ry a t en m i l p m o c
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ELGIN
Apples & pears, grapes & wine: Elgin’s diverse offering
Talking whisky
Around the globe with Kirstie McCallum The A-B-C of
BEER Ale & hearty
How active are your holidays?
Hiking, skiing, paddling, cycling:
win
Masterchef Pete Goffe-Wood’s new book
Blended red wines
A nesting chair worth R6 000 from Two Oceans wines
Tasting: Olive Brook Quintette 2011, Rust en Vrede Estate 2011, Cederberg Shiraz/
Merlot 2010, The Chocolate Bock 2013, Beyerskloof Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012, Wolftrap Red 2013, Orange River Cellars Lyra 2011 & Edgbaston The Pepper Pot 2012.
O&M CAPE TOWN 77463/E
THE CARLING BLACK LABEL CUP IS BACK
BE THE CHAMPION COACH OR VOTE ONLINE AT:
WWW.CARLINGBLACKLABEL.CO.ZA
Terms and conditions apply.
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.
contents
4 EDITOR’S LETTER On being a polite guest
6 NEWS
TOPS at SPAR Bierfest, Belvedere and Ketel One vodkas, a new Grant’s whisky release, Windhoek Lager’s big winner and more
6
14 TINUS TALKS
Rueful overindulgence analysed?
16 ARTFUL MIXING
Crafting blended red wines
24 APPLE & WINE VALLEY The birth of Elgin’s wine identity
22
16 30 A DICTIONARY OF BEER From Ale to ZZZZ
34 WOMAN OF WHISKY Bunnahabhain’s Dr Kirstie McCallum
38 ACTIVE TRAVEL Vacations with woema
38
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
www.topsatspar.co.za 1
contents cont... 46 55
Publisher | Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za Editor | Fiona Mc Donald fiona@integratedmedia.co.za Art Director | Megan Merifield megan@integratedmedia.co.za Advertising | Jess Nosworthy jess@integratedmedia.co.za PR & Promotions | Ashlee Attwood ash@integratedmedia.co.za Photography | Ashlee Attwood and Thinkstock.com Contributors | Tinus van Niekerk , Teresa Ulyate Emile Joubert, Gerrit Rautenbach, Norman McFarlane, Samarie Smith and Hayley New. Head Office | Cape Town Tel: 021 685 0285 Suite WB03 Tannery Park 23 Belmont Road, Rondebosch, 7700 Postal Address: PO Box 259, Rondebosch, 7701
42
Printing | Paarl Media Cape Published by | Integrated Media for TOPS at SPAR
42 THINGAMAJIGS Keeping it clean...
TOPS at SPAR | Jess Nicholson, Group Promotions & Advertising Manager - Liquor
44 BOOKS, DVDS & CDS The stuff of dreams
46 HITTING THE HIGH NOTES
stockists:
South Africa’s operatic talent
SPAR Good Living items are available at your nearest TOPS at SPAR and SPAR outlets. www.topsatspar.co.za and www.spar.co.za
50 BOOK GIVEAWAY Reminiscing and recipes by Masterchef SA’s Pete Goffe-Wood
55 TOPS NOSH
Mr Price Home www.mrphome.com & Poetry www.poetrystores.co.za
win
COMPETITION TERMS & CONDITIONS
one of two copies of a life digested
pg50
Soup: steaming sustenance
of Integrated Media will be final and no circumstances shall Integrated Media, TOPS at SPAR, SPAR or its appointed representatives and the prize donors be liable to anyone who enters these Prize
Moroccan spice delight
Draws for an indirect or consequential loss howsoever arising which may be suffered in relation to the Prize
64 EMILE JOUBERT
Draws. By entering these competitions you make
68 NEXT ISSUE What to look out for in Issue 20
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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
yourself subject to receiving promotional information.
win
Waterblommetjies in die Boland
Dining in style
no alternatives or cash will be provided. The decision correspondence will be entered into. Under no
60 BLOGSPOT
66 SOCIAL ETIQUETTE
Competition submissions should reach us no later than 14th August 2015. The Prize/s is as indicated,
69 Win one of five
nesting chairs from Two Oceans wines to the value of R6000 each 72 LOOPDOP
’n Lekker storie oor drop
Entrants are deemed to have accepted these terms and conditions. Prize Draw Rules: The prize draw is only open to consumers who must be over 18 years of age and resident in South Africa. Employees of Integrated Media and TOPS at SPAR, SPAR and their respective advertising, media and PR agencies, as well as the family members, consultants, directors, associates and trading partners of such organisations and persons are ineligible for the draw. Participants can only win one competition every 3 issues.
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.
Editorial Fiona McDonald
Blended reds How much is enough? There was a delicate balance to be struck between modestly enjoying someone’s generosity and being a complete oinker and hogging the whole bottle…
Kanonkop Paul Sauer. Kanonkop is one
night in Stellenbosch. It was a
of the country’s most consistently good
friend’s birthday dinner and her
producers, renowned for their Pinotage
husband had placed a few fantastic
(they were one of the first ever farms to
bottles of wine, both white and red, on
commercially bottle one), Cabernet
the table.
Sauvignon and their blended red, the
As often happens at events such as these, people’s tastes become obvious. One guest loved the predinner bubbly so that’s all she drank for the rest of the evening. Someone else had moved onto a Chardonnay after the bubbles and was happy to lower the level in that bottle because he was enjoying it. However… myself and two
I could almost hear chubby angels plucking harp strings on puffy clouds…
n pa
ge 20
That was the contribution of the time spent in oak barrel which had imparted firm tannins to the wine. And the length of flavour… It just lingered on and on. It was superb! I restricted myself to two modest glasses – but I know that if the others hadn’t been enjoying it equally, I would happily have polished
Although the other single varietal
It was one of those drinking
do
Tasting - the red blends
Paul Sauer.
others tucked into a beautifully aged red blend.
ea
R
I
t all started on a wet and wintry
reds have won their fair share of
off the whole bottle. I spent the next few days flashing
experiences that make you realise
awards, the Paul Sauer is a blend of
back to that memorable wine. I kept
there really is a good reason for ageing
mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with
thinking about how complex and yet
certain wines in order to enjoy them at
around 30% of Cabernet Franc and
simple that wine had been. Complex in
their peak. This wine was most certainly
Merlot – and it has trounced some of
that it had been like an onion, with
at the pinnacle of its evolution – and
the world’s finest Bordeaux-style
layers of different things to discover
what a triumph it was. I could almost
blends in international competitions
which engaged me intellectually – but
hear chubby angels plucking harp
many times.
there was also the simplicity of it: it was
strings on puffy clouds… it was that heavenly! The wine was a 2004
Fiona McDonald is a trained journalist who has spent the last 20 years writing about wine – and more recently, about whisky too.
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Ju|Aug 2015 Vol 19
But I wasn’t drinking medals, I was revelling in a wine that glided over my
delicious. I liked it. Simple as that. Ultimately, that’s what wine should
taste buds like slippery silk or satin! It
be. Yes, we can wax lyrical and throw
was so textured, elegant, refined,
all sorts of words around about
layered with supple, ripe, soft fruit –
structure, complexity, fruit and
black cherries, blackcurrant and plums
winemaking but the proof of the
– and then there was a hint of cocoa
pudding is in whether people find it
and spice too. It wasn’t flabby or overly
tasty and want to enjoy a second – or
soft: there was a firm backbone holding
third! – glass.
it all together and keeping it structured.
Cheers, Fiona
TRY ME
LIGHT UP THE MOMENT NEW SMIRNOFF速 STORM PINE TWIST
Not for sale to persons under the age of 18. Drink responsibly.
News
news news news news Brews and Oompah bands October is traditionally the month awash with celebrations of German beer, eisbein and sauerkraut. The South African celebrations – which TOPS at SPAR plays a significant role in hosting – are held at venues throughout the country, from Durban to Cape Town and Johannesburg. For logistical reasons, the party starts early on the East Coast with Durban’s Suncoast casino kicking off the annual Bierfest on the weekend of the 4th and 5th of September. Johannesburg then follows with the popularity and crowd support seeing it staged at Montecasino over two weekends: 9 – 11 October and 16 and 17 October. Cape Town’s Newlands brewery precinct is the venue for the final event on the 6th, 7th and 8th of November. Once again, expect to find frauleins serving generous steins of specially brewed festival beers to the accompaniment of typically Bavarian oompah bands. There will be men dressed in lederhosen and funny hats enjoying the occasion too. Cash is not king, crowns or tokens are exchanged for beers and booking of tables of six or more is advised. And an insider’s tip is to pre-order platters of tasty food served to your party’s table in order to save the hassle and stress of letting your beer warm up while you queue for chicken or eisbein.
There are a host of different packages and ticket options available. Check out the website, www.bierfest.co.za for more details. 6 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
what’s happening
news news news news Dark delights
Lourensford wine estate in Somerset West is well renowned for its wines, restaurants, cheesery, coffee bean roastery and the magnificence of its polo grounds which also doubles as a wedding and function venue at the foot of the Hottentots Holland mountains. On the 25th and 26th of July, however, the focus will be on chocolate at the country’s first ever gourmet Chocolate Festival. The aim of the festival is not to simply revel in the delicious flavour and taste of the processed cocoa bean in all forms and shapes, liquid and solid, but to promote skill, creativity and craft – and also to reveal new talents and help budding entrepreneurs. The idea is also to help raise awareness of the chocolate industry in the country and to ensure that high standards of craftsmanship – and also ethical sourcing – are maintained. Expect top pastry chefs, specialist master chocolatiers and fondant artists to offer master classes and displays alongside the many market stalls. For more details of the specific lectures and demonstrations for which booking is advised, visit www.winelandschocolatefestival.co.za
Day of wine and fu n Journey’s End winery at
Sir Lowry’s Pass is the venue of a unique – and somewhat quirky – fun day on September 13. Members of the Premium Independent
Wineries of South Africa – 13 of the country’s top independent, boutique wineries – will present their wines for tasting and sale… from the boot of a variety of vintage and retro sports cars! For those who prefer activity, there will be a Wine Olympics – featuring wine spitting, barrel rolling as well as grape & spoon and three ‘legless’ races. Furthermore, there will be live music as well as food trucks, market stalls and a host of activities for children. Tickets are R150 per head, available from Quicket at https://www.quicket.co.za/events/9699-piwosa-wine-car-boot/.
Image
makeover With two years to go to celebrating its 21st birthday, Savanna cider was deemed in need of an image revamp. And while the emperor might be wearing new clothes, nothing else has changed: it’s still the same deliciously dry apple cider on the inside. In the fast-paced, social media savvy world we currently occupy, the only constant Is change so the proverbial mould was broken to make a completely new glass bottle. Like the contents, the Savanna bottle stands bold, confident and easy on the eye –yet remains refreshingly simple. From its new crown design, to its longer, slimmer neckline and stronger, more manly shoulders, the Savanna bottle is on trend for a distinctive drinking experience. And true to its contemporary social media hipness, all of the changes were appropriately documented on various channels:
savannacider @SavannaCider SavannaCider savannacider
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
7
News
news news news news Taking it in stride
Mika Häkkinen was Grand Prix racing’s original Flying Finn, twice being crowned Formula One world champion in 1998 and 1999. He was a teammate of the legendary Ayrton Senna as well as Nigel Mansell and David Coulthard and was rated by Ron Dennis as the only driver to outperform Michael Schumacher in his prime. Recently Häkkinen accepted a Johnnie Walker Gentleman’s Wager: he would hand over the keys of a rare and classic 1958 Mercedes Benz 300SL Roadster – but only if South African rally driver and TV presenter Gugu Zulu was able to train a total novice to set a Kyalami lap time of within five seconds of Häkkinen’s. That’s no mean challenge… for Zulu and his novice driver, businessman Vusi Thembekwayo. Ultimately he came close, very close – but missed it by a narrow margin, clocking up a lap time of 2:05.9 to Häkkinen’s 2:00.4. But in the true Gentleman’s Spirit, Häkkinen graciously handed over the keys anyway! “I am really impressed,” the cool former world champion said, “Gugu did an incredible job of training Thembekwayo to really push himself – in the true Johnnie Walker spirit of always striving for progress – to achieve a result beyond all expectations.” Thembekwayo, already an achiever as the youngest ever JSE director and noted international motivational speaker, said he thoroughly enjoyed
achievement and the attainment of true
the challenge. “I’ve done some
rarity and success through hard work and
amazing things in my life and learning
commitment. We are very proud to have
to race ranks right up there with the
facilitated this wager.”
best of them. It was an honour to take part in this wager and to work with Gugu Zulu and Mika Häkkinen.” Johnnie Walker South Africa’s Whisky Portfolio Manager, Zumi Njongwe, agreed: “The #walkerwager campaign ultimately celebrates personal progression, 8 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Scan the QR Code to check out the footage of the training and final timed sessions on www.youtube.com it makes for really compelling, and entertaining, viewing!
what’s happening
news news news news Four years ago the United Nations declared July 30 International Friendship Day. It’s believed that the tradition dates back as far as 1919, with Americans in particular sending cards or exchanging friendship bracelets.
Celebrating friendship
A bit of basic internet trawling reveals that one of the prime movers behind this celebration was Joyce Hall, one of the founders of Hallmark cards. The idea is to simply celebrate friends and the roles they play in our lives. South Africa’s favourite cream liqueur, Amarula, has a favourite recipe for sharing a good time with friends, chocolate mousse and a dash of vodka – the African dusk martini.
INGREDIENTS: (per serving)
2 shots (50ml) Amarula Cream 1 shot (25ml) vodka 1 cup (250ml) chocolate mousse Shaved or grated white and/or dark chocolate (for garnishing) Raspberries (optional, for garnishing) Glass: Chilled martini (no ice) Garnish: Shaved or grated white and/ or dark chocolate, and raspberries (optional) METHOD: Combine the Amarula Cream, vodka and chocolate mousse in a cocktail shaker or container with a lid to seal. Shake well and strain into the chilled martini glass. Don’t add ice. Garnish with shaved or grated white and/or dark chocolate, and raspberries (optional). Visit www.amarula.com for fabulous recipes, gifting inspirations and interesting facts about Amarula.
