Recovery by Inspired Bali

BALI

Inspired

october november december 2013

The Recovery Issue inquire

illuminate

imagine

BALI

Inspired

The Recovery Issue october november december 2013

welcome ,

Managing Director manager@inspired-bali.com Editor editor@inspired-bali.com Art Director art@inspired-bali.com Designer Lokah www.lokah-photography.com Sales sales@inspired-bali.com Publisher publisher@inspired-bali.com General Inquires hello@inspired-bali.com Inspired Bali reserves the right to refuse any advertisements which don’t complement the magazine’s vision. We are not responsible for any copyright infringements for images supplied to us by writers or advertisers.

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We are delighted to share with you our new layout and design — all a result of your feedback. Please keep the comments coming so that we can continue to evolve and better serve our community. In this issue, we explore the complexities of recovery. Each one of us will find ourselves on the continuum of recovery at various points in our life. What can we learn from each other, from Bali, from our own healing, from history, from research, and from our own contemplative practices? May the stories shared in this issue inspire us to restore and heal our planet, ourselves, and of course, each other.

Cover photo of Pak Man Arya Dunung, by Carol Da Riva

Inspired Bali 2013 |

CONTENTS: insidealways

On The

Inspired by:

Island

In The

Photo essay:

Olivier

Street:

Safe

Pouillon

Jalan Gouta-

Childhoods

Endangered

Food Picks:

Film Views:

A Day

Living

Favourite Five

Bakso

Uma

in Bali:

Food

Anwar

Wendy

Lab

Kassel

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CONTENTS: thisissue

Random Acts

Much to

Monkey Mind:

Recovery:

Fasting

Explore:

Ben

50 years in

Forward:

Unkindness:

Rosanna

Tamblyn

Indonesia

Anne Hocket

Maureen

Nicol

Gilbert

Just

Yoga:

The

Discovering

Janet

Breathe: Rob-

Janet

Balian:

Recovery:

DeNeefe

Nicol

Pak Man

Renee

and The

Martyna

Ubud Writers

Sparks

& Readers Festival

Inspired Bali 2013 |

ontheisland UPCOMING

OCTOBER Annual Balinale International Film Festival. Cinema XX1, Beachwalk, Kuta. October 4-10. In its 7th year, this international, non-profit film festival features screenings of international and Indonesian films. Workshops and free seminars offer Indonesian students and young filmmakers an opportunity to learn from established professionals. www. balinale.com Ketut Madra and 100 Years of Balinese Wayang Painting. Museum Puri Lukisan, Main Road, Ubud October 7-November 7. Ubud’s preeminent museum presents an exhibition of wayang painting, the story-telling art based on Bali’s shadow puppet theater. The show highlights the masterful work of Peliatan painter Ketut Madra and includes work of 23 other legendary wayang artists. For those for whom the stories are unfamiliar, a handsome catalog in English gives a fine précis for each painting. www.museumpurilukisan.com

NOVEMBER APEC Leaders Meeting. Nusa Dua. October 8-9. Obama comes to town (again). Every year, the leaders of the The Asia Pacific Economic region (APEC) have an annual meeting. This year it’s in Bali. The island will buzz, traffic will be diverted as far north as Ubud, and word that Obama is coming to visit will spread like wildfire. If you’re planning to travel during this time period, be aware the airport will be closed for up to 10 hours a day on the 6th, 8th and 9th, to facilitate the arrival and departure of world leaders. www.apec2013.or.id Ubud Writers and Reader’s Festival. Various locations in Ubud 11-15 October. In it’s 10th year, this world class literary event just keeps getting better. With a mission to create a “dialogue that transcends race, creed and gender and to celebrate the universal appeal of story and open a window to the treasury of words and ideas”, the event is bound to stimulate something in all of us. This year, notable authors Sebastian Faulks, Lionel Shriver, Tash Aw, and Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler are in the line up, among many others. www.ubudwritersfestival.com

One Breath Jamboree. Tulamben, East Bali October 26-November 3. Check out the first free diving event and competition in Indonesia, with a full week of workshops, presentations and trainings hosted by previous world champions. Organized by two freediving schools based in Bali: Apnea Bali and Freedive Flow. www.onebreathjamboree.com Galungan: All Over Bali October 23-November 2. Celebrated every 210 days, this is one of Bali’s major festivals. Family compound front doors are decorated with tall swaying bamboo poles, called penjors, and adorned with flowers, cakes and fruit (and more recently lights and some store bought accessories). Commemorating good (Dharma) over evil (Adharma), villages come alive with multiple ceremonies and celebrations, making it one of the most magical times of the year.

Inspired Bali 2013 |

ontheisland UPCOMING

NOVEMBER Kuningan: All over Bali. November 2. Celebrated after Galungan, Kuningan celebrates the departure of the spirits. A festive feast marks this final day, similar to the first night of Galungan, this meal is celebrated with yellow rice. National Hero’s Day (Hari Pahlawan): November 10. Indonesia’s Remembrance Day is celebrated annually to commemorate the 1945 Battle of Surabaya, when pro-independent soldiers fought against the British and Dutch troops in part of the Indonesian National Revolution. The government encourages its citizens to revive past glories on this day, including remembering Indonesian soldiers winning independence with the use of sharpened bamboo sticks (bambu runcing). The Power of Culture in Sustainable Development: Nusa Dua November 24-27. As part of The World Cultural Forum, this conference aims to create an arena for a global discussion around cultural diversity in a age of unprecedented globalism. One of this year’s key note speakers is Koffi Annan, former Secretary-General of the UN. Tickets: www.wcfina.org

DECEMBER Traditional Balinese Dance Retreat: Ubud and Lovina. December 9-22. Explore what’s in store for you during an 11-day dancing retreat honouring Tara the goddess, mother and Buddha essence of the enlighted feminine. www.taradhatu.net Animal Training and Enrichment Conference: Bali Marine & Safari Park December 1-5. Join animal lovers and trainers in this first-ever conference. www.balisafarimarinepark.com Institutionalising Smart or Digital fields Capability: Bali December 8-13. The key focus of this conference is advancement in digital fields and smart technologies. www.biztradeshows.com Bali Couples Retreat: Bagus Jati Resort, Ubud. December 4-8. Enjoy 4 days with your partner connecting on a deeper emotional level. Explore ancient tantric techniques in a safe and comfortable environment. www.vasumati.com For up to date listing for New Year’s Eve, check out the FB group, The Bali Party.

Photos of Galungan and Kuningan in Tegallantang Village by Suki Zoë Inspired Bali 2013 |

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Large kites, arriving in Sanur. By Suki ZoĂŤ

ontheisland PREVIOUSLY

SANUR KITE FESTIVAL THE BALI Kite Festival was held this year in Padang Galak, Sanur, at the end of July. The Balinese come together to judge the kite and it’s flyers on launching, design, height, stability in the air and finally, its landing. It’s a tough competition as Bali is rich with master craftsmen, young and old, who construct huge colourful kites that range from bats to ships, doubling up as scarecrows in the sky to scare off birds in the rice fields.

UBUD VILLAGE JAZZ FESTIVAL Located on the vast ground of the Arma (Agung Rai Museum of Art) in Ubud, The Ubud Village Jazz Festival held this past August (9-10) was a highlight after a rainy July. Co-founded by Jakartan brothers Yuri Mahatma and Dian Pratiwi, locals and tourists packed together to listen and dance to an outstanding collection of international artists. Highlights included local artists and renowned guitarist Dewa Budjana and his quintet and Peter Beets from the Netetherlands who displayed tremendous talent and virtuosity in his performance, Ventura. Declared a ‘green festival’, musicians could be seen cycling through the vast grounds of the hotel on donated bicycles, guests were given ample of places to recycle, and LED lights graced the property, as most performances were held after dark.

TEDxUbud TEDxUbud—an independently organized TED (Technology, Entertainment, Design) event—celebrated its third year in lush, graceful and delicious Bali style. Fivelements healing and retreat center in Mambal, south of Ubud, hosted the event on June 1, 2013, welcoming a packed house of 300 participants. The day-long festival included speakers and performers from across Indonesia and around the world with music, dancing, comedy, tragedy, triumph, inspiration, and yo-yos! Inspiring moments abounded with several standing ovations for influential presenters including trafficking activist Ruici Tio, Indonesia’s most powerful female singer Bonita in performance with Indonesian Indie-folk band the Cozy Street Corner, and Japanese world-champion yo-yo performer Black. Director Daniela Burr along with host and co-curator Daniel Ziv led a small army of volunteers to organize the popular event. Applications are already being accepted for TEDxUbud 2014, to be held on August 30, 2014 again at Fivelements. Aspiring speakers may submit a three-minute video pitching their Idea Worth Spreading to: speakers@ tedxubud.com until the end of April 2014. Stay tuned throughout the coming months at tedxubud.com for information about sponsorship opportunities and team applications.

By their website posting in October it looks like we can start to look forward to next year! www.ubudvillagejazzfestival.com

Inspired Bali 2013 |

ontheisland ONGOING

Pitch Black Radio: Monday, Wednesday, Friday 3:30 p.m 5:30 p.m. Sit back, relax and stream into an eclectic musical adventure with charismatic poet, d.j. Kamau. His soulful weekly show with substance, edge and humour is an engaging hour of talk and tunes geared towards a youthful, engaged and globally conscious audience. Mondays feature the spiritually uplifting Afroclectic Soul. Wednesdays, Underground and Fridays, old school soul, funk and rare grooves. Tune in for d.j. Kamau and Bali Radio’s profiled ‘musical artist of the week’ on internet radio: www.baliradio.net Pecha Kucha: Monthly, Betelnut, Jalan Raya, Ubud. Hosted by the charismatic Peter Wall and put on by Hubud, Ubud’s community co-working space, Pecha Kucha has become one of the most anticipated monthly gatherings in Ubud. Each month, an eager crowd of 300+ pile into the two story Betelnut venue to hear six inspiring speakers share their ideas in a refined format of 6.5 minutes each. With 20 slides for 20 seconds each what would ‘you’ say? For more information go to: www.hubud.org

Take Action! Volunteer to empower women: Jalan Siligita 22, Nusa Dua. From the outside it may look like life for a Balinese woman is as romantic as the rice paddy backdrop. In reality, limited access to education, societal expectations and discriminatory laws against woman who seek divorce are just a few of the issues that they face. Bali Wise an amazing organization addressing these issues. Consider volunteering. www.baliwise.org Bali Hash Run: Weekly, everywhere. Have you ever wanted to walk (or run!) through Bali’s rice paddies and jungles, explore its rivers, and hike its hidden valleys with up to 100 people, without knowing exactly where you are going? If this speaks to you then go no further: www. balihashone.com Usada Meditation with Merta Ada: Daily, weekly and monthly courses. Ngurah Rai 328, By Pass Sanur. Since he first opened his clinic doors in 1992, Merta has guided close to 100,000 students in meditation, healing and recovery. Drawing on Indian and Chinese traditions, he blends together a unique method that is practical, simple and effective. There’s nothing fancy, esoteric

or phony about this man. Sit down, be still, journey inside and observe what’s going on. A hundred thousand people can’t be wrong: www.balimeditation.com DanceWalk: Bi-monthly, Ubud. Inspired by a crazy, global trend started by journalist Ben Aaron in 2012, a few DanceWalk groups have sprung up around the island, and in particular, Ubud. Join others who love to dance and walk at the same time. Come and boogie in the streets! Grab your headphones and a musical device (with your favorite dance playlist) and join the fun. Look for meeting place details on Facebook by joining to group: Ubud Dancewalk Surfing: Daily, island-wide. Wish you could surf in clean water? If Project Clean Uluwatu have their way, you will be soon. Stay connected to this inspiring project by donating, reading their newsletter or educating yourself about the problems, rather than complaining about the floating trash in our beautiful seas. Their first tip? After surfing, be mindful of where the waste goes from the beach warungs where you eat: www.projectcleanuluwatu.com

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Inspired by Olivier Pouillon

THE SULTAN

OF SAMPAH MEET OLIVIER Pouillon. Tall, lanky, and friendly, Olivier has a one-track mind focussed on one pressing issue: garbage. If it wasn’t for his hard work and dedication over the past eighteen years, this glorious island would almost certainly look quite different today. Through his innovative waste management, recycling and upcycling company, Bali Recycling (Peduli Bali) Olivier has worked tirelessly to divert Bali’s trash from piling up and poisoning the air, land, rivers and oceans. Established in 2011, Bali Recycling runs an integrated waste collection and processing facility that recycles paper, plastic, metals, glass & organic waste. They provide collection services around the island, material recovery and hazardous waste removal. Unique to Bali Recycling is their upcycling program which aims to make better use of waste material by producing glasses, plastic tote bags, used rubber wallets and cases that are sold all over the island and overseas. In the mid-1990’s, while working for a local enviro-NGO, Olivier saw something he’d never forget. While surveying illegal resort dumping in the mangroves around Nusa Dua, he witnessed a infant die. The boy was living with his family in the dumping ground, where they made a living rummaging through hotel waste for whatever they could sell. The child was less than a year old. Born on the dump, breathing putrid and toxic air from the burning piles of rubbish, the child had little chance of survival. Deeply shaken from this experience, Olivier decided to make waste management his

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life’s work, seeking to influence the tourism industry to protect, not destroy, this island ‘paradise’. He has been true to his word. Olivier Pouillon grew up in Washington, DC, the son of a French journalist and an Austrian organic restaurateur. As part of his Environmental Studies degree at Hunter College in New York, he came to Bali in 1991 to study urban issues. He found Indonesia to be an adventurous place and knew he would return. In 1994, he moved to Bali permanently, working with the Wisnu Foundation in Ubud to begin his battle with the mountainous piles of rubbish strewn all over the island. Not a career of glamour, but a career that should be recognized by those of us now enjoying the upswing and promise of a restored, beautiful island.Before a recent talk at Betelnut’s monthly Pecha Kucha events (hosted by Hubud), Inspired Bali caught up with Olivier to ask him a few questions. Who are your main customers? In general, Indonesians make up the bulk of our customers. There is a misconception held by many Westerners that locals don’t care about the environment and that they don’t ‘get it’. That really has not been our experience. Our number one customer demographic now is local housewives, grandmothers and grandfathers, and students. We work with many restaurants and just a few hotels (Alila Ubud, Chedi Club, Suly Resort) but in sheer numbers we have over 100 individual Indonesian family customers. Our smallest demographic is private villas that many of the readers of Inspired Bali live in. This probably means that many of the places that you sleep, eat, and enjoy spa treatments do not have proper waste disposal. Hello river dump.

It is commonly believed that educating children in social problems such as HIV/ AIDS, pollution, etc. will help build a bright future. But you seem to have a different angle? Yes, we take a different approach. Sometimes the best target is the older generation. Some of our best customers are grandmothers who run a warung or take care of the grandkids or both. They are part of our Recycling Club where they get money for their trash. You know … trash to cash. So when grandma tells them not to litter, but rather to put it in the recycling bin, the kids listen. The kids get it, because grandma has extra money to buy them gifts or treats or even phone credit. The kids also start to collect ‘waste’ from school, home, etc. and bring it to grandma to recycle. In Bali and much of Indonesia, the older generation has the respect of the kids. Kids listen to their grandparents so when grandma says “recycle”, the kids recycle. Your business has taken some unconventional and innovative approaches to waste management. Can you tell us more about that? Working in the environmental field and especially with waste is very challenging in a country like Indonesia. You need to have patience, persistence and a strong vision. If not, it’s hard to make inroads and be successful. We have gone through many trials and tribulations with very difficult, unique, complicated and stressful situations I could not have predicted. We have wanted to quit many times because getting things done here can be so frustrating. However, on a positive side we always seem to find imaginative solutions to our challenges, and they create new and unique opportunities. That is how we started our upcycling of glass bottles. Many people assume that glass is easily recycled—not the case here. We get hundreds of wine bottles a day from our customers and they start to pile up fast. We found ways to upcycle them by making cups, drinking glasses, bowls, carafes, lanterns, lamps, vases and the list goes on. Photos by Suki Zoë Inspired Bali 2013 |

What are three things that have surprised you most about working with the Balinese on waste management. In Bali there is Sekala and Niskala, the seen and unseen, which usually refers to the spiritual realm. But that concept is applicable to other spheres of Balinese society as well. What I've learned is that things are often never what they appear to be here. There are lots of layers and some you will not uncover. Accept that and deal with it.

