Lilli Jeffries – BA (Hons) Costume – BPC DanceLive Supervision Bible

Page 1


Designs

Research

Budget Sheets

Schedules

Measurements

Dancers Costume Pages

Amy – ‘The Wave

Angel –

‘The Wave’

Casey – ‘A Friend’

Chantelle – ‘The Wave’

Charley – ‘The Wave’

Ebony – ‘The Wave’

Jamie – ‘The Wave’

Jenny –

‘The Wave’

Lydia – ‘A Friend’

Malakhai– ‘A Friend’

Shannon – ‘A

Friend’

Stacey – ‘The Wave’

Rehearsal Reports

Back Stage Photos

Dressing Notes

Dressing Notes

• Give Clothes a freshen up using Fresh Up

• Give clothes a spray using anti-bacterial fabric spray

• Once Dancers are in costumes make sure scrim or draping isn’t hanging too low

• Cut off any excess if needed

• Check that draping is secured onto base costume

• Help with braiding fabric into hair if needed

• Make sure socks, all jewellery, watches and hair ties are off

Laundry List

Statement

Suppliers List

Amazon

Website: https://www.amazon.co.uk/

AUB Costume Store

Arts University Bournemouth

Costume Department

7 Fernbarrow

Wallisdown

Poole

BH12 5HH

Website: https://store.aub.ac.uk/

British Heart Foundation

161 High St

Poole

Dorset

BH15 1AU

Website: https://www.bhf.org.uk/

Ebay

Website: https://www.ebay.co.uk/

Going for Bust

44-46 High St

Poole

Dorset

BH15 1BT

Website: http://goingforbust.co.uk/

Phone No.: 0800 496 1081

Phone No.: 01202 533011

Phone No.: 01202 668542

Phone No.: -

Phone No.: 01202 280574

Lewis-Manning Hospice Care

116a High St

Poole

Dorset

BH15 1DF

Phone No.: 01202 119310

Website: https://lewis-manning.org.uk/

PDSA

143 High St

Poole

Dorset

BH15 1AS

Website: https://www.pdsa.org.uk/

Poundland

Dolphin Centre

Units 16-17 Falkland Square

Poole

Dorset

BH15 1ER

Website: https://www.poundland.co.uk/

Primark

48-52 Commercial Road

Bournemouth

Dorset

BH2 5LR

Website: https://www.primark.com/en-gb

Phone No.: 01202 675281

Phone No.: 01202 649049

Phone No.: 01202 589043

Sense

Phone No.: -

Website: https://www.sense.org.uk/shop/charity-shops/

Superdrug

377 Wimborne Road

Winton

Bournemouth

Dorset BH9 2AQ

Website: https://www.superdrug.com/

T.K.Maxx

Unit D

Westfield

Arial Way

London W12 7GF

Phone No.: 01202 530522

Phone No.: 020 45532878

Website: https://www.tkmaxx.com/uk/en/

Universal Textiles

35-37 Goldhawk Road

London W12 8QQ

Website: -

Phone No.: 020 8743 4154

Whaleys

Phone No.: 01274 576718

Harris Court

Great Horton

Bradford

West Yorkshire

BD7 4EQ

Website: https://www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk/

WHSmiths

355 Wimborne Road

Winton

Bournemouth

Dorset

BH9 2AD

Website: https://www.whsmith.co.uk/

Phone No.: 01202 525229

Etsy Shops

MBBLondonGoods

Website: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/MBBLondonGoods?ref=yrpurchases

Libaclothing

Website: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/Libaclothing?ref=yr_purchases

CulturalRoots

Website: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CulturalRoots?ref=yrpurchases

TheKarmicChameleon

Website: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TheKarmicChameleon?ref=yrpurch ases

EcoYogaProducts

Website: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/EcoYogaProducts?ref=yrpurchases

Designer Breakdown

Research

Breakdown Lecture Notes

20 February 2024

• Looking at subtle techniques

• Costume at the national theatre book has a section about their textile and dye department

• Weasley clothes are worn, faded and discoloured as they always wear hand me down clothes

• They all fit together, there colours match (browns, reds, oranges, greys)

• Garments can just be dulled down to match

• The hobbit has lots of textile work to make them look more handmade and connected to nature

• Bedknobs and Broomsticks: the children have broken down clothes as they were poor

• Pride and Predigest: bottom of the skirts have mud stains from trailing on the floor and they can't afford new clothes.

