, we have a lot of interaction with people from the fields of literature and theatre who’ve made Greece their home. They remain very active in Mexican literature, in Spanish theatre, or plays translated into Greek, and of course, music. So, the community is extremely active in the arts. Your readers should follow us on social media to keep up to date with all the activities – not just those promoted by the Embassy – but those of the Mexican community. You mentioned that most people perceive Mexico to be an agricultural country when it is, in fact, an industrial nation. I am surprised at how little we know of each other and of how little we are aware of our contemporary reality. We are an industrial nation. We are not a commodities country. We are a manufacturing nation. Few people know that we are the first producers of flat screens in the world, or that we are the seventh producer and fourth exporter of automobiles. We are major players in the aerospace industry. I’m working on finding a partnership with business people in Greece so that we use our experience in automobile manufacturing and aerospace and bring it to ship-building. We do compete in the agricultural sector where we are the main producers of avocados and limes, for example, but we are essentially an industrial nation. We are one of the most connected, open economies

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DIPLOMACY

in the world with trade agreements with 46 countries. Around 70% of our GDP depends on international trade and most of it is in industrialized products. We are now graduating over 120,000 engineers every year, so it also has to do with the human capital of the country. Mexicans are very creative in the arts, but we are also becoming a powerhouse when it comes to science and technology. Ambassador, what about reinforcing trade ties with the EU, given the rather tenuous relations with the US? Mexico has always wanted to diversify and certainly one of the weak aspects of our economy has been the concentration, as huge as it is, on one single market, that is our relationship with the US which comprises almost 75% of our imports and exports. So, diversification would give us some stability. Recent events have brought that issue back into light and triggered an internal discussion in Mexico on doing something about it. We just renewed our global agreement with the EU. We have USD 62 billion of trade with the EU and we expect trade with the new agreement to grow significantly.

Your favourite corner in Athens? As much as I like to walk the tourist trails of Plaka and Monastiraki, Psyrri and Gazi, I love to walk in Omonoia and Exarcheia and all these other grittier places that speak to the Athens of today, the Athens of immigration, of youth, the Athens of artists, of social conflict, of social thought. Generally, the places where you can feel the life of Athens of today. Finally, Ambassador, what would you like your legacy in Greece to be? I don’t think of how I want to be remembered; rather the other way around, of how much of Greece I will keep engraved in my heart and take with me forever. As a diplomat, I travel a lot, but some places stay tattooed in your heart and Greece is one of them. What I’d like to leave is the desire and enthusiasm to continue to do works that stay, that will always be present, and will continue to reinforce the connection between the two countries. Follow the Mexican Embassy on

Embajada de México en Grecia.

Your posting here coincides with Greece easing its way out of a ten-year crisis. With Brexit looming and the European elections likely playing on questions of identity, how much has all this informed your daily duties and reports back to Mexico? I am certainly reporting, and I think the world is certainly more dynamic. At least, nobody is getting bored! There is a tremendous amount of uncertainty: the world has changed dramatically; it has changed technologically, but it has also changed in very positive ways. We need to think about the reduction of extreme poverty worldwide, the reduction of hunger worldwide in the last 20 years, and these issues need to be continued to be looked at as an example of what international cooperation has managed to achieve. I think the outlook is extremely positive. As long as we keep our eye on the ball – which is reducing inequalities and improving the quality of life of the majority of the population – all other issues will iron themselves out.

YOU AND GREECE: What is the best perk of being stationed in Greece? The people, the music, the art, the dancing – I still haven’t learned to dance! Prospatho, I’m trying! Which place in Greece has inspired you most? I have travelled all around Greece, but not enough. The more I travel, the more I find out about places I need to visit. So, it seems like an endless endeavour. I like Halkidiki, Thrace and Macedonia, I’d love to go back to Skopelos, Tinos – each of the islands and destinations have their own secrets waiting to be discovered and it is for each person to find out which are the secrets that speak to them. athens insider | 47 |

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You’ve been active in supporting Athens Pride and LGBTQ rights in Greece. What shocks or encourages you with reference to homosexual rights in Greece? The interesting thing is that you have this idea of Europe being at the forefront of human rights and then we find that many Latin American countries, not just Mexico but also Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay etc have had marriage equality, non-discrimination laws, protection against discrimination, and to some degree it is a bit of surprise to find Europe lagging behind on some issues. On the other hand, it becomes a matter of pride how in our own culture and societies, we have been able to address these issues which are very difficult, and we are very happy to share the experience. We think that each culture has to have its own pace, its own reality, its own timing according to its own history, its social composition and the role and weight of its own social actors. It should not be forced upon the world but rather encouraged and worked on together internationally rather than individually. That is why with Athens Pride, as well with all other issues dealing with human rights, such as rights of migrants, Mexico will continue to be a loud voice on the issue.

fast lane

Islands of the mind This June, the Durrell library of Corfu brings together writers, artists, environmentalists, cultural theorists and psychologists in a major scientific and literary festival. Entitled “What is the meaning of islands and how do we relate to them?”, the festival, which will take place June 23-28 on the island, focuses on the psychology of “islomania”, the “affliction of spirit” for those who find islands irresistible. Island writing, islands as a microcosm of biodiversity, the “tourist gaze” and tourism as a dimension of island development are among the topics that will be discussed. The speakers include Spyros Orfanos, a native of the Diapontic island of Ereikousa (Corfu) and now Professor of Psychology at New York University, Lee Durrell (widow of Gerald Durrell and honorary director of the Durrell Wildlife Preservation Trust), and Richard Pine, director of the Durrell Library and author of “Lawrence Durrell: the Mindscape”. This will be the most significant gathering for many years of experts on the lives and works of Lawrence Durrell, Gerald Durrell and Theodore Stephanides, as well as on the writers of Corfu, Konstantin Theotokis and Spyros Plaskovitis. To register, email: durrelllibrarycorfu@gmail. com. durrelllibrarycorfu.org

Elefsina, European Capital of Culture, 2021 Elefsina has been chosen as a European Capital of Culture in 2021, along with Novi Sad in Serbia and Timisoara in Romania. One of Greece’s five sacred cities, Elefsina’s sacred rituals known as the “Eleusinian Mysteries” attracted pilgrims to the city from all over the known world between 1600 BC and 400 AD. The city is also the birthplace of the great tragic poet Aeschylus, in whose honour the Aeschylia Festival has been organized since 1975. In a case of urban planning gone awry, distilleries, cement plants, soap factories, and later refineries took residence among the priceless ancient monuments and antiquities which dotted the area. The city deteriorated over the last decades into a drab, tired post-industrial town. But it has recently launched an urban regeneration programme to convert its unused factories into museums. Today, the hill encompassing spectacular archaeological ruins and the Archaeological Museum take pride of place in the centre of the city. The Sacred Way or Iera Odos, the road which connects ancient Eleusis with Athens, has now been restored. “Transition to Euphoria” is the municipality’s theme for preparations in the lead-up to the big year, and already the city is starting to resemble an arts workshop: exhibits with subjects ranging from artistic photography to labour strife are seen all over town. eleusis2021.eu

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With connections to 98 destinations at enviable fares, from its hub in Casablanca, RAM offers a gateway to the Americas and Africa, as well as 19 domestic routes in Morocco.

Royal Air Maroc: Ready for take-off

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From her Royal Air Maroc (RAM) office, perched on the 21st floor of the Athens Tower, Hind El Khadiri views Athens almost as passengers on her airline will see the city when coming into land – white sugar-cubes scintillating in the warm spring sun, drawing the eye out to the shimmering horizon where it meets the cloudless blue sky. After a lapse of 19 years, this April, RAM launches its first direct flight from Casablanca to Athens, a dream El Khadiri has been working to make reality since her posting here in Athens. “The new direct flight aims to reinforce the company’s services to European destinations accessible from Casablanca, while strengthening RAM’s position as one of Africa’s strongest companies linking Europe and North America to Africa with more than 98 destinations worldwide,” she explains. The inaugural flight launches on April 4, with the Athens-Casablanca route serviced by an Embraer190 featuring 12 seats in business-class and 84 in economy. The route will be operated twice a week, throughout the year, with flights departing from Casablanca at 12h00 local time and arriving in Athens at 18h05. The return flights will depart from Athens at 19h05 and land in Casablanca at 21h30. El Khadiri points out: “Both our countries are tourist destinations – and Morocco remains an exotic getaway for Greeks. With easy connections to 19 destinations in Morocco, it is bound to facilitate both incoming and outbound traffic to Greece.” To celebrate its launch, the airline offers special promotional discounts to Casablanca and Marrakesh at fares of just 279 euros, as well as an irresistible offer from Athens to New York for just 389 euros, with a stopover in Casablanca at accommodation courtesy of RAM. Other inaugural promotional offers include flights to Washington, Dakar, Accra and Lagos, for tickets booked until April 15. To book flights, visit royalairmaroc.com or contact travel agencies and booking services.

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Morocco’s flag carrier Royal Air Maroc launches direct flights from Athens to Casablanca this April. Hind El Khadiri, the airline’s country manager, counts down to the first flight.

A museum for the masters A new museum, The Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art, housing paintings and sculptures by Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gaugin, Monet, Degas, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Bonnard, Pollock, Matisse and Braque, as well as works by prominent Greek artists such as Parthenis, Bouzianis, Vassiliou, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, Tsarouchis, Moralis and Tetsis, opens to the public this October 1. The museum houses the private art collection of Basil and Eliza Goulandris, offering the public the chance to see this astonishing collection of artworks for the first time. Set in a magnificent 11-storey neoclassical building on Pangrati’s Eratosthenous Street, the museum will feature permanent and temporary exhibitions, workshops for children and adults, a library, a café, a restaurant, offices and a modern 190-seat amphitheatre within its 7,250 square metre space, says Fleurette Karadontis, president of the museum. “We were fortunate in terms of the neighbourhood,” she says. “During the years of the recession, Pangrati literally transformed. It became attractive for young people, for tourists and for many young, creative Athenians. We hope to make use of this positive trend for Pangrati and insert our museum into peoples’ daily lives.” Tel: +30.210.725.2895.