“None of the changes need new technology, just a new perspective.There are really no environmental problems, just solutions waiting to be adopted.” Westerners tend to want to know why or think in “logical” terms. "It doesn't make sense. Why do they do that?" is a common western statement. You need to accept the “illogical” and work with it, not fight it. Patience and civility is of prime importance in Balinese society. Sometimes more important than getting things done (laughing). I've learned to be much more patient. You will rarely see Balinese arguing in public, yelling at their kids or having road rage. It’s tempting to yell at your neighbor for burning his trash, but it hardly ever works. Better to be polite and respectful, then bring it up. Are the garbage scavengers we see down in south Bali helping or hindering the situation? The scavengers are really a symptom of the problem. There is no real waste management system on the island or much of Indonesia. Scavengers and ad hoc trash collectors flourish when there is no sanitation system, when chaos rules, when illegal dumping is rampant. They are not focused on cleaning up but simply collecting stuff to sell. The more dumps the better. To give you an idea of what I mean, Jakarta has an estimated 500,000 scavengers. If those scavengers were focused on cleaning up the city they would be by far the largest sanitation force in the world. Jakarta would be so clean you could eat off the sidewalks! What Bali Recycling is trying to do is to change scavengers into sanitation work-

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ers. To move from making a living by making things dirty, to making a living from making things clean. What are a few contributions a tourist can make to help make a change? The single biggest thing to do is ask to questions. When a hotel, restaurant, travel agent or other business says they are “green”, ask them how…specifically. If they can’t tell you how much water they used last month, or how much plastic and paper they recycled last year, or what makes them really “green”, then they aren’t green. They know how many guests they had last month, how much they spent on food or other costs. Why is it when it comes to pollution and waste, all of a sudden the numbers aren’t there and it’s enough to just say “we’re green”. If they are genuine then they can clearly show, with facts and figures, they are doing everything they can to address their impact on the planet. When you as the tourist, the customer, asks these questions, the companies listen. The second important thing to do is set an example. Simple things; don’t litter and avoid disposable plastics like drinking straws and plastic bags. Use a reusable bag or backpack instead. Tell your guide or driver it’s important to you to leave this island cleaner than when you came. It does have an effect. One of our new customers is a group of tour guides that now collect the waste from their guests as they tour the island and drop it off at our recycling facility. This happened in large part because tourists kept asking them where they could recycle their water bottle or what to do with their waste. In the rainy season when it becomes unpleasant to swim or surf in many of Bali’s oceans, where does most of that garbage originate from? All the waste washing up on the beaches comes from the land. Rivers unfortunately are still used as waste bins and there is still a lot of litter on the beaches of Bali that gets blown into the sea. During the dry season, the winds on the Kuta side of the island are blowing out to sea and the trash actually accumulates several miles offshore in cross ocean currents. Then, when the rainy season comes and the winds change to onshore, the trash in the ocean is blown to the beach and the rivers full of waste are flushed out into the sea and onto the beaches. Remember there is no ‘away’.

Deer at Menjangan Island by Carol da Riva

If you had a magic wand and could change one thing in your work life, what would it be? Hmmm… that’s a tough one. Maybe come back as Elon Musk (CEO and founder of SpaceX and Tesla Motors)–then I’d have enough resources and connections to really clean things up. But probably, I would have set up Bali Recycling earlier. In the past I helped many others to set up and establish their green business only to see the focus of these companies later move away from sustainability to short-term profit. If I had been a little bit selfish and started Bali Recycling sooner, we would be much farther along and probably have a bigger impact. What do you see as the biggest obstacle on your path? People might think that our biggest obstacle is technical or political but our obstacles are really access to financing and lack of good human resources. We have done the hard part; we’ve figured out the business model that cleans up the island. But we are competing against the

tourism and property industries for attention and we are at a big disadvantage. Unfortunately, most banks and investors would rather invest in another hotel, restaurant, spa or villa than invest in the trash business. And its hard to attract workers when you’re competing against glitzy hotels and trendy restaurants. Would you want to work in a nice hotel or in a trash recycling facility? This is a dirty job and nobody wants to do it, except crazy people like me [laughing]. Ironically, if the island continues to get more and more polluted, all these tourism-related businesses will not survive. Bali Recycling may hold the key— not just to preserving the island’s environment but its economy as well. , For more info: www.balirecycling.com

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Random Acts of Unkindness By Maureen Gilbert Photo Suki Zoë

WHAT MAKES any of us pursue the path of self-help and recovery? In the past decade, the Spiritual Growth/Self Help sections of most western bookstores have burgeoned to the point that it is easy to be overwhelmed by all the choices. You may even begin to wonder whether you have some previously unknown issue just by reading all the titles. The options for the resident or visitor to Bali wanting to immerse themselves in a life-altering experience are even more alluring. You can be sound healed, chakra realigned, Rolfed, water blessed or even visit an electrical energetic woman, just to name a few. If you don’t have any issues in this life then certainly someone can help you find the past life in which you did.

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The question, perhaps, is what separates true recovery from faddish explorations of self that may be fun or intriguing but rarely lead to authentic transformation. It’s been said that coming to Bali is like having a magnifying glass held up to a mirror. Yet the Balinese themselves appear to model serenity and acceptance of life’s challenges without having to “work on themselves” in the process. How have they achieved what we have come here searching for? Is this an outsider’s illusion of this culture? Are the collective expat navel-gazing exercises just the narcissistic indulgence of westerners with either too much time or money to squander?

There is another group of people seeking help and recovery–not just in Bali–but worldwide. You might not find them at the hip healer collectives, but these are the people who have not chosen a path of recovery as much as it has chosen them. The victims of sexual abuse, alcoholic marriages, abusive relationships, natural disasters, brutal regimes–whatever the source–trauma puts victims onto a path that spiritual seekers have been walking for thousands of years. The difference is that victims of trauma must explore this territory or be consumed by it. Non-traumatized seekers have the luxury of getting off the path voluntarily, for theirs is not a life or death struggle. While the experience of trauma is very subjective, the impact it has on our psyche shares a common quality: it shakes the profound illusion of being in control of our lives to its core. Some may argue that a rape is more traumatic than uncomfortable “leers” from an Uncle and yet both can equally disrupt our sense of self and others. Robert Grant, in his profound book, “The Way of the Wound” writes, “Trauma forces victims to confront realms of Being that exist outside of ego and collective consciousness. The soul, along with various existential/spiritual vulnerabilities, demands recognition. In displacing the ego, trauma demonstrates that no individual is entirely sufficient or a god unto himself. If health is to be restored then the help of the Spirit and others are required.” Trauma exposes aspects of reality that many of us would prefer to ignore. Is the Universe kind? If so, then why do bad things happen to good people? Is there a power greater than us? If so, how do we explain the depravity and injustice that appears rampant? Is there anything we can trust in or take for granted? Or can any of us be unwittingly exposed to random acts of unkindness? Trauma poses deep philosophical questions and there are rarely easy answers. Too often spiritual platitudes can get in the way of true healing. Forgiveness may be the path to freedom, however, moving into that territory too quickly can prevent us from embracing one of the truest yet most easily misunderstood truisms of non-dual philosophy: “We are spiritual beings having a human experience” (Pierre Teilhard de Chardin). If you genuinely believe that, then what we came here to do is experience the duality, not transcend it.

But why would anyone choose trauma–even at a soul level? The reason perhaps, is to transcend it. A few years ago, for no other reason than pure greed, someone set out to destroy a business I had worked tirelessly for over a decade to create. My suffering was made worse by new age mantras such as “you create your reality” or “like attracts like”. I was determined to figure out how this had happened to me. Unfortunately, all this did was reinforce my vice grip delusion that “if I can understand it, I can control it” further delaying my healing and recovery. From this experience I have learned that asking “why?” is pointless. More importantly, we must always ask “what?” In other words, seeking solace in coming to grips with why a trauma has happened to you is not nearly as important as asking what do I want my response to be and what does that say about me? What future do I want to create from my actions and responses?

“I don’t pray because of what God wants, but because of who I want to be.” There is a wonderful scene in the movie Vertical Limit. A team of expert climbers has been assembled to rescue a hurt “celebrity” climber on K2. The weather conditions are deteriorating, its getting late, and time is running out before the injured climber dies of a pulmonary edema. In the middle of this high-stress search and rescue, one of the Muslim team members stops, pulling out his prayer mat on the on the ice-covered mountain to pray. His companion, in exasperation, asks “won’t God give you a pass on this right now?” The Muslim’s response is “I don’t pray because of what God wants, but because of who I want to be.” The movie has many profound scenes of individuals being confronted with choices that define who they are in the midst of life’s most harrowing experiences. What if your reason for being here was to allow yourself the chance to fully express who you want to be? How would it change how you responded to life even during the hard times or when you’ve experienced true tragedy, abuse or horror. Can you stand in the face of what life has handed you and not let it change who you are or how you act Inspired Bali 2013 |

towards others? This is the profound and hard work of true recovery. This ability to transcend trauma is beautifully expressed in the opening of the book Shantaram: “It took me a long time and most of the world to learn what I know about love and fate and the choices we make, but the heart of it came to me in an instant, while I was chained to a wall and being tortured. I realized, somehow, through the screaming in my mind, that even in that shackled, bloody helplessness, I was still free: free to hate the men who were torturing me, or to forgive them. It doesn’t sound like much, I know. But in the flinch and bite of the chain, when it’s all you’ve got, that freedom is a universe of possibility. And the choice you make, between hating and forgiving, can become the story of your life.” If you really can embrace and accept that, then your life will shift. What others do to you won’t matter because you will realize that the only thing you can control is yourself. Life may happen but no one can take your serenity or force you to respond in ways that are inconsistent with who you want to be. When you find this place you will discover the

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Promises as written in 12-Step literature: “You will know a new freedom and a new happiness. You will not regret the past nor wish to shut the door on it. You will comprehend the word serenity and you will know peace. No matter how far down the scale you have gone, you will see how your experience can benefit others.” Once you get to that place, forgiveness will come, not from a place of fortitude but rather, from the knowledge that there is a gift in even our darkest experiences. As Michael Beckwith says, “the pain pushes until the vision pulls.” At that point, you will realize that the demons in your life were really angels just helping you along your path and bringing you home. ,

Maureen Gilbert works at Radiantly Alive in Ubud as a Holistic Therapist providing BioEnergetic Analysis and Colon Hydrotherapy. Reprinted by permission from: www.conscioushealingcenter.com

Endangered There are currently 3079 animals and 2655 plants classified as Endangered worldwide. In Bali, a number of individuals and organizations are hard at work to take these FOUR off the list.

Sharks founded Bali Sharks, a conservation nursery in Serangan. His mission has been to save the sharks from fish markets by buying them from the fishermen instead. As they are often young when he receives them, he keep them in a nursery until they are strong enough for re-release.

Photo Maddie Stein

What you can do? 1. Be careful what you buy and apply. Avoid products like makeup, lotions and deodorants that contain Squalene, a substance traditionally harvested from shark liver oil, unless you know the extraction came from vegetable sources or biosynthetic processes instead.

THE EMPEROR of the Sung Dynasty would surely be horrified if he knew, back in AD 968, that his decision to impress his friends, and make a soup out of shark fins, would lead to this. Fisherman around the globe catch sharks, cut off their fins and throw the fish back into the ocean where, unable to swim, they sink to the bottom to die. Bali, like much of Asia, is contributing to this global problem. Indonesia is the largest shark fin exporting country in the world. We have a flourishing illegal fishing industry where poached sharks are slaughtered and their fins, flesh and skin are sold on the black market for up to Rp 4 million each. Fortunately, we have at least one dedicated shark activist determined to end this senseless and inhumane practice. Paul Friese, a Hawaiian surfer,

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2. Be careful what you eat. Because more than half of all sharks caught annually are the bycatch of commercial fisheries, (i.e. they are caught unintentionally), you might consider omitting commercially-fished catch from your diet. But if that is too drastic for your taste buds, you can still make informed decisions about the seafood that you do eat. It is easy enough not to eat shark steaks and to avoid businesses that serve it. But consider staying away from imitation crab, lobster and shrimp too, since they often contain shark. 3. Travel responsibly. It goes without saying, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fish for sharks. But consider this: your travel dollars can make live sharks more valuable than their fins. By supporting responsible shark diving tourism, you can make viewing sharks more lucrative than killing them. Get in the water for a good look. Check out www.projectaware.org

Turtles

Photo Camille Chungunco

Yet, sea turtles serve as a fundamental link in the marine ecosystem. As one of just a handful of species that feed on sea grass, sea turtles actually maintain the health of these grass beds, a habitat that so many underwater species rely upon. These reptiles have traveled the Earth and our oceans for 100 million years. Their extinction would be an untenable tragedy

ALMOST EVERY one of the seven species of sea turtle is endangered. Six of these are found in Indonesia. Their journeys between land and sea and the thousands of ocean miles they log during their long lifetimes naturally exposes them to threat. In addition, they wait decades to reproduce, yielding few hatchlings that actually survive past their first year. Human threats compound these challenges. All species of sea turtles in the waters of Indonesia have been protected by the Government of the Republic of Indonesia, where it is illegal to catch, injure, posses, store, transfer or trade sea turtles, whether alive or dead. Nevertheless, Green, Hawksbill, Olive Ridley, Loggerhead and Leatherback among others, continue to be poached and exploited for their eggs, meat, skin and shells. In Bali alone, more than 25,000 sea turtles are slaughtered each year. Others get caught up accidentally in fishing gear intended to capture fish. And those that survive face the ever-increasing destruction of their habitat.

What can you do? 1. Use the power of your pocketbook. Refuse to buy sea turtle products such as tortoise shells jewellery, meat or eggs. Support Project Aware, an internationally organized but locally based initiative, to protect this noble creature right here in Bali: www.sos-seaturtles.ch 2. Protect turtle habitats. Ensure that sea turtles have a safe place to nest, feed and migrate. Jimbaran, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak and Canggu remain popular nesting sites for mother sea turtles despite the increase in development. Whether through the support of marine protected areas or local monitoring of turtle nests, the preservation of their habitat is essential to the survival of sea turtles. 3. Support alternative income options. Because exploitation of turtles is often driven by a lack of economic choices, the World Wildlife Fund, among other organizations, helps develop alternative livelihoods for local people so they are no longer dependent on turtle products for income. Promoting the economic value of living sea turtles, typically through responsible eco-tourism, is another approach to solve the same problem. Inspired Bali 2013 |

Endangered Starlings Begawan has established a nursery on the campus at the Green School in Sibang Kaja, Bali. This hatchery released eight of the birds into the wild in 2012, optimistic after the successful nursery’s flock had reached nearly 100.

Photo Glenn Chickering

In addition to their stunning beauty and iconic status as a natural symbol of Bali, Bali Starlings serve as natural predators of caterpillars and ants, whose populations can explode as their natural predators’ numbers diminish. What you can do? 1. Educate yourself and enjoy Bali Starlings. While still a rare sighting in the wild, you are guaranteed to spot some Bali Starlings at the Bali Bird Park (www.bali-bird-park.com) or The Begawan Foundation’s Bali Starling nursery on the campus of Green School. There are staff on hand as well who can answer questions. A MAGICAL recovery story is always a blessing to share. The Bali Starling (Leucopsar Rothschildi), also known as the Bali Myna, Rothschild Mynah or Bali Mynah, is a species unique to this island. Just over a decade ago, they were estimated to number only six left in the wild. These gorgeous, white-feathered, blue-faced birds were caught and sold illegally as pets. Like other birds, Bali Starlings have also suffered from habitat loss. Bali Starlings have been listed as an endangered species by CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) since 1970. Little by little, with the help of a number of organizations, this bird now has a future. The Begawan Foundation, founded in 1999, has aimed to restore populations of Bali Starlings in captivity, then release them into the wild. In 2006 and 2007, 65 Bali Starlings were released from Begawan Foundation nurseries into the wild on Nusa Penida, a large, rural island off the southeast coast of Bali. That population is still being monitored and seems to have spread to nearby Nusa Lembongan. Most recently,

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2. Don’t keep endangered pets. The Bali Starling and all wild animals flourish best in the wild. Future generations will be able to experience these beautiful birds only if we allow them their own space in nature, rather than keeping them caged. 3. Contribute financially. The efforts of organizations like the Begawan Foundation (www.begawanfoundation.org) to re-establish healthy flocks of Bali Starlings in the wild–including breeding, monitoring and education–cost money. You can support their efforts by visiting their Bali-based shop on Jl Bisma and/or by making a donation.

