ROAD TO THE ROCK

Perth to Mount Augustus is a 9-day road adventure like no other

Found roughly 1,000 kilometres north of Perth in the Gascoyne Murchison region of Western Australia, Mount Augustus is the world’s biggest rock – but amazingly, many Australians have never heard of it. It is located within Mount Augustus National Park, a lush outback paradise with swimming holes, ancient rock art, a small but buzzing tourist park and the cutest outback bar you’ve ever seen. This itinerary is nine days but take it at your own pace – there’s plenty to see and do.

Day 1 — Perth to Mount Magnet

Set your GPS and prepare to ride into the sunset: today is the beginning of your Road to the Rock adventure! From Perth, slip straight through the lush expanse of the Swan Valley, past honesty boxes, quaint towns and endless fields of canola. Refuel at Dalwallinu and admire the adorable heritage exterior of the general store.

Hold onto your hunger until Paynes Find, where you’ll find a classic outback roadhouse dripping with character. This former mining settlement – so named after the first person to strike gold here, Thomas Payne – is today a tiny town centered around Paynes Find Roadhouse and it’s stuffed with posters, knick-knacks and quirky memorabilia. Order a massive President burger and sit outside by the giant gum trees to admire the glittering ruby colour of the soil (and an emu or two if you’re lucky). Before you leave, check out the old petrol pump by the bowsers – it’s a genuine relic from the days when hand pumping fuel by the litre was the ‘done thing’.

Stay further up the road tonight at Mount Magnet, a classic outback town with a laidback lure. Beyond the art deco facades of the main drag, you’ll find fabulous old pubs like the Commercial Club Hotel. Strewn with rope lights and edged by well-tended plants, it’s a peaceful spot to enjoy a thick steak or giant chicken parma. Stroll back to your accommodation at Mount Magnet Caravan Park or Miners Rest Units – be sure to look up and admire the stars.

The Granites, located near Mount Magnet

Wildflowers at Coalseam Conservation Park

Day 2 — Mount Magnet to Cue

Take your time over breakfast before hitting the road for Cue – today is an easy driving day, with plenty of stops along the way. Your first is The Granites – a striking set of rocky outcrops reaching 15 metres high, and a site of great cultural significance to the Badimia people. Especially beautiful at sunrise, when you’re most likely to spot a shy kangaroo among the boulders, The Granites are home to Aboriginal rock art – both carvings and paintings – dating back some nine thousand years. There are also some lovely rock formations to admire – keep an eye out for the ‘peephole’ through a section of rock, which looks out to the landscape – it’s almost perfectly circular.

Drop in and leave your bags with reception at Queen of The Murchison, tonight’s accommodation. Built in the 1930s as a public bar, the hotel was shut down in the 1950s for an incredible forty years before current owners resurrected it to blazing glory. High ceilings, decorative wooden architraves and classic art deco curves make this the area’s ultimate bed and breakfast.

Next stop is the ghost town of Big Bell. Established in 1935 for those who came to work in the adjacent mine, the town’s remains are a vivid illustration of the area’s epic past. Unfortunately, the Big Bell gold mine shut and residents left in search of new fortunes, leaving the town to decay. Wander the area to see collapsed houses, a crumbling church and what once must have been a grand hotel but is now a hollowed-out two-storey shell.

From here, continue on to discover the rock formation Walga Rock, Australia’s second-largest monolith (nearly two kilometres in length) and amazingly similar in structure and appearance to Uluru. If you’re feeling adventurous, it’s a 20-minute walk to the top, which will reward you with wonderful views over the region, especially at sunset. If you do stick around until dusk, however, note that the walk down can be a little tricky in the lower light – taking a torch with you might be a good idea.

Mount Augustus National Park

The Granites, near Mount Magnet

Entering Mount Augustus National Park

Day 3 — Cue to Meekatharra to Mount Augustus

Today you’re off to see the world’s biggest rock!

From here it’s a 75-minute cruise up to Meekatharra and your last chance to refuel and grab snacks before turning off the bitumen for today’s ultimate destination.

It’s roughly five hours from here to Mount Augustus. Admire the unusual colour of the earth, which flows continuously between chalky white soils, fields of olivecoloured scrub and a dark, ruby red moonscape. If you stop for a look at Mount Gould Lockup – an abandoned police station from the 1800s, on the right side of the road (it’s signposted) – be sure to look closely at the ground: it’s covered in rocks of quartz!

As you approach Mount Augustus, the rock’s outline can be hard to distinguish in afternoon shadow, but don’t worry – there’ll be plenty of time to admire it properly. Start by taking the 40-minute loop drive around the base of the rock. As you edge around to its northern face, you’ll begin to see its resemblance to Uluru – and begin to appreciate just how enormous it is. Mount Augustus Tourist Park is on the loop (signposted), so pull up and check into your cabin.

This surprisingly lush, well-tended patch of paradise is resplendent with bright green lawns and one of the cutest open-air bars you’ll ever see, housed in a little wooden structure and surrounded by towering gum trees, so you may wish to spend the final hours of the afternoon settling in. As the sun dips toward the horizon, the rock will begin its spectacular daily show of changing colours. It’s the perfect moment for a celebratory drink of something cold. Today you’re going to climb Mount Augustus’ peak. For the best experience, make sure you prepare a lunch and plenty of water the night before, and leave before dawn to make your way around the rock to the entrance of the Summit Trail (be sure to carry sun protection, too). Classified as a Grade 4 (out of 5) walk, the hike is a challenging six-hour return adventure – and well worth it. Along the way you’ll be greeted by impressive views and a beautifully clear silence punctuated only by birdsong, with just two posted signs, and a chain of coloured dots to mark your path.

You’ll know when you’ve reached the peak by the handbuilt rock cairn that greets you. There’s a surprise waiting for you at the summit too, which we won’t spoil, other than to tell you to look for the picnic table. Enjoy a congratulatory sandwich while you sit; you’ve earned it. Cool off with a dip at Cattle Pool, perhaps, or retreat to the air-conditioned comfort of your cabin.

Paynes Find Roadhouse

Day 4 — Mount Augustus

Tomorrow you’ll be tackling the hike to Mount Augustus’ peak, so take it easy today – there’s plenty to see and do around its base. You may wish to set off for the Flintstone Rock walk, for starters: this incredible little trail is only 500 metres but takes you to a set of ancient Aboriginal petroglyphs (carvings in rock) – they’re hidden under a large slab of rock that bridges a creek; crawl underneath to spot them. A sign by the walk entrance will show you the way.

You may also wish to take yourself for a swim at Cattle Pool today; this blissful freshwater spot really is worth a dip, especially if a lazy afternoon siesta is involved afterwards. There are several other walking trails in and around the rock, ask at the tourist park for recommendations. Drive to one of the lookouts such as Emu Hill for the best views of the sunset. Today you depart the rock for yet more incredible sights. Refuel at the tourist park before you go, making sure to ask for directions to Kennedy Range National Park, as varying road conditions along the gravel will dictate which route is best. If using a GPS, set it to Temple Gorge, which is located within Kennedy Range National Park.

Mount Augustus National Park

Day 5 — Mount Augustus

Today you’re going to climb Mount Augustus’ peak. For the best experience, make sure you prepare a lunch and plenty of water the night before, and leave before dawn to make your way around the rock to the entrance of the Summit Trail (be sure to carry sun protection, too). Classified as a Grade 4 (out of 5) walk, the hike is a challenging six-hour return adventure – and well worth it. Along the way you’ll be greeted by impressive views and a beautifully clear silence punctuated only by birdsong, with just two posted signs, and a chain of coloured dots to mark your path.

You’ll know when you’ve reached the peak by the hand-built rock cairn that greets you. There’s a surprise waiting for you at the summit too, which we won’t spoil, other than to tell you to look for the picnic table. Enjoy a congratulatory sandwich while you sit; you’ve earned it. Cool off with a dip at Cattle Pool, perhaps, or retreat to the air-conditioned comfort of your cabin.

Honeycomb Gorge Kennedy Range National Park

Day 6 — Mount Augustus to Gascoyne Junction

Today you depart the rock for yet more incredible sights. Refuel at the tourist park before you go, making sure to ask for directions to Kennedy Range National Park, as varying road conditions along the gravel will dictate which route is best. If using a GPS, set it to Temple Gorge, which is located within Kennedy Range National Park.

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself pulling over to take photos along the way,but resist the urge to spend too long: there are plenty more wildflowers to see in coming days, and the exquisite Kennedy Range is one of Australia’s most underrated sights. With a magnificent cliff face that extends for several kilometres, which looks rather like the result of a giant serrated knife, it would be easy to spend several days exploring the park.

If time is short however, make your way to one of the more approachable trails. Honeycomb Gorge is the park’s most popular spot; an easy 500-metre walk from the carpark will reward you with the unusual sight of this enormous gorge, with walls pockmarked like honeycomb. While here, you may spot the area’s distinctive Dawson’s burrowing bees – these lovely native creatures can be found buzzing about the small pool at Honeycomb Gorge between July and September. Perhaps explore one of the other trails (information and maps are signposted by the park entrance) before heading to the nearby town, Gascoyne Junction. Spend the night at Junction Tourist Park; clean and well-appointed, and the adjacent bistro does great pub food in a bright, modern and airy environment.

Queen of the Murchison Hotel

Day 7 — Gascoyne Junction to Wooleen Station

Refuel at the roadhouse onsite and get ready to leave the bitumen once more: today you’re headed south, to famous Wooleen Station where you’ll learn first-hand about life on the farm on this afternoon’s guided sunset tour. Hosted by David, this fascinating experience concludes (with permission) at Tanjimooka, an Indigenous sacred site found on the property, which is not dissimilar in appearance to Australia’s famous Devils Marbles in Tennant Creek. Stay at Wooleen Station at the beautiful seven-bedroom homestead, a rambling colonial treasure heritage-listed by the National Trust.

Gascoyne Junction Town

Aboriginal rock art at Walga Rock, located near Cue

Day 8 — Wooleen Station

There’s no shortage of things to do here. Feeling active? Borrow a mountain bicycle and set off on one of the signposted trails. Twitchers may wish to head to Yewlands Pool or Wooleen Lake, where several notable bird species have begun to return since new land management practices were introduced. If it’s hot, head to the Murchison River. This serenely still body of water, surrounded by wide, sandy banks and giant, wizened gumtrees is perfect for a cool afternoon swim. Whatever you choose, make sure your schedule has you back for dinner. In line with your hosts’ sustainability principles, much of the food is grown organically on site, and their memorable meals are served over several courses at a long table lit by candlelight, with a generous helping of conviviality alongside the homestead’s other guests.

Wooleen Lake at Sunset

Day 9 — Wooleen Station to Perth

The adventures are almost over, but today you’re in for one last treat. Depart early and set your GPS for Coalseam Conservation Park. This sheltered valley, with its mineral-rich soils, has created ideal conditions for a stunning display of wildflowers, like WA’s native everlastings, which bloom here in carpets so thickly knotted it’s nigh on impossible to see the ground beneath. As you drive through the valley, expect anything from the faintest blush of rose to a celebratory hot pink; from cream to bright yellow; and all shades in between. After you’ve completely used up your camera’s memory card (it’ll be easy), hop back in the car and make your way back to Perth.

Couple in bright podolepis wildflowers near Windajinni Rocks, Wooleen Station

Kennedy Range National Park

MAIN IMAGE: Wooleen Station