• When breaking down a costume you need to consider the garments materials as different materials take dye differently and break differently

• The colour scheme to all the costume fit together, complement each other or clash with each other.

• Areas of a garment that would have the most area of damage such as hems, armpits, pockets, necklines.

• The characters life style or situation.

Dye Samples

Different Dyes and Recipes

Disperse Dye:

Disperse Dye is used for synthetic fibres only such as polyester or semi-synthetic fabrics such as rayon.

All the ingredients need to be diluted in water before going into the bath.

Recipe:

• 1L of hot water

• 1g of dye

• 1ml acetic acid

Procion Dye:

Procion dye is used for natural fibres only, plant-based fabrics such as cotton or animal-based fabrics wool.

All the ingredients need to be diluted in water before going into the bath.

Recipe:

• 1L of cold water

• 1g dye

• 60g salt

• 10g soda ash

Dylon Dye:

Dylon dye can be used for synthetic and natural dyes. All ingredients need to be diluted in water before going in the bath.

Recipe:

• 2L of warm water

• 5g dye

• 30g salt

Natural Dye Samples

After researching tea dyeing, I decided to test what happens to the pigment after changing the pH levels by making a neutral sample of just tea and making two different samples one alkaline and one acidic, which can be changed by using basic household ingredients.

1) Neutral Tea Dying:

• 10 tea bags

• 2l of water

• Boiled water

• With white cotton

2) Acidic Tea Dying:

• 10 tea bags

• 2l of water

• 100ml of rice vinegar

• Boiled water

• With white cotton

3) Alkaline Tea Dying:

• 10 tea bags

• 2l of water

• 3tbs of baking pounder

• Boiled water

• With white cotton

After adding the water to the tea and vinegar I noticed that the tea dispersed into the water slower and after stirring it I noticed that the mixture was more translucent than the neutral tea mixture I made. When adding the water to the tea and baking powder the water frothed up but after stirring and the frothing went down, I noticed that the mixture was a lot darker than the neutral mixture.

Tye-Dye Samples

For The Scrim and Muslin

Breakdown Samples

Costume Outcomes

Malakhai’s Costume

Stacy’s Vest

Amy’s Top

Jenny’s Top

Charley’s Blouse

Jamie’s Shirt

The Dresses

The White Vests

Close ups of back of neckline and hem of vest

The Harem Trousers

Outcomes

Experimental Photos

Group Photo

Show Photos

Bibliography:

Adeel et el (2021) Eco-friendly dying of cotton fabric with waist tea leavesbased tannin natural dye [Online] Available: https://journal.gnest.org/sites/default/files/Submissions/gnest03456/gnest 03456published.pdf [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Anderson, AA (2024) ADPRO [Online] Available: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/what-is-shibor [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Bayona, J.A (2012) The Impossible [Film]. Thailand. Apaches Entertainment

Briannica Encyclopaedia (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/jazz-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Britannica Encyclopaedia (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/break-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Britannica Encyclopaedia (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/ballroom-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Brown, CB (2024) Buzzfeed [Online] Available: https://www.buzzfeed.com/consheabrown1/2004-cringe-and-iconic-fashiontrends [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Dance Dispatches (N.D) Dance Dispatches [Online] Available: https://www.dancedispatches.com/dance-genres/ [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Donnard, SD (2016) Forgotten Tribes [Online] Available: https://www.forgottentribes.com/blogs/lifestyle/118994307-a-brief-history-ofharem-pants-by-forgotten-tribes [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Encyclopaedia Britannica (2023) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/place/Aceh [Accessed: 01 February 2024]