Old vines, new times Sometime over the past 10 years, while few were paying much attention, Greek wines got good. So if you’ve found yourself sipping an Assyrtiko or a Malagousia during your stay in Greece and been pleasantly surprised by the experience, you’re in good company. While other European wine regions have occupied the spotlight, Greek wine-makers have been quietly modernizing age-old techniques and going about winning award after award at influential international wine shows for their excellent domestic grape varietals, made from some of the oldest vines on the planet. With devoted wine drinkers always thirsty for the next big viniculture story, it was only a matter of time before word got out. Now, some of these assured and great value Greek wines are being shared with the world thanks to a new Greek venture, Inopolis. The passion project of two Athens-based sons of the Greek diaspora, Costas Kotsianis and Dimitris Dardanis, Inopolis is on a quest to export the best of Greece’s vineyards to wine-worshipping territories like Australia, Denmark and the UK. In tandem with one of Greece’s only certified Masters of Wine, Yiannis Karakasis, the pair has curated a compelling showcase of the country’s most deserving drops. inopolis.com

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Tools for a Restless Traveller Equipping visitors to Greece with ToposText’s searchable library of ancient texts and maps, Brady Kiesling encourages them to experience the joy he himself feels at each encounter with antiquity

y father loved fine tools. Like many of the thousands of books on his shelves, his lathe and his Uzi were more a projection of the resourceful adventurer he dreamed of being than an accurate reflection of the life he led. When I started work on ToposText, I was making a tool for a person I wanted to be, a man who died in 1860 without ever owning a smart phone. I am not the only diplomat who would rather have been Colonel William Leake of the Royal Artillery and Royal Society. The mission Leake accepted as a classically trained young artillery officer was to keep Napoleon off the Greek mainland by helping the Ottoman Empire defend itself. A keen military eye, material inducements to lubricate his welcome, and insatiable curiosity made Leake a highly effective diplomat to Ali of Tepelenë, the Sultan’s shrewd, unquiet pasha in northwest Greece.

Leake’s orders took for granted he would be out of contact with his superiors for months at a time, with war (or peace) breaking out unpredictably. As a U.S. embassy political officer two centuries later, I envied Leake’s long leash. But I envied more the uncharted territory it was his gift to explore: “Tenth.—In pursuit of the same objects, you will pay particular attention to the general geography of Greece, with a view to acquire for the British Government and nation a more accurate knowledge than has yet been attained, of this important and interesting country.” We can read the results of Leake’s archaeological curiosity in the thick books he wrote over the next forty years. The rigours of travel on horseback, with uneducated local guides, suspicious Albanian minders, lice, mud, river crossings and diplomatic crises, survive as remarks in passing; what interested him instead was piecing together a jigsaw puzzle of ancient texts, fragmentary inscriptions, collapsed

People with the right tools in their pocket can become, for a few hours on a Mediterranean hillside, the resourceful adventurers they would like to be admiring in the mirror

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TRAVEL

Every inch of the Greek landscape has a myth attached, or a battle, or has been sculpted into its characteristic beauty by the sweat and tears of a hundred generations.

walls, corroded coins, and broken roof-tiles into an accurate map of the Classical Greece he admired. He saw that record as the best gift he could offer the young Greek state, whose glorious past was its only diplomatic asset. Like Leake (and more diplomats than you might expect), I am an introvert. We distract the hungry bats at the back of our soul by solving puzzles, and the most glorious puzzle imaginable is an unfamiliar landscape to decipher. I had the good fortune to serve in Armenia in 1997-99. Our diplomatic mission, of brokering peace, reforming the economy, and democratizing the warlords, would have cost far more than America was prepared to spend. So on weekends I ventured out in search of megaliths and medieval monasteries. Maps were deliberately vague, and no English guidebook was in print, but the State Department had taught me Armenian. I scrounged books from the flea market and scanned Soviet military maps, then put my travel notes on line. “Rediscovering Armenia” became a small service to a country we wanted to help, emboldening Yerevan-bound expatriates and tourists to spend time and money exploring a beautiful, little-known country. But ancient Greece was my first love. I came to Athens as an archaeology student in 1979 and was seduced. Every inch of the Greek landscape has a myth attached, or a battle, or has been sculpted into its characteristic beauty by the sweat and tears of a hundred generations. Unlike most societies, the ancient Greeks wrote down their tragedies as they happened, and we can still read some of them. My dream of reading ancient texts in their proper setting became possible after 2012 thanks to new technology, digital maps, and selfless scholars who put the key ancient texts online. I was lucky to find an idealistic tech company, Pavla A.E., that shared my dream, and ultimately the Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation stepped in to make ToposText a traveller’s tool we could give away for free. athens insider | 53 |

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TRAVEL

The nymphs may indeed have departed; certainly the ancient coins and inscriptions Leake was shown in every village have been gathered up and locked away. But the riddle of an ancient landscape remains fresh in Greece for each person who sets out to solve it. By arming visitors with ToposText, even if only to signal the existence of a ruined 4th century BC tower atop the viperous hillside behind their beach recliner, I hope to encourage them to experience a flicker of the joy Leake felt and I still feel at each encounter with antiquity. Leake’s decoding of the Greek landscape was an amazing accomplishment. Had he been armed with ToposText’s searchable library of ancient texts and maps, research that took him a lifetime could have been carried out then and there, riding his horse amid the eloquently tumbled stones. A more mundane use for ToposText will be by a generation too poor to buy the classics library Leake’s state pension afforded. Students can pull up in real time the paragraph their teachers are quoting, make Xenophon’s Anabasis more intelligible by following the Ten Thousand on the built-in map, or amuse themselves with 124 mentions of cats in 30 ancient texts. The tool does not make the user. When my Snap-On socket wrenches, a Christmas gift from my father, were stolen in the port of Casablanca in 1985, I never replaced them because my skills as a mechanic did not justify such heavy, expensive beauties. My father’s Uzi, still virginal, went to the police station when he died. Nevertheless, in creating ToposText as a free, weightless accessory, I was asserting my faith that an ancient tradition of curious travellers is still alive. People with the right tools in their pocket can become, for a few hours on a Mediterranean hillside, the resourceful adventurers they would like to be admiring in the mirror.

Unlike most societies, the ancient Greeks wrote down their tragedies as they happened, and we can still read some of them.

ToposText:

a Classical Multi-Tool

1. Portable free classics library:

700

The full text of ancient works – every major primary source for Greek history and mythology, plus a good sample of literature. 2. Site-finder: A searchable map of thousands of ancient places across the Mediterranean, plus Greek sites and museums, accurately located in relation to where the searcher stands. 3. Travel guide: Brief descriptions of ancient sites in Greece. 4. Meaning provider: The ancient primary

3,000 11,000 sources on

ancient places and

ancient people (plus their gods and cats). See at a glance how each ancient author treats the same person/place. Detect ancient plagiarism, identify divergent mythologies.

5. Look-up tool: Browse in seconds to a specific text paragraph, with a link to the original Greek or Latin. 6. Proximity search tool: Scan the ToposText.org website for any two terms near each other.

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CULTURE

Cultural treasures When in Athens, get up close and personal with the antiquities, explore Greek, Byzantine and Ottoman culture, and familiarise yourself with the contemporary artistic scene in Athens. Devote two days to museum hopping to get a feel for Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s layered history and end with a visual performance at one of the newer cultural venues in Athens.

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CULTURE

Head for the Parthenon by noon before the blinding white light reflecting off millennia-old marble and the throngs of tourists get the better of you. Rising like a glass sphinx mirroring the Parthenon, the Acropolis Museum has received more visitors than the ancient temple, a resounding endorsement for the museum that celebrates its tenth anniversary this summer. Take in the meticulously curated ancient artefacts and themed exhibitions, followed by an epicurean lunch with touching-distance views of the Acropolis. The restaurant is open for lunch every day and on Friday evenings with a live jazz band for company. Dionysiou Areopagitou St, Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolimuseum.gr

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THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

CULTURE

THE MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART This exceptional museum is dedicated to the iconic minimalist marble Cycladic figurines, dating back almost 5,000 years, a precursor to modern sculpture with their simplicity and purity of form inspiring 20th-century artists including Picasso and Modigliani. Other than its stunning Bronze Age figurines, the museum also features Greek and Cypriot art dating from 2000 BC to the 4th century AD, sharing space with works in temporary exhibitions by contemporary heavyweights like George Condo, Ai Weiwei and Paul Chan. The airy, light-filled cafĂŠ makes for a great pit stop for a light lunch or coffee. Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: 2107228321, cycladic.gr

THE BYZANTINE AND CHRISTIAN MUSEUM A stunningly beautiful setting, in a sprawling garden with the heady scent of orange blossoms and jasmine permeating the air, the Byzantine and Christian Museum houses a treasure trove of sacred icons, mosaics and textiles. A must-stop for Byzantium fans, the museum stocks an impressive collection dating back to the 3rd century, a powerful reminder of the legacy and richness of the Byzantine era. Vas. Sofias 22, Tel: 213 213. 9517, byzantinemuseum.gr

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CULTURE

THE BENAKI MUSEUM Arguably one of the finest eclectic museums in Europe, the Benaki Museum offers a quick Greek history 101, covering everything from folk costumes to 20th-century paintings. Its three floors showcase impeccable treasures from the Bronze Age up to WWII. Especially impressive are the Byzantine icons and the extensive collection of Greek regional costumes, as well as intricately carved salons and boudoirs from Macedonian mansions. The museum has two annexes: one in Kerameikos housing the Museum of Islamic Art and the Pireos Avenue branch for contemporary art. The museum shop is a treasure-trove of creative, contemporary Greek design, inspired by traditional jewellery and motifs. Long a favoured haunt for the well-heeled, the Benaki café offers wholesome Greek meals with illustrator Antonis Kyriakoulis’ quirky caricatures gracing the walls and tableware. Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr

Set in a stunning neo-classical building, the National Archaeological Museum ranks among the world’s most important museums. It houses the finest collection of Greek antiquities dating from the Neolithic era to Classical periods, including the Ptolemaic era in Egypt. Make time to take in its impressive collection of exquisite sculptures, pottery, jewellery, frescoes and artefacts from all over Greece. The museum’s beautifully presented exhibits are displayed by theme, while the temporary exhibitions make a terrific introduction to the rich legacy of early Greek art. The café provides shady respite, with its palm-fringed gardens evoking a different Greece. Patission 44, Tel: 210.821.7724, namuseum.gr athens insider | 59 |

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THE NATIONAL ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM

CULTURE

STAVROS NIARCHOS FOUNDATION The new home of Greece’s National Opera and National Library, the Stavros Niarchos complex, surrounded by a 52-acre park dotted with olive orchards, running tracks and picnic spots, is where all the creative action is. Renzo Piano’s glass and steel landmark, which towers over the Athenian Riviera skyline with enviable views to the Saronic Gulf and to the Acropolis, delivers on its soaring promise of being the cultural epicentre of this vibrant city. An estimated 5 million Athenians visited it in its first year of operation, enthusiastically embracing its rich cultural repertoire and activities that range from yoga on its lawns, tango lessons and kayaking on the canal. Syngrou Ave. 364, Tel: 216.809.1000, snfcc.org

THE ONASSIS CULTURAL CENTRE With intelligent programming and top-notch acts, the Onassis Cultural Centre has within nine years managed to provoke artistic debate among Athenians and tourists alike, starting with Tim Etchell’s bold neon sign that graces its exterior: ‘All we have is words, all we have is worlds’. Its opening in 2009 coincided with the lowest point in Greek morale, and its role as a catalyst has been transformative and uplifting, elevating Greeks to aspire for the sublime when everything else seemed to be crashing around them. The gourmet restaurant on the top floor matches the innovativeness and high aspirations of the centre’s cultural repertoire. Syngrou Ave. 107-109, Tel: 213.017.8000, onassis.org athens insider | 60 |

30% off

Glyfada, A. Metaxa 34 Tel: 210-8948510, occhio3@occhio.gr Kallithea, El. Venizelou 133 Tel: 210-9577464, occhio1@occhio.gr

for all Athens Insider fans!