Mangroves Mangroves have been destroyed over the past few decades, largely due to shrimp farming and other unsustainable aquaculture. Indonesia has suffered massive conversion of mangroves to aquaculture, which can only be sustained with conventional methods for about three to five years before the area must be abandoned or properly rehabilitated.

Photo Intan Tanjung

What you can do? 1. Patronize responsibly. Bali offers a wide variety of options to visitors who wish to enjoy the natural and cultural bounty. Development of large scale hotels, restaurants and golf courses that destroy and disregard natural coastal ecosystems are usually part of the problem. Consider smaller establishments, even homestays and warungs, which are more likely to contribute directly to local livelihoods as well as less likely to destroy mangroves. REAL MADRID football star Cristiano Ronaldo an international ambassador for the Mangrove Care Forum Bali, has helped propel the modest mangrove into the spotlight with his recent visit to Bali to support these unsung heros of the tropics. Mangrove forests play a crucial role in moderating climate impact, serving as a buffer between land and sea. They can absorb the powerful surges produced by hurricanes and thereby decreasing damage by the storms to coastal communities. Mangroves also sequester four to five times more carbon than land-based forest, so they help mitigate climate change caused by increasing carbon-based fuel emissions. Mangroves also provide habitat for a cornucopia of plant and animal species—some species of shrimp and shark, for instance, safely harbor in the mangroves as juveniles. Destruction of these habitats renders future generations of many species that rely on them highly vulnerable.

2. Mind what you eat. Most mangroves in Indonesia are cleared due to shrimp aquaculture. Generally, farmed shrimp in Asia are not a good choice. Tiger prawns are almost always farmed. It’s hard to tell whether the shrimp or fish you’re considering for dinner is from a clean, healthy, sustainable source just by looking at the menu or even by looking at the animal. It doesn’t hurt to ask—your grocer or server may not know or care where their seafood offerings come from, but they are more likely to take an interest if they think you care. 3. Invest responsibly. Consider how the development of your property affects local communities and habitats, as well as how it affects your bottom line. Support the “Mangrove Action Project Indonesia” at www.mangroveactionproject.org ,

Inspired Bali 2013 |

inthestreet

Jalan Goutama IN THE heart of Ubud is the small, understated Jalan Goutama. Certainly one of the most charismatic streets in town, it’s brimming with designer shops, quirky finds, comfy beds, quality spas and delicious eateries. With a European pedestrian-friendly feel, it’s one of the few places in Bali where you can walk side by side with friends and family without risk of falling in hole or needing to worry about traffic. During the day, families, locals and tourists mill about doing their daily business. At night the street comes alive with imaginative lighting and a wide variety of interesting places to visit. The street only takes five minutes to walk from top to bottom, but it can easily turn into a five hour or overnight visit if you slow down, linger, sip new drinks and try out new digs. Editors note: Beware, at night, it’s very very dark between Taksu and Cherry Blossom. Pull out that headlamp or mobile flashlight app. Best to look for the signs and not the addresses. Many places have the same numbers.

EAT Kismet :: 17 Goutama Located on the second floor of a family compound overlooking the corner of Dewi Sita, Kismet is a café and boutique serving everything from high tea, scones and jam, organic treats, tasty salads, chai and cold pressed coffee to designer clothing, art, jewellery and accessories.

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Currently it’s a shop while-you-eat style venue, but soon the restaurant will move upstairs with the shop below. Come say hi to Asri, the smart, savvy Balinese manager, with a hillarious dry wit and a smile from here to eternity. In the evenings, Kismet runs cosmic slide shows making it the perfect venue for those “Dark Side Of The Moon” experiences. Bar Luna :: 3 Goutama Located at the top of Jalan Goutama near Jalan Raya Ubud is a restaurant-bar, nicely nestled into a position which is perfect for drinking, eating and attending their wonderful live music events. Their menu offers Indonesian and Western selections. Free wifi, cool digs, sweet peeps and another gem of a spot to sit and crowd watch. Tiramisu :: 2 Goutama Hosted by the glorious Italian goddess Sophia, this stunningly designed cafe in fervent bright c o l o u r s , bosts glorious morning light and is sure to nourish the spirit. Menu items include savouries such as soups, crepes, salads, tarts, risotto and eggs. And for those with a sweet tooth; cakes, coconut bread, brownies and more, and their signature Tiramisu is the best outside of Italy! There is fruit salad and granola for the healthy-minded, and a range of cof-

fees, teas, herbal teas, juices, smoothies, lassies and shakes. Cherry Blossom :: 21 Goutama This new and artistically-tiled and decorated deli-cafe shines on lower Goutama, a much-needed addition to this quieter stretch. With quaint seating, beautiful signage, lovely greenery and inspiring life affirmations on blackboards, it’s worth a visit just to sit down and fill up with gratitude. Try any of their coffees, sweets, drinks and snacks. Down to Earth :: Goutama, South Just off Jalan Hanoman is Down To Earth organic cafe, whole foods and produce shop. This striking Mexican-style building, DTE offers a huge array of health and food products, clothing and accessories downstairs and a very delightful, fresh, spacious, cafe upstairs. Their uberlarge menu opens like a huge treasure map, brimming with healthy foods. Don’t miss their astonishing Coconut Kefir drink which is perfect for a happy, healthy tum. Down To Earth has free wifi and comInspired Bali 2013 |

inthestreet

Jalan Goutama fy nooks to sip teas and juices in, and the best ever felafel and tahina dip, and gluten-free ‘Cornicopia’ dessert—NOT TO BE MISSED.

from broken glass. Other accessories include unique metal animals, retro signs, bags and things you simply won’t find anywhere else.

SHOP

Setia :: 5 Jalan Goutama Mariko, a designer originally from Japan, brings her mastery of ceramic arts to a speciality store on Goutama. All items are handmade and orignal designs. Tea pots, incense holders and hanging lamps with a strong Japanese influence are produced the studio just 3 km from the boutique in Ubud.

La Boheme :: 5 Goutama Parisian designer, Pascale, brings her distinct taste to this quaint boutique on Goutama. The bulk of Pascale’s clothes are made from organic raw silk, which is incredibly soft to the touch, and made right here in Bali. Madu :: 15 Goutama If you’re looking for quirky, eco-friendly, funky home décor, then go no further. Madu offers a wide range of inexpensive and unique accessories designed by its American owner. Many items are made from recycled materials such as chandeliers made of plastic bottles or wind chimes

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DYPT :: 15 Goutama Working with local artisans from India and Indonesia, shop owner Simon Marks produces gorgeous textiles using traditional techniques to create contemporary designs. Check out the collection of bags, cushions, rugs, scarves and a radiating kaleidescope of natural fabrics. The shop is little and compact— this treasure trove is worth a visit.

RELAX Taksu Spa, Healing Haven & Restaurant :: Goutama South Eat, relax and recharge at Tak-

su. Sitting right on the elbow bend of Goutama just in from Hanuman is Taksu, truly an oasis and one of Ubud’s best kept secrets. With one of the largest spa menus in town, an infrared sauna, and a host of top quality healers, this is one of the few spots in town where 8 hours isn’t enough. The restaurant has a superb menu and caters exceptionally well to gluten-free diets. Indulge in their potato pancakes, soba pasta, fresh juices, and sublime warm chocolate cake. Skin :: 24 Goutama Skin is Ubud’s premium organic spa and waxing salon featuring certified therapists, sterilised equipment and pure organic ingredients. Here, pampering is done the natural way, free of harsh chemicals. Skin offers a range of high-end organic facials and uplifting massage treatments. Every treatment starts with a welcome drink of fresh ginger tea made with cinnamon, cloves and honey, followed by an exotic flower foot bath. Vinananda :: 8 Goutama The spa offers everything from the generic Balinese massage, mani-pedis, to specialised chakra balancing, reiki healing and everything in between. A treatment done with the founder of Vinananda promises to increase a healthy patient’s inner beauty of body and soul. In this “universal life-energy healing” treatment the hand is placed on 20 positions over the body to allow the reiki energy to flow. Head back to bed and sleep like a baby.

CREATE Batik and Traditional Paintings :: 10 Goutama The art of making traditional Balinese batik emphasises the guarding of precious colour—like a treasure. This intricate process can be learned under the skilled guidance of I Nyoman Warta, a batik specialist who studied at the University of Denpasar. Nestled in the centre of Goutama, the workshop becomes a familial experience as this expert’s own family help you to understand this ancient traditional art. Classes take around 4 hours and cost Rp350,000 per student. Bali King’s Tattoo :: 4 Goutama A place to let your imagination run wild. Resident tattoo artist, UK, will help you in realising the body art you’ve always wanted. Not just your average tattoo studio, UK was the runner-up in the annual Balinese Magic Ink contest held in May 2013. He specialises in black and grey ink art in which each shadow is as important as the form itself. Dream Mask :: 21 Goutama Manned by 2 Balinese artists, Dream Mask offers glorious hand-carved masks of gods, goddesses and lovers in 2 small alcove shops next to Skin. Come watch them carve or just hang out and chat; these guys are friendly and enthusiastic and represent a Inspired Bali 2013 |

inthestreet

Jalan Goutama beautiful aspect of Balinese artisan work. But be mindful of Customs’ limitations if seeking to take wooden items out of Bali.

find Mai Malu easily on Facebook where all details and photos are available. There is a lovely community who gather at Mai Malu so its friendly “homestay” feeling is prevalent. Mai Malu is a peaceful hideaway. Oh, and Putu’s banana pancakes ROCK.

BIKE Bengkel :: 21 South Goutama Flat tire, or out of gas? This tiny blue mechanics is here to help.

SLEEP Shana Bungalows :: 7 Goutama Shana welcomes guests as part of her own family. Ubud’s main shopping streets and markets are on the doorstep of this perfectly situated homestay. The 4 separate cottages are homey, clean and airy, equipped with ceiling fans and hot water. Agung Cottages :: 18 Goutama A tranquil oasis in a city that can be overwhelming at times. Agung Cottages is a homestay run by Mr. Agung and his family, located down a narrow alley off Goutama. With only 7 cottages, the service here is wonderfully personal. Each room has its own private veranda overlooking endless greenery. The property itself is beautifully kept, with traditional Balinese aspects such as a family temple and a ceremonial door. Mai Malu Homestay :: 13 Jalan Goutama Hosted by Putu, Wayan and baby Putu, these fresh, tidy, beautiful rooms are comfortable and very wellpriced. They offer 3 levels of accommodation starting at Rp 100,000 (single) to Rp 200,000 (single) during low season. All rooms have clean bathrooms, deck and wifi access, with breakfast included. You can

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Conclusion :: Of course, we couldn’t cover every venue on GOUTAMA so this is just a taste. So come, linger, loiter, shop, play, consume, explore, watch, treat yourself and feel the magic of Goutama, Ubud’s most gentrified street. , Thanks to Devi SoulJuice, Camille Changunco, Janet Nicol and Suki Zoë on Instagram for your collective input.

MUCH TO

EXPLORE:

an inquiry into research on recovery

By Rosanna Nicol Photo Tony Budden

When talking about recovery, there’s much to explore. In the earth, in each other, signs of the hard road of recovery are all around. There is a cultural myth that recovery implies the return to a previous state of health or balance, however, current understandings of it in medicine, psychology and ecology increasingly describe recovery as a ongoing journey where the final goal is unknown and may not closely resemble the original state. We often think of recovery as rest, taking time away, letting recovery happen – but is this accurate? Or, does recovery also require determination and constant vigilance? Whether it’s about healing a hip injury or an ailing ecosystem, a broken heart or an addiction, research provides ideas for the best recovery strategies. In this column we’ll ask, “What is recovery?”, “What do we know about it from research?” and “How can we apply what we know?” But get ready for a wide-ranging exploration–this topic is vast.

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What is “recovery”? The traditional medical psychiatric model considers “recovery” the endpoint of a journey out of illness. It is a process where the end goal is to be “recovered,” where recovery is freedom from a host of symptoms and comes after illness and treatment. Yet even within this model, there has been a shift in views since the early 1980s; recovery is now increasingly defined as an on-going journey, one that is unique to each individual and does not have a fixed endpoint. This is called the Recovery Approach and is applied especially to substance addiction and mental illness. In this approach, elements of recovery are personal and there is no universal checklist of symptoms. Like the Recovery Approach to human health, restoration ecology views the recovery of an ecosystem as a perpetual process. The Society for Ecological Restoration (SER), for example,

defines restoration as the process of assisting the recovery of an ecosystem that has been degraded, damaged, or destroyed. Traditionally, an ecosystem was deemed “restored” if it adequately resembled a hypothetical historical condition. Ideas of these “untouched” forests are useful in the restoration process, but they hold more sway in popular imagination than in the study of ecology. Current research shows that ecosystems do not necessarily reach an equilibrium and then sustain it. Ecosystems are chaotic masses of life that compete and coexist, and it is not accurate to think of them as capable of a balanced (in the sense of unchanging) state of “health.” It seems like no matter how one looks at it, recovery is an on-going journey with a distant and unknown endpoint. So, while acknowledging this open-endedness, what concrete qualities about recovery do we know? What do we know from research about recovery? Sports medicine does a lot of research on recovery, especially questioning why some patients

The Recovery Approach identifies some common factors that can apply to various successful recovery journeys: • • •

• • • •

Hope: having hope for oneself and for the future. Secure Base: having adequate housing, income, health, and freedom from violence. Self-recovery: re-discovering a sense of self. This may require “positive withdrawal” where one retreats from many social interac tions and only engages in ways that feel positive and meaningful. Supportive Relationships: an important aspect of recovery is having people around who believe in one’s potential to recover. Empowerment: having self-control and self-determination. Coping Strategies: from medication to regular exercise, the discovery of personal coping strategies is important. Meaning: developing a social or work role that is meaningful.

Inspired Bali 2013 |

adhere to their treatment regime better than others. Studies suggest that patients stick to treatments only if they perceive the threat to be dangerous and believe the treatment strategy to be good (i.e. they believe that if they don’t properly treat their knee injury they’ll never play tennis again, but that regularly attending physiotherapy will mitigate this). Shocking? Probably not, but these conclusions are a clear reminder of certain key factors for successful recovery. Are you struggling to stick to a recovery strategy? Perhaps you are not convinced about the severity of the issue or your susceptibility to it. Perhaps you don’t believe you can do anything to improve the situation, or don’t have confidence in the treatment suggested. Elements of the Recovery Approach are widely known and used, however, some critique it for encouraging false expectations. It risks sending the message that anyone can fully recover through the sheer force of positive thinking. Balancing optimism with concrete action is perhaps a better strategy. Another concern is that it distracts from the social and political injustices that contribute to people’s instability. For example, for someone who uses a wheelchair, a few political changes to improve access could make a huge difference. Others are concerned that this open model (which avoids prescribed endpoints) can be used to push people out of care before they are ready to do so. Although they are currently under revision by restoration ecologists and have been critiqued for their North American focus, opposite, are nine attributes of a functioning ecosystem. How can I support recovery? There are many ways to support recovery in ourselves, our friends and our world. Hopefully, the research introduced in this article provides some ideas. But go exploring with this - there are few fixed proscriptions beyond patience and kindness with oneself and others. The SER have an online database of restoration projects called The Global Restoration Network that offers ways to support ecological recovery. Here in Bali, The Pemuteran Coral Reef Restoration

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Project is SER’s biggest coral reef nursery and restoration project worldwide. Funded through donations from the local community and businesses, the fish populations are noticeably improving. It is interesting to consider that this checklist designed for ecosystems, might just apply to us as well. 1. The restored system contains the right number and amount of species compare to the reference ecosystem. 2. It consists of lots of indigenous species. 3. All the factors required for the system to continue on its own are present. 4. The physical environment is capable of sustaining the populations. 5. It seems to function normally for its stage of development. 6. It is suitably integrated into the larger surroundings. 7. Potential threats to the ecosystem have been reduced as much as possible. 8. It is sufficiently resilient to endure normal periodic disturbances and stress. 9. It is self-sustaining to the same degree at the reference system and has the potential to endure indefinitely.

The key factors in recovery (basic needs, hope, a supportive community) are also some of the most important factors for a healthy, balanced life at any moment. If this is true, then having clearer notions about the process of recovery and what it entails can only be beneficial. , Reprinted with permission from: www.rosannanicol.wordpress.com Sources: • Canadian Stewardship Coalition. 2010. An Ecological Recovery Plan for Canada • Davis M, Slobodkin L. 2004. The Science and Values of Restoration Ecology. Restoration Ecology 12. • Society for Ecological Restoration. • Global Restoration Network: www.globalrestorationnetwork

mon key m i nd By Ben Tamblyn Photo Jamie Woodall

I WAS born and raised in a quaint seaside town, surrounded by the glorious rolling hills of southern England. Despite the idyllic setting, I proved a “handful” as a child, a “bright spark” with a wild and reckless spirit in dire need of structure. Thus, at the age of 11, I found myself at a private boarding school for boys, one of the best in the south, wearing a blazer and tie and signed up for rugby and cricket. Think Harry Potter without the spells.

