Cheers - July/Aug 2015 (Vol. 19)

ry a t en m i l p m o c

Jul|Aug 2015|19 brought to you by

T

t www.topsatspar.co.za

ELGIN

Apples & pears, grapes & wine: Elgin’s diverse offering

Talking whisky

Around the globe with Kirstie McCallum The A-B-C of

BEER Ale & hearty

How active are your holidays?

Hiking, skiing, paddling, cycling:

win

Masterchef Pete Goffe-Wood’s new book

Blended red wines

A nesting chair worth R6 000 from Two Oceans wines

Tasting: Olive Brook Quintette 2011, Rust en Vrede Estate 2011, Cederberg Shiraz/

Merlot 2010, The Chocolate Bock 2013, Beyerskloof Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012, Wolftrap Red 2013, Orange River Cellars Lyra 2011 & Edgbaston The Pepper Pot 2012.

O&M CAPE TOWN 77463/E

THE CARLING BLACK LABEL CUP IS BACK

BE THE CHAMPION COACH OR VOTE ONLINE AT:

WWW.CARLINGBLACKLABEL.CO.ZA

Terms and conditions apply.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.

contents

4 EDITOR’S LETTER On being a polite guest

6 NEWS

TOPS at SPAR Bierfest, Belvedere and Ketel One vodkas, a new Grant’s whisky release, Windhoek Lager’s big winner and more

6

14 TINUS TALKS

Rueful overindulgence analysed?

16 ARTFUL MIXING

Crafting blended red wines

24 APPLE & WINE VALLEY The birth of Elgin’s wine identity

22

16 30 A DICTIONARY OF BEER From Ale to ZZZZ

34 WOMAN OF WHISKY Bunnahabhain’s Dr Kirstie McCallum

38 ACTIVE TRAVEL Vacations with woema

38

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

www.topsatspar.co.za 1

contents cont...

46 55

Publisher | Shayne Dowling shayne@integratedmedia.co.za Editor | Fiona Mc Donald fiona@integratedmedia.co.za Art Director | Megan Merifield megan@integratedmedia.co.za Advertising | Jess Nosworthy jess@integratedmedia.co.za PR & Promotions | Ashlee Attwood ash@integratedmedia.co.za Photography | Ashlee Attwood and Thinkstock.com Contributors | Tinus van Niekerk , Teresa Ulyate Emile Joubert, Gerrit Rautenbach, Norman McFarlane, Samarie Smith and Hayley New. Head Office | Cape Town Tel: 021 685 0285 Suite WB03 Tannery Park 23 Belmont Road, Rondebosch, 7700 Postal Address: PO Box 259, Rondebosch, 7701

42

Printing | Paarl Media Cape Published by | Integrated Media for TOPS at SPAR

42 THINGAMAJIGS Keeping it clean...

TOPS at SPAR | Jess Nicholson, Group Promotions & Advertising Manager - Liquor

44 BOOKS, DVDS & CDS The stuff of dreams

46 HITTING THE HIGH NOTES

stockists:

South Africa’s operatic talent

SPAR Good Living items are available at your nearest TOPS at SPAR and SPAR outlets. www.topsatspar.co.za and www.spar.co.za

50 BOOK GIVEAWAY Reminiscing and recipes by Masterchef SA’s Pete Goffe-Wood

55 TOPS NOSH

Mr Price Home www.mrphome.com & Poetry www.poetrystores.co.za

win

COMPETITION TERMS & CONDITIONS

one of two copies of a life digested

pg50

Soup: steaming sustenance

of Integrated Media will be final and no circumstances shall Integrated Media, TOPS at SPAR, SPAR or its appointed representatives and the prize donors be liable to anyone who enters these Prize

Moroccan spice delight

Draws for an indirect or consequential loss howsoever arising which may be suffered in relation to the Prize

64 EMILE JOUBERT

Draws. By entering these competitions you make

68 NEXT ISSUE What to look out for in Issue 20

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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

yourself subject to receiving promotional information.

win

Waterblommetjies in die Boland

Dining in style

no alternatives or cash will be provided. The decision correspondence will be entered into. Under no

60 BLOGSPOT

66 SOCIAL ETIQUETTE

Competition submissions should reach us no later than 14th August 2015. The Prize/s is as indicated,

69 Win one of five

nesting chairs from Two Oceans wines to the value of R6000 each 72 LOOPDOP

’n Lekker storie oor drop

Entrants are deemed to have accepted these terms and conditions. Prize Draw Rules: The prize draw is only open to consumers who must be over 18 years of age and resident in South Africa. Employees of Integrated Media and TOPS at SPAR, SPAR and their respective advertising, media and PR agencies, as well as the family members, consultants, directors, associates and trading partners of such organisations and persons are ineligible for the draw. Participants can only win one competition every 3 issues.

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18. Drink Responsibly.

Editorial Fiona McDonald

Blended reds How much is enough? There was a delicate balance to be struck between modestly enjoying someone’s generosity and being a complete oinker and hogging the whole bottle…

Kanonkop Paul Sauer. Kanonkop is one

night in Stellenbosch. It was a

of the country’s most consistently good

friend’s birthday dinner and her

producers, renowned for their Pinotage

husband had placed a few fantastic

(they were one of the first ever farms to

bottles of wine, both white and red, on

commercially bottle one), Cabernet

the table.

Sauvignon and their blended red, the

As often happens at events such as these, people’s tastes become obvious. One guest loved the predinner bubbly so that’s all she drank for the rest of the evening. Someone else had moved onto a Chardonnay after the bubbles and was happy to lower the level in that bottle because he was enjoying it. However… myself and two

I could almost hear chubby angels plucking harp strings on puffy clouds…

n pa

ge 20

That was the contribution of the time spent in oak barrel which had imparted firm tannins to the wine. And the length of flavour… It just lingered on and on.

It was superb! I restricted myself to two modest glasses – but I know that if the others hadn’t been enjoying it equally, I would happily have polished

Although the other single varietal

It was one of those drinking

do

Tasting - the red blends

Paul Sauer.

others tucked into a beautifully aged red blend.

ea

R

I

t all started on a wet and wintry

reds have won their fair share of

off the whole bottle.

I spent the next few days flashing

experiences that make you realise

awards, the Paul Sauer is a blend of

back to that memorable wine. I kept

there really is a good reason for ageing

mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with

thinking about how complex and yet

certain wines in order to enjoy them at

around 30% of Cabernet Franc and

simple that wine had been. Complex in

their peak. This wine was most certainly

Merlot – and it has trounced some of

that it had been like an onion, with

at the pinnacle of its evolution – and

the world’s finest Bordeaux-style

layers of different things to discover

what a triumph it was. I could almost

blends in international competitions

which engaged me intellectually – but

hear chubby angels plucking harp

many times.

there was also the simplicity of it: it was

strings on puffy clouds… it was that heavenly! The wine was a 2004

Fiona McDonald is a trained journalist who has spent the last 20 years writing about wine – and more recently, about whisky too.

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Ju|Aug 2015 Vol 19

But I wasn’t drinking medals, I was revelling in a wine that glided over my

delicious. I liked it. Simple as that.

Ultimately, that’s what wine should

taste buds like slippery silk or satin! It

be. Yes, we can wax lyrical and throw

was so textured, elegant, refined,

all sorts of words around about

layered with supple, ripe, soft fruit –

structure, complexity, fruit and

black cherries, blackcurrant and plums

winemaking but the proof of the

– and then there was a hint of cocoa

pudding is in whether people find it

and spice too. It wasn’t flabby or overly

tasty and want to enjoy a second – or

soft: there was a firm backbone holding

third! – glass.

it all together and keeping it structured.

Cheers, Fiona

TRY ME

LIGHT UP THE MOMENT NEW SMIRNOFF速 STORM PINE TWIST

Not for sale to persons under the age of 18. Drink responsibly.

News

news news news news Brews and Oompah bands October is traditionally the month awash with celebrations of German beer, eisbein and sauerkraut.

The South African celebrations – which TOPS at SPAR plays a significant role in hosting – are held at venues throughout the country, from Durban to Cape Town and Johannesburg.

For logistical reasons, the party starts early on the East Coast with Durban’s Suncoast casino kicking off the annual Bierfest on the weekend of the 4th and 5th of September.

Johannesburg then follows with the popularity and crowd support seeing it staged at Montecasino over two weekends: 9 – 11 October and 16 and 17 October.

Cape Town’s Newlands brewery precinct is the venue for the final event on the 6th, 7th and 8th of November.

Once again, expect to find frauleins serving generous steins of specially brewed festival beers to the accompaniment of typically Bavarian oompah bands. There will be men dressed in lederhosen and funny hats enjoying the occasion too.

Cash is not king, crowns or tokens are exchanged for beers and booking of tables of six or more is advised. And an insider’s tip is to pre-order platters of tasty food served to your party’s table in order to save the hassle and stress of letting your beer warm up while you queue for chicken or eisbein.

There are a host of different packages and ticket options available. Check out the website, www.bierfest.co.za for more details.

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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

what’s happening

news news news news Dark delights

Lourensford wine estate in Somerset West is well renowned for its wines, restaurants, cheesery, coffee bean roastery and the magnificence of its polo grounds which also doubles as a wedding and function venue at the foot of the Hottentots Holland mountains.

On the 25th and 26th of July, however, the focus will be on chocolate at the country’s first ever gourmet Chocolate Festival.

The aim of the festival is not to simply revel in the delicious flavour and taste of the processed cocoa bean in all forms and shapes, liquid and solid, but to promote skill, creativity and craft – and also to reveal new talents and help budding entrepreneurs. The idea is also to help raise awareness of the chocolate industry in the country and to ensure that high standards of craftsmanship – and also ethical sourcing – are maintained.

Expect top pastry chefs, specialist master chocolatiers and fondant artists to offer master classes and displays alongside the many market stalls. For more details of the specific lectures and demonstrations for which booking is advised, visit www.winelandschocolatefestival.co.za

Day of wine and fu n Journey’s End winery at

Sir Lowry’s Pass is the venue of a unique – and somewhat quirky – fun day on September 13.

Members of the Premium Independent

Wineries of South Africa – 13 of the country’s top independent, boutique wineries – will present their wines for tasting and sale… from the boot of a variety of vintage and retro sports cars!

For those who prefer activity, there will be a Wine Olympics – featuring wine spitting, barrel rolling as well as grape & spoon and three ‘legless’ races.

Furthermore, there will be live music as well as food trucks, market stalls and a host of activities for children.

Tickets are R150 per head, available from Quicket at https://www.quicket.co.za/events/9699-piwosa-wine-car-boot/.

Image

makeover With two years to go to celebrating its 21st birthday, Savanna cider was deemed in need of an image revamp. And while the emperor might be wearing new clothes, nothing else has changed: it’s still the same deliciously dry apple cider on the inside.

In the fast-paced, social media savvy world we currently occupy, the only constant Is change so the proverbial mould was broken to make a completely new glass bottle. Like the contents, the Savanna bottle stands bold, confident and easy on the eye –yet remains refreshingly simple.

From its new crown design, to its longer, slimmer neckline and stronger, more manly shoulders, the Savanna bottle is on trend for a distinctive drinking experience.

And true to its contemporary social media hipness, all of the changes were appropriately documented on various channels:

savannacider @SavannaCider SavannaCider savannacider

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

7

News

news news news news Taking it in stride

Mika Häkkinen was Grand Prix racing’s original Flying Finn, twice being crowned Formula One world champion in 1998 and 1999. He was a teammate of the legendary Ayrton Senna as well as Nigel Mansell and David Coulthard and was rated by Ron Dennis as the only driver to outperform Michael Schumacher in his prime.

Recently Häkkinen accepted a Johnnie Walker Gentleman’s Wager: he would hand over the keys of a rare and classic 1958 Mercedes Benz 300SL Roadster – but only if South African rally driver and TV presenter Gugu Zulu was able to train a total novice to set a Kyalami lap time of within five seconds of Häkkinen’s.