Nea Smyrni, Omirou 64 Tel: 210-9314218, occhio2@occhio.gr

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Tel: 210-9313138, occhio4@occhio.gr Maroussi, Golden Hall

Tel: 210-6199488, occhio5@occhio.gr Stadiou 5, Athens

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CULTURE

Tel: 210-3210042, occhio6@occhio.gr

#BAREFOOT EXTRAVAGANZA PHOTOGRAPHY: Alina Lefa FASHION EDITOR: Eleutheria Domenikou MAKE-UP and HAIR: Katerina Papageorgiou MODEL: Naomi ( D Models) PHOTO ASSISTANT: Stephie Grape

Bracelets from the 'Heritage' line, earrings from the 'Classics' line, and gold chain necklace. All in 22k gold, by ZOLOTAS. athens insider | 62 |

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LEFT: Vanilla Rashguard top and high waist bikini bottom by Stella McCartney, SALTWATER, sunglasses by LOUIS VUITTON and silver ring, BENAKI MUSEUM SHOP.

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Black silk cocktail dress by Tom Ford, LINEA PIU. Moon and Star diamond earrings worn as a headpiece and wooden bracelet studded with diamonds, KESSARIS.

Gold letter earrings by Chanel and studded top by Tom Ford, LINEA PIU

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Long, pink gold sequin dress by Tom Ford, LINEA PIU. Titanium leaf earrings by KESSARIS.

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Beige washed twill trenchcoat by Tom Ford, Pendant necklace Chanel, LINEA PIU. Orange wrap swimsuit by Stella McCartney, SALTWATER.

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Earrings, rings and pendant necklaces, LALAOUNIS. Long, metallic dress, ZADIG & VOLTAIRE.

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Yellow studded draped skirt by Alexandre Vauthier, LUISA. 'Coco Lifesaver' bag by Chanel, LINEA PIU Happy Hearts Collection bangle, CHOPARD.

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www.athensinsider.com Striped bow dress by Alexandre Vauthier, LUISA. 'City Box' bag, LINEA PIU. Gold-plated earrings and embroidered bracelet, BENAKI MUSEUM SHOP. athens insider | 73 |

Silk, printed dress by Saint Laurent, LUISA Titanium and diamond earrings, KESSARIS

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Minimal and very feminine, Daphne Valenteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;unhingedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pieces with soft, straight-hanging lines look effortless and statuesque, combining elegance with simplicity. Her fashion jewellery line evokes that same sense of timeless sophistication.

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FASHION

High priestess of pleats Her sculptural forms feel like moving pieces of fine art. She painstakingly twists and contorts fine chiffon into new forms and shapes that make for stunning showmanship and thoughtprovoking self-expression. Daphne Valente’s sculpted works of wearable art are as timeless in their sophistication as the designer herself.

t was Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny’s Delphos gown, inspired by Greek antiquity, with its flowing, masterful folds resembling columns, that set Daphne Valente onto her pleated fashion destiny. In her 35-year career, her sculptural fabrics, mirroring the ageless beauty of Ancient Greek statues, have attired many an elegant Athenian, while her trademark pleated scarves, adorned many a graceful neck. Daphne’s meticulousness in design is evident even in her space-agey packaging. Her scarves are rolled into what can only be described as a ‘hi-tech Grecian column’ and come complete with a guide to the myriad ways you can wear the scarf – proving both the versatility and the pliability of pleated fabric.

You studied at London’s very prestigious Central Saint Martin’s? Yes, but before that I went to FIT in New York. But that was just an excuse for me to party at Studio 54! I had no idea how prestigious Saint Martin’s was, at the time. I guess I got accepted because I spoke my way through – my portfolio was non-existent. I was in the same year as John Galliano, and graduated in ’83; my degree collection, based on printed trompe l'oeil (optical illusion) dresses, was considered very original and was bought by Browns. Then I made the big mistake of quitting London to move back to Greece, which was very conservative then. I had all these crazy ideas and I felt completely lost. So, for many years, everybody would say ‘oh the new talent’ but I could see no money coming into my bank account. athens insider | 77 |

You’ve been one of the pioneers in Greek fashion, what drew you to fashion in the first place? My aunt had an atelier in Kolonaki in the ‘50s and she used to collaborate with Guy Laroche, then a young designer in Paris. He’d send her patterns of his collection and they would make clothes for Athens’ elite ladies. There was a lot of activity at the atelier, with ladies trying out new dresses, buying clothes. I remember sitting on Queen Frederika’s lap, in between her fittings. So, I grew up in this stylish ambience. As a child, I was artistically inclined – I was very good with my hands, making and sculpting things. At first I thought I was going to study theatre design and costumes but then I decided to go for fashion.’

FASHION

leather or fur on any of my designs because I believe there are so many alternatives to keep warm; what’s the point of breeding poor animals just to kill them for a coat. I find it appalling that it’s taken this long and so many fur coats for some of the fashion houses to finally speak up against fur. I hope I’m going to be proven wrong, but I’m sure in a couple of years, they are going to say ‘We’ve changed our minds, now fur is back in fashion.’ Fashion is very frivolous in that sense. But I’ve loved animals and lived with animals all my life, so I can’t accept the idea of killing animals for vanity.

Daphne Valente's SS19 show 'Making Waves' featuring a dress made of plastic debris. © Boris Pilipenko

How did you hone your creative style? I found my creative style quite early. I went to see Mariano Fortuny’s exhibition at a museum in Brighton. Here was a designer who, at a time when ladies were dressed in corsets, liberated the body by designing Grecian-inspired dresses of pleated silk. When I entered this museum, I had no clue as to who he was and it was like a revelation for me. I started looking for ways to pleat my first skirt, my first dress and so on. Now pleats are all the rage... Yes! It upsets me because I always like to go against the trends. It also upsets me that in Greece I am referred to as the ‘Greek Miyake’. This is because although I consider Miyake to be a brilliant designer, I was designing pleats in ’87 and he launched them in ’94. In addition, we have a completely different approach to pleating. I sculpt the pleated fabric on the body, while Miyake sews the garment first and then he pleats. He does geometry, while I do sculpture. Describe your creative process. I’ve been designing for almost 35 years. So, every season, I go through hell saying the well of ideas has dried up. And then when I have the first thought, the cascade starts, it’s a rush of creative energy. But every season starts in agony… I approach my fun, colourful collection of jewellery as a three-dimensional process by sculpting designs in silver or gold foil and often wear my foil jewellery until I’ve tweaked it the way I want. My jewellery is more tongue-in-cheek, more statement pieces. You’ve used your fashion shows and your reputation as a platform to draw awareness to animal rights abuse. Fashion with a conscience? Well, since the beginning of my professional career, I’ve never used

Your fashion show for SS19, ‘Making Waves’, highlighted marine pollution. What is the sea now? It’s a mess; it’s a sea of plastic bags. Fashion has a powerful voice and I believe that it has to pass on a positive message and shake things up by creating awareness. So, before the show, I collaborated with Greenpeace and we showed a short video of the state of our oceans. My collection had to do with the movement of the sea and the waves shaping the garments. It was a very floaty collection and at the finale, the last model came out wearing a dress that looked from the distance like an haute couture wedding gown but when she approached the audience, they realized it was made out of plastic bags, plastic straws, plates, cutlery – all the garbage you find at the beach – and you could sense they were shocked. Then the model dramatically turns, faces the audience, rips her plastic dress apart and underneath, a very pure, simple, clean-cut dress emerges, printed with a calm beautiful sea. It was to show that you can get rid of the garbage and regain the beauty of the sea. Karl Lagerfeld, who recently passed away, said that elegance is an attitude. Would you concur? I just discovered that I share my birthday with the late Karl Lagerfeld and Elsa Schiaparelli! But to come back to your question, elegance might now be considered old-fashioned, but I physically hurt when I see the trend towards ugliness. How would you describe a typical DV customer? My customer is a sophisticated stylish woman. She loves the timeless quality of my designs and she enjoys capturing the attention in her elegant simplicity. My designs are one size, they are very versatile, they travel extremely well and their ‘antique-meets-modern’ aesthetic offers a sense of quality and style. Daphne Valente’s collections are sold in Greece, Cyprus and Lebanon in exclusive boutiques and resorts, while her accessories are sold at the art shops of the Stavros Niarchos Foundation, at the Benaki Museum Shop and at the Lalaounis Jewellery Museum. daphne-valente.com

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FASHION FASHION & STYLE

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ÂŠ Akiss Parasevopoulos Studio

Greek fashion has an identity now. It's a pleasant surprise to find new Greek designers with very focused products who draw their inspiration from their Greek roots. That is something I was screaming about from the beginning of my career - that our roots empower us.

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AGORA

DAZZ LING 1

INSP I R AT IONS 3

4 2

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AGORA

1. ROLEX LADY-DATEJUST, ΠATSEAS. 2. PASQUALE BRUNI VENTO ATELIER 18K WHITE GOLD EARRING WITH LONDON BLUE TOPAZ & DIAMONDS, ODYSSEUS 3. CHOPARD L.U.C FLYING T TWIN, KASSIS 4. VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY SELF WINDING BLUE DIAL, ΠATSEAS 5. CHOPARD EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, KASSIS 6. VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS TOURBILLON, ΠATSEAS 7. CHOPARD RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, KASSIS 8. SUTRA PINK GOLD EARRINGS WITH DIAMONDS , SAPPHIRE AND OPAL, VENETIA VILDIRIDIS 9. &10. WHITE GOLD EARRINGS WITH WHITE DIAMONDS AND BLACK ENAMEL, WHITE GOLD NECKLACE WITH WHITE DIAMONDS, EMERALD AND BLACK ENAMEL, NIKOS KOULIS. athens insider | 81 |

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CITY LIFE

If Athens were on a dating app, which way would you swipe? If Athens were on a dating app, it would attract a wide variety of suitors, all finding it irresistible for completely different reasons. Check which elusive dating profile meshes with yours, suggests Sudha Nair-Iliades, and and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be rewarded with an Athens that is your perfect match!

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Anafiotika

Incurable romantic

If Instagrammable images of pastel-painted homes with wroughtiron balconies weighed down by bougainvilleas seduce you, succumb to the promise of Anafiotika and its narrow winding alleys. Even the cats here wear a contemplative look, as they laze philosophically on whitewashed walls. Geraniums potted in rusted olive oil cans line the streets. You become aware that the history that runs beneath your feet is as rich as the ancient columns and temples that surround you. Beauty and substance. What’s not to like? A close contender would be Dexameni, where there’s as much island charm as there is laidback urban vibe. Perfectly coiffed and preened ladies in kitten heels negotiate the steep, uphill climb to its fountains and bustling cafe, the smell of crackling pop-corn permeates the air from the open-air cinema and old film posters lend it timeless allure. Slo-mo seduction!