World Class Mother City
Cape Town was one of the World Design Capitals in 2014 – and it is continuing to ride the success of that event after being selected as the official host city of World Class global finals, the first time this prestigious mixology competition has been held anywhere in Africa. “We welcome the Global Finals as another addition to our events calendar as part of
our efforts to secure Cape Town as the events capital of Africa,” said Cape Town mayor Patricia de Lille. “The global finals have been hosted by many major cities in the world and Cape Town is proud to be ranked among the best. We look forward to hosting the many dynamic talents that will take part in the event.” First held in 2009 the Diageo Reserve World Class competition rapidly came to be recognised as the world’s leading mixology competition. At its core is the aim of elevating the craft of bartending and in just six short years it’s been credited with setting not just international standards but cocktail trends globally. “World Class is all about anticipating trends, being at the forefront of fine drinking culture and always looking for new and exciting innovations in our industry,” commented Matteo Fantacchiotti, global vice president commercial of Diageo Reserve. “These are the key criteria we look at when we select the location of the global finals. Africa ticks all these boxes and more; it is a booming and ever-changing continent and we see it as a new frontier with huge potential.” South Africa’s three regional ambassadors who will be competing are Alex Farnell of Gauteng, Haroon Haffajee of KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape’s Bradley Jacobs. Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
9
News
news news news news Cheesy jazz
If you’re in the winelands of the Western Cape between June and August and find yourself at a loose end, you should consider visiting Delheim estate outside Stellenbosch.
One of the three original members of the Stellenbosch Wine Route, the family-run winery hosts cheese fondues and jazz indulgences every Sunday lunch from 28 June to 30 August. The events feel even more cosy because they are hosted in the original underground weinstube with its barrel-vaulted ceilings. Groups get to huddle over pots of melted cheese, occasionally stirring and frequently dipping freshly baked baguette chunks or vegetable crudités into the fondue made to an authentic Swiss recipe which combines Emmental and Gruyere cheeses with white wine. The cost is R200 a head and includes a welcoming glass of glühwein on arrival at 12h30. For more details or to book a spot, contact Delheim at (021) 888 4607/079 7353 257 or send an email to restaurant@delheim.com
Keeping cool
With the Rugby World Cup on our doorstep, one fun, vibrant and driven Johannesburg based company have the perfect product to back the Bokke come rugby time. Frosty Neoprene Coolers are thermal
insulators, which not only look fantastic, they serve a very functional purpose. Neoprene maintains flexibility over a wide temperature range. Which means when you put your ice cold beverage into a Frosty Cooler, it’s going to stay cold. And in these winter months your hands will stay warm! 10 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Frosty is an official license holder for SA Rugby and come September, our boys will be in England - so show your spirit and gear your brew of choice in green and gold. Your brew deserves that jersey too! As well as SA Rugby, Frosty also holds licenses for the Lions, Stormers, Sharks, Bulls and Cheetahs. Soccer licenses include Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Check out their online shop at www.frosty.co.za for more details and for prices of the various products.
what’s happening
news news news news Fraternity and family
South African bar tenders, cocktail lovers and the media were treated to a master class in distilling expertise earlier this year when Bob Nolet, the 11th generation of the Nolet distilling family visited the country to introduce Ketel One vodka. That’s a family tradition of vodka distilling stretching back 300 years!
Having travelled from Holland to South Africa, Nolet said he was delighted to combine work with a master class which was essentially a pleasure. “I am proud to present Ketel One to South Africa, sharing its heritage and distinctive flavour with bartenders, media and cocktail lovers. I am passionate about engaging with anyone interested in the world of fine spirit and who wants to learn more about this superb vodka, which has been crafted by my family since 1983,” said Bob Nolet. Global brand ambassador Justin Smyth said Ketel One vodka was like no other. “It’s an exceptional modern vodka, which stems from three centuries of tradition and craftsmanship. “The Nolet Distillery in Shciedam, Holland, still stands and operates as it has done since it opened in 1691,” Smyth said, predicting that Ketel One would soon become a staple in bars, hotels, restaurants and cocktail cabinets throughout the country.
Truly select
Grant’s is one of the most recognised family names in Scottish whisky distilling, with a proud history and tradition stretching back generations. But in spite of their history, they are constantly innovating. Their latest release is something new on the South African market, the Grant’s Select Reserve which hit the shelves in May. The whisky is a blend of hand-picked whiskies which deliver a notably sweet yet rich and peaty flavour in a delicious, multi-layered mouthful. Vanilla charms and warms the taste buds with light hints of fresh fruit and some subtle spicy notes too. Throughout there’s a light peat smoke keeping the nose and mouth engaged, all the way through to its long, lingering smoky farewell. “This is an exciting period for us,” said Grant’s SA marketing manager Lauren Kuhlmey. “We believe that Grant’s Select Reserve is a premium, yet accessible offering in the blended whisky category. We hope that this new variant sets a
News
ac are eys to Ru al k e th r e ov on Handing Butelezi and nati arz. w i b ch S m e is Th hr anager C m t n u o cc a
news news news news Double cab happiness
ensdregt
Ruac Wo
Ruac Woensdregt is a very happy camper: the 20-year-old Kimberley resident entered the Windhoek/TOPS at SPAR competition while on holiday in Hermanus earlier this year – and for his trouble recently took possession of a set of keys to a brand-new Toyota Hilux double cab! “It’s a dream come true,” the young man said. “I can’t believe I won!” He entered on a whim while enjoying the sunshine in the Western Cape’s whale watching hot spot. “I was having a great holiday in Hermanus when I saw the competition and decided to enter.”
Oak-aged beer
Beer is viewed as a simple beverage, not something that people are used to sniffing and sipping like they would whisky or wine. But Scottish brewers Innis & Gunn are looking to change that perception. A three-strong range of oak-aged handcrafted brews are now available in South Africa and have been very well received. The original Innis & Gunn original is slow brewed in small batches before ageing fora 77 days in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon maturation. The resulting brew is deliciously creamy, packed with caramel and honeyed notes which make it ideal for matching with food. The two new expressions are a toasted India Pale Ale which harks back to the original 1880’s style of beer and a rum-finish which spends 57 days in American oak barrels and boasts a fruity spice note typical of rum.
The proud owner of a R340 000 Toyota Hilux was effusive in his thanks to both TOPS at SPAR in Hermanus as well as Windhoek beer. “We are really happy for Ruac. From all of us at Windhoek Beer, we hope he thoroughly enjoys his prize,” said Windhoek brand manager Thembi Butelezi. Butelezi said Windhoek were really pleased at how the beer buying public responded to the competition. “There was great interest country-wide, both because of the prize and an extremely easy entry mechanic.” All customers had to do was buy a case of Windhoek Draught at any of the 600-plus TOPS at SPAR stores nationwide before SMSing the case barcode to 32329 for automatic entry into the draw. Butelezi said the two month duration of the competition allowed a lot of scope for participation with the winner finally chosen at random by means of a lucky draw which was monitored by independent auditor, Deloitte.
“The next time I visit family in Hermanus it’ll be in my amazing Toyota Hilux bakkie,”
a delighted Woensdregt quipped at the handover.
Bolder yet smoother
The brand promise of a new version of Belvedere vodka is that it is more bold, more intense and yet more smooth and distinguished.
Vodka is frequently considered one of the most neutral of the broad array of distilled spirits since it lacks the overt botanicals of gin or the nuances imparted to whisky by maturation in Bourbon or Sherry oak casks. Specially chosen baker’s top grade grain, cultivated on a number of select Polish farms is the secret behind the new Belvedere vodka. Media material states that the special characteristics of Dankowskie rye – a creamy rye – are elevated and intensified, particularly after being distilled four times. Belvedere is also bottled unfiltered in order that the consumer experience the true character and taste.
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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
NEW HUNTER’S EXTREME BOLD WITH GUARANA
BOLD TASTE Hunter’s Extreme BOLD with a kick of Guarana is a NEW variant in the Hunter’s Extreme portfolio.
HOW IS IT DIFFERENT TO THE ORIGINAL HUNTER’S EXTREME? Offering the same explosion of refreshing apple combined with the natural energy taste and kick of Guarana, and as the name states, it’s even bolder. NEW Taste Characteristics: • Bold Guarana Taste • Intense Flavour • Refreshing Apple • Tropical Notes • Alcohol Content: 5% • Colour: Gold
bigger. bolder. better #GOBOLD WITH HUNTER’S EXTREME BOLD ON W W W. H U N T E R S E X T R E M E . C O . ZA
Tinus Talks
One too many… Drinker’s remorse is invariably felt a day late and a few dollars short! Is there any language other than Afrikaans which comes close to being able to onomatopoeically express that one is babelaas?
A
than alcohol, you consumed – as well as the kind of beverage you drank. A main culprit in inducing hangovers is the presence of congeners in the beverage. These are substances primarily produced during
1960 article on alcohol for The
The most common affliction is of
fermentation, or added to enhance
New Yorker, quoted an
course the hangover, the terrible state
flavours. In this respect the general rule
eminent 15th-century German
which results when too much alcohol
is that darker drinks like whisky and red
physician, Hieronymus Brunschwig, on
has been consumed. The symptoms
wine contain higher levels of
the following physical maladies, all
manifest in physical, emotional and
congeners, as opposed to light-
curable by brandy: “head sores, pallor,
cognitive symptoms. It is a known fact
coloured alcoholic beverages such as
baldness, deafness, lethargy,
that people suffering from hangovers
white wine, gin, and vodka.
toothache, mouth cankers, bad breath,
show delayed reaction time, tend to
swollen breasts, short-windedness,
have a shorter attention span, iffy
habits and gender also play a role in
indigestion, flatulence, jaundice,
concentration, and lack visual-spatial
hangover suffering. Somewhat unfairly,
dropsy, gout, bladder infections, kidney
perception for the duration of the
habitually heavy drinkers seem to
stones, fever, dog bites, and infestation
hangover. Somewhat ironic that drink
experience “softer” or milder
with lice or fleas.”
driving laws are so strict yet none exist
hangovers, whilst women will get drunk
to cater for driving with a hangover.
faster than men, partly because of their
Alas, Hieronymus makes no mention of the downside from the intake and
The emotional after-effects are
In addition the drinker’s own social
physiological makeup and lower
affect of alcohol which easily
referred to by Kingsley Amis as
volume of water in their bodies as well
personifies the devil itself when
“metaphysical” in kind:“When that
as decreased levels of the enzyme
alcoholic beverages are consumed
ineffable compound of depression,
alcohol dehydrogenase, which breaks
without discretion, at times resulting in
sadness (these two are not the same),
down alcohol. Therefore, they have a
short and long term physical, emotional
anxiety, self-hatred, sense of failure and
lower tolerance for liquor. Finally, one’s
and mental ailments.
fear for the future begins to steal over
genes, as with everything else about
you, start telling yourself that what you
human beings, also play a role.
Tinus van Niekerk is TOPS at SPAR’s wine consultant and has been instrumental in refining the grocery chain’s wine offering. But wine is not the only thing that fascinates this Northern Cape-bred nature lover. He’s as au fait with bush lore, animal behaviour and geology as he is about wine.
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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
have is a hangover. . . You have not
References to hangovers in different
suffered a minor brain lesion, you are
languages are almost poetically
not all that bad at your job, your family
hilarious, the Swedes think they get
and friends are not leagued in a
“smacked from behind”, Salvadorans
conspiracy of barely maintained
awake “made of rubber,” and the
silence about what a sh*t you are, you
French with a “wooden mouth”, or with
have not come at last to see life as it
a “hair ache.” The Dutch and the
really is.” It sounds bad, does it not?
Germans tell you they have a
The severity of a hangover does not
“tomcat,” while the Danes are
only depend on how much you drank
convinced they get “carpenters in the
beforehand, but also what else, other
forehead.”
Tinus van Niekerk
HOW ABOUT HANGOVER CURES?
In the “The Hangover Handbook” Nic van Oudtshoorn suggests a recipe for an emetic, mixing mustard powder with water, and if you have “bed spins,” advocates sleep with one foot on the floor. A more sensible recommendation is drinking a lot of water, to match every glass of alcoholic beverage you take. Most important though, is to drink with consideration and discretion, including not opting for wines that are rough, pertinently alcoholic and overall inelegant on taste and palate. It is a fact that alcohol in wine affects and even inhibits our experience and enjoyment of aromas and flavours. When alcohol exceeds more than 12% of a wine’s volume, it becomes possible to discern its irritating, quite pungent effects in the mouth and nose, especially if the wine does not contain sufficient flavour and fruit properties to balance and mask it. As such, higher-alcohol wines, particularly those that surpass 14-15% and more, are often described as “hot” and unbalanced, also causing lip-burn at times. Flavour chemistry dictates that in wines with higher alcohol levels, lacking flavour personality and fruit expression, bitterness will be accentuated, the acidity freshness will be reduced and there will be a diminished release of most aroma molecules. Alcohol particularly suppresses fruity and floral aromas, with the result that the remaining aromas will be primarily woody (in oaked wines), herbaceous and vegetal (onedimensional) of nature. What remains then is that one should imbibe with utmost selection and discretion, and also ensure that the wine – regardless of price – is of exemplary sensory quality, with all components in balance: indeed, worth serving at the royal table.
Most important though, is to drink with consideration and discretion Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
15
Wine
Creative The rule of thumb when it comes to wine blending is that the sum of the parts should exceed the whole. Fiona McDonald investigates red blends.
S
outh Africa is richly blessed in many ways: this country has
some of the oldest soils in the
world, and farmers are able to successfully grow a broad range of different grapes in those soils – yet with vineyards stretching from the Cederberg and beyond to Elim and even Plettenberg Bay on the southern Cape coast, it’s possible to get a wide array of expressions from the same grape! But that also makes it difficult. In France, for example, vintners have realised over centuries which grapes perform best in certain areas – and explains why Burgundy focuses solely on
16 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Mixing it up
merger Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, or why the
Malbec grapes. If you pick up a
Rhone concentrates primarily on Shiraz.
Bordeaux wine you know it will contain
In South Africa you can get Chardonnay (or Chenin Blanc or Shiraz
30% of our homegrown grape Pinotage,
one, two, three or more of those specific
making it a so-called Cape blend.
grape varieties in varying proportions.