That’s no mean challenge… for Zulu and his novice driver, businessman Vusi Thembekwayo.

Ultimately he came close, very close – but missed it by a narrow margin, clocking up a lap time of 2:05.9 to Häkkinen’s 2:00.4.

But in the true Gentleman’s Spirit, Häkkinen graciously handed over the keys anyway! “I am really impressed,” the cool former world champion said, “Gugu did an incredible job of training Thembekwayo to really push himself – in the true Johnnie Walker spirit of always striving for progress – to achieve a result beyond all expectations.”

Thembekwayo, already an achiever as the youngest ever JSE director and noted international motivational speaker, said he thoroughly enjoyed

achievement and the attainment of true

the challenge. “I’ve done some

rarity and success through hard work and

amazing things in my life and learning

commitment. We are very proud to have

to race ranks right up there with the

facilitated this wager.”

best of them. It was an honour to take part in this wager and to work with Gugu Zulu and Mika Häkkinen.”

Johnnie Walker South Africa’s Whisky Portfolio Manager, Zumi Njongwe, agreed: “The #walkerwager campaign ultimately celebrates personal progression, 8 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Scan the QR Code to check out the footage of the training and final timed sessions on www.youtube.com it makes for really compelling, and entertaining, viewing!

what’s happening

news news news news Four years ago the United Nations declared July 30 International Friendship Day. It’s believed that the tradition dates back as far as 1919, with Americans in particular sending cards or exchanging friendship bracelets.

Celebrating friendship

A bit of basic internet trawling reveals that one of the prime movers behind this celebration was Joyce Hall, one of the founders of Hallmark cards. The idea is to simply celebrate friends and the roles they play in our lives.

South Africa’s favourite cream liqueur, Amarula, has a favourite recipe for sharing a good time with friends, chocolate mousse and a dash of vodka – the African dusk martini.

INGREDIENTS: (per serving)

2 shots (50ml) Amarula Cream 1 shot (25ml) vodka 1 cup (250ml) chocolate mousse Shaved or grated white and/or dark chocolate (for garnishing) Raspberries (optional, for garnishing) Glass: Chilled martini (no ice) Garnish: Shaved or grated white and/ or dark chocolate, and raspberries (optional) METHOD: Combine the Amarula Cream, vodka and chocolate mousse in a cocktail shaker or container with a lid to seal.

Shake well and strain into the chilled martini glass. Don’t add ice. Garnish with shaved or grated white and/or dark chocolate, and raspberries (optional).

Visit www.amarula.com for fabulous recipes, gifting inspirations and interesting facts about Amarula.

World Class Mother City

Cape Town was one of the World Design Capitals in 2014 – and it is continuing to ride the success of that event after being selected as the official host city of World Class global finals, the first time this prestigious mixology competition has been held anywhere in Africa.

“We welcome the Global Finals as another addition to our events calendar as part of

our efforts to secure Cape Town as the events capital of Africa,” said Cape Town mayor Patricia de Lille. “The global finals have been hosted by many major cities in the world and Cape Town is proud to be ranked among the best. We look forward to hosting the many dynamic talents that will take part in the event.”

First held in 2009 the Diageo Reserve World Class competition rapidly came to be recognised as the world’s leading mixology competition. At its core is the aim of elevating the craft of bartending and in just six short years it’s been credited with setting not just international standards but cocktail trends globally.

“World Class is all about anticipating trends, being at the forefront of fine drinking culture and always looking for new and exciting innovations in our industry,” commented Matteo Fantacchiotti, global vice president commercial of Diageo Reserve. “These are the key criteria we look at when we select the location of the global finals. Africa ticks all these boxes and more; it is a booming and ever-changing continent and we see it as a new frontier with huge potential.”

South Africa’s three regional ambassadors who will be competing are Alex Farnell of Gauteng, Haroon Haffajee of KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape’s Bradley Jacobs.

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

9

News

news news news news Cheesy jazz

If you’re in the winelands of the Western Cape between June and August and find yourself at a loose end, you should consider visiting Delheim estate outside Stellenbosch.

One of the three original members of the Stellenbosch Wine Route, the family-run winery hosts cheese fondues and jazz indulgences every Sunday lunch from 28 June to 30 August. The events feel even more cosy because they are hosted in the original underground weinstube with its barrel-vaulted ceilings.

Groups get to huddle over pots of melted cheese, occasionally stirring and frequently dipping freshly baked baguette chunks or vegetable crudités into the fondue made to an authentic Swiss recipe which combines Emmental and Gruyere cheeses with white wine.

The cost is R200 a head and includes a welcoming glass of glühwein on arrival at 12h30. For more details or to book a spot, contact Delheim at (021) 888 4607/079 7353 257 or send an email to restaurant@delheim.com

Keeping cool

With the Rugby World Cup on our doorstep, one fun, vibrant and driven Johannesburg based company have the perfect product to back the Bokke come rugby time.

Frosty Neoprene Coolers are thermal

insulators, which not only look fantastic, they serve a very functional purpose.

Neoprene maintains flexibility over a wide temperature range. Which means when you put your ice cold beverage into a Frosty Cooler, it’s going to stay cold. And in these winter months your hands will stay warm!

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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Frosty is an official license holder for SA Rugby and come September, our boys will be in England - so show your spirit and gear your brew of choice in green and gold. Your brew deserves that jersey too!

As well as SA Rugby, Frosty also holds licenses for the Lions, Stormers, Sharks, Bulls and Cheetahs. Soccer licenses include Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates. Check out their online shop at www.frosty.co.za for more details and for prices of the various products.

what’s happening

news news news news Fraternity and family

South African bar tenders, cocktail lovers and the media were treated to a master class in distilling expertise earlier this year when Bob Nolet, the 11th generation of the Nolet distilling family visited the country to introduce Ketel One vodka.

That’s a family tradition of vodka distilling stretching back 300 years!

Having travelled from Holland to South Africa, Nolet said he was delighted to combine work with a master class which was essentially a pleasure.

“I am proud to present Ketel One to South Africa, sharing its heritage and distinctive flavour with bartenders, media and cocktail lovers. I am passionate about engaging with anyone interested in the world of fine spirit and who wants to learn more about this superb vodka, which has been crafted by my family since 1983,” said Bob Nolet.

Global brand ambassador Justin Smyth said Ketel One vodka was like no other.

“It’s an exceptional modern vodka, which stems from three centuries of tradition and craftsmanship.

“The Nolet Distillery in Shciedam, Holland, still stands and operates as it has done since it opened in 1691,” Smyth said, predicting that Ketel One would soon become a staple in bars, hotels, restaurants and cocktail cabinets throughout the country.

Truly select

Grant’s is one of the most recognised family names in Scottish whisky distilling, with a proud history and tradition stretching back generations. But in spite of their history, they are constantly innovating.

Their latest release is something new on the South African market, the Grant’s Select Reserve which hit the shelves in May. The whisky is a blend of hand-picked whiskies which deliver a notably sweet yet rich and peaty flavour in a delicious, multi-layered mouthful.

Vanilla charms and warms the taste buds with light hints of fresh fruit and some subtle spicy notes too. Throughout there’s a light peat smoke keeping the nose and mouth engaged, all the way through to its long, lingering smoky farewell.

“This is an exciting period for us,” said Grant’s SA marketing manager Lauren Kuhlmey. “We believe that Grant’s Select Reserve is a premium, yet accessible offering in the blended whisky category. We hope that this new variant sets a

News

ac are eys to Ru al k e th r e ov on Handing Butelezi and nati arz. w i b ch S m e is Th hr anager C m t n u o cc a

news news news news Double cab happiness

ensdregt

Ruac Wo

Ruac Woensdregt is a very happy camper: the 20-year-old Kimberley resident entered the Windhoek/TOPS at SPAR competition while on holiday in Hermanus earlier this year – and for his trouble recently took possession of a set of keys to a brand-new Toyota Hilux double cab!

“It’s a dream come true,” the young man said. “I can’t believe I won!”

He entered on a whim while enjoying the sunshine in the Western Cape’s whale watching hot spot. “I was having a great holiday in Hermanus when I saw the competition and decided to enter.”

Oak-aged beer

Beer is viewed as a simple beverage, not something that people are used to sniffing and sipping like they would whisky or wine. But Scottish brewers Innis & Gunn are looking to change that perception. A three-strong range of oak-aged handcrafted brews are now available in South Africa and have been very well received.

The original Innis & Gunn original is slow brewed in small batches before ageing fora 77 days in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon maturation. The resulting brew is deliciously creamy, packed with caramel and honeyed notes which make it ideal for matching with food. The two new expressions are a toasted India Pale Ale which harks back to the original 1880’s style of beer and a rum-finish which spends 57 days in American oak barrels and boasts a fruity spice note typical of rum.

The proud owner of a R340 000 Toyota Hilux was effusive in his thanks to both TOPS at SPAR in Hermanus as well as Windhoek beer.

“We are really happy for Ruac. From all of us at Windhoek Beer, we hope he thoroughly enjoys his prize,” said Windhoek brand manager Thembi Butelezi.

Butelezi said Windhoek were really pleased at how the beer buying public responded to the competition. “There was great interest country-wide, both because of the prize and an extremely easy entry mechanic.”

All customers had to do was buy a case of Windhoek Draught at any of the 600-plus TOPS at SPAR stores nationwide before SMSing the case barcode to 32329 for automatic entry into the draw.

Butelezi said the two month duration of the competition allowed a lot of scope for participation with the winner finally chosen at random by means of a lucky draw which was monitored by independent auditor, Deloitte.

“The next time I visit family in Hermanus it’ll be in my amazing Toyota Hilux bakkie,”

a delighted Woensdregt quipped at the handover.

Bolder yet smoother

The brand promise of a new version of Belvedere vodka is that it is more bold, more intense and yet more smooth and distinguished.

Vodka is frequently considered one of the most neutral of the broad array of distilled spirits since it lacks the overt botanicals of gin or the nuances imparted to whisky by maturation in Bourbon or Sherry oak casks.

Specially chosen baker’s top grade grain, cultivated on a number of select Polish farms is the secret behind the new Belvedere vodka.

Media material states that the special characteristics of Dankowskie rye – a creamy rye – are elevated and intensified, particularly after being distilled four times.

Belvedere is also bottled unfiltered in order that the consumer experience the true character and taste.

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Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

NEW HUNTER’S EXTREME BOLD WITH GUARANA

BOLD TASTE Hunter’s Extreme BOLD with a kick of Guarana is a NEW variant in the Hunter’s Extreme portfolio.

HOW IS IT DIFFERENT TO THE ORIGINAL HUNTER’S EXTREME? Offering the same explosion of refreshing apple combined with the natural energy taste and kick of Guarana, and as the name states, it’s even bolder.

NEW Taste Characteristics: • Bold Guarana Taste • Intense Flavour • Refreshing Apple • Tropical Notes • Alcohol Content: 5% • Colour: Gold

bigger. bolder. better #GOBOLD WITH HUNTER’S EXTREME BOLD ON W W W. H U N T E R S E X T R E M E . C O . ZA

Tinus Talks

One too many…

Drinker’s remorse is invariably felt a day late and a few dollars short! Is there any language other than Afrikaans which comes close to being able to onomatopoeically express that one is babelaas?

