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Epic Climbs Journey to the European Alps, the Himalaya, the Karakoram Range, and the polar region of North America.
Climbing Boots The 1938 alpine boots were leather and nailed but three of the successful party also used crampons. Crampons are essential with Vibram soles. Modern climbers wear insulated double-boots. Nails and Cleats
Died later on Nanga Parrbat
At first it was said that there was a jinx on the women who had climbed K2, but high altitude mountaineering is always a dangerous activity. Up to and including the 2008 season a total of 302 people had reached the summit of K2, 31 of whom had been killed descending.
speed ClimB The fastest ascent so far, though not his first, was made by Swiss guide Ueli Steck, solo, in 2 hours 47 minutes in February 2008.
Climbing boot soles were nailed until the cleated rubber Vibram sole—invented by Vitale Bramani in1935—came into general use in the 1950s.
K2’S deadly toll Alison Hargreaves, an English mother of two with a fine alpine record, climbed Everest solo, without oxygen, in 1995. But three months later she was blown to her death descending from the summit of K2 in a violent storm.
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Experienced climbers had their own favorite nails and nailing patterns. (1) the hard steel Tricouni (2) the soft iron Clinker (3) the Star Mugger.
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Lauper Route Scottish North East Pillar Slovenian Route Harlin Direct Route Metanoia Japanese Direct 1938 Route Ghillini-Piola Direct The Swan-song Ochsner-Brunner Route
» Transparent layers reveal the inner
Filming the eiger sanction
of geological features.
» Colourful illustrations show the planet’s land, sea and atmosphere in detail.
EARTH
approaching the summit
crevasse danger
This lightweight tripod could be rigged almost anywhere to dangle climbers or camermen.
In 1974 the actor and director Clint Eastwood made the bold decision to film the novel Eiger Sanction, a spy thriller set on and around the Eiger’s North Face. A strong team of British and American climbers and mountain cameramen joined the actors at Kleine Scheidigg and spent six weeks shooting some spectacular film, although the most dangerous areas of the North Face were avoided.
Even on flat glaciers the crevasses are deep and often hidden. Wise climbers travel roped-up so that if they do fall into a crevasse they have a good chance of climbing back to the top.
Clint Eastwood
glacier highway
massive mountain
amed after the 25th President of the United States but known to the indigenous Alaskans as Denali (“The Great One”), Mount McKinley is a colossal, icy complex of ridges, spurs, buttresses, and hanging glaciers. It rises to twin summits, dwarfing the other peaks of the Alaska Range. Situated between the warm, damp Pacific and the cold Alaskan interior, the mountain, just 150 miles (240 km) from the Arctic Circle, is a crucible of particularly evil weather. Several early attempts to climb Mount McKinley failed. One group of climbers, in 1906, claimed to have reached the summit but this was later found to have been a deception. In 1910 a party of six did reach the North Summit but it was not until 1913 that Hudson Stuck, Archdeacon of the Yukon, with three companions, claimed the South Summit 850 feet (259 m ) higher. The few climbers who reached the summit before 1951, followed a route on the mountain’s northeast side, via the Muldrow Glacier.
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Having reached the summit of Mount McKinley, at 20,320 feet (6,194 m) the highest peak in North America, two climbers carefully descend the summit ridge toward Denali Pass.
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Except in emergency, aircraft are forbidden to land on glaciers in the declared wilderness area surrounding Mount McKinley, so climbers face long ski approaches up highly crevassed glacier highways. Towing their gear on pulques—simple lightweight sleds originating in Lappland— these climbers descend the Muldrow Glacier.
Mount McKinley, its South and North summits conspicuous, is seen here from a distance of some 50 miles (80 km). This view is from the northeast near Polychrome Mountain on the Denali Highway.
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The culminating peak of the 400-mile (644-km) Alaska Range, Mount McKinley stands at the heart of the Denali National Park. It is only 130 miles (210 km) from the state capital, Anchorage.
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Take a journey through our planet Earth.
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Wander through the minotaur’s maze, find out what’s up with Medusa’s hairdo and much more in this essential guide to mythology from around the world. From ancient American plains to the Greek underworld and beyond, classic characters and tall tales spring to life in this uniquely illustrated must-have for lovers of myths, legends, and folklore.
HISTORY courageous characters! £12.99
£12.99 I S B N 978-1-78342-046-9
Dan Green David Lyttleton
HEROES OF HISTORY
Dic tion FULLY ILLUSTRATED
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workings of Earth’s natural systems.
» 3D cross-sections provide unique views
H Explore the lives of 24 of the world’s # most outstanding individuals, through hee•tahengaging [cheet-uh] noun, plural cheetahs . a large animal of the cat I C narratives, fictionalized T IO NA amily, having a small and spotted coat. It lives wild in Africa and diary entrieshead and informative outhern timelines. Asia and the fastest-running animal in the world. FromisApache warrior di•no•saur [dye-nuh-sore] noun, plural dinosaurs. one of the group of Geronimo to Queen Elizabeth I, and the struggles of Mahatma inside INFINITY HORSE and find out how the power and ong-tailedfrom reptiles that died out milof long-tailed reptiles that died tepout intelligence of this animal has helped to shape the course of human Gandhi to the brilliant mind of Marie history. Discover how the horse evolved from animals no bigger than Curie, meet history’s most remarkable dogs; enter the world of the famous warriors who rode their steeds to victory; go on the trail of the most endangered members of the horse r•bit [or-bit] noun, plural orbits. Science. 1. the roughly circular path warriors, rulers, explorers, rebels, family and discover what future awaits them; and witness the hat a planet, moon,and or trail other heavenly innovators blazers, and body follows around acrobatics of the Hungarian horsemenMeet who ridethe five horses at once.most world’s nother discover heavenly Moon makes an orbit of the Earth about thebody: secretsThe of their greatness. remarkable, clever and
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Includes poster-size fold-out pages
EXPLORE OUR AMAZING PLANET from the deepest ocean floor to highest mountains and beyond.
MACMILLAN
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EARTH Epic Climbs
FULLY REVISED AND UPDATED EDITION
AN MORE TH
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dramatic skyline
The Great One
Eastwood, no climber, bravely insisted on performing his own stunts. Here he prepares for a “fall” scene with some 3,000 feet (1,000 m) of space beneath his feet
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At just above 16,000 feet, (4,800 m) a climber slowly ascends the West Buttress crest, the Regular Route used by most parties. The previous camp can be seen in the Genet Basin far below. Mount Foraker, the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, rises beyond.
multiple routes As climbers sought fresh challenges, more new routes on the North Face were tried for the first time. Each route involves many difficult sections and reaching the summit is an achievement for even the most experienced climber.
In a sequence based on the Toni Kurtz tragedy—although not this time in a fierce storm—Clint Eastwood dangles over the Stollenloch gallery window.
Wanda Rutkiewicz, from Poland, led the first all-female team up the Eigerwand in 1973, making the second ascent of the new North Pillar route. An experienced high altitude mountaineer and the leading female climber of her day, she disappeared attempting a solo climb in 1992 on Kangchenjunga in the East Nepal Himalaya.
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CL U se D E e S L A -t h A M Y E rou A R S g h Z IN G !
Nives Meroi, Italy Yuka Komatsu, Japan Eun-Sun Oh, Korea Cecilie Skog, Norway Mi-Sun Go, Korea
Wanda Rutkiewicz, from Poland, was the leading female climber of her generation. She reached the summit of K2 in 1986, descending safely when 13 others died. She disappeared attempting Kangchenjunga, solo, in 1992.
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Once a rope can be got down to a fallen climber he should be able to climb to the surface, assuming no serious injury. This strenuous technique requires a jumar device or prussik knot, which slide up a rope but lock under tension.
CourageouS and SKilled
Serious Challenge Many consider K2 the most beautiful, probably the most difficult, and undoubtedly the most dangerous of the world’s fourteen highest peaks—those above 26,000 feet (8,000 m). A climber has to be not only competent but also well acclimatized to get high enough on K2 to make a summit bid. But 23,000 feet (7,000 m) is no place to wait for better weather, and a storm at 26,000 feet (8,000 m) is a fight for survival. Descending is particularly dangerous. Once the summit has been reached adrenalin is exhausted, tiredness dulls the senses, and gathering dusk makes route-finding more difficult.
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CrevaSSe reSCue devaStating forCe This avalanche (left), born of a small serac collapse high on K2, has swept down more than 6,500 feet (2,000 m) to become a lethal mass of powdered ice travelling at astonishing speed.
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anger is ever-present on a big mountain, affecting even expert climbers. Falls due to carelessness are rare; the main dangers come from nature. Storms can be killers, particularly on K2 where the high camps are easily cut off. Both mind and body deteriorate swiftly at high altitude where pulmonary edema, a life-threatening condition, phlebitis, and some other potentially fatal ailments are impossible to treat. Avalanche danger is always present and while unstable new snow is dangerous, Karakoram ice avalanches can be unpredictable and horrific. All ice gradually moves downhill and when a serac finally collapses it sweeps all before it. Concealed snow bridges, which are almost impossible to detect, can collapse, sending climbers falling into a deep crevasse.
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After the Pioneers
nce it was known to be possible, the North Face climb was first repeated in 1947 by the great French guides Lionel Terray and Louis Lachenal, and by 13 further parties in the following decade. Tragedies still occurred but more and more of the best alpinists succeeded on the North Face and new challenges were accepted—a winter ascent, solo, and first female ascents, and then a direct ascent straight up the center. By the 1980s the Eigerwand had become the goal of ambitious alpinists of every nation and the most intrepid were forging new routes. Global warming and shrinking ice fields have increased the dangers but there are now some 30 different lines. Winter has become the favorite season for climbers to try the North Face. The weather is more stable and modern clothing and equipment suit the conditions.
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Large fold-out posters and gatefolds show the maps and the story of the route in a graphic style.
long way down If the snow collapses, a climber is likely to drop into a dark abyss to jam far below where the icy walls converge. Farther below, the slot continues down, fathomless.
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EPIC CLIMBS
•Five great stories of epic climbs Pioneers who found the way to high-altitude •summits on rock, climbing on ice, finding •aClimbing foothold •Photographs, illustrations and fascinating diagrams maps show the many routes climbers have created •toDetailed challenge their expertise
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Alan Dyer
Find out about the dangers of rock falls, avalanches, sudden blizzards, and hidden crevasses.
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See Inside EARTH
A d v e n t u r e
Discover how mountaineers reached the summit of some of the world’s highest mountains for the first time.
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Myths and legends as they’ve never been told before!
Dan Green David Lyttleton
2019 Children’s catalogue
Y
C ONC ISE ENC YC LOPEDIA OF THE
2019
Children’s catalogue