EXarcheia

If wafts of tear gas and spray paint fumes send you on an adrenaline high, look no further than Exarcheia. Its ubiquitous graffiti and peeling facades camouflage genteel trappings – atmospheric bars like Luxor and Alexandrino, organic stores, pop-up galleries, vegan restaurants (even a totally meat-free souvlaki joint) and neo-tavernas with old-world charms like Ama Lachei. The uninitiated, not brave enough to venture into ‘anarchy territory’, miss a rare opportunity to witness ‘artistic activism in action’ and truly understand the angst-ridden heart of a troubled but tender Athens. athens insider | 83 |

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Irreverent/Alternative

Nikis street

Closet epicurean

Once you’ve got your MSG-fix, you feel the urge to move on to quesadillas, followed by dim-sums, but then the irresistible impulse to try out the new curry-house colonises your brain. You claim it’s not cuisine-infidelity but just a bon vivant craving for more variety. Nikis Street beckons you. Fiery, adventurous and brazen, the food options served up on this central Athens street range from Hawaiian to Colombian street food, Peruvian, Thai, Indian, Greek-Japanese, vegetarian, Korean and counting. If you’re more inclined towards rustic rather than worldly fare, Evripidou might be your calling. Just steps away from the city’s central market, Evripidou is particularly famed for its herbs and spices, with huge wicker baskets of oregano, sage and thyme – and precious packets of saffron – exuding aromas of sunkissed Greek hillsides.

Evripidou

Label-lover

An over-powering urge to reach for your wallet and an uncontainable desire to bag it all – if words were selfies, you’d recognize yourself. Don’t fight your true nature, yield to the beguiling charms of the pedestrianized Ermou Street and get into consumerist overdrive, shopping for high-street brands. Want to splurge more? Voukourestiou is your playground. This street has all the glitter and frills you could crave, with designer brands including Prada and Louis Vuitton and a sparkling array of fine jewellery purveyors. If that doesn’t sate your wants, Attica Department Store, which stocks over 850 international brands under one roof, should do the trick. athens insider | 84 |

CITY LIFE

Pangrati Kypseli

Humble hipster

Beard? Check. Skinny pants? Check. Cuffed pant-legs? You get the picture. You work hard to get the cool, laid-back thing going, layering vintage with new in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;studied negligenceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as the French would say, then newly trendy central hub Pangrati and Kypseli, with its messy, unpredictable, creative vibe, will have you come knocking. In both densely populated neighbourhoods, middle-class sensibilities meet restless social entrepreneurship to take the form of design collectives, hyphenated restaurants and theatre ensembles. Cerebral and seductive.

Voukourestiou

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Ermou street

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CITY LIFE

Monastiraki

Bargain-hunter

It’s all about the deal. Scouring for treasures in what others might consider trash. You’re seduced by vintage stores, thrift shops, flea markets and antiques. Monastiraki, Psyrri and Athinas might quench your thirst for all things retro. These neighbouring districts are where you’ll find knife-sharpeners, shirt-makers, basket-weavers, even a store that specializes in beads and baubles for donkeys! Classic taverna chairs and copper brikis for Greek coffee dangle off rafters – the look and feel here is Levantine, of wistful melancholy! How can you possibly resist?

Ag. Eirini

Glyfada

Night-owl

You suffer from chronic FOMO (fear of missing out, peeps) insomnia fuelled by caffeine binges and still have loads of nervous energy to channel. This could end up being a Tinder dilemma, as almost everywhere in the city qualifies! But for bar-hopping into the wee hours, Aghia Eirini Square and Gazi vie for top ranking in the city centre, with cool new drinking dens endlessly popping up on their labyrinthine streets, while coastal Glyfada is home to summer’s super-venues (including the live bouzouki playgrounds), for drinking and dancing under the stars. athens insider | 86 |

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CITY LIFE

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CITY LIFE

Vouliagmeniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discreet allure Vouliagmeni promises island magic, alluring glamour and great dining options but its real charm lies in its off-grid beauty. Wedged between the craggy shoulder of the Hymettus and the inviting turquoise sweep of the Saronic, this coastal suburb just 20 kilometres off the city centre, is all the more precious for what it has managed not to become. Text by Sudha Nair-Iliades and photographs by Defne Ă&#x2021;evik

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CITY LIFE

Vouliagmeni is practically built over the lake and its sage-scented hillsides make for one of the most unspoilt corners of Attica with 360 views to the sea.

each other in the watersport activities they offer, and a host of dining options from elemental taverna fare to pricey gourmet offerings, it is easily the most hankered after coastal address for Athenians and foreigners-in-the-know. But what marks it as the Athenian Riviera's prized jewel is its allure as an iconic luxury destination attracting the glamorous set and their large yachts at the Four Seasons Astir Palace and its storied marina. Every A-lister from Jackie O to President Obama have made a stop here. For Vouliagmeni locals, however, what will really change its stature – and their everyday quality of life – is the ambitious redevelopment plan that includes a significant upgrade of the mooring facilities at the Astir Marina, a total make-over of the Astir Beach waterfront and retail and dining options at Four Seasons Astir Palace. For its pocket-size, there are enough things to do in Vouliagmeni yearround. A good place to start is the cavernous Vouliagmeni Lake that lies etched into an immense limestone boulder. This geological marvel’s tepid springs keep the water at a swim-friendly 24 C. Its emerald brackish waters, reputedly blessed with therapeutic properties, has always been a draw. But urban legends about sinister waters, murky tunnels, lost divers and strange water creatures abound, adding to its mystique. The stunningly beautiful terrace that skirts the lake doubles up as a restaurant in the evenings – and is open throughout the summer until late September. The sandy stretches that hug the narrow isthmus linking Vouliagmeni to its harbour are not pebbly or gravelly like most Greek beaches, drawing Athenians here on a Sunday to swim, windsurf or sail - or simply to enjoy long lunches of local fish. If a languorous beach day is what you’re after, the Astir Beach’s

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yria Athina peels her potatoes with a vigour that defies her 70odd years at Louizidis taverna, favoured by Vouliagmeniotes as the go-to place for mageirefta and local gossip for the past 50 years. The lottery vendor, who goes by the single name of Kostas, asks regulars after their children and doles out some unproferred advice on how to treat a sunburn to a young tourist couple. Cats doze in the blazing afternoon sun. A whiff of lavender and the musky scent of oregano permeate the air. The staff here have remained unchanged, as has the menu. Vouliagmeni wears its reputation as the playground of the rich and discreet with a very grounded, down-to-earth, village-like conviviality. Despite its glam quotient, most residents know each other by name, face, or reputation. From an unassuming summering destination of well-heeled Athenians to being the most coveted piece of the Greek real estate pie, Vouliagmeni has, impossibly, managed to retain its savage beauty, still holding on to its cherished way of island-in-the-city living. With just over 5,000 permanent residents, all Vouliagmeni had by way of entertainment was a lone open-air cinema. There are no clubs, no museums, no shops selling anything other than food, save for two supermarkets and boutiques on Astir Beach selling swimwear and beach essentials. But what it lacks in shopping and nightlife, it more than compensates with its raw beauty and authenticity. Wallowing between a molten turquoise bay and a jagged mountain slope, this is where the white smudge of the urban sprawl of coastal Athens gives way to palm trees, umbrella pines, flowers and fountains. With a narrow, winding neck of land snaking around the bay and the open sea, its impeccably wellkept boulevards, long, sandy beaches, two nautical clubs that rival

CITY LIFE

curtained day-beds and waiter service to parasoled sunbeds should convince you. Dining options here range from the newly opened nice n easy’s organic and healthy-gourmet fare. The beach also boasts the ruins of the temple of Apollo Zoster. The myth goes that Leto, who had caught Zeus’ roving eye, was hounded by Hera across land and sea. She threw off her girdle here on her hasty journey to Delos to deliver Apollo, who lends his name to the shoreline that stretches from Vouliagmeni to Sounion. For the sporty, there's water-skiing, wake-boarding, paddling, windsurfing and even aqua-aerobics. Entrance to the beach may be pricey but then that’s the price you pay to people watch, flaunt your designer swimwear and earn morning-after bragging rights. Comparatively, Vouliagmeni Beach with a playground, tennis courts, a snack bar, watersport equipment, and a blue flag certification for cleanliness, is a great place to spend the day at a mere 5 euros on the weekend and 4 euros on weekdays. But it means jostling with the masses for towel space! If you’re loathe to pay to swim, the narrow strip of sand just across the high-frills Astir Beach and next to the Nautical club has the same enticingly clear water and free views along the bay. Early morning bathers here include senior aqua-gymming women in rosy swimsuits, fondly nicknamed pink flamingos by residents. Most swimmers tend

While in Athens, the sea is no more than a sparkle glimpsed between concrete in Vouliagmeni, it commands the eye, lolling in turquoise splendour in an expansive beach-rimmed bay.

to seek out the free beaches along Kavouri just past Margi Hotel or just jump off the jetty by Akti. Nudists and topless skinny-dippers tend to favour any of the several coves that hug the coast between Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. Teetering amid a series of rocky inlets is Limanakia, the preferred swimming destination for the hipster set and the gay community. There’s music, cold beer and no known closing hours - what’s not to like? Another little insider secret is the Winter Swimmers' Club where spry octogenarians and wiry retirees swim year round, furthering Vouliagmeni’s reputation as a spa town. The Nautical Club of Vouliagmeni (NOB), founded in 1937, and the highly subsidized and popular Vouliagmeni Residents’ Nautical Club (NOKB) offer summer camps and sporting activities throughout the year and indeed, this idyllic suburb prides itself as home to worldclass wind-surfing champions (including Nikolaos Kaklamanakis who won the Olympic gold medal in Atlanta and silver at the Athens Olympics) and European Championship-winning women's and men's water polo teams. Omilos at the NOB and En Plo at NOKB offer a terrific perch to watch young children bounce off water glides or navigate their little Optimists. The newly opened Blue Fish at NOKB with its stone walls, white tables and rustic décor sets the tone for an unhurried meal. This is the closest you can get to having a meal on the water and what’s more, the food here is a delightfully engaging play on textures and flavours. Perfect for pre-or post-swim meals or indeed, in between dips! Vouliagmeni is practically built over the lake and its open, sage-scented hillsides planted with wild olives, eucalyptus, pines and evergreen oaks make for one of the most picturesque and unspoilt corners of Attica with 360 views to the sea. A breathtakingly beautiful walking trail, it is a sanctuary for wildlife, and in spring, carpeted with wild irises, chamomile and poppies. Another favoured walking path is along the Kavouri promenade.