A

than alcohol, you consumed – as well as the kind of beverage you drank. A main culprit in inducing hangovers is the presence of congeners in the beverage. These are substances primarily produced during

1960 article on alcohol for The

The most common affliction is of

fermentation, or added to enhance

New Yorker, quoted an

course the hangover, the terrible state

flavours. In this respect the general rule

eminent 15th-century German

which results when too much alcohol

is that darker drinks like whisky and red

physician, Hieronymus Brunschwig, on

has been consumed. The symptoms

wine contain higher levels of

the following physical maladies, all

manifest in physical, emotional and

congeners, as opposed to light-

curable by brandy: “head sores, pallor,

cognitive symptoms. It is a known fact

coloured alcoholic beverages such as

baldness, deafness, lethargy,

that people suffering from hangovers

white wine, gin, and vodka.

toothache, mouth cankers, bad breath,

show delayed reaction time, tend to

swollen breasts, short-windedness,

have a shorter attention span, iffy

habits and gender also play a role in

indigestion, flatulence, jaundice,

concentration, and lack visual-spatial

hangover suffering. Somewhat unfairly,

dropsy, gout, bladder infections, kidney

perception for the duration of the

habitually heavy drinkers seem to

stones, fever, dog bites, and infestation

hangover. Somewhat ironic that drink

experience “softer” or milder

with lice or fleas.”

driving laws are so strict yet none exist

hangovers, whilst women will get drunk

to cater for driving with a hangover.

faster than men, partly because of their

Alas, Hieronymus makes no mention of the downside from the intake and

The emotional after-effects are

In addition the drinker’s own social

physiological makeup and lower

affect of alcohol which easily

referred to by Kingsley Amis as

volume of water in their bodies as well

personifies the devil itself when

“metaphysical” in kind:“When that

as decreased levels of the enzyme

alcoholic beverages are consumed

ineffable compound of depression,

alcohol dehydrogenase, which breaks

without discretion, at times resulting in

sadness (these two are not the same),

down alcohol. Therefore, they have a

short and long term physical, emotional

anxiety, self-hatred, sense of failure and

lower tolerance for liquor. Finally, one’s

and mental ailments.

fear for the future begins to steal over

genes, as with everything else about

you, start telling yourself that what you

human beings, also play a role.

Tinus van Niekerk is TOPS at SPAR’s wine consultant and has been instrumental in refining the grocery chain’s wine offering. But wine is not the only thing that fascinates this Northern Cape-bred nature lover. He’s as au fait with bush lore, animal behaviour and geology as he is about wine.

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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

have is a hangover. . . You have not

References to hangovers in different

suffered a minor brain lesion, you are

languages are almost poetically

not all that bad at your job, your family

hilarious, the Swedes think they get

and friends are not leagued in a

“smacked from behind”, Salvadorans

conspiracy of barely maintained

awake “made of rubber,” and the

silence about what a sh*t you are, you

French with a “wooden mouth”, or with

have not come at last to see life as it

a “hair ache.” The Dutch and the

really is.” It sounds bad, does it not?

Germans tell you they have a

The severity of a hangover does not

“tomcat,” while the Danes are

only depend on how much you drank

convinced they get “carpenters in the

beforehand, but also what else, other

forehead.”

Tinus van Niekerk

HOW ABOUT HANGOVER CURES?

In the “The Hangover Handbook” Nic van Oudtshoorn suggests a recipe for an emetic, mixing mustard powder with water, and if you have “bed spins,” advocates sleep with one foot on the floor. A more sensible recommendation is drinking a lot of water, to match every glass of alcoholic beverage you take. Most important though, is to drink with consideration and discretion, including not opting for wines that are rough, pertinently alcoholic and overall inelegant on taste and palate.

It is a fact that alcohol in wine affects and even inhibits our experience and enjoyment of aromas and flavours. When alcohol exceeds more than 12% of a wine’s volume, it becomes possible to discern its irritating, quite pungent effects in the mouth and nose, especially if the wine does not contain sufficient flavour and fruit properties to balance and mask it.

As such, higher-alcohol wines, particularly those that surpass 14-15% and more, are often described as “hot” and unbalanced, also causing lip-burn at times. Flavour chemistry dictates that in wines with higher alcohol levels, lacking flavour personality and fruit expression, bitterness will be accentuated, the acidity freshness will be reduced and there will be a diminished release of most aroma molecules.

Alcohol particularly suppresses fruity and floral aromas, with the result that the remaining aromas will be primarily woody (in oaked wines), herbaceous and vegetal (onedimensional) of nature.

What remains then is that one should imbibe with utmost selection and discretion, and also ensure that the wine – regardless of price – is of exemplary sensory quality, with all components in balance: indeed, worth serving at the royal table.

Most important though, is to drink with consideration and discretion Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

15

Wine

Creative The rule of thumb when it comes to wine blending is that the sum of the parts should exceed the whole. Fiona McDonald investigates red blends.

S

outh Africa is richly blessed in many ways: this country has

some of the oldest soils in the

world, and farmers are able to successfully grow a broad range of different grapes in those soils – yet with vineyards stretching from the Cederberg and beyond to Elim and even Plettenberg Bay on the southern Cape coast, it’s possible to get a wide array of expressions from the same grape!

But that also makes it difficult. In France, for example, vintners have realised over centuries which grapes perform best in certain areas – and explains why Burgundy focuses solely on

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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Mixing it up

merger Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, or why the

Malbec grapes. If you pick up a

Rhone concentrates primarily on Shiraz.

Bordeaux wine you know it will contain

In South Africa you can get Chardonnay (or Chenin Blanc or Shiraz

30% of our homegrown grape Pinotage,

one, two, three or more of those specific

making it a so-called Cape blend.

grape varieties in varying proportions.

Perhaps we are TOO

touchstone for looking at the merging

And perhaps that should be the

or Cabernet Sauvignon…. ) from Stellenbosch to the Swartland to Elgin!

Which makes it somewhat confusing for

richly blessed?!

of the various grapes when considering

the consumer. It also means that when it

In France’s Bordeaux region where red

acquiring a comforting red blend to

comes to red blends the consumer

blends are the style of wine made – they

stave off the winter chill.

faces the bewildering prospect of the

grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,

wine potentially being a Bordeaux-style

Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and

blend – or the catchall non-Bordeaux blend. And in the latter category, anything goes! It could be a wine utilising predominantly Shiraz – which makes it a Rhone-style blend, or at least

Internationally and locally, recognition is unanimous that some of

In France, for example, vintners have realised over centuries which grapes perform best in certain areas Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

17

Wine

South Africa’s best wines are red

South African wines, among them were

for old South African red blends, among

Bordeaux-style blends: Kanonkop Paul

a 1965 Chateau Libertas and 1965,

them Masters of Wine Tim Atkin and

Sauer, Meerlust Rubicon, Rust en Vrede,

1969 and 1970 Zonnebloem Cabernet

Neal Martin. Martin has the important

Ernie Els, De Toren Fusion V, Rustenberg

Sauvignon. TOPS at SPAR wine fundi

task of pronouncing on the South

John X Merriman, Jordan Cobbler’s Hill

Christian Eedes who was also at the

African category for the massively

and Chateau Libertas.

tasting reported that Spurrier was

influential eRobertParker.com website,

Hopefully no-one fell off their chair

immensely impressed with these wines.

regarded as one of the most important

reading the last name – because it’s a

(Note, the Zonnebloem’s were not pure

in the wine world. He has gone on

wine which deserves to rub shoulders

Cabernet, having been bottled prior to

record as having stated that SA red

with some of the country’s most highly

the adoption of wine legislation about

wines can not only survive, but age well.

prized wines. And older examples of

minimum percentages of blend

Chateau Libertas which have been

components.)

well cellared are often hauled out for

“There’s an extraordinary confidence

As with many things, the real history of blended Bordeaux-style reds is quite recent. One of the first of the modern

visiting wine luminaries – to great effect.

and warmth about these wines.

generation was Meerlust with their

In early May, Steven Spurrier, consultant

Contrast this with Chateau Margaux,

ground-breaking 1980 Rubicon. Three

editor to Decanter magazine and the

for instance, which released a non-

decades later and the blend of

man internationally renowned for

vintage wine in 1965 as it was busy

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot created

having organised the 1976 Judgement

going bust.” Eedes reported that

by legendary winemaker Giorgio Dalla

of Paris in which Californian wines rated

Spurrier said of the 1970 Zonnebloem

Cia is not only going strong but still

more highly than their French

that there were not “too many

critically acclaimed and winning medals.

counterparts, was in South Africa for a

Haut-Medocs to match it”.

wine competition.

Spurrier happened to be the most

The night before the competition, the judges gathered for a tasting of old 18 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Kanonkop is perhaps more acclaimed with its Paul Sauer blend of

recent of the international wine

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and

cognoscenti to express genuine praise

Cabernet Franc having won the

Mixing it up

Spurrier happened to be the most recent of the international wine cognoscenti to express genuine praise for old South African red blends

International Wine & Spirit

of the blend – but over the years it has

flavour, texture, succulence and

Competition’s blended red trophy on

varied. The current expression

interest. Sure, an apple is crunchy and

more than one occasion, notably for

frequently contains both Shiraz and

juicy – but a fruit salad is so much more!

the 1991, 1995, 2003 and 2009 vintages

Ruby Cabernet.

It can be soft and squishy as well as

– the only wine to have ever done so!

The history of Chateau Libertas is

Anyone doubting its worthiness should consider the fact that the British

crunchy. There can be sweetness as well as tangy vibrancy.

And that’s what red blends should

inextricably linked with William Charles

Royal Family were served Chateau

(Bill) Winshaw, an American who

Libertas at the official State banquet

offer: complexity rather than the

began Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery

during their visit in 1947 – as well as at a

simplicity of a single grape variety,

(SFW) – which was ultimately merged

dinner in 1960 when British Prime

deeper texture and broader, richer

with Distillers Corporation in 2000 to

Minister Harold Macmillan visited the

mouthfeel – and just more interest and

form the current SA wine giant, Distell.

country and made his famous ‘winds of

excitement overall. The even better

It was at his instigation that Chateau

change’ speech in Parliament.

news is that there is literally something

Libertas, a light blended red wine, was

It’s important to remember that the

created way back in 1932. Original

point of a truly great red blend – such

records of precisely what the wine

as Meerlust Rubicon, De Toren Fusion V

contained were either lost or never

or Ernie Els – is that the whole should be

kept and even old South African wine

more attractive, more appealing, more

hands such as Duimpie Bayly and

drinkable and delicious than any of the

Dave Hughes who worked at SFW

individual components that have gone

could only state with any certainty that

into its making. I sometimes liken it to

Cabernet Sauvignon always comprised

the difference between enjoying just

a portion of the blend. For many years,

an apple or a single pear and a bowl

the humble Cinsaut grape formed part

of fruit salad which is packed with

for everybody – with a range of different blends at a variety of price points.

turn for tastings Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

19

Wine

Olive Brook Quintette 2011

A classic Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. The bouquet offers up mulberries, cedar, cassis and cherry – with flavours of the same found in the mouth. Luscious and opulent, the palate is textured and long with structure and tannin backbone. A rich, generous and well integrated wine, it will last well. Roast leg of lamb or perhaps a rack of lamb will be an ideal match.

The Tastings Available at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores

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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141

Tastings

Cederberg Shiraz/Merlot 2010

Aromas of sweet plum and blackcurrant fruit, underscored with hints of spices and oak vanilla. Accessible, smooth and well balanced on the palate with lengthy fruit-laden flavours. A perfect companion to traditional roast dishes, lamb, venison and mildly flavoured cheeses.

Fundi selection

Rust en Vrede Estate 2011

A classic Stellenbosch red, this wine is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz and Merlot playing supporting roles.

There’s a seductive violet perfume with sour plums, cassis and hint of cinnamon spice. The palate is refined,

The Chocolate Block 2013

If this wine was a movie, it would be a smash hit! It’s popular with wine lovers because of its approachability and noticeable cocoa/chocolate nuance. It’s mainly Syrah with some Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Cinsaut added. Expect to find bright red cherries and plums on the nose and palate. Generous and juicy with a rich, powerful body with some firm tannin backbone.

