EXPLORE: FES MEDINA

The old medina of Fes

Old tanks of the Fes's tanneries with color paint for leather. The Chouara Tannery is the oldest working tannery in the heart of the medina of Fes

A closer look at one of our most popular tour highlights

WORDS BY EMILY HUMPHREY

Step through the towering Bab Bou Jeloud (blue gate) into Fes el-Bali and you’ll be greeted with a myriad of sounds, sights and smells straight out of ancient Morocco. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this medina is easily the best-preserved old city in Morocco. Snaking through Fes, the city hailed as the country’s cultural and spiritual heart, it’s home to markets and bazaars, mosques, the 17th-century royal palace, and even the world’s oldest university. Winding paths – no cars allowed, instead you’ll see donkeys – seem to go on forever in the 540-acre warren. With 9,500 alleys, you never know what will be around the next corner. Walk in the narrow maze-like streets passing artisans at work, vendors selling leather and oils, and locals gathering to eat, shop and pray. Stop for photos in front of the famed golden gates of the Royal Palace and when hunger calls, dip into a restaurant for a mint tea and some brochettes (skewers) cooked to perfection. Morocco is famous for its leather trade and the iconic Chouara Tannery is a must-see in Fes. Arm yourself with mint leaves to mask the pungent smell (you’ve been warned!) and watch as animal skins are treated, scraped and dipped in vats of vibrant dye – they’ve used these techniques for over 1000 years. The best views are from above, on the terraces of local leather shops where your guide will talk you through the different stages of the process. There’s also a chance to see and buy the final product.

Did you know? Yellow-hued leather gets special treatment away from the pits as (expensive) saffron is used in the dye: skins are individually handdyed with the liquid gold and carefully laid out to dry in the sun.

MAIN IMAGE: The ornate Bad Bou Jeloud (blue gate) marks the entrance to the Fes medina