Athens Insider Spring 2018 no 138 issuu by Insider Publications

the city magazine of

May June 2018 #138 ISSN 1790-3114 EUR 4,50

Eat Play Love Arts & Events •People • Culture • Business • Travel • Style • Food & Drink

MODER N GREEK cu ISINE OV ER lOOK I NG tHE FaM ED acROPOl IS Located on the 7th floor of the King George, Tudor Hall Restaurant features a unique neo-classical décor, unrivaled views of the Acropolis and Modern Greek Cuisine.

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publisher’s note A

n Athenian sight that always fills me with profound beauty and optimism is that of jacaranda trees in full bloom and pavements carpeted in purple. This year, that optimism is doubly justified as after a decade of second-guessing, Greece is fashionably back. It seems a little like the Wild West right now. There’s a sort of free and pioneering spirit blowing. That freedom is heady, and a form of power. We will perhaps look back at this decade as one of the most culturally prolific times in the city’s history. The creative process has always been at its most compelling when it is in opposition to something, when its not merely an intellectual exercise, but a defence of that very right to expression. From spray-canned facades where nightly, young artists such as Sonke vie for recognition, credibility and space on the city’s walls to fashion designers like Angelos Bratis, these are the drivers who articulate and anticipate trends transforming streets into galleries and runways into public platforms.

Athens Insider is published quarterly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by: Insider Publications Ltd. located at Ermou 13 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece Tel.: 210.729.8634 VAT: 099747145 E-mail: info@insider-magazine.gr

These new values and aesthetic vernacular have found resonance with the millions of tourists who want to experience Athens at its chaotic, edgy, authentic best. This issue celebrates that joyful renegade spirit that made tough circumstances bearable, and maybe even its challenges surmountable through human ingenuity.

Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers.

It salutes the fierce, collective ambition and creative energy that not only contributes to the city’s beating heart, but one that has injected it with creative independence, moral integrity, a strong sense of community and social responsibility.

Athens Insider ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 216548

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athens insider

The promise of Athens is alive and well. •

Sudha Nair-Iliades

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Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Editor Amanda Dardanis Client Relations Krysta Foteinopoulou Graphic Design Ioanna Milopoulou Cover design Daniel Egnéus Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Social Media Caroline Pateras Events Co-ordinator Anita Robert Interns Nicole Sadek, Will Feuer, Leo Nuovo, Photos Maria-Irene Moschonas, Shutterstock, George Georgakakis, Marily Zarkou, Will Feuer, Dimitris Polymenopoulos, Mara Despiris, Marco Bertolini, Pavlos Smetanova, Y. Kyvernitis Contributors in this Issue Ethel Dilouambaka, John Zervos, Will Feuer, Anna Roins, Cristina Butler, Richard Pine, Johanna Bonenfant, Corentin Laporte Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Printing Grafima Website and Digital Marketing Webolution Subscriptions Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 Bonjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 15, Abroad € 30 Both magazines in Greece € 40, Abroad € 90 (incl. VAT and postage) Also published in Chinese (Mandarin), Russian and Turkish.

contributors Amanda Dardanis

A print journalist for over two decades, Australian-born Amanda Dardanis started out at News Corp Australia where she has covered specialist rounds from politics, tourism and entertainment. In London, she held senior creative roles at glossy titles including Marie-Claire, Woman’s Own, and the Mail on Sunday’s YOU magazine. Since moving to Athens in 2009, she has written on Greece for international publications like The Times London, the Guardian UK and Australia’s Sunday Telegraph.

Krysta Foteinopoulou

After studying Broadcasting and Journalism at the Univesity of Wolverhampton, Krysta has reported live for the Greek public broadcaster ERT and covered European affairs and business news for the privately-owned SKAI TV. She has also contributed to several Greek sites and is now the newest addition to the Insider Team.

Ethel Dilouambaka

Brussels-bred, Athens-based polyglot with a Master Degree in Translation in her pocket, Ethel is an adventure seeker, professional shower singer and food enthusiast who enjoys spending time with friends and family, traveling around the world, Instagramming and daydreaming with a good book in her hands. Want to see the world through her eyes? Find her on Instagram at @ethel.di.

John Zervos

John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes, reminisces of smoky rembetika bars and elegant Kolonaki women brunching at Zonar’s and tells the story of Athens as few do.

Anna Roins

Anna Roins is a lawyer and a freelance journalist who writes articles on social and community issues. She is also a regular contributor to AUTHORLINK, assigned to conduct interviews with bestselling global authors.

Cristina Butler

Brazil-born, Paris-raised Cristina Butler studied as an interpreter at the Sorbonne and speaks six languages fluently. An intrepid traveller, her career as a cruise director has taken her the world over. Cristina served as the President of the prestigious Women’s International Club and is currently using her considerable public relations skills to organise events and aid charities. Passionate about food, Cristina is Insider’s international food contributor

Richard Pine

Richard Pine is Director of the Durrell Library of Corfu (where he lives) and author of many books including Lawrence Durrell: the Mindscape, Greece Through Irish Eyes, and The Disappointed Bridge: Ireland and Post-Colonial Literature. He is a columnist for The Irish Times and Kathimerini and an obituarist for the Guardian.

Will Feuer

Will Feuer studies Public Policy at the University of Michigan and specializes in journalism with a minor in Chinese Language and Culture. Studying for the semester in Athens, he has reported for Southeast Asia Globe in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, and worked for the European Chamber of Commerce in Beijing as well as Dacheng Law Firm in Yunnan Province, China.

Leo Nuovo

Leo Nuovo is a Classics major at the University of Massachusetts and is spending the year studying in Athens. He is passionate about all forms of writing and enjoys reading in his spare time.

Plaza Cafe #exo

Summer in the City

με δροσερά παγωτά και ice cold beer combos Κάντε ένα διάλειμμα από την καθημερινότητα στο Plaza Cafe του ξενοδοχείου NJV Athens Plaza. Γευτείτε μοναδικά παγωτά αλλά και ice cold beer combos με επιλογές όπως burger, ποικιλία αλλαντικών ή τυριών, club sandwich, πίτσα ή μπρουσκέτα, συνοδευόμενα από μια παγωμένη μπύρα! Τι πιο απολαυστικό!

www.njvathensplaza.gr 5

Πλατεία Συντάγματος | Αθήνα | Τ. 210 3352400

contents CULTURE 10 World Class Acts to Catch at Summer Nostos Festival 2018_10 Capture those timeless summer vibes with our top daily picks from this year’s Summer Nostos Festival. Athens Book Festival_55 Athens celebrates books for a year. The School of Life_58 John Zervos’ awakens his memories of Spetses’ infamous Anargyrios College, immortalized in John Fowles’ The Magus. Lighten your load with “Up lit”_62 Anna Roins joins the new “Up lit” movement and shares 3 titles to brighten your summer. PEOPLE & STYLE The Art of Female Diplomacy_20 Australian Ambassador, Ms. Kate Logan talks to Amanda Dardanis about her vision for a more inclusive era for Greece. Brand Greece Goes Global_24 Katerina Frentzou on her new cultural alliance uniting Greece’s most high-profile creative envoys Beauty Happens_28 Sudha Nair-Iliades meets Angelos Bratis, the man whose fluid Hellenic-inspired creations caught the eye of Giorgio Armani. A Family Affair_50 Mirina Tsantili shares her city and style secrets with Krysta Foteinopoulou. CITY LIFE Confessions from a Posidonian Insider_34 A Posidonian Week veteran’s insider account of the world’s most high-octane shipping event. Mr. Hospitality_36 Amanda Dardanis meets up with Chrysanthos Panas, the Athens’ impresario who is changing the shape and flavour of the city’s entertainment landscape.

Pangrati: The Authentic Athens_40 New Pangrati resident Will Feuer gets acquainted with this up-and-coming creative stronghold. 6 Great Athens Outings for Teens_52 Ethel Dilouambaka scouts out six fun activities in the capital perfect for hard-to-please-teenagers. The Street Romeo of Athens_48 All you need to know about the enigmatic artist Sonke who enlivens our city with his black and white “princesses of the street”. TRAVEL My Island Affair: Corfu Cravings_64 Irish journalist and author Richard Pine on his former pen-pal Lawrence Durrell and the unshakeable bond both shared with Corfu. 10 Best “Secret” Greek Islands _72 Amanda Dardanis shortlists her favourite Greek island destinations where you can still tap into the True Greece and avoid the masses. FOOD & DRINK A Taste for Harmony_80 The Thai Ambassador to Greece, H.E. Chailert Limsonboon, reveals to Cristina Butler the secrets of his country’s sought-after cuisine. Where to Dine in Athens … Right Now_92 Introducing some of the city’s most eligible new dining addresses for you to discover. Athens on a Budget_86 5 tasty spots in the capital where you can satisfy a Herculean appetite on a Spartan budget. Refugee Food Festival_96 A humanitarian initiative that uses the universal power of food to change how we see refugees comes to Athens from June 18 to 24. Restaurant reviews: Spiros and Vasilis Vassilenas Blue Fish Point α

athens insider

Cover Design by Daniel Egnéus

#CULTURE_what’s on

May 4-20 3RD ATHENS STREET FOOD FESTIVAL O.S.Y. What does Athens taste like? Find out at the 3rd Athens Street Food Festival, a celebration of the city’s most popular “street delicacies” and many prized urban morsels from the kitchens of Europe, America, Asia and Africa, to be held over three long weekends in May in the historic space of the Old Amaxostasio. Across a total downtown space area of 4,000 sqm, foodies can indulge in a global feast of street gastronomy. This year’s festival has an extended run and promises a festive vibe with regular DJ sets and live concerts. Pireos and Ermou, Gazi, tel: +30 210.963.6489, athensstreetfoodfestival.gr May 24-27 14TH ATHENS DIGITAL ARTS FESTIVAL Megaron Moussikis Ponder the unknown future of the looming “Technological Apocalypse” as the 14th Athens Digital Arts Festival screens its winning works under the theme Singularity Now from artists from all over the world. Entrants were invited to explore through their digital contributions the idea that humanity has now entered an unpredictable “event horizon” brought about by our constant progress on robotics, AI, biotechnology, biomimicry, nanotechnology, quantum computing and space technology. Vassilis Sofias and Kokkali, tel: +30 210.728.2333, megaron.gr Until May 25 NEY MATOGROSSO Casa do Brasil One of Brazil’s most riveting and revolutionary singing icons - Ney Matogrosso – has been captured in a flamboyant new art collection by Greek artist Alkistis Michaelidou. The showcase, titled Ney Matogrosso - A Primordial Revolutionary, is part of Casa do Brasil, a series of cultural events hosted by the Embassy of Brazil in Athens. Through 33 of her works, Michaelidou offers the viewer a window to discover the unrivalled charismatic personality of the emblematic singer and his unusually diverse and original contributions to the arts world. 23 Vasilissis Sophias Avenue, Kolonaki, tel: +30 210-721.3039. Until May 27 A VIEW FROM THE BRIDGE National Theatre See legendary playwright Arthur Miller’s iconic masterpiece about migrants in 1950s Brooklyn in search of the American Dream in this perceptive and contemporary production directed by Nikaiti Kontouri. Miller gave his play the pace and tension of a detective story, while the structure of A View from the Bridge was directly influenced by ancient Greek tragedy. The performance has English subtitles. Tickets from €10. Ziller Building, Agiou Konstantinou 22, Metaxourgeio.

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arts & events May 31 RELEASE ATHENS 2018 Plateia Nerou Rag’n’Bone Man - the “good giant” of soul blues and pop, who swept the board with his album Human and is one of the UK’s biggest chart topper - headlines at the first day of Release Athens 2018. Pre-sale prices for the opening day start from €80. Tickets from viva.gr or by phone on 11876. Plateia Nerou/Water Square (open air), Falirou, releaseathens.gr June 1-3 MADE IN BEER FESTIVAL O.S.Y. Three cheers for beer at this merry three-day festival that celebrates the recent creative explosion in Greece’s beer industry. Make the acquaintance of dozens of domestic and foreign brewers whose products are not distributed in Greece at great prices, sample fresh beer brewed exclusively for the festival, and visit the largest Beer Bar built in this country, along with a hale and hearty line-up of live entertainment. Pireos and Ermou, Gazi, tel: +30.210.963.6489, athensbeerfestival.gr

June 19 NEW WORLDS WITH BILL MURRAY Herodion Atticus See Hollywood funnyman Bill Murray as you’ve never seen him before as he performs pieces by Foster, Gershwin and Bernstein alongside German cellist Jan Vogler in this Athens Festival highlight. Murray and Vogler struck up a friendship after meeting on a trans-Atlantic flight and cooking up a joint artistic project, showcasing each other’s work. Tickets from €25-110 on tickets.greekfestival.gr Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis. athens insider

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June 8-October GEORGE CONDO AT CYCLADIC Museum of Cycladic Art Encounter the fractured portraits and aggressive imagery that has made George Condo one of the most vital figurative sculptors in America at his first major solo exhibition in Greece. The showcase will include paintings, sculptures and drawings spanning his 40-year career, with a catalogue to be published to mark the occasion. In the 1980s, Condo – who has described his work as “psychological Cubism” - was instrumental in reviving figuration in American art, together with Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, and Jeff Koons. Neophytou Douka 4, tel: +30 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr

#CULTURE_what’s on

arts & events June 21-24 ART ATHINA Athens Conservatory Join in a four - day celebration of the city’s artistic renaissance as Art-Athina 2018 opens its doors at a prestigious new cultural venue and with a new artistic director Stamatia Dimitrakopoulou. Not just another art fair, this sophisticated highlight of the Athenian art calendar brings together the most influential local galleries and international exhibitors under the one roof and should not be missed. To find out more about exhibiting artists and galleries visit art-athina.gr, Vasileos Georgiou B 17, tel: +30 210.724.0673, athensconservatoire.gr June 22-23 STING Herodion Atticus One of the year’s hottest tickets as rock legend Sting performs live at the historic Odeon of Herodes to open this year’s Athens and Epidaurus Festival. The Newcastle-born singer-songwriter and activist last performed at the venue in May 1996 during his Mercury Falling tour. As one of the world’s most distinctive solo artists, Sting has garnered 10 Grammy Awards, two Brits, a Golden Globe, an Emmy, a TONY nomination and Billboard Magazine’s Century Award. He was inducted into The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in 2003. Tickets from €66 on tickethouse.gr Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis. July 5 NANA MOUSKOURI Herodion Atticus The eternal Greek singer performs some of her best-known anthems and international hits including Chartino to Fengaraki, White Rose of Athens and Je chante avec toi Liberté in this landmark concert I Will Tell You a Story with part of the proceeds to be donated to ELPIDA – Association of Friends of Children with Cancer. Tickets from €15-85 on tickets.greekfestival.gr. Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis.

#CULTURE_what’s on

July 16 SCORPIONS Panathenaic Stadium German rock legends Scorpions will appear in Athens for one epic gig as part of their world tour Once in a Lifetime at the historic Panathenaic Stadium. It will be the first time that the iconic band, formed in 1965 and with worldwide album sales of 100 million, plays this ancient 45,000-seater venue. In another first, the evening will be kicked off by the Athens Orchestra, presenting some of the band’s biggest hits with a symphonic sound. Tickets from €25, reservations on +30 210.723.4567 or on ticketservices.gr. Leof. Vasileos Konstantinou, Athens July 27-31 CARMEN Herodion Atticus Surrender to the most popular French opera of all time – a symbol of love and freedom – as this sharp and sumptous Greek National Opera production directed by the distinguished artistic director of the Göteborg Opera, Stephen Langridge, stages at the majestic Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Langridge creates a contemporary yet also timeless universe for Carmen’s iconic story set in today’s Europe, a continent of closed borders and poverty. Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis

Until November HADRIAN’S LEGACY National Archeological Museum Hadrian and Athens: Conversing with an Ideal World is an illuminating exhibition about the famous Roman ruler’s immense enduring legacy in Greece, and how Hadrian the Emperor contributed to forging many of the cornerstones of Western culture. Admission is €4. The display features 40 exhibits from the National Archeological Museum’s collections and marks 1,900 years since the beginning of Hadrian’s Principate in AD 117. Patission 44, tel: +30 213.214.4800, namuseum.gr athens insider

July 17 BACH MEETS NIGEL KENNEDY Herodion Atticus Revel in the exquisitely-stirring strains of Nigel Kennedy, one of the bestselling violinists of all time (his recording of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons alone sold over 3 million copies). For the last 30 years, the endearingly-eccentric Kennedy has covered everyone from classical composers to Jimi Hendrix, and has collaborated with music legends including Sir Paul McCartney, Kate Bush, Robert Plant and The Who. His Athens Festival performance Bach meets Kennedy meets Gershwin is billed as a tour de force, establishing a dialogue between Bach and the contemporary jazz classics of Gehwin. Areopagitou Dionisiou, Acropolis

World Class Acts to Catch at Summer Nostos Festival 2018!

Nostos, or νόστος in ancient Greek, roughly translates to a ‘homecoming’ with specific reference to the return of Odysseus and other Greek heroes of the Trojan War. In a slightly different context, the Summer Nostos Festival at the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre seeks to bring us all ‘back home’ to those timeless days of peaceful summer through a week-long programme of international music, dance, theater and so much more (between June 17 and 24). And like the best things in life, it’s all free! Will Feuer shares his top daily picks from the pack.

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June 17 Bowie Tribute The legend that is David Bowie has sadly left us but his music lives on. Hear critically-acclaimed Brazilian songwriter and actor, Seu Jorge, as he teams up with the Athens State Orchestra to perform Jorge’s The Life Aquatic – a tribute to David Bowie. Jorge’s life, in addition to his musical muscle is worthy of attention. Raised in the favelas near Rio, he was homeless for three years when he was 19. He played a major role in the 2002 film City of God about a favela near Rio like the one he lived in. He has since performed at the Bonnaroo Festival, Austin City Limits and the London Summer Olympics closing ceremony. The performance will feature Bowie’s greatest hits with a Portuguese twist as they were adapted for Wes Anderson’s 2004 film The Life Aquatic of Steve Zissou. Bowie himself once said, “If Seu Jorge had not recorded my songs in Portuguese I would have never heard this new level of beauty which he has imbued them with.”

Photo by Lars Bjarnø athens insider

June 18 American Contemporary Music Ensemble The American Contemporary Music Ensemble and Theatre of Voices will appear in Athens under the direction of conductor Paul Hillier to perform Drone Mass, a work that straddles both ancient and modern. Sadly, the performance will be missing one key member of the group – Jóhann Jóhannsson. The famous Icelandic composer passed away in February aged 48. In his lifetime, he earned a golden globe and was twice nominated for Best Original Score in the Oscars. There is perhaps no better way to honor Jóhannsson’s life than by checking out Drone Mass when it arrives here in our city.

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The American Ballet Theatre Studio Company Officially recognized as “America’s National Ballet Company” in 2006, the New York-based American Ballet Theatre Studio Company will open the SN Festival on June 17. The Studio Company consists of 12 dancers carefully selected from all over the world. Producing alumni like Misty Copeland and David Hallberg, the Studio Company is among the most distinguished of ballet groups.

June 19 John Cale & Band Legendary Welsh musician and founding member of 1960s American rock group The Velvet Underground will bring his new band to Athens to headline the Summer Nostos Festival. Formed in 1964, The Velvet Underground failed to capture commercial success with their avant-garde style, but have since been hailed as one of the most prolific rock-and-roll groups of their time (Andy Warhol briefly managed them). Since leaving the band, Cale has released 16 solo albums. Kronos Quartet American Grammy-winning string quartet Kronos Quartet will also be in attendance at the SNFestival with Academy-Award nominated director Sam Green as they present their creative “live documentary,” A Thousand Thoughts on June 19. The multimedia documentary artistically blends live music and narration performed by Kronos Quartet with historical video captured by Green. It’s a critically acclaimed tale of brilliance told through an inventive medium.

June 20 Theater of War Returning after a successful reading last year titled Antigone in Ferguson, Theater of War Productions is directing Athens’ attention to Martin Luther King Junior’s last sermon, The Drum Major Instinct. The Theater of War is a group that addresses public health and social issues through dramatic readings of ancient plays and contemporary works. The Drum Major Instinct, of course, falls under the latter and tackles the matter of human impulse. A hopefully constructive conversation on social justice and equality will follow the reading. New York-based Theater of War has welcomed famous actors like Jesse Eisenberg, Jake Gyllenhaal and Samira Wiley of Orange is the New Black as readers at their performances. The cast list is not yet out for Athens!

Photo by Swan Brackbill

#CULTURE_what’s on

June 22

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Lianne La Havas Half-Greek, half-Jamaican and conspicuously British, Lianne La Havas’ much anticipated concert is set for June 22. Nominated for not only a Grammy, but also a BRIT award, La Havas often makes guest appearances on Coldplay’s A Head Full of Dreams tour. Exquisite songwriting combines musical mastery to deliver unforgettable performances. Her 2012 album Is Your Love Big Enough? won iTunes Album of the Year. Since then, she’s strutted across the world, performing alongside and collaborating with the likes of Prince and Alt-J. Don’t miss this one!

athens insider

#CULTURE_what’s on

Photo by Benjamin Chasteen

June 22 & 23 Garry Kasparov The famed Russian chess grandmaster, writer and political activist Garry Kasparov returns to the SNFestival after a light-hearted showdown in 2017 when Kasparov took on some of Greece’s young aspiring chess masters simultaneously. He won. This year’s competition promises to be unique. In 1985, Kasparov became the world’s youngest undisputed World Chess Champion at 22. From 1986, to his professional retirement in 2005, he ranked #1 in the world, excluding just three months. He is widely considered the greatest chess player of all time.

June 23 Animal Collective David Portner and Noah Lennox, more excitedly known as Avey Tare and Panda Bear of US experimental pop band Animal Collective take the stage to perform their 2004 album Sung Tongs in its entirety. Founded in 2003 in Baltimore, Animal Collective’s ambience is characterized by their vocal harmonies and their crossgenre experimentation with folk, rock, psychedelic and more.

June 24 Giorgos Xatzipavlou Magic and comedy, what could go better together? One of Athens’ most popular comedians Giorgos Xatzipavlou teams up with world-renowned New York-based magician Mark Mitton to host a 70-minute spectacle for all ages. Xatzipavlou is among the pioneers of stand-up comedy shows in theaters around Greece and founded Stand Up for U, an annual comedy show to support UNICEF. His partner at SNFestival, Mitton, has created work for film and television, appeared on Broadway and Cirque du Soleil, and has performed for celebrities like Mick Jagger, Beyoncé and John Mayer. This is a mustsee extravaganza to top off the blowout week.

All SNFestival events are free and open for all. The concerts and happenings take place on five outdoor and indoor, stages, inside the buildings and at other unexpected locations throughout the Stavros Niarchos Park and the SNFCC. The SNFestival opens Sunday afternoon on June 17th and closes after midnight on Sunday, June 24th. For more information on the programme visit snfestival.org athens insider

#CULTURE_what’s on

fast lane

Fashion takes front row at the Cycladic

Fashion and art’s natural synchronicities are celebrated in an exciting new alliance between the Museum of Cycladic Art and 14 of Greece’s top design stars. As part of the fashion project, Cycladic Forms, leading fashion brands including Deux Hommes, Angelos Bratis, Zeus & Dione and Di Gaia have each created a unique garment or accessory to be available exclusively for sale at the Cycladic Shop from May 4 for a one month period. The creative exhibition has been curated, in collaboration with the Cycladic Shop, by the well-known Greek style and fashion identity, and former Vogue editor, Michali Pantos. Cycladic Forms shows the light of the Aegean, the formalism of the Cycladic figurines, the measure and the aesthetics of ancient Greek art, are depicted through the prism of fashion and become clothes, jewelery, glasses, shoes, hats and scarves.

Mykonos Musings The Cycladic Shop is open during Museum hours: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday: 10.00-17.00; Thursday: 10.00-20.00; and Sunday: 11.00-17.00. Museum of Cycladic Art, Neophytou Douka 4, tel: +30 210.722.8321-3, cycladic.gr Deux Hommes

Di Gaia

Blanc Hats

Cycladic Forms. All photos by Paris Tavitian

Island of the Winds, the Ibiza of Greece, Party Paradiso … Mykonos has as many names as it has faces. Now, a ravishing new coffee table tome has come along as an essential acquisition for all cognoscentes of this iconic Cycladic playground. Mykonos Muse, just published by Assouline (and on sale for €69), chronicles a century of this famous Greek isle’s most defining cultural moments – from its days as a hideout for artistic luminaries such as Le Corbusier and as a Shangri-La for the gay and hippy communities, to its current status as a hedonistic hot spot for the world’s gypset. Discover the myths, characters – and perfect beaches – that have cemented Mykonos’ legend. Mykonos Muse is the creation of Greek photographer Lizy Manola who bought a house on Mykonos three decades ago and has summered there ever since. Visit www.assouline.com to get your copy.

#CITY LIFE_fast lane

Powerhouse French chef Arnaud Bignon returns to Greece

If any more proof were needed that Greece’s gastronomic scene is smoking hot right now, look no further than the return to Athens of celebrated ex-Spondi chef Arnaud Bignon. Bignon has been lured away from London’s The Greenhouse restaurant to captain The Trestelis Group’s elite eateries that include his old stomping ground Spondi and Hytra. The awardwinning French chef headed up The Greenhouse for six years during which time the Mayfair restaurant earned its second Michelin star. Bignon can also lay claim to being one of the youngest ever chefs to earn twin Michelin stars at the age of just 32 while at the helm of Spondi. Read our report on Athens’ hottest new dining addresses on page 92.

Historic new ferry route for the Ionians

Long arduous ferry journeys between the Ionian islands will be a thing of the past this summer as the popular island cluster is linked for the first time in history by a much-needed new ferry route. From May 1, visitors who would have previously had to travel far out of their way – and usually back to the mainland – can now island hop between Corfu, Lefkada, Ithaca, Kefalonia, Zakynthos and Paxos, from Monday through to Saturday. The long-awaited routes were introduced to end the traditional isolation between the beautiful Ionian island group and to boost their tourism potential. The service by ferry company Ilida Paxos Hydrofoil will be run on a 30-metre long vessel, with a capacity for 260 passengers, and will continue through until October 14. athens insider

Sharing harrowing true stories to drive empathy and support for the world’s 50 million refugees is all part of the job for Melissa Fleming - chief spokesperson for the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR). But now, Fleming’s recently-published novel A Hope More Powerful Than the Sea - the incendiary story of young Syrian refugee, Doaa Al Zamel who survived being shipwrecked while fleeing from Egypt to Sweden - has caught the gaze of two of Hollywood’s most powerful directors. Steven Spielberg and J.J. Abrams have partnered up to secure the rights to A Hope More Powerful Than the Sea (though the film is yet to attach a writer or director). Zamel was fleeing from Egypt to Europe with her fiancé when their boat carrying 500 refugees was attacked and left to capsize in the Mediterranean. After four days, Zamel was finally found by rescuers, clinging to debris with two infants clasped to her. The nineteen-year-old (and not her fiance) was one of only 11 survivors. In a more hopeful next chapter, she is now in Sweden and has earned a scholarship towards her education.

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Refugee’s Tale to get the Hollywood Treatment

fast lane Paul Chan in Athens

The New Yorker once described him as a “deep-thinking American making art out of shadows”. Now, Athens audiences can experience head on the cerebral creations of Paul Chan that combine fashion with psychics when he presents a body of new and recent works – Odysseus and the Bathers – at the Museum of Cycladic Art from July 5. Chan’s arresting and visionary art usually concerns itself with liberating moving images from the confines of frames and this latest exhibition, too, will be comprised of kinetic sculptural works that fall under the umbrella of his “breathers” and “bathers” inventions. Each figure is composed of a fabric “body” designed by Chan and attached to specially modified fans. Chan then manipulates how the figures move by composing the internal architecture of the bodies to create different kinds of motion in three dimensions. Odysseus and the Bathers, presented by NEON, will be guest-curated by Sam Thorne, Director of Nottingham Contemporary, and has been organised in collaboration with the U.S. Embassy in Athens. The exhibition will run until October 14 at the Museum of Cycladic Art, Neophytou Douka 4, tel: +30.210.722.8321-3, cycladic.gr

A new Durrell novel set in Greece

“You should see the landscape of Greece. It would break your heart.” -- Lawrence Durrell The canon of Lawrence Durrell – the cherished English poet, Grecophile and author now back in vogue thanks to the popular television series The Durrells – is about to be expanded by one, 28 years after his death. Admirers of Durrell, whose best known works include Prospero’s Cell and Alexandria’s Quartet - will be quick to snap up his new publication, The Placebo. The novel, edited by Richard Pine and David Roessel, mines Durrell’s notebooks, manuscripts and typescripts and is distinguished from his other novels in that it is set entirely in Greece. In The Placebo, the editors chart Durrell’s increasing disillusion with the decline of civilisation, the poverty of the written word and the marginalisation of creativity over a ten-year period. Says Richard Pine: “The book consists of three drafts, written from 1955 onwards. It was left unfinished because he was deeply troubled in his professional and personal life.” The Placebo is illustrated with photographs of Athens in the first half of the twentieth century, depicting the capital much as it still was in the period in which the book is set (the late 1940s to early 1950s). Meanwhile, the cover is based on Durrell’s sketch for the village of “Peristeri”. Read Richard Pine’s Insider’s Guide to Corfu on page 64. The Placebo will be published by Colenso Books in early June and can be pre-ordered. All order enquiries should be sent to colensobooks@gmail.com

Fulbright candles

blows

out

One of Europe’s oldest and most pivotal “scholarly swaps” – the Fulbright Foundation - just celebrated its 70th anniversary, with an acknowledgement of its great contribution to the advancement of science and culture worldwide. In the seven decades since the Fulbright program for educational exchanges between Greece and the United States was signed in Athens, 5,500 Greek, American and GreekAmerican scientists, academics, artists and students have benefited from the initiative launched by Senator J. William Fulbright in the late 1940s. In a special ceremony at the Presidential Mansion last month to mark the auspicious milestone, the American Ambassador to Greece, Mr. Geoffrey Pyatt, said the enduring success of the programme was “proof of the importance both countries attached to education.” Pyatt added: “It is also telling of the bilateral approach adopted by both countries in order to promote and defend our nations’ interests. The Fulbright Program has helped our countries understand one another better while at the same time enriching our understanding of the world around us.” The Fulbright Foundation in Greece offers scholarships to Greek and American citizens – students, teachers, scholars, and artists – to pursue a wide variety of educational projects. The Foundation awards grants to Greek and US citizens to study, teach, lecture, or conduct research in the United States and Greece respectively. For more information, visit www.fulbright.gr

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for 2 children under 16

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Novotel Athènes 4-6, Michail Voda street | 104 39 Athens, Greece Τ (+30) 210 82 00 700 | F (+30) 210 82 00 777 | M h0866@accor.com * Accommodation and breakfast taken as a family are free for two children under 16 who share a room with their parents or grand-parents. For the 50% off a 2nd room offer, the discount applies to the best rate without condition. Breakfast taken as a family is free for children up to 16 years old. athens insider 21 Offer subject to availability. For the room available up to 5pm, ask at reception upon arrival. Offers available all year round.

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Create happy memories at Novotel ATHÈNES

The Art of Female Diplomacy

Photo by Dimitris Polymenopoulos

As a young girl, Australia’s new Ambassador to Greece, Ms. Kate Logan, once thought of becoming an archeologist. Now, after postings in Paris and Colombo, she joins this country’s growing ranks of female envoys and hopes to witness the start of a more inclusive era for Greek society and commerce, as Insider’s Amanda Dardanis discovers.

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few minutes before noon. I’m in the light-flooded sitting room of the Australian Embassy’s residence in leafy Psychiko, waiting for the newly-minted Australian envoy to Greece, Kate Logan, to appear for our scheduled interview. To pass the time, I’m admiring her marvelous Australian wall art which evokes my own poignant memories of growing up Down Under. Some of the paintings are hers (the lovely technicolour floral near the book shelves by Irene Barberis). Others, it turns out, are on loan for the duration of her posting, like the witty oil of that much-loved icon of Australian suburbia – the Hills Hoist clothes-line. At twelve on the dot, Ambassador Logan arrives, passing her young son’s scooter in the hallway, emanating a bright bonhomie, unnecessary apologies and that very Australian knack of making you feel like you’ve known her for years. Ms. Logan makes a beeline to the kitchen to put the kettle on. ‘What kind of tea would you like?’ she asks, delving into her neat pantry for tea-bags and biscuits to serve with them. A quick inspection of the fridge follows. ‘Oh no, we’re out of milk! Sorry about that,’ she laughs sheepishly. They’re off to Paros for the Easter hiatus tomorrow, it transpires, and running down supplies. For this dynamic, forty-something career diplomat from Melbourne, who briefly studied Ancient Greek and the Classics as a young university student, this is a true full-circle moment. Athens was her first diplomatic posting over 20 years ago. She lived “just up the road” from her current Psychiko lodgings then too. ‘How’s your ancient Greek these days?’ I ask Ambassador Logan while we wait for the kettle to boil. ‘Well, I can still say: “This ship is going to Byzantium!”’ she jokes. ‘But that’s about it. My Greek is so rusty now, I really need to rekindle it.’ As fellow Australians, it’s not long before we’re commiserating about the cricket cheating scandal that has disgraced our national sport this week and made headlines all over the world. It’s the deepest of cuts and goes right to the root of our national identity and our finest notions of ourselves (the famous Aussie “Fair Go”). ‘I can barely talk about it,’ Ambassador Logan puts her head in her hands briefly. ‘Now I’m going to have to become a soccer fan instead. Seriously, I love soccer. I just need to get to a match! It’s one of my projects while I’m here.’ Tea served, it’s time to talk about what other projects and aspirations Kate Logan holds for her second diplomatic adventure here in the Greek capital.

So … how does a girl from Melbourne, Australia, wind up studying Ancient Greek? Even as a kid, I always had a passion for classical Greece. I remember for years at school saying to people, rather precociously I now suspect, that I wanted to be an archeologist when I grew up. Clearly I failed at that but here I am! And I think that’s why I applied to come to Greece on my very first overseas posting (from 1995-1999). It was the only one I applied for and I got lucky. What changes can you see in the city since then? Back then, you still had the old airport; traffic was worse; there was no Attiki Odos, no metro, no zebra crossings and no receipts! People would smoke at the movies. Now, there have been huge advances in infrastructure and it feels very much like Athens has become more European. It’s an easier city to live in. And what of the people of Athens. How have they evolved? I get a sense walking around town and talking to people that the hardships they’ve gone through are still very fresh and palpable. But at the same time, you get a sense of resilience and that people are diversifying in their roles and jobs. There’s more inventiveness and creativity coming through and a really high energy. I think Greece has always had that but you’re seeing it now in new areas. There’s an edginess about the energy of Athens too which I love. That hint of chaos to keep you on your toes! What particular strengths do female diplomats bring to the table in your opinion? I think the strengths women bring are knowing diplomatic tradecraft, applying it astutely, having a strong sense of our national interest, building strong teams and networking effectively. These strengths aren’t exclusive to women, of course, but many women in the Australian foreign service possess them. Who has been your most influential female mentor in life? I’ve been lucky to have had a number of female mentors. In Australia, there’s no shortage of strong female leaders: we have a female Foreign Minister, Defence Minister, Head of the Foreign Ministry, Chief Justice and lots of other senior women. So I’ve taken my lead by choosing the traits I most admire in each

There’s an edginess to the energy of Athens which I love. That hint of chaos to keep you on your toes!

of them. It’s with a little bit of pride that at gatherings of leaders around the world – usually male - I often see women sitting behind the Australian flag. It says a lot of really positive things about my country. What is the most pressing issue on your agenda right now? Australia and the European Union have agreed to negotiate a Free Trade Agreement and we are keen to launch those negotiations as soon as possible. Reading the media, it’s obvious that there’s no more important time to send a signal about the economic power of open markets and liberalised trade, when protectionist instincts are so evident in some other parts of the world. An FTA is the next logical step for countries like Australia and Greece to strengthen our deep cultural and historical ties and increase the potential for jobs and growth in both our countries. What cultural affinities do you believe exist between Greece and Australia? There are rich and deep cultural affinities. To start with, there’s a 600,000 strong Greek-speaking diaspora in Australia that forms a vibrant and highly-valued element of modern Australian society. There’s also a very large community of Greek-

Australians living in Greece. We get on – we’re both easy-going people, prepared to give people a go, hardworking and we love life. That’s a great basis on which to build deeper political and economic linkages and it makes my job a lot easier. What lessons might Greek businesses learn from the Australian approach? First I’d say that the Australian corporate sector can learn from Greek businesses, many of which have persevered through incredibly hard economic times, shown resilience and adapted to the changed environment. Australia has experienced an unprecedented record of economic growth but Greece shows us that strong businesses can prevail when the going is tough. What can Greek businesses learn from Australia? The lesson I’d highlight here is the value of diversity - in staff, in leadership, in decision-making, in board membership. Lots of research - and indeed stock market valuations - now show clearly that companies which draw from diverse perspectives at senior levels deliver stronger results and higher profits. As you point out, Australia has a commendable track record in championing women both in society and in public office. Furthermore, Australian

Photo by Dimitris Polymenopoulos

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How the Greek economy recovers from recession is a reference point for all of Europe. What diagnosis would you make about Greece’s current fiscal potential? Part of my job is talking to ministers, government officials, banks and analysts and yes there is the sense of budding optimism that the economy is - if not yet in an upswing - then certainly stabilising. I’m keen to look at opportunities for Australian investment here. Australian companies make good judgments about athens insider

Greece shows us that strong businesses can prevail when the going is tough.

risk and there are some signs now that there are opportunities for Australian investment in areas such as infrastructure, real estate and tourism. Greece is more open now and is sending positive messages about its interest in attracting foreign investment. What’s one of your favourite Athenian qualities? It’s the constant little surprises that I love so much in Athens. You can be walking down a street on your way to work and there will be a new design store run by a young Greek entrepreneur or a Thai street food place that you didn’t expect to see or a Greek-Australian at a café making a flat white!

Your favourite go-to place to take visitors to the capital to impress them? I’ve always loved the rooftop bars and restaurants of Athens (places like Zillers). Then there’s the beaches of the riviera with that incredible water … Australians and swimming, right! I love that unique Greek take on beach life where you can eat at the fish taverna right on the water’s edge and go for a dip in between your barbounia and the main course. Which Australian staple can’t you live without? Can I say it? Vegemite. Love it.•

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women were given the vote in 1902 (half a century before Greek women!). How does Greece score on this point these days in your opinion? We talked before about Greece being an energetic country and the economy diversifying and needing to do more of that. One area which is ripe for that is on the inclusivity side. A country or organization that doesn’t harness the perspectives, skills, insights and intelligence of 50 per cent of its population is never going to realise its full potential. I think that’s still a work in progress here in Greece. But there are some great organisations, such as Women Act, who are working really hard towards that goal, and we’ve just hosted a joint event with them to advance these themes.

Brand Greece Goes Global Greece’s cultural heritage is hot property. In fact, if Brand Greece could be distilled and traded on the stock market right now, it would be in a bull market. Enter Katerina Frentzou, journalist and founder of Branding Heritage, a timely cultural alliance between some of the country’s finest and most high-profile creative ambassadors. From purveyors of ancient Greek olive oil produced on the bedrock of ancient Mycenae; to jewellery and footwear artisans breathing exquisite new life into millennia-old creations; and famous fashion labels who are reviving traditional Greek crafts; Katerina Frentzou explains how Branding Heritage unites for the first time over 30 Greek companies with the common goal of fuelling Greece’s economic recovery - and our country’s “assertive re-branding” abroad.

Qupa. The Plan of Knossos Palace

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Was there one “light bulb” moment when you decided that you simply had to launch Branding Heritage? Branding Heritage was born from my journalistic impulse to highlight the upcoming trends related to my country’s rich culture. The ‘Grecian chic’ movement is not only a fashion trend, but also strongly connected with Greek history and culture, something that I couldn’t fully showcase through just one article. For that reason, I wanted to create a platform, a Cultural Organisation, which would serve as a community and point athens insider

of reference, where every brand that honours Ancient Greek heritage could be represented, join forces and contribute to the one common goal: to highlight that ancient Greek culture is not just about the past; it still continues to inspire and influence contemporary fashion and design worldwide. What is the main message of Branding Heritage that you would like to see take root outside of Greece? That Modern Greek creativity is as productive and imaginative as ever and can claim its rightful place in the global market. BH supports brands like Zeus + Dione, Faye Chatzi and LOOMHandmade who are reviving ancient Greek techniques and crafts by creating products of cultural and economic value. BH has also established an Advisory Board, a network of scientists, including archaeologists, political scientists, sociologists and journalists, who are sharing their knowledge on the timeless value and influence of Greek culture. Through this joint effort between public and private sectors, we hope to emphasise that Greece is not just a country adversely affected by the financial crisis, but rather a modern nation with rich history and dynamic potential, whose artists and entrepreneurs manage to evolve and create despite their challenges. How can building awareness about Greece’s cultural heritage help accelerate this country’s financial recovery? Greece’s unique cultural heritage with its archaeological sites and museums has always been a fundamental pillar of the Greek economy and a great asset for Greece as a world-famous tourist destination. As such, it’s vital to capitalise on the opportunities that our past offers and embrace them to build on the future. During this difficult time for Greece, artists can turn to cultural entrepreneurship which now plays an important role in global design, fashion and gastronomy to create new opportunities and solutions.

Ancient Greek culture is not just about the past; it still continues to inspire and influence contemporary fashion and design worldwide.

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Why do you think that Greek Culture is so “hot” right now on the world stage? Greek culture was never really out of fashion. The greatness of ancient Greek Art has been a fundamental inspiration for artists and top global fashion designers continuously during the past decades: from Mariano Fortuny and his famous Delphos dress to Madeleine Vionnet and Madame Grès who led this trend in the past century by artfully capturing in their designs the draping (folds) of ancient Greek garments, up until today with the recent Gucci collection dedicated to the Greek god Dionysus or the impressive Chanel collection entitled The Modernity of Antiquity, a tribute to Ancient Greece by Karl Lagerfeld. As for contemporary Greek designers, they are increasingly capitalising on this valuable heritage to their own advantage. During a difficult period for this country, they are re-introducing the Ancient Greek civilisation to an international audience and transforming history into creativity. As an example, we have Ancient Greek Sandals, a 100% Greek Brand, transporting the ancient myth of the Greek god Hermes and his winged sandals across 50 countries, with famous fans such as Michelle Obama. Other highly-successful Greek designers who are honouring their heritage include Sophia Kokosalaki and her incredible Grecian style and Mary Katranzou with her recent Minoan Collection.

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Culture and its related activities are now one of the most promising growth sectors internationally. How easy was it to recruit so many leading brands to the cause? Through my longstanding career as a journalist, and the personal contacts Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve established with a number of brand creators in the field, I was able to win the confidence of these companies, especially those of international calibre. They promptly accepted the invitation to unite under the expanding umbrella community of Branding Heritage and their participation and contribution is essential for the advancement of our goals. Can you tell us about the Minoan Culture gala that Branding Heritage staged in Crete in mid-May, in conjunction with the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, the British School of Athens and Region of Crete, which was attended by HRH Prince Charles. What were other highlights? Branding Heritage, prompted by the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage, decided to dedicate this year to the first European Civilisation, the Minoan civilisation, which flourished between 3.000 B.C. and 1.200 B.C., mainly in Central and Eastern Crete. Even today, the majestic palaces of Knossos, Phaestus, Malia and many others reflect the splendour of the Minoan civilisation through masterpieces of architecture, pottery, jewellery and painting. Acknowledging that Minoan symbols continue to inspire contemporary designers, BH held a cultural event entitled Contemporary Minoans at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum in Crete - one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prestigious and visited museums - and the Region of Crete. The event underlined the influence of Minoan civilisation on modern fashion and jewellery, and hosted influential Greek designers who created original contemporary Minoan pieces (exclusively for the purposes of BH), that breathed life into the great Minoan finds. During the event, the internationallyrenowned Cretan-born designer Sophia Kokosalaki was also honoured for her contribution to the promotion of Greek heritage; while another highly-engaging creative event was Cooking like Minoans - organised by Branding Heritage and the British School at Athens (BSA) and devoted to reviving the Minoan Gastronomy.

You have met and interviewed many of the brands that you are championing. Is there one key attitude or philosophy that most of them have in common when it comes to achieving success internationally? What all brands who are part of the Branding Heritage community have in common is their high aesthetic values and their inspiration from the Greek heritage. They are all creators with vision, grasping that the past and history of their country can be a catalyst for their creative future.

Modern Greek creativity is as productive and imaginative as ever and can claim its rightful place in the global market.

Would you say that we are witnessing a new spirit of collaboration within the Greek fashion industry and other creative industries? It seems that the economic crisis has had some spill-over benefits as well. It has contributed to an advancement of some of the values and practices of Greek entrepreneurs in the cultural and creative industries, prompting them to collaborate more closely, unite and be more flexible and outgoing. The Contemporary Minoans event is vivid proof of that. We are really proud that for the first time we united various cultural and creative industries for a single cause: to prove that collaboration across fashion, gastronomy, cultural heritage and cultural tourism bears fruit. â&#x20AC;˘ www.brandingheritage.org

Ancient Greek sandals. Exclusive pieve for Branding Heritage.

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Beauty Happens

SS18 collection shot on Tinos.

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Fashion high priestess Suzy Menkes once described him as the man who “turned Grecian folds into 21st-century clothes” and his effortlessly fluid designs are anchored on the principles of complex simplicity and impeccable technique. Angelos Bratis – who worked alongside the likes of Vionnet as head designer and was hand-picked by Giorgio Armani to show at Milan Fashion Week a couple of years ago - is one of the most exciting Greek fashion talents to have made his mark internationally. Insider’s Sudha Nair-Iliades caught up with him just ahead of the launch of his new store in Mykonos.

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ABOUT YOU What does style mean to you personally? Style is not something you describe. It is not something you put in a box. It has to do with personality. Someone who is not elegant when he is naked cannot be elegant when he is dressed. You’ve been described as a Greek with an Italian address who mastered his craft in the Netherlands and you now split your time between the UK, Mykonos and Athens. Where is home? I come from a family that moved all the time because my Dad always had new ideas, new projects, taking the whole family along on his entrepreneurial ventures. Suzy Menkes asked me once when we were both in Italy: “What brings you to Rome?” And I replied, “What always brings me anywhere – love.” That’s

Maria-Irene Moschona

ngelos Bratis is at his very sparsely decorated pied-a terre that serves as his atelier in central Athens. It is an unfettered space with just a couple of Eames chairs, a bare wooden table, austere white walls unadorned but for a lone Yiannis Moralis painting, whose sensual, even sexual forms have found their way into Bratis’ purist Grecian dresses. The only hint of colour stems from rolled bales of fabric and his hallmark drape dresses. A copy of the latest issue of Home and Country’s UK edition featuring an 8-page photo essay on Bratis’ home that he shares with his partner Justin in the English countryside in Northhamptonshire graces the table. In contrast to his stark Athens pad, his luminous country house boasts an eclectic mix of Italian art deco and French vintage finds, with uplifting bursts of fuchsia and teal. The décor apparently changes almost weekly, as do the music and cuisine, to reflect each week’s “new aesthetic”. From the 12-year old boy growing up in a tiny village in the Peloponnese, who rode the bus for two hours to spend his hard-earned pocket money on fashion magazines, to being touted by fashion’s biggest influencers - Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani and The International Herald Tribune’s Suzy Menkes, (now International Vogue editor) - as one of the prominent upcoming designers to watch, Angelos Bratis has indeed come a long way. Today, it’s a more philosophical 40-year old Bratis who sits in front of me and looks back on the heady hype of his early career. Disarming and frank, he pours himself a cup of black coffee, and leans back languorously to reminisce on his childhood and assesses what success means to him now in 2018.

Angelos Bratis at his atelier in Athens. a wonderful way to move to places. As a love immigrant. The beauty of what I do is that I can take my work anywhere I want – I just need my imagination and my hands. I don’t need to be bound by a physical space. Does your Greek heritage and identity weave its way into your designs subconsciously despite all these myriad influences? As a young designer, you want to get as far away from your roots as possible and explore new things. My first lesson in digging deep into my Greek identity was during my Masters at the Netherlands’ Fashion Institute in Arnhem. We had to present our first ever collection with 20 pieces at Paris Couture. That was my first show and I was 22. Barney’s in New York, who wanted to buy the collection, insisted that they only wanted designs rooted in one’s heritage. I worked on it, on the fluidity - and I have come to the realization that what one sees as Greek in my work is the freedom. It is the spirit of Greece. It is the sensuality. It is the fact that I allow the fabric and the body to move freely. My Greek heritage comes up in the most unexpected ways through memories, images, dreams. I’m a big fan of architecture and geometry, the mathematics of dance, the arithmetic of music and rhythm.

What one sees as Greek in my work is the freedom. It is the spirit of Greece. It is the sensuality. It is the fact that I allow the fabric and the body to move freely.

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Angelos Bratisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; signature Erotiko dress from his SS15 collection at Teatro Armani inspired by artist Yiannis Moralis, Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prominent proponent of modernism.

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You have been fiercely adamant about not being labeled a designer and would rather be described as an intuitive dressmaker. Why the distinction? I do something that is very traditional. I don’t design, I don’t sketch, I don’t have mood boards or upload anything on a computer. .. I do couture. I work with fabric and the structure of the fabric. I have a mannequin and I drape. I was very privileged to have the best draping teacher in the world - Heroun Peters (Alexander McQueen and John Galliano were his students). I’m an intuitive dressmaker. If you see my clothes on a hanger, they look shapeless. It is the body that lends them the shape. I’m designing for bodies that live and breathe and move and have babies and cross their legs. I design imagining what the dress will look like if you move your arms, what people at the back of the table may notice, if the dress follows your movement when you walk. Is it true that you learned your best “dressmaking secrets” from your mother? I did learn a lot just observing my mother, an extremely talented seamstress. My earliest memories are of my mother’s clients streaming into the house for fittings, and most of them invariably wanted my opinion. My mother knew that I made some pertinent observations and she encouraged me to voice my thoughts. It was the ’80s with big hair and big shoulder pads, and for me it was like an exercise to see how far I could push these conservative ladies out of their comfort zones. That was my lab. I knew, even at a very young age, that I wanted to grow up to be a fashion designer. All my pocket money went on fashion magazines. And I think being raised in small-town Greece gave me the drive to dream and escape into my own imaginary world of fashion and dresses. In July 2011, you won first prize in the “Who Is On next?” competition for emerging fashion designers in Rome organized by AltaRoma and Vogue Italia and joined a select group of young fashion talent invited by Giorgio Armani to show in his Teatro Armani venue. You obviously share Armani’s minimalist fashion sensibilities… It was a singular experience to show my spring/summer 2015 show hosted by Giorgio Armani at the Milan Fashion Week. It felt like entering a sacred ‘avaton’. Armani is an empire. His PR machinery is simply remarkable. For me, Armani is the perfect example of a designer who

Photo: Marco Bertolini

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has deep values. These are the same values that I try to express in my work: femininity and pure elegance without artifice. We both share a taste for purity, but I’d rather focus on the possibilities of ingenious draping and a bias cut to build my creations.

Being raised in small-town Greece gave me the drive to dream and escape into my own imaginary world of fashion and dresses.

How would you describe your style? For me, it’s a process of evolution and technique. But I’d say my style is purism, freedom, sensuality, femininity, classicism. You need to get to know my dresses. And the more you know them, the more you feel comfortable, the more they reveal themselves. There is nothing conceptual. I’m not a minimalist, I’m a purist. My shapes are sometimes cut from a single rectangle of fabric, molded around the body with a single seam. They are fluid.

Greek fashion and style is having “a moment” … but does Greek culture ever really go “out of fashion” in your opinion? The fashion scene is much more interesting than it was ten years ago. Young Greeks who travelled and studied abroad, realise that it’s fashionable to do things with your hands again. In this post-crisis world there is also new awareness that people aren’t going to pay you because you’re ‘amazing’ or because you’ve got facebook followers. You need to get your hands dirty, to communicate with people, to meet your buyers and to create a relationship with your artisans. You need to keep it real. I’m heartened by the energy in Athens’ creative scene. Stores are popping up all over the place. Greeks were obsessed with all things European and American – it is only now that they’ve begun seeking something original, with character, something with craftsmanship. athens insider

Photo: Marco Bertolini

You are all set to open your first store in Mykonos this summer. Tell us more. There is a palpable energy in Mykonos that is hard to describe. Not surprising I guess, as you have Delos right across and the light of Apollon beaming through. People in Mykonos are restless, they cannot sleep, they go out on the beach, they fall in love, they wear their big smiles. Other islands have mellower energies. On Mykonos, you’re overpowered by this vitality and then the wind blows and you’re transported. My first collection in Milan with geometric designs and stripes was inspired by Mykonos. The story was of a girl with her lover in the Cyclades, they make love, she wears his shirt and the wind blows so hard that it is draped by the wind. Beauty happens. And you will be launching your new menswear range at the store? It is not really a full collection but a laboratory of ideas – high-quality, woven fabrics, comfortable but elegant, in just one size. I call the collection Après Plage. Mykonos is also the perfect place to wear my clothes; to let the wind blow through the fabric and let the sun bring out the colours. The clothes, both for men and women are democratically priced and are practical to fold and carry… because on Mykonos, you never know where you’ll end up next.

Two words I treasure: For my work, it’s “effortless” and for my life, it’s “privacy”. I also like the Japanese term “Enso” to express a moment when the mind is free to let the body create. ABOUT ATHENS Where do you go in Athens to feel creatively inspired? To the Benaki Museum and to the Cycladic Museum; on a stroll around the Acropolis; to Blue Bird where my friends play music on Wednesday nights or the old Galaxy bar on Stadiou. The best street style in Athens right now? At Ag. Irinis or even around Syntagma… you see all these skateboarders and all this dynamism… I love youth, the excitement, the freedom. The metro is a great place to observe people too, especially on a Saturday night out. Your favourite new “Athenian Discovery”? I really like the fusion-restaurant Nolan – they dared to do something different when Greeks can be quite content having souvlaki every day, which I’m guilty of too! • ANGELOS BRATIS Mykonos store: 19 Panahrantou, 84600 Mykonos Town. tel: +30 22890.26762 www.angelosbratis.it

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The British magazine Wallpaper tipped you as an exciting young designer to watch and labelled you a sensualist whose languid dresses reveal love and respect for the female form. What kind of pressure did that place on you? It is very easy for a young designer to fall for the hype. You can lose your momentum temporarily until another one comes along. I’m not a young designer any more – I’ve had my brand for 15 years now. I’ve met the mightiest in the fashion business from Anna Wintour and I’ve worked with the likes of Vionnet and Cavalli … but I wouldn’t change what I do for any of them. I’m not trying to impress with technique or hype. I have grown organically, by honing my craft and investing everything into my work, despite my doubts and falls…

Confessions from a Posidonian Insider What’s it really like inside the world’s most high-octane shipping event?

housands of shipping executives from around the globe are about to converge on Athens once again for Posidonia - that biennial whirlwind of lavish parties by the sea, elite sporting events, power networking and top-level think-tanks. Posidonia 2018 officially sets sail from June 4-8 … but for many, the parties and receptions begin in the week or so before. While the high-profile forum is mostly a closed shop, members of the public can attend the Posidonia 5km running event (Sunday, June 3) and also the vast shipping exhibition held throughout the week at the Metropolitan Expo Centre. With the shipping industry still coming out of its recent downturn; it’s a chance for people to let their hair down and put their worries on ice (along with the champagne) for a few feverish days. Amanda Dardanis spoke to one Posidonia veteran to find out exactly what the big deal is (and where the biggest deals get done!).

LET’S GET THIS PARTY STARTED RIGHT ‘This will be my 8th Posidonia Week. It’s hard work but I love it. My preparations for Posidonia usually start a couple of weeks before. I get all my best frocks out. Get them all lined up, along with all my best heels and handbags! The whole international shipping community descends on Athens – in particular the Athenian Riviera. It’s a time for people to re-connect with their clients; to really network; to hand out a lot of business cards (literally thousands change hands!) and to meet new people with the potential in future to do business all round the world. Germans, Norwegians, English, Japanese, Chinese – you really get everyone. You lay the groundwork here, but the real deals are done later on - after you get back from the golf courses and the yacht parties. There’s the huge Posidonia Exhibition, which is like an absolutely vast

“show and tell” of all the latest shipping happenings and technology, out near the airport. There are about a thousand exhibits from everyone from shipyards to brokers to banks to engine makers to ship registers to rope makers to oil traders! People do have a mosey on down there during the day to take a look around. But the thing that really makes Posidonia are the parties. STARS & BARS In the past, the receptions were extremely extravagant. If you go back 6 years ago, celebrations went on for about 3 weeks. But some owners have become a bit more sensible and said, “Okay, maybe we shouldn’t really be spending one million euros on a party.” Some of the functions are still very lavish, like the Clarksons event, which is traditionally held out by the Astir pool for about 600-700 people (this year, with the new Four Seasons hotel not yet open, they will split the event into several smaller

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parties, I’m told). My first Posidonia event 16 years ago was Clarksons. They staged the most incredible laser show that I’ve ever seen over the water and the champagne flowed all night. At the last Clarkson’s party, they ran out of booze when about 2,000 gatecrashers turned up. Aegean Petroleum are also known for putting on one of the best Posidonia bashes in town. In 2014, they had synchronized swimmers and Antonio Remos singing. And some of the big ship owners have thrown parties where they have their yacht parked outside the venue. During the official Posidonia Week, there’s a lot going on every night. There are parties in Piraeus, at the Yacht Club; loads going on at Island in Varkiza; at Asteras in Glyfada. You do have to pick and choose what you’re going to go to or you’ll be exhausted half way through the week. Marinakis (the shipping tycoon Evangelos Marinakis of Capital Ship Management) is another of the really hot tickets to get hold of. During a recent Posidonia, they had dancing girls and Gloria Gaynor belting out classics at Balux Prive. A lot of the parties are held around this part of Athens so you can literally spend the night hopping from one party to the next. Although rumour has it that some of the big shipping companies will move their parties to Stavros Niarchos this year. Lots of companies hold Open Houses as well. Some of the shipping offices are very impressive; really beautiful, and they open them up for the day. THE GOLDEN TICKETS But actually, the best networking is done at the smaller parties. Restaurants like Rafale (in Vouliagmeni). Or exclusive sushi fests at Nobu. I can’t mention names, but at some of those smaller, more intimate gatherings of a dozen or so, you can sit down and eat, or have a cocktail, with some of the world’s top ship owners. So if you get a ticket to one of those, you may actually meet a real shipping tycoon. athens insider

comes. International visitors love it here. They have a lot of goodwill towards Greece and they really appreciate the Athens Riviera. And because it’s only held every second year, it doesn’t feel like “same old, same old”, like it might if it was an annual event. PLAYING THE GAME People are generally fairly well-behaved at the official receptions. Especially the Greeks, who tend not to over-indulge anyway. You might let your hair down afterwards by going to a bar with a smaller group, or on to the bouzoukia. The whole sporting calendar aspect of Posidonia has also become more of a “thing” in recent years. There’s the Golfing and Soccer Tournaments; the Racing Event. The Yachting Cup especially is always extremely competitive. Some of the big owners decide “we will win this year” and hire professionals to crew for them. People get very excited about the yacht race. It is exhausting sometimes going to 3 parties in the one night and then having to get up and go to the office the next morning. And you do see a lot of the same people everywhere. But at the same time, it’s really nice to feel part of a community - and really fun to be on the inside of it all.• Posidonia International Shipping Exhibition 2018 officially runs from June 4-8. For more information on Posidonia events such as the Metropolitan Expo Centre and the Posidonia Run, visit posidonia-events.com

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You do have to pick and choose what you’re going to go to or you’ll be exhausted half way through the week.

Or at least have a chance to sit next to someone very senior. And that’s going to get you more work. People do jockey for the best tickets during Posidonia. Everyone’s trying to get to these parties. The week before, I’m suddenly very popular! Friends call me out of the blue. They’ll say, “I think I’m going to come to your party and bring my friend, is that okay?” They’ll literally invite themselves! A lot of parties do seem to be on lock down now since the crisis. For instance, last time, Aegean sent a ‘gold bar’ in the post and you had to scan in a code that then told you how to RSVP. Capital is strictly barcoded, and Clarksons release a secret code just before the event to stop party crashers. In recent years, there’s definitely been a paring back of the scale of events. There was some very bad press during the worst of the crisis. Which to me was unjustified. People in shipping work extremely hard. And so they throw a party every two years for all the people who help them. But I would say that this year, for the first time in recent years, most ship owners are a bit more ‘cautiously optimistic’ now that there have been some green shoots of recovery appearing in the shipping markets. One thing you’ll always notice is the way that the prices in all the hotels soar during Posidonia. “Posidonia Prices”, we call them. The lucky people are staying down in Vouliagmeni because the hotels there are booked two years before! All the Riviera hotels are packed. Posidonia is a big deal because everybody

Mr. Hospitality He’s been dubbed The Greek Gatsby for his glamorous lifestyle and stellar A-list parties. But it’s in changing the shape and flavour of Athens’ entertainment landscape that Chrysanthos Panas will leave his true legacy, as Amanda Dardanis discovers.

Island Club & Restaurant opens for its 2018 season on May 3 with a new venue Grand Ciel, an event space with capacity for 2,500 people and a small private beach. www.islandclubrestaurant.gr

Photo by Will Feuer

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empire of high-end ventures invested with a European sophistication that has successfully lured an international crowd. Mr. Panas has also been credited with inventing the Athens Riviera tag. His latest passion project – in tandem with championing his beloved Athenian coastline - is to create a new high-end, year-round neighbourhood around Voukourestiou (with the storied Zonars as its hub), reminiscent of “the good old Athens” of the 60s and 70s. It helps that the Panas Group already has “serious skin in the game”: the City Bistro, Bar de Theatre and the Foyer inside Pallas theater are also part of the Panas portfolio. ‘I strongly believe that Kolonaki is starting to lose its appeal,’ says Mr Panas, as we cut through the elegant City Link “Spyros Milios” arcade. ‘Here, we have the theatre district, the beautiful buildings and arcades like this one which is busy day and night. We have Hermes, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dior and Greek brands like Kessarris, Vourakis and many upcoming arrivals. So, in a way, it is becoming the new Kolonaki.’ Here, Mr Panas talks to Athens Insider about the city he loves and his plans for its future. ABOUT YOU You’re often credited with putting the Athens Riviera on the map. What is your special connection with this part of the city? The Athens Riviera is a very beloved area of mine as Vouliagmeni is my birthplace. In summer, we used to vacation in Kavouri,

swim, do sports at the Nautical Club of Vouliagmeni (NOV) and attend the parties there. I’ve felt the special energy of the coastline since I was very young. Even at Astir Beach, you can find sacred ruins so we know that in ancient times too, the whole area was obviously important. You and your brother Spyros are the visionaries behind some of Athens’ most famous venues – Island, Zonars, Salon de Bricolage. What was your first entrepreneurial effort? In 1990, my brother and I opened the Nautical Club of Vouliagmeni’s very first bar – and without telling our parents! I was 20 years old studying Business Administration and Spyros was 22, studying at the Technical University of Athens. Our initial goal was to share our joy for entertainment with our friends. So we opened the bar and called it Island (from the very beginning the name was Island!) and without knowing anything about business or nightlife, it was a huge success. We wanted to bring the vibe of Mykonos and the Cycladic islands to the Athens coastline. Four years later when my father died, we decide to invest in building Island in Varkiza. Since then, Panas Sophisticated Hospitality has created exceptional entertainment facilities that have set the trend. Do you believe the Athens Riviera has reached its full potential yet? The Athens Riviera still has huge potential and the Panas Group are making constant efforts in order for it to take its deserved

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ccompanying Chrysanthos Panas for a stroll around his Athens stomping ground is such fun. It’s rather like shadowing the Mayor. Or a visiting celebrity. As we walk past Zonars on Voukourestiou, where artfully stylish types are enjoying the first flush of March sunshine, we’re stopped every few steps. Friends and regulars all dispense warm salutations to this popular impresario who is the entrepreneurial force behind some of Athens’ most iconic and ground-breaking venues: Island Club & Restaurant in Varkiza, Greece’s first members bar, Salon de Bricolage in Kolonaki, and, of course, the queen of them all, Zonars. Being Chrysanthos Panas must be quite a lot of fun too, one imagines. Last night, he hosted a private Parisianstyle party at Zonars for the pop star George Mazonakis for his 46th birthday. Tomorrow, he is jetting off with his family to Gstaad for a long weekend on the slopes. Meanwhile, a voyeuristic peek at his instagram feed shows him mingling with the likes of Robert Pattison, Joanna Lumley, Keira Knightley, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carla Bruni, Jeremy Irons and the designer Valentino, who is a close friend. Given the exalted circles he mixes in, one might expect grandiose airs. But in fact, Mr Panas is one of the most genuine and hard-working ambassadors for Brand Athens and the Athenian coastline that you’ll encounter. Over the past three decades, along with his brother Spyros, the two siblings have forged a formidable entertainment

place on the world stage. The Four Seasons opening this year (on the Astir site) will change the hospitality game. Not just here in Athens but in the whole of Greece. Ten years ago, I would invite people to come to Athens by sea and they would say: “Why on earth would I bring a boat to Athens?” And when they came, they were amazed. So that’s our goal: To educate people that Athens is not just a city. It’s a coastline too. The most memorable party you’ve ever been to? There are three that stand out the most. The party we had for Meryl Streep and the cast of “Mamma Mia” where we hosted her friends and former school mates from NY and Boston. Tommy Hilfiger’s party around the launch of his European stores. And the small surprise party for Valentino where Princess Mafalda (Bulgaria) performed for him. Do you have a personal mantra that underpins both your business and life philosophy? The best is yet to come. ISLAND No other Athenian venue has the “wow factor” of Island. But wasn’t it a risky move establishing such an ambitious project in Varkiza back in 1994 when it was still considered a remote destination? Nobody knew back then that you could come to Athens and experience the feel of the islands too. But the magical energy of Island’s location made me confident that the venue was going to overcome all expectations and become a high-end world-class destination. From the start, we sought to promote the Greek style, you know, not to bring in Palm trees or camels! We are the only capital in Europe to have this potential for a summer vacation as well as a cultural experience. Can you indulge us by namedropping a few more celebrities whom you’ve hosted at Island? Jean Paul Gaultier, Pierce Brosnan, Bruce Willis, Ethan Hawke, Dsquared, Hugh Jackman and many others. ABOUT ATHENS Can you tell us what you hope to achieve with your #AthensRevival urban campaign? The #AthensRevival campaign aims to revive the city center of Athens back to its original glory. We want to establish a really strong and attractive city center with quality places that will be a worldwide

destination for visitors 365 days a year. I want to keep the people who would usually go to Gazi here in this neighbourhood! How would you rate the nightlifeentertainment scene of Athens compared to other cities like Rome or Madrid? The nightlife of Athens is the best. It combines upscale restaurants and restaurants with local character with entertainment venues with live music such as bouzoukia (not my cup of tea but a unique style of entertainment) and wonderful European-style night clubs and bars. The competitive advantage of Athens is that you can enjoy city life and also have the feeling of being on an island since the Athens Riviera is so close. What is your vision for Zonars? For it to become the new landmark of Athens and to be characterized by its contemporary, sophisticated and European character. In the 60s and 70s, Athens was buzzing, and Zonars used to be the place where you’d see Melina Mercouri and Vasisilis Fotopoulos (who won the Oscar for Zorba) or Leonard Cohen… and we want to do this again. Although it’s a landmark, I don’t want to connect Zonars only with the past; I want it to have a new life. We try to attract people who are not just well-known but well-known for their aesthetics and the arts; people like Marina Abramovich (who is a patron).

TO THE FUTURE... What next for the Panas Group? This summer, we will organize transport in speed boats to and from Island, and nearby resorts. And maybe we will look at bringing Salon de Bricolage from Kolonaki to this neighbourhood. We also have two more villas, with one bedroom each (The Gallery & Residence), so Island, along with the new Four Seasons is becoming a resort. Any plans to expand overseas? About eight years ago, we started collaborating with a number of members only clubs in London and other countries like Spain, Germany, Singapore and Canada, which is a thing that we are still evolving. We are definitely looking at doing more abroad. But we want to do it properly and we haven’t decided yet which of our concepts yet to export. •

BUSINESS What is the most essential ingredient for any successful entertainment enterprise? I have always believed that business should be integrated with culture and so we aim to create venues that elevate souls rather than just scattering emotions. An entertainment venue can cultivate new trends; it can contribute to reshaping culture, as long as the people behind the venue are cultured as well. There have been a lot of headlines about a Greek recovery. But has this filtered down yet to people’s spending habits? I believe that the change is coming from the tourists who are coming here from abroad. I would say that many Greeks are still holding back and are not in a great place. What lessons has the financial crisis taught you from a business point of view? That when someone is original, innovative and business-oriented, all kind of obstacles can be overcome including any crisis whatsoever.

Zonars then and now...

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Point α: A bar, a view, a story There are bars that quench your desire for something giddy and new, and then there are bars who combine their distinctive concoctions with an intoxicating view, but few weave a tale of their own that etch themselves permanently into your repertoire of experiences – Point α at the Herodion Hotel qualifies in the latter category.

Point α, Hotel Herodion, Rovertou Gallou 4, Athens. Book ahead to reserve dinner. Table seatings at 7 pm and 9.30 pm. Tel: 210. 923.6832 athens insider

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he bar itself is a consistent cue of the proximity it shares with Athens’ best known landmarks – coasters and napkins have the numbers 289 and 85 marked on them like some secret code to remind us of the distance (in metres!) from the Acropolis and the new museum respectively. It is a fun trivia that transforms itself as a clever marketing strategy as well as a brand identity for Point α because here, you don’t need to crane your neck to see the sights or peer through a blurred silhouette of the famous temple – the Acropolis is smack in front of your face! While the setting is magical, the design elements at Point α get full marks too. A terrace with a wooden deck, subtle lighting and a casually elegant atmosphere, Point α is perfect for a drink to watch the sun loom over the temple before it turns into a fiery red ball or for a quiet moonlit dinner. The bar also serves as a gallery showcasing some of Greece’s most talented artists and sculptors, scouted from the neighbouring El. Marneri and Technohoros galleries. For those who’d rather nurse their drinks as veteran barflies, watching awardwinning bartender Alexandros Previstas play alchemist, the high bar-stools prove to be a perfect perch to observe the sublime skills required to place a delicately-seared tapas on a chilled Greek-inspired cocktail. If you’d like to linger a little longer to savour chefs Manolis Mavrigiannakis and Marios Pirpiridis’s scrumptiously innovative summer menu, we’d highly recommend the moussaka with a twist, seabass ceviche with ginger lokum delight from Syros, Asia Minor style stuffed tomatos and peppers or the delightfully succulent slow-cooked lamb. Point α is a great excuse to play tourist for an evening to re-discover the city and to indulge in some serious story-telling! •

Pangrati: The Authentic Athens New resident of the Pangrati neighbourhood, Will Feuer, takes you inside this upand-coming creative stronghold thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s filled with traditional cafĂŠs, creative bars and age-old parks.

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Tune-in to the Real Pulse of Athens Visitors are rewarded with the feeling of having stumbled upon a neighbourhood as green as Athens’ outer suburbs, as eclectic in style as downtown and, most of all, with a genuinely authentic Athenian pulse. Front and center of Pangrati is the unmistakable Panathenaic stadium, also known as Kalimarmaro, or literally “good marble,” stadium. It is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. The Panathenaic stadium, though reconstructed for the first modern Olympics in 1896, is the site of the ancient Panathanaic games, a grandiose display of ancient Athenian wealth, athletic prowess and cultural excellence. While beneath the stadium is a museum commemorating each modern Olympic competition, at the top of the stadium, you’ll encounter a wonderful view overlooking the city. If you want a truly local twist, head behind the stadium to Kleitomachou street to slip through the fence and find a labyrinth of running trails filled with locals both behind the stadium and adjacent to it on a large wooded hill. Hike to the top for one of the best views in Athens, overlooking the stadium, the national gardens, the Parthenon and Lycabettus hill. From this vantage point, the serenity of ancient Athens is on full display above the bustling scurry of the modern metropolis. Created in 1908 at the intersection of Eftyxidou and Spyrou Merkouri Streets, Alsos Park was created by locals who decided to plant a number of pine trees in the area. It wasn’t until twenty years later that the municipality of Athens would assume responsibility for the space. It once held a small zoo and a theatre with free performances for the community. Today, it is a gorgeous garden, mainly used as a gathering ground for backgammon players. athens insider

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ar enough removed that tourists don’t wander here, Pangrati is filled with locals going about their daily lives. Modern office spaces and boutique clothing stores collide with decades-old cafés and restaurants that double as traditional bouzouki venues. Not to mention it is home to a number of Athens’ best natural spots including running trails that overlook the city, Athens’ first cemetery and Alsos Park. In recent years, rent prices have plummeted since the economic crisis, creating an opportunity for daring restaurants, bars and art galleries to swoop in, breathing new life into now trendy Pangrati. It is here that one witnesses the struggle of Greece to negotiate its ancient past with a modern future. The first study-abroad program in Greece for English-speaking undergraduate students, College Year in Athens (CYA), was established in 1962 in Pangrati, right next to the stadium. For the past five decades, CYA has brought thousands of American students like me to the neighbourhood who live among and with locals, creating a truly cosmopolitan feel. Of course, this also means Irish pubs, Asian street food and Dominoes are readily available in the area.

A Creative Culture For those with their minds on Modern Greek culture, there is no shortage of choices in Pangrati. A cosy, two-room gallery on Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue, Art Zone 42 has consistently impressed visitors with its thought-provoking exhibits and artist discussions since its establishment in 2007. Looking for a more hands-on experience? Chalk of the Town offers in-house workshops to teach styles and encourage creativity. They also sell artisanal chalk, paint and professional stencils for those set on doing it themselves. And just behind Art Zone 42 rests one of Pangrati’s most flourishing areas, Proskopon Square, or literally “Scout’s” Square. There’s no shortage of cafés and tavernas here. Settle in with a book during the day at No Name café and watch the kids play football. At night, grab a drink from any of the surrounding bars and join the rest of Pangrati in the center of the square for a raucous time. Proskopon Square also lays claim to Lexikopoleio, one of the best bookstores in Athens, brimming over with texts of many languages. Of course you’ll find plenty of Greek literature here, but also the latest releases from around the world, along with an abundance of children’s books. A Suburb of Gastronomic Proportions Meanwhile, Scout’s Square is also home to one of the primary cultural institutions of Athens: The Magic Flute Restaurant, or Magemenos Avlos. The taverna looks,

I’m told, as it did in its heyday of the 1960s when famous Greek politicians, writers and artists came here almost daily. A delicious dinner is always served with a show where the house singer takes the stage with her band to the delight of all the regulars. On Sunday evenings, they serve an all-you-can-eat buffet for 22 euros. It is a nostalgic environment of dimly lit candles and wine-induced “Opas”! For those looking to relax among treelined cafés, there are temptations on every corner of Pangrati. Head up to Empedokleous Street by the central Varnava Square to enter a portal to the past, Superfly Café. Inside, one will find retro galore, from pinball machines and board games to an antique train circling the bar. Like so many of the Pangrati cafés, Superfly transforms from relaxed café to lively bar as the sun falls out of sight. Another homely spot is Pournarousa Kafeneio on Effranoros Street. Decked out in carved wooden chairs, a sleek bar and framed copies of contemporary art, this is a sophisticated place to grab a coffee and get to work or relax with a beer. Of course Niko and his archaic beard tops off the intellectual vibes here and makes everyone feel at home! Head over to Kekkos on Eratosthenous street next to the stadium for a warm welcome to the neighbourhood. Established in 1963, this family-owned spot is a neighbourhood hit, serving up an array of homemade meals, ready to go sandwiches and plenty of sweets. It’s

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no wonder they’ve attracted an extended family of friendly regulars who linger until closing. But the true gem here is the people who run the place, Demetrios and Kristina! One consequence of Pangrati’s rich history is a strong presence of Kafenions. These are traditional Greek hangouts where elderly men typically drink, chat, gamble and enjoy life the way Zorba the Greek would! While not officially banned, women will typically not be found here. This is a remnant of truly traditional Greek life. When Evening Falls … Fear not! Pangrati is not all culture and cafés. Almost all of the cafés in the area, like Superfly, turn to bars at night; chief among them is none other than Chelsea Hotel, one of the best pubs in Pagrati, and historically the drinking den of many writers, musicians, artists and actors. Dreadlocked heads, blacked out clothes funky glasses and hats, Chelsea’s brings all types together. Blasting an all-night amalgam of music from hip-hop to jazz, Chelsea’s has earned the chagrin of its neighbors. Almost every night it’s so packed that guests spill over into the street until the wee hours of the morning, only to sit down with a coffee at the same table as the sun rises. Stop by to try their homebrewed raki! And if you find yourself a bit peckish, right next-door is what may be the best souvlaki in Athens, (it almost certainly has the best fries) – Elvis. Decked out with pictures of the famous American rocker, and even one chef who fashions his hair after the original greaser, Elvis works in tandem with Chelsea’s bringing Plastira Square to life, day and night. With the recent rise of the neighbourhood, a few new bars have popped up as well. Flamingo, with its unmistakable pink neon flamingo sign, opened up a year ago on Effranoros Street in a newly constructed corner building with industrial vibes and floor to ceiling windows. For those willing to shell out some more cash, Flamingo serves up tasty cocktails all day, and a savoury brunch in the mornings. Continue up the street to Profitou Ilia Square on busy Ymittou Street and arrive at Monsieur Cannibale, a decadent French-style brasserie overlooked by a towering church at the religious and cultural heart of Pangrati. Arrive early in the morning for a coffee or late at night for some flavorful cocktails and company. Monsieur Cannibale serves up pizzas, salads, paninis, bagels and pastries all prepared in-house, and 11:00 – 17:00 on the weekends they rock a mean brunch that includes fried eggs in focaccia Greco,

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jacket potatoes with bacon, steak eggs and pastrami calf. But really it’s the food that stands above all else in Pangrati. At the top of the list is undoubtedly Greece’s first two-Michelin starred restaurant, Spondi, located on Pyrronos Street by Varnava Square. Established in 1996, Spondi remains in Pangrati and is considered one of, if not the, best restaurants in Greece. There is an elegant courtyard for warm nights, and the interior is surrounded by stone walls with smart lighting. The menu is a blend of French and Mediterennean cuisine conjured up seasonally by master chef Angelos Lantos. For a more laid back and cheaper feel, Pangrati offers some fantastic burgers and pizza as well. Mystic Pizza offers a diverse selection of pizza pies from anchovies and capers to the more Greek olives and feta. They prioritise health and have strong choices for vegetarians and vegans in a country that is notoriously carnivorous. Then on busy Empedokleous Street, filled with bar-cafes, rests Colibri, an Athenian’s best shot at getting an American-grade burger. From classic to barbecue and even Hawaiian style, Colibri offers plenty of options, and none will disappoint. With a small space and limited seating, there might be a wait, but don’t worry. You can sit at the next-door bar and sip on a cold one while awaiting your order. If Pangrati’s recent evolution is any indication of the future, it will be a prime neighbourhood for years to come. I only hope it doesn’t change too much as there is little room for improvement in this simultaneously energetic and peaceful pocket of Athens. •

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Archelaou, Pangratiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creative HQ This narrow strip, just off the bustling Vas. Konstantinou street, until recently, was pock-marked with run-of-the-mill shops. Now a hipster hangout with cool restaurants, boutiques, design stores and cafes, its transformation is all the more striking as it is marked by a palpable sense of solidarity amongst its young entrepreneurs to make Archelaou a very desirable address indeed!

Hallelujah

Studiomateriality

Sporaki Irish Rock Pub

Tre Sorelle

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t is hard to believe that a mere 90 years ago, Pangrati, formerly known as Vatrahonissi, was an island on the banks of the river Ilissos, – and as its name suggests – inhabited mainly by frogs! The river, which used to flow along the path where the Vas. Constantinou road now runs, determined the eastern boundary of the city of Athens. While some of those grand plans of cementing a river might have been lamentable, its recent, more organic metamorphosis is breathing new life into this nondescript street. From cool boutiques such as Hallelujah that stock beautifully crafted leather pouches, clothes, jewellery and accessories fronted by the spirited Eleftheria Domenikou and the masterful tailoring at Jo’s inimitable, bohemian-chic Jujudekimono store (so-called after the Swahili word for good luck charms!) further down, watch out Kolonaki, this is where the fashion action is. Bringing their own brand of cool is studiomateriality who design and conceptualise stores and have the wickedest collection of scarves, beach towels, light boxes and cushion covers. The whole street is dotted with inviting eateries and watering holes, done up in minimalist shades of apple green and duckegg blue. OhhBoy with its delightfully uplifting décor and freshly-cut sunflower bouquets serves smoothies, guilt-free burgers with beetroot coleslaw and real American cheesecakes – and of course, coffee and terrific wifi! Tre Sorelle is a charming Italian restaurant right next to Niko’s Kafeneio, a pit-stop for artists and intellectuals for a morning dose of caffeine philosophy and existential semantics. Musique Café is a verdant hideout that serves Naxian treats and moreish risotti, and comes alive to the sounds of jazz, soul and funk in the evenings. Mint just across, is a cosy bar with small, healthy treats, while Trigono has a nostalgic ‘60s vibe to it. Sporaki Irish Rock Pub is a bar you’re likely to adopt as your fave hangout when in the neighbourhood – vinyl music, Irish cocktails and beer on tap, eclectic fleamarket décor and a choice of 60 different teas and infusions -what’s not to like? Small 8 located just across from the Skrow theatre, is another inviting all-day bar. And though it’s not on the same street, it would be amiss not to mention two other outstanding eateries in the area: Mavro Provato on Arrianou for terrific valuefor-money meals and Aerostato at Plateia Proskopon for its unhurried charms. • Written by Sudha Nair-Iliades , with valuable input by Lela Arvaniti.

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Jujudekimono

OhhBoy

Mint

Hallelujah studio, Archelaou 3. Tel. 210.323.4891 Studiomateriality, Archelaou 32. Tel. 211.407.2751 OhhBoy, Archelaou & Vas. Georgiou 22. Tel. 211.183.8340 Musique Café, Archelaou and Arrianou 37. Tel. 210.723.8900 Tre Sorelle, Archelaou 19. Tel. 211.407.2171 JujudeKokimo, Archelaou 20. Tel. 210.722.0021 Mint, Archelaou 30. Tel. 6937.155.277 Sporaki Irish Pub, Archelaou 11, Tel. 694 447 9168

The Street Romeo of Athens His bold and restless neo-gothic graffiti ballads evoke a powerful emotional response and have also been instrumental in transforming Athens’ contemporary urban canvas. Yet, the enigmatic street artist known as Sonke famously shuns interviews and loathes having his photograph published, preferring instead that his melancholic, almost fairytale-like creations speak for him: on social themes such as political corruption, violence and what he sees as the culture of “hollow luxury”. Naturally, this aversion to the spotlight only stokes his allure and our curiosity. In the wake of Sonke’s recent exhibition of 15 new works on wood and canvas (displayed at the just-opened The Art Dose art space in Glyfada), Insider gives you the rundown on this elusive 33-year-old native Athenian artist who has charmed so many visitors to our capital with his black and white “princesses of the street”.

Untitled. 130X154. Mixed media on canvas

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Sometimes Sonke’s girls are depressed, lonely and sad. Other times, they appear happy and playful.

What’s his real name? Alekos Skoutariotis. We’re not sure exactly why he goes by Sonke but the name has German origins (“little boy or “son of”) and connotes someone who is “spiritually intense” and can “sting or charm”.

When did he first start graffiti-ing? At the age of 12, Sonke started exploring graffiti, painting railway stations and walls in the neighbourhood of Marousi where he grew up in an attempt to leave his mark in the world.

Who’s That Girl? The inspiration behind Sonke’s famous curvy girl with the big eyes and preRaphaelite waves? It all stems from a lost love apparently. After a sad breakup from his girlfriend, Sonke entered a long period of depression, then started painting flowers in the streets of Athens in the places where they used to go: as a sign to her of how much he loved and missed her. Soon, these girls replaced the flowers,his “muses” as he calls them: princesses with delicate hearts and an immense spiritual world that onlookers are invited to explore. Sometimes Sonke’s girls are depressed, lonely and sad. Other times, they appear happy and playful.

Did he ever go to art school or have any formal experience? Yes. He has studied Graphic, Applied and Fine Arts, attended a range of courses worldwide and has worked as a teacher of drawing at the Cultural Centre of the Municipality of Marousi.

Will he ever abandon his street princesses? Never, he claims. “They are my (and people’s) only hope. I strongly believe that love will finally solve all the problems, even if a revolution against the people who boycott it should take place first.”

Has Sonke ever been arrested for his “outlaw” creations? Sonke has actually been caught several times by the police, and once went to jail for two days. Although lately, private shop owners and cafes around Athens have taken a very positive view to hosting his art. In one such incident, a young woman who realised that Sonke was painting on her house’s wall begged him to draw her cat!

Where else has Sonke displayed his work? Sonke’s distinctive graffiti creations are also found on walls in Paris, Berlin and other European cities. He has participated in numerous solo and group exhibitions in Greece and abroad (France, Italy, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland and America); while his paintings received critical praise at Art Athina 2016. Many of his works are owned by private collectors and galleries worldwide. •

Where does he live? These days, Sonke divides his time between Athens, Paris and Brussels.

Why does Sonke favour the medium of graffiti over more conventional (and legal!) artistic expressions? Sonke believes that street art is above all, a form of resistance and selfexpression as well as a creative method of communicating with the general public in a forum that is much more open than a typical art gallery. athens insider

With thanks to Tina Kamilaki for sharing her fascinating insights into Sonke. A number of Sonke’s paintings from his last exhibition are still available to buy at The Art Dose, Metaxa 33, Glyfada, tel: +30 210.968.0505, theartdose.com

Life Fighter, 2015. 188X40. Mixed media on wood

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EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SONKE

a family affair

Nikos Katsaros Photographer . Nou-pou.gr

Mirina Tsantili comes from a fashion lineage thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nearly one hundred years old. The Tsantili name has been connected to the rag trade in Greece since 1919, when the family first started out in textiles; evolving by the 1970s into an elegant purveyor of ready-made collections with a stylish European emphasis. Mirina, 23 years old, who recently opened her eponymous boutique in Glyfada, shares her city and style secrets with Insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Krysta Foteinopoulou.

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When did the fashion “bug” first bite you? Since my school days when I used to travel with my mother in France and Italy in order to attend different fashion trade shows and place orders for our stores in Athens. In the meantime, I also used to work in the family business during the summer breaks. So as soon as I finished school, I went on to study at Istituto Marangoni, one of the best Fashion universities in Paris, where I got a B.Sc degree in Fashion Business, a specialized course based on the strategy and business function of a fashion company. What was your first gig in the fashion industry? My first real job in the fashion industry was during my second academic year, within Paris Fashion Week (2015), where I contributed in the organisation and set up of the shows of some great fashion houses such as Vievienne Westwood, Anthony Vaccarello and Hussein Chalayan. It was one of the most valuable experiences which lasted for three (fashion) seasons, up until my graduation. At the same time I worked at Azzedine Alaia’s showroom for the S/S 16’ collection, where I had to make the presentation of the new collection and assist buyers to place their orders.

de Maigret. She elevates a simple look into her own and creates a stylish image by simply adding a strong piece. YOU & ATHENS Which area of Athens do you live in and what do you see from your balcony? I live in Kolonaki, from where I see the Lycabettus Hill. What do you love doing most in your free time in Athens? Walking around the historical centre discovering beautiful hidden spots and cute little shops. There’s always something new to explore. Somewhere in Athens where you find creative inspiration? Inside the charming Athenian stoas or arcades. “Stoa Emboron” and “Stoa Nikoloudi” represent two of my favorite and most inspiring places that keep me travelling back to the charm and beauty of old times. Can you recommend a place to take visitors for an always fabulous meal? Base Grill (Konstantinopoleos Ave 64, Peristeri). Try out the grilled picanha sirloin and the fries with eggs on top!

The best spot in Athens for a drink with friends? Tiki bar (Falirou 15, Makriyianni). Super funky decoration and delicious cocktails: ask for a custom-made one! Your favourite beach or swimming spot in Athens? The coastline of Sounio. Apart from the crystal water and nice beaches, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the Temple of Poseidon and the endless blue of the Aegean Sea while resting on the beach. Priceless. Your favourite new Athens “discovery”? Tuk Tuk! A super cosy and new Thai street food cafe in the heart of Koukaki (Veikou 40). Order the Phad Thai and Massaman curry. Finally, can you describe Athens in 3 adjectives… Endless. Seductive. Dynamic. • Visit Tsantili’s Athens boutiques at: Kanari 3, Kolonaki, tel: +30 210.324.1411; Kyprou 64, Glyfada, tel: +30 210.894.4538

The one item in my wardrobe that I cannot live without… My white v-neck Uniqlo t-shirt…(and grey and black!) Who is your favourite style icon? The French international model Caroline athens insider

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How do you think Greece’s fashion industry in 2018 compares with other countries you have visited? What are our best strengths? Women in Greece are up to date with current fashion trends. I think that the Greek fashion business keeps up really well with the international industry there is great variety of both foreign and domestic labels. Apart from our heritage, which is a great source of inspiration, we have the advantage of the long summer season, on which designers should start focusing more.

Nikos Katsaros Photographer . Nou-pou.gr

What is the best lesson that your father Alexis Tsantilis taught you about the fashion business? The business of fashion is about the manipulation of one´s senses. If you manage to manipulate the senses of the consumer, then you can make money. If you let your own senses control you, then you may lose a lot of money.

6 Great Outings for

TEENAGERS IN ATHENS Athens, we all know, is rich with historical and cultural attractions, making it a choice destination for family trips to Greece. But what about that hardest to please agegroup: the teenager? Ethel Dilouambaka scouts out six fun activities in the capital, guaranteed to turn their frowns upside down.

#CITY LIFE_Athens for Teens

MG Laser Tag

Limba Rage Room

Have you ever heard of rage rooms? These unique venues offering the most straightforward stress relief treatment are all the rage (pun intended) at the moment. Located in Psyrri, Limba Rage Room welcomes visitors and allows them to release some built-up tension from school, exams and just life in general very cheaply. Or simply just have some fun smashing things up. No need to be cautious here, everything can be broken and prices start at 5 euros for 8 bottles. Gloves, protective gear and visors are provided and visitors can stay locked in the room as long as they want to undisturbed. Open every day from 14.00 to 22.00. Pittaki 6, Psyrri, tel: +30 211.406.5700, find them on Facebook athens insider

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The ultimate update of the traditional childhood game hide and seek, laser tag is a fun activity that your teen and their friends can enjoy together. Thankfully, MG Laser Tag, located between the metro stations of Eleonas and Egaleo, comes to the rescue with their infrared technology that makes it safe for everyone. Covering 850 square meters and featuring a multiroom with arcade games and air hockey tables, it is the perfect entertainment venue where everyone, from 7 to 77 years can have a bit of fun. Requiring motor skills and quick-thinking abilities with a bit of action, laser tag is pitched for everyone to enjoy. Perfect for small groups and birthday parties. Kifisou Ave 32 & Ieras Odou, Egaleo, tel: + 30 210.531.5803, 6984.108327, mglasertag.gr

Great Escape Rooms

For those who enjoy a bit of mental gymnastics in their down time, escape rooms are the perfect recreational release. With a series of original rooms with different themes such as the circus, Guantanamo, Survivor or an NCISinspired perfect crime room, Great Escape Rooms will keep your teens busy for a few hours. Intriguing puzzles and plots (many from their favourite movies and franchises), some involving performances and cryptic clues, are designed to get the adrenalin flowing. We guarantee theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be clamouring to sign up for an encore. Lepeniotou 12, Psyrri, tel: +30 213.035.4432, greatescape.gr

Karting Center

Lure the kids out of the house and away from their screens with a fun afternoon at Karting Center Agios Kosmas, where they can recreate all the fun they are having playing Mario Kart in real life. Opened since 2011, Karting Center is located in Elliniko and is set along the coast, offering fantastic views over the gulf. But the fun part comes from the exhilaration of driving karts located two centimeters off the ground at high speeds. Fun for any daredevil and speed enthusiast, kart races are a great way to have fun and make unforgettable memories during the break with your kids. Poseidonos Ave 26, Elliniko, tel: +30 6944.655274, kartingcenter.gr

#CITY LIFE_Athens for Teens

Athens Paintball Village

There’s something irresistibly fun about getting your hands dirty, right? So why not treat the kids to some messy sessions of paintball? Athens Paintball Village is located in Koropi, near the Eleftherios Venizelos Airport and comprises two paintball fields with building sites, cars and a Hollywood-style movie set. The facilities include a café where parents can enjoy some refreshments while the younglings are having a blast. Laughs guaranteed! Spirou Davari, Koropi, tel: +30 6945.150273, pbvillage.gr, find them on Facebook

Balux Café – The House Project is definitely a one-of-a-kind café and restaurant where everyone, from teens to adults and even children, can indulge in some chill time, while taking in the stunning sea views. This spacious beach house-style venue is set up with vast dining rooms, a playground and a living room area where guests can enjoy drinks and food. The highlight for teens is undeniably the playroom area, equipped with board games, a pool table and a flat screen TV where they can lounge about and watch their favorite TV shows on super-sized floor pillows. Just like being at home. Only better. Poseidonos Ave 58, Asteras Glyfadas Complex, tel: +30 210.898.3577, baluxcafe.com

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Balux Café – The House Project

Greece is a Bestseller!

new page has been turned for Athens as our city assumes its place in the cultural spotlight as “Book Capital of the World”. For one year, the written word will take centre-stage in Athens throughout a richly stimulating calendar of over 250 events under the theme: “Athens 2018 – Books Everywhere!” The year-long celebration – which kicked off on April 23 (World Book and Copyright Day) and coincides with a resurgence in popularity for the printed novel – aims to build bridges between the world of literature and other forms of artistic expressions such as dance, theatre and film. With this in mind, expect a vivid and mobile patchwork of inclusive and innovative events across the city, such as The Engine team who will scatter across the city, between September 4 and October 3, to surprise citizens with readings in unexpected public locations in order to build “small dream-like universes” amid everyday urban life. Other events will encompass literaryinspired artworks, projections, walking trails, dance expressions, cinema and workshops – all characterized by an open dialogue between all parties. Athens’ selection as World Book Capital cements our city’s status as both a hub of global stature and a major cultural destination. As an opening week highlight in April, the international bestselling author Ian McEwan discussed the “Literary Concept of Self” with the popular Greek poet Haris Vlavianos at the Athens Concert Hall. If you missed out on seeing McEwan and struggle to read Greek, you can still get involved in this exciting new chapter for

Athens at one of these other events, suited to an English-speaking audience: June 19-23 (7pm-8pm) Literature of Displacement, Refugee Food Festival Vassilenas Restaurant, Vrasida 13, tel. +30 210.721.0501, vassilenas.gr Athens Insider organizes a literary event themed around literature and food of displacement, examining how culture is shaped by shared memories of food, to coincide with the hugely-popular Athens Refugee Food Festival (June 18 to June 24). What does it mean to lose one’s home, family, cultural markers? What is lost, what might be gained? How do people come to create home in new spaces, land and cultures? Using evocative works, and selections from diaspora authors, the Refugee Food Festival will devote a section to books and writings that question how the loss or breakdown of one’s home culture is reflected in the lived experience of characters in narrative form. Each of the texts offers a unique vision of an identity forged out of the crucible of displacement. Athenians will have the opportunity to discover how cultures surviving the extraordinary flux and stress of migration create a dynamic or innovative expression. June 30 George Saunders POLIS Art Café, Pesmatzaglou 5, tel. +30 210.324.9588, stoabibliou.gr Man Booker Award winner 2017, George Saunders, speaks with the translator of his books in Greece, Giorgos-Ikaros Babassakis, about the present and the

“Books are dreams that you hold in your hands.” Neil Gaiman future of American Literature. The discussion will be co-ordinated by journalist and literary critic, Gregory Bekos. July 4 John Connolly Onassis Cultural Centre (rooftop) Syngrou Avenue 107, tel. +30 213.017.8000, sgt.gr How was Charlie Parker’s string of famous police novels born? The bestselling Irish author (and former journalist, barman and Harrods’ employee!) talks about the supernatural, the crime and the adventure of writing. The event is co-ordinated by journalist Elias Maglinis. Until July 21 Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika Ghika Gallery, Kriezotou 3, Benaki Museum, tel. +30 210.361.5702, benaki.gr The great artist Nikos HadjikyriakosGhika left an enduring footprint on Greek literature. Between 1937 and 1992, his arresting illustrations and paintings graced dozens of prestigious book covers, frontispieces for literary magazines (such as Nea Estia, Morfes and Aixoni) and poetry collections (everything by Kavafi, Daphnis and Chloe by Longus, Amorgos by Nikos Gatsos, to name a few). The Benaki exhibition - Nikos HadjikyriakosGhika: Painting for the Books - combines painting and literature, and offers to the public a great chance to admire older publications and to discover Ghika’s timeless art of illustration. For more information on the programme of “Athens 2018 – Books Everywhere!” visit athens2018.gr. • Athens World Book Capital 2018 is made possible thanks to its donors and contributors. Major Donor is Stavros Niarchos Foundation. Gold Donors are John S. Latsis Public Benefit Foundation and Core SA. Donors are Onassis Foundation, Welfare Foundation for Social & Cultural Affairs, Laskaridis Foundation and Greek Collecting Society for Literary Works (OSDEL). Valuable contributors are Aegean Airlines, Athens International Airport, and Urban Rail Transport SA (STASY).

OUT NOW! A laugh-out-loud informative guide to the colourful linguistic secrets of the Greeks, written by seasoned journalist and Athens Insider columnist John Carr (with Paul Anastasi), and accompanied by wonderfully humourous sketches by Iason Iliades.

Discover the answer to these and many other quirky colloquialisms – including the enduring mystery of Mrs Alexander’s buttons! A perfect gift for anyone who intends to spend time in Greece and get under the skin of the local culture.

AVAILABLE AT ATHENSINSIDER.COM AND AT ALL LEADING BOOKSTORES IN ATHENS FOR JUST €9.99 athens insider

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* What do you do when you “do the duck?”? * Why you don’t want to “eat soup” in Greece! * What happens when you “become billiard balls”?

The School of Life John Zervos’ mid-century Spetses was a Spetses of shipping tycoons, Russian ballet legends, kings and presidents. Here, he shares with Insider his enduring impressions of his boarding school days at the Saronic island’s infamous Anargyrios College, which was modelled on Eton and immortalized in John Fowles’ classic The Magus.

Old Sea - Captains’ Mansions define Spetses style.

#PEOPLE_memoir

John Zervos, third from left on a Sunday walk through town.

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My alma mater Anargyrios College had been founded in 1923 by a Greek tobacco merchant called Anargyrios to ‘train future Greek Prime Ministers’. There was only one that I was aware of, George Rallis, who succeeded Karamanlis in 1978. He was the scion of one of Greece’s great dynasties, both his father and grandfather also served as prime ministers, and the patrician Rallis brought a decency to the hurly-burly of Hellenic politics rarely seen in the divisive post-war period. The school was modeled after Eton College, and built with planned discomfort in mind; no hot water, no carpeting, and narrow metal beds to discourage venal activities. The large buildings were semineo-classical and the campus boasted impressive sports facilities. The end–ofyear athletic event called gymnastikes epidixis, was a three-day affair usually attended by the King, who stayed at the magnificent Posidonion Hotel also owned by the school (and also immortalized by Fowles in his novel as that “obese Greek Edwardian hotel”). Life was not easy at the school. In addition to the freezing water, we were roused every morning for a dizzying plunge in the cold sea. There was no escape from the hazing from older boys, the physical beatings from the teachers and staff and the rigid schedule of classes and sports. On Sundays, we were allowed out of the school in uniform and were marched to church, followed by a film screening, and later indulged in eating ‘pastes ‘sugar cakes, made with nuts, a local specialty, called Amygdalota made from almonds. Before returning to school we would secretly smoke cigarettes in the public loo. The housemaster, Kesses, would wait to smell our breath. If found guilty our

The school was modeled after Eton College and built with planned discomfort in mind.

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o my parents’ despair, I never seemed to grasp anything academic. So after the Moraitis School (one of Athens’ most august private institutions) I was sent to a German school in Athens called Dõrpfeld Gymnasium for a year. I hated the long bus ride, despised the smug teachers, and played hooky most days. Pleading unwell, I would leave the school and wait for the seedy cinemas to open on Patission Street. When the weather improved I would take the old subway with its wooden carriages to Piraeus, rent a rowing boat and bask in the sun admiring the ships and activity in the busy port. As a consequence, I failed all my classes and was dispatched in January 1958 to Anargyrios College (AKSS) boarding school on the island of Spetses, the one captured by John Fowles in his famous post-modern literary work The Magus. My five-hour passage to Spetses, a loafshaped and verdant island in the Saronic Gulf, was on the steamship Neraida, (Mermaid) expertly piloted by Captain Latsis who wore a Greek seaman’s hat and had weathered many storms in his time. He told me of his plans to buy cargo ships and become rich and famous like Aristotle Onassis. So important to have a vision in one’s life! Twenty-five years later, Yiannis Latsis, become one of the world’s most successful Greek ship tycoons with a huge cargo fleet, refineries, banks and glory. He kept a low-key profile but often invited powerful politicians from around the world on his yacht. He always brought them to Spetses. Years later, sitting in the port of Dappia I used to see George Bush, Colin Powell and others milling around in their shorts, all guests of Captain Latsis (who died in April 2003).

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Captain Latsis’ steam ship.

Photo by Lisa Furuland Kotsianis

name was written down for evening punishment after prayers. On Saturday mornings, instead of jumping into the sea we had to jog up the mountain through the pine forest until we reached a small stone amphitheater that was used for productions of Ancient Greek drama. Little did I realize that twenty years later I would be using the same theatre for my own productions with American actors and students - everything from Shakespeare to variations of Greek plays. It was a magical location with a view across the bay to Porto Heli on the mainland. My English teacher at the school, Leonard Bernstein, first introduced me to Shakespeare by acting out the parts himself. It was a good educational tool that I enjoyed and paved the way for my liking of Shakespeare ever since. The school had a library, mostly unused. There I discovered a treasure trove of books in English. During monitored study periods I would read them instead of doing my homework. If anyone asked, I told them I was studying for my English class. It was here that I read Pearl S. Buck’s, The Good Earth, Michael Sholokhov’s And Quiet Flows the Don and other novels that opened my mind to exotic places and events of which I had been unaware. As for Spetses itself, it was (and still is mostly) car-free with delightful horsedrawn carriages for transport, beautiful neo-classical houses that wealthy Athenians had built for their summer

abodes. The main port of Dapia was lined with canons to protect the island during the Greek war of Liberation from the Ottoman Empire between 1821 and 1830. Spetses has a special heroine, a courageous sea captain called Laskarina Bouboulina who won all her naval battles; there is a museum created in her honour with artifacts, canons and engravings of her accomplishments. Next to Spetses is a tiny island called Spetsopoula, ‘ little Spetses,’ owned by the Niarchos shipping magnate who furnished it with roads and a game preserve (reportedly the Prince and Princess of Wales spent some of their honeymoon there). In the late 50’s and 60’s, the fashionable hangout was Blueberry Hill where you went to dance under the stars. In 1980, a bar/night club called Figaro opened in the old port catering to ship owners, royalty, and jet setters from across the world. On its opening night, 500 private yachts docked at the marina. Nureyev was present, Prince Paul, the Niarchos shipping clan, as well as the crème of Athenian society. In 2003, its lease was not renewed. The building was bought in 2018 by an old friend, ship owner Marios Stafilopatis, who is now turning it into an international gallery. John Fowles, the British author, had taught at my school in 1953, and later wrote his best-selling novel called The Magus about an eccentric character who lived on the other side of the island in mysterious

In the late 50’s and 60’s, the fashionable hangout was Blueberry Hill where you went to dance under the stars.

circumstances. The book, which was made into a film in 1968 starring Michael Caine, Anthony Quinn and Candice Bergin, launched Spetses into the literary limelight. It was a complicated story. But it captured the essence of Spetses’ beauty and the imagination of future tourists who came looking to find the famed ‘Magus’ house. • Extract from John Zervos’ forthcoming memoir “A Life in Paradise”.

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Lighten your load with “Up lit” There’s a palpable change in the Spring air, and it’s not just the scent of budding thyme leaves being warmed by the sun. A new genre of novel has arrived as a rebuke to the ceaseless grim tidings all around us – political, economic and environmental: and it’s called “Up lit”. Readers, it seems, are now voting for life-affirming stories with a strong sense of community, compassion and kindness as a salve to these trying – and often inhumane - times. Anna Roins joins the movement and shares 3 of her favourite “Up lit” titles guaranteed to illuminate your summer.

The Keeper of Lost Things by Ruth Hogan (Two Roads) This debut was the winner of the Richard & Judy Readers’ Award in the UK and a Sunday Times bestseller. It has a dual-narrative that spans 40 years and weaves together the stories of two British assistants; Eunice, who works for a publisher in the 1970s and, Laura, who works for an elderly writer in the present day. Anthony Peardew has spent his life mourning his long-deceased fiancée, Therese. Forty years ago, he carelessly lost her beloved keepsake moments before she died unexpectedly and has never forgiven himself. He seeks consolation and redemption in rescuing lost objects; things that were abandoned on trains, misplaced in parks, or dropped in the gutter, in the hope they might be reunited with their rightful owner one day. Meanwhile, Anthony writes “congenial and commercial tales” about the objects that relate to the circumstances in which they were lost, but over time, these stories take on a more solemn tone. They are woven throughout the book and help create mystery around the items. As Anthony nears the end of his own life, he bequeaths his life’s mission to Laura, his secretary-turned-housekeeper, a middle-aged woman with low selfesteem emerging from a difficult divorce. He leaves her his mansion, aptly named Padua, and all its lost treasures, including a brooding ghost. When Laura moves in, she’s gifted a second

chance at life. She finds new friends in the neighbour’s psychic daughter, Sunshine, and the rugged gardener Freddy. As her melancholy lifts, Laura sets out to realise Anthony’s last wish of reuniting his cherished lost objects with their owners. The book’s other thread is about the poignant friendship between Eunice and Bomber, tempered by the quiet angst of unrequited love. The affable Bomber, a publisher of quality literature, hires clever Eunice as his assistant while trying to avoid flimsy manuscripts sent to him by his petulant sister, Portia, described most excellently by Hogan as, “…an inelegant zigzag of nose, elbows, and knees.” Other such brilliant expressions in Hogan’s writing include:“A hush is a dangerous thing. Silence is solid and dependable, but a hush is expectant, like a pregnant pause; it invites mischief, like a loose thread begging to be pulled.” Meanwhile, some phrases will make you laugh out loud:“I do wish that dog would learn to cock his leg. Next thing we know, he’ll be wearing lilac and singing show tunes.” In the present day, and with Eunice’s own end drawing near, she loses something precious that forces her to break a promise she once made. As the new keeper of lost things, Laura holds the key to Anthony and Eunice’s redemption. The Keeper of Lost Things is an enchanting tale about how seemingly innocuous objects can lead us to meaningful human connections.

An enchanting tale about how seemingly innocuous objects can lead us to meaningful human connections.

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An unusual novel which celebrates kindness through the eyes of an idiosyncratic heroine who is more generous and courageous than she realises.

“I won’t ever choose violence, cruelty, and other page-turning options. It’s much harder to write about happiness.”

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Gail Honeyman, Eleanor Oliphant is Completely Fine (HarperCollins) Here’s another “Up lit” debut which was a Sunday Times No 1 bestseller, as well as winner of the Costa First Novel Award 2017, longlisted for the Women’s Prize for Fiction 2018 and soon to be a major motion picture produced by Reese Witherspoon’s production company, Hello, Sunshine. It’s also my favourite of the three. Thirty-year-old Eleanor Oliphant is an unreliable narrator who has worked as a finance clerk at a graphics design company in Glasgow for the last nine years. She is antisocial, with a tendency towards bluntness, and has a mysterious scar covering half of her face. On Fridays, she religiously buys a frozen Tesco pizza, a bottle of Chianti, and two bottles of vodka, and drinks and sleeps until Monday morning, not speaking to another soul for days. Her only source of social interaction is her Wednesday night phone chats with “Mummy” - a frightful character with a criminal past which led to Eleanor’s placement in foster care. Not knowing what happened in Eleanor’s past propels the reader forward. Everything changes when Eleanor meets Raymond, the new IT guy from her office whom she has hilarious and disparaging thoughts about at every turn. When she and Raymond save Sammy, an elderly gentleman who has fallen on the sidewalk, the series of events that follow open Eleanor to the possibility of transformation and another life. Eleanor Oliphant Is Completely Fine is an unusual novel which celebrates kindness through the eyes of an idiosyncratic heroine who is more generous and courageous than she realises and whose deadpan wit makes for a truly delightful read. The hopeful notion that it is possible to fix what is broken with a bit of compassion in our increasingly busy and fragmented lives explains why “Up lit” is resonating so strongly with readers all over the globe.

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Frances Mayes, Women in Sunlight (Crown Publishing Group) The author of the best-selling 1996 memoir Under the Tuscan Sun, Frances Mayes, writes another love letter to Italy with Women in Sunlight. Kit, an American writer and poet, has lived in San Rocco, a small village outside of Florence with her partner Colin, an architect, for 13 years. While sitting in her garden struggling to write a memoir about her recently deceased friend Margaret, three women move in across the road and distract Kit from her work. Camille 69, Susan 64 and Julia 59, meet while touring a North Carolina retirement home - each trying to move on from personal tragedy. On impulse, they decide to lease a big, beautiful house in Tuscany instead, free to pursue their passions of gardening, art and cooking. How splendid! The neighbourly way in which the women help each other and encourage the realisation of dreams (and love) over the course of four seasons creates a surge of empathy and wonder in the reader, with adventures like olive tasting after a hands-on harvest portrayed like a mindful travelogue. Stories about women after a certain age group are often under-represented in movies and books, yet it’s a beautiful and compelling topic ripe for exploration with TV shows like Frankie and Grace. As with all her Italian books, Mayes offers a fantastic revelry in the food and wine, usually consumed outdoors. Reading about the Sardinian pecorino Fiore di Monte sprinkled on slivers of focaccia, olives baked with hot peppers, and lemon peel followed by blackberry crostata will make you ponder what you’re having for dinner tonight. Frances Mayes once said, “I won’t ever choose violence, cruelty, and other pageturning options. It’s much harder to write about happiness.” Indeed, it is. But in Frances Mayes’ skilled hands, it can be every bit as gripping – especially when wish fulfilment of every kind awaits the reader - as it does in Women in Sunlight.

Photo of Richard Pine by Pavlas Smetanova.Taken at the Palace of Sts Michael and George, Corfu.

Corfu Cravings For almost two decades, the prolific Irish journalist and author Richard Pine was “pen pal” to literary legend Lawrence Durrell. The two writers were united in their passion for words but also shared an unshakeable bond with Corfu. Here, Richard Pine - who has just edited a previously unpublished novel of Lawrence Durrell’s set entirely in Greece, Placebo, which comes out in June - talks about his island muse and the place he calls home.

Lawrence Darell’s brother Gerald (as depicted in “The Darells”).

#CULTURE_my island affair

Photo by Lee Durrell. Left to right: Margo Durrell, Nancy (Larry’s wife), Larry, Gerry, Mrs Durrell (mother). How - and when - did your deep connection with the island of Corfu begin? I first came to Corfu in 2000 but I had been coming to Greece since a schoolboy in 1965. I came to Corfu because I was looking for a location for the Durrell School which I intended to establish and Corfu confirmed all my intuitions – the Durrell family had lived here 1935-39 and it still had the cultured charm of those times – certainly in Corfu Town. So I set up the School and became a permanent resident. They say “home is where you want to be buried” so this is definitely “home” because my final abode will be in the beautiful British cemetery in Corfu Town.

How does Corfu distinguish itself from other Greek islands? By being its superior self! But seriously, Corfu was administered by Venice for 400 years, so it has a very significant Italianate dimension to its culture, cuisine and language. Corfu has been a cosmopolitan city long before Athens became the capital of the new state of Greece. Many Corfiots wish they had not voted for enosis in 1863 and had stayed, technically at least, capital of the United States of the Ionian Islands. And, as it receives huge rainfall in the winter, it’s very verdant, which explains why it’s covered with olive trees over three million at the last count.

As an Irishman (and commentator on both the Greek and Irish condition), what key similarities do you feel exist between the two cultures? Well, because Greece and Ireland were both dominated by a neighbouring power for centuries, they share a passion for independence, for asserting their own identity and a resistance to authority! And of course the two countries have suffered similar deprivations after the economic crises in 2010. But on a deeper level, as we see it reflected in the writers, there’s the same love of imaginative storytelling, the focus on the intimacy of the family and the village, and a strong belief that this world and an “other” world live in close proximity. That’s very exciting.

Is it true that you and Lawrence Durrell were “pen pals” until his death in 1990? Do you have a favourite quote that you can share with us? Yes. I first met him in 1972 when he came to Dublin and encouraged me to write the book which eventually became Lawrence athens insider

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You moved to Greece in 2001 to set up the Durrell School of Corfu (now the Durrell Library of Corfu). What is it about the work of the Brothers Durrell that you find so enduring and worthy of championing? First of all they were GREAT writers – not just Lawrence with the major novels, but Gerald as a storyteller, bringing the reader into his adventures with endangered species. They both had a conscience – Gerry’s widow Lee, who is a frequent visitor to Corfu, says that when she first met them, she couldn’t believe the late-night discussions at the kitchen table ranging over every subject under the moon. Their individual contributions to the arts and sciences, and that of their mentor in Corfu, Theodore Stephanides, are enormous and deserve repeated celebrations. We persuaded the municipality to name a small garden on the Esplanade in their honour: “Bosketto Durrell”.

Durrell: the Mindscape. And we kept in touch. Some of what he wrote to me found its way into that book. Quotes? How long have you got? On a jokey level, there’s “Drink until you detonate the idea inside you” which works rather well, I find, and then on a more philosophical level “to accept two contradictory ideas as simultaneously true” - a delicious challenge which appeals to both the Irish and the Greek mind. I’ve just finished editing The Placebo, an unpublished novel by Durrell, set entirely in Greece in the 1940s, which will appear in June – so he is still a major presence in my life. Has the popular television series, The Durrells, (now airing its third series) had a positive impact on Corfu and the image that people outside of Greece have of it, in your opinion? Yes. Last year the level of bookings from UK visitors rose enormously. So from a tourism point of view it’s helping. And because it’s filmed largely in a replica folk village (Danilia), Corfu continues to look “authentic”. Obviously Corfu has changed hugely in the past 80 years, and a lot of the development is due to the Durrell brothers’ books. Gerald actually blamed himself for encouraging what he saw as the spoiling of the island. But there are still some of his favourite places which he would recognise today – such as the lagoon of Antiniotissa in the north of the island. Last year, you helped organise a writers’ symposium, Novel Encounters, to connect Greek and Irish authors on Corfu. Will there be another one this year? We are doing a lot of other work in Greece with the Irish Embassy and the Corfu Arts Foundation – for example piano recitals in Athens and Corfu by the brilliant young Irish pianist Finghin Collins in September, and the next literary events will be in 2019 when we are bringing together Irish writers and Greek would-be writers in an intensive writing workshop with the generic title “Write it in Corfu”. We’re also working on a “Samuel Beckett” event for Corfu, Athens and Thessaloniki. Where do you live on Corfu? In a village in the north-east, 40kms from Corfu Town. It’s really a conglomerate of three townlands: Agios Ilias, Loutses and Perithia. What do you see from your window? Trees. I am surrounded by olive groves and inside my own land I have an abundance of fruit trees. If I had a “view” of the sea, I wouldn’t be able to work. But if I walk out into the village street, I can see the Albanian mountains, which is an inspiring and intimidating sight.

#CULTURE_my island affair

When I’m writing, I like to be surrounded by Greek sounds. On an island famed for its gastronomic delights, where can one go on Corfu for an always fabulous dining experience? In Corfu Town, Marina’s taverna in the Jewish quarter – she makes modern variations on traditional dishes. In my own locality, with my friend Tomas Siriotis at his taverna O Forno at the top of the mountain in Old Perithia – for authentic village dishes cooked on charcoal, and intelligent and happy company. Describe your perfect day in Corfu … Anything that doesn’t involve writing! An earlymorning walk from the Old Fortress in Corfu Town along the corniche of Garitsa Bay to breakfast at Anemomilos. Then a session with some of the students at the Ionian University where I give occasional lectures. Then a walk through the Jewish quarter and lunch at Chrysomallis taverna near the Esplanade. Then drive home through the inland villages and olive groves, a couple of hours editing or proofreading, dinner at Tomas’s and then sitting out on my terrace under the vines until the early hours, listening to the skops owl and watching fireflies. A spot on Corfu where you find creative inspiration? When I’m writing the columns for The Irish Times or Kathimerini I like to be surrounded by Greek sounds – on the terrace of the village kafeneion or, outside the tourist season, in the cafes in Town. If I’m writing anything else, I work on my terrace or in the big library I built onto the side of my house. Any recommendations on where to stay? I usually stay modestly at the Konstantinoupolis, on the old harbour, or the Hermes, right beside the markets, but if you want to go upmarket then the Cavalieri, with its spectacular view from the roofgarden, is great.

Richard Pine is Director of the Durrell Library of Corfu and author of many books including Lawrence Durrell: the Mindscape, Greece Through Irish Eyes, and The Disappointed Bridge: Ireland and Post-Colonial Literature. He is also a columnist for The Irish Times and Kathimerini. athens insider

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Finally, tell us one absolutely unmissable experience for first-time visitors … We’ve suffered for years from the closure of the Archaeological Museum, due to protracted rebuilding, but if it’s open, then the sculpture of the Medusa is the most amazing in all of Greece. Lawrence Durrell said “it profoundly hushes the mind and heart of the observer” and that she makes you realise “the almost unimaginable antiquity of Greece”. He wasn’t bluffing. •

Let the sunshine in Treat your home to a Spring-Summer “pick-me-up” by introducing one of the season’s hottest interior design style statements.

Geometrics

Although we did see geometrics in 2017, it was mainly on cushions and rugs. This year it’s all about tiles, wallpaper and art and we love it!

Tropical prints

The tropical trend is still going strong. Think large scale leaf prints, oversized insects, safari wildlife and exotic birds.

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Gentle pastel tones

Lovely news! Pastels are big this year and will bring a feeling of calmness and a soothing note to your home. Pale powdery pinks, soft mint tones and duck egg blue are the colours you have to choose.

Warm Color Schemes

Minimalism still rules. But to make spaces feel more inviting, cool color schemes are being edged out by earthy brown hues.Try it!

Creative Office Spaces

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With more and more people working from home these days, the demand for a carefully designed office space has never been higher. Forget boring desks in plain box rooms, invest in a beautiful desk and make the difference.

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The Return of Marble

Marble has made a comeback and will continue to be highlighted in the design world. The material represents luxury and glamour and pairing marble with gold, rose gold, or bronze will make the pieces cutting edge and at the same time, classic. The spontaneous grain of marble also reminds â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Wabi-sabiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the art of imperfection, that delivers an inspiring and fresh way to view your home. Marble allows you to take advantage of scratches or flaws and is an appealing material for families with children and a great investment to impress your guests too.

The Vibrant Touches

Colour is making a big comeback in our homes. And decorating with bright colours is easier than you might think. Incorporate a few accents in a complementary colour to balance things out.

Compiled by Stirixis Exclusive. Stirixis Exclusive is the business unit of Stirixis Group, the internationally awarded strategy-through execution consultancy firm. Stirixis Exclusive creates unique living spaces, delivering functional and bespoke concepts based on exciting and novel design ideas to design your perfect living environment. Their expertise stems from 22 years of experience and the delivery on time and on budget of more than 550 projects in 22 countries, specialising in private spaces including family residences and villas, modern city apartments, lofts, as well as vacation houses. Stirixis Exclusive has offices in Athens, Bucharest, and London, but can support projects worldwide. Visit www.stirixisexclusive.com for more information.

Metallic Home Decor

Metallics are taking center stage as shimmery furniture or lustrous wallpaper that anchor a space.

Memories of Greece Our favourite go-to shop for stylish and quirky Greek keepsakes, Anamnesia, with two stores in Athens (at the airport and in the tourist heart of Plaka) and a store each in Mykonos, Herakleion and Zakynthos, is the perfect stop to stock up on gifts to take back home. With their playful spin on classic Greek staples such as Greek salads and souvlaki, donkeys and squid, Anamnesia’s delightful range of tableware, kitchen essentials and gifts are the best way to preserve the pleasures of your Hellenic holiday. In addition to their witty, quintessentially Greek designs, the island branches also carry charming and exclusive destination-specific motifs. In Anamnesia Zakynthos, for instance, you can capture the essence of two of the island’s most memorable sights, the Caretta-Caretta loggerhead sea turtle and world-famous Navagio Beach while at the Heraklion store, Cretan daggers are a hugely popular draw. We advise you to buy at least two of everything though because you’ll be wanting to keep these practical yet clever gifts all to yourself.

Plaka

99 Andrianou St, Plaka, Athens, Tel: 214.687.0704

Airport Athens International Airport, Mykonos

Matoyiannia, Mykonos, Tel: 228.907.9171

Zakynthos

21 21st Maiou St, Zante, Tel: 269.504.5999

Crete

12-14 Daidalou, Heraklion, Tel: +30 2810 228121 athens insider

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Departures Level, Tel: 210.353.3104

Best “Secret” Greek Islands and Where to Stay on Them

With Greek islomaniacs on the eternal quest for an island paradise where it’s still possible to access “the real Greece”, without being over-run by the masses, Insider’s Amanda Dardanis shortlists 10 Greek island destinations that are still blissfully below radar for the world at large. For Now…

Alonnisos

Elegant Alonnisos is the silent achiever of the northern Aegean’s Sporades clan as well as the perfect choice for divers, nature lovers and Greek island purists who’d prefer not to see other travelers. On this emerald green isle, just 12 miles long, you’ll find a paradisiacal riot of rare passion flowers, butterflies, honeysuckle, twisted olive trees and ripe apricots. The surrounding waters are a designated marine park housing dolphins and endangered seals; while the island’s pristine beaches, unblemished bays and enticing rock pools provide a sublime summer playground. Gorge on nature’s bounty but don’t miss Alonnisos’ crowning man-made glory: the old Chora village with its steep stony stairways and intriguing veiled pockets. Where to stay: Althea Armonia Suites - a classy hive of 8 elegant rooms (some with mini-pools) in a great old village location with stellar views. Double rooms go for about €80 a night; ones with a mini-pool for €115. (tel: +30 2424066255, +44 75 17629898, alfacollection.gr)

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Astypalaia

Butterfly-shaped Astypalaia has recently gone from being a virtually anonymous Greek island to the name on just about everyone’s lips. This drop-dead gorgeous Dodecanese hamlet combines sophistication with seclusion and is easy enough to reach, thanks to near-daily flights from Athens. Take a breather from the many beautiful beaches (the liveliest is Maltezana; the most escapist: Vatses, reached only by boat) to potter around the dreamy hilltop town of Chora, which owes more to Cycladic style than Dodecanese (not counting the focal-point Venetian castle that caps the scene). The Baths of Talara with their vivid Hellenic period mosaics are also well worth an instagram salute or two. Where to stay: In a terrific Chora location, elegant Kallichoron Art Boutique Hotel showcases covetable Aegean-inspired art and local delicacies like Astypalean thyme honey. A superior double suite with private terrace and breakfast is about €100. (tel: +30 22430 61935, kallichoron.gr )

Karpathos

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One of Greece’s least commercialised islands, this hefty Dodecanese paradise to the east of Crete beckons to those who yearn for more mindful holidays. They come to relish Karpathos’ long, ruggedly handsome contours, its wildly beautiful blue coves - and its split-personality: one side of the island is rocky; the other fertile and green. There’s a primal almost other-worldly vibe to unspoiled Karpathos, especially in the gorgeous mountain village of Olympos which spent centuries in isolation and still practises medieval crafts and rituals. You’ll find dreamy sweeps of beach like Lefkos and Apella to laze away your days; while this nature-lovers’ retreat is also aquatically-rich: drink from fresh water springs or try your luck at glimpsing an endangered Mediterranean monk seal or a dolphin at play beneath aquamarine waters. Where to stay: Silene Villas - a cluster of 6 bright and breezy contemporary villa-style lodgings overlooking beautiful Ammopi bay. A private pool villa room for two costs about €170-195. (tel:+30 6972.737743, silenevillas.com)

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Kythnos

Foreign tourists are few on this low-key Cycladic delight that’s a very Greek portal to simpler times and pursuits. Weekends see the breezy cafes and tavernas in Kythnos’ small traditional villages swell with Athenians who’ve made the easy crossing from Piraeus or Lavrio. There are more than 70 beaches on relaxed Kythnos - but it’s exquisite Kolona, where a bright stripe of sand splits the sea in two, that they’ve all come to see. Follow the yachting crowd to the small port of Loutra to find hot healing springs and a lovely beach where you can eat grilled seafood on the sand. An inland network of scenic trails provides great hiking fodder but one of the best ways to experience Kythnos’ considerable natural charms is with a pair of flippers and a snorkel. Where to stay: Well-appointed Kythnos Bay Hotel sits pretty on lively Loutra and has double seaview rooms with breakfast for about €74. (tel: +30 22810 31218, hotelkythnosbay.gr)

Koufonisia

Koufonisia sits at that lovely pre-tipping point where word has got out about its ravishing charms, but for the moment at least, this micro island paradise near Mykonos (actually it’s a trio of tiny islands) still hangs onto its unhurried ways. A fashionable crowd favours Koufonisia for its astonishing beaches and geological rock formations, along with the handful of chic restaurants and boutique hotels (Roberto Cavalli and the Missoni family are reportedly fans). But at heart, this is a chilled barefoot hamlet where you can have dinner anywhere in your swimsuit, hike easily between the island’s six main beaches and play board games with new friends made over driftless afternoons spent tucking into delicious Mediterranean morsels by the sea. Koufonisia’s headliner is magnificent Pori, an enormous white sand horseshoe of a beach with iridescent blue waters in Ano Koufonisi. Avoid Koufonisia in August though when the high-speed ferries overwhelm this bijou 10 sq mile hideaway. Where to stay: Boutique property Portes Houses combines classic Cycladic style with a barefoot chic aesthetic and zen vibe. A double seaview room with private terrace rents from €85 a night. (tel: +30 22850 74495, porteshouses.com)

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Tiny little Kastellorizo – known as Megisti in Greek – is flung so far from the Greek mainland that it’s almost an afterthought on the map. But this cool and arty island makes up for its geographical challenges by staging an entrance so pretty, it’s ridiculous. Chances are, by the time you’ve sailed past the ravaged castle and bright huddle of pastel neo-classical houses gracing the peacock blue bay, you’ll already be sold. Little more than one mile away from the Turkish coast (and Kaş), Kastellorizo is the largest of a small archipelago. Its steep and rocky contours don’t allow for much in the way of sandy beaches but you’ll find many an idyllic swimming cove and sunbathing platform from which to dive or snorkel, plus there’s Parasta, possibly the Med’s most dramatic blue cave. Don’t trouble yourself too much about seeing the sights on loose Kastellorizo. Once you’ve ticked off the medieval Castle of Megisti and Greece’s only Lycian Tomb and explored the charming tangle of streets behind the harbour, just settle in and enjoy the languid local mode. Where to stay: At Mediterraneo Kastellorizo, Parisian architect Marie Rivalant has converted a waterfront mansion into a vibrant bohemian haven where you can dive into the sea from your terrace or swim across the bay for a cocktail. A seaview double with breakfast is about €110. (tel: +30 224604 9007, mediterraneo-megisti.com).

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Paxos

Greek mythology has it that that lusty sea god Poseidon splintered tiny Paxos off from Corfu as a private love nest to woo his favourite sea-nymph. Romance is still the main game at this delightfully-secluded and exclusive Ionian enclave that resembles a forest in the middle of the sea. Explore doll-sized Paxos by boat to clock its most stunning sights: Galazio beach (the Blue Lagoon of the Med), the arresting rock formations of Kamara, and the nearby micro-satellite of Antipaxos where two of the most perfect beaches you’ll ever clap eyes on await: Voutoumi and Vrika. Come the evening, it’s all about dreamy waterfront dining à deux on Paxos’ enchanted trio of neo-classical harbours, Gaios, Lakka and Loggos (each one prettier than the last). The local cuisine is several cuts above your typical taverna fare, especially at swish Erimitis – an outrageously romantic restaurant sitting atop a 150-metre sheer vertical drop of glowing limestone. Inexplicably, Paxos has managed to stay below-radar. Get there before the cat gets out of the bag. Where to stay: Enveloped by an ancient olive grove, Torrie Merli boutique hotel provides a tranquil haven in a luxuriously-restored Venetian manor house. Double suites range from €130200. (tel: +30 262123 4123, torriemerli.com)

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Megisti (Kastellorizo)

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Samothraki (also known as Samothrace)

Overlooked by most Greek island hoppers – and happy about it too – unaffected Samothraki best pleases those who value the great outdoors over fancy restaurants and a summer scene. Isolated off the northern coast of Greece, and reached only from the mainland port of Alexandroupouli, you go to remote Samothraki to listen to the sounds of silence, immerse yourself in the fierce natural beauty of its mountainous terrain and to tend to your own spiritual hinterland by bathing in picture-book waterfalls at Vathres or the reviving thermal springs of Loutra (Therma), encased in ancient forest. In the south, you’ll find prized beaches like Pachia Ammos while this ecologically-diverse hiker’s nirvana also lays claim to one of Greece’s mightiest archaeological sites: the ancient Thracian Sanctuary of the Great Gods. Not bad going for a little fishing outpost that’s just 11 miles long and which remains among the last truly untarnished islands of Greece.

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The Essence of Samothraki Serenity

amed for its winged Nike that now graces the Louvre, Samothraki has always attracted the more discerning traveler who prefers its unworldly character and savage beauty. The Archondissa Beach Hotel - a cheerful pitch-perfect retreat in Loutra with a terrific beach location, well-tended gardens and BBQ facilities - is a great base from which to explore Samothraki’s web of hiking trails and secluded beaches and to take in its cascading waterfalls and thermal springs.

Tel: +30 255.109.8098 archondissa.gr

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Enjoy free sunbeds on lovely Archondissa Beach, just 20 metres away; free Wi-Fi in the hotel’s public spaces; and the freedom to either prepare your own meals in your room or sample a delicious daily breakfast of locally-sourced ingredients such as homemade marmalade, honey, cheese, yoghurt and eggs from Samothraki on the hotel terrace (with extra charge). For a double studio with sea view, private terrace and kitchenette expect to pay from €40 on. The hotel is open between April to October.

Serifos

The chilled island of Serifos is a compact and unpretentious Cycladic treasure that’s become a hip haven for sophisticated Athenians and solitude-loving Europeans (without the eye-watering prices of Mykonos or Santorini). An easy two-hour ferry ride away from Piraeus, Serifos’ many admirers cite its feral beauty, the odd fossilised shapes, and the blissful beaches and Tahitian-coloured bays that furnish the barren, cinematic coastlines. (If green is your scene, Serifos may not be for you). Best Serifos moments include a spectacularly scenic one-hour hike down from its romantic Chora to Livadi Bay below; and swimming at Psili Ammos – a fine sandy beach on the island’s eastern flanks that’s commonly billed as the most spectacular of Serifos’ 40 officiallyrecognised beaches. Where to stay: Coco-Mat Eco Residences, fronting stunning Vagia beach, is a cosy community of 13 contemporary guesthouses converted from old stone miners’ cottages. A onebedroom beachfront residence costs about €225. (tel: +30 2106 251971, serifos.coco-mat-hotels.com)

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For many, Symi’s opening act is reason alone to visit this classy but low-key Dodecanese island, just north of Rhodes. Small in size and rocky by nature, Symi’s utterly gorgeous neo-classical harbor Yialos is often rated, with good reason, as the most beautiful of its species in Greece. Few fail to be charmed by its harmonious clutch of technicolour mansions (some of which you can rent) arranged artfully around a vivid blue bay. Don’t go to Symi in search of great sandy beaches (most here are pebbly) or cultural distractions. Barring a few must-sees, such as the monastery of Archangel Michael of Panormitis and the picturesque villages of Pedi and Kali Strata with its famous flight of 375 stone steps, what you’ll find instead on this island of sea sponge divers is a back to basics bolthole in a beautiful pocket of Greece. Days and evenings are shaped by a leisurely rhythm of taking water taxis to tranquil beaches, eating great food in local tavernas (the Michelinmentioned “Muses” in the main square is the most-feted) and going for long walks in the hills or amid the elegant lanes of the old town (Chorio). Where to stay: Once the historic heart of Symi’s spice and silver trade, The Old Markets is athens insider

now a captivating guesthouse with five individually-styled rooms granting heady views over Symi’s harbour and gourmet rooftop dining. A double room costs from about €190 (based on a minimum twonight stay). (tel: +30 22460 71440, theoldmarkets. com) * all room rates quoted are based on approximate cost per night, including taxes, for two people sharing, during Mayuntil early June.

*This is an abridged extract from an article that first appeared in The Times.

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Symi

A Taste for Harmony Greeks – as they endeavour to embrace international tastes - are developing cravings for ever more exotic flavours and Thai cooking, with its artful blending of colour and spice, has never been more popular in the capital. If anyone knows how to prepare a world-class, restaurant-quality Thai feast, it’s the Thai Ambassador to Greece, H.E. Chailert Limsonboon, and his wife Sansaya. Insider’s Cristina Butler was invited to lunch at their diplomatic residence in Paleo Psychiko to discuss with this cultured couple the secrets of their country’s much sought-after cuisine and how best to appreciate it.

Ms. Maliwan TOTAP (left) Ms. Somporn PUTKAEW (right)

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How should one serve a Thai meal at home in order to be authentic? Thai meals are served as a single dish or they can be served with rice and many complementary dishes and shared by all. Thai meals are best served all at once to enjoy the complementary combinations of different tastes. Thai food is usually eaten with a spoon rather than chopsticks. A fork is used to help push food onto the spoon. Few know of the richness and versatility of Thai street food. Could you pick out some of your favorites? How does it differ from food at a Thai restaurant or a meal cooked at home? Thai street food isn’t all that different from the food cooked at home. Vendors in Thailand set up small stands with tables and chairs on the sidewalk, so that people can take away or eat out in the open. Some of the most common street food dishes in Thailand are Pad Thai Noodles (PadThai), Papaya Salad (Som-Tam), Grilled Chicken with Sticky Rice (Gai-YangKhaw-Nieuw), Green Curry (Gang-KiewWan), Fried Spring Rolls (Por-Pieer-Tod), Massamun Curry (Gang-Massaman), Grilled Skewed Pork with Sticky Rice (Moo-Ping-Kaow-Nieuw), Fried, and Beef Noodles (Kauy-Tiaw-Nua). Popular Thai desserts includes Thai Coconut Pudding, (Kha-Nom-Krok), Thai Layered Jelly (Kha-Nom-Chan) and Sweet Sticky Rice with Thai Custard (KhaoNheaw-Sang-Kha-Yha). My favourite Thai street foods are Pad Thai, Papaya Salad, and Grilled Skewed Pork with Sticky Rice. Plating and presentation are hugely important in Thai cuisine. Could you tell athens insider

us a bit about that? Do you have special dishes to serve in? Is there a colour code that is observed? Thai food presentation is among the most exquisite in the world because it represents and reflects an important aspect of the Thai culture as well. Serving platters are decorated with all variety of carved vegetables and fruits fashioned into flowers and other pieces of beauty. For such artwork, Thai chefs use a simple paring knife and ice water. Thai food can often be served in the traditional form of Thai porcelain, called “Benjarong”, which is one of the most colourful and ornate of Thai handicrafts. The name of the porcelain “Benjarong” literally means “Five Colours”. Thai food is an interesting harmony of sweet, salty, sour and spicy. What are your personal favourite Thai dishes? My favorite Thai dishes are Tom Kha Gai (Chicken, Coconut and Galangal Soup) Nam Tok Moo (Hot and Spicy Grilled Pork Salad) and Pla Sam Rod (Fried Fish with Sweet, Hot and Sour Sauce). Finally, can you recommend some good Thai restaurants in Athens for us to satisfy our cravings? There are five we are aware of that serve excellent Thai food: Rouan Thai (Notara 131, Pireaus); Dara Thai Restaurant (Aidiniou 9, Ag. Dimitrios), Blue Bamboo (Kidantidon 24, Athens), Buba (Papadiamanti 4, Kifisia) and Andaman (Alopis 65, Athens). •

Chor Muang (Steamed Thai Dumpling with Chickens)

LaTieng (Fried Prawns &Nut Wrapped in an Egg)

Kanom Loog Choup (Imitation of Fruits made of Cooked Mung)

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What makes Thai cuisine so refined? What four ingredients should one have in the kitchen to prepare a Thai dish? Although Thai cuisine is widely known for being spicy and hot, Thai cooking is most popular for its wonderful blend of the five elemental flavours: namely Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Spicy. Basic ingredients such as basil, lemongrass, garlic, ginger and coriander are used to prepare a typical Thai dish. To elevate the dish to another dimension, one can add fish sauce, lime and red chillies.

Timeless French allure at Spiros & Vasilis In a city thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s constantly hungry for new trends, and one that is becoming more exacting in its culinary standards, French cooking has survived the fads, and it is restaurants like Spiros and Vasilis that remind us just why it was so highly prized in the first place, notes Sudha Nair-Iliades.

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father. Highlighting the strong sense of proprietorship the clientele have for their restaurant, Polymeris adds, “Some of the regulars have been coming here for so long that at first, I felt that I was almost intruding in their space. Its only over the past two years that I have realized just how powerful the history of this restaurant is.” He adds, “In fact, I practically grew up here. The restaurant was part of our house. Our memories are intrinsically tied to this space. We are a family restaurant not only in terms of ownership but also in terms of our customer base. When my clients tell me that they came here years ago with their grandparents, I’m humbled by the role the restaurant has played in forging these family memories.” But the restaurant scene in Athens has changed dramatically from when Spiros and Vasilis started out. Then, there were around 10 good restaurants in Athens – mainly Greek and a couple of French ones. Since then, the culinary scene of Athens has changed with fusion restaurants flaunting eclectic menus catering to

young, adventurous Greek epicures and sophisticated tourists tired of the ‘moussaka-horiatiki’ formula. Polymeris concurs, “The Greek consumer today is better informed than the diners we had 40 years ago. He knows how he wants his meat cooked, he dares to experiment with new tastes, pairs his wine with food, looks for more specialized products and tastes, looks for dishes with a healthy approach. When the customer is knowledgeable, we feel good, because that means he can recognize good quality.” There are so few of the old school restaurants, one of those great holdouts that harken back to the days of traditional French recipes in comfortably posh surroundings, Spiros and Vasilis reminds us just why we love French cuisine so much.•

Spiros and Vasilis, Lachitos 5, Kolonaki, tel: +30 210.723.7575, spirosvasilis.gr

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piros and Vasilis has long been a bastion of all things elegant, unhurried and old-world in a shifting gastronomic landscape – for 44 years to be exact. Initially run by brothers Spiros and Vasilis, the eponymous restaurant that epitomizes classic French cuisine in Athens, is now helmed by Vasilis’ son, George Polymeris. Located just behind the American Embassy and the Megaro Mousikis on Lachitos street, Spiros and Vasilis has been a favourite stomping ground for the culturati especially during the postjunta years – Nana Mouskouri and Demis Roussos often converged here as did most Prime Ministers, artists Yiannis Moralis and Ornerakis proferred their aesthetic counsel, and journalists reeling from press censures under the junta dubbed it the ‘resistance restaurant’. With vaulted 6-metre high ceilings and a wine wall that promises some of the finest Greek and international labels, the setting could be a typical Parisian bistro. The restaurant seats around 60 on the ground floor and another 30 on the first floor. But what we’d highly recommend is dining in the lush garden just across the restaurant under century-old pine trees, and the whiff of jasmine and orange blossoms on a balmy summer evening. It’s a precious little oasis, so unexpected, that it makes the dining experience all the more intimate. The menu here continues to be fastidiously French boasting Gallic staples such as a luxuriously satisfying soupe d’oignon with chunky croutons and grated Comté, entrecote (based on the original Cafe de Paris’ highly complex, butter-based sauce recipe with over 40 different ingredients!), foie gras fait-maison, frog drumsticks in garlic butter and escargots à la Bourguignonne. It’s all wonderfully garlicky, and French, which is great if you’re into that sort of thing! While the menu may take its lead from French traditions, the idea here is to create French food that’s free from fuss and formality. This authentic feel permeates everything from the décor to the food and the service. The menu is written in French, ditties by Jacques Brel and Piaf evoke Paris of the 60s, and although the service retains some of the French ‘comme-ilfaut-ness’ with starched white tablecloths and attentive waiters, the atmosphere here makes for a warm, informal yet elegant dining experience. From my corner table, I watched as George Polymeris interacted with his clients, most of whom asked after his

Marine Dreams at Vassilenas Vassilenas transforms sturdily traditional Mediterranean staples into subtly tweaked culinary marvels with imagination, skill and a healthy dose of audacity. From a humble taverna in the gritty sea-faring neighbourhood of 1920s Piraeus to a modern, cosmopolitan restaurant in the heart of Athens, Vassilenas encapsulates a culinary story that spans a hundred years. Reviewed by Sudha Nair-Iliades.

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hanassis Vassilenas has the onerous and unenviable task of running a restaurant whose pedigree is almost a century old. It is a responsibility he gallantly hopes to shoulder with the same core set of values that drove his father, and grandfather before him – by daring to innovate while investing in their innate culinary repertoire. And of course, by being exigent in the kitchen and exacting with the service. At the new venue on Vrasida, the restaurant skirts the verdant Madrid Park and ‘converses’ with the southern facade of the Hilton that bears the signature geometric designs of acclaimed Greek modern artist Yiannis Moralis. The proximity to the Hilton and Moralis’ aesthetic footprint is what most inspired KK Architects, who designed the restaurant at its new premises.

The restaurant’s interior walls are of volcanic pumice stone from Santorini; the ceiling is adorned with green wine bottles, illuminated from the inside with optical fibers, while black sheet metal delivers a polished finish. An impressive walk-in wine cellar mirrors the restaurant’s accent on fine wines. In keeping with its Piraeus roots, Vassilenas prides itself as purveyors of all things fishy and crustacean, but with an eclectic choice to pamper all palates. The dishes here conjure up familiar Greek standards, but also recreate some rare finds and present them with a with a bold, urban edge. It’s innovative, without being over-thought. Expect unusual and unpretentious pairings such as Red mullet “Savoro” style with tomato, rosemary and pickled raisins or a spring salad bursting with flavor with strawberries,

beetroot, bryonia leaves, Louza cured ham and Xinomizithra (fried whey cheese), Giouvetsaki – orzo pasta-andprawn ‘risotto’with smoked tomatoes and French parsley or Cabbage dolma stuffed with minced cockerel and served with a tomato and lime sauce. A remarkable play on textures and seasonings, the lunch menu priced at a modest 23 euros for a 5-course meal, is terrific value-for-money. The 7-course signature tasting menu at 40 euros is what can only be described as a heavenly tease on the tastebuds. Vassilenas - it’s always good to return to an old friend of a restaurant and find it in good health, refreshed and keen to try a few exotic new things. • Vassilenas, Vrasidas 13, tel: +30 210.721.0501, www.vassilenas.gr

Spring salad. Strawberries, beetroot, bryonia leaves, Louza cured ham, Xinomizithra fried whey cheese athens insider

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Charcoal grilled brown grouper fillet with vegetables and an artichoke sauce

5 Great Places to Eat in Athens for under €5! You’ve built up a Herculean appetite exploring the city-centre but only have a Spartan budget to satisfy it? Insider shares 5 tasty spots in the Monastiraki area where you can treat yourself to a hearty and delicious feed for under a fiver.

Falafellas

Two friends, one shared passion and a few square meters in the center of Athens have been the key ingredients behind the wildly-popular street food fave, Falafellas, since it opened four years ago in buzzy Aiolou. Year round, locals and tourists alike happily brave lengthy queues to get their hands on one of Falafella’s famous falafel delights, often billed as the best in Athens and we can attest that their homebrewed spicy sauce is reason enough for the wait! Falafel wraps and portions start from €2.50; the giant meatball special is €4.80 and you can wash down this street food hero with a cold beer for €1.50. Aiolou 51, Monastiraki, tel: +30 210.323.9809, find them on Facebook

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Yiaourtaki

Bang centre of Monastiraki Square, Yiaourtaki offers up pancakes and waffles well-furnished with all kinds of tempting taste trimmings such as fruit, chocolate, cheese – even meat - for lovers of this French-via-America specialty. Meanwhile, decadent biscuit chunks can be integrated into the traditional crepe, for extra impact. The specialty here though is fresh or iced natural yogurt, which can be mixed with different sweet ingredients of your choice and sold by the weight. Yiaourtaki thus satisfies your seasonal cravings no matter the weather. Yogurt from €2.70, pancakes from €3.20-6.90€ with chocolate composition, strawberries, cranberries, pistachios and cream. Ermou 82, Monastiraki Square, tel: +30 695 979 1464, find them on Facebook.

Tzatziki

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On always humming Ermou, Tzatziki makes a perfect pit-stop in which to hit the pause on your retail adventures with a delicious dose of Athens’ most popular street food staples. From gyros, to kalamaki, served with traditional or Arabic pita, passing through salads and pies, the choices are many. The famous Greek sauce, the tsatziki, is obviously the flagship ingredient but other sauces are also available to accompany tomatoes, onions, salads, fries, pork or chicken gyros. We can also recommend the vegetarian “chaloumi” wrapped in pita bread with cherry tomatoes, lettuce, gouda and feta, for €3.50. A great place to soak up Greek culinary culture in the heart of the city. Ermou 64, Monastiraki, tel: +30 213.027.2440

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Pink Flamingo Dim Sum

A party on a plate awaits at this popular dim sum destination that shines the spotlight on the famous and very moreish Chinese steamed bun, all packaged up in pretty pink paper that’s printed with pink feathers! With just a handful of sidewalk tables and a small upstairs area, you can choose from three different dim sum versions: vegetarian with peas, sweet potatoes, lentils, curry and ginger, one with shrimp and chicken, and one with pork and ginger. Another highlight is the bao bun (Asian steamed bread) with fillings that change each week. The recipe of the day costs just €4.50. Add 50 cents to 1 euro to upgrade to the “Dim Sum” menu. Skoufou 2-4, tel: +30 210.331.6177, find them on Facebook

Feyrouz

Raise your hand if you’ve heard of a “lachmajoun”? Those of you with your hands down need to remedy that situation immediately with a visit to Feyrouz, a tucked away gastro gem that we guarantee you’ll want to “add to favourites”. Their house specialty are lachmajouns - open, hand-held pastries topped with meat – and they really are in a league of their own: crunchy like a thin crust pizza with the goodness of Middle Eastern cuisine. Run by a family that traces its roots to Antioch in Syria, Feyrouz offers an irresistible proposition of healthy street food. Pair your lachmajoun with a tabbouleh salad or one of the guilt-free soups on offer (you will look at beetroots differently after having tried their soup). The next best thing on the menu are the peinirlis (with rooster, piquant Armenian sausage or pastourma fillings). All served with a warm smile and an engaging story. Everything on the menu ranges from €2.50 to €5. Karori 23 and Aiolou, Monastiraki, tel: +30 213.031.8060, feyrouz.gr

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ince 1993, Pita Pan offers high quality, juicy Greek souvlakis, pitas, skewers and plates, based on S traditional recipes with an elegant, fresh Pita Pan “twist”! Pita Pan restaurants are located in lively neighborhoods, all over Athens, with beautiful verandas, friendly staff and great table service. Ideal for casual dining with family, friends, for business lunches or for a fast-and-furious delivery. PANGRATI: Iofontos 33 & Alkimahou 24, +30 210 725.2525 N.PSICHIKO: Penelope Delta 31 & Sikelianou, +30 210 671.3511 AG. PARASKEVI: Ag. Ioannou & Giavasi 1, +30 210 600.1604 ATHENS METRO MALL: Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Metro Ag. Dimitrios 91

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Blue Fish, meeting shellfish demands An import from Paros, Blue Fish sets up base in Athens with the promise of seaspray and island-charm at two distinct but equally attractive locales: Plaka and Vouliagmeni

hef George Oikonomidis reworks the magic with which he wooed tourists and locals in Naoussa on Paros and brings his unique brand of Mediterranean-Japanese seafood cuisine to Athens. His lovely Greek-Tunisian wife, Janet, meanwhile makes sure that the staff are not just attentive but have that winning quality of taking initiatives that leave lasting impressions. (When Athens Insider reviewed the restaurant, one of the diners was a hard-to-please vegan and the staff delivered with finesse!) In Vouliagmeni, feet in the water: Located in Vouliagmeni’s idyllic, amphitheatrical bay, just below En Plo, Blue Fish, with its stone walls, white tables and rustic décor sets the tone for an unhurried meal. This is the closest you can get to having a meal on the water and what’s more, unlike its cheesier and pricier seaside counterparts serving mediocre frozen calamars and soggy fries, the food here is a delightfully engaging play on textures and flavours. The chef here skillfully combines the simplicity and purity of Greek cuisine with the refinement and sophistication of Japanese techniques to present some masterfully executed dishes. Perfect for pre- or postswim meals or indeed, in between dips! Blue Fish Vouliagmeni, tel: 210.967.1778 Poseidonos Ave.4, Vouliagmeni In Plaka, history beneath your feet: Plaka, with its meandering alleys, blooming jacarandas and rich history, reeks of charm and character but its gastronomic offerings have remained, until recently, woefully below par – restricted to tourist traps serving lurid fuchsia tarama and tired staples. With more discerning tourists and a new postcrisis consciousness taking hold on young, creative restaurateurs, luckily, that is a thing of the past and newcomers like Blue Fish have dared to break free from the mould by introducing a fish restaurant in a saturated meat environment. •

Blue Fish Plaka, tel: 213.036.4214 Kalogrioni 6, Plaka

What to order: We’d highly recommend that you try the thinly sliced, sea bream carpaccio with a drizzle of olive oil for starters and for mains, take your pick from Scorpion fish linguini with chunky bits of fish to bite into or grouper grilled to perfection in a Robata (a charcoal grill) or for a cheeky play on Greek pasticcio, try the Tuna Bolognese.

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or 80 years, Kostarelos has been perfecting its cheesemaking skills to promote lesser-known Greek cheese varieties and their celebrated feta in every texture imaginable. Now, this excellent family-run store is set to become a real-life catalogue of deli wonders, including a cheese counter that smells like gourmand heaven. WHY GO HERE: For an authentic Greek breakfast, light lunch with great sandwiches and fresh salads or glass of wine and of course, the cheese. Try the latest addition to the Kostarelos cheese platter - sahani - the perfect texture and understated flavour for a saganaki. Move over grilled sahani is crisp on the outside, gooey and tender inside and not a wee bit chewy!

Ever since its launch two years ago, Kostarelos’ Kolonaki store has been a foodie destination to feed gourmand shopping needs and cravings. This elegant urban cheese deli packs a lot of punch: freshly made sandwiches and a staff that likes to share their knowledge of Greek cheese and charcuterie. A perfect starting point for your gourmet adventure in Athens.

WHAT MORE? Kostarelos’ uber-deli in Kolonaki is a terrific place to source memorable, one-of-a-kind gifts, sure to please the fussiest folk back home. The cheese experts, can help with everything from providing advice on preparing the perfect cheese platter to wine and cheese pairings and and in creating a deliciously distinctive and customized gift hamper. You’ll be boosting your cheese IQ too by encountering little-known varieties such as apsaki, melipasto and pinakotyri, which corner a sizeable chunk of shelf- space at Kostarelos. It’s here you’ll also discover that feta, the one Greek cheese you thought you did know, comes in every texture imaginable - as a spread, mild and semi-hard when matured for 4 months, and hard with an intense, sharp aftertaste when matured for 12 months.  Make this temple for those with a love of all things cheese. WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW The deli remains open: Monday - Friday | 08:00 - 21:00, Saturdays | 08:00 - 20:00 Sundays | 10:00 - 18:00 You can snack at Kostarelos: Monday - Saturday | 08:00 - 22:00 Sundays | 10:00 - 18:00 Don’t underestimate the amount of stuff you’ll be tempted to buy!• Kostarelos is located at Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32, Kolonaki, tel: + 30 210.725.9000 W: kostarelos.gr

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kostarelosgr

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Celebrating all things cheese

WHAT TO ORDER: Cheese, and plenty of it. There’s an entire lifetime’s worth of hard, soft, mild, stinky, streaky, creamy, aged, young, and old blocks and wheels on display at any time; ask the cheesemongers for a recommendation based on your preferences. Sit and take a breather from your shopping exertions and refuel with one of Kostarelos’ elevated sandwich options. We highly recommend their new range: brioche with soft feta spread, tomatos and bacon with mayonnaise truffle or the graviera cheese and smoked pork with béchamel sauce and honey mustard. Also, here is an exceptional case when the dessert might actually be lighter and healthier than your meal. Kostarelos’ strained yoghurts paired with nuts and fruity toppings is the perfect happy ending to your meal.

Plate Expectations Keeping up with Athens’ giddy gourmet revolution is almost a full-time gig these days. Every week, another exciting new dining destination seems to open somewhere in the capital, adding extra garnish to Athens’ already rich culinary arsenal. Not that we’d dream of complaining; quite the opposite, we can’t get enough of hearing about these new gourmet hot spots (and nor can you from what you tell us!). Introducing 4 of the city’s most eligible new dining addresses for you to discover.

ZAATAR Recently opened in the woody suburb of Nea Erythraia, Zaatar seeks to blend Greek tradition with invention, highlighting locally-sourced Greek ingredients and products. Executive Chef Prasatzis Chrysostomos takes the helm with 17 years of proven experience, much of which was around Greek cities and islands. The menu showcases colourful Hellenic dishes like the catfish with Cycladic cheeses and lamb saganaki. Enjoy a hearty Greek meal or take a seat at the bar and unwind to a slower suburban rhythm. Chimarras 7, Nea Eritrea, tel +30 210.807.0969

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NAMI TEMAKI Nami (it means “wave” in Japanese) offers the full flotilla of standard sushi den fixtures that Greeks have now acquired a taste for in a stylish space on Glyfada’s hip n’ happening Kiprou. Prices are mid-range, and alongside the hand-held temaki seaweed rolls, maki, nigiri and sashimi that define the menu, those who don’t ‘do’ raw, will also find many other tempting options such as the shrimp tempura, temaki beef and salmon with soba noodles. Nami’s wave-like designer interior, cut-above cocktails and jazzy vibe have made this well-located venue a hotspot for southside aesthetes - but families are made to feel welcome too.

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Kiprou 65, Glyfada. tel. +210.898.5555

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SCORPINA A well-lit and elegant venue with a celebrated affinity for all things fish, Scorpinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu is cause for thoughtful deliberation. Crayfish carpaccio with truffle sauce and beetroot sprouts? Monkfish stuffed with shrimps and teriyaki? Shrimp ceviche with citrus and jalapenos? Chef Yannis Liakos has meticulously crafted an expansive and inventive selection of marine morsels that successfully taps into and modernizes Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history of fish. On the grill, sashimi, tartar or contemporary Athenian; however you want it, Scorpina delivers the real sea to your plate. Grigoriou Xenopoulou 2, Neo Psychiko, tel. +30 210.672.2223

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WOLVES OF KITCHEN What once started as a consulting agency for culinary enterprises has, since 2017, become a hot entity in its own right with the debut of the first Wolves of Kitchen in Mykonos. Stellar success on the Island of Winds has led the wolf pack to expand yet again, to Athens. Situated at the heart of leafy Psychiko, Wolves of Kitchen assumes a laid-back aesthetic with an openkitchen plan where patrons can observe preparation of the true protagonist here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; smoked meat. In the morning, one can enjoy the brunch menu of global delights from French toast to pancakes and eggs prepared any which way. Later in the day, Wolves of Kitchen boasts fresh fish and pasta for the less carnivorous visitors, but one would be remiss to leave before sampling the outstanding Tomahawk steak.

Dim. Vasiliou 16, Neo Psychiko, tel. +30 210.671.3997

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kaleidoscope Let Food Unite Us Support the Refugee Food Festival with Athens Insider from June 19 to June 23! To coincide with World Refugee Day on June 20, Athens Insider will stage an innovative culinary encounter, in partnership with UNHCR (United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees) and the French organisation Home Sweet Food, that will match refugee chefs in Greece with kindred restaurants around the capital from June 19 to . Following up on the huge success of the Refugee Food Festival last year, Athens Insider is proud to co-host this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extended edition in Athens and on Lesbos.The other cities who will be celebrating include Paris, Bordeaux, Lyon, Marseille, Strasbourg, Amsterdam, Brussels, Madrid, Cape Town, San Francisco and New York. THE CONCEPT To create awareness in this humanitarian initiative that uses the universal power of food to change how we see refugees. The idea is simple: during the festival, the regular menus of our partner restaurants will be enriched with dishes created by our refugee chefs for patrons to enjoy. CHANGE Perception EAT WELL Differently! ACCELERATE Professional integration JOIN US! For information and reservations, visit refugeefoodfestival.com

Images from RFF 2017, Athens by Y. Kyvernitis

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