It’ll pair with anything from pizza and pasta like spaghetti bolognaise to stews and grills.

elegant and genteel with silky, ripe blackberry fruit. The oak is well integrated and there’s ample backbone and structure for this wine to last for a decade or longer. Another wine for a roast – beef and Yorkshire pudding – or a rare steak, rich casserole or grilled ribs.

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

21

Wine

Beyerskloof Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012 Red fruit aromas with wafts of plums, cassis and spice. Good

fruit intensity on the palate, mingled with soft oak impressions.

The ideal acidity and firm but ripe tannins render a well structured wine, most suitable to enjoy with beef, poultry, venison and pasta dishes.

Fundi selection

Wolftrap Red 2013

This blend of Shiraz and Mourvèdre has just a splash (2%) of Viognier which adds a delicate floral note to the nose. Succulent and juicy in the mouth with bold, generous plum fruit and notes of spice. Light and easy drinking, this wine will match anything from a boerewors roll to a hearty beef or lamb potjie.

Fundi selection

Edgbaston The Pepper Pot 2012

Blend of Rhône varietals: Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Grenache and Tannat.

A generous, full-bodied wine with ample black pepper, red fruit, floral and general spice driven aromas and flavours, structured on a platform of firm but accessible tannins. Try pairing it with venison stew, carpaccio, hearty lamb and bobotie.

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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Orange River Cellars Lyra 2011

Oaky coconut whiffs dominate the red fruit aromas of this blend Petit Verdot-driven blend. The palate is also overtly vanilla and spice flavoured with black berries and fruitcake nuances then coming through.

Light to medium bodied, the oak needs time to integrate. Perhaps best paired with robust flavours of spicy ribs or barbequed meat.

Wine Route

So cool it’s hot Traditionally an apple and pear growing region, Elgin has seen the number of wine producers explode from five in 2005 to nearly 30 just one decade later. Samarie Smith reports on this hottest of cool wine areas.

“

And the weather for Elgin is forecast

Paul Cluver

as cool with overcast conditions

and the mercury rising from a crisp 6 degrees to the middle to high teens…”

That radio weather forecast was theatrically confirmed by the thick cloud and engulfing the Hottentots Holland Mountains. Similar to Table Mountain, the southeaster drapes these mountains in a white table cloth which pours itself over the rocky crags in misty plumes. I take in

WWW.OLDMACDADDY.CO.ZA

the beautiful views of the Cape

Old Mac Daddy

WWW.CLUVER.COM

bank draping the top of Sir Lowry’s Pass

Elgin is situated in a natural

Metropole and False Bay, bathed in

amphitheatre of mountains etched out

bright sunlight. Reaching the summit the

over millennia; home to a vast array of

road bends left where I enter a fishpond-

soil types contributing to a terroir ideal

like highland valley; the sea of green

for the cultivation of noble grape

fynbos and vegetation soaking up a fine

varieties. From a high vantage point

misty rain. Welcome to the Elgin region,

one can see the rocky outcrops and

the home of apple orchards, Appletiser

the untamed terrain unique to the

and more recently, vineyards.

Kogelberg biosphere with the green undulating hills in the background.

Especially known for white cultivars, stellar five star wines in the 2015 Platter Wine Guide include Iona Chardonnay 2013, Kershaw Elgin Clonal Selection

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WWW.SOUTHHIL.CO.ZA

WWW.OAKVALLEYWINES.COM

Chardonnay 2013 and Oak Valley

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Mountain Reserve White Blend 2010.

These are aptly supported by other Elgin wineries receiving 4 and 4½ star ratings and which also excel on other wine platforms.

This beautiful and now flourishing valley had humble beginnings in the 1800’s being solely inhabited by subsistence farmers. “Let me rather first share some of the valley’s history,” says Dr Paul Cluver, whose great-grandfather bought De Rust farm in 1896.

“Only when the pass was built in 1828 did it bring more opportunities to the valley. In 1821, approximately 4 500 ox wagons crossed the mountain annually of which around 20% were damaged irreparably. It was apples which brought a defining shift from a struggling existence to that of entrepreneurship.”

Grabouw was founded on the farm, Grietjiesgat, owned by Wilhelm Langschmidt. He named the village Grabouw after his place of birth in

What to do when visiting Tours can be arranged to the

packing houses during applepicking season (January to May).

Call Norma Bridgman 021 848-9060. Alternatively there is also the Elgin Apple Museum on the banks of the Palmiet River.

Make sure to stop at a celebrating its 50th year.

Elgin Open Gardens: 31 October & 1 November and 7 & 8 November 2015 The Wine2Whales bike race is a huge annual attraction. Mountain bike enthusiasts also visit for trails like Cape Pines, Oak Valley and Paul Cluver. The original ox wagon-route over the mountain is also part of the annual Absa Cape Epic.

The Hope @ Paul Cluver amphitheatre is popular in summer months, supporting a good cause to uplift the local communities.

Adventurous visitors always have something to look forward. If not water sports, accommodation with a difference: from a house in the vineyards at South Hill, the Old Mac Daddy airstream caravans, or tented accommodation by the riverside.

Contact the Elgin valley tourism

WWW.PEREGRINEFARMSTALL.CO.ZA

at 021 848 9838 or send email toinfo@elginvalley.co.za Luncheon options varies from the green lawns of Paul Cluver (Fresh Restaurant), under the oak trees at Oak Valley (The Pool Room

Peregrine

Open gardens

farm stall like Peregrine, now

restaurant) to the Peregrine Farmstall.

FNB WINE2WHALES

The Land of Apples & Orchards

WWW.ELGINOPENGARDENS.CO.ZA - 2014:PALMIET RIVER

Elgin

Wine2Whales Germany. In the early 1900’s, three bachelor sons of Sir John Charles Molteno, the first prime minister of the Cape, bought a farm here and planted apples which saw the start of what was to become one of the largest apple exporting enterprises globally. The farm was named Glen Elgin after their home town in Scotland. With the industrial advancement of steam trains came the railway. Realising its potential, the brothers donated a portion of land to establish a railway station, named Elgin Station.

The fruit industry peaked in the 1950’s after World War II. Rationing was still a feature of daily life in Europe and anything canned was welcomed. It was a boom time for apple exports – a boom that lasted a few decades until a global market collapse when apple prices plummeted. Apples were no longer profitable.

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

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Wine Route

Shannon Wines

Just a few years before this, the Elgin region was identified as having potential as a cool wine growing region. The apple industry was not the concerted efforts of the local

WWW.ELGINWINE.CO.ZA

WWW.SHANNONWINES.COM

abandoned entirely and it was only

Almenkerk Wines

farmers that saw the industry revitalised to what it is today with 2 585 hectares under orchard producing 12% of the global industry’s apple and pear crop.

Charles Fox

Vineyard naissance Elgin has a great diurnal temperature range, close proximity to the sea and south-easterly winds; colder south and

WWW.ELGINWINE.CO.ZA

WWW.CHARLESFOX.CO.ZA

east facing slopes, high altitude and a large variety of deep, well drained soils.

All factors that allow grapes long hang-time on the vine, facilitating the creation of well balanced, elegant and complete wines. Along with its varied

to Villiersdorp & Franschhoek

R321 Winters Drift Wines

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Oak Valley Wines

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Cathy Marshall Wines

Almenkerk Wines

Map not to scale

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Tarred Road

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Elgin Ridge Wines

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Paul Cluver Wines

Belfield Wines

APPL

Elgin has a great diurnal temperature range, close proximity to the sea and south-easterly winds

Elgin Valley Tourism

Spioenkop Wines

Charles Fox

Elgin Wineries

Elgin regarded as one of South Africa’s best

and Brian Smith, now call home after

by many experts.

a long search through New Zealand, France and even England. “Once we

Spioenkop Wines:

discovered Elgin there was no doubt

The energetic Belgian Koen Roose

we’d found the right place to realise

Paul Cluver Wines:

believes perseverance played a

our dream.”

Built in 1996, their winery is one of the

pivotal role in his success. This

most recognised and awarded in the

ideology is testament to the acclaim

Almenkerk Wines:

region. A hit-list has to include the

achieved for his Spioenkop 1900

Belgian winemaker, Joris Van

Rieslings and Gewürztraminer,

Pinotage 2012.

Almenkerk, came to South Africa with

award-winning noble late harvest

the same idea and was prompted by

sweet wine, as well as their premium

Charles Fox:

his winemaking mentor, Mike

Pinot Noir, Seven Flags.

Businessman and “Champagne

Dobrovic, to look ‘over the

lover” Charles Fox took his lead from

mountain’.

Cathy Marshall Wines:

the terroir and planted grapes

“I’m just the orchestrator to help Pinot

traditionally grown in Champagne:

farm! All the orchards were pulled out

Noir express itself,” said the modest

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot

and vines planted. We moved to the

Ms Marshall. “I came here to continue

Meunier, producing three excellent

valley at a time when many farms

my journey with this extraordinary

MCC wines.

changed ownership and a lot of

“A week later we owned an apple

younger generations were taking

grape.” Her Pinots reflect the soils: those grown on clay soil reflecting

South Hill Wines:

over from their fathers, creating a

almost porcelain-like tannins and a

South Hill wines not only embrace the

dynamic buzz that was almost

delicate perfume of earth and

art of wine making, but also includes

tangible.”

berries. Those from sandstone soil are

art and offers accommodation as

more robust with intense, darker fruit

part of the experience.

In their stable, the Syrah and Chardonnay are especially impressive. Their achievements are

expression.

Winters Drift Wines:

further ratified by being a CVC

Oak Valley Wines:

Winters Drift Wines is a brand of the

Member(Cape Vintners

Oak Valley is not a ‘one-trick pony’

Molteno brothers (Pty) Ltd and have

Classification), an independent body

and has a highly regarded export

their Tasting Station aptly housed in

that selects less than 20 Estates in

flower business, one of the largest in

the historic Elgin Station. The recently

South Africa to represent distinctive

Africa. They also farm ethically with

launched 51 Miles range pays tribute

and site specific wines.

beef and pork, guaranteed pasture-

to the 1902 opening of the railway

reared, free-range, hormone and

line from Sir Lowry’s Pass to Caledon

Belfield Wines:

antibiotic free.

which passed through Elgin Station…

Michael Kreft of Belfield Estate

51 miles from Cape Town.

wanted to downsize, and sought out

Shannon Wines:

a smallish place to farm and consult

Elgin born and bred, James Downes

Elgin Ridge Wines:

on management and economic

has the benefit of his father having

Dorper sheep crop the grass between

issues – at a time when the fruit

farmed in the valley since 1978. “We

the vines while hefty Percheron

industry was going through a bad

make wines to express not impress –

stallion Maddox is the organic

patch. Like other Elgin farmers he

wines that tell a story of Elgin,” he says

equivalent of Elgin Ridge’s tractor

explored alternate crops and ended

– and their Mount Bullet Merlot is

and it’s where British couple, Marion

up making wine too.

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27

Wine Route

export market those days, but Brözel showed exceptional energy. Some people understand detail but cannot see the bigger picture. Others can see WWW.WINTERSDRIFT.COM

the bigger picture but don’t have the patience to deal with the detail. Brözel had the ability to do both,” said retired neurosurgeon Dr Cluver.

This “experimentally vinified” product impressed wine writers at a 1990 tasting. Wynboer magazine described it as, “delicate, yet distinct flavours”, which drew attention to this newfound gem of an area. De Rust was then renamed Paul Cluver and they produced their first WWW.WINTERSDRIFT.COM

Riesling under their own name in 1991.

Anthony Rawbone-Viljoen, custodian of Oak Valley, tells how his greatgrandfather, Sir Antonie Viljoen, made history when he bought the farm in 1898 and began shaping his first wine.

“Cinsault, Palomino and Groendruif (Semillon) were planted on the farm in terroir, the potential for distinctive

the early 1900’s. The winery was built in

wines, both white and red, is a given.