Perhaps we are TOO
touchstone for looking at the merging
And perhaps that should be the
or Cabernet Sauvignon…. ) from Stellenbosch to the Swartland to Elgin! Which makes it somewhat confusing for
richly blessed?!
of the various grapes when considering
the consumer. It also means that when it
In France’s Bordeaux region where red
acquiring a comforting red blend to
comes to red blends the consumer
blends are the style of wine made – they
stave off the winter chill.
faces the bewildering prospect of the
grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
wine potentially being a Bordeaux-style
Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and
blend – or the catchall non-Bordeaux blend. And in the latter category, anything goes! It could be a wine utilising predominantly Shiraz – which makes it a Rhone-style blend, or at least
Internationally and locally, recognition is unanimous that some of
In France, for example, vintners have realised over centuries which grapes perform best in certain areas Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
17
Wine
South Africa’s best wines are red
South African wines, among them were
for old South African red blends, among
Bordeaux-style blends: Kanonkop Paul
a 1965 Chateau Libertas and 1965,
them Masters of Wine Tim Atkin and
Sauer, Meerlust Rubicon, Rust en Vrede,
1969 and 1970 Zonnebloem Cabernet
Neal Martin. Martin has the important
Ernie Els, De Toren Fusion V, Rustenberg
Sauvignon. TOPS at SPAR wine fundi
task of pronouncing on the South
John X Merriman, Jordan Cobbler’s Hill
Christian Eedes who was also at the
African category for the massively
and Chateau Libertas.
tasting reported that Spurrier was
influential eRobertParker.com website,
Hopefully no-one fell off their chair
immensely impressed with these wines.
regarded as one of the most important
reading the last name – because it’s a
(Note, the Zonnebloem’s were not pure
in the wine world. He has gone on
wine which deserves to rub shoulders
Cabernet, having been bottled prior to
record as having stated that SA red
with some of the country’s most highly
the adoption of wine legislation about
wines can not only survive, but age well.
prized wines. And older examples of
minimum percentages of blend
Chateau Libertas which have been
components.)
well cellared are often hauled out for
“There’s an extraordinary confidence
As with many things, the real history of blended Bordeaux-style reds is quite recent. One of the first of the modern
visiting wine luminaries – to great effect.
and warmth about these wines.
generation was Meerlust with their
In early May, Steven Spurrier, consultant
Contrast this with Chateau Margaux,
ground-breaking 1980 Rubicon. Three
editor to Decanter magazine and the
for instance, which released a non-
decades later and the blend of
man internationally renowned for
vintage wine in 1965 as it was busy
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot created
having organised the 1976 Judgement
going bust.” Eedes reported that
by legendary winemaker Giorgio Dalla
of Paris in which Californian wines rated
Spurrier said of the 1970 Zonnebloem
Cia is not only going strong but still
more highly than their French
that there were not “too many
critically acclaimed and winning medals.
counterparts, was in South Africa for a
Haut-Medocs to match it”.
wine competition.
Spurrier happened to be the most
The night before the competition, the judges gathered for a tasting of old 18 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Kanonkop is perhaps more acclaimed with its Paul Sauer blend of
recent of the international wine
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
cognoscenti to express genuine praise
Cabernet Franc having won the
Mixing it up
Spurrier happened to be the most recent of the international wine cognoscenti to express genuine praise for old South African red blends
International Wine & Spirit
of the blend – but over the years it has
flavour, texture, succulence and
Competition’s blended red trophy on
varied. The current expression
interest. Sure, an apple is crunchy and
more than one occasion, notably for
frequently contains both Shiraz and
juicy – but a fruit salad is so much more!
the 1991, 1995, 2003 and 2009 vintages
Ruby Cabernet.
It can be soft and squishy as well as
– the only wine to have ever done so! The history of Chateau Libertas is
Anyone doubting its worthiness should consider the fact that the British
crunchy. There can be sweetness as well as tangy vibrancy. And that’s what red blends should
inextricably linked with William Charles
Royal Family were served Chateau
(Bill) Winshaw, an American who
Libertas at the official State banquet
offer: complexity rather than the
began Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery
during their visit in 1947 – as well as at a
simplicity of a single grape variety,
(SFW) – which was ultimately merged
dinner in 1960 when British Prime
deeper texture and broader, richer
with Distillers Corporation in 2000 to
Minister Harold Macmillan visited the
mouthfeel – and just more interest and
form the current SA wine giant, Distell.
country and made his famous ‘winds of
excitement overall. The even better
It was at his instigation that Chateau
change’ speech in Parliament.
news is that there is literally something
Libertas, a light blended red wine, was
It’s important to remember that the
created way back in 1932. Original
point of a truly great red blend – such
records of precisely what the wine
as Meerlust Rubicon, De Toren Fusion V
contained were either lost or never
or Ernie Els – is that the whole should be
kept and even old South African wine
more attractive, more appealing, more
hands such as Duimpie Bayly and
drinkable and delicious than any of the
Dave Hughes who worked at SFW
individual components that have gone
could only state with any certainty that
into its making. I sometimes liken it to
Cabernet Sauvignon always comprised
the difference between enjoying just
a portion of the blend. For many years,
an apple or a single pear and a bowl
the humble Cinsaut grape formed part
of fruit salad which is packed with
for everybody – with a range of different blends at a variety of price points.
turn for tastings Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
19
Wine
Olive Brook Quintette 2011
A classic Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The bouquet offers up mulberries, cedar, cassis and cherry – with flavours of the same found in the mouth. Luscious and opulent, the palate is textured and long with structure and tannin backbone. A rich, generous and well integrated wine, it will last well. Roast leg of lamb or perhaps a rack of lamb will be an ideal match.
The Tastings Available at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores
20 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141
Tastings
Cederberg Shiraz/Merlot 2010
Aromas of sweet plum and blackcurrant fruit, underscored with hints of spices and oak vanilla. Accessible, smooth and well balanced on the palate with lengthy fruit-laden flavours. A perfect companion to traditional roast dishes, lamb, venison and mildly flavoured cheeses.
Fundi selection
Rust en Vrede Estate 2011
A classic Stellenbosch red, this wine is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz and Merlot playing supporting roles. There’s a seductive violet perfume with sour plums, cassis and hint of cinnamon spice. The palate is refined,
The Chocolate Block 2013
If this wine was a movie, it would be a smash hit! It’s popular with wine lovers because of its approachability and noticeable cocoa/chocolate nuance. It’s mainly Syrah with some Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsaut added. Expect to find bright red cherries and plums on the nose and palate. Generous and juicy with a rich, powerful body with some firm tannin backbone. It’ll pair with anything from pizza and pasta like spaghetti bolognaise to stews and grills.
elegant and genteel with silky, ripe blackberry fruit. The oak is well integrated and there’s ample backbone and structure for this wine to last for a decade or longer. Another wine for a roast – beef and Yorkshire pudding – or a rare steak, rich casserole or grilled ribs. Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
21
Wine
Beyerskloof Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012 Red fruit aromas with wafts of plums, cassis and spice. Good
fruit intensity on the palate, mingled with soft oak impressions. The ideal acidity and firm but ripe tannins render a well structured wine, most suitable to enjoy with beef, poultry, venison and pasta dishes.
Fundi selection
Wolftrap Red 2013
This blend of Shiraz and Mourvèdre has just a splash (2%) of Viognier which adds a delicate floral note to the nose. Succulent and juicy in the mouth with bold, generous plum fruit and notes of spice. Light and easy drinking, this wine will match anything from a boerewors roll to a hearty beef or lamb potjie.
Fundi selection
Edgbaston The Pepper Pot 2012
Blend of Rhône varietals: Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Grenache and Tannat. A generous, full-bodied wine with ample black pepper, red fruit, floral and general spice driven aromas and flavours, structured on a platform of firm but accessible tannins. Try pairing it with venison stew, carpaccio, hearty lamb and bobotie. 22 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Orange River Cellars Lyra 2011
Oaky coconut whiffs dominate the red fruit aromas of this blend Petit Verdot-driven blend. The palate is also overtly vanilla and spice flavoured with black berries and fruitcake nuances then coming through. Light to medium bodied, the oak needs time to integrate. Perhaps best paired with robust flavours of spicy ribs or barbequed meat.
Wine Route
So cool it’s hot Traditionally an apple and pear growing region, Elgin has seen the number of wine producers explode from five in 2005 to nearly 30 just one decade later. Samarie Smith reports on this hottest of cool wine areas.
“
And the weather for Elgin is forecast
Paul Cluver
as cool with overcast conditions
and the mercury rising from a crisp 6 degrees to the middle to high teens…” That radio weather forecast was theatrically confirmed by the thick cloud and engulfing the Hottentots Holland Mountains. Similar to Table Mountain, the southeaster drapes these mountains in a white table cloth which pours itself over the rocky crags in misty plumes. I take in
WWW.OLDMACDADDY.CO.ZA
the beautiful views of the Cape
Old Mac Daddy
WWW.CLUVER.COM
bank draping the top of Sir Lowry’s Pass
Elgin is situated in a natural
Metropole and False Bay, bathed in
amphitheatre of mountains etched out
bright sunlight. Reaching the summit the
over millennia; home to a vast array of
road bends left where I enter a fishpond-
soil types contributing to a terroir ideal
like highland valley; the sea of green
for the cultivation of noble grape
fynbos and vegetation soaking up a fine
varieties. From a high vantage point
misty rain. Welcome to the Elgin region,
one can see the rocky outcrops and
the home of apple orchards, Appletiser
the untamed terrain unique to the
and more recently, vineyards.
Kogelberg biosphere with the green undulating hills in the background. Especially known for white cultivars, stellar five star wines in the 2015 Platter Wine Guide include Iona Chardonnay 2013, Kershaw Elgin Clonal Selection
24 www.topsatspar.co.za
WWW.SOUTHHIL.CO.ZA
WWW.OAKVALLEYWINES.COM
Chardonnay 2013 and Oak Valley
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Mountain Reserve White Blend 2010. These are aptly supported by other Elgin wineries receiving 4 and 4½ star ratings and which also excel on other wine platforms.
This beautiful and now flourishing valley had humble beginnings in the 1800’s being solely inhabited by subsistence farmers. “Let me rather first share some of the valley’s history,” says Dr Paul Cluver, whose great-grandfather bought De Rust farm in 1896. “Only when the pass was built in 1828 did it bring more opportunities to the valley. In 1821, approximately 4 500 ox wagons crossed the mountain annually of which around 20% were damaged irreparably. It was apples which brought a defining shift from a struggling existence to that of entrepreneurship.” Grabouw was founded on the farm, Grietjiesgat, owned by Wilhelm Langschmidt. He named the village Grabouw after his place of birth in
What to do when visiting Tours can be arranged to the
packing houses during applepicking season (January to May). Call Norma Bridgman 021 848-9060. Alternatively there is also the Elgin Apple Museum on the banks of the Palmiet River. Make sure to stop at a celebrating its 50th year. Elgin Open Gardens: 31 October & 1 November and 7 & 8 November 2015 The Wine2Whales bike race is a huge annual attraction. Mountain bike enthusiasts also visit for trails like Cape Pines, Oak Valley and Paul Cluver. The original ox wagon-route over the mountain is also part of the annual Absa Cape Epic. The Hope @ Paul Cluver amphitheatre is popular in summer months, supporting a good cause to uplift the local communities. Adventurous visitors always have something to look forward. If not water sports, accommodation with a difference: from a house in the vineyards at South Hill, the Old Mac Daddy airstream caravans, or tented accommodation by the riverside. Contact the Elgin valley tourism
WWW.PEREGRINEFARMSTALL.CO.ZA
at 021 848 9838 or send email toinfo@elginvalley.co.za Luncheon options varies from the green lawns of Paul Cluver (Fresh Restaurant), under the oak trees at Oak Valley (The Pool Room
Peregrine
Open gardens
farm stall like Peregrine, now
restaurant) to the Peregrine Farmstall.
FNB WINE2WHALES
The Land of Apples & Orchards
WWW.ELGINOPENGARDENS.CO.ZA - 2014:PALMIET RIVER
Elgin
Wine2Whales Germany. In the early 1900’s, three bachelor sons of Sir John Charles Molteno, the first prime minister of the Cape, bought a farm here and planted apples which saw the start of what was to become one of the largest apple exporting enterprises globally. The farm was named Glen Elgin after their home town in Scotland. With the industrial advancement of steam trains came the railway. Realising its potential, the brothers donated a portion of land to establish a railway station, named Elgin Station. The fruit industry peaked in the 1950’s after World War II. Rationing was still a feature of daily life in Europe and anything canned was welcomed. It was a boom time for apple exports – a boom that lasted a few decades until a global market collapse when apple prices plummeted. Apples were no longer profitable.
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
25
Wine Route
Shannon Wines
Just a few years before this, the Elgin region was identified as having potential as a cool wine growing region. The apple industry was not the concerted efforts of the local
WWW.ELGINWINE.CO.ZA
WWW.SHANNONWINES.COM
abandoned entirely and it was only
Almenkerk Wines
farmers that saw the industry revitalised to what it is today with 2 585 hectares under orchard producing 12% of the global industry’s apple and pear crop.
Charles Fox
Vineyard naissance Elgin has a great diurnal temperature range, close proximity to the sea and south-easterly winds; colder south and
WWW.ELGINWINE.CO.ZA
WWW.CHARLESFOX.CO.ZA
east facing slopes, high altitude and a large variety of deep, well drained soils. All factors that allow grapes long hang-time on the vine, facilitating the creation of well balanced, elegant and complete wines. Along with its varied
to Villiersdorp & Franschhoek
R321 Winters Drift Wines
AD M A IN RO
Oak Valley Wines
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Cathy Marshall Wines
Almenkerk Wines
Map not to scale
LEY
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Tarred Road
ROA
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HI
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Elgin
VAL
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Elgin Ridge Wines
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South Hill Wines
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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
N2
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Shannon Wines
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E T IS
26 www.topsatspar.co.za
Paul Cluver Wines
Belfield Wines
APPL
Elgin has a great diurnal temperature range, close proximity to the sea and south-easterly winds
Elgin Valley Tourism
Spioenkop Wines
Charles Fox
Elgin Wineries
Elgin regarded as one of South Africa’s best
and Brian Smith, now call home after
by many experts.
a long search through New Zealand, France and even England. “Once we
Spioenkop Wines:
discovered Elgin there was no doubt
The energetic Belgian Koen Roose
we’d found the right place to realise
Paul Cluver Wines:
believes perseverance played a
our dream.”
Built in 1996, their winery is one of the
pivotal role in his success. This
most recognised and awarded in the
ideology is testament to the acclaim
Almenkerk Wines:
region. A hit-list has to include the
achieved for his Spioenkop 1900
Belgian winemaker, Joris Van
Rieslings and Gewürztraminer,
Pinotage 2012.
Almenkerk, came to South Africa with
award-winning noble late harvest
the same idea and was prompted by
sweet wine, as well as their premium
Charles Fox:
his winemaking mentor, Mike
Pinot Noir, Seven Flags.
Businessman and “Champagne
Dobrovic, to look ‘over the
lover” Charles Fox took his lead from
mountain’.
Cathy Marshall Wines:
the terroir and planted grapes
“I’m just the orchestrator to help Pinot
traditionally grown in Champagne:
farm! All the orchards were pulled out
Noir express itself,” said the modest
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot
and vines planted. We moved to the
Ms Marshall. “I came here to continue
Meunier, producing three excellent
valley at a time when many farms
my journey with this extraordinary
MCC wines.
changed ownership and a lot of
“A week later we owned an apple
younger generations were taking
grape.” Her Pinots reflect the soils: those grown on clay soil reflecting
South Hill Wines:
over from their fathers, creating a
almost porcelain-like tannins and a
South Hill wines not only embrace the
dynamic buzz that was almost
delicate perfume of earth and
art of wine making, but also includes
tangible.”
berries. Those from sandstone soil are
art and offers accommodation as
more robust with intense, darker fruit
part of the experience.
In their stable, the Syrah and Chardonnay are especially impressive. Their achievements are
expression.