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Ithaki

Moorings © Christos Drazos

Blue Fish

For fine dining, Ithaki suspended on a cliff above Astir Beach is expensive but well worth the splurge for special occasions. Nobu’s Matsuhisa Athens at the Four Seasons Astir Palace Complex with its sublime, refined Japanese-Peruvian cuisine remains a destination of choice for its spectacular setting as for its legendary black cod in miso that must surely feature on every foodie’s bucket list. Moorings at the Astir Marina is a good pit stop for coffees, cocktails and gourmet meals with a side-order of yacht-envy. Work out your excesses by strolling along the harbour and taking in some serious eye-candy – no leaky fishing boats here, just million-dollar sleek yachts. Lutetia at the small but luxurious 11-room Somewhere Hotel offers a discreet getaway to tuck into a sumptuous meal. Candlelit farm-to-table dinners by the pool at Malabar in boutique hotel Margi’s jasmine-scented courtyard are ideal to amp up the romance. The latest addition to the Margi Hotel’s leisure offerings is Krabo, a beautiful secluded cove equipped with sundecks, cocktails and a sophisticated dining experience. For ouzo and mezes, Akti is a good option, especially for a post-swim meze though it’s a tad too over-priced for fish. Sardellaki, a new seafood arrival on the waterfront has established itself as a great value-formoney neo- taverna. Only glitch: they follow a strict no-reservations policy, so you cannot book ahead. The 130-year old Lambros, a steady point of reference in every sepia-tinted image of Vouliagmeni, still has a cachet for Athenians who head there to relive the nostalgia of Sunday family lunches. For daily meals, locals flock to the family-run

Louizidis on Vouliagmeni’s main square, which has fed generations with good, wholesome Greek staples for years. Zaxos which used to be souvlaki king for 25 years has now been dethroned by newcomers Takis for succulent skewered chicken and Ermina's for its filling organic, gyros wraps. It seems as if the strip that runs parallel to the main coastal road is a 24hour caffeine zone and most locals split time between the most popular cafes to catch up with newspapers and friends. Aquamarina is yet another Vouliagmeni ‘institution’ with its old-fashioned charms and retro green rexine chairs, reputed for its meringues and millefeuilles, popular with the older generation. Sloop is a laid-back hangout with good coffee, attentive service, an incredible view to the limpid Saronic bay and the crunchiest potato wedges! Rumors at the far-end is a fave ‘steki’ for young professionals who work in the neighborhood. Waffle House is a family pleaser and is packed to the gills any given time of the day, throughout the year. Lagoon, a new entrant with its upscale interiors and accessible gourmet options is ideal for more refined meals. The local bakery Artopolis doubles up as café Philip and serves light snacks and salads. A good way to end a lazy summer evening is at Akti, Vouliagmeni’s lone summer cinema that has survived realestate sharks and Netflix. Film screenings usually start at 9 pm, with a second screening at around 11pm – it is a very convivial affair as families troop in with children, dogs and snacks to watch re-runs under the stars. •

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All Day Cafe Bar Restaurant Blends at Nymfon Square, in Glygada, combining in its architecture the urban aesthetics with natural elements, the modern interior design with artworks, succeeds in creating a patchwork of unique experiences by “blending” senses.

19 Phoebis & Laodikis, 16674 Glyfada, Attica, Greece, T +30 211-1821711

A lovely place in a perfect location! Located in Marina Vouliagmenis, Moorings Café | Bar | Restaurant stands with its elegant and discreet style as the most popular meeting point of Southern suburbs. Fully renovated, is the ideal place to enjoy daily a coffee, meal, dinner or cocktail from early in the morning until late in the evening. Combining exceptionally the panoramic view of Vouliagmenis natural landscape and the glamorous environment of the yachts, Moorings offers its guests a feeling of both calmness and relaxation.

Marina Vouliagmeni, 16671 Vouliagmeni, T 2109670659, T 2108961310, info@moorings.gr, moorings.gr

ARTS & EVENTS

A haven for wellbeing A natural retreat, the Vouliagmeni Lake offers an authentic wellness experience like no other â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from therapeutic swims to heliotherapy, dinner under the stars and receptions on its manicured lawns â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in a setting that is simply awe-inspiring. A visit here is an odyssey: part holistic well-being, part natural beauty combined with exceptional resort service in a serene, spirit-elevating environment.

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ust a 25-minute drive from the city centre, in the heart of the Athens Riviera, Vouliagmeni Lake is a jaw-droppingly magnificent geological phenomenon and a unique natural spa. Included in Greece’s Natura 2000 network, its imposing craggy cliff-face that plunges into its placid, emerald-green waters is such a startlingly different landscape from Greece’s sand and sea association that one is immediately transported to a charming parallel universe.

A wellness destination

Fringed by the rugged slopes of the ‘Faskomilia’ hills, so named after the profusion of sage and thyme bushes that grow wild there, the lake’s brackish water runs 100 metres deep. Continuously replenished both by the sea and underground thermal springs, it offers a natural and unique thermal spa experience, drawing scores of visitors for its curative properties. The Garra Rufa fish – known as spa fish – are part of the lake’s unique ecosystem, and contribute to the natural spa experience. At a warm and inviting temperature that ranges between 22 and 29 Celsius year-round, its waters offer an alternative for reluctant swimmers to enjoy a swim 12 months a year. Apart from its reputation as a centre of healing, the lake now attracts snorkelling fans and lures its fair share of sun-worshippers. “From early-morning swims to late-afternoon cocktails, the lake offers something for all ages in an exceptional setting,”says Marianthi Vavoulaki, Managing Director, Vouliagmeni Lake. Cultural events draw attention to the unique acoustics of the place against its spectacular backdrop of illuminated rocks. The all-day café offers hot and cold beverages, light snacks, salads and ice-cream round-the-clock, making it a great setting to enjoy a healthy meal or get your daily caffeine fix. A beautiful teak deck that skirts the lake doubles as a dining area in the evenings, with the restaurant open throughout the summer until late September. The cuisine does justice to the natural beauty of its backdrop, relying on local produce for a wholesome gastronomic experience. The lush green lawns are usually booked ahead of time for wedding receptions and corporate parties after sunset, when the last of the bathers have left. “The quality and professionalism in organizing these high-profile events has earned the lake a loyal clientele and made it a much sought-after venue,”adds Vavoulaki. Exactly half-way between Athens and the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, it is a pleasantly different, natural, urban retreat and sand-free alternative to a regular beach. Vouliagmeni Lake is a unique, inclusive destination that has been equipped with disability ramps to make its curative waters accessible to everyone, and the free wi-fi lets you catch up on work or share your lake experience on social media. If you haven’t visited the lake yet, its time you succumbed to its charms. Put on a swimsuit, bring your snorkelling gear, and lounge on one of the sun-beds that fringe the lake as you prepare to plunge into its inviting depths. Tel: +30 210 896 2237, limnivouliagmenis.gr

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A meeting point

ARTS ART HISTORY & EVENTS

“Do you remember the pink oleander?” Art historian Els Hanappe draws inspiration from a poem by Kevin McGrath to trace the rise of an international artists’ community on Hydra in the mid-20th Century.

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ART HISTORY

Athens 1936. In the offices of the Athens School of Fine Arts in the Averoff building, recently appointed director Konstantinos Dimitriadis meets with artist Periklis Vyzantios to discuss the latterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s idea of opening up school branches across the country where students can stay at low cost and have access to studios and topical landscapes. Eyes are set on Delphi, Mykonos and Hydra; the acquisition of the Tombazis mansion, an imposing stone building on the right side of the port, is negotiated. Periklis Vyzantios becomes the director of both the Delphi and Hydra branches and from 1945, of Hydra only.

Ioannis Kardamatis and Peter Bendler working on their terrace.

Ghikas and Vyzantios promote the island to friends and visitors, urging them to buy the cheap houses before they disappear, to preserve the residential ambience of the island. Ghikas, who has fully restored his own mansion, receives in 1939 the acclaimed American author, Henry Miller, who will eternalize Hydra for his many readers in his memoir The Colossus of Maroussi. The succession of two World Wars has marked a whole generation who grew up with a feeling of constant threat, loss, pain, and disillusionment. It is a generation that longs for peace through mutual cultural understanding, freedom of movement and spiritual enlightenment. Young people from all over the Western world flock together to experiment with alternative lifestyles in defiance of their parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bourgeois stifled attitudes. They spread out over continents, not to colonize but to learn, taking an interest in different cultures and religions. Some search for a more authentic life, othathens insider | 97 |

ers escape conventions and expectations. The world is on the move. In Reims, Christian Heidsieck, eldest son having inherited the Charles Heidsieck Company, decides at age nineteen to leave the hometown seat of his family, and to forsake his place at the helm of the company for an unknown future and career in pottery making. He travels to France and Italy to train in the local techniques of faience and majolica. He arrives in Athens in 1948 where he takes up further training at the Kerameikos, Amarousi and Lavrio workshops and factories. He meets his future wife, Lily Mack, and the young couple opts for the simple, quiet life of Hydra where Christian, with the help of a local neighbour, builds a kiln. For the next few years the YDRA pottery produces unique pieces of heavy sculpted earthenware, hand-modelled, incised, and decorated in relief, all of which successfully sell locally. From the mid-Fifties, a new nucleus forms around the charming literary couple, George Johnston and Charmian Clift, who take up residence on the island. Artist Sidney Nolan visits his fellow Australian expats from London and rents part of the Ghikas house where he stays with his wife Cynthia. American artist Timothy Hennessy is a guest of Ghikas in 1957 and buys his own mansion on the island, which he later shares with his artist friend, Ioannis Kardamatis. Word and fame spread. Hydra forms the setting for popular Greek and international movies, celebrities mingle with the locals and Hydra is established as a hot spot. In 1949, Yiannis Latsis, future shipping tycoon, starts a regular boat service between

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ydra 1936. Crumbling stone mansions testify to the glorious seafaring past of this long, bare and rocky island, close to Athens and across from the mainland of the Peloponnese. Less popular than its Saronic sister islands, Aegina, Poros and Spetses, its dwindling population struggles to make ends meet and its men travel to the coasts of North Africa to scrape a living by diving for sponges. The main settlement of the island, eponymously called Hydra town, is interspersed by open spaces, gardens and ruins between the traditional white houses. In the picturesque bay-shaped harbour a few fishing boats are moored and donkeys, the only means of transport over land, bray out over the sea toward the horizon. Natural sources are sparse as is produce from the land: olives, honey, resin, eggs. Water supply is limited. Evenings are spent dancing and drinking at the few local tavernas where wine flows from the goatskins and barrels. Returning sponge divers and local fishermen are joined by the cadets from the National Merchant Marine Academy that started operating in 1749. Life is uncomplicated, poor and quiet, with few people living side-by-side with nature. That same year, artist Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas arrives on Hydra, full of childhood memories of summers spent at his maternal home in the small neighbouring fishing village of Kamini. Captivated by the familiar sounds and smells, by a world of senses, he restores the large mansion, the former seat of the shipping family, whose days go back to the early 16th century. Only during the 17th century does the population slowly move down toward the seashore to make a first modest attempt at ship building, which allows it to trade with other cities and countries. The enterprise flourishes thanks to the progressive economic system of cost-and-risk sharing. The Hydra fleet becomes so powerful that it plays a major role in the War of Independence from Ottoman rule in 1821.