1907 although we also sold grapes to

Since the turn of the 21st century,

Douglas Green to produce sparkling wine. With the post-war conditions in

to benefit from these cool wine

Europe we had to eventually close the

growing conditions. It was, however, all

cellar but we would later build on this

due to the vision and drive of pioneers like Paul Cluver and the RawboneViljoen family of neighbouring Oak Valley in the 1980’s that vineyards were

WWW.BELFIELD.CO.ZA

there’s been an influx of people looking

legacy. At the same time when Brözel negotiated with Cluver, we decided to

Belfield

stay independent.”

Oak Valley ventured into a project

planted. They were the two farms

with the Nietvoorbij research centre in

selected by Nederburg’s Günter Brözel

Stellenbosch which approached them

and Ernst Le Roux to be part of

to take part in a cultivar evaluation

experimental plantings.

trial. Nietvoorbij supplied the material different cultivars and clones like

“40 hectares of vines were to be

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Weisser

the technical assistance and material

Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer,

to make the first Riesling with the Wine of Origin Elgin status in the Nederburg stable. People thought we were crazy to plant anything not destined for the 28 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

WWW.BELFIELD.CO.ZA

planted on De Rust with SFW providing

Pinot Noir and Merlot. Prof Eben Archer headed the trial and made a

Belfield

comparative study to see which cultivars performed best.

Elgin was officially classified and it continues to attract winemakers and enthusiasts,

Since the turn of the 21st century, there’s been an influx of people looking to benefit from these cool wine growing conditions.

including free thinkers like the late Klein Constantia winemaker, Ross Gower, Master of Wine Richard Kershaw and Cathy Marshall, all of whom travelled the world making wine before they chose Elgin to put down roots.

Elgin boasts some impressive producers: Iona, Shannon, Wildekrans, Spioenkop, South Hill, Charles Fox, Winter’s Drift, Elgin Ridge, Almenkerk, Elgin Vintners, Lothian, Paul Wallace, Oneiric, Glen Erskine, Corder, Highlands Road and Belfield Estate.

The allure of this unique terroir has not only caught the eye of the locals but is sought-after by estates and individuals such as KWV and Neil Ellis,

“In 1991 we started to produce commercially after Nietvoorbij

which either buy grapes from this area

recommended we plant Chardonnay,

or – like Vrede and Lust, Tokara and

Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot.

Thelema – have invested in pockets of

We sold Sauvignon Blanc grapes to

vineyards in the valley.

Bouchard Finlayson whose wine was well rated in the Platter wine guide. It provided an indication of what we could do.”

It was in 1990 that Elgin was officially recognised as a wine ward. RawboneViljoen recalls, “I’ll never forget the day in 1990 when the valley was declared an official wine ward. Duimpie Bayly,

WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM

A new Wine of Origin is born

Chairman of the Demarcation

Elgin Ridge Elgin Ridge

Committee, said it was the easiest decision he ever had to make. He brought a cooler box filled with champagne up the mountain so we

to miss – the sequence of rolling hills, the cool air… unique factors that account for wines of origin Elgin.”

It’s been nearly 15 years since Elgin

WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM

classification. And he was right: it’s hard

WWW.ELGINRIDGE.COM

could celebrate our distinctive

Elgin Ridge Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

29

IS FOR Ale…

Beer

Etymology is the study of words while linguistics is the study of language.

Any specialist pursuit or hobby has its own vocabulary or lexicon.

What follows below is the language of beer.

The Austrian philosopher Ludwig Wittgenstein said:

“The limits of my language mean the limits of my world.”

And Nelson Mandela is quoted as having said that when you speak to a man in a language he understands, it goes to his head. “When you talk to a man in his language, it goes to his heart.”

Which explains why he consciously learned to speak Afrikaans well, seen by his many freedom struggle compatriots as the ‘tongue of the racist oppressors’. Yet his Afrikaans fluency broke down barriers and led to better understanding and communication between the African National Congress and the former National Party government during South Africa’s fraught political transition to democracy.

Having the ability to fully understand, describe and communicate what you mean demands a good vocabulary – regardless of what it is that you are describing, art, science, engineering – or beer!

Before heading into beer vocabulary basics, there are some interesting facts about beer. Few people who consume the golden brew on a daily basis actually know or even appreciate its ancient history.

According to the Dictionary of Beer & Brewing by Dan Rabin and Carl Forget, the practise began in ancient Mesopotamia between 6000 and 7000 years ago.

It was in the fertile crescent of land between the Tigris and Euphrates, where grain and barley were easily cultivated and which formed a staple of people’s diets that fermentation and brewing was discovered. Because food preparation and provision of water was women’s work, brewing became part of the household chores. Which might also explain why the ancient Sumerians used to sing songs of praise to Ninkasi, the goddess of brewing rather than a male counterpart. Beer brewing also apparently remained woman’s work until the Middle Ages.

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Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

language Scholars and academics studying ancient clay tablets have discovered that as far back as 4 500 BCE up to 19 different kinds of beer or ale were produced by the Babylonians, the same book states. In fact, Hammurabi, the Babylonian king even enacted legislation governing beer – including a daily ration of beer which varied according to social status. “(French emperor) Charlemagne also promoted the birth of brewing science. From his era (8th Century) emerged the world’s first modern brewer, Saint Gall. Refining the brewing process, Gall introduced methods for mashing, fermenting, storing and caring for ale that changed the character of European ale.

“The precedent established by Charlemagne combined with the power of the church enabled monks to control brewing over the next several centuries. Monks not only had the time but also the inclination to brew the most premium beer possible. Monastery meals were frugal; a pleasant tasting, nutritious brew was highly desirable as an accompaniment. Liquids were also not considered to break a fast, so beer was always permitted, and beer consumption in monasteries reached astonishing levels – it is recorded that in some monasteries monks were allowed as much as five litres per day.”

(If anyone wants to read more about the origins of beer, the Dictionary of Beer & Brewing retails for around $15.95 from online book sellers.)

A

is for Ale, the historic brew made initially only from barley, water

C

is for carbonation, the light sparkle from carbon dioxide in

and yeast but frequently spices and

the brew which not only helps to give

herbs were added. Hops only became

beer its distinctive foamy head but also

part of the recipe centuries later. Ales

the drinker a surfeit of gas, with

are top-fermented beers and typically

resulting gastric discomfort often

brewed at warmer temperatures.

relieved by means of a burp or belch!

B

is for Barley and Bitters. Barley is the cereal grain used as the base

D

H

is for Hops: Hops is a small conelike flower which grows on a vine –

and only the female plant yields these

is for Draught – a beer poured into

flowers which impart the distinctive bitter

a glass directly from the keg by

aroma and flavour to beer. There are a

for the production of beer – and other

means of a tap. So never bottled or

myriad different types of hops grown

distilled spirits such as whisky, for

otherwise packaged, it’s often

around the world, with the Saaz hop

example. Bitters doesn’t describe the

considered fresher and more tasty

being just one of them. It’s considered an

aromatic liquid used to colour and

as a result.

essential part of the brewing process.

flavour gaudy cocktails but describes the sharpness of flavour imparted to a

E

is for Esters, the technical sounding term for things which

beer by hops. Hops is added during the

impart smells to beer, often described

boiling stage of brewing and the longer

as fruity or flowery aromas.

it’s part of the process, the more bitter the final brew will be.

B

F

the mid-1800’s.

carbon dioxide by the action of

difference between top and bottom…

yeast inoculation.

G

a strongly hopped brew which could

by which the sugars in the cereal

grain are converted into alcohol and

than floating on the top. Hence the

the East India Company which wanted withstand the sea voyage to India in

– the opposite of top fermentation.

base of the fermentation tank rather

pale ale developed specifically for

is for fermentation – the process

is also for Bottom Fermentation

In this process, yeast cells sink to the

I

is for India Pale Ale or IPA – a style of

J

is for the Joy which results from supping on a perfectly chilled

glass of golden nectar with

is for Grist – which is when the

condensation dewing

grains of barley and malt are

the outside of the glass…

ground up finely to get them ready for the brewing process of mashing.

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

31

Beer

O

is for Oktoberfest, held in Munich, Bavaria for two weeks in late

September and into October. It’s been held annually since 1810 and is a celebration of Bavarian culture involving beer, food, music and gemütlichkeit, originally started to mark the wedding of Crown Prince Ludwig to a Saxe-Coburg Princess, Therese.

K

P

is Pilsener – the very hoppy, pale, golden brew first fermented in the

Q R

is for Quality – see Rheinheitsgebot below.

is for Keg, the cylindrical vessel

Czechoslovakian town of Plzen in 1842.

used for the storage and transport

It is a bottom-fermented beer which

of beer. Historically kegs were wooden

usually has an alcohol by volume of

William IV, Duke of Bavaria, who

but nowadays are manufactured from

around 5%. One of the most

decreed that only barley, hops and

aluminium or steel for their ability to

international examples is Pilsner

water could be used in the making of

withstand the pressure of the carbon

Urquell, a product which was patented

beer. Nothing else.

dioxide filled beverage. A keg

as far back as 1898. It’s now one of the

generally contains 30 gallons or around

many global brands in the SAB stable.

is for Rheinheitsgebot – the beer purity law introduced in 1516 by

S

is for Stout, a dark brown, almost black brew which commonly

is also for Pale Ale – a brew initially

P

boasts a thick, creamy head.

made from pale malt, a less smoky,

The colour and flavour is derived

roasted barley which naturally imparted

from the roasted barley

fermenting yeast at colder

a lighter colour and less hoppy flavour.

which is almost charred

temperatures. Lagering was developed

And let’s not forget Porter – the dark,

by a German brewer. Prior to this it

hoppy, slightly bitter, top-fermented beer

used to only be possible to brew beer

which was brewed for porters, labourers

seasonally – and this cooler process,

and carters by Ralph Harwood in

assisted by the development of

London’s Shoreditch area in 1730. It was

refrigeration in the mid-1800’s,

believed that this “stronger” beer would

allowed for year round brewing while

provide the strength needed by these

also producing a clearer, crisp and

men in their manual labours. The dark

cleaner beer.

colour came from the use of roasted,

120 litres of beer.

L

is for Lager, any type of beer fermented with a bottom

M

is for Munich, home to the

unmalted barley. It eventually fell out of

world’s largest beer festival – the

favour with straight bitter taking over.

Oktoberfest (see below). It also stands for Malt, the processed barley which has been saturated in water and begun

P

is also for Pint, one-eighth of a gallon – or in metric terms 567ml.

the process of germination before being dried so that its starches can be fermented.

N

is for Ninkasi, the ancient Sumatran goddess of beer,

before being fermented. It imparts a

worshipped through the ages but

rich chocolate or coffee flavour to the

somehow forgotten in modern times.

resulting beverage.

32 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

language

U V

is text speak for YOU,

the consumer… is for Volume – specifically alcohol by volume which varies

according to different styles of beer, from light at 1 or 2% to heavy such as the Trappist brews which weigh in with

T

anything from 5% to 7, 8, 9 and even is for Trappist beer, brewed in only 11 Trappist monasteries

worldwide, six in Belgium, two in the

10% alcohol by volume.

W

is for Weiss beer or Witbier – which can mean beer made

Netherlands and one each in Italy,

from wheat or the Belgian term for

Austria and the United States. It’s

white beer, also brewed from wheat.

subject to certain laws and

This type of beer can be cloudy or

consequently has to be brewed within

crystal clear when filtered, and

the walls of a Trappist monastery, the

the taste is fresh and smooth,

beer quality should be non-negotiable

sometimes spicy, with a noticeable

and excellent, the brewery should be

lack of hop bitterness.

only of secondary importance to the monastery and it should be a non-profit venture.