Winters Drift Wines:
further ratified by being a CVC
Oak Valley Wines:
Winters Drift Wines is a brand of the
Member(Cape Vintners
Oak Valley is not a ‘one-trick pony’
Molteno brothers (Pty) Ltd and have
Classification), an independent body
and has a highly regarded export
their Tasting Station aptly housed in
that selects less than 20 Estates in
flower business, one of the largest in
the historic Elgin Station. The recently
South Africa to represent distinctive
Africa. They also farm ethically with
launched 51 Miles range pays tribute
and site specific wines.
beef and pork, guaranteed pasture-
to the 1902 opening of the railway
reared, free-range, hormone and
line from Sir Lowry’s Pass to Caledon
Belfield Wines:
antibiotic free.
which passed through Elgin Station…
Michael Kreft of Belfield Estate
51 miles from Cape Town.
wanted to downsize, and sought out
Shannon Wines:
a smallish place to farm and consult
Elgin born and bred, James Downes
Elgin Ridge Wines:
on management and economic
has the benefit of his father having
Dorper sheep crop the grass between
issues – at a time when the fruit
farmed in the valley since 1978. “We
the vines while hefty Percheron
industry was going through a bad
make wines to express not impress –
stallion Maddox is the organic
patch. Like other Elgin farmers he
wines that tell a story of Elgin,” he says
equivalent of Elgin Ridge’s tractor
explored alternate crops and ended
– and their Mount Bullet Merlot is
and it’s where British couple, Marion
up making wine too.
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
27
Wine Route
export market those days, but Brözel showed exceptional energy. Some people understand detail but cannot see the bigger picture. Others can see WWW.WINTERSDRIFT.COM
the bigger picture but don’t have the patience to deal with the detail. Brözel had the ability to do both,” said retired neurosurgeon Dr Cluver. This “experimentally vinified” product impressed wine writers at a 1990 tasting. Wynboer magazine described it as, “delicate, yet distinct flavours”, which drew attention to this newfound gem of an area. De Rust was then renamed Paul Cluver and they produced their first WWW.WINTERSDRIFT.COM
Riesling under their own name in 1991. Anthony Rawbone-Viljoen, custodian of Oak Valley, tells how his greatgrandfather, Sir Antonie Viljoen, made history when he bought the farm in 1898 and began shaping his first wine. “Cinsault, Palomino and Groendruif (Semillon) were planted on the farm in terroir, the potential for distinctive
the early 1900’s. The winery was built in
wines, both white and red, is a given.
1907 although we also sold grapes to
Since the turn of the 21st century,
Douglas Green to produce sparkling wine. With the post-war conditions in
to benefit from these cool wine
Europe we had to eventually close the
growing conditions. It was, however, all
cellar but we would later build on this
due to the vision and drive of pioneers like Paul Cluver and the RawboneViljoen family of neighbouring Oak Valley in the 1980’s that vineyards were
WWW.BELFIELD.CO.ZA
there’s been an influx of people looking
legacy. At the same time when Brözel negotiated with Cluver, we decided to
Belfield
stay independent.” Oak Valley ventured into a project
planted. They were the two farms
with the Nietvoorbij research centre in
selected by Nederburg’s Günter Brözel
Stellenbosch which approached them
and Ernst Le Roux to be part of
to take part in a cultivar evaluation
experimental plantings.
trial. Nietvoorbij supplied the material different cultivars and clones like
“40 hectares of vines were to be
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Weisser
the technical assistance and material
Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer,
to make the first Riesling with the Wine of Origin Elgin status in the Nederburg stable. People thought we were crazy to plant anything not destined for the 28 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
WWW.BELFIELD.CO.ZA
planted on De Rust with SFW providing
Pinot Noir and Merlot. Prof Eben Archer headed the trial and made a
Belfield
comparative study to see which cultivars performed best.
Elgin was officially classified and it continues to attract winemakers and enthusiasts,
Since the turn of the 21st century, there’s been an influx of people looking to benefit from these cool wine growing conditions.
including free thinkers like the late Klein Constantia winemaker, Ross Gower, Master of Wine Richard Kershaw and Cathy Marshall, all of whom travelled the world making wine before they chose Elgin to put down roots. Elgin boasts some impressive producers: Iona, Shannon, Wildekrans, Spioenkop, South Hill, Charles Fox, Winter’s Drift, Elgin Ridge, Almenkerk, Elgin Vintners, Lothian, Paul Wallace, Oneiric, Glen Erskine, Corder, Highlands Road and Belfield Estate. The allure of this unique terroir has not only caught the eye of the locals but is sought-after by estates and individuals such as KWV and Neil Ellis,
“In 1991 we started to produce commercially after Nietvoorbij
which either buy grapes from this area
recommended we plant Chardonnay,
or – like Vrede and Lust, Tokara and
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot.
Thelema – have invested in pockets of
We sold Sauvignon Blanc grapes to
vineyards in the valley.
Bouchard Finlayson whose wine was well rated in the Platter wine guide. It provided an indication of what we could do.”
It was in 1990 that Elgin was officially recognised as a wine ward. RawboneViljoen recalls, “I’ll never forget the day in 1990 when the valley was declared an official wine ward. Duimpie Bayly,
WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM
A new Wine of Origin is born
Chairman of the Demarcation
Elgin Ridge Elgin Ridge
Committee, said it was the easiest decision he ever had to make. He brought a cooler box filled with champagne up the mountain so we
to miss – the sequence of rolling hills, the cool air… unique factors that account for wines of origin Elgin.” It’s been nearly 15 years since Elgin
WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM
classification. And he was right: it’s hard
WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM
could celebrate our distinctive
Elgin Ridge Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
29
IS FOR Ale…
Beer
Etymology is the study of words while linguistics is the study of language. Any specialist pursuit or hobby has its own vocabulary or lexicon. What follows below is the language of beer.
The Austrian philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein said:
“The limits of my language mean the limits of my world.” And Nelson Mandela is quoted as having said that when you speak to a man in a language he understands, it goes to his head. “When you talk to a man in his language, it goes to his heart.” Which explains why he consciously learned to speak Afrikaans well, seen by his many freedom struggle compatriots as the ‘tongue of the racist oppressors’. Yet his Afrikaans fluency broke down barriers and led to better understanding and communication between the African National Congress and the former National Party government during South Africa’s fraught political transition to democracy. Having the ability to fully understand, describe and communicate what you mean demands a good vocabulary – regardless of what it is that you are describing, art, science, engineering – or beer! Before heading into beer vocabulary basics, there are some interesting facts about beer. Few people who consume the golden brew on a daily basis actually know or even appreciate its ancient history. According to the Dictionary of Beer & Brewing by Dan Rabin and Carl Forget, the practise began in ancient Mesopotamia between 6000 and 7000 years ago. It was in the fertile crescent of land between the Tigris and Euphrates, where grain and barley were easily cultivated and which formed a staple of people’s diets that fermentation and brewing was discovered. Because food preparation and provision of water was women’s work, brewing became part of the household chores. Which might also explain why the ancient Sumerians used to sing songs of praise to Ninkasi, the goddess of brewing rather than a male counterpart. Beer brewing also apparently remained woman’s work until the Middle Ages. 30 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
language Scholars and academics studying ancient clay tablets have discovered that as far back as 4 500 BCE up to 19 different kinds of beer or ale were produced by the Babylonians, the same book states. In fact, Hammurabi, the Babylonian king even enacted legislation governing beer – including a daily ration of beer which varied according to social status. “(French emperor) Charlemagne also promoted the birth of brewing science. From his era (8th Century) emerged the world’s first modern brewer, Saint Gall. Refining the brewing process, Gall introduced methods for mashing, fermenting, storing and caring for ale that changed the character of European ale. “The precedent established by Charlemagne combined with the power of the church enabled monks to control brewing over the next several centuries. Monks not only had the time but also the inclination to brew the most premium beer possible. Monastery meals were frugal; a pleasant tasting, nutritious brew was highly desirable as an accompaniment. Liquids were also not considered to break a fast, so beer was always permitted, and beer consumption in monasteries reached astonishing levels – it is recorded that in some monasteries monks were allowed as much as five litres per day.” (If anyone wants to read more about the origins of beer, the Dictionary of Beer & Brewing retails for around $15.95 from online book sellers.)
A
is for Ale, the historic brew made initially only from barley, water
C
is for carbonation, the light sparkle from carbon dioxide in
and yeast but frequently spices and
the brew which not only helps to give
herbs were added. Hops only became
beer its distinctive foamy head but also
part of the recipe centuries later. Ales
the drinker a surfeit of gas, with
are top-fermented beers and typically
resulting gastric discomfort often
brewed at warmer temperatures.
relieved by means of a burp or belch!
B
is for Barley and Bitters. Barley is the cereal grain used as the base
D
H
is for Hops: Hops is a small conelike flower which grows on a vine –
and only the female plant yields these
is for Draught – a beer poured into
flowers which impart the distinctive bitter
a glass directly from the keg by
aroma and flavour to beer. There are a
for the production of beer – and other
means of a tap. So never bottled or
myriad different types of hops grown
distilled spirits such as whisky, for
otherwise packaged, it’s often
around the world, with the Saaz hop
example. Bitters doesn’t describe the
considered fresher and more tasty
being just one of them. It’s considered an
aromatic liquid used to colour and
as a result.
essential part of the brewing process.
flavour gaudy cocktails but describes the sharpness of flavour imparted to a
E
is for Esters, the technical sounding term for things which
beer by hops. Hops is added during the
impart smells to beer, often described
boiling stage of brewing and the longer
as fruity or flowery aromas.
it’s part of the process, the more bitter the final brew will be.
B
F
the mid-1800’s.
carbon dioxide by the action of
difference between top and bottom…
yeast inoculation.
G
a strongly hopped brew which could
by which the sugars in the cereal
grain are converted into alcohol and
than floating on the top. Hence the
the East India Company which wanted withstand the sea voyage to India in
– the opposite of top fermentation.
base of the fermentation tank rather
pale ale developed specifically for
is for fermentation – the process
is also for Bottom Fermentation
In this process, yeast cells sink to the
I
is for India Pale Ale or IPA – a style of
J
is for the Joy which results from supping on a perfectly chilled
glass of golden nectar with
is for Grist – which is when the
condensation dewing
grains of barley and malt are
the outside of the glass…
ground up finely to get them ready for the brewing process of mashing.
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
31
Beer
O
is for Oktoberfest, held in Munich, Bavaria for two weeks in late
September and into October. It’s been held annually since 1810 and is a celebration of Bavarian culture involving beer, food, music and gemütlichkeit, originally started to mark the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig to a Saxe-Coburg Princess, Therese.
K
P
is Pilsener – the very hoppy, pale, golden brew first fermented in the
Q R
is for Quality – see Rheinheitsgebot below.
is for Keg, the cylindrical vessel
Czechoslovakian town of Plzen in 1842.
used for the storage and transport
It is a bottom-fermented beer which
of beer. Historically kegs were wooden
usually has an alcohol by volume of
William IV, Duke of Bavaria, who
but nowadays are manufactured from
around 5%. One of the most
decreed that only barley, hops and
aluminium or steel for their ability to
international examples is Pilsner
water could be used in the making of
withstand the pressure of the carbon
Urquell, a product which was patented
beer. Nothing else.
dioxide filled beverage. A keg
as far back as 1898. It’s now one of the
generally contains 30 gallons or around
many global brands in the SAB stable.
is for Rheinheitsgebot – the beer purity law introduced in 1516 by
S
is for Stout, a dark brown, almost black brew which commonly
is also for Pale Ale – a brew initially
P
boasts a thick, creamy head.
made from pale malt, a less smoky,
The colour and flavour is derived
roasted barley which naturally imparted
from the roasted barley
fermenting yeast at colder
a lighter colour and less hoppy flavour.
which is almost charred
temperatures. Lagering was developed
And let’s not forget Porter – the dark,
by a German brewer. Prior to this it
hoppy, slightly bitter, top-fermented beer
used to only be possible to brew beer
which was brewed for porters, labourers
seasonally – and this cooler process,
and carters by Ralph Harwood in
assisted by the development of
London’s Shoreditch area in 1730. It was
refrigeration in the mid-1800’s,
believed that this “stronger” beer would
allowed for year round brewing while
provide the strength needed by these
also producing a clearer, crisp and
men in their manual labours. The dark
cleaner beer.
colour came from the use of roasted,
120 litres of beer.
L
is for Lager, any type of beer fermented with a bottom
M
is for Munich, home to the
unmalted barley. It eventually fell out of
world’s largest beer festival – the
favour with straight bitter taking over.
Oktoberfest (see below). It also stands for Malt, the processed barley which has been saturated in water and begun
P
is also for Pint, one-eighth of a gallon – or in metric terms 567ml.
the process of germination before being dried so that its starches can be fermented.
N
is for Ninkasi, the ancient Sumatran goddess of beer,
before being fermented. It imparts a
worshipped through the ages but
rich chocolate or coffee flavour to the
somehow forgotten in modern times.
resulting beverage.
32 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
language
U V
is text speak for YOU,
the consumer… is for Volume – specifically alcohol by volume which varies
according to different styles of beer, from light at 1 or 2% to heavy such as the Trappist brews which weigh in with
T
anything from 5% to 7, 8, 9 and even is for Trappist beer, brewed in only 11 Trappist monasteries
worldwide, six in Belgium, two in the
10% alcohol by volume.
W
is for Weiss beer or Witbier – which can mean beer made
Netherlands and one each in Italy,
from wheat or the Belgian term for
Austria and the United States. It’s
white beer, also brewed from wheat.
subject to certain laws and
This type of beer can be cloudy or
consequently has to be brewed within
crystal clear when filtered, and
the walls of a Trappist monastery, the
the taste is fresh and smooth,
beer quality should be non-negotiable
sometimes spicy, with a noticeable
and excellent, the brewery should be
lack of hop bitterness.
only of secondary importance to the monastery and it should be a non-profit venture.
T
X
is difficult to find but how about the beers with X in their name –
Mexico’s Dos Equis and Australia’s
is also for Top Fermentation, a
Castlemain XXXX lager? The two x’s on
method favoured in the making
the former’s label were the Roman
Y
is for Yeast – one of most
of ales in which the yeast cells rise to
numerals for 10, signalling the heralding
the surface of the tank during alcoholic
in of the 20th century. The Aussie brew
brewing process. Yeast kick starts the
fermentation.
began in 1924 and those four x’s were
fermentation process and feeds on the
used to indicate that this was a strongly
fermentable sugars, converting them
flavoured beer.
into alcohol.