“I remained a charming but ‘deviant young man’ who persistently challenged authority, and disturbed the status quo.” Not surprisingly, the additional structure of a traditional British boarding school did little to reform me. I remained a charming but “deviant young man” who persistently challenged authority and disturbed the status quo. I broke the rules that didn’t make any sense to me as often as most of my peers handed in their homework. I got more detentions and spent more time in the Head Master’s office than any other kid in the school and quickly got a reputation as the school prankster and troublemaker. Being the charming rule breaker became the prevailing face of Ben, an image I rarely shook off. Despite showing promise in theatre, my creativity went largely unnoticed and was channelled–in its entirety–into mischievous pranks and random acts of disobedience.

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But somewhere in the middle of this period of happy delinquency, the universe began to spin differently. Shadows loomed on the horizon that I was illequipped to meet. At 14, my parents divorced suddenly and tragically, within 18 months my mother had died of cancer. I was utterly devastated. I felt as if my world had been torn apart and I was completely unequipped to deal with my emotions. I was no longer simply dealing with ADHD (undiagnosed)and an inability to concentrate and conform; I was now desperately trying to survive in an ocean of anger and grief. Mr Deviant became Mr Dark and my exploits escalated rapidly, leading to my expulsion from school at 16. Emboldened by anger and a reckless disregard for life, I began a war I simply couldn’t win. Suddenly, it was me versus Life. Or God. Anything really. It really didn’t matter. Nothing mattered anymore– except that I couldn’t allow myself to feel. I rapidly descended into a permanent state of anesthesia. Every high I survived was a miracle. Relationships fell apart and now, more alone than ever, Mr Dark became Mr Dangerous as stolen cars went up in flames and pharmacies, homes and accounts were emptied. I raged against life in a desperate mission to avoid my grief. Hospitals and jail cells replaced the Head Master’s office and by the age of twenty Mr Dangerous was burnt out, bankrupt and very nearly dead. I found myself living in the shadows–armed, tweaking, terrified and with my mind and body in ruins.

Some time in 1993, I found myself in a local Magistrates Court facing charges. I was given a 3-year suspended sentence and offered an ultimatum: rehab or jail. I chose rehab and “graduated” about ten months later. I’m prouder of my graduation from that clinic than any other “school” I have ever attended. I remember my arrival on the clinic grounds. I was about 40 lbs (almost 20kg) underweight and scared witless. Three weeks later my detox was ending and I found myself in a counselor’s office smoking a cigarette.

I learned techniques for stilling my mind, re-discovered the great outdoors and ignited my long-abandoned spirituality. For the first time in years, I felt excited about life and began to appreciate my own potential. At the age of 23, I finally graduated from high school. I trained as a youth counselor and worked in front line drop-in centers. I discovered a passion for rock climbing, an activity that took me on expeditions around the world and formed a natural precursor to the yoga I practice today.

After nine and a half months of intensive therapy, I left the rehabilitation center and returned to the “real world”, clean for the first time in years. I was 21 years old and back from the dead. I felt inspired and ready for a lifelong journey of recovery that was only just beginning.

My early experience of grief and addiction fostered a deep curiosity about life and a thirst for adventure. I was drawn to Tibetan Buddhism and stories from the Himalayas and shortly after finishing high school, I joined an aid expedition to Mustang (a region of Himalayan Nepal) where we delivered medical supplies to Tibetan refugees. I fell in love with the mountains and the people and returned every year for almost 15 years. I became an aid worker and anthropologist and lived in the monasteries and remote villages of Nepal and Sikkim seeking wisdom, refuge and companionship. I felt a particular affinity with the communities of displaced Tibetan monks who became like an extended family of brothers that reminded me of long-past school days.

Ultimately, rehabilitation was an opportunity to get the kind of education I’d so badly needed as a young child. I learned how to feel and process emotion which included, perhaps most importantly, the utterly terrifying and profound process of grieving.

No single place on earth held more mystery (and thus more answers) for me. Here, amidst the biggest hills on Earth, I sensed infinite potential for adventure and self-discovery. I was enraptured by the magnitude of the mountains and moved by the

The counselor saw my potential. We connected and for the first time in my life I had a mentor. I felt safe and over the ensuing weeks, my rage subsided and was surpassed by a broader, deeper range of emotions, all of which terrified me and erupted in wild, unmanageable bursts. But it was time to get real and with help from my mentor and my newly found community, I began a journey into the truth about Ben.

Inspired Bali 2013 |

was something to cherish and embrace, a tool with which to do good in the world. I saw the folly, for me, of committing to a monastic life and vowed there and then–metaphorically speaking–to swing from limb to limb indefinitely in the name of service, adventure and recovery. I wasn’t to run from life and my monkey mind, I was to embrace it and understand my purpose.

carnage of poverty and the extraordinary tenacity of the people who welcomed strangers with their familiar “namaste”.

I realized that I would recover by learning and that I needed to learn through carefully selected experiences that honored my passions and curiosity. I understood that this was going to take the rest of my life. I began to understand the delicate interplay between my virtues and shadows and to foster a sense of value for the critically thinking risk-tak“Rinpoche says you have monkey mind!” er within. Today, this flows and then, as if to clarify, from me daily in my work as an entrepreneur and “…in here, monkey mind no good!” educator.

On one fateful visit in the late 1990s, I went to Nepal with the intention of taking my vows and becoming a Buddhist monk. I sat with my friend, Tenzin Jampa, a respected monk in the local community. We drank salty tea and discussed my intentions. He said he would speak to the Rinpoche (the revered incarnate monk and head of the monastery). The next day Tenzin and I met again. With his arm around me and half a dozen random young monks squashed into our room in close attendance, Tenzin explained to me with a huge grin on his face, “Rinpoche says you have monkey mind!” and then, as if to clarify, “in here, monkey mind no good!” Monkey mind is a commonly used expression in Tibetan Buddhist monastic circles to describe the western mindset. It refers to our endless curiosity: always tinkering, analytical and –most importantly–eternally busy. As I looked into the round, grinning face of my shaven-headed friend in his maroon colored robes it dawned on me–with almost a sense of embarrassment–that my attraction to Tibetan Buddhism was in part an attempt to transcend that which I had not yet mastered–or even fully appreciated. In short, sat there amidst the flurrying robes and incense and itchy carpets I realized that my monkey mind

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It is unfortunate that it took early drug addiction to lead me to a point where I was ready to start living the life I was meant to live. But I am incredibly grateful to have found it. It is a great pity to see so many of us stray so far from our callings. Sadly, without mentorship and holistic learning opportunities, many of us miss the boats that were built for us. In hindsight, trauma has been an incredible blessing and recovery is simply an ongoing process of self-discovery. ,

Ben Tamblyn now lives in Bali with his wife and two children. He is the Founder of the Odyssey Institute. Reprinted by permission from: www.bentamblyn.wordpress.com

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Jl. Hanoman 46 Ubud (next to Kafe)

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The 1965 massacre In 1965, a massacre estimated to have killed between 500,000 and 2 million people occurred throughout Indonesia. The victims were suspected communists, farmers, feminists and trade unionists. When the killing was over, the memory of it was buried along with the dead; the perpetrators had taken power, stigmatized the victims and their families and suppressed historical memory. It is a painful wound from which this country has never healed. In Bali, the violence was especially severe, where an estimated 5% of the population was killed. The village of Petulu, just north of Ubud, has a particularly dark history. Stories of villagers brutally killing one another and the rumoured existence of a mass grave has clouded the area’s history for many years. To rebalance, a cleansing ceremony was performed in late October 1965. Within days, the town was flooded with egrets that many believe arrived to protect the village from further tragic events. To this day, just before sunset, the birds can be seen flocking into the village and nesting in the trees of Petulu next to the grave site. For further reading check out: “The Dark Side of Paradise” by Adrian Vickers or “Pretext for Mass Murder” by John Roosa. For more general information: National Commission of Human Rights: www.stopimpunity.org and a woman’s support groud that formed after the massacre: www.institutungu.com “The Act of Killing”, an extraordinary documentary by Canadian filmmaker, Joshua Oppenheimer, is opening up conversations about this sensitive issue.

Years in

Indonesia

The 2002-2005 Bombings On October 12, 2002, 202 people at two nightclubs (Sari Club and Paddy’s) were the victims of a violent terrorist attack by the Islamist group, Jemaah Islamiyah. Said to be in retaliation to the US “War on Terror”, and Australia’s role in the liberation of East Timor, two bombs targeted the nightclub district in Kuta, and a third the U.S Consulate in Denpasar. The island’s tourist economy was decimated overnight, and took years to rebuild. Then on October 1st, 2005, terrorists detonated bombs at Jimbaran Beach and once again in Kuta, claiming the lives of 20 people. One of the most inspiring initiatives that came out of the two Bali bombings is the Annika Linden Foundation, now called Inspirasia. Named after a young British woman killed in the 2002 tragedy, and set up by her British boyfriend, Mark Weingard, the foundation’s mission is to help the disadvantaged in Indonesia lead fulfilling lives and have better access to health care, education and new opportunities. The Annika Linden Center in Tohpati was built in her honour, and serves as a hub for charities that help people with disabilities. For more information visit: www.inspirasia.org For more information on this subject: Films: “The Healings of Bali” by John Darling, “Fool me Twice” by Glen Clancy and “Long Road to Heaven” by Enison Sinaro. Books: “In the Arms of the Angel” by Kim A. Patra and “After Bali” by Jason McCartney. Music: Bali Bombing/Jason’s Accident by Bruce Rowland. ,

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asting orward By Anne Hockett

HEALING IS the miracle that occurs at the often messy intersection where the life weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re living crashes headlong into the life thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been patiently awaiting us. You may experience this crash because of a medical illness like cancer. You may be suffering from a string of failed jobs and personal relationships. You may arrive with depression, anxiety, sleeplessness, a sense of boredom or even doom. One of the most powerful tools, sadly overlooked in Western medicine, is the ancient practice of fasting. Pure and simple, the process of ceasing to ingest food for a period of at least seven days or more, stimulates every innate healing power the body has in store.

Photo by Lokah

THIS IS the carabiner that attaches you to the experience of your body. If your facilitators are experienced, you rejoin with the sense of awe and wonder at the miracle that is your body–the vehicle of your soul. Nearly everyone completes a fast with a healthier relationship to their body’s needs and ability to respond to them. And very few people complete the process attached to their unhappiness, fatigue or illness because most of the symptoms, if not the root causes, have been illuminated, shifted or simply disappeared. Fasting affects every layer of our being: from our cells and tissues; to the production of hormones and neurotransmitters; to the deployment of bile and digestive enzymes; to the effective and efficient movement of breath and oxygen throughout the body. If you thought fasting was just good for the gut, think again.

Seven simple but profound positive impacts of the fasting process are: • • • • • • •

Rests the digestive system Cleanses and detoxifies the entire body Pauses patterns in eating and general consumption Promotes greater clarity–physical, emotional, spiritual Clears and restarts major body systems– the space of miracles Creates a sense of physical lightness and enhanced energy Promotes a sense of calm, inner peace, knowing, connection

A longer list of benefits include: The Physical Benefits of Fasting Maintenance Check: Most of us regularly take our cars in for annual maintenance checks. The oil is changed, the brake pads replaced and the tires rotated. We pay for this safety measure to assure that we’re driving a well-functioning machine. The body is the same. If we remember the fasting process is as old as time and that even the animal kingdom does it, it must be something the body needs and indeed loves. Why would that be so? At least 65% of the entire body’s energy reserve is directed to digestion. That means more than half of all the energy we need and consume on a daily basis goes to our gut. And, much of the 65% energy directed to digestion, assimilation (the uptake of nutrients) and elimination is randomly scattered energy because we are working inefficiently and ineffectively. This is not a good thing, and even worse over time. The history and benefits of fasting are not new. Nor are they New Age. Fasting is an ancient healing art as old as the recorded history of man.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti-aging effects Better attitude Better resistance to disease Better sleep Change of habits Clearer planning Clearer skin Creativity Diet changes Drug detoxification Improved senses (vision, hearing, taste) Inspiration More clarity (mentally and emotionally) More energy More relaxation New ideas Purification Reduction of allergies Rejuvenation Rest for digestive organs Revitalization Right use of will Spiritual awareness Weight loss

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Who Should Fast? Many clients and medical professionals believe fasting can be a “miracle cure” because of the long list of physical conditions either improved or removed by fasting. Thousands of people have suffered for months, years or decades with chronic conditions that have failed to ameliorate through the use of drugs or even radical surgeries and other invasive treatments. Fasting is an inexpensive, natural, safe and effective first response to just about any form of un-wellness.

“Fasting is the greatest remedy, the physician within.” Philippus Paracelsus Fasting often provides the first proof that the body can, in fact, heal. As symptoms dissipate during the short course of the fasting, the person fasting experiences the deep connection between food and health. They often have the energy and desire to continue to make the healthier shifts and choices in their eating and drinking habits to continue on the road to newfound health. The clinical reality is that when we fast, we signal to the body that his or her own innate healing mechanisms are honored and needed.

What’s the difference between fasting and cleansing? According to fasting guru, Hillary Hitt, “A fast is always a cleanse but a cleanse is not always a fast.” A fast means that no food is taken in and digested. A cleanse can mean any number of things—consuming raw foods and juices, for example. A fast is like taking a long internal shower and usually lasts up to several days. It is important to go past day 3-4 as that’s when the body releases large volumes of toxic waste. In a “supported” fast the body is cleansed of old waste, stored bile, toxins and parasites. Supported means that supplements are added to support the liver and kidneys. This is necessary because most people come to a fast depleted and in need. And, it means that a qualified person is guiding the group so no one suffers unnecessarily. Did early man fast to lose weight? No. The history of fasting has no recorded beginning and will likely have no end. Fasting was imposed upon early man because of the variable ability to secure food. Tribes often went long periods of time on very little or no food. Hunters gathered what they could, ate what they needed and eventually learned how to preserve the leftovers for later consumption. Remember that the next time you leave the grocery store laden with your goodies!

Is fasting unique to human beings? Fasting is not unique to man. Squirrels and salmon and snails fast. So do anteaters, humpback whales, plovers and penguins. In fact, just about all species in the animal kingdom fast as they change environments, enter a new life stage, prepare to create offspring or seek rest prior to an arduous journey. Call it animal instinct.

“A little starvation can really do more for the average sick man than can the best medicines and the best doctors.” Mark Twain Was fasting practiced solely for religious purposes? No again. It is our historical understanding that Buddha, Christ, Moses and Mohammed all fasted. Much of the tradition of fasting is embedded in the books of major faiths and has been practiced, in varying forms, for many centuries. These ancient fasting practices share the same goal of reaping both physical and emotional benefits. Many faiths also share the deep spiritual belief that while fasting, we come in closer proximity to God or the divine nature within us. Therefore, fasting in the religious context is deeply established across multiple faiths. The religious reasons for fasting do include the derived health benefits. Religious communities fast to give thanks to God, to atone for sins and as a gesture of gratitude or forgiveness. Depending on the faith, religious fasts also encourage a deeper connection to God – the external God or the personal divine within. Many ancient indigenous cultures believed men and women were at their height of intuition while fasting and encouraged it to avert natural disasters or to gain insight into timing of war or tribal relocation. Was fasting considered a ‘first line’ medical treament protocol as early as 460 B.C.? Physicians and healers keenly observed the animal kingdom to learn about healing. What herbs did animals eat when ill and what behaviors did they engage in Photo by Pilipphoto

when sick or dying? One of the earliest documented medical proponents of fasting and a keen observer of the animal world was none other than Hippocrates – considered the Father of Medicine and the inspiration for the Hippocratic Oath that guides the moral and professional conduct of doctors worldwide. Are there many medically valid reasons to fast or cleanse? Yes! Researchers have long studied the effects of fasting. Deciphering fasting physiology and the further development of traditional fasting was the foundation for recognizing this form of treatment in naturopathy. It is now fully recognized as a treatment for chronic illnesses and a prevention protocol for many other illnesses at major medical centers including Johns Hopkins University and The Mayo Clinic. Fasting is experiencing a revival. Interestingly, the Eastern traditions never really wavered from this ancient wisdom. In India, Bali, Japan, Korea, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Bhutan and Vietnam, fasts (of variable lengths) remain a common family practice for illness prevention or treatment. Is the medical data supporting fasting any good? Yes! The list of modern medical practitioners with successful careers who are advocates of fasting in many of the world’s best medical institutions is long. These medical professionals practice at Johns Hopkins, Harvard Medical, Yale New Haven, Case Western, Vanderbilt, UCLA, Stanford and other acclaimed institutions. They have published in reference journals such as the New England Journal of Medicine, The Lancet, The American Journal of Epidemiology, The International Journal on Cancer, The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, the British Medical Journal, the Journal of the American Medical Association and others. While their findings and practices have been brought to the public on Oprah and other talk shows, the science behind the logic is significant and growing. Many doctors have experimented the old fashioned way—on themselves. There are numerous examples of doctors who have became ill with canInspired Bali 2013 |

cer, heart disease or arthritis, and who have tested fasting protocols on themselves. Many experienced personal healings such as the elimination of all symptoms and/or underlying disease. Some found the experience to be of such significant value that they themselves then began research on the subject. The more patients they encouraged to fast and the more measurable, clinical benefits that ensued, the more fasting has become a favorite in the medical suite of suggestions. Are there are emotional benefits to fasting? The answer is a resounding yes—there are. Emotionally, one will feel calmer, clearer and happier. Fasters often report that depression lifts and goals begin to feel more obtainable as obstacles are put into proper focus. Clients are self-reporting improved concentration, less anxiety, and better sleep.