T

X

is difficult to find but how about the beers with X in their name –

Mexico’s Dos Equis and Australia’s

is also for Top Fermentation, a

Castlemain XXXX lager? The two x’s on

method favoured in the making

the former’s label were the Roman

Y

is for Yeast – one of most

of ales in which the yeast cells rise to

numerals for 10, signalling the heralding

the surface of the tank during alcoholic

in of the 20th century. The Aussie brew

brewing process. Yeast kick starts the

fermentation.

began in 1924 and those four x’s were

fermentation process and feeds on the

used to indicate that this was a strongly

fermentable sugars, converting them

flavoured beer.

into alcohol.

Z

necessary ingredients in the

– Zzzzzz – the noise made when gently snoring after enjoying and

ale or lager.

(Sources: Dictionary of Beer & Brewing; www.beeradvocate.com; www.craftbeer.com/beer-glossary; www.wikipedia.com)

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

33

spirits

Woman of spirit

never been a problem.

There have obviously been some jokes told which were probably not appropriate for women but you develop a tough skin. It’s never impacted my career.”

Attitudes are changing – both among the men in the whisky industry but also among women who are now thinking

“It’s a bit of shock, I tell you,” Dr Kirstie McCallum states, casting a

glance over her shoulder at the yacht basin adjacent to the Cape Grace Hotel’s Bascule whisky bar with Table Mountain’s rugged sandstone façade looming large in the distance.

“When I left New York a day or two ago it was minus 25 degrees and snowing – and I’ve hit Cape Town’s hot summer with a bang.

She’s a trained analytical chemist, whisky blender and now the globetrotting brand ambassador for Scottish Leader and Bunnahabhain – but it all happened “by accident”, Dr Kirstie McCallum admits.

about potential career paths. “There

are more women coming through,” she said in an interview granted in 2009. “There are a lot

more females behind the scenes on the sensory side. I don’t know if it’s ever been proven but it’s said that women have better noses than men.”

Perhaps that’s why, McCallum told The Scotsman newspaper, her job as a blender was likened to that of a parfumier. “You’re looking at

characteristics, tasting notes; there’s definitely a correlation.

We’re searching for base notes,

I’m loving it!” she said when

floral notes, you’ve really got to

interviewed a few months ago.

examine the whole character of

And on the topic of shocks, her

the spirit, not just one part of it.

appointment by Burn Stewart Distillers

Whiskies are so complex that you

as a head blender – one of the first

might get a dominant note in a

woman and certainly the youngest

whisky but find that there are a

ever – was greeted with a few raised

lot of things playing underneath

eyebrows a few years ago. But

the surface.”

McCallum doesn’t see herself as a

Her unfettered delight in visiting

flag-waving feminist, saying instead

South Africa and the Mother City for the

that she’s only ever experienced

first time is patently obvious. After years

support and encouragement from her

in windowless laboratories she is loving

colleagues in the whisky industry.

her peripatetic lifestyle of airports,

“I’ve been on sites where I’ve been the only woman – and it’s 34 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

passports, hotel room and living out of a suitcase – even if packing for trips

whisky such as this latest one present logistical challenges to her wardrobe selection.

She admits she was lazy at school and had “no clue” about what to do afterwards. It was only after leaving school that she discovered her aptitude for chemistry – and she followed that path all the way through to a doctorate in the subject from Glasgow University.

She had a vague idea of possibly going into cancer research before she fell into the whisky industry after being offered a short term contract with a grain distillery. The rest, as they say, is history. McCallum gained experience at both Glasgow’s Port Dundas distillery as well as Chivas Brothers as part of the technical team – which also saw her working with rum and other spirits. She joined Burns Stewart Distillers − bought in 2013 by South African company

becomes animated. “We have two

different styles of events that we offer with Bunnahabhain, for

example, one is a cocktails and

canapé pairing and the other is a full on dinner match with the

entire range of Bunnahabhain whiskies – the 12-year-old,

18-year-old and 25-year-old.”

“There’s this Scottish

chocolatier in the Highlands who

That’s one of the things she loves most about her exposure to the fascinating world of whisky: there is literally a whisky for every taste. The area of origin, the time in barrel, the type of barrel whether ex-Bourbon or Sherry or Port cask – all have a role to play in the final product which is bottled and placed on the shelf for the willing buyer.

As she stated in The Scotsman some years ago: “I know it sounds really

makes the most amazing

sad but I love my job.”

Highlands cream and spices.

different cask samples: “There’s so

artisanal chocolates using

Those – with Bunnahabhain whiskies – are a particular

favourite of mine, especially the lemongrass cream and the

12-year-old! Makes me salivate at the thought…”

One of the surprise elements of the

That stretches from looking at

much variety that you’re always coming across something new.

It’s amazing to me that I can walk through a warehouse full of casks and find so many different flavours there. Different ages, different ways of maturation – all

Distell − in 2007 and has spent some of

dinner pairing is the ‘cheeseburger’

these things make such a

her happiest times with the company.

dessert.

difference to the end product. It’s

“I spent a lot of time working

“People are so surprised by this,”

with master blender Ian

McCallum recounts with obvious glee.

MacMillan and learned so much.”

“It’s a sweet macaroon with a

She concedes that her nearly six years in a laboratory left her itching to get out from behind the equipment and engage with consumers. “I love

talking to people – and I know the passion that people have for the product. Consumers know their brand and love it deeply.”

chocolate fondant filling and a slice

of mango on top. That’s served with the 25-year-old Bunnahabhain. It’s

really quite exciting sometimes.”

These days it includes dropping her dog off at her parents’ home before flying to multiple cities and continents in the space of a few weeks, spreading the gospel of whisky and interacting

totally unexpected and people are

with consumers.

when they experience how well it

shut the door on a return to the

actually quite pleasantly shocked works.”

What intrigues McCallum is how

As much as she’s loving it, she’s not laboratory. “I’d like to go back to

blending one day. Having been

tastes differ. In Sweden, she says, they

exposed to direct consumer

blenders to get out and mingle to

love heavily peated, smoky and

feedback can only be useful if and

hear what consumers think about

powerful whiskies while other countries

when I’m back at the bench

the product.”

prefer lighter, gentler styles. “You

nosing and tasting whisky

“I think it’s really good for

It was when she began giving master

can’t tar everyone with the same

classes in whisky appreciation and

brush and say men prefer heavier

food and whisky pairing that she

whiskies and women lighter

moved her focus beyond the walls of

whiskies. Not at all: it’s a very

the tasting laboratory. Start asking her

personal thing – and is also quite

about what works well and she

mood driven.”

samples making up blends.”

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

35

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A collection of good times waiting to happen.

Leisure

Boulder s Hermanus

38 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

holidays

t Whale h ig R n r e h t Sou

Thrills vs chills?

What sort of vacation do you prefer: one spent lounging around soaking up the sun with a frosty cocktail glass close by, or one where the day is not long enough for you to fit in all the things you want to do?

Fiona McDonald looks at active holidays.

T

here’s a bit of wordplay involved

ticked all the boxes. They have

but it is indeed possible to merge

involved a journey away from home,

being idle while having an idyll.

beautiful surroundings, rest and

That’s because the dictionary definition

relaxation, time to read a book and

of the word idyll is “an extremely

simply do nothing. But the best

happy, peaceful, or picturesque period

recollections are of the activities

or situation, typically an idealized or

involved on those same trips– cycling

unsustainable one”. And that of idle is

along the Loire river visiting Chateaux in

of being lazy, avoiding work and of

France, cruising the Canal du Midi in a

something that is pointless and “without

barge, paddling the Orange river In

purpose or effect”.

Namibia, skiing a snowy slope in Chile

A holiday, the dictionary states, is “an extended period of leisure and

or walking the Whale Trail at De Hoop.

Even the lazy holidays have been

recreation, especially one spent away

relatively active! In December one year

from home or travelling”. Vacations are

I camped with friends in an indigenous

intended to be a break from the daily

forest at the northern tip of KwaZulu-

grind, the reality of waking up, flinging

Natal – at Mabibi. While much of our

some cereal in a bowl or a slice of

time was spent sprawled on a beach,

bread in the toaster and munching it in

there were also hours spent finning

a hurry while getting the kids dressed

along in the clear, warm water with a

and off to school and then facing the

mask and snorkel, gazing at impossibly

commute to work to earn your daily

bright tropical fish, a moray eel and

crust. It’s intended to recharge your

octopus or two. Then there was the five

batteries, replenish your zest for life and

kilometre night hike to look for nesting

also allow you the luxury of indulging

leatherback turtles, the games of

yourself – either in food, drink or even

beach cricket and Frisbee tossing…

an afternoon nap.

And let me warn you about beach

Some of the fondest memories of

access: there were in excess of 120

holidays I have are those which have

steps down to – and up from! – the Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

39

Leisure

working on a tan while reading a book.

And if anyone doesn’t want to do the day’s swim, there’s always a spot on the chase boat from which to watch beach, laden down like a pack donkey with cooler boxes, umbrellas,

the other participants splash about.

It came about after Simon Murie, the

bags of towels, bats, Frisbees and

founder of SwimTrek, wanted to swim

snorkelling kit!

the Hellespont, a stretch of water in northern Turkey which divides Europe

HOLIDAYS ARE ABOUT DOING THINGS YOU WOULDN’T NORMALLY DO. Even the cultural days of visiting a

he made the crossing in 1810. After a

physically taxing with all the amount

through red tape, Murie crossed in an hour… “This total imbalance between time organising and time swimming

travel industry that markets activity

made me realise that there must be

holidays. Cycling and walking tours

other swimmers out there who wanted

make up the largest part of this but it’s

to do these swims but didn’t want to

possible to find any sort of activity that you can imagine. Cooking tours, surfing tours, diving all sorts of exotic locations, overland safaris, mountain trekking, skiing… and there are even swimming holidays. Yup! Swimming… SwimTrek is a British operator (www.swimtrek.com) which organises fabulous holidays for

Active travel is, at its heart, a way of connecting more authentically with the world

people who love splashing around in

spend the time organising it all. Hence

open water. Their website details

the idea behind SwimTrek was born!”

itineraries for holidaymakers to swim

he writes on their website.

from island to island in Greece – or

Similarly, Tom Hale, the president and

along the Dalmatian coast in Croatia,

founder of American operator,

lakes in natural parks in Slovenia,

Backroads Travel, found himself

America and the Caribbean – or even

wanting to connect and immerse

some of the waters in the Lake District.

himself in the life of a region, rather

It’s geared at keen open water

than superficially viewing it from the

swimmers, a sporting activity that is just

window of a bus or car.

exploding in the United Kingdom – and

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

the Greek hero Leander’s swim when week of organisation and cutting

But there is a specific segment of the

40 www.topsatspar.co.za

mythology – and Lord Byron replicated

museum or art gallery can be of walking involved!

Richtersveld

from Asia. It was made famous in Greek

“I simply can’t imagine a better way

the holiday involves instruction and

to immerse yourself in the life of a

stroke correction should you want it.

region, to explore hidden corners and

But it’s not obsessive: there’s lots of

appreciate nuances while enjoying the

down time with relaxing side trips, time

benefits and enormous satisfaction of

spent in tavernas or around the pool

travelling under your own power. Active

holidays

lot of interesting optional activities, such as glacier walking, kayaking, hiking, a scenic flight and cruise, and of course bungee jumping!”

Friends of mine plan walking holidays in Europe every year.

They’ve strolled the magnificent Cinque Terre in Italy, seen Spain and parts of Germany – and the stories they

Orange River

ana Sodw

tell about sitting in weinstubes, or cantinas and bistros, engaging with the locals are entrancing. Others have done cooking classes in Thailand and come home armed with fantastic recipes and

travel is, at its heart, a way of

new skills which they then share with

connecting more authentically with the

friends and family. And while it is possible

world,” Hale wrote on www.backroads.

to organise them yourself, so often it’s

com. “When I think about all the places

easier and even more cost efficient to

I still have left to explore, and those I

do it through a tour operator. They’ve

want to revisit and enjoy again, I’m

been in the game for ages and offer

constantly reminded what a gift it is to

everything you need – including

be able to explore the world actively.”

bicycles, GPS handsets, helmets and will

And he’s not alone. Here’s a testimonial from one traveller, Jennifer Wu of Ohio: “What a fantastic trip! Great

even ensure your luggage is carted from hotel to hotel for you. No muss, no fuss!