Z
necessary ingredients in the
– Zzzzzz – the noise made when gently snoring after enjoying and
ale or lager. (Sources: Dictionary of Beer & Brewing; www.beeradvocate.com; www.craftbeer.com/beer-glossary; www.wikipedia.com)
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
33
spirits
Woman of spirit
never been a problem. There have obviously been some jokes told which were probably not appropriate for women but you develop a tough skin. It’s never impacted my career.” Attitudes are changing – both among the men in the whisky industry but also among women who are now thinking
“It’s a bit of shock, I tell you,” Dr Kirstie McCallum states, casting a
glance over her shoulder at the yacht basin adjacent to the Cape Grace Hotel’s Bascule whisky bar with Table Mountain’s rugged sandstone façade looming large in the distance.
“When I left New York a day or two ago it was minus 25 degrees and snowing – and I’ve hit Cape Town’s hot summer with a bang.
She’s a trained analytical chemist, whisky blender and now the globetrotting brand ambassador for Scottish Leader and Bunnahabhain – but it all happened “by accident”, Dr Kirstie McCallum admits.
about potential career paths. “There
are more women coming through,” she said in an interview granted in 2009. “There are a lot
more females behind the scenes on the sensory side. I don’t know if it’s ever been proven but it’s said that women have better noses than men.” Perhaps that’s why, McCallum told The Scotsman newspaper, her job as a blender was likened to that of a parfumier. “You’re looking at
characteristics, tasting notes; there’s definitely a correlation. We’re searching for base notes,
I’m loving it!” she said when
floral notes, you’ve really got to
interviewed a few months ago.
examine the whole character of
And on the topic of shocks, her
the spirit, not just one part of it.
appointment by Burn Stewart Distillers
Whiskies are so complex that you
as a head blender – one of the first
might get a dominant note in a
woman and certainly the youngest
whisky but find that there are a
ever – was greeted with a few raised
lot of things playing underneath
eyebrows a few years ago. But
the surface.”
McCallum doesn’t see herself as a
Her unfettered delight in visiting
flag-waving feminist, saying instead
South Africa and the Mother City for the
that she’s only ever experienced
first time is patently obvious. After years
support and encouragement from her
in windowless laboratories she is loving
colleagues in the whisky industry.
her peripatetic lifestyle of airports,
“I’ve been on sites where I’ve been the only woman – and it’s 34 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
passports, hotel room and living out of a suitcase – even if packing for trips
whisky such as this latest one present logistical challenges to her wardrobe selection. She admits she was lazy at school and had “no clue” about what to do afterwards. It was only after leaving school that she discovered her aptitude for chemistry – and she followed that path all the way through to a doctorate in the subject from Glasgow University. She had a vague idea of possibly going into cancer research before she fell into the whisky industry after being offered a short term contract with a grain distillery. The rest, as they say, is history. McCallum gained experience at both Glasgow’s Port Dundas distillery as well as Chivas Brothers as part of the technical team – which also saw her working with rum and other spirits. She joined Burns Stewart Distillers − bought in 2013 by South African company
becomes animated. “We have two
different styles of events that we offer with Bunnahabhain, for
example, one is a cocktails and
canapé pairing and the other is a full on dinner match with the
entire range of Bunnahabhain whiskies – the 12-year-old,
18-year-old and 25-year-old.” “There’s this Scottish
chocolatier in the Highlands who
That’s one of the things she loves most about her exposure to the fascinating world of whisky: there is literally a whisky for every taste. The area of origin, the time in barrel, the type of barrel whether ex-Bourbon or Sherry or Port cask – all have a role to play in the final product which is bottled and placed on the shelf for the willing buyer. As she stated in The Scotsman some years ago: “I know it sounds really
makes the most amazing
sad but I love my job.”
Highlands cream and spices.
different cask samples: “There’s so
artisanal chocolates using
Those – with Bunnahabhain whiskies – are a particular
favourite of mine, especially the lemongrass cream and the
12-year-old! Makes me salivate at the thought…”
One of the surprise elements of the
That stretches from looking at
much variety that you’re always coming across something new. It’s amazing to me that I can walk through a warehouse full of casks and find so many different flavours there. Different ages, different ways of maturation – all
Distell − in 2007 and has spent some of
dinner pairing is the ‘cheeseburger’
these things make such a
her happiest times with the company.
dessert.
difference to the end product. It’s
“I spent a lot of time working
“People are so surprised by this,”
with master blender Ian
McCallum recounts with obvious glee.
MacMillan and learned so much.”
“It’s a sweet macaroon with a
She concedes that her nearly six years in a laboratory left her itching to get out from behind the equipment and engage with consumers. “I love
talking to people – and I know the passion that people have for the product. Consumers know their brand and love it deeply.”
chocolate fondant filling and a slice
of mango on top. That’s served with the 25-year-old Bunnahabhain. It’s
really quite exciting sometimes.” These days it includes dropping her dog off at her parents’ home before flying to multiple cities and continents in the space of a few weeks, spreading the gospel of whisky and interacting
totally unexpected and people are
with consumers.
when they experience how well it
shut the door on a return to the
actually quite pleasantly shocked works.”
What intrigues McCallum is how
As much as she’s loving it, she’s not laboratory. “I’d like to go back to
blending one day. Having been
tastes differ. In Sweden, she says, they
exposed to direct consumer
blenders to get out and mingle to
love heavily peated, smoky and
feedback can only be useful if and
hear what consumers think about
powerful whiskies while other countries
when I’m back at the bench
the product.”
prefer lighter, gentler styles. “You
nosing and tasting whisky
“I think it’s really good for
It was when she began giving master
can’t tar everyone with the same
classes in whisky appreciation and
brush and say men prefer heavier
food and whisky pairing that she
whiskies and women lighter
moved her focus beyond the walls of
whiskies. Not at all: it’s a very
the tasting laboratory. Start asking her
personal thing – and is also quite
about what works well and she
mood driven.”
samples making up blends.”
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
35
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A collection of good times waiting to happen.
Leisure
Boulder s Hermanus
38 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
holidays
t Whale h ig R n r e h t Sou
Thrills vs chills?
What sort of vacation do you prefer: one spent lounging around soaking up the sun with a frosty cocktail glass close by, or one where the day is not long enough for you to fit in all the things you want to do? Fiona McDonald looks at active holidays.
T
here’s a bit of wordplay involved
ticked all the boxes. They have
but it is indeed possible to merge
involved a journey away from home,
being idle while having an idyll.
beautiful surroundings, rest and
That’s because the dictionary definition
relaxation, time to read a book and
of the word idyll is “an extremely
simply do nothing. But the best
happy, peaceful, or picturesque period
recollections are of the activities
or situation, typically an idealized or
involved on those same trips– cycling
unsustainable one”. And that of idle is
along the Loire river visiting Chateaux in
of being lazy, avoiding work and of
France, cruising the Canal du Midi in a
something that is pointless and “without
barge, paddling the Orange river In
purpose or effect”.
Namibia, skiing a snowy slope in Chile
A holiday, the dictionary states, is “an extended period of leisure and
or walking the Whale Trail at De Hoop. Even the lazy holidays have been
recreation, especially one spent away
relatively active! In December one year
from home or travelling”. Vacations are
I camped with friends in an indigenous
intended to be a break from the daily
forest at the northern tip of KwaZulu-
grind, the reality of waking up, flinging
Natal – at Mabibi. While much of our
some cereal in a bowl or a slice of
time was spent sprawled on a beach,
bread in the toaster and munching it in
there were also hours spent finning
a hurry while getting the kids dressed
along in the clear, warm water with a
and off to school and then facing the
mask and snorkel, gazing at impossibly
commute to work to earn your daily
bright tropical fish, a moray eel and
crust. It’s intended to recharge your
octopus or two. Then there was the five
batteries, replenish your zest for life and
kilometre night hike to look for nesting
also allow you the luxury of indulging
leatherback turtles, the games of
yourself – either in food, drink or even
beach cricket and Frisbee tossing…
an afternoon nap.
And let me warn you about beach
Some of the fondest memories of
access: there were in excess of 120
holidays I have are those which have
steps down to – and up from! – the Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
39
Leisure
working on a tan while reading a book. And if anyone doesn’t want to do the day’s swim, there’s always a spot on the chase boat from which to watch beach, laden down like a pack donkey with cooler boxes, umbrellas,
the other participants splash about. It came about after Simon Murie, the
bags of towels, bats, Frisbees and
founder of SwimTrek, wanted to swim
snorkelling kit!
the Hellespont, a stretch of water in northern Turkey which divides Europe
HOLIDAYS ARE ABOUT DOING THINGS YOU WOULDN’T NORMALLY DO. Even the cultural days of visiting a
he made the crossing in 1810. After a
physically taxing with all the amount
through red tape, Murie crossed in an hour… “This total imbalance between time organising and time swimming
travel industry that markets activity
made me realise that there must be
holidays. Cycling and walking tours
other swimmers out there who wanted
make up the largest part of this but it’s
to do these swims but didn’t want to
possible to find any sort of activity that you can imagine. Cooking tours, surfing tours, diving all sorts of exotic locations, overland safaris, mountain trekking, skiing… and there are even swimming holidays. Yup! Swimming… SwimTrek is a British operator (www.swimtrek.com) which organises fabulous holidays for
Active travel is, at its heart, a way of connecting more authentically with the world
people who love splashing around in
spend the time organising it all. Hence
open water. Their website details
the idea behind SwimTrek was born!”
itineraries for holidaymakers to swim
he writes on their website.
from island to island in Greece – or
Similarly, Tom Hale, the president and
along the Dalmatian coast in Croatia,
founder of American operator,
lakes in natural parks in Slovenia,
Backroads Travel, found himself
America and the Caribbean – or even
wanting to connect and immerse
some of the waters in the Lake District.
himself in the life of a region, rather
It’s geared at keen open water
than superficially viewing it from the
swimmers, a sporting activity that is just
window of a bus or car.
exploding in the United Kingdom – and
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
the Greek hero Leander’s swim when week of organisation and cutting
But there is a specific segment of the
40 www.topsatspar.co.za
mythology – and Lord Byron replicated
museum or art gallery can be of walking involved!
Richtersveld
from Asia. It was made famous in Greek
“I simply can’t imagine a better way
the holiday involves instruction and
to immerse yourself in the life of a
stroke correction should you want it.
region, to explore hidden corners and
But it’s not obsessive: there’s lots of
appreciate nuances while enjoying the
down time with relaxing side trips, time
benefits and enormous satisfaction of
spent in tavernas or around the pool
travelling under your own power. Active
holidays
lot of interesting optional activities, such as glacier walking, kayaking, hiking, a scenic flight and cruise, and of course bungee jumping!” Friends of mine plan walking holidays in Europe every year. They’ve strolled the magnificent Cinque Terre in Italy, seen Spain and parts of Germany – and the stories they
Orange River
ana Sodw
tell about sitting in weinstubes, or cantinas and bistros, engaging with the locals are entrancing. Others have done cooking classes in Thailand and come home armed with fantastic recipes and
travel is, at its heart, a way of
new skills which they then share with
connecting more authentically with the
friends and family. And while it is possible
world,” Hale wrote on www.backroads.
to organise them yourself, so often it’s
com. “When I think about all the places
easier and even more cost efficient to
I still have left to explore, and those I
do it through a tour operator. They’ve
want to revisit and enjoy again, I’m
been in the game for ages and offer
constantly reminded what a gift it is to
everything you need – including
be able to explore the world actively.”
bicycles, GPS handsets, helmets and will
And he’s not alone. Here’s a testimonial from one traveller, Jennifer Wu of Ohio: “What a fantastic trip! Great
even ensure your luggage is carted from hotel to hotel for you. No muss, no fuss! Frequently, idle holidays involve
biking! I kept thinking how lucky I was to
indulgence in too much braai or beer
be in New Zealand as I rode down the
and result in a kilogram or two to shed at
coast, through peaceful countryside,
the end of it. So there’s something to be
past lakes and rivers of unbelievable
said for being able to watch the sunset,
shades of blue, through the rainforest,
nibbling on a few snacks, drink in hand,
and up and over the Southern Alps.
anticipating a good dinner, knowing
There was quite a bit of flexibility in the
that you cycled, walked (or swam!) a
itinerary to do as much or as little biking
few kilometres, and the danger of
as one wanted, as well as time to do a
packing on the pounds is limited!
...there’s something to be said for being able to watch the sunset, nibbling on a few snacks, drink in hand, anticipating a good dinner, knowing that you cycled, walked (or swam!) a few kilometres... Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
41
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42 www.topsatspar.co.za Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
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16 Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
www.topsatspar.co.za 43
Entertainment
Visions and dreams music
Author Matt Haig writes: “The tunnel does have light at the end of it, even if we haven’t been able to see it... Words, just sometimes, really can set you free.” And there are echoes of those sentiments in this issue’s collections of music, movies and books ‒ from first ever American Idol winner Kelly Clarkson’s new album with the anthemic tune Stronger already receiving good airplay, to the Oscar-winner Marion Cotillard’s portrayal of an immigrant fresh off the boat ‒ to Haig’s remarkable story
cd’s
Mumford & Sons – Wilder Mind The third album marks a major change in the British band’s sound. Graduating from the banjo-plucking, stomp-and-clap neo-folk movement they helped create, the quartet embraces a bold and electrifying brand of stadium-filling alt-rock. There’s hardly an acoustic guitar used on Wilder Mind, where producer James Ford (Arctic Monkeys, Florence + The Machine) presents the band’s stuck-in-your-head, heart-on-sleeve songcraft with echoing, spacious authority. With thick electric guitars and atmospheric keyboards, hard-driving anthems like “Believe” or “The Wolf” prove that one of the decade’s most distinctive bands is every bit as powerful with the electricity turned on. Death Cab for Cutie – Kintsugi Death Cab for Cutie named their eighth studio album after a Japanese art movement in which broken ceramics are fused together again with precious metals. It’s a symbolic statement from a band at a crossroads: though Kintsugi is their last release with founding guitarist and longtime producer Chris Walla, its elegantly layered indie rock bears his considerable influence. Both the breathtaking guitars of “Ingenue” and the elegiac beauty of “You’ve Haunted Me All Your Life” showcase dynamics nearly 20 years in the making.
the PAPER
Kelly Clarkson – Piece by Piece Following the triumphant Stronger, Kelly Clarkson offers some of her finest work to date. Filled with great hooks and a host of guest contributions, Piece by Piece finds the inaugural American Idol champion at her most intimate. While the anthem “Take You High” features glistening strings and a shape-shifting chorus, the plaintive John Legend duet “Run Run Run” is bolstered by haunting vocal interplay and a chilling coda. Elsewhere, on the album’s unforgettable title cut, Clarkson reflects on parenthood amidst martial drums and liquid guitars to devastating effect.
CORNER The Doll’s House –
received regular texts from her
Nora Webster is recently widowed.
A young woman wakes in a
over the years.