What is pH and why is this so important? Much of the story of fasting benefits lies in the understanding of pH. In chemistry, pH (potential of hydrogen) is a

“Everyone has a doctor in him; we just have to help him in his work. The natural healing force within each one of us is the greatest force in getting well. To eat when you are sick, is to feed your sickness.” Hippocrates

Are there any spiritual benefits to fasting? Phew—yes is the answer to this one! The powerful effects of fasting are often experienced most deeply in our spiritual connection. Fasting takes our attention inward. We listen and become quiet. And that quiet quality time, you with you, will also allow a greater sense of kinship with your Inner Being. Without the continual addition of heavy foods into the system (and after any major detox symptoms have passed), the body takes on a lighter, less dense feeling. This helps to create a subtle separation from ordinary physical reality and all its worldly things. Is fasting is considered alternative because it’s ‘woo woo’? Not at all. In fact, fasting is considered an ‘alternative’ therapy because it isn't typically prescribed by mainstream conventional western medicine, because western medicine treats ailments and conditions most commonly with invasive techniques. While these modern techniques are highly successful in treating some conditions, they fail miserably in others.

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measure of the acidity or basicity of an aqueous solution. Pure water is said to be neutral, with a pH close to 7.0. Solutions with a pH less than 7 are said to be acidic and solutions with a pH greater than 7 are basic or alkaline. Many factors play a role in acid forming: stress, medications, food and beverages. The level of pH is measured using a pH paper. The value scale ranges from 1 (most acidic) to 14 (most alkaline). The middle and healthy range for pH is reflected in the color green.

Multiple systems within the body function to keep the body’s blood and organs within a specific pH so that we are well functioning and alive. Human blood has pH in the range of 7.35 and 7.45 – a tight range! Generally, the range for all organ systems and therefore the entire body is between 6.8 and 7.4. The pH range changes throughout the day and from day to day.

When a pH is too high or too low, the body is considered to be in an acid state and just out of balance. When the body is out of balance and highly acidic, it becomes a welcome host for illness ranging from simple acne to allergies, high blood pressure, blood sugar challenges, headaches, mood shifts, arthritis, sinus congestion, fungal infections (candida) low energy and a poorly functioning immune system that results in constant colds, flu and fatigue.

Can conventional medicine do it all? No. • • • • • •

• • • • • •

What conventional medicine can do: Manage trauma better than any other system of medicine Treat emergencies–a severed carotid artery, for example Antibiotics treat acute bacterial infections. Prevent many infectious diseases by immunization Replace damaged hips and knees. Reconstructive surgery Conventional medicine cannot: Treat viral infections Cure most, if not all, chronic degenerative diseases Effectively manage most kinds of mental illness Cure most forms of allergy or autoimmune disease Effectively manage all but about 2% of genetically linked illnesses Cure most forms of cancer

When the body is out of normal range, great amounts of energy are expended to correct the pH. In order to regain balance, the body will leach calcium from bones and teeth to reduce acid. Your body will also deplete potassium reserves to buffer the acid build up. Sodium, important for the healthy function of the brain, nervous system and muscles, will also be leached. And magnesium will be redirected away from the muscles causing cramps and discomfort. The nutrients from food or supplements will not be absorbed and used in an acid environment.

In fact, most scientist and practitioners on the forefront of professional research in nutrition and health agree that an acid environment is the “first mover” for most if not all disease. The good news is that pH can be shifted temporarily and more permanently with intention and attention to diet and stress. How does fasting restore pH? Imagine more than 20 feet of digestive tubing, encumbered by the build up of mucoid plaque which is a combination of harmful mucous material and undigested foods. Plaque covers up the all important villi, finger-like projections in the small intestines which are trying so hard to absorb the nutrients in the food consumed. The build up of this toxic waste accumulates over years and decades creating an acidic environment. A fast removes toxic waste from the colon,

“Skepticism rants and raves or raises a chilly eyebrow while Reality patiently waits for all the fuss to die down. It is through science that we prove, but through intuition that we discover.” Physicist Henri Poincare small intestine, liver and gallbladder. Some people literally see many pounds of this waste removed naturally. The waste material is highly acidic, rancid, foul smelling and of no service to the body whatsoever. And, they are the perfect welcoming nesting spot for parasites. Once removed, the internal body is lighter, cleaner and better able to maintain a balanced pH. What are some of the side effects of fasting? Many people experience headaches, body aches, Inspired Bali 2013 |

“If I could live my life all over again, I would devote it to proving that germs seek their natural habitat in diseased tissue rather than being the cause of diseased tissue. For example, mosqutoes seek stagnant water but don’t cause the water to stagnate.” Dr. Rudolph Virchou light headedness and sometimes nausea. Each of these sensations in the body is part of the healing cleansing process. Symptoms usually pass within hours, and very rarely last more than a day. They signal the level of toxicity—the more toxins, the more discomfort. But most clients move through these symptoms with relative ease. Why should a fast be supported? The body is a complex and miraculous machine. A good program will be guided by people who understand the body and are well trained in healing modalities such as medicine, homeopathy and naturopathy. While a fast is physically fairly straightforward, it is an emotionally opening and a spiritually awakening process. Traditionally, cleansing was done in a circle with guides or elders present to safely support and assist people moving through any stored emotional trauma. And, nearly all fasters have moments of great clarity, a connection to something greater, and epiphanies that guides can assist in interpreting and assimilating.

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Where fasting most shines as an alternative practice is with the degenerative diseases and chronic conditions. Degenerative diseases are conditions of deterioration progressing over time, and are generally caused by longterm lifestyle choices and/or bodily wear due to age. No amount of surgery or numbers of medical procedures will cure a body that isn't physically, emotionally and spiritually directed toward healing. And any scientist will concede that only the body itself can restore tissues to their original state of perfection. What natural remedies succeed in doing, is focusing the other aspects—the emotional, mental and spiritual parts of our being—toward health. , Reprinted with permission from www.youhealing.net

afe

Childhoods By Suki Zoë

In the heart of Denpasar, around 45 kids who once begged on the streets, now have a brighter future. Through the work of “Safe Childhoods Centre of Street Children”, they now have access to free schooling, fresh food, clean air and a garden in which to play—a safe haven, away from the slums in which they live. In exchange, their mothers—used to long days of begging with their children on polluted streets—commit to paid work offered to them through the organization. Some kids have stopped begging, but many more still spend their days on Sunset Road. A peek into the jovial workspace illuminates the success of the project. Safe Childhoods recently moved to a beautiful new location, with 2 cheerfully-painted classrooms, a large sunny toy-filled playroom, a tran-

quil resting room, medical room, kitchen, 2 workspaces for the mothers and a garden to grow their own food. Most of the families have migrated from rural East Bali (where the dry climate severely affects food production) to Denpasar in search of work. Many of the children suffer from neglect, abuse and malnutrition having spent months or years of their lives breathing constant traffic fumes and panhandling day and night. With the help of “Bali Kids” they are offered medical support—identifying those being abused or neglected. With the support of Safe Childhoods, their daily lives have shifted dramatically. The education is specially tailored to their needs, and adapts to their behaviour and chaotic lifestyles. There is a joyful camaraderie here: the mothers talk and laugh quietly, while the kids play easily together without age divide or separation. The two teachers, Angie and Indah are young, dedicated, caring and truly making a difference. Jewellery company, Ananda Soul Creations outsources some of their production to Safe Childhoods, as well as donating a percetage of profits to the charity. Owner Christina Zipperlin spends time with the mothers, teaching them jewellery making techniques. ,

For more information on the charity and founder and director Natalia Perry: www.safechildhoods.org

“Gradually we are changing the children’s perspectives for the future, encouraging them to become teachers, nurses and other professionals instead of repeating the cycle of begging.” Founder, Natalia Perry

Reprinted with permission from: www.qito.co.uk The children are fed fresh food every day

Mothers making jewellery in the workshop

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Anggi, teacher

It started with a desire to preserve tradition

Ibu Dayu and her friend Melanie began hand-rolling incense in 1989. They saw the rapid changes Bali was undergoing and felt a need to practice and preserve the rich healing traditions that remain largely unwritten. They began with one scent…Temple Spice.

It took two years to perfect They brought hundreds of samples to Ibu Dayu’s father, the village priest, until they found the perfect formula. Incense is central to Bali’s Hindu spirituality, so it needed to be right. Not too powerful, but rich enough to invoke the holy sense of Tri Hitra Karana. Today, Utama Spice carries on their practice of looking to the traditional way -the correct way- in carefully formulating and crafting our products.

We are proud to call

Bali our home, and we work with local farmers to promote sustainable farming practices. We use indigenous herbs like Balinese Citrus, Ginger, and Turmeric fresh from our garden. Every product is mixed, melted, and made by passionate hands in our small factory nestled in the rice paddies of Ubud. We never use binders, preservatives, or anything but premium ingredients in our products.

It’s how we started and how we’ll stay.

UTAMA SPICE NATURAL AROMATHERAPY PRODUCTS

Tri Hitra Karana - For People, for Earth, For Us.

utamaspicebali.com

J USTb r e a t h e By Robin Sparks

I’M HESITANT to tell people I’m a breath worker. After all, we breathe from the moment we’re born until we take our last breath. So who needs lessons in how to do what we’ve always done and who am I to show them how to do it? Three years ago I attended my first breath workshop on the recommendation of a friend. The facilitator gave our group an introduction to the process and what we might experience. He demonstrated how to breathe deeply in and out through open mouths, without pauses, and he asked that we continue to breathe in this manner for an entire hour no matter what came up. He explained that we could control the intensity of our experience by slowing down or speeding up our breath. About 30 minutes into that first session, my body full of oxygen, I experienced what felt like imminent death. The facilitator encouraged me to keep breathing. I did and what transpired next has stayed with me since. A crystal clear knowing came to me that day that the divine existed within me—not out there in crystals, gurus, or any other number of teachings we reach for in search of peace. It was inside, all along. Breathwork brought me home. And I got to lie on a cushion on a floor for the whole thing. I was hooked and I wanted to know more. There are a number of breathwork modalities: Holotropic, Transformational, Rebirthing, Clarity Breathwork and more, too many to list here. Breathwork, regardless of style, allows unconscious thoughts and patterns to surface, while offering the means to release them energetically,

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physically and emotionally through sustained connected breathing. The various modalities differ mostly in length of sessions, speed of the breath, and post-breathwork integration activities. In Holotropic breathwork for instance, participants draw their experiences, whereas, in Clarity Breathwork, breathers share verbally. What all modalities offer in common is an awareness of spirit and an expanded sense of one’s true self. As a writer, I find that breathwork helps me to write more authentically. When I fill every cell of my body with oxygen for a sustained period, all the bullshit fades to black and that which matters rises to the surface. Suddenly, I know precisely what I want to say. As in life. Typically the experience for each ‘breather’ is unique each time. Participants may experience incredible peace, painful emotions, lost memories. They may journey—some claim that breathwork is the nearest thing to a psychedelic experience. On a purely physical level breath sessions detoxify and rejuvenate the body. Under normal circumstances, 75% of toxins are expelled from our bodies through our breath. Imagine what happens when you breathe at full capacity, non-stop for an hour or more. It speeds recovery from whatever ails you. Whether you would like to recover from writer’s block, painful memories, negativity, the inability to solve a particular problem or whether you simply wish to experience incredible bliss, peace and blasts of insight that will change your life, breath work can take you there. , Reprinted by permission from: www.robinsparks.com Inspired Bali 2013 |

YOGA supta baddh a konasana

O By Janet Nicol Photo Haidar Ali

Yoga is in a renaissance. In the last few decades more than one hundred and fifty registered yoga styles have emerged. Hatha yoga, once the only option in town, was taught by a handful of fringe yogis in living rooms and quirky community spaces throughout North America and Europe. Those days are long gone. Today, yoga is a multi-billion dollar industry used to market cars, condos and lifestyles. With franchised yoga studios (using the same model as Starbucks) and an overabundance of mass-produced yoga apparel, we can be grateful to be here in Bali, where such commercialization has been largely kept at bay. For the new practitioner, navigating the multitudes of “yoga styles” can be tricky. Finding the right fit, whether it be for a yoga retreat or a drop-in class, requires an astute student who is not just following friends and trends, but asking themselves some thoughtful questions that may include some of the following: Do I want strength training or increased flexibility? Do I want to challenge my physical body? Do I need to be nourished, rebalanced and restored? Do I need to learn to breathe more deeply and reduce stress? The next step is to care-

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fully match your answers with what’s available. Take the time to notice how you feel before, during and most importantly, after, a class or retreat. Sometimes what we think we need is not what we truly need. At its basic level, yoga poses are designed to mobilize joints, free the spine, release physical or emotional blockages, increase strength and flexibility, and ultimately, move prana up the central axis of our bodies, increasing energy and vitality. The effects not only connect our minds and bodies, but also balance and ground us, creating clarity, insight and a deep sense of well-being. No single yoga style can possibly claim to do this for everyone, all the time. Our bodies change from day to day, week to week, and year to year. Our yoga practice needs to evolve and change with us. The food we eat, the air we breathe, the amount we sleep and the love we share with others all impact, and shift, our needs and energy. Fortunately, there is no shortage of variety and it’s a buyers’ market. Yoga styles originate from a variety of people, places and schools. Some come from a family lineage, like the Bihar School of Yoga in India.