ART HISTORY

Ioannis Kardamatis at home in Hydra

Photos of Brenda Chamberlain, Courtesy of the American School of Classical Studies, Athens, Gennadius Library Archives, Rovertos Saragas Papers.

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ART HISTORY

Austere stone mansions hide impressive interiors with attention to luxurious details, beautifully laid stone floors, finely latticed wooden ceilings, metalwork, wooden doors and staircases. The furniture is from France and Italy and this mix of sheer force with elegance, softened by the use of embroidered fabrics, is typical of the Hydriot style.

Arrangement for contemplation | XX | lithograph

Days are filled with early-morning and late -afternoon swims, socializing around the port, working at home, and meeting with friends for a meal. Life is pleasant and languid with few modern amenities. Pavlos Pantelakis, who, in 1963, succeeded Periklis Vyzantios as director of the School of Fine Arts, is even more passionate about the preservation of the island and can be regularly seen with binoculars watching hawk-eyed any alterations, constructions or extensions. The locals are friendly and tolerant but the differences in educational and cultural background, the language barriers, the adherence to a traditional, religious lifestyle with little or no interest in art, strengthen the distance between the two social groups. The wealthy Athenians, who are increasingly interested in investing in the island, are equally conservative and set in their bourgeois ways, and disapprove of the bohemian mindset of the foreign community. Occasionally groups mingle, at the local tavernas, sharing a coffee, ouzo or a game of backgammon in the port, tending to the ever-growing yachts moored at the dock, skippering, attending parties or dancing together at the sophisticated Lagoudera night club. Brenda Chamberlain, Welsh writer and artist, who spent a few years on Bardsey Island off the coast of Britain, where the weather lashes out and the tiny population is withdrawn and suspicious, discovers Hydra in the early Sixties and moves there until the arrival of the Junta. Disapproving of the glamorous life around the port, she withdraws high up on the hill and athens insider | 99 |

occasionally to one of the monasteries where she observes local life, whilst uttering sharp criticism of the habits and ambitions of her fellow international residents. Equally sharp in observation is the Greek novelist, Margarita Karapanou, who is sensitive to the underlying tension on the island. Both women talk about an undercurrent of violence, describe a murder, blame the oppressive heat, the desire and impossibility to escape and the pretence of posing as artists. Rumours are heard about excessive drinking, drug use and promiscuous behaviour among the foreign community, putting at risk those with families, but also about self-discipline, routine and hard work. As Hydra progresses, so does the rest of the world and the island is far from isolated. Regular contact with the mainland, international travel and contact with visitors from abroad ensure full awareness of political, economic and cultural developments. The counterculture that has its roots in the Fifties with the beat poets – many of whom visited Hydra, including Allan Ginsberg, Gregory Corso and Harry Norse – gives way to the Summer of Love in 1967 and the hippie movement. The Cold War reigns and democracy is on the defensive, having to constantly define itself in between totalitarian regimes both left and right and social liberation movements. Life on the island is sweet and artists are less inclined to large gestures. The intricate patterns of the main town are grappled through linear sometimes cubist drawings that trace the forms of the houses.

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the Argosaronic Gulf and the mainland with his famed Neraida; international travel becomes faster and more frequent, commercial aviation takes off and more effective infrastructure is continuously being developed. By the end of the Fifties, life on Hydra remains cheap and continues to attract young artists. Demetri Gassoumis arrives from San Francisco, as do Harry Jacobson and Sturges Mower, Norris Embry arrives from Chicago via Italy, Norman Peterson, Jane Motley, Sam Fischer, Brice and Helen Marden, Stephen Mueller visit from the United States, Marios Loizidis – Cypriot national – crosses over from Rafina, Brenda Chamberlain moves from her isolated Welsh island to the Greek island, Robert Owen and William Pownall travel from Australia, Anthony Kingsmill from Great Britain, Marcella Maltais from Canada, as do many others from different parts of the world including France, Norway and Germany. Americans and French follow in the wake of Henry Miller, Canadians of Leonard Cohen, Australians of Johnston and Clift. What starts as a European tour often ends in permanent stay. Income is hard to come by and regular travel to European city centres is a must to trade one’s wares, to publish a book, hang a show, promote a song, execute a commission, organize a performance, or take up a teaching assignment. Every day, foreign residents and locals alike look out for the boat to arrive; the foreigners expecting pending payments for their creative output, the locals to get paid – through those payments – for long outstanding bills. Residents keep to themselves and enjoy large outdoor terraces that look out over the sea.

ART HISTORY

The celebrated Mediterranean light, so intense on Hydra, leads artists to bring out all contours and outlines, colours and patterns, stimulating a realistic style, a stylized approach or a technique of assembled flat surfaces. Others watch the light dissolve every shape into patches without definable edges or into fields of monochrome colour. Patterns appear in the zigzagged wall that runs down the western edge of town or in the twisting movements of the hydrangea. Decorative patterns are sourced from further afield, historically, geographically and psychologically, from Byzantine and Eastern culture, philosophy and religion, and psychedelic experiences. John Craxton strings the flattened picture planes from a Byzantine aesthetic together as in mosaic art; Timothy Hennessy and Ioannis Kardamatis, inspired by the classic heritage as carried over by Byzantine art into the Renaissance, create a splendid interior like a Gesamtskunstwerk, with ornamental textiles, taints of gold and iconic figures; Brice Marden’s interlaced bands of colour, executed with a technique influenced by Chinese calligraphy; Jane Motley embroiders every morning a small mandala, a ritual symbol that originates in the Hindu and Buddhist practices of meditation. There is the global and there is the local. Norris Embry looks around him in the taverna and the kafeneion to the painted ceramics on the walls or on the tables translating the imagery with expressionist strokes into mixed media works that combine mask-like faces, words and other elements into a footprint of the artist’s life. Scrabbling into notebooks, he observes life and restlessly fills page after page with carnivalesque, sometimes nightmarish drawings and anecdotal single objects like a coffee cup. There is the inside and there is the outside. Community members gather around the tables in the harbour or the backstreet tavernas to fraternize but work needs to be done at home or in the serenity of their studio where silence prevails. Demetri Gassoumis owns a spacious, professionally equipped studio with a large window for light that allows him to cre-

Untitled | 1972 Collage19Χ26

Paparouna project 17 no. 3 | 1983 | Acrylic 116X158

ate large-scale works such as folding screens, stencils for wall paintings, theatre sets and interior fixtures. French artist Guy Allain, on the contrary, merges living space and studio into one multifunctional cluttered space housed in an old stable. Adam Shapiro, who buys a small house high up on the hill, prefers to work outside, repeatedly painting the same valley in view, situated on the road from Kamini to Vlychos. Most impressions of living and working arrangements come through old photographs but Angelika Freitag records the more intimate details in her India-inspired miniature etchings and watercolours. Works are scattered in private homes and many of the original residents have passed athens insider | 100 |

away. An exhibition and catalogue therefore are long overdue to hold on to that momentum when the small Greek island of Hydra was a bohemian paradise. In the meantime, a new generation has taken root: Tom Powell, Panagiotis Rappas, Alexis Veroucas, Jill Appert and many others, and new international artistic projects have been initiated such as DESTE’s Slaughterhouse and Hydra School Projects, proving the lasting charm of Hydra as an artistic magnet. And although tourism has changed the community, during the winter one can still find many a day when serenity reigns, the streets are empty, nature is at rest, and the air breathes mysticism and expectation.

ARTS &ISLAND EVENTS LIFE

Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rare Skyrian horses The Skyrian horse is one of the oldest breeds in Europe, believed to have pulled Achilles' legendary chariot in Troy, accompanied Alexander the Great in his conquests, and depicted in the friezes on the Parthenon. But with only about 200 of these historic miniature horses left, the breed is at great risk of extinction. Photo essay by Christos Drazos

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ne of the rarest horse breeds in the world, the Skyrian horse is native to Greece, only found in the wild on Skyros and in a few breeding and welfare farms on the island. The Equus caballus Skyriano stands at a diminutive 0.9 to 1.15m, with a long, thick mane, and is a calm, intelligent, animal. With just 200 Skyrian horses left, it is a Greek tragedy that can be averted by supporting the efforts of a handful of individuals and organisations who have worked hard to protect, breed, support and conserve Skyrian horses. The Skyros Island Horse Trust, based on Skyros, has been running a highly successful breeding, conservation, education and welfare project for these horses. You can help save the Skyrian horse by contacting Amanda Simpson and Stathis Katsarelias at skyrosislandhorsetrust.com athens insider | 103 |

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ISLAND LIFE

ARTS & EVENTS

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ISLAND LIFE

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With just 200 Skyrian horses left, it is a Greek tragedy that can be averted by supporting the efforts of a handful of individuals and organisations who have worked hard to protect, breed, support and conserve Skyrian horses.

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CULTURE

Marble arts Petros Marmarinosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; evocatively simple compositions captivate with their finesse and sculptural sensibility. At his workshop near the ancient quarries of Tinos, he experiments with modern, classic and unexpected creations.

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CULTURE

very artist is drawn to a medium that is a conduit for his creativity; for Petros Marmarinos, painting would have been his first choice. But he grew up on Tinos, surrounded by millenniaold marble quarries and a long history of artisans replicating iconic ancient Greek sculptures, the sound of the chisel chipping away at unforgiving marble and the sight of his father and grandfather covered in fine marble dust. Marmarinos had to succumb to a calling more powerful than himself. But in doing so, he brings his own unorthodox approach to marble-sculpting, fashioning creations that reflect the Cycladic vernacular with flashes of modernity. He speaks to Christiana Darmi on his approach to marble craftsmanship from his workshop on Tinos.

You think of Greek marble and ancient statues spring to mind. Your marble creations marry contemporary, minimalist elements with traditional marble-sculpting techniques to create objects that score high points both in aesthetics and functionality. How difficult was it to break away from the conventional expectations of your craft? To literally break away from the mould. Initially, of course youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re moulded to follow a specific line. But then it is the daily friction with the object that unfolds your inclinations and shapes your personal style. I firmly believe that you cannot create without being influenced by your everyday reality or adapt your creations accordingly. If you live in the present, your creations should mirror the present, but always through the prism of past knowledge. You observe

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Marmarinos brings his own unorthodox approach to marble-sculpting, fashioning creations that reflect the Cycladic vernacular with flashes of modernity.