Unmoored by her sudden loss and
cold, dark cellar, with no idea
For DI Helen Grace it’s chilling
the needs of her children which she
how she got there or who
evidence that she’s chasing a
now must raise alone, she faces a
kidnapped her. So begins her
twisted monster who is clever
future that was never meant to be.
terrible nightmare.
and resourceful – a predator
But within Nora is a strength – a
who’s killed before.
quiet resolve not to succumb to
The body of another young woman is discovered buried on
44
Nora Webster – Colm Tóibín
MJ Arlidge
As Helen struggles to
others’ expectations and, through
a remote beach. But the dead
understand the killer’s
the discovery of music and the gift
girl was never reported missing
motivation, she realises she’s in a
of friendship, she may just find a
– her estranged family having
desperate race against time...
way to live again.
dvd’s
Love, Rosie Since the
moment they met at age 5, Rosie (Lily Collins) and Alex (Sam Claflin) have been best friends, facing the highs and lows of growing up side by side. A fleeting shared moment, one missed opportunity, and the decisions that follow send their lives in completely different directions. As each navigates the complexities of life, love, and everything in between, they always find their way back to each other – but is it just friendship, or something more?
CD’s, DVD’s and books
Maps to the Stars A darkly
comic tour into the heart of a Hollywood family chasing celebrity, one another and the relentless ghosts of their pasts. Meet the Weiss family, who are making their way in a sun-soaked Southern California rife with money, dreams, fame, envy, angst, yearning – and relentless hauntings. Stafford Weiss (John Cusack) is a famed TV self-help therapist, whose “Hour of Personal Power” has brought him an A-list celebrity clientele. Meanwhile, Cristina Weiss (Olivia Williams) has her work cut out managing the career of their disaffected child-star son, Benjie (Evan Bird), fresh out of rehab at age 13. Yet unbeknownst to any of them, another member of the Weiss family has arrived in town – mysteriously scarred and tormented Agatha (Mia Wasikowska), just released from a psych ward and ready to start again. Even in this realm of the artificial, the make-believe and the unearthly, Agatha’s determined to make it, no matter what it takes.
The Immigrant
This 1920’s-set drama stars Marion Cotillard as Ewa Cybulski, a Polish woman who, after immigrating to New York in the hope of a better life for her and her sister, falls prey to a mysterious man named Bruno (Joaquin Phoenix). In search of the American dream, Ewa and her sister, Magda, sail to Ellis Island, only to be separated when Magda falls ill. With nowhere to go, Ewa quickly falls prey to Bruno, a charming but wicked man who forces her to perform in his nightly burlesque show. There she encounters the dazzling magician Orlando, who sweeps her off her feet and becomes her only chance to reunite with her sister and escape the nightmare.
The Iron Necklace – Giles Waterfield
The wedding of Thomas, an idealistic German architect, and Irene, an English artist, brings together the Curtius and Benson families. But their peace is soon shattered by the outbreak of war in Europe. While Irene struggles to survive in a
aftermath relationships are tested, sacrifices are made and Irene and her
exploration of how to live better, love
siblings strive to find their place in an
better and feel more alive, Reasons to
evolving world.
Stay Alive is more than a memoir. It is a book about making the most of your
country where she is the enemy, her sister Sophia faces the war as a nurse
A moving, funny and joyous
Reasons to Stay Alive –
time on earth.
on the Western Front. For their
Matt Haig
brother Mark, diplomatic service sees
Aged 24, Matt Haig’s world caved in.
clichés remain the truest. Time heals.
him moving between London,
He could see no way to go on living.
The bottom of the valley never provides
Washington and Copenhagen, all
This is the true story of how he came
the clearest view. The tunnel does have
the while struggling to confront his
through crisis, triumphed over an illness
light at the end of it, even if we haven’t
own identity.
that almost destroyed him and learned
been able to see it... Words, just
to live again.
sometimes, really can set you free.’
Against a backdrop of war and its
‘I wrote this book because the oldest
DISCLAIMER All books featured here are distributed by Penguin Books SA. Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
45
Talent spotting
High and low notes
South Africa’s musical tradition is deeply rooted in all cultures – and music has the power not just to unite people but to be transported and make them weep at its beauty. Norman McFarlane looks at the state of the operatic nation.
J
uly Zuma. Pretty Yende. Given Nkosi. Khumbuzile Dlamini. Lynelle Kenned. Bongani Tembe. Elizabeth Frandsen. Do any of these names ring a bell for you?
How about Sibongile Khumalo, Gé Korsten, Mimi Coertse, Deon
van der Walt and Aviva Pelham? If any of these names strike a chord with you, chances are you are a lover of opera, and you’ll know that while the latter group includes names of some great talents who are no longer with us, the former group lists a small sample of the enormous reservoir of operatic talent that has emerged since the dawn of our democracy, some 21 years ago. Not only have they all made their mark singing locally, most of them have enthralled audiences all over the world, and continue to do so. Pretty Yende(pictured) is perhaps the best-known contemporary operatic talent, who has emerged from humble beginnings, to be fêted as one of the most significant opera singers of our time. Born in Piet Retief, Mpumalanga, Ms Yende was fortunate enough to study at the South African College of Music at the University of Cape Town, where she graduated cum laude, after which she studied at Academia Teatro alla Scala in Milan, Italy. Although her undeniable talent was already turning heads in South Africa, she shot to international prominence, when in 2009, she won all four sections in the Hans Gabor Belvedere International Singing Competition in Vienna, Austria, in twin categories: the audience prize, and opera and operetta. She’s won much more since but more importantly she has performed to standing ovations on most of the 46 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
opera he did in the early stages of his career.
great opera stages of the world. At the
fundraising vehicle to provide financial
age of 30, Ms Yende is considered one
assistance to emerging operatic talent
of the most significant operatic talents
from previously disadvantaged
funding is that so many of our local
on the international stage. And all this,
backgrounds. Ms Yende was one of the
greats now work almost permanently
because she heard a snippet of opera
early beneficiaries of the Trust, but once
overseas, including but not limited to
in a British Airways advertisement which
she was firmly established on the
Given Nkosi, July Zuma, Pretty Yende
inspired her to want to sing and to share
international operatic circuit, she
and Phumeza Mtshikiza to name a few.
her voice with the world.
immediately started to give back.
With Cape Town Opera being the
But making it in the opera world isn’t
As far back as 2008, Ms Yende was
The tragedy of the lack of local
only local full time troupe with regular
easy, as Ms Yende and many of her
instrumental in staging benefit concerts
local productions and international
contemporaries will attest. One of the
with her contemporaries, all of whom
tours, it is difficult for the wealth of local
biggest problems is funding, something which has plagued so many of our greatest emerging artistic talents. Although Government often speaks glowingly of the achievements of our burgeoning operatic talent, it seldom puts its money where its mouth is and precious little in the form of funding is forthcoming.
At 30, Ms Yende is considered one of the most significant operatic talents on the international stage.
talent to find gainful employment in our country. The result? Most of our stars sing overseas where they can earn well, returning to grace our stages periodically when shows are staged here periodically. And so as the voices of yesteryear – Mimi Coertse, Gé Korsten, Deon van der Walt – leave us for that great opera
Ms Yende was conferred the Silver Order of Ikhamanga on April 27 2013,
stage in the sky, today’s burgeoning
“for her excellent achievement and
talent brings a new energy, vitality and
international acclaim in the field of world
aptitude to a singing medium that is
opera and serving as a role model to
quintessentially Eurocentric.
aspiring young musicians.” In October
That Black South Africans have taken
last year, Arts and Culture Minster Nathi
so readily to this art form, regarded by so
Mthethwa lauded Bongani Tembe, not
many as elitist “Old Europe” comes as
only for his fine achievements as an
little surprise to Pretty Yende: “We are a
opera singer, but also for the prominent
singing nation. We are born with a beat.
role he has played in promoting classical
We cry, we sing. We laugh, we sing.
music and opera in his role as Chief
We’re sad, we sing. We lose, we sing. We
Executive and Artistic Director of the
gave their time and talent to raise
win, we sing,” Yende said. “So song has
KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra.
funds for the Trust. The generosity of
been part of us for a long, long time.”
None of this has led to government coughing up any money, so it falls to private sponsorships to sustain the network
spirit of this community of rising stars is quite remarkable. Tenor July Zuma, who benefited
And as the annual Amazwi Omzansi Africa (Voices of South Africa) talent search gets underway – all nine
of operatic stages and orchestras that
handsomely from a concert in December
provinces are visited every year, in
are essential to the staging and nurturing
2009 just before he departed to study in
search of new operatic talent – be
of our operatic talent.
Vienna, was back on stage in 2010 with
assured that out there somewhere is the
“Pretty Yende and Friends” – Pretty
next Pretty Yende or July Zuma, waiting
of Diemersfontein Wine Estate in
Yende, Albert Combrinck, Luthando
to be discovered, and the best thing
Wellington, established the
Qave, Given Nkosi, and Elizabeth
you can do if you love opera, is to go
Diemersfontein “Excellence Out of
Frandsen – to raise funds for the new
and listen to, watch and revel in our
Africa” Bursary Trust some years ago as a
talent that arguably struggles as much as
local talent, to help fund its future.
David and Susan Sonnenberg, owners
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
47
Book Giveaway
Cowboy in the kitchen
He might have the most recognisable cranium on the local cooking scene but chef Pete Goffe-Wood crams a lot into that space with its distinctive divot.
F
rank honesty – about learning to cook as a way to impress girls – is typically Pete Goffe-Wood’s style. He’s a no-nonsense kinda guy – but is just as quick to laugh and poke fun at himself or some of the
holy cows that exist in the restaurant game. His irreverence hides a very keen cooking brain and his skills have been honed by stints in top kitchens locally and abroad. Goffe-Wood is as comfortable teaching a bunch of blokes how to carve a roast leg of lamb as he is addressing a woman’s only fundraising lunch. The gift of the gab is just one of his many talents and he’s as comfortable behind the braai fire as he is finessing delicate desserts onto the plate for a gathering of hundreds. London’s Le Gavroche restaurant is credited with kick starting gastronomy in Britain after World War II and former chef patron Albert Roux is the ultimate gastronomic godfather having trained Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and a host of other international household names. When Roux visited South Africa a few years ago to cook for a wine launch, Pete
Warm Salad of Chicken Livers, Bacon & New Potatoes with Crisp Green Beans, Poached Egg & Vinaigrette Serves 4
Goffe-Wood was the man he wanted at his side helping him. Goffe-Wood was one of the most recognisable local celebrity chefs
INGREDIENTS:
even before the South African version of Masterchef introduced him to a
200g new potatoes
broader audience. A Life Digested is not just a collection of recipes, it’s
olive oil for frying
almost a diary of his adventures over the years, from those early amorous
100g streaky bacon
escapades to anecdotes about the restaurants where he has trained,
salt and pepper
worked and run, to comments about picky eaters and even the most
400g chicken livers
memorable meals he’s enjoyed around the world. Each chapter is driven
200g fine green beans
by stories he’s written, all of which revolve around what Goffe-Wood finds
20g rocket leaves
most important as a cook.
30ml red wine vinegar
It’s part cookbook and part memoir but is packed with funny tales told with typical Goffe-Wood candour and humour. Published by Quivertree and beautifully photographed by Craig Fraser, A Life Digested is not just a book to occupy space on a book shelf or to flip through when looking for a recipe, it’s a book to savour and digest, slowly, over a glass of wine or two. 50 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
90ml extra virgin olive oil 4 eggs 1Tbsp white wine vinegar 20g chives
Chef’s story
METHOD: Boil the potatoes until just done, then halve them. Heat a little oil in a large frying pan. When it’s hot, add diced bacon and cook until it begins to colour. Add the potatoes and when they begin to colour, season the livers and add them to the pan. Fry them for about 5 minutes until cooked – firm but still pink inside. Remove the pan from the heat. Blanch the beans in boiling water, then mix them with the rocket and arrange in the middle of four plates. Spoon the warm ingredients from the pan on top of the greens. Deglaze the pan with the red wine vinegar, add the extra virgin olive oil to the pan and then pour this warm dressing over the salad on each plate. Poach the eggs in simmering water with a touch of white wine vinegar. Remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and place on top of the salad. Garnish with finely chopped chives and serve immediately.
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
51
Book Giveaway
Roast Rack of Lamb with Baked Aubergine, Tomato & Basil Serves 6
INGREDIENTS:
aubergines
9 ripe plum
100ml extra virgin
tomatoes
olive oil
100g unsalted
20g basil leaves
butter
150ml cream
2 cloves garlic
100g Parmesan
salt and pepper
1.2 kg lamb rack
3 large
60g rocket
METHOD: Blanch the tomatoes for 10 seconds in furiously boiling water. Peel and roughly chop them, then sauté the tomatoes in
Available GO TO ‘IN THE BASKET’ at TOPS at ON FOR YOUR FULL SPARPG71 and SPAR stores GROCERY LIST
butter for approximately 5 minutes until they begin to break down and form a Call the saucy consistency. Remove from the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141
heat, add finely chopped garlic and season. Slice the aubergine into thin
about 15 minutes, until the cream starts to brown around the edges of the bowls. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Roast in a hot oven (200°C) until
rounds. Sauté them in a separate large
medium, approximately 15 minutes, depending on the size of the rack.
frying pan, using the olive oil for 5
Remove from the oven and leave the lamb to rest for
minutes or until cooked through and
5 minutes. Slice the lamb and divide onto six plates.
golden brown. Remove from the pan
Serve each portion with baked aubergine,
and drain on kitchen paper.
garnished with a little rocket.
Spoon the cooked tomato into six
The beauty of this dish is that the
ceramic ovenproof bowls. Arrange
aubergine tastes almost as meaty as
slices of aubergine on top. Tear up the
the lamb, and the tomato gives
basil, add it to the cream and pour this
just enough acidity to ensure the
over the aubergine.
dish is not overly fatty.
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan, then bake in a moderate oven (180°C) for 52 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Chef’s story
Dark Chocolate Mousse Serves 8
INGREDIENTS:
METHOD:
800g dark chocolate
Melt the chocolate over a double
6 eggs, separated
boiler. Cook the egg yolks, orange
250ml orange juice 200g sugar
juice, sugar and brandy over a separate double boiler, whisking
2 tots brandy
continuously until light and fluffy. Soak
3 leaves gelatine
the gelatine in cold water to soften it,
500ml cream
then add to the egg mixture while it’s still cooking so the gelatine dissolves completely. Add the chocolate to the egg mixture and allow to cool. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites, then the whipped cream. Spoon servings of mousse into bowls or glasses and allow 3 to 4 hours to set in the fridge.
enter now!
To qualify, send in a postcard or e-mail clearly marked Cheers Book Giveaway and containing your name, ID number, physical address (not a PO Box please!) along with a contact telephone number to qualify for the lucky draw. Entry deadline is Friday 14th August 2015. The address to send it to is cheers@cheersmag.co.za or Cheers, PO Box 259, Rondebosch 7701.
win
Stand a chance to receive one of two copies of a life digested book SEE T&C’S ON PG 2
Double your chance of winning! Go to www.facebook.com/ CheersMag and LIKE the Cheers Facebook page.
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
53
TOP Nosh Silwood kitchen
Global soups Soup seems simple, right? Not so! It varies from crystal clear consommé, to spicy Asian versions packed with noodles, hearty beef broths rich with barley and beans all the way through to purple borscht or chunky creamy chowders, packed with seafood and potatoes. Photography by Ashlee Attwood.
W
hile they can be served hot or cold, with cream, croutons, grated cheese or a sprinkling of chives, one thing soups do is nourish not just the body but the soul too, with comfort and caring. Traditions vary from country to country. In the Far East where soup is almost a daily part of
the meal they tend to be lighter, frequently with fish stock and vegetables forming the base. In
Thailand and elsewhere, a sour note in the form of lime, lemongrass and lemon is added. Eastern Europeans use beetroot, potatoes and noodles or dumplings to bulk up soup, providing energy in the form of carbohydrate for the long, cold winters. Two soups associated with the French are the traditional onion soup and vichyssoise, the leek, potato, onion and cream soup which is often served cold – as is gazpacho, that melange of tomatoes and peppers livened up with the lip-smacking tang of sherry vinegar. And what about the rib-sticking qualities of clam chowder, a staple of New England in America or the slightly smoky sweet appeal of a good Dutch pea and ham soup! With the temperature dropping and frost crisping the lawn every night, there’s nothing nicer than a steaming bowl of soup to add a little warmth!
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
55
TOP Nosh
INGREDIENTS: 1 onion, finely chopped 20ml oil 15ml medium curry powder 500ml frozen peas 750ml crisp lettuce, shredded
d n a Pea soup e c u t t le h a hint wit f chilli o
125ml cream
’ SKET E BA R FULL H T N U le ‘I abO R YO vailT S at 1 FO GAaO 7 t TOP aG d n PARPtores Y LIST OSPN s R S AROCE GR
Garnish: Pinch dried chilli flakes pea shoots or micro herbs
e Call thTLINE HO TOPS0 313 141 6 8 0
METHOD:
Sauté the onions in oil until soft, add the curry powder and sauté for a further 30 seconds. Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Add the peas and lettuce and simmer for 3 minutes before pouring in the cream and removing from the heat. Place the mixture in a blender and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. To serve: Place soup in warmed bowls, sprinkle a little dried chilli over and garnish with pea shoots or micro herbs.
56 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
Silwood kitchen INGREDIENTS: Thai chicken stock: 500g chicken bones 2 litres water 15ml fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 50ml fresh coriander ½ onion, sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves
Tom i a G Yam, light, hot.
ar up A cle r Thai so s 4 e sou Serv and
Soup: 200g chicken breast or thigh meat 1.2 litres Thai chicken stock 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced 2½cm piece lemon grass, white part, bruised 1-2 red chilli, deseeded and halved 2 lime leaves 15ml fish sauce 5ml sugar juice of one lime 100g white mushrooms, halved 1 medium tomato, deseeded and diced 1 spring onion, sliced at an angle
METHOD: Thai chicken stock: Place all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 2 hours then strain. Reduce to 1.2 litres. (This stock can be kept in the fridge for 2-3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.) Soup: Place the chicken, stock, garlic, lemon grass, chilli, lime leaves and fish sauce into a saucepan, bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Remove the chicken, shred with a fork and set aside. Add the mushrooms and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, tomatoes, spring onions and a little lime juice, simmer for 2-3 minutes. Add fish sauce to taste and finish with a little more lime juice. To serve: Garnish with coriander leaves and serve piping hot.
15ml coriander leave
TOP Nosh
Tusc
a
nB
e a n So up METHOD: Soup: Sweat onions in oil. When almost soft,
INGREDIENTS: 2 tins chopped Italian tomatoes 2 litres chicken or veg stock 1 tin cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 tin borlotti beans, drained and rinsed 180ml Savoy cabbage, finely sliced 2 onions, chopped 25ml oil 4 stalks celery, chopped 3 sprigs rosemary, chopped
add celery, carrots, garlic, rosemary, paprika and smoked paprika. Continue cooking until vegetables are soft but not coloured. Add the tinned tomatoes and stock and simmer for 20-30 minutes. Finally, add the drained beans and cabbage and simmer for another 8 minutes. Season to taste. To serve: Serve piping hot topped with a spoonful of basil pesto.
3 carrots, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 5ml smoked paprika 5ml paprika 50ml basil pesto
These delicious recipes were prepared and cooked by chef Hayley New, a second year student at Silwood Kitchen in Cape Town. www.silwood.co.za
Blogspot
Homely & hearty
Energy levels drop along with the russet leaves from the trees. But there’s a lot to be said for slowing down and conserving energy.
T
hings always seem to quieten
time together and good conversation.
down over winter as we go into
Even if it is largely about dinosaurs and
hibernation mode, and what a
fairy princesses!
perfect time to indulge in some slow
In this issue I’ve chosen some of my
cooking! As temperatures plummet and
favourite hearty winter dishes that I
cold fronts set in I can’t imagine a better
hope you’ll enjoy with your family and
place to be than in my kitchen cooking
friends. First up is a Moroccan inspired
up a storm. Dare I say it – I even look
slow-cooked beef stew served with
forward to the washing up to help warm
lightly spiced flatbreads to help scoop
me up!
up all that lovely gravy. (If you are lucky
When time allows, my family and I
enough to have a gas stove this recipe
love to spend a weekend afternoon –
is also load shedding friendly!) Apple
INGREDIENTS:
Saturday or Sunday – in the kitchen
crumble is an absolute classic and I
500g beef shin
1 tsp star anise
preparing dinner together. Particularly
hope you like my version with its crunchy
3 Tblsp flour
2 Tblsp white wine
when the rain is pouring down outside
oat crumble and easy homemade
2 tsp ground cumin
vinegar
and the little ones need to be
vanilla custard. If you do not have the
salt and pepper
500ml beef stock
entertained! We’ve spent many
luxury of spending a long time in the
1 Tblsp sunflower oil
Pinch of chilli flakes
afternoons kneading pizza dough,
kitchen, the apple filling and the custard
1 onion, finely
(optional)
rolling out sheets of pasta and shaping
can be made a few hours, or even the
chopped
1 Tblsp finely
meatballs. What a pleasure to have a
day before and stored in the fridge until
3 Tblsp finely
chopped parsley
break from the usual crazy rush, to just
needed.
chopped celery
small handful of
3 medium carrots,
fresh coriander,
peeled and cut
roughly chopped
enjoy the preparation process, quality
Keep warm and happy cooking!
Teresa Ulyate is the writer of Cupcakesandcouscous.blogspot.com and holds the bragging rights as the winner of Two Oceans’ Simple Snacking Challenge 2013. Cupcakesandcouscous.blogspot.com
60 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
into 1cm slices
winter warmers
Moroccan beef with spiced flatbreads serves 3-4
For the flatbreads (makes 6):
constantly. Add the white wine vinegar,
butter. Add most of the water and mix
2 cups plain flour
cover the pot and leave to cook over
to combine. Continue adding water
1/2 tsp ground cumin
a low heat for 5 minutes. Add the beef
until the dough starts coming together,
1/2 tsp fine salt
stock and chilli flakes to the pot and stir
then tip onto a work surface and knead
1 tsp baking powder
well. Replace the lid and cook over a
for 5 minutes until you have a soft
60g butter
gentle heat for 1 - 1.5 hours (stirring
dough. Place the dough back in the
210ml warm water
every 20 minutes or so) until the beef is
mixing bowl, cover with a tea towel and
very tender. Remove the star anise
allow to stand for 30 minutes. Divide the
METHOD:
pieces from the beef stew. Stir in the
dough into six equal pieces. Roll each
Cut the beef shin into 2-3cm cubes.
chopped parsley and coriander. Allow
piece into a ball. Dust your work surface
Combine the flour and cumin with a
to simmer for a further 5 minutes with
with a little flour, then roll each ball into
pinch of salt and a good grinding of
the lid off. Season the beef with salt
a circle about 2-3mm thick. Heat a dry
black pepper, then toss the beef in this
and pepper. Dish onto warmed
griddle pan over a medium to high
mixture and set aside. Heat the
plates, top with some parsley or
heat. Place the flatbread in the pan
sunflower oil in a large saucepan over
coriander leaves and serve with freshly
and cook for 1.5 minutes. Flip the
a medium heat. Add the onion, celery
made flatbreads.
flatbread over and cook the other side for a further 1.5 minutes or until it starts to
and carrots and fry for 2 minutes. Add the star anise pieces and cook for a
To make the flatbreads:
char and puff up. Repeat with the
further minute. Add the beef to the
Sift the flour, cumin, salt and baking
remaining flatbreads.
pan and brown for 3 minutes stirring
powder into a bowl and rub in the Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
61
Blogspot
Oaty apple & raisin crumble with vanilla custard
METHOD: Peel and core the apples, and cut into chunks. Melt the butter in a medium sized pot and add the apple. Toss to coat in the butter then cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the
serves 6
raisins, caramel sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and stir well. Cook for a further 10-12 minutes, stirring regularly, until the apple chunks are soft but still have some bite. Remove from the heat and set aside. Preheat your oven to 190°C and start preparing the crumble topping. Place the flour, caramel sugar, oats and butter together in a bowl. Use your fingertips to rub the ingredients together. The mixture will be dry at first, but continue to rub until the butter coats the dry ingredients and the mixture starts to clump together. Divide the cooked apple between six small ramekins. Do the same with the crumble mixture, sprinkling on top of the apple. Place the ramekins on a tray and bake for 25-30 minutes until the crumble is golden. To prepare the custard: whisk the egg yolks and castor sugar together until creamy. Whisk in the flour. Place the milk in a saucepan
INGREDIENTS:
Crumble:
over a medium heat and heat just until
1kg apples
90g flour
boiling point. Remove from the heat
100g butter
60g caramel sugar
and carefully add half of the milk to the
30g oats
egg mixture while whisking
75g butter, at room
continuously. Then add the egg-milk
temperature
mixture back into the saucepan with
60ml (1/4 cup) raisins 60ml (1/4 cup) caramel sugar 1 tsp cinnamon
the remaining milk and heat slowly
1/4 tsp nutmeg
GO TO ‘IN THE BASKET’ ON PG71 FOR YOUR FULL GROCERY LIST 62 www.topsatspar.co.za
Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141 Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Vanilla custard:
while whisking. Continue to cook until
2 egg yolks
the custard has thickened. Stir in the
40g castor sugar
vanilla paste then transfer to a warm
2 Tblsp flour
jug. Allow the cooked apple crumbles
300ml milk
to stand for a few minutes before
Available 1/2 tsp at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores
vanilla paste
serving with fresh vanilla custard.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY CMY
K
Tuisnywerheid
Winterlekkerny
LE CREUSET 31CM TAGINE/WWW.LECREUSET.CO.ZA
Sonja Herholdt was die land se beeldskone blondinetjie met die goue stem – veral toe sy oor waterblommetjies gesing het .
“W
aterblommetjies in die Boland, waterblommetjies in die Kaap…” Ja, blomme begin hier vroeg winter op die damme saampak. Ding is, waterblomme is soos wyn, en jy moet weet wanneer hy reg is.
Die wonderlike ding van ’n waterblombredie is dat dit, soos die koolbredie, erg
eenvoudig is. Geen eeue se voorbereiding van aftreksels en vreemdklinkende
Vir ’n normale mens, honger gemaak deur die vars
Bolandse lug, verg die resep
vir ses minstens een kilogram blomme. Vir diegene wat hul
blomme in ’n supermarket koop en nie self gaan pluk nie, beteken dit twee pakkies van 500gram elk. Sit die blomme in ’n groot kom water.
eksotiese speserye nie. Dis asof die eenvoud wat die waterblom vra ook ter wille
Inspekteer elkeen om seker te maak
van die aardse, inherente geure van die ander bestanddele is.
dat verskuilde paddavissies of koker-
Daar is klomp resepte vir waterblombredie wat min of meer dieselfde pad na
naaldneste nie tussen die blomme is
boerekos-nirvana volg. Die een probleem wat ek egter het, is die hoeveelheid
nie. Vreemde voorwerpe word
waterblomme wat sommige resepte-skrywers reken benodig word om ’n gawe
afgespoel. As die water na dese vuil is,
skepsel aan elke persoon te bied.
vervang met skoon vars water en gooi
Die ander is dat min resepte die waterblomtruuk uitlap. Maar voor daar by die truuk uitgekom word, begin regmaak vir ses porsies waterblombredie. 64 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
twee eetlepels sout hierby. Roer deur tot die sout opgelos is.
Emile Joubert Ná een uur kan die soutwater
daardie deksel op sy pot en plaas als in
afgegooi en die blomme met vars
’n oond van 180 tot 200°C. Los vir
water afgespoel word.
sowat anderhalfuur.
Neem jou swaarboompot, beblerts
BESTANDDELE
die bodem met kookolie en braai twee
1kg waterblommetjies (self gepluk)
opgekapte uie totdat hulle deurskynend is. Verwyder uit die pot.
of x2 500g pakkies waterblommetjies (by die supermark gekoop) 2Tbls sout
Nou’t mens 1,5kg lamsvleis nodig.
250ml kookolie
Die mag baie klink vir ses mense, maar
2 uie
gooi lam in ’n pot en die vleis krimp
1,5kg lamsvleis 1 bottel droë witwyn
vinniger as ’n minister se
sout en peper
kredietkaartlimiet by die Tokio
2 lourieblare
Motorskou. Ek gebruik ’n kombinasie van rib en
VIR DIE SURING
skywe lamsnek, met die rib in blokke so
2 suurlemoene
groot soos ’n vuurhoutjieboks gesny.
6 aartappels
Gaan nou terug na daardie
hande van die vleis in die pot. En dis
die soutwater van jou blomme af. Wanneer die gaar, bruin vleis uit die oond kom, word die aartappels bygevoeg en die pot terug in die oond geplaas. Die rede hiervoor is dat aartappels effe langer neem om sag te kook as wat jou blomme doen. Sowat 20 minute later word die pot weer uitgehaal, en nou word die nat groen blomme in hul volle glorie in die pot geplaas. Moenie die pot deurroer nie. Sit die deksel op en die hele storie terug in jou oond.
OM TE DIEN:
geoliede pot waarin die uie gebraai is. Draai die hitte op. Gooi twee bak
Sny ses aartappels in kwarte. Gooi
wit rys en beetslaai Droë Chenin Blanc of Pinotage
waar die truuk inkom.
Jou blomme gaan binne 30 tot 40 minute gaar gekook wees. Langer as dit, en hulle begin erg wegkook in genoemde groen papsel. Jou
Waterblombredie baat by die geur
meesterstuk is reg wanneer die blom
van vleis wat effe geskroei is. Waar ’n
nog sy fatsoen behou, maar maklik met
stuk geskroeide vleis ’n tamatiebredie
’n tafelmes middeldeur gesny word.
kan verniel, verleen die brandgeur ’n
Een baie belangrike stap bly oor en
lieflike dimensie aan die blomme.
dit is om te sorg dat die blomme
So, braai daardie vleis in die warm pot. Tot so ‘n bietjie verby die bruin
blootgestel word aan die geur van Die pot is nou koeler. Plaas die
daardie skaapvleis en sy vet sousie.
waaraan mens gewoond is. As jy die
gebraaide uie en vleis terug in die pot.
Gee die hele pot dus ’n roer of twee
reuk van aangebrande vleis begin ruik,
Voeg sout en peper by. Twee
sodat die blomme met skaap se kind
gee nog so 30 sekondes en haal dan
lourierblare. Twee glase droë witwyn.
kennis kan maak.
die vleis uit.
Bedien met witrys en beetslaai, soos
Suring
wat tradisie dit betaam. Met ’n droë
’n bietjie olie in voordat die res van die
Die tradisionele geursel wat nou bykom
Chenin Blanc of Pinotage.
vleis gebraai word. Hierdie tweede,
is suring, daardie klein geelblommetjies
derde braaisel kan maar gebraai word
wat aan lang stingels in die nat
totdat dit gewoon bruin is.
winterveld groei. As die stele
Die pot is swart gebrand, so gooi nog
Met die vleis klaar gebraai, haal dit
beskikbaar is, kap ’n klomp
uit die pot en gooi ’n skeut droë witwyn
suringstingels op – so ’n halwe koppie
in die yster, draai die plaat af en roer
vol – en voeg by jou bredie saam met
die boom van die pot om die
die sap van een suurlemoen.
aangebrande stukke vet en vleis los te maak. (Die Franse noem dit “déglacer”…)
As suring nie beskikbaar is nie, is die sap van twee suurlemoene doodreg.
Een hap en jy sing ook van die Boland – nes Sonja!
Writer and PR guy Emile Joubert was a finalist in the Men’s Health Braai King competition, uniquely qualifying him for this column.
Roer als deur die vleis en uie, sit Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
65
etiquette
Table talk
It is said that you can tell much about a person by their actions. With the food culture exploding worldwide, Fiona McDonald examines the social nuances which accompany eating.
I
t was nearly impossible: First an attack from behind was attempted. Then one from the right and yet a third with a reverse grip from the left. Still it resisted! Finally, that last morsel was chased up the side of the pudding bowl, the plate
tilted decorously at an opposing angle and the consequent back flip onto the spoon meant the last bite made the successful transition into my mouth. Phew! Never has the final speck of pudding put up so staunch a resistance… but
what made it worse was the lack of a dessert fork. Had that single item of cutlery graced the table, there never would have been a battle in the first place. And it’s not a problem I’m alone in experiencing at the modern table. A recent
episode of Masterchef Australia saw judges George Calombaris and Matt Preston sampling one of the contestant’s dishes – and having to surreptitiously use a finger of their left hand to provide a bit of counter pressure to get a piece of food onto the utensil. We all make judgements about people: instantaneous ones from the way they dress and present themselves – to how they speak or, more importantly, eat. Much of that is evolutionary: when still wearing skins and living in caves, we needed to assess in the blink of an eye whether a stranger was friend or foe and whether to extend a hand and grunt in welcome or pick up a stout club to dispatch them. The quote: “manners maketh man” is attributed to William of Wykeham (1324 - 1404) and serves as the motto of both New College, Oxford, and Winchester College. And while it is often taken to mean that social graces set people apart, a second, less obvious, connotation is that of character – the substance of a person rather than their proficiency with etiquette.
Different times My grandmother grew up in a different, very colonial, time – when people still dressed for dinner and manners were important. She’s responsible for me knowing what the fork nestled next to the dessert spoon is for – and for almost 66 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19
social conventions going into meltdown when it’s not there
And then there’s the soup plate tilt
and a less-than-perfectly poached pear
– towards or away? Well, in practical
can’t be wrestled into submission!
terms, tilting it toward you could result
Although people are seldom given to
in a bowl of piping hot soup ending up
Golden rules Here are some tips on the solid rules of thumb which still apply:
hosting “formal” dinner parties along
all over your shirt front or lap should
the lines of a Downton Abbey drama,
something untoward happen… so
hostess indicates to do so by taking
there’s still a lot to be said for providing
away from you it is! You could also cop
up their own cutlery.
the right equipment to do the job – or
out and not use a soup plate and opt
planning your menu so that no issues of
instead for a soup bowl, thus solving
etiquette arise. (Chocolate mousse, for
the dilemma totally.
example, doesn’t require a dessert fork – but a poached pear does.) Provision of cutlery aside, there are
Foreign relations
Don’t start until the host or
Don’t liberally season your plate with salt and pepper before tasting it. Rather ask for items to be passed to you – such as the salt and pepper cellars – than
Customs and table manners vary
stretching across someone else
still issues which arise at the table.
according to nationality – and the type
or the table.
When does one start eating: when the
of food. If eating in India or various
plate is placed in front of you – or do
Middle Eastern countries where food is
you wait for the host or hostess to pick
placed on the communal table and
up their knife and fork signalling the
one helps oneself, it’s always the right
Customs and table manners vary according to nationality – and the type of food.
hand which is used – NEVER the left. And in India, the food should never make contact with the palm of the hand – only ever the fingertips. Similarly in China and the Far East
or to lick your knife. Rather take a hunk or curl of butter from the butter dish and place it on your side plate to smear on your bread. Don’t butter directly from the dish! And on the issue of bread, break a roll with your hands rather than cutting it with a knife.
chopsticks to select a piece of food
for that purpose. Other chopstick “no-no’s” include playing with them, separating them and holding one in
Remember when daunted by an array of cutlery – eat from the outside in and if in doubt, hold back for a second or two and see what utensil your host or hostess is using and take your lead from them. To signal that you have
each hand or spearing food with them.
finished, place your knife and fork
Even standing them upright in a bowl of
(or fork and spoon) together with
thought – one which is rooted in
noodles or rice, for example, is unseemly
tradition that it’s only polite to wait for
since it evokes images of incense sticks
everyone to have their food and either
which are used at funerals!
the host or most senior person at table
either talk with a mouthful of food
considered rude to use your own
are usually spoons or utensils provided
Apparently there are two schools of
It’s socially unacceptable to
where chopsticks are used, it is
from a communal bowl or plate. There
green light for everyone to tuck in?
Tip your soup plate away from you.
And in France, for example, looking
to indicate that it’s OK to start eating.
around for a bread plate at the left of
Yet the new “modern” rule is that one
your place setting is futile. Bread is
should start immediately, while the
placed directly on the table cloth.
food is still fresh and hot. Not enjoying it
Similarly, you hang on to your knife and
at its best would be insulting to the host
fork between multiple courses – a little
who has slaved over a stove to present
rest is often provided for them as part
it for your enjoyment.
of the setting.
the tines or prongs of the fork facing upward at the six o’ clock position on the plate. Similarly, if you haven’t yet finished and are still enjoying the conversation or food, place them noticeably apart. These are all subtle signals which our caveman ancestors would be happy to see us both giving off and interpreting, making the reading of body language and assessment of personality so much easier.
Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za
67
what to look out for next issue Summertime… And the living means Sauvignon Blanc Olives: Oiled, stuffed and preserved Social media: what’s polite and what’s not brought to you by
www.topsatspar.co.za
Congratulations to last issue’s winner
y, Moodle y a ij V . o ert n Mrs al, Alb d s t e Alb
enjoy your spoils! 68 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Two Oceans wines
Purchase any 2 bottles of Two Oceans wines from your local TOPS at SPAR and stand a chance to win one of five nesting chairs to the value of R6 000 each
wi n
SH Go AR to Et w he ww C . yo hee face ur rs bo ch Fa ok an ceb .co Send an email to cheers@cheersmag.co.za with the ce m o of ok /Ch wi pa ee subject line “Cheers Two Oceans Giveaway” containing: nn ge rs Ma in • Your name, contact telephone number & ID number • Physical address & g! do g, (not a P.O. Box please!) • The TOPS at SPAR store at which you made your ub le purchase and the till slip number. SEE T&C’S ON PG 2
How to enter
Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.
Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141
Grocery list TOPS at SPAR
Available at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores
Your complete list of ingredients for all the recipes in this issue.
Groceries
Available from TOPS at SPAR Liquor 50ml Amarula Cream 25ml vodka 50ml brandy 1 bottle dry white wine
Available from SPAR Dried Spices/Herbs/Stock 15ml ground cumin 5ml star anise 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg 15ml medium curry powder 5ml smoked paprika 5ml paprika 2 bay leaves 500ml beef stock
2 red chillies
½ tsp fine salt
1 spring onion
5ml baking powder
180ml Savoy cabbage
120g caramel sugar
750ml crisp lettuce
30g oats
7 onions
40g castor sugar
1 bunch of celery
215g sugar
6 medium carrots
60ml (¼ cup) raisins
200g new potatoes
½ tsp vanilla paste
200g fine green beans
800g dark chocolate
10 ripe plum tomatoes
3 leaves gelatine
3 large aubergines 1kg waterblommetjies 6 potatoes 100g white mushrooms 1kg apples 2 lemons 1 lime
Cans/Jars/Bottles
Dairy 50ml chocolate mousse 235g butter 100g unsalted butter 12 eggs 300ml milk 775ml cream 100g Parmesan
1.2ℓ Thai chicken stock
285ml sunflower oil
2ℓ chicken or veg stock
45ml white wine vinegar
500g beef shin
30ml red wine vinegar
100g streaky bacon
190ml extra virgin olive oil
1.2 kg lamb rack
15ml fish sauce
1,5kg stewing lamb meat
2 tins chopped Italian tomatoes
500g chicken bones
1 tin cannellini beans
200g chicken breast or thigh meat
1 tin chickpeas
400g chicken livers
Fresh Fruit/Veg/Herbs/Spices 15ml parsley 1 bunch of coriander 20g chives 6 cloves garlic 20g basil leaves 80g rocket 3 sprigs rosemary 15ml fresh ginger 5 lime leaves 2½cm piece lemon grass
1 tin borlotti beans 50ml basil pesto 250ml orange juice
Meat/Fish/Poultry
Frozen goods 500ml frozen peas
Baking/Dry goods 670ml plain flour
All ‘in the basket’ items are available at your nearest TOPS at SPAR and SPAR outlets. See www.topsatspar.co.za and www.spar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
www.topsatspar.co.za 71
Loopdop Gerrit Rautenbach
Die groot gat van Kimberley Daar het baie juwele uit Kimberley gekom, maar die storie van oom Balie skitter steeds.
H
Op ’n dag is Janneman saam met sy ma in die handelshuis. Sy het klaar gekoop,
uitgehaal, Gert het betaal en met ’n
maar gesels nog so oor die een en die
“dankie oom” uitgewarrel.
ander met oom Balie. Sy sien byvoorbeeld
al steunend die leer bestyg en die bottel
nie meer op die deurgevatte toonbank
gebêre. Skaars onder op die grond en lid
staan nie en vra uit. Oom Balie verduidelik
nommer twee, Stefan skarrel in.
dat hy dit maar op die boonste rak gesit het en vervang het met die bottel ronde appelkooslekkers wat deesdae so gewild is. G’n mens vra meer vir zoute drop nie. Dis net daar waar Janneman ’n plan kry.
maar hier in die vroeë 1950’s het hy afgetree en ’n handelshuis in Carringtonstraat gekoop. Kyk, oom Balie was ’n mens-mens en in sy element agter die toonbank van die handelshuis. Hy het als van die dorpmense en hulle dinge geweet. Maar hy het mooi gewerk met sy inligting. Daarom het almal mooi gewerk met hom. Hulle het geweet
Oom Balie kyk op na die bottel, maar steunend klim hy. Hier na die vierde lid in en uit is met sy een pennie se drop, het
pelle saamgeroep. Koppe bymekaar
onder te hou. Dis daar waar Janneman
verduidelik hy die plan en daar gaat hulle
ingestap kom.
op ’n stofstreep handelshuis se rigting. Hulle
ry 44-gelling dromme by die garage.
het vir jare geldsake bedryf vir De Beers,
oom Balie.”
oom Balie besluit om maar eers die bottel
nie. Die ene wat die Ingilsman
Nee die storie gaan oor Oom Balie. Hy
“Een pennie se zoute drop, asseblief
Hy en sy ma is huis toe en hy’t sy bende
vat skuiling skuins oorkant die pad agter die
wat nou omgeval het daar in die
Oom Balie het die bottel toegemaak en
dat die groot glasbottel met zoute drop
ierdie storie gaan nie oor dáái gat
Kaap laat grou het.
blad weer af. Hy het vier stukke drop
Janneman het gereken hy moenie
“A, Janneman, ek reken jy wil seker ook ’n pennie se drop hê?” “Nee oom Balie.” Dankbaar pak oom Balie die leer aan,
eerste gaan nie, want hy was nou net
bêre vir oulaas die bottel en trap
daar. Dus slentervoet Gert eerste oor die
versigtig af.
G’n mens vra meer vir zoute drop nie. pad en by die oop dubbeldeure in. “More Gert, kan ek help?” vra oom Balie vriendelik.
“Nou wat kan ek vir jou kry, Janneman?” vra hy terwyl hy die sweet afvee. “Twee pennies se drop, asseblief oom!” Elke keer wat oom Bale dié storie klaar vertel het, het hy opgekyk en gelag: “So nou weet julle wie is die groot gat van Kimberley ...”
“Een pennie se zoute drop, asseblief oom Balie.” Vriendelike oom Balie het
dat as jy aan oom Balie se verkeerde kant
niksvermoedend geglimlag en die ou
kom, kan hy ’n paar dinge wat liefs in die
lendelam leer bestyg. Nou kyk, oom Balie
kas moes bly, uitgooi in die openbaar.
kon ’n leer goed vastrap. Verstaan mooi,
Maar dit was so met die grootmense; die
hy was nou nie byvoorbeeld oom Riet nie.
kinders het hulle nie daaraan gesteur nie.
Al krakend is hy op en bottel onder die
Monument TOPS at SPAR
Address: Cnr Memorial & McDougal Road, Kimberley Tel: (053) 831 5523, Fax: (053) 832 3104 Email: trevennacity@intekom.co.za Business Hours: TOPS at SPAR Mon - Fri: 08h00 - 20h00, Sat: 08h00 - 17h00 & Sun: Closed.
72 www.topsatspar.co.za
Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19
Freelance writer Gerrit Rautenbach is a man who knows how to spin a yarn, having been the editor of Mooiloop and Wegbreek magazines.