Others have been created by an individual yogi, like the Iyengar system developed by the Indian yogi of the same name. Some styles, like Bikram and Ashtanga, have become household names. Others, like Yoga Booty Ballet, (marketed as an abdominal and butt makeover with the tagline: “the most fun way to work out and get centered!”), are lesser known but have their followers. Many styles you see on yoga schedules are hybrids of existing styles, such as Core Vinyasa Flow, while others target a certain market like Prenatal Yoga, Chair Yoga or Acro-Yoga. Each year, Yoga Alliance (a governing certification organization) accredits more schools and styles in this ever expanding field. YOGA and Recovery If recovery is on your mind, then yoga has much to offer. Generally speaking, all yoga styles can assist one in recovering and restoring one’s health and wellbeing. However, for specific health challenges (illness or injury) you might consider Therapeutic Yoga, Integrated Yoga Therapy or Viniyoga. These styles directly address the needs of individuals and are taught by skilled yoga professionals. Issues such as trauma may be healed through a more gentle style such as Kripalu Yoga. A number of books and studies have been written recently on this topic, namely Overcoming Trauma through Yoga: Reclaiming Your Body by David Emerson. Restorative Yoga developed by B.K.S Iyengar some thirty odd years ago, is likely the best option for yogis looking for recovery. It can be taught in a group setting and can address a cross section of issues that one may be recovering from. As yoga practitioners age, many are seeking a balance to the more dynamic practices of Ashtanga, Power and Vinyasa. Restorative Yoga (RY) is filling this gap as the perfect complementary practice. Built upon the premise that support creates release, Restorative Yoga uses props (bolsters,

pillows, blocks, blankets, straps, chairs and eye pillows) in combination with long holds to help the body safely release stress and tension, nurturing the practitioner’s whole being. RY gives the body time to dial down the sympathetic nervous system and dial up the parasympathetic nervous system, moving us out of flight-or-flight into rest and renewal. The focus moves beyond the surface body into the subtle energetic body, affecting us on a more profound level. Considered by many to be the queen of all restorative poses, Supta Baddha Konasana (“bound angle pose”) can be held comfortably for up to 20 minutes. This pose creates a soothing effect on the central nervous system that results in a profoundsettling of the mind and body, similar to the feeling after meditation. As an addition to the possible healing benefits listed below, “bound angle pose” has great potential that many yogis have experienced to be unmatched in any other pose. The body-mind is drawn into an almost dreamlike state, creating a fertile environment for creativity to flourish, doubt or disbelief to dissolve, and pathways to open. Breathe slowly, release to gravity, pause and observe. There is much to be revealed and understood from Restorative Yoga. , Reprinted by permission from: www.janetnicol.com

Rachel Hull in Supta Baddha Konasana (bound angle pose) Inspired Bali 2013 |

The Balian Pak Man

By Janet Nicol Photos Carol Da Riva

Bali is rich with indigenous healing traditions. Movies, books, articles, blogs, Facebook and now “tweets” are full of information and revelations shared by tourists and expats in Bali about their “Balian healing experience”. As is well-known, a local Ubud healer (Balian) made headlines some years ago with Julia Roberts’ portrayal of Elizabeth Gilbert in the Hollywood movie “Eat, Pray, Love”. The result was a lucrative business born for a handful of healers who have benefitted financially from the thousands who have sought them out for answers. Yet, against all odds, these healers have maintained their course, despite a foreign influx that could have compromised integrity, boosted egos and cultivated greed. Balinese healing is now on the radar of international spiritual tourists and health seekers alike. Traditional Balinese Healers have been a fixture on this island for thousands of years. It is estimated that there are 8,000 healers working tirelessly, day and night, to help their communities heal. Blending elements of Hinduism and indigenous healing traditions, Balian healing encompasses a number of different modalities, depending on the specialty of the healer and, in some instances, the sex of the practitioner. For most foreigners, the tradition is wrapped in mystery in regards to how it works, what it does and what exactly the Balian is doing. Ultimately, it requires a deep understanding of Balinese culture and spiritual traditions that many of us will never grasp. But, the attraction to seek these unique healers out is on the rise and therefore, so is our responsibility to educate ourselves as best we can about the process.

The guiding principle in creating balance in Bali is the concept of Sekala and Niskala which could be translated (respectively) as the tangible and intangible. Good and evil, dark and light, north and south, and east and west must be honored through ongoing offerings, many of which you see on streets, in homes and in the many temples. Keeping this balance is a big part of Balinese Hinduism and is believed to be the key to healing the body, mind and spirit. According to the Balinese, there are two qualities that may affect your health. Some can be seen and measured, and are called Sekala. This is more like western medicine. A broken bone would be under the category of Sekala. Balian healers do treat these problems, but more and more locals will head to the closest rumah sakit (hospital) to deal with such issues. Opposite to the more scientific Sekala is Niskala, a more subtle force that cannot be seen. Stress, blocked chakras, angry spirits or disharmony with ancestors are some of the things that dominate this realm. When Niskala is out of balance it can create all sorts of health problems, even issues like gambling addictions or scooter accidents. If you plan to see a Balian, it might be helpful to have a better understanding of how a session might unfold... As is common in Balinese cultural etiquette, a session would not begin by getting straight to the problem, but rather, by sitting down first together, to share a drink and have a friendly chat. Typically the Balinese bring family members or friends Inspired Bali 2013 |

to these appointments which gives the healer a chance to get to know them and offers an opportunity to observe the patient with other people. Locals bring an offering of either money or palm leafs, but if you are a foreigner your offering will likely take the form of Indonesian currency (Rupiah). The Balinese approach to healing differs from a westerner’s approach of “pay and go”, and often the completion of a session is just the beginning of the entire healing process. Female clients are discouraged from visiting a healer during menstruation. In some indigenous healing traditions around the world, a woman who is menstruating is considered ‘unclean’ and forbidden to enter places of worship. In Bali, this is not the issue. However, as women are often considered more sensitive at this time, both emotionally and physically, it can be challenging for both parties during a therapy session. To avoid any miscommunication during a treatment about what hurts, or what one feels, it is considered best practice to do the healing work at other times in a woman’s cycle. Furthermore, healers have kamar suci (holy rooms) which are on par with temples. This energy is powerful and sacred and can bring up difficult memories and feelings.

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Never give the healer money directly, but place it in an envelope, a box or on a table at the end of your session. Some healers will see you privately by booking an appointment while others do walkins. This can take a few hours of waiting and the appointment can be as short as five minutes. Many healers see their clients in public, so be prepared to share your story with others. “Pak Man” Arya Dunung is a Taksu Balian with decades of experience. Originally from Tampaksiring and now based in Ubud, he welcomes all types of problems from cancer, strokes, diabetes, broken bones, bad backs, migraines, digestive disorders, drug addiction, depression, stress to black magic. He uses therapeutic massage and his own crafted oils and medicines to heal. Pak Man’s focus is to help patients find the root cause of their suffering and learn to heal through the cultivation of their own wisdom, responsibility for their own health and honesty. He believes that it is then that people can peacefully move on to enjoy life’s challenges, be they physical, mental, emotional or spiritual. , Find Pak Man’s contact info on page 89. Reprinted by permission from: www.janetnicol.com

Community coworking space in the heart of Ubud book a tour at team@hubud.org facebook | twitter @hubudbali www.hubud.org

PA R T N E R S

makananfood

BAKSO SOUP You’ve seen the scooter carts topped with the precarious metal structures. You’ve noticed the haphazard lettering, often painted without forethought to the spacing, so the s and o are slanting downward. You’re familiar with the call of vendors yelling ‘Bakso’, and the sound of a spoon hitting the ceramic bowl to draw attention for hungry crowds. You’ve felt a slight chill on occasions when scootering through the rice paddies or after you’ve been caught in a downpour. Soup would hit the spot. Bakso to the rescue! But, that soup can look a little funky. You’ve looked at it and thought, “What are those brown things floating in it”? You may have heard Obama likes it, but does that really mean much? Of Chinese and Indonesian descent, Bakso is a sweet and sour soup that, at it’s simple level, contains most or all of the following ingredients: a broth made from beef marrow, vermicelli rice noodles, tofu, eggs, beef meatballs (made with tapioca flour and sometimes stuffed with chillies), chinese green cabbage, bean sprouts, shallots and celery, and topped off with a little MSG. Be warned that for many, after consuming Monosodium Glutamate, a nasty headache comes on. Be sure to ask your vendor if they use is. Ask: “Apakah memakai penyedap?” Meaning, does this contain MSG?

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There is no fixed recipe, just a little bit of this and that, depending on what’s available. No two street bakso’s taste the same!

STREET FOOD A bowl of this steaming, delicious, hot basko from a street cart will set you back Rp 7,000–10,000. Grab a seat on the ground and enjoy.

DINING If you are feeling more like a healthy version (like replacing the questionably sourced meat with organic chicken), and want to be sure of an MSGfree meal, then go no further to one of Ubud’s best little spots, Atman Cafe. Located half-way down Hanoman on the left side, climb up a few steps and settle into one of several cozy benches with pillows. They offer a fantastic rendition of bakso soup with a slight twist on the above ingredients with these additions: ginger, garlic, long red chilis, lemongrass, bok choy, three kinds of onions and heaps of carrots. The chicken comes in the signature bakso ball shape, though we’re not sure how it retains its shape? This carefully prepared bowl of soup will cost you Rp 49,000. Sit back with some friends and enjoy. ,

Opposite page–top left: Atman Bakso by Kalpana Kartik www.kalpanakartik.com. Other photos by Lokah

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Film Views ADDICTION FLICKS IN THE AGE OF RECOVERY By Uma Anyar

IF MOVIES about alcohol and drug addiction are hard to watch, why do we do it? The answer is personal and varied for each of us. Perhaps there is common ground in the human desire to better understand our fellow beings and ourselves. Interestingly, several psychological studies of empathy development have found that people who read novels behave more compassionately and feel less lonely than people who only read nonfiction. This empathetic expansion from the realm of make-believe into the real world is attributed to the fact that readers who had engaged emotionally in a fictional character’s inner psyche are better able to put themselves in

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another’s shoes. Movies are a contemporary progression of storytelling and are effective agents in forming sentiments in an involved audience. Being safely scared, or even horrified, for a few hours in a darkened room is stirring and entertaining, even if it is not exactly fun. We are curious beings and yearn to experience more than our limited individual lives can encompass. The writer, Joan Didion, made an astute observation when she wrote, “We tell ourselves stories in order to live.” But don’t we need other’s stories in order to live broader, deeper and more varied lives? Embracing Addiction Nicolas Cage garnered a best actor Oscar for his performance as an alcoholic hell-bent

on destroying himself in the 1995 film, ‘Leaving Las Vegas’. At the start of the film, Ben Sanderson (Cage), a failed Hollywood agent, is fired from his job but given a generous severance check. As we watch Ben dance down the aisle of a mega liquor store loading his cart with bottles of booze, it becomes both sad and humorously evident that he is a man getting ready for a date with a death, a fate he has decided to embrace. The movie offers no miserable childhood backstory as explanation for his alcoholism.

“We tell ourselves stories in order to live.” Joan Didion On first viewing this film nearly 18 years ago, I was angry with Ben for giving up on his life and embracing addiction. Recently, I watched it again and realized that his determination to drink himself to death was the one thing about him that was repugnantly heroic. In fact, it is what makes Leaving Las Vegas such a disturbingly compelling story. Ben is not interested in recovery. In Las Vegas Ben meets Sara, a lonely prostitute with a heart of gold. Elisabeth Shue, who plays Sarah, was also nominated for an Oscar for her remarkable performance where

she shattered that cliché to smithereens. When Sara and Ben begin their relationship, Ben, who is incapable of an erection, sets their boundaries by firmly stating, “You can never, ever, ask me to stop drinking. Do you understand?” Sara replies, “I do. I really do.” He realizes she truly understands when she gives him a silver hip flask as a gift. Ben calls Sara his “angel” and, when he isn’t passed out, treats her kindheartedly, something she has never known. Leaving Las Vegas is an unlikely love story between a modern day Adam and Eve, and Las Vegas is a dystopic paradise for addicts of all kinds. The movie offers no uplifting ending in the usual sense but it is not merely bleak either. Even if Sara’s love cannot save Ben from self-destruction, the story is not without hope as she discovers her capacity for unconditional love for him. Implicitly the film poses the question–what is unconditional love? The eternal battle between Thanotos (Death) and Eros (sex/life) are played out through Ben Sanderson. Thanatos wins but there is a tender holiness to Ben’s last moments when miraculously he is able to make love to Sara before he dies. His last word is a gentle “wow.” The New York Times film critic, Janet Maslin, has written that Leaving Las Vegas “ has the daring to suspend judgment about Ben’s downward spiral. This film simply works Inspired Bali 2013 |

Film Views as a character study, pitilessly well observed and intimately familiar with its terrain.” “Write what you know” has long been the dictum for creative writing. Director/screenwriter Mike Figgis’ choice to stick close to John O’Brian’s semi biographical novel may well be the reason for the movie’s unsettling veracity. O’Brian knew the alcoholic terrain all too well. He shot himself in the head two weeks before his novel was to be made into a movie. O’Brian’s father felt the book was his son’s suicide note. Figgis said the book inspired him as he had long wanted to do a film about manic depression, often intertwined with addiction, and a condition he thinks is more prevalent in highly creative people. He was nominated for best director

and best screenwriter. In preparation for the role, Cage spent two weeks binge drinking in Dublin while being videotaped by a friend so he could later study his impaired speech patterns and drunken body gestures. For her demanding role, Shue interviewed Las Vegas prostitutes. After watching this classic addiction genre film, I recalled Leo McGarry, the alcoholic Chief of Staff on The West Wing, poignantly wondering why addiction is part of the genetic makeup of people in the first place. Why do the demons of addiction imprison some of us in our own craving bodies, making us our own worst enemy, while leaving others content to sip just a glass of wine with dinner? Recovery “Rachel Getting Married” (2008) is a movie about the rickety road to recovery. Rachel (Rosemary De Witt) may be getting married but the movie is about Kym (Anne Hathaway), the difficult and rather off–the-wall sister who is given a furlough from a rehab clinic for the wedding weekend. Kym is both a junkie and an alcoholic but the movie does not wallow in used needles or empty bottles. Instead, it focuses on the complex relationships in families, especially the bonds between siblings. Director Jonathan Demme treads an experimental but restrained line, which keeps the movie from slipping into melodrama. Occasionally, it felt like a home movie in which a few well-known actors move among ordinary people who go about their celebration in a large old family house. There is a transparent yet rosy vale of optimism floating over this interracial, multicultural wedding, where the bride and her maids wear Indian saris instead of traditional white wedding dresses and Rachel’s intended husband, Sidney (Tunde

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Adebimpe), an African American classical musician, sings his vows to Rachel. World music and jazz weave throughout the nuptial celebration, but there is no atmospheric soundtrack. Viewers hear only the music the characters hear. Demme’s event-specific audio approach coupled with his home filming style made me feel like a wedding guest. Rachel Getting Married has utopic undertones as the movie presents a multicultural vision of harmony in diversity along with Kym’s recovery story. When a snarly and defensive Kym arrives at the family house I feared the movie would slip into melodrama and she would ruin Rachel’s wedding. But it doesn’t and she doesn’t. Kym goes to AA meetings, and crashes a car but pulls it together to show up bruised and humble as maid of honor and a member of the family. My favorite scene takes place during the rehearsal dinner when

Kym gives an over-extended AA style apology speech as a toast to Rachel that is embarrassingly self-centered, and inappropriate yet cringingly fascinating to watch. Gradually family guilt and buried secrets emerge. Kym’s accidental killing of her younger brother while driving high on drugs is a story you pray never crosses your doorstep. Secret accusations about who is responsible for the tragedy tumble out during a family quarrel. Yet, the film focuses on the power of family love and the necessity of accepting your own as well as each other’s foibles. In the end, ‘Rachel Getting Married’ is soberly uplifting. ,

Reprinted by permission from: www.umaanyarwriter.wordpress.com

Inspired Bali 2013 |

A Day In Bali By Wendy Kassel Photo Carol Da Riva

WE’VE ALL experienced too much stress as a result of too many family obligations, looking after an elder parent, a newborn baby, a 60-hour work week and, of course the one that tops the list, financial worries. Our fast-paced, unstoppable life has finally caught up with us and it seems as though there’s never enough time in the day. The everyday becomes the mundane and your body slowly loses energy, becoming emotionally and physically exhausted. You’ve gone full throttle until you eventually burnout. Now is the time to slow down, shift gears and simplify your life. The island of Bali is in itself, a natural detox destination. Bali is a tranquil setting, perfect for healing, restoration, recharging your batteries and awakening your senses. Everything about this mystical land is intoxicating, yet calming. The fascinating Balinese culture, Hinduism, colourful ceremonies, handsome people and stunning landscapes will take your breath away. Take a day to begin your recovery with an early morning walk along the Campuhan Ridge, gazing at exquisitely terraced, emerald rice paddies and passing farmers tending to their harvest. Get lost in thought—pick a tiny, dirt path and begin meandering. Don’t worry about where you’ll end up; it’s the joy of an unknown destination that will pique your curiosity. Breathe in the crisp air and smell the dew as it gently rests upon each stalk of rice. Just as the sun rises, you may catch a glimpse of the legendary white herons soaring above Ubud as they make their daily flightpath. Unwind, slow down and bring

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in a renewed sense of well-being into your life. Afterwards, head 20 minutes northeast to Tirta Empul in Tampak Siring, a natural spring known for its holy water. More than a thousand years old, the Balinese still make pilgrimages to bathe in its sacred water. Join devout Hindus as they immerse themselves in the water to purify themselves. Cup your hands together under the row of elaborate of water spouts and ever-so-slightly, splash water over your head or symbolically bathe your head, to experience this age-old ritual. Legend states the water has magic healing powers and by undergoing the purification ceremony, you will feel its healing properties. For a town no bigger than one square mile, Ubud proper has a multitude of healthy eating options. Whether you are a vegan, vegetarian, raw foodie,

props – blankets, pillows, blocks and straps - to support and open the energy body. You won’t sweat, but instead, will be guided through a number of longer held poses for up to 15 minutes. Your only challenge is to surrender to gravity and allow the earth to support you.

or just want to eat wholesome food, conscious eating is what it’s all about. Since recovery begins from the inside out, it is important that we start with fresh, organic foods that are full of vital nutrients. From wheat grass shots and macrobiotic salads, to a rainbow medley of fresh juices and organic Indonesian food, the choices are limitless. End your meal with a tantalizing array of homemade raw chocolates and desserts. Eating well is the most important ingredient for good health and energizing yourself. No visit to Ubud is complete without yoga. There are four main studios in town (Yoga Barn, Intuitive Flow, Taksu and Radiantly Alive) that should all be sampled for their excellent selection of teachers, styles and glorious views of town. Consider taking a Restorative Yoga class, a slow paced style that uses yoga

Lastly, indulge in a little ‘me’ time at one of Ubud’s traditional massage centers or healing spas. Massages are an amazing antidote to stress and a powerful, yet calming way to relax. They literally soothe our nerves and produce a sense of well-being. Not only are there are many types of massages - head-to-toe, luxuriating, healing, four-hand, cleansing and invigorating treatments - but the venues are unforgettable. Imagine a massage alongside a trickling river, or under a thatched roof amongst the dense cover of palm fronds in the jungle. Massages run the gamut from traditional Balinese, deep tissue, reflexology, hot stone, or mandi lulur, which begins with a body scrub, followed by a soothing massage. Lastly, there is Ayurveda, the ancient Indian science of healing. One of the most restorative treatments is Shirodhara, a traditional method where an ever-flowing stream of warm oil is poured over your forehead. The feeling is pure bliss and the end result is a total sense of wellness and mental clarity. During your journey here, tune out, unplug and leave all the gadgets behind. You will be awestruck by Bali and all that has transpired during your visit here. , Reprinted by permission from: www.wendykassel.com Inspired Bali 2013 |

feelingFOOD Welcome to the 4th in our series of Inspired Bali articles, where we profile some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most amazing, delicious and life enhancing foods. The Living Food Lab team believes strongly in the restorative power of organic whole foods. It is our mission to get people to think, talk about and understand their food choices better. To your health!

JUST ABOUT everyone eats emotionally. We eat and drink to celebrate and to socialize. We share food as an exchange of love and as an enactment of cultural traditions. Certain foods take on a nostalgic resonance from cherished memories. Many of us anesthetize our emotions through food, seeking to erase a bitter experience with something sweet. We look to snacks to give ourselves a reliable comfort when we feel overwhelmed, stressed or rejected. For many, food is more like a drug than a nutritional fuel source, a drug that is addictive, yet not one that we can give up cold turkey. Finding a way to come into harmony with our food involves facing the emotions we are covering up by indulging in a bag of potato chips.

results from calorie cutting. Uncovering our feelings that we have stuffed into our subconcious, facing them directly, allowing ourselves to feel them fully and then finding our way to a sense of protection and wellbeing, is the way to turn off the fat storage program.

At the same time, truly nutritious living food is incredibly powerful. When we give our body fresh, organic food that is alive and packed with nutrients, our cells The intelligence of our body is such that our animal feel the zing nature and the ancient reptilian part of our brain of life, and can interpret certain emotions as a need to store respond. On Suki ZoĂŤ fat. Our body may translate feelings of powerless- a bodily level ness as a need to become big and strong, or filter real nutrition the psychological residue from emotional, phys- p r o d u c e s tangible ical or sexual abuse into the need for a buffer of a of fat. Feelings of fear, lack of safety or lack of support feeling animal can trigger the body into a famine-type fat storage the body receivresponse. ing what it Obesity and its resulting illnesses such as diabetes really needs, are epidemic in an increasing number of countries. p r o d u c i n g Emotional starvation for authentic human connec- a profound tion and happiness is as much a cause of this as sense of satthe consumption of processed food full of empty isfaction and calories. Dieting does not address the emotional well being. In the same way that eating a quantity set point that triggers fat storage, the reason con- of addictive pseudo-food, such as processed white scientious dieters have such trouble maintaining sugar, makes us want to eat more of it, eating real,

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Photo by Lokah

wholesome food in the form of fresh fruits and vegetables leads us to want more and more of what legitimately nourishes our body. Certain fruits and vegetables are particularly helpful in recovering from food addictions and obesity by stimulating the body to burn food fuel efficiently. The all-important leafy greens, including kale, arugula, chard, spinach, parsley, mustard, collard and dandelion greens are full of ch l o rophy l l, the green “blood” of the plant. Through photo s y nt h e s i s , sunlight transforms sunlight into chloro p hy l l - r i c h plant matter which then becomes vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and fiber in our plant food. Fiber activates metabolism through a thermogenic effect, the process of converting calories into digested energy. Sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkin,

broccoli and apples are all high in fiber and vitamins, helping our body eliminate waste efficiently and our cells to convert food into energy, effectively boosting metabolism. Chilies contain capsaicin which cranks up metabolism; adding them to our meals as well as fresh garlic, cinnamon, ginger and citrus fruits also has a stimulating effect. Avocados, once thought to be the bane of dieters, are full of heart-healthy monounsaturated fat and oleic acid, a compound that triggers our body to quiet hunger. Organic raw cacao, super rich in minerals including magnesium (the mineral most people are deficient in), is a natural muscle relaxant and mood elevator, helping tame our body’s fight or flight mechanism, reducing stress and amping metabolism. In addition to directly facing our feelings and selecting health-giving, living foods, there are other steps on the road to our optimal weight and health. Mahatma Ghandi said, “Chew your drink, and drink your food.” Digestion begins in our mouth, where thoroughly chewing our food enlists the digestive enzymes in our saliva and relieves the efforts of our stomach acid. Staying well-hydrated is essential to digestion. Regular exercise reduces stress, as does meditation. Getting enough sleep aids our metabolic process. An annual colon, liver and gallbladder cleanse stimulates digestion, metabolism and our immune system. Most essential of all, actively engaging in a life full of purpose, making the most of our talents and capacities, brings gratification and allows the natural intelligence of our body to find its optimal weight and innate health. ,

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Recipes to Boost Your Metabolism Fireman’s Fiasco Salad Dressing This spicy combo will light up your taste buds while it supercharges your metabolic rate. Spicy dressing: • 1/2 cup (120 ml) cold pressed olive oil • 1/4 cup (60 ml) apple cider or rice vinegar • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) soy sauce • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) raw honey • 1/2 cup (120 ml) fresh lime juice • Zest of one lime • 4 tablespoon (60 ml) shallots, chopped • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) fresh ginger, chopped • 4 fresh hot chilies, seeded and chopped • 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) fresh cilantro, chopped • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) sun-dried tomatoes, soaked if they need softening • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) miso paste • 1/2 teaspoon (3ml) ground cinnamon • 2 teaspoons (12 ml) sea salt

Raw Cacao Fudgesicles Avocados are the secret ingredient here. No one can taste them but they add creaminess as well as aiding healthy blood flow to the brain and turbo charging metabolism. Ingredients: • 2 bananas • 2 ripe avocados • 2 tablespoon (30 mL) raw cacao powder 4 tablespoon (60 mL) raw honey • 2 tablespoon (30 mL) coconut oil • 1/2 cup (120 mL) coconut water Place all ingredients into a high speed blender until smooth and creamy. Pour into popsicle molds, add popsicle sticks and freeze. Possible Substitutions: Replace bananas with mango. Use purified water instead of coconut water.

Place all ingredients in a high speed blender in the order listed and mix until well blended. You will probably have extra dressing for your next salad; it’s nice to have ready-made dressing and it will keep for days in the fridge. Possible substitutions: Replace any greens or herbs for those listed. Thai basil with parsley for added pizzazz. Raw pumpkin for carrots. Cucumber or jicama. Soaked and drained raisins for honey. Photo Valentyn Volkov

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Avocado Kale Pesto Sweet Potato Ribbons Ribbons: • 2 large or 3 smaller sweet potatoes (either orange or purple sweet potatoes provide contrast with the green pesto) Pesto: • 6 cloves garlic • 1/4 cup (60 mL) cold pressed olive oil • 2 tablespoon (30 mL) lemon juice • 1/4 cup (60 mL) nutritional yeast (optional) • 2 ripe avocados • 1/2 cup (120 mL) pumpkin seeds, soaked • 3 cups (720 mL) kale, loosely packed, with stems removed and leaves chopped • 1 cup (240 mL) fresh basil leaves • sea salt to taste • garnish: • 1 cup (240 mL) cherry tomatoes sliced • Extra pumpkin seeds Using a spiralizer, mandolin or common peeler, make the sweet potatoes into ribbons.

Photo Lew Robertson

The Living Food Lab is a healthy teaching-cafe with hand crafted salads, a granola station, juice and elixir bar, tasty vegan entrees and beautiful sweet treats! We are in a quiet, secret garden in the heart of Ubud just 75m from the Monkey Forest and tucked behind Hubud. We also have a location at the Green School, Sebang Kaja. www.facebook.com/livingfoodlab www.livingfoodlab.com Twitter: @livingfoodlab

Start your food processor running and drop in garlic, one at a time. Add olive oil and lemon juice, then avocado, nutritional yeast, and pumpkin seeds. Add the kale and basil, processing until the greens are well blended. Season to taste with sea salt. In a large bowl, toss sweet potato ribbons with pesto. Garnish with cherry tomatoes and extra pumpkin seeds. Possible substitutions: Carrots or zucchini can replace sweet potato. Spinach or chard are good substitutions for kale. Parsley can stand in for basil. You can use fresh lime juice instead of lemon. Pine nuts or walnuts can substitute for pumpkin seeds.

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Idealist Interupted

DISCOVERING RECOVERY By Renee Martyna

I LANDED in Bali as a corporate refugee, fleeing a life I no longer believed in. Not that there was anything “wrong” with my life. In fact, by society’s metrics, I was doing everything “right”. I had a nice house. I had 2.0 kids. I made a decent salary. I had good investments. I vacationed a few times a year, and my Facebook updates were sufficiently cheery. I had no right to complain. Yet behind the veil of cocktail-hour pleasantries and an overdeveloped intellect, I was screaming inside. Tantruming, really. Like a toddler who wasn’t getting the candy she’d been promised in life. It took me a while to figure out why. If you had told me before I moved here that I needed recovery, I would have laughed out loud and dismissed it as new-age Bali-bunk. Recovery was not for me. Recovery was for cancer patients, victims of near-fatal car accidents or people in 28-day rehabs. Since I wasn’t bedridden or drugged-out in a ditch somewhere, I did not think I qualified. Hubris like that is what prevented me from recovering far longer than I would like to admit. Lucky for me, there was a small voice inside that argued otherwise. When I finally took the gamble, I was astounded by how much this emotionally-arrested little girl with two masters degrees, 47 unique

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stamps in her passport, and a ten-year career behind her still had to learn. Once I had cultivated enough humility to slow down and really listen, “Teachers” appeared like real world angels (thinly veiled as friends, my kids, and the people who pissed me off) to show me just what there was to recover from, and for, in my life. And guess what? I didn’t even have to swap my suit for a flowing robe, thump a bible or start braiding my armpit hair. I just needed to be honest with myself. People often assume that one comes to recovery out of weakness. Yet I think my choice to recover was one of the bravest I ever made. Brave, because it meant that I needed to face one of the most humbling truths of my life: that the common denominator of all my problems was me. I needed to recover from me. The signs were nebulous at first: a gap between how things look, and how they feel; a perennial loneliness that made me feel separate from everyone and everything; a terminal form of uniqueness that told me no one suffered quite the same way I did. Distorted thinking plagued me. I was either too fat or too boring or too mean or too nice. I was never quite satisfied with what I had because there was always something more I was after. I ruminated or complained about things over which I had no

control (the past, other people’s behaviour, and even the weather). My ego—shape-shifter extraordinaire—would have me convinced of my superiority just moments before it would tell me I was a worthless fool. I subjected myself to an impossibly high standard, a slow and self-flagellating routine of death-by-perfectionism. It was sick. I was sick. But remember, I looked great! (At least on Facebook). If all that sounds like new-age fluff to you, maybe this will sound more familiar: I needed recovery because I was suffering from the ultimate of all “ISMs” (a.k.a. I Sabotage Myself ), that nefarious affliction that had me addicted to external validation and worldly success at the expense of my soul. It had me overworking, over consuming and under earning while I deprived myself of play, sleep and exercise. It had me in relationships—business, personal, and social—with people whose values I didn’t share, while I neglected the people I truly loved. In other words, it had me accepting a life that my tenuous sense of self believed I deserved: shallow, hollow, and inauthentic. When I was bold enough to admit all that, I found I was in good company. In this postmodern world— hyperactive, addicted and alienated—there are lots of us screaming on the inside. With the help of other seekers on the island, I discovered a simple (though never easy) solution, a remedy that takes patience, self-care, trust, and a profound willingness to change. There was only one caveat: I had to believe in something bigger than myself. Nothing less could have helped me with the disciplined

dissolving of my ego. What was that thing exactly? It didn’t matter if it was God, Gaia or Gestalt—just as long as it wasn’t me. And the show ain’t over yet. Recovery is a process—more verb than noun. I fall in and out of it all the time. What motivates me through the darker moments are the smaller, subtler wins in life, the ones that typically fall under the public radar: deeply intimate relationships, a lightness of being, and a peace that surpasses all understanding, even in the midst of a really shitty day. How do I measure my life now? Not by my salary, my investments, or my Facebook updates but by the quality of my relationships, and whether I have given the best of who I am to what I do. Beyond that, I’m not sure what else matters. My inner toddler still runs amuck from time to time, but these days I don’t try too hard to fight her. I just hand her the candy right away by remembering that thanks to recovery, I have happy, healthy kids, a job I love that makes a difference in the world, and a wide circle of friends that truly love and support me. I remember that life itself is sweet, and I get over myself. ,

Renee Martyna is the Creator and Conversation Curator with KNOWMADSLAND. Reprinted with permission from: www.knowmadsland.com Inspired Bali 2013 |

EAST WEST I grew up in the westâ&#x20AC;Śand then I found the east. I admired the east for everything the west was not Then the two started mixing & the lines began to blur People began to complain & worry about the change People from the west started living in the east People from the east started living in the west People from the west brought business in the east People from the east brought business in the west People from the west went to the east to find peace People from the east went to the west to find peace Kids from the west started saying things from the east Kids from the east started saying things from the west It was all very confusing. So now I reside in the centre. By Loch SoulĹ?ist Reprinted by permission from: w w w.facebook.com/ lochsoul

Photo by Lokah

Ubud Writers & Readers Festival

anet DeNeefe

IN 2004 RESTAURANTEUR and writer Janet DeNeefe started a new local tradition—the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival. The festival began as a route to recovery after the tragic terrorist bombings in Bali which struck at the heart of this most hospitable island. Ten years on, the festival has become a widely anticipated annual event gathering together literature lovers and provocative thinkers from across Indonesia and over three dozen countries around the world. Over 170 writers, artists, performers and musicians have been invited to participate this year. All of Ubud takes on a festive air as 53 venues—hotels, restaurants, museums, and more—host UWRF 2013 events or associated exhibitions. Writing and reading—along with film, visual and performing art—promise to spark conversations about ourselves, ideas and everything that matters. “Since founding the Festival in the dark period after the second Bali Bombings, it has always been my hope and dream that the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival would provide a platform to launch and promote Indonesian writing on the world stage. Ten years on, with more translations of Indonesian work and more Indonesians appearing at literary events around the world, this is happening before my eyes”, said DeNeefe. DeNeefe herself authored “Fragrant Rice”, a memoir conveying her early love affair with Balinese food, culture and traditions, and “Bali: Food of my Island Home” after nearly three decades living, cooking, eating and writing on the island. The 10th anniversary festival—themed “From Darkness into Light” in homage to women’s rights activist and education pioneer R.A. Kartini—offers a bountiful variety of events and sessions October 11–15. First-time festival goers and even festival veterans will find themselves impressed by all the choices. ,

Read on for our top tips…

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Photo by Suki ZoĂŤ

Inspired Bali 2013 |

Inspired Picks: INSPIRED BALI has sifted through the program and selected some inspiring picks (organized chronologically) to help you plan your personalized schedule at the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, October 2013. Enjoy!

Photo Grant MacIntyre for UWRF Writing The Environment (Free) Friday, Oct 11. 1:00–4:00 p.m. Hubud, 88 Monkey Forest Road Workshop in Indonesian Harry Surjadi began his journalism career at Trubus, an agriculture magazine. He then worked for the “Kompas Daily” for nearly 10 years. In 2000, Surjadi helped to develop Astaga.com, an internet news portal. He has worked as a freelance reporter and media trainer in Indonesia and elsewhere in the region. He teaches online communication at Pelita Harapan University.

Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) Two women—Cok Sawitri, an outspoken member of the royal family of Karangasem, Bali, and Bilawara Lee, an Aboriginal Elder of the Larrakia Nation of Darwin, Australia—join moderator Debra Yatim to discuss cultural changes in their respective communities. This conversation promises insights on comparative culture and lessons from the past for the future, from the perspective of these leading women.

Pinhole Photography Workshop (Free) Saturday, Oct 12. 9:00 a.m.–12:00 Noon Suly Resort, Jalan Tjokora Rai, Pudak Have you ever made a working camera out of simple household objects? As part of the youth program, Komunitas Semut Ireng will teach you how. Participants ages 15–20 with or without any previous photography experience are welcomed. Register online at www.ubudwritersfestival.com.

Earth Circles (Free) Sunday, Oct 13. 10:00 a.m.–12:00 Noon Yellow Coco Creative Nest, Nyuh Kuning. Community-based holistic arts center Yellow Coco invites children ages 5 to 12 to enjoy “a poetic shadow dance that playfully ponders life on earth” presented with live music and handmade puppets. Ibu Susan Allen and Pak Susiawan will guide children through the creation of their own shadow puppets. This bilingual presentation is open to 30 participants ages 5-12. Register online.

The Elders Saturday, Oct 12. 4:00–5:15 p.m. Indus, Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud

Contemporary Culture – Indonesia Sunday, Oct 13. 12:00 Noon–1:15 p.m. Left Bank, Jalan Raya Sanggingan

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Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) Jakarta transplant turned Ubud-based urban dropout Daniel Ziv joins punk rock devotee Rudolph Dethu and writer Uda Agus to discuss means and meanings of contemporary culture as it is evolving in the world’s fourth most populous country. On the agenda: “What is contemporary Indonesia, what does this generation stand for, and what stories will they tell?” Stephen Lansing and the Rice Goddess (Free) Sunday, Oct 13. 3:00–4:30 p.m. The Kitchen, Jalan Raya Sanginggan American Anthropologist Stephen Lansing is the western world’s foremost interpreter of Balinese rice culture. Author of “Perfect Order: Recognizing Complexity in Bali”, “Priests and Programmers: Technologies of Power in the Engineered Landscape of Bali”, and “The Balinese”, Lansing will tell the story of Bali’s rice paddies and the goddess who watches over them. My Singapore Lover (Free Book Launch) Sunday, Oct 13. 4:00–6:30 p.m. 3 Monkeys, Jalan Monkey Forest. Judy Chapman wrote most of “My Singapore Lover” while living in Bali last year. A modern love story set in an Asian metropolis, the story is about a young woman’s forbidden affair with a magnet hotelier. As author Chapman says, ‘Whilst I explored themes like infidelity, I was passionate about showing a young woman’s journey working within the corporate world–and how off-balance one can come when you don’t live their truth, what stops us from listening to our inner voice even when we know deep down inside it is the truth.”

The Mirror Never Lies (Free) Sunday, Oct 13. 4:00–6:00 p.m. Museum of Marketing 3.0, Museum Puki Lukisan, Jalan Raya Ubud. This “coming of age story with an environmental message” features the life and language of the seafaring Bajau people. A young girl named Pakis searches for her father, who has been lost at sea. “Breathtaking underwater cinematography” promises to bring to life on the big screen not only her heart-rending struggles but also some of Indonesia’s most miraculous gifts, below the surface of the waters. Tony Wheeler’s Dark Lands (Free book launch) Sunday, Oct 13. 5:30–7:00 p.m. Casa Luna Restaurant, Jalan Raya Legendary travel writer and Lonely Planet co-founder Tony Wheeler reads and discusses his new book about the more messed up places he has experienced first-hand over the years. You might not know whether to laugh or cry listening to Wheeler’s absurd encounters from Palestine to Zimbabwe and Congo to Afghanistan. Pick up and take home a signed copy hot off the presses. UWRF Poetry Slam (Free) Sunday, Oct 13. 7:30–10:30 p.m. Betelnut, Jalan Raya. Halus (smooth) meets keras (hard) at the ever-popular annual UWRF poetry slam. Australia’s current slam champion CJ Bowerbird hosts this reckoning for the title of 2013 Poetry Slam Champ. You never know what you’ll hear. Dangerous Ideas Monday, Oct. 14. 10:30–1:45 a.m. Neka Art Museum, Jalan Raya Sanggingan Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) Intangible yet powerful ideas can be the life or death of us. This session draws together writers of both fiction and non-fiction who call it like they see it, and sometimes risk consequences. From Ireland to Indonesia to Egypt to Mexico, these writers have faced harsh realities, and confronted the truth, even when it involved intellectual or physical risks.

Judy Chapman. Photo by Richard Ludbrook Inspired Bali 2013 |

Life Blood Monday, Oct 14. 12:00 Noon–1:15 p.m. Neka Art Museum, Jalan Raya Sanggingan Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) What are the biggest challenges for women’s health in Bali and around the world? Are they the same? Is improving women’s health just a matter of investing more money? What other hurdles are there? Writers and practitioners from Bali and abroad including Ibu Robin Lim, Kooshyar Karimi, Dr. Luh Putu Upadisari, and Florence Williams, answer tough questions and share knowledge from their experiences. The Tipping Point Monday, Oct 14. 6:00–7:15 p.m. Left Bank, Jalan Raya Sanggingan Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) Annually, nearly 1,000 hectares of land are being converted from agriculture to development in Bali. For a millenium, this small island’s economy and its unique culture centered on paddy rice cultivation but is now moving ever more precipitously toward tourism. Can this be sustained? American anthropologist and Bali subak expert Stephen Lansing joins writer/reader Ketut Yuliarsa, poet/novelist Oka Rusminiand photographer/writer Rio Helmi consider Bali’s present and future. Jalanan – Preview Screening (Free) Monday, Oct 14. 6:00 p.m.–8:45 p.m. Blanco Renaissance Museum, Campuhan. You’ve probably never seen Jakarta quite like this. Jalanan (Streetside, in English) serves up a powerfully intimate perspective on life in the megalopolis, following the lives of three bus musicians as they

navigate through their own personal lives during tumultuous political and cultural developments in Indonesia. Ubud-based filmmakers Daniel Ziv and Ernest Hariyanto will join this exclusive pre-screening along with the film’s main characters Boni, Ho and Titi. Through Darkness to Light Tuesday, Oct 15. 10:30–1: 45 a.m. Neka Art Museum, Jalan Raya Sanggingan Main Program (One-Day or Four-Day Pass) After visiting the truly darkest days of life through grief, loss, and suffering, is there any way to recover? Or only ways to forge a “new normal”? Writers who have been to the dark side share their harrowing personal stories of struggle to find the light. Award-winning author and activist Corina Hoang has powerfully documented the stories of boat people escaping war-torn Vietnam, as she herself escaped by boat at the age of 16 to become a refugee. Also, writer and doctor Kooshyar Karimi shares his triumphs and tribulations as a Jew at the mercy of Iran’s Islamic Revolution. Filmmaking Workshop for Kids & Parents (Free) Tuesday, Oct 15. 2:00–6:00 p.m. Hubud, 88 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Ever dreamed of starring in a movie? Or directing one? Videographer and Hubud co-founder Peter Wall will show you how to shoot and edit your own short film. Up to 20 participants–including children ages 5-12 and their parents–are invited to attend. Please register online in advance at www.ubudwritersfestival.com. , Daniel Ziv’s film ‘Jalanan. Photo by Timur Angin

Our thanks goes to We are extremely grateful to the businesses listed below for their financial support of Inspired Bali Magazine. Without them, we would not exist. We have consciously decided to be a ‘review free’ periodical so that we can express our views, free of any advertising strings. This is a bold move on an island of magazine abundance, however we stand by this choice and know that it will give our readers a more authentic and honest perspective. We ask that, whenever possible, you support these businesses as a way to support us. Let them know that you saw them in the pages of our magazine and please don’t be shy to say thanks. Help us grow. In gratitude. ,

ACCOMODATION Ayung Resort ARTS Lokah Photo Ubud Writers & Readers Festival BODY & SOUL One in Herself Sang Spa Sedona Spa Taksu Utama Spice

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BUSINESS Aba Cargo Cintya Printing EDUCATION Green Camp Odyssey FASHION/JEWELERY Aum Rudraksha Bali Spirit Yoga Shop Ompure

FOOD Bodhi Chocolate Coffee & Copper Down to Earth Kebun Restaurant Pizza Bagus YOGA Bali Spirit Festival One World Retreats Power of Now Oasis Yoga Barn WORK & STUDY Hubud Legal Consulting Bali

28 Ways to Recover Alcoholicas Anonymous and Alanon—www.aa-bali.org +62 81 558 104 700 Access Consciousness—Lela Thomas. www.taksuhealinghaven.com Reservations@TaksuSpa.com + 62 36 197 1490 Accupunture—Bobbi Aqua. drbobbi2003@yahoo.com 0812 4652 3817 Addiction—Richard Smith. Seasons Bali www.seasonsbali.com +62 361 911 4833 Art Therapy—Sandy Elliot. www.sariaktif.com sariaktif@gmail.com 08585 751 9544 Balinese Healer—Pak Man Arya Dunung. 0813 3893 5369 Balinese High Priestess Ida—Mahareshi aka Ibu Resi +62 819 99216776 maharesialit@yahoo.com Bioenergetics—Maureen Gilbert. www.conscioushealingcenter.com trueself@me.com 0821 461 52259 Chiropractor—Adolf Brown. www.theyogabarn.com +62361 971 236 drbrown@gaiaclinic.com Chakra Dhara Massage—Bali Botanical Spa. www.balibotanica.com 036 197 8739 Chinese Medicine—Lianna Nenachava. www.taksuhealinghaven.com +62 36 197 1490 Reservations@TaksuSpa.com Colon Hydrotherapy—www.theyogabarn.com info@theyogabarn.com +62 361 971 236 Fasting—Anne Hockett. www.youhealing.net annehockett@me.com 0812 3960 4555 Homeopath—Tjok Gede. 0361 9137375 homeopathybali@yahoo.com Heart Expansion—Rodolfo Young. www.totalauthenticity.com Rodolfo@totalauthenticity.com

Laughter Yoga—Pak Kadek Suambara. www.ambarashram.com 08588 885 5961 Money Coaching—Brenda Ferreira. brendaferr@gmail. com +62 81805344309 Narcotics Anonymous—www.na-bali.org contact@na-bali.org + 62 812 3794 6658 Relationship Coach—Joshua Wise. www.wisemindbody.com josh@wisemindbody.com 0821 4701 8891 Naturopath—Frédérique Nault. www.theyogabarn.com holisticbali@gmail.com +62 812 392 0615 Pilates—Asa Brynvall. www.ubudpilates.com asa.brynvall@ubudpilates.com +62 813 5334 9900 Pranic Healings—Punnu Wasu. www.punnuwasu.com punnuwasu@gmail.com +62 852 3813 8169 Restorative Yoga—Putue Eka. restorativeyogabali@ gmail.com 0361 748 3882 Spiritual Coaching—Dianne Tharp. www.oneinherself. com oneinherself@gmail.com 081 339 442 494 Tarot Card Readings—Noviana Kusumawardhhani. budenovi@gmail.com +62 81 339 044 380 Transformational Coaching—Michelle Cempaka. www.spiritweaverjourneys.com mcempaka@gmail.com Unication Body Works—Lux Lawrence Cochran. www.unication.org 0812 465 83501 Yoga Therapy—Frank J. Paepcke. www.amrtasiddhi. com info@amrtasiddhi.com +62 361 973 193 Wholistic Recovery Retreat Ubud November 9-16. With all this reading about ‘Recovery’ you may feel inspired to indulge in a full week. Consider this retreat that emphasizes rewiring, rewriting, nutrition and connecting. Led by a host of professionals across disciplines. www.wholisticrecoveryinternational.com

Inspired Bali 2013 |

FAVORITEFIVE Where to go, eat, give, practice, shop and explore Bali by locals “in the know.”

Letizia Gross del Rio 1. Silence and sunrise at Tirta Gangga followed by banana pancakes with honey for breakfast. 2. Sunday at Double Six Beach Seminyak, for a full day of chilling, playing racket and volleyball. 3. Sidemen Valley by motorbike. Get lost for hours walking on the surreal vibrant rice paddies, joke and splash in the water with the local kids under the gaze of Mt Agung. 4. Full moon night in the jungle, surrounded by tons of magic fireflies for at The Secret Waterfall at Belimbing area (Tabanan). 5. Sushi bunkus from Papaya Japanese supermarket, Jl. Patih Jelantik, Kuta.

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Leti, Madrid, is a mediterranean girl at heart and global nomad. Enjoying the juicy diversity of Bali life for the past 4 years–finding joy in the simplest things.

Rio Helmi 1. Dawn ride on my bike up to Kintamani - down into caldera. The reward is breakfast of Bubur Bali (spicy rice porridge steaming hot from pop up stands in villages) and piping hot kickass black coffee. Vroooom! 2. Early morning swim at Alila Ubud. Possibly the greatest lap pool. 3. Walks through the rice fields at the top of Jl Kajeng, Ubud. Checking out the herbs being planted, chatting with the Balinese. 4. Having a quiet hour or two up at Brahmavihara Buddhist temple in Banjar. The late founder, a wonderful, charismatic Balinese monk–Bhante Giri’s spirit still pervades the place. 5. Reading the International Herald Tribune (yes, paper, hard copy, get it while it lasts) over poached eggs and cappuccino. I feel like I need to really connect with the essence of the outside world. Bali can get very insular. Rio, Indonesia, is a widely travelled photographer, opinionated biker & Buddhist.

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Ismael (Kahi King ‘O La’ aKea) Cardamone Kusumaatmadj 1. The caramel ice cream at Cafe Batu Jimbar is the best in Bali. If my mom will let me get two scoops I add chocolate. 2. Sushi Tei restaurant on Jalan Sunset is awesome and salmon maki is my all time favorite food in the world. 3. Double Six Beach is great for boogie boarding. After a few hours on the surf I head over to Crystal Palace for an icy mango smoothie. 4. I go to the Green School which is amazing because it is almost entirely made of bamboo–the classrooms have no walls–the outside is inside! 5. It’s really a tie for first between chasing crabs on Sanur beach and rollerblading on beach walk. When not in Bali, Ismael, American/Indonesian, and his family like to travel on the St Lawrence River in North America and pretend they are explorers.

Soma Temple 1. Pray with the Balinese at Uluwatu Temple for the odalan–full of color and drama, with the ocean crashing and the devotion of those praying. 2. Visit Gunung Kawi Temple after a scrumptious meal-with-a-view at Kafe Kawi, Tampaksiring. The 11 century carvings and caves are awesome. 3. Trek to the Munduk waterfalls–experience a more traditional and harmonious bali. 4. Alchemy in Penestanan has the best salad bar I have ever had anywhere in the world. 5. F.R.E.A.K coffee is the absolutely best. Take home fresh roasted beans and grind them fresh every morning for the perfect healthy cup of coffee. Soma lives in Uluwatu, making and sharing rudraksha malas.

Zissou 1. Waking up to the sunrise at Bonzu, my thatch and bamboo art/ design/home overlooking Mount Agung and the Ayung River. 2. Surfing Tugu (Batu Bolong, Canggu) at sunrise (or sunset) with my mates, then breakfast at Canteen. 3. Hiding away in the Bukit for the weekend–check out Warung Indah at Balangan Beach. 4. Tuesdays are art-house movie nights at Petitenget Restaurant, Jl Petitenget, Seminyak. 5. Monthly ‘Disko Afrika’ beach parties–best tunes, best crew in Bali–music from Afro-beat to funk and hip hop. Zissou, London is an artist and designer with a background in technology and a foreground in sustainability. And yes, his real name is Zissou. Inspired Bali 2013 |

Street Art: Seen in Ubud 92 | Inspired Bali 2013

Top: www.slinat.wordpress.com. Above: Mural at Peliatan Market, Ubud. Photos by Lokah

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