Frequently, idle holidays involve

biking! I kept thinking how lucky I was to

indulgence in too much braai or beer

be in New Zealand as I rode down the

and result in a kilogram or two to shed at

coast, through peaceful countryside,

the end of it. So there’s something to be

past lakes and rivers of unbelievable

said for being able to watch the sunset,

shades of blue, through the rainforest,

nibbling on a few snacks, drink in hand,

and up and over the Southern Alps.

anticipating a good dinner, knowing

There was quite a bit of flexibility in the

that you cycled, walked (or swam!) a

itinerary to do as much or as little biking

few kilometres, and the danger of

as one wanted, as well as time to do a

packing on the pounds is limited!

...there’s something to be said for being able to watch the sunset, nibbling on a few snacks, drink in hand, anticipating a good dinner, knowing that you cycled, walked (or swam!) a few kilometres...

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

41

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42 www.topsatspar.co.za Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

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www.topsatspar.co.za 43

Entertainment

Visions and dreams music

Author Matt Haig writes: “The tunnel does have light at the end of it, even if we haven’t been able to see it... Words, just sometimes, really can set you free.” And there are echoes of those sentiments in this issue’s collections of music, movies and books ‒ from first ever American Idol winner Kelly Clarkson’s new album with the anthemic tune Stronger already receiving good airplay, to the Oscar-winner Marion Cotillard’s portrayal of an immigrant fresh off the boat ‒ to Haig’s remarkable story

cd’s

Mumford & Sons – Wilder Mind The third album marks a major change in the British band’s sound. Graduating from the banjo-plucking, stomp-and-clap neo-folk movement they helped create, the quartet embraces a bold and electrifying brand of stadium-filling alt-rock.

There’s hardly an acoustic guitar used on Wilder Mind, where producer James Ford (Arctic Monkeys, Florence + The Machine) presents the band’s stuck-in-your-head, heart-on-sleeve songcraft with echoing, spacious authority. With thick electric guitars and atmospheric keyboards, hard-driving anthems like “Believe” or “The Wolf” prove that one of the decade’s most distinctive bands is every bit as powerful with the electricity turned on.

Death Cab for Cutie – Kintsugi Death Cab for Cutie named their eighth studio album after a Japanese art movement in which broken ceramics are fused together again with precious metals. It’s a symbolic statement from a band at a crossroads: though Kintsugi is their last release with founding guitarist and longtime producer Chris Walla, its elegantly layered indie rock bears his considerable influence. Both the breathtaking guitars of “Ingenue” and the elegiac beauty of “You’ve Haunted Me All Your Life” showcase dynamics nearly 20 years in the making.

the PAPER

Kelly Clarkson – Piece by Piece Following the triumphant Stronger, Kelly Clarkson offers some of her finest work to date. Filled with great hooks and a host of guest contributions, Piece by Piece finds the inaugural American Idol champion at her most intimate. While the anthem “Take You High” features glistening strings and a shape-shifting chorus, the plaintive John Legend duet “Run Run Run” is bolstered by haunting vocal interplay and a chilling coda. Elsewhere, on the album’s unforgettable title cut, Clarkson reflects on parenthood amidst martial drums and liquid guitars to devastating effect.

CORNER The Doll’s House –

received regular texts from her

Nora Webster is recently widowed.

A young woman wakes in a

over the years.

Unmoored by her sudden loss and

cold, dark cellar, with no idea

For DI Helen Grace it’s chilling

the needs of her children which she

how she got there or who

evidence that she’s chasing a

now must raise alone, she faces a

kidnapped her. So begins her

twisted monster who is clever

future that was never meant to be.

terrible nightmare.

and resourceful – a predator

But within Nora is a strength – a

who’s killed before.

quiet resolve not to succumb to

The body of another young woman is discovered buried on

44

Nora Webster – Colm Tóibín

MJ Arlidge

As Helen struggles to

others’ expectations and, through

a remote beach. But the dead

understand the killer’s

the discovery of music and the gift

girl was never reported missing

motivation, she realises she’s in a

of friendship, she may just find a

– her estranged family having

desperate race against time...

way to live again.

dvd’s

Love, Rosie Since the

moment they met at age 5, Rosie (Lily Collins) and Alex (Sam Claflin) have been best friends, facing the highs and lows of growing up side by side. A fleeting shared moment, one missed opportunity, and the decisions that follow send their lives in completely different directions. As each navigates the complexities of life, love, and everything in between, they always find their way back to each other – but is it just friendship, or something more?

CD’s, DVD’s and books

Maps to the Stars A darkly

comic tour into the heart of a Hollywood family chasing celebrity, one another and the relentless ghosts of their pasts.

Meet the Weiss family, who are making their way in a sun-soaked Southern California rife with money, dreams, fame, envy, angst, yearning – and relentless hauntings.

Stafford Weiss (John Cusack) is a famed TV self-help therapist, whose “Hour of Personal Power” has brought him an A-list celebrity clientele. Meanwhile, Cristina Weiss (Olivia Williams) has her work cut out managing the career of their disaffected child-star son, Benjie (Evan Bird), fresh out of rehab at age 13.

Yet unbeknownst to any of them, another member of the Weiss family has arrived in town – mysteriously scarred and tormented Agatha (Mia Wasikowska), just released from a psych ward and ready to start again. Even in this realm of the artificial, the make-believe and the unearthly, Agatha’s determined to make it, no matter what it takes.

The Immigrant

This 1920’s-set drama stars Marion Cotillard as Ewa Cybulski, a Polish woman who, after immigrating to New York in the hope of a better life for her and her sister, falls prey to a mysterious man named Bruno (Joaquin Phoenix).

In search of the American dream, Ewa and her sister, Magda, sail to Ellis Island, only to be separated when Magda falls ill.

With nowhere to go, Ewa quickly falls prey to Bruno, a charming but wicked man who forces her to perform in his nightly burlesque show. There she encounters the dazzling magician Orlando, who sweeps her off her feet and becomes her only chance to reunite with her sister and escape the nightmare.

The Iron Necklace – Giles Waterfield

The wedding of Thomas, an idealistic German architect, and Irene, an English artist, brings together the Curtius and Benson families.

But their peace is soon shattered by the outbreak of war in Europe.

While Irene struggles to survive in a

aftermath relationships are tested, sacrifices are made and Irene and her

exploration of how to live better, love

siblings strive to find their place in an

better and feel more alive, Reasons to

evolving world.

Stay Alive is more than a memoir. It is a book about making the most of your

country where she is the enemy, her sister Sophia faces the war as a nurse

A moving, funny and joyous

Reasons to Stay Alive –

time on earth.

on the Western Front. For their

Matt Haig

brother Mark, diplomatic service sees

Aged 24, Matt Haig’s world caved in.

clichés remain the truest. Time heals.

him moving between London,

He could see no way to go on living.

The bottom of the valley never provides

Washington and Copenhagen, all

This is the true story of how he came

the clearest view. The tunnel does have

the while struggling to confront his

through crisis, triumphed over an illness

light at the end of it, even if we haven’t

own identity.

that almost destroyed him and learned

been able to see it... Words, just

to live again.

sometimes, really can set you free.’

Against a backdrop of war and its

‘I wrote this book because the oldest

DISCLAIMER All books featured here are distributed by Penguin Books SA. Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

45

Talent spotting

High and low notes

South Africa’s musical tradition is deeply rooted in all cultures – and music has the power not just to unite people but to be transported and make them weep at its beauty. Norman McFarlane looks at the state of the operatic nation.

J

uly Zuma. Pretty Yende. Given Nkosi. Khumbuzile Dlamini.

Lynelle Kenned. Bongani Tembe. Elizabeth Frandsen. Do any of these names ring a bell for you?

How about Sibongile Khumalo, Gé Korsten, Mimi Coertse, Deon

van der Walt and Aviva Pelham?

If any of these names strike a chord with you, chances are you are a lover of opera, and you’ll know that while the latter group includes names of some great talents who are no longer with us, the former group lists a small sample of the enormous reservoir of operatic talent that has emerged since the dawn of our democracy, some 21 years ago.

Not only have they all made their mark singing locally, most of them have enthralled audiences all over the world, and continue to do so.

Pretty Yende(pictured) is perhaps the best-known contemporary operatic talent, who has emerged from humble beginnings, to be fêted as one of the most significant opera singers of our time.

Born in Piet Retief, Mpumalanga, Ms Yende was fortunate enough to study at the South African College of Music at the University of Cape Town, where she graduated cum laude, after which she studied at Academia Teatro alla Scala in Milan, Italy.

Although her undeniable talent was already turning heads in South Africa, she shot to international prominence, when in 2009, she won all four sections in the Hans Gabor Belvedere International Singing Competition in Vienna, Austria, in twin categories: the audience prize, and opera and operetta.

She’s won much more since but more importantly she has performed to standing ovations on most of the 46 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

opera he did in the early stages of his career.

great opera stages of the world. At the

fundraising vehicle to provide financial

age of 30, Ms Yende is considered one

assistance to emerging operatic talent

of the most significant operatic talents

from previously disadvantaged

funding is that so many of our local

on the international stage. And all this,

backgrounds. Ms Yende was one of the

greats now work almost permanently

because she heard a snippet of opera

early beneficiaries of the Trust, but once

overseas, including but not limited to

in a British Airways advertisement which

she was firmly established on the

Given Nkosi, July Zuma, Pretty Yende

inspired her to want to sing and to share

international operatic circuit, she

and Phumeza Mtshikiza to name a few.

her voice with the world.

immediately started to give back.

With Cape Town Opera being the

But making it in the opera world isn’t

As far back as 2008, Ms Yende was

The tragedy of the lack of local

only local full time troupe with regular

easy, as Ms Yende and many of her

instrumental in staging benefit concerts

local productions and international

contemporaries will attest. One of the

with her contemporaries, all of whom

tours, it is difficult for the wealth of local

biggest problems is funding, something which has plagued so many of our greatest emerging artistic talents.

Although Government often speaks glowingly of the achievements of our burgeoning operatic talent, it seldom puts its money where its mouth is and precious little in the form of funding is forthcoming.

At 30, Ms Yende is considered one of the most significant operatic talents on the international stage.

talent to find gainful employment in our country. The result? Most of our stars sing overseas where they can earn well, returning to grace our stages periodically when shows are staged here periodically.

And so as the voices of yesteryear – Mimi Coertse, Gé Korsten, Deon van der Walt – leave us for that great opera

Ms Yende was conferred the Silver Order of Ikhamanga on April 27 2013,

stage in the sky, today’s burgeoning

“for her excellent achievement and

talent brings a new energy, vitality and

international acclaim in the field of world

aptitude to a singing medium that is

opera and serving as a role model to

quintessentially Eurocentric.

aspiring young musicians.” In October

That Black South Africans have taken

last year, Arts and Culture Minster Nathi

so readily to this art form, regarded by so

Mthethwa lauded Bongani Tembe, not

many as elitist “Old Europe” comes as

only for his fine achievements as an

little surprise to Pretty Yende: “We are a

opera singer, but also for the prominent

singing nation. We are born with a beat.

role he has played in promoting classical

We cry, we sing. We laugh, we sing.

music and opera in his role as Chief

We’re sad, we sing. We lose, we sing. We

Executive and Artistic Director of the

gave their time and talent to raise

win, we sing,” Yende said. “So song has

KwaZulu-Natal Philharmonic Orchestra.

funds for the Trust. The generosity of

been part of us for a long, long time.”

None of this has led to government coughing up any money, so it falls to private sponsorships to sustain the network

spirit of this community of rising stars is quite remarkable.

Tenor July Zuma, who benefited

And as the annual Amazwi Omzansi Africa (Voices of South Africa) talent search gets underway – all nine

of operatic stages and orchestras that

handsomely from a concert in December

provinces are visited every year, in

are essential to the staging and nurturing

2009 just before he departed to study in

search of new operatic talent – be

of our operatic talent.

Vienna, was back on stage in 2010 with

assured that out there somewhere is the

“Pretty Yende and Friends” – Pretty

next Pretty Yende or July Zuma, waiting

of Diemersfontein Wine Estate in

Yende, Albert Combrinck, Luthando

to be discovered, and the best thing

Wellington, established the

Qave, Given Nkosi, and Elizabeth

you can do if you love opera, is to go

Diemersfontein “Excellence Out of

Frandsen – to raise funds for the new

and listen to, watch and revel in our

Africa” Bursary Trust some years ago as a

talent that arguably struggles as much as

local talent, to help fund its future.

David and Susan Sonnenberg, owners

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

47

Book Giveaway

Cowboy in the kitchen

He might have the most recognisable cranium on the local cooking scene but chef Pete Goffe-Wood crams a lot into that space with its distinctive divot.

F

rank honesty – about learning to cook as a way to impress girls – is typically Pete Goffe-Wood’s style. He’s a no-nonsense kinda guy – but is just as quick to laugh and poke fun at himself or some of the

holy cows that exist in the restaurant game. His irreverence hides a very keen cooking brain and his skills have been honed by stints in top kitchens locally and abroad. Goffe-Wood is as comfortable teaching a bunch of blokes how to carve a roast leg of lamb as he is addressing a woman’s only fundraising lunch. The gift of the gab is just one of his many talents and he’s as comfortable behind the braai fire as he is finessing delicate desserts onto the plate for a gathering of hundreds.

London’s Le Gavroche restaurant is credited with kick starting gastronomy in Britain after World War II and former chef patron Albert Roux is the ultimate gastronomic godfather having trained Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay and a host of other international household names. When Roux visited South Africa a few years ago to cook for a wine launch, Pete

Warm Salad of Chicken Livers, Bacon & New Potatoes with Crisp Green Beans, Poached Egg & Vinaigrette Serves 4

Goffe-Wood was the man he wanted at his side helping him.

Goffe-Wood was one of the most recognisable local celebrity chefs

INGREDIENTS:

even before the South African version of Masterchef introduced him to a

200g new potatoes

broader audience. A Life Digested is not just a collection of recipes, it’s

olive oil for frying

almost a diary of his adventures over the years, from those early amorous

100g streaky bacon

escapades to anecdotes about the restaurants where he has trained,

salt and pepper

worked and run, to comments about picky eaters and even the most

400g chicken livers

memorable meals he’s enjoyed around the world. Each chapter is driven

200g fine green beans

by stories he’s written, all of which revolve around what Goffe-Wood finds

20g rocket leaves

most important as a cook.

30ml red wine vinegar

It’s part cookbook and part memoir but is packed with funny tales told with typical Goffe-Wood candour and humour.

Published by Quivertree and beautifully photographed by Craig Fraser, A Life Digested is not just a book to occupy space on a book shelf or to flip through when looking for a recipe, it’s a book to savour and digest, slowly, over a glass of wine or two.

50 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

90ml extra virgin olive oil 4 eggs 1Tbsp white wine vinegar 20g chives

Chef’s story

METHOD: Boil the potatoes until just done, then halve them. Heat a little oil in a large frying pan. When it’s hot, add diced bacon and cook until it begins to colour. Add the potatoes and when they begin to colour, season the livers and add them to the pan. Fry them for about 5 minutes until cooked – firm but still pink inside. Remove the pan from the heat.

Blanch the beans in boiling water, then mix them with the rocket and arrange in the middle of four plates.

Spoon the warm ingredients from the pan on top of the greens.

Deglaze the pan with the red wine vinegar, add the extra virgin olive oil to the pan and then pour this warm dressing over the salad on each plate. Poach the eggs in simmering water with a touch of white wine vinegar.

Remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and place on top of the salad. Garnish with finely chopped chives and serve immediately.

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

51

Book Giveaway

Roast Rack of Lamb with Baked Aubergine, Tomato & Basil Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

aubergines

9 ripe plum

100ml extra virgin

tomatoes

olive oil

100g unsalted

20g basil leaves

butter

150ml cream

2 cloves garlic

100g Parmesan

salt and pepper

1.2 kg lamb rack

3 large

60g rocket

METHOD: Blanch the tomatoes for 10 seconds in furiously boiling water. Peel and roughly chop them, then sauté the tomatoes in

Available GO TO ‘IN THE BASKET’ at TOPS at ON FOR YOUR FULL SPARPG71 and SPAR stores GROCERY LIST

butter for approximately 5 minutes until they begin to break down and form a Call the saucy consistency. Remove from the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141

heat, add finely chopped garlic and season. Slice the aubergine into thin

about 15 minutes, until the cream starts to brown around the edges of the bowls.

Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Roast in a hot oven (200°C) until

rounds. Sauté them in a separate large

medium, approximately 15 minutes, depending on the size of the rack.

frying pan, using the olive oil for 5

Remove from the oven and leave the lamb to rest for

minutes or until cooked through and

5 minutes. Slice the lamb and divide onto six plates.

golden brown. Remove from the pan

Serve each portion with baked aubergine,

and drain on kitchen paper.

garnished with a little rocket.

Spoon the cooked tomato into six

The beauty of this dish is that the

ceramic ovenproof bowls. Arrange

aubergine tastes almost as meaty as

slices of aubergine on top. Tear up the

the lamb, and the tomato gives

basil, add it to the cream and pour this

just enough acidity to ensure the

over the aubergine.

dish is not overly fatty.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan, then bake in a moderate oven (180°C) for 52 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Chef’s story

Dark Chocolate Mousse Serves 8

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

800g dark chocolate

Melt the chocolate over a double

6 eggs, separated

boiler. Cook the egg yolks, orange

250ml orange juice 200g sugar

juice, sugar and brandy over a separate double boiler, whisking

2 tots brandy

continuously until light and fluffy. Soak

3 leaves gelatine

the gelatine in cold water to soften it,

500ml cream

then add to the egg mixture while it’s still cooking so the gelatine dissolves completely.

Add the chocolate to the egg mixture and allow to cool. Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites, then the whipped cream. Spoon servings of mousse into bowls or glasses and allow 3 to 4 hours to set in the fridge.

enter now!

To qualify, send in a postcard or e-mail clearly marked Cheers Book Giveaway and containing your name, ID number, physical address (not a PO Box please!) along with a contact telephone number to qualify for the lucky draw. Entry deadline is Friday 14th August 2015.

The address to send it to is cheers@cheersmag.co.za or Cheers, PO Box 259, Rondebosch 7701.

win

Stand a chance to receive one of two copies of a life digested book SEE T&C’S ON PG 2

Double your chance of winning!

Go to www.facebook.com/ CheersMag and LIKE the Cheers Facebook page.

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

53

TOP Nosh Silwood kitchen

Global soups Soup seems simple, right? Not so! It varies from crystal clear consommé, to spicy Asian versions packed with noodles, hearty beef broths rich with barley and beans all the way through to purple borscht or chunky creamy chowders, packed with seafood and potatoes. Photography by Ashlee Attwood.

W

hile they can be served hot or cold, with cream, croutons, grated cheese or a sprinkling of chives, one thing soups do is nourish not just the body but the soul too, with comfort and caring.

Traditions vary from country to country. In the Far East where soup is almost a daily part of

the meal they tend to be lighter, frequently with fish stock and vegetables forming the base. In

Thailand and elsewhere, a sour note in the form of lime, lemongrass and lemon is added.

Eastern Europeans use beetroot, potatoes and noodles or dumplings to bulk up soup, providing energy in the form of carbohydrate for the long, cold winters.

Two soups associated with the French are the traditional onion soup and vichyssoise, the leek, potato, onion and cream soup which is often served cold – as is gazpacho, that melange of tomatoes and peppers livened up with the lip-smacking tang of sherry vinegar.

And what about the rib-sticking qualities of clam chowder, a staple of New England in America or the slightly smoky sweet appeal of a good Dutch pea and ham soup!

With the temperature dropping and frost crisping the lawn every night, there’s nothing nicer than a steaming bowl of soup to add a little warmth!

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

55

TOP Nosh

INGREDIENTS: 1 onion, finely chopped 20ml oil 15ml medium curry powder 500ml frozen peas 750ml crisp lettuce, shredded

d n a Pea soup e c u t t le h a hint wit f chilli o

125ml cream

’ SKET E BA R FULL H T N U le ‘I abO R YO vailT S at 1 FO GAaO 7 t TOP aG d n PARPtores Y LIST OSPN s R S AROCE GR

Garnish: Pinch dried chilli flakes pea shoots or micro herbs

e Call thTLINE HO TOPS0 313 141 6 8 0

METHOD:

Sauté the onions in oil until soft, add the curry powder and sauté for a further 30 seconds.

Add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer. Add the peas and lettuce and simmer for 3 minutes before pouring in the cream and removing from the heat.

Place the mixture in a blender and blend until smooth.

Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Place soup in warmed bowls, sprinkle a little dried chilli over and garnish with pea shoots or micro herbs.

56 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

Silwood kitchen INGREDIENTS: Thai chicken stock: 500g chicken bones 2 litres water 15ml fresh ginger, peeled and chopped 50ml fresh coriander ½ onion, sliced 3 kaffir lime leaves

Tom i a G Yam, light, hot.

ar up A cle r Thai so s 4 e sou Serv and

Soup: 200g chicken breast or thigh meat 1.2 litres Thai chicken stock 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced 2½cm piece lemon grass, white part, bruised 1-2 red chilli, deseeded and halved 2 lime leaves 15ml fish sauce 5ml sugar juice of one lime 100g white mushrooms, halved 1 medium tomato, deseeded and diced 1 spring onion, sliced at an angle

METHOD: Thai chicken stock: Place all ingredients in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer for 2 hours then strain. Reduce to 1.2 litres. (This stock can be kept in the fridge for 2-3 days or frozen for up to 3 months.)

Soup: Place the chicken, stock, garlic, lemon grass, chilli, lime leaves and fish sauce into a saucepan, bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Remove the chicken, shred with a fork and set aside.

Add the mushrooms and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the shredded chicken, tomatoes, spring onions and a little lime juice, simmer for 2-3 minutes.

Add fish sauce to taste and finish with a little more lime juice.

To serve: Garnish with coriander leaves and serve piping hot.

15ml coriander leave

TOP Nosh

Tusc

a

nB

e a n So up METHOD: Soup: Sweat onions in oil. When almost soft,

INGREDIENTS: 2 tins chopped Italian tomatoes 2 litres chicken or veg stock 1 tin cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 tin chickpeas, drained and rinsed 1 tin borlotti beans, drained and rinsed 180ml Savoy cabbage, finely sliced 2 onions, chopped 25ml oil 4 stalks celery, chopped 3 sprigs rosemary, chopped

add celery, carrots, garlic, rosemary, paprika and smoked paprika. Continue cooking until vegetables are soft but not coloured.

Add the tinned tomatoes and stock and simmer for 20-30 minutes.

Finally, add the drained beans and cabbage and simmer for another 8 minutes.

Season to taste.

To serve: Serve piping hot topped with a spoonful of basil pesto.

3 carrots, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 5ml smoked paprika 5ml paprika 50ml basil pesto

These delicious recipes were prepared and cooked by chef Hayley New, a second year student at Silwood Kitchen in Cape Town. www.silwood.co.za

Blogspot

Homely & hearty

Energy levels drop along with the russet leaves from the trees. But there’s a lot to be said for slowing down and conserving energy.

T

hings always seem to quieten

time together and good conversation.

down over winter as we go into

Even if it is largely about dinosaurs and

hibernