8 minute read
What to expect on your first trip to Jordan
From food and packing to visiting during Ramadan
WORDS BY ALEXIS ONG
Nestled between Syria, Israel, Iraq, and Saudi Arabia, Jordan is a neat, compact little country brimming with ancient wonders, historic monuments, and untouched nature reserves waiting to be explored. Jordan is also widely known as a modern, friendly destination for overseas visitors, with little to worry about besides the usual suspects: bargaining with street vendors and the logistics of getting around in a different country.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Jordan is considered to be a very safe, welcoming destination for tourists, and has a more socially liberal vibe than some of its neighbours. While Arabic (and various associated dialects) is the national language, English is widely spoken, especially among young people in urban areas. Jordan has a low crime rate and its citizens are generally very happy to meet and interact with visitors, especially if it means a chance to speak English. There is no particular taboo associated with drinking alcohol, which is widely available (try the local licorice-like liquor, arak, which is usually made of grapes and aniseed), but if you’re visiting during Ramadan (March 10—April 9), be mindful of local customs and the fact that most liquor stores will be closed; tourist bars and hotels that have a special licence will usually stay open. The general rule of thumb is to be respectful of Jordanian practices and people, especially when it comes to religious customs, which includes wearing appropriate clothing to holy sites.
HOW TO PACK FOR JORDAN
Depending on your plans, Jordan’s best sights usually require a lot of walking on uneven ground, so bring some good hiking boots, sneakers, or covered walking shoes to check out Petra and its other ruins. As with most desert destinations, pack in layers— trekking in the day can be hot but temperatures start to drop as soon as the sun goes down. If you’re planning on visiting Wadi Rum, the desert can get downright freezing, so bring a thick fleece and jacket. Women should bring a scarf or shawl for visiting religious areas. It is still considered unusual for women to show their bare legs, so if you’re keen on shorts, pack some leggings to wear as a base layer. Bring plenty of sunblock, a hat, some sunglasses, bug spray, and motion-sickness pills because some of the curvier rural roads can be a bit tough to handle. If you’re heading to a seaside situation or The Dead Sea, bring sandals and a one-piece. Don’t forget moisturiser!
BEDOUINS
Bedouins are the nomadic desert-dwellers of the Arabian Peninsula and North Africa, most of whom are Muslim and speak Arabic. 'Bedouin' is a broader term that encompasses many different tribes, including the Beni Hamida, Beni Sakhr, and al-Majali tribes in Jordan. Jordanian Bedouins first made their way over from the Arabian Peninsula in the 14th century—today, Bedouin tribes make up over a third of Jordan’s population and vary between fully nomadic and part-nomadic lifestyles, and some have given up the nomadic lifestyle altogether. These proud, tribal people have historically relied on livestock, camel breeding, and even fishing as a means of livelihood. Many Bedouins who live around Petra and Wadi Rum run private camping services for visitors, featuring the accoutrements of their culture, like hand-knitted goat-hair tents, Bedouin cuisine and tea.
YOU’RE GOING TO LOVE JORDANIAN FOOD
Depending on your plans, Jordan’s best sights usually Thanks to the terrific multicultural blend that goes into Levantine cultures, Jordan has an incredible range of food for even the pickiest traveller. Try moutabel—a local eggplant-based yoghurt dip, manakis, an openfaced dough with a variety of toppings (yes, like a pizza), and fattet hummus Mansaf—thin layers of flatbread served with rice, tender lamb, and fermented jameed yoghurt with almond pine nuts—is considered to be the national dish, and should be traditionally eaten with the right hand. Street food in Amman is a bustling business, and definitely recommended if you’re adventurous and make time to visit Hashem, the oldest restaurant in the city.
Visiting Jordanduring March& April?
Experiencing Jordan during Ramadan and Eid can be a veritable feast for the soul and here’s how
While some people might be concerned about travelling to Jordan during holy periods such as Ramadan, and its concluding festival, Eid al-Fitr, it has some unexpected perks—one major advantage is that there are fewer tourists, which means fewer crowds, and for most if not all Jordanians, it’s business as usual. If anything, travelling to a Muslim country during Ramadan provides nuanced insight into everyday Muslim life, and can be a truly empathetic and rewarding experience that helps reinforce respect for other cultures. While things may seem pretty quiet and subdued during the day (imagine if you couldn’t eat until sundown), streets and shops come alive after sunset and take on a whole new atmosphere with busy shops, fairy lights, and lanterns.
Here, the lowdown on what you need to know about making your way through Jordan (and other Muslim-majority countries) during this time.
RAMADAN AND EID
Ramadan is a holy month for Muslims, and is marked by a strict schedule of fasting during daylight hours; other customs that are observed include acts of charity, refraining from smoking and drinking, and generally being devout.
While the actual start date may vary slightly from year to year—this year it will commence March 10 and end April 9— Ramadan happens during the ninth month of the Islamic lunar-based calendar to commemorate the revelation of the Quran to the prophet Muhammad.
There are, of course, exceptions for fasting—these include people who are ill (including diabetics), elderly, or pregnant. Usually at sundown, people in the community help each other out by offering simple snacks (usually dates) and water to those who are delayed in getting home to eat. In fact, the post-work rush hour can get a little frantic sometimes, as people head home just before sunset to prepare to break their fast at w, the post-sunset meal.
The month of abstinence culminates in a celebration called Eid al-Fitr, which falls on the first day of the tenth month, Shawwāl. Eating is mandatory on the day of Eid itself. In terms of significance, Eid al-Fitr is a bit like Muslim New Year and Christmas rolled into one—it’s an occasion that people look forward to and take great joy in celebrating.
WHAT TO DO AS A VISITOR
Nobody expects foreign travellers to fast, but there are still some good etiquette practices that visitors can observe to respect locals who do have to fast. Visitors shouldn’t eat, smoke, or drink (including water and nonalcoholic beverages) in public out of respect for those who are fasting and have to continue functioning during the day. However, if you’re on a private tour or at Wadi Rum, your guides or hosts will continue to serve you food—if you have nowhere else to eat and they have prepared food for you, it is considered polite to apologise for having to eat in front of them; everyone is usually very generous and understanding of this necessity for nonMuslims. Still, a friendly “Ramadan Kareem” to people around you—which translates to “have a generous, blessed Ramadan”—goes a long way.
Hotels that cater to foreigners will still serve food and alcohol, and most restaurants (especially in tourist-heavy areas) will still stay open, in which you can eat your meals—just be mindful about eating and drinking around people in public. You can, of course, still buy your own snacks and drinks at supermarkets and convenience stores, but it is best to consume them somewhere off the street. Same goes for smoking cigarettes—be polite and find somewhere out of the public eye, or stick to smoking at your hotel.
For the first couple of hours following sunset, be patient about finding a place to eat, because this is when restaurant staff and café owners are usually enjoying iftar with their families and friends. Restaurants may set up streetside dining with lights to celebrate breaking the fast, which is considered a deeply communal experience. Many local businesses close for this reason, and re-open again around 9pm.