Encyclopaedia Britannica (2024) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/ballet [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Encyclopaedia Britannica (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/pas-delevation [Accessed: 13 Match 2024]

Fagan, AF (2023) National Geographic [Online] Available: https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/beloved-yet-bannedthe-surprising-history-of-tie-dye [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Frank, RF (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/tap-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

HAOK (2023) enimane [Online] Available: https://www.enimane.com/blogs/news/the-history-of-harem-pantsancient-origins-to-modern-fashion [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Havergal, VH (N.D) Gaurdian.co.uk [Online] Available: https://www.theguardian.com/notesandqueries/query/0,5753,1779,00.html#:~:text=THE%20REASON%20is%20that%20tea,Coffee%20doe s%20not%20contain%20tannin. [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

HistoryPlex & Buzzle.com (N.D) Historyplex [Online] Available: https://historyplex.com/tie-dye-history [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

IMDb (N.D) IMDb [Online] Available: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1649419/ [Accessed: 02 February 2024)

Masterclass (2021) MasterClass [Online] Available: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-contemporary-dance [Accessed: 14 March 2024]

Mercer, DM (N.D) What’s causing those awful tea stains? [Online] Available: https://iufost.org/iufostold/wp-content/uploads/Tea%20Stains.pdf [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Red Bull Editorial Team (2020) Red Bull [Online] Available: https://www.redbull.com/us-en/history-of-breakdancing [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Reddy, KR (2021) Fashion History Timeline [Online] Available: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/2000-2009/ [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Roberts, CR (2024) Steezy [Online] Available: https://www.steezy.co/posts/what-is-jazz-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Rodgers, L (2014) BBC [Online] Available: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/worldasia-30034501 [Accessed: 01 February 2024]

Salpico, IS (2021) Decanter [Online] Available: https://www.decanter.com/learn/tannins-45814/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Smith, MS (2019) Skull and Sword [Online] Available: https://theskullandsword.com/tie-dye-history-and-its-uses/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

The Hippy Clothing Co (2013) The Hippy Clothing [Online] Available: https://www.hippyclothingco.co.uk/blogs/hippy-clothing-blog/11083489-theremarkable-history-of-harem-pants [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

The Imperial Society of Teaching of Dance (N.D) The Imperial Society of Teaching of Dance [Online] Available: https://www.istd.org/dance/dancegenres/street/history-of-street-dance/ [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (N.D) The Met [Online] Available: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156069 [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

The Victoria and Albert Museum (N.D) V&A [Online] Available: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/adire-tied-and-dyed-indigo-textiles [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Tietodye (2023) Tie to Dye [Online] Available: https://www.tietodye.com/ancient-origins-tie-dye-history/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Unknown (2014) GeoGarage blog [Online] Available: https://blog.geogarage.com/2014/12/tsunami-hit-nations-markanniversary.html [Accessed: 01 February 2024]

Unknown (N.D) Chandye [Online] Available: https://www.chandye.com/history-of-tie-dye/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Unknown (N.D) The Craft Atlas [Online] Available: https://craftatlas.co/crafts/shibori [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Unknown (N.D) Treasurie [Online] Available: https://blog.treasurie.com/whatis-tie-dyeing/ [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Unknown, N (2016) The Artyologist [Online] Available: https://www.theartyologist.com/harem-pants-interesting-scandalous-history/ [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Weston, PW (2023) Fashion-era [Online] Available: https://fashionera.com/trends/2004-fashion-trends/ [Accessed: 13 March 2023]

Wikipedia (2023) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenols [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effectofthe2004IndianOceanearthquake onThailand [Accessed: 02 March 2024]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004IndianOceanearthquakeandtsunami [Accessed: 01 February 2024]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harem [Accessed: 12 March 2023]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyphenol [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biomolecule [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Wikipedia (2024) Wikipedia [Online] Available: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tannin [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Win et el (2020) Extraction of Tannin as a Natural Mordant from Tea Leaf for Dyeing of Cotton Cloth pp. 48-55 [Online] Available: https://meral.edu.mm/records/5809 [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Reference List:

Britannica Encyclopaedia (N.D) Britannica [Online] Available: https://www.britannica.com/art/break-dance [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Masterclass (2021) MasterClass [Online] Available: https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-contemporary-dance [Accessed: 14 March 2024]

Figure List:

Figure 1-12: Millie Charlcraft (2024) Design influence Photos (2024) In Possession of Autor.