CULTURE

the past and learn from it. You observe the evolutionary path from the past to the present and finally you capture it with your own perception. It's definitely hard to get away from the classic mould and it's something you learn to hold on to well, but you want to delve deeper. There is a constant search in art. A search that is unsatisfied. You never stop producing art, which for an artist means as long as he lives. You come from Tinos, which has a long tradition in marble-sculpting, and your workshop is located just behind that of the legendary sculptor Halepas, arguably Greece’s most well-known marble craftsman after Phidias who chiselled the columns of the Parthenon. How influential have Tinos and Halepas been in your choice of vocation? My place of origin obviously influenced my course to a great extent. I grew up in a village with a long tradition of marble sculpture and fine arts in general. It is no accident that Tinos had its own School of Fine Arts. First of all, I think my artistic grasp is basically hereditary. My family’s artistic tradition fuelled my artistic inclination. And, of course, the fact that Tinos is a place where, apart from the art and apprenticeship of marble sculpture, you encounter the pure matter of marble. It is a place full of quarries, which is one with the Tinian landscape and something that I consider natural. The daily contact with the environment of the island, and in particular, with that of Pyrgos, from where I come from, which in itself is a large open living museum, educates and informs your aesthetics and affects you subconsciously. It is no coincidence that a great number of great artists come from this island. So you understand that you need to continue this living history. And since the marble-sculpting techniques of Tinos have been registered under UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, as a craftsman, you have the responsibility of safeguarding this important tradition. And you endeavour to give the best of yourself to be worthy of this great challenge. Your objects have the simple elegance and design vernacular of the Cycladic islands. Your pigeons, inspired by Tinos’ dovecotes, your raki glasses, athens insider | 108 |

CULTURE

For me it is very important that you manage to capture the idea of a usable object with your aesthetics and the result is exactly what your imagination expected. And, of course, the public's response is enormous satisfaction for me. Emotional earnings are much higher than financial gains. When you see that people appreciate and cheer your work, it is something indescribable. And something that creates a bridge to communicate with the world. This acceptance makes you go further to offer more and more creations. It is a source of inspiration. athens insider | 109 |

Petros Marmarinos’ workshop Pyrgos, 84 201 Tel. Workshop: 22830 31624 Tel. Exhibition: 22830 31524 M: 6972 034 686 E: info@marmarinos.gr

Tinos’s Museum of Marble Crafts To appreciate Tinos’ rich marble-crafting heritage, visit the Museum of Marble Crafts. The museum, under the auspices of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation, houses an impressive collection of authentic artefacts and everyday objects made of marble.

INFO Open every day except Tuesdays. • Pyrgos, Panormos Tinou 842 01. Tel: 22830 31290

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as indeed all your creations, are not just quintessentially Greek, but also highly utilitarian objects. Do you believe that for art to thrive it should have value beyond its aesthetic appeal? And that we should incorporate art and beauty into our daily lives, with the most mundane of objects being a joy to behold, an extension of one’s personality? Giving practical application to your works is very important. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to produce pure artworks without any useful value or application. This does not necessarily mean that the artistic substance of objects is neutralized, you simply have to create small objects, with high aesthetics and a lot of work (because of the detail) as it is very difficult to promote pure artworks or sculpture. So I think it's a combination of art and usability that characterizes today’s sensibilities, because we live in a time when our aesthetics in all things plays a huge role. But this combination is really good.

DESIGN

Making room for humour Miltos Kontogiannis’ designs infuse life, laughter and light into spaces with playful, industrial design.

iltos Kontogiannis’ sparse office evokes desk-clutter envy. A light-box banana injects a pop of colour; the amplified fruit cushions, a dash of the unexpected. ‘A place made for fun’ shouts one of the walls and that is the underlying ethos at Studiomateriality. As with all of Kontogiannis’ projects, his studio has an airy lightness to it, a smile-inducing touch, a bit of whimsy. What makes his work so joyous is the interplay of brilliant design and cheeky scripts. He lets the laughter in.

“Designers tend to take themselves too seriously,” he declares. “We like being playful. We approach each of our projects with the intention of having fun.” Lighthearted as he sounds, his background shows a sterner application to his craft: he graduated in interior architecture and product design from the Technical Institute in Athens. The Studiomateriality product range includes mirrors, light fixtures, homeware and accessories.

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Morning Cheer Does it make you feel special? That is definitely the vibe Studiomateriality was going for at this funky bakery, patisserie and coffee shop. Bespoke light-boxes, playful wall art featuring happy faces and kitchen equipment elevate the space into a contemporary and arty environment. Pink details on a wooden floor and a strong colour palette on the wall add a fun and edgy element to create a welcoming venue. Studiomateriality's approach was not only about spatial design. Practical and stylish staff uniforms, branded coffee cups and other supplies all reveal design with a sense of humour. “We wanted to create a joint morning experience for the customer, so that he would start the day in the most joyful way,” explains Kontogiannis. “We had to consider and combine the morning in-store traffic of a bakery with the openness of a coffee-shop and the elegance of a patisserie."

Space Odyssey A new series of beach towels, starring an iconic illustrated spaceman who is ready to explore new destinations, new life and new experiences. These lightweight and highly-absorbent towels come in many vibrant colours and are 100% manufactured in Athens.

When sinning is a sport Again playing on the biblical follies of Adam and Eve, Studiomateriality collaborates with Adidas to create a unique space within the nightclub studio 24 in Gazi, and to produce a series of thoughtfully-designed streetwear, furniture, homeware and accessories targeting young Athenians.

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DESIGN

Fashion IQ With playful configurations, modern finishes with neon lights, pop-art furnishings and retro-funky twists, the Hallelujah store on Apollonos Street (its second in Athens) stocks Greek designer clothing, accessories and unique Greek souvenirs that inject happy and light-weighted aesthetics into this recently regentrified street.

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DESIGN

Official need'nt be boring and stiff Pink pop floors between banana trees morph the headquarters of this start-up into a joyous space. The interior of the office features a palette of materials and colours chosen to evoke positive feelings. Vibrant artwork on the wall, and an office mascot in the form of a pug, suffuse the space with touches of humour.

Athens has its own contemporary style, but she is also fortunate to have such a rich cultural legacy. If Athens were a cocktail, she'd be a negroni: bitter-sweet and classy!

Caffeine Frenzy

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A story of a man, a woman, a fruit, a serpent and eternal exile from the garden of Eden. The Adam and Eve scarves revisit the original sin with a dollop of playfulness and a touch of the whimsical. The scarves are made using premium silk from Soufli, with handsewn edges.

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Lazarou transports his diners to a world of beauty and indulgence, to capture their imagination in a different way by unravelling the mysteries of flavour

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CHEF PROFILE

A destiny tied to the sea and the senses Acknowledged as the authority on contemporary seafood cuisine in Greece, Lefteris Lazarou’s open-minded and informal approach to fine dining has made his restaurant Varoulko a place of gastronomic pilgrimage.

Varoulko Seaside, Akti Koumoundourou 52, Mikrolimano, Piraeus. Tel: +30. 210. 522.8400 athens insider | 115 |

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“F

ood should viscerally, instinctively, spiritually, transform you. It should, and has the power to, inspire, astonish, shock, excite, delight and impress.” Anthony Bourdain, whose unfiltered opinions on food we’ve venerated, couldn’t have been more compelling in promoting the multi-sensory experience good food can evoke. Those lucky enough to have experienced a meal at Varoulko can testify to the memories, smells and imagery they’ve associated with each mouthful. As a restaurateur for over 30 years, Lefteris Lazarou has consistently argued that eating is one of the few activities that involves all of the senses simultaneously. Since launching Varoulko in 1987, Lazarou has tried to do just that – transport his diners to a world of beauty and indulgence, to capture their imagination in a different way by unravelling the mysteries of flavour perception and multi-sensory delight. While the dishes at Varoulko are visually brilliant, technically flawless and a joy to eat, Lazarou has little time for the frills and fussiness of fine dining. The style at Varoulko is relaxed. Its location on the waterfront at Mikrolimano, the sight of fishing boats trickling into the harbour, the music of swaying sail-masts and the scent of sea-spray are already a play on your senses, even before the first dish arrives. Lazarou plays down any formality one might associate with a Michelin-starred chef of nearly two decades, sharing a hearty laugh with regulars, pausing to say hello to first-timers. The staff are as engaging as they are expert. But that lack of primness doesn’t apply to the food, which is cooked to regimented perfection. As a person, Lazarou is humble to a fault. Curious, inventive and hardworking, he still wakes up at 4am to get the choicest fish, the freshest produce. His influence, beyond his transformative cuisine, shows in the legion of young Greek chefs who trained with him. Most of the talented chefs cresting Greece’s quiet food revolution have trained in his kitchen, and learnt to elevate Greek cooking even before it became a thing. Varoulko remains a destination for those willing to challenge not only their taste buds but all their senses, with flavours and textures that never fail to excite.

COCKTAILS

Cocktail crawl in the capital Athens adds more fizz to its buzzing nightlife with a host of cocktail bars, some ranked amongst the top 10 in the world. Aghia Eirini Square and Praxitelous Street in the regenerated historic centre are home to Athens’ trendiest bars that know no closing hours. Swallow your ouzo-retsina fixation and get seduced by unique concoctions plied by award-winning bartenders.

Odori The talented team behind The Clumsies venture into what can only be described as a cross between a herbarium and a distillery. A stylish all-day bar centered around vermouth, the inventive drinks list is complemented by a food menu that doesn’t disappoint. Indeed, the brunches here are so good that you don’t need to stir too far to nurse your morning-after excesses! 2 Skouleniou Street, Tel. 210 .331.4674 athens insider | 116 |

COCKTAILS

Gin Joint Quench your passion for all things gin at Gin Joint where, as the name suggests, boozy botanicals take centre stage. With over 100 labels to choose from, this award-winning bar also serves up an eclectic choice of classic drinks and popular cocktails. 1 Christou Lada, Tel. 210. 321.8646

Baba au Rum If you like rum-based drinks, this is your natural habitat. Baba Au Rum, placed among the 50 best bars in the world, is the go-to place for daiquiris and rum-based negronis blended with hand-selected spirits, home-made syrups and bitters. Thanos Prunarus, who runs the show here, also organises the Athens Rum and Whiskey Festival each year.

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6 Klitiou Street, Tel. 211.710.9140

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COCKTAILS

The Clumsies The bartender duo Nikos and Vassilis have gained almost rockstar status among the cocktail-crawling circuit. With good reason: The Clumsies ranked 7th on the top 10 list of the world’s best bars in 2018. This cool and sophisticated all-day bar morphs from sun-drenched space by day to atmospheric bar by night, serving equally delightful culinary creations to accompany their singular concoctions. If you’re with a group, book The Room – a cosy space with a fireplace, books, a pool table and even vinyls. 30 Praxitelous Street, Tel. 210.323.2682

Noel Over-the top decor, gilded garlands and festive paraphernalia – here, every day is Christmas and an excuse to raise a toast! Noel is a mainstay on the Athenian bar scene, and complements its upbeat atmosphere with exquisite drinks and an innovative food menu. 59B Kolokotroni Street, Tel. 211.215.9534 athens insider | 118 |

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COCKTAILS

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Eat, drink and be merry Elena Panayides rounds up some of the city’s hottest restaurants that tick off all the right boxes: good food, good wine, good vibes, guaranteed good times!

Cherchez la Femme Don’t let the French name fool you. Across from the imposing Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, a delightful Greek bistro transports you to more elegant times. Cherchez la Femme’s retro stylish decor and music provide the backdrop for traditional Greek meze dishes, elevated with a modern twist by chef Andreas Layos. Try the traditional loukoumi from Syros and the tasty fried potatoes from Naxos dripping with cheese. A curated Greek wine, tsipouro and ouzo list seal the deal on delectable dining. Mitropoleos 46, Athens Tel: +30 210.322.2020 athens insider | 120 |

RESTAURANT

In the spectacular Onassis Cultural Centre, the Michelin-starred Hytra is the spot for gastronomic Greek delights. In the summer, dine al fresco on the 7th floor, for show-stopping views of an illuminated Athens. Executive Chef Tassos Mantis has created a fine dining and bistro menu that ingeniously serves up haute cuisine infused with Greek flavours. All-time classics like ‘spanakorizo’ (spinach with rice) are deconstructed with artistic flair. If you’re feeling bold (and have taken a taxi!) opt for the wine pairing degustation menu. Syngrou 107, Athens Tel: +30 210.331.6767 athens insider | 121 |

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Hytra

RESTAURANT

Zurbaran An all-day and night cafe, bar and restaurant serving global cuisine in a modern, sleek and sexy interior design. Stylish Athenians gravitate to this downtown Kolonaki hotspot, known for its potent and creative cocktails. After 9pm a host of top DJs raise the tempo. From the Japanese and European menu standouts are the Crab Tartare with yuzu sauce, the Classic Schnitzel with roast rosemary potatoes (enough food for two), and the Duck Confit cooked for 16 hours. Patriarchou Ioakim 38, Athens Tel: +30 210.723.8334 athens insider | 122 |

RESTAURANT

Coyoacan Named after Frida Kahlo’s birthplace, Coyoacan is recreated in Thisseio. Escape to this impressive Mexican hacienda, with its unique and imposing Frida murals, neon skulls and retractable roof. The highly Instagrammable spot offers authentic Mexican dishes, such as mixto ceviche, washed down with innovative cocktails. Their ‘Mexican Ritual’ blends Don Julio anejo with Zacapa 23, apricot brandy, pink grapefruit cordial, passion fruit, chilli honey and mustard chutney. Under the watchful gaze of the Frida, the Wednesday ‘Nomadic Nights’ and Sunday ‘Gypsy Soul’ feature live performers and fantastic Mykonos DJs spinning the best house music. Iraklidon 10, Athens Tel: +30 210.345.7102

Almost as old as the Parthenon (established in 1939), the historic glamour and charm of Zonars has been restored and elevated to make it the ultimate downtown Athens spot. Chef Nikos Skliras offers delicious dishes from brunchtime to bedtime, while Anna Santasetto showcases her expertise on the sushi menu. To end your meal on a sweet high, legendary

Greek patisserie delivers on its tradition with diet-busting throwback desserts, like ice-cream sundaes. The rooms inspires with its high-end design elements and the beautiful crowd of celebrities, fashionistas, Athenians and visitors it always attracts. Voukourestiou 9, Tel: +30 210.325.1430

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Zonars

TASTE

Some like it hot! Looking for a world-class bowl of pho or Pad Thai? With Athens’ giddy food revolution in overdrive, we sample the most eligible Asian outposts to sate your cravings for sunnier, spicier cooking.

Madame Phu Man Chu A Vietnamese restaurant that manages to capture the magic of its rather original name, serving up a small but intriguing selection of wine-friendly snacks and small plates in a convivial space that attracts countless neighbourhood regulars and tourists, since its opening this February. Chef Vu Dinh Hung (who sports a hollowed-out pomelo as a hat) with restaurateurs Luc Lejeune and Constantinos Zouganellis have taken up residence in a charming dwelling on Praxitelous Street in downtown Athens. Lovers of top-notch Vietnamese cuisine will find much to delight their palate on a menu which champions fulsome flavours from southeast Asia through a repertoire of succulent beef skewers, mussels, crispy spring rolls and pan-fried fish. Try to snare a table by arriving early as the restaurant has limited capacity, but its owners hope to expand to 40 seats by spring. Skouleniou 4 and Praxitelous Tel: 210.323.1366

Sushi mou When French magazine Le Chef declared Antonis Drakoularakos among the top 100 most talented chefs in the world, his restaurant Sushimou received international recognition. Humble to a fault, Drakoularakos worked his way up from a line chef to enrolling himself into a cooking course in Tokyo to hone his skills, an experience he describes as ‘transformative and life-affirming’, before opening Sushimou four years ago. The chef serves extraordinarily sublime and affordable sushi in seemingly endless courses that bounce joyfully between traditional preparations and funkier combinations. With five seatings, from 6.30pm to 10.30 pm, Sushi mou is packed to the gills, so book way ahead. Skoufou 6, Tel: 211.407.8457

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TASTE

Pat Pong The busy, well-lit restaurant has an aura of happy chaos, with a menu that doesn’t shy away from heat and funk. Road-test another of Kolonaki’s latest culinary additions those already familiar with Thai flavours will be delighted to find them here, while newbies will quickly learn what they’ve been missing. Pat Pong, located on the premises that formerly housed Nikkei, delivers on authenticity and top-notch service. Try the khao soi, the tom yum noodle soup, and the ba mee moo dang and they won’t disappoint. Leventi 3, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8283

For a chicken tikka masala escape, smothered in ginger-garlic sauce, head to the big, brave and buzzy Indian Chef restaurant on Syngrou Avenue. Standouts on a menu full of scene stealers are the tender tandoori lamb fillet with mint chilli korma, a bold and buttery dal makhani, a creamy spinach paneer with just the right sprinkle of edginess, and the melt-in-the-mouth goodness of marinated chicken tikka. Ginni and her cooking crew redefine simple but beautiful dishes and smartly combine space with taste to create a warm environment with some sumptuous fare, not to mention great service and wine to match. An amalgam of evocative Indian touches with boho chic, Indian Chef is a swanky and welcome expansion of Athens’ vibrant foodie scene. Syngrou Avenue 55, Tel: 210.923.6336

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Indian Chef

athens map

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NEW HOTEL

ADAMS HOTEL

TRAM

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METRO ATHENS GATE HOTEL

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Tel: 210.364.0215 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679

see & do

Kapopoulos Fine Arts Varis - Koropiou Av. 94, Koropi Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.364.0288

GALLERIES Artion Argyropoulou 1 & Levidi Dimitriou 16, Kifisia Tel: 211.210.6455 Voukourestiou 21 Tel: 212.104.4166 Four Seasons Lobby Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 6944.477.383 A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549

The George Economou Collection Art Gallery - Marousi Grammou 77, Agii Anargyroi, Marousi Tel: 210.809.0519 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278, Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier - Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Citronne Gallery Athens Patriarchou Ioakim 19, Tel :219.723. 5226 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a, Tel: 210.360.7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis, Tel: 210.8619.488 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens,

The Blender Gallery Zisimopoulou 4, Glyfada Tel: 213.028.0597

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Syngrou 364, Kallithea Tel: 216.809.1000 The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757

CULTURAL INSTITUTES French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 British Council Kolonaki Square 17, 106 73 Athens, Tel: 210.369.2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47, Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646

THEATRES

CULTURAL VENUES

Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211.101.0020

Athinais Cultural Centre Astorias 34-36, Votanikos, Tel: 210.348.0000.

Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4

B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens, Tel: 210.361.1206

Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st., Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466

MUSEUMS

Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali, Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000

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Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185 Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens, Tel: 210.923.1502 spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 history-museum.uoa.gr

Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 & Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857

Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr

JUST FOR KIDS

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street, Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros, Tel: 212.254.0000 hellenic-cosmos.gr

Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

Benaki Toy Museum Poseidonos 14, P. Faliro, Tel: 212.687.5280, benaki.gr

Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995, hcm.gr Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows! Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031

DEPT. STORES Attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr

Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food

Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka,Tel: 210.322.5582 jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens, Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr

Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux

Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621, childrensartmuseum.gr

Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens, Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone

Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Marathianakis Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion McArthurGlen Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Nikos Koulis Filikis Eterias 15, Kolonaki Square, Athens Tel: +30.210.723.3783 Contemporary designer jewellery Odysseus Jewels Voukourestiou 20, Athens Tel: +30. 211.220.4500 Wide range of jewellery and watches Omega Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces

JEWELLERY

The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis, Tel: 210.924.1043 theacropolismuseum.gr

Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young

The National Art Gallery and

Bulgari

Pentheroudakis Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design Van Cleef & Arpels Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319

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The jeweller of the international jetset Venetia Vildiridis Voukourestiou 11 and El. Venizelou 8, Tel: +30.210.363.5145, +30 210.321.9408 FAX: +30 210.360.2896 Kassaveti 19, Kifissia Tel: +30. 210. 623. 6617 Original designer jewellery pieces and watches Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso

SOUVENIRS

Anamnesia Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Andrianou 99, Plaka Tel: 214.687.0704 Matogianni, Myconos, Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr Acropolis Museum Shop 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911 Benaki Museum Shop Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, Four Seasons Lobby, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000 www.benakishop.gr Forget me not Adriannou 100, Plaka Tel: 210.325.3740 www.forgetmenotathens.gr Greece is for Lovers Valtetsiou 50 - 52, Kolonaki Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Kori Mitropoleos 13, Monastiraki Tel: 210.323.3534 Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3 www.cycladic.gr It's all, oh so souvenir to me! Concierge Athens, Ay.Theklas 8, Psirri, Tel: 213.036.9266 www.ohsosouvenir.com

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Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens, Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr

useful info

EMBASSIES ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4, Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721 BANGLADESH Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko, Tel: 210.672.0250 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri, Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens, Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,

Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436 IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri, Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4161 KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou, Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens Tel. 210.729.4483

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LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2, Syntagma, Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei, Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei, Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychico, Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou, Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.1980

EMERGENCIES EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Ipirou 1, Athens. Duty Pharmacies Tel:1434 Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777

Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000 ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158 HEALTH PAEDIATRIC HOSPITALS EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535 PRIVATE HOSPITALS CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000, centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365 YGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro, Tel: 210.989.2100-20 Distomou 5-7, Maroussi, Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro, Tel: 210.480.9000 metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi, Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.9000

PUBLIC HOSPITALS ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula, Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit. TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9 ENGLISH MEDIA NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES Athens Insider, the quarterly magazine for Greece in English The International New York Times carries the English version of Kathimerini RADIO Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610 SCHOOLS GREEK LANGUAGE The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636 Tel: 210.701.5242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Tel: 210.330.1455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706 SITES Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Byzantine Churches. many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox

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church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the birthplace of democracy. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-theguard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in 500 BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight winds, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.

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SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokratias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi, Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2, Tel: .210.677.0220 UK Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 USA Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50,Psychico, Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080

KALEIDOSCOPE

Technicolour dreams Romance, action, drama, comedy, suspense and even bone-chilling horror â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the 20th edition of the French Film Festival promises all this and more. Now established as an important date in the cultural agenda of the city, the French Film Festival, as every spring, brings the best of French cinema to Athens from April 2 to April 10 and Thessaloniki from April 11 to April 17. ifa.gr

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L’ H E U R E D U D I A M A N T C O L L E C T I O N

CHOPARD BOUTIQUES Athens · Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel · Mykonos · Santorini For info: +30 (210) 32 50 555