Figure 13: Movie Poster for The Impossible (Bayona, 2012), Fanart.TV, Movie Poster for the film The Impossible (Bayona,2012) [Online Image] Available: https://fanart.tv/movie/80278/the-impossible/ [Accessed: 2nd February 2024]

Figure 14: Map of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, Geo Garbage blog, Map showing the time of the Indian Ocean tsunami’s first wave [Online Image] Available: https://blog.geogarage.com/2014/12/tsunami-hit-nations-markanniversary.html [Accessed: 01 February 2024]

Figure 15: Arial View of damage from Tsunami, Britannica, Arial View of the damage done by the 2004 Tsunami [Online Image] Available: https://www.britannica.com/event/Indian-Ocean-tsunami-of-2004 [Accessed: 01 February 2004]

Figure 16: areal view of Khoa Lak after the 2004 Indian ocean tsunami, NZZ, satellite image of Khoa Lak after the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami [Online Image] Available: https://www.nzz.ch/spezial/tsunami2004/laecheln-umjeden-preis-ld.1044598 [Accessed: 2nd March 2024]

Figure 17: Identified bodies after the tsunami, Gettyimages, Identified bodies after the 2004 tsunami [Online Image] Available: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/hundreds-of-corpseskilled-by-tsunami-waiting-to-be-news-photo/10913071 [Accessed: 2 March 2024]

Figure 18: Bodies after the tsunami, Gettyimages, Bodies from the aftermath of the 2004 tsunami [Online Image] Available: https://www.gettyimages.at/detail/nachrichtenfoto/aftermath-of-the-tsunamithat-hit-the-khao-lak-bay-nachrichtenfoto/109130510 [Accessed: 2 March 2024]

Figure 19: Algerian Lady in traditional dress, Pinterest, A Lady in Traditional Algerian Dress [Online Image] Available: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/30469734968810411/

Figure 20: Amelia Bloomer, Pinterest, Amelia Bloomer in her scandalous dress [Online Item] Available: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/3799980923284358/ [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Figure 21: One of Poirets 1002nd Night Ball Garment, The Artologist, one of Paul Poirets 1002nd Night Ball Garments [Online Image] Available: https://www.theartyologist.com/harem-pants-interesting-scandalous-history/ [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Figure 22: 80s Style Harem trousers, The Artologist, 80s Style Harem Trousers or ‘Hammer Pants’ [Online Image] Available: https://www.theartyologist.com/harem-pants-interesting-scandalous-history/ [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Figure 23: Harem Trousers, Pinterest, Red Harem Trousers [Online Image]

Available: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/939774647234149165/ [Accessed: 12 March 2024]

Figure 24: Venessa Hudgens and Miley Cyrus on the red Carpet, popsugar, Venessa Hudgens and Miley Cyrus on the rede carpet for a Disney show release [Online Image] Available: https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/Disney-Star-StyleTransformations-40837174/amp [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Figure 25: Heather and Megan Vandergeld from White Chicks (Wayans,2004), IMDb, Heather (Jamie King) and Megan (Brittany Daniel) Vandergeld from White Chicks (Wayans, 2004) [Online Image] Available: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0381707/mediaviewer/rm2721189120/ [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Figure 26: Ashley Tisdale, Stunning Plans.com, Ashley Tisdale at a red carpet [Online Image] Available: https://hqproductreviews.com/ [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Figure 27: Anne Hathaway, Odessy, Anne Hathaway at an Ella Enchanted (O’Haver, 2004) Press tour [Online Image] Available: https://www.theodysseyonline.com/the-00s-the-fashion-decade-that-shouldnever-get-revival [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Figure 28: Swan Lake, The New York Times, The White Swan in the Swan Lake [Online Image] Available: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/18/arts/dance/review-swan-lake-royalballet-liam-scarlett.html [Accessed: 13 March 2024]

Figure 29: Modern Dance, Dance Poise, Modern (Contemporary) Dance [Online Image] Available: https://dancepoise.com/facts-about-modern-dance [Accessed: 14 March 2024]

Figure 30: Street Dance, March with Us, Street (Hip-Hop) Dance [Online Image] Available: https://marchwithus.com.au/5-different-street-dance-styles-youmay-not-know [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Figure 31: Jazz Dance, Blogger, jazz Dane Pose [Online Image] Available: https://www.blogger.com/blogin.g?blogspotURL=https://morganrcn.blogspot.c om/2021/06/jazz-dancer-15-most-famous-jazzdancers.html&type=blog&bpli=1&pli= [Accessed: 15 March 2024]

Figure 32-36: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Budget Tables [Tables] In Possession of Author. Figure 37-38: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Schedule Tables [Tables] In Possession of Author.

Figure 39-91: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Mesurment tables and Photos [Photograghs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 92-246: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Fitting Photos and costume Breakdowns [Photogrphs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 247: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Rehearsal reports [Table] In Possession of Author.

Figure 248-249: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Backstage Photos [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 250-251: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Dressing Items [Table] In Possession of Author.

Figure 252: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Laundry List [Table] In Possession of Author.

Figure 253: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Sustainability Statement [Table] In Possession of Author.

Figure 254-259: Millie Chalcraft (2024) Design Images [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 260: Bandhani tie dye Patterns, Exotic India, Bandhani tie dye patterns dyed green and blue [Online Image] Available: https://www.exoticindiaart.com/product/textiles/bandhani-tie-dye-salwarkameez-fabric-from-gujarat-smi79/ [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Figure 261: Peruvian tie dye patchwork, Maharam, Ancient Peruvian tie dye patchwork [Online Image] Available: https://www.maharam.com/stories/simon-alexandertie-dye-origins [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Figure 262: Different Shibori patterns, The Crafts Atlas, Different Shibori patterns patchwork [Online Image] Available: https://craftatlas.co/crafts/shibori [Accessed: 26 March 2024]

Figure 263: Adire Oniko, V&A, Adire Oniko example [Online Image] Available: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/adire-tied-and-dyed-indigo-textiles [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 264: Women wearing tie dye form the 1920s, WWD, Marceline Day wearing tie dye in the 1920s [Online Image] Available: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gallery/tie-dye-through-theyears/marceline-day-6127977-portrait/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 265: Market Stool selling tie dye products in the 60s, The Hundreds, Market stool in the 1960s selling tie dye products [Online Image] Available: https://thehundreds.com/blogs/content/tie-dye-isnt-dying-its-thriving [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 266: Fabric in tea dye bath, woodlark blog, fabric in tea dyeing bath [Online Image] Available: https://woodlarkblog.com/natural-dyeing-with-tea/ [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 267: Chemical structure of a tannin molecule, ResearchGate, Chemical structure of a tannin molecule [Online Image] Available: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Sturcture-of-tanninmoleculefig1324494551 [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 268: Chemical structure of cotton fibre, Textile Learner, Chemical structure of cotton fibre [Online Image] Available: https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2014/10/chemical-composition-of-cottonfiber.html [Accessed: 28 March 2024]

Figure 269-279: Lilli Jeffries (2024) National Theatre Archive [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 280-338: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Dye samples [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 239-345: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Breakdown Samples [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 346-431: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Breakdown Outcomes [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 432-435: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Experimental Photos [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 436: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Group Photo [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

Figure 437-445: Lilli Jeffries (2024) Show Photos [Photographs] In Possession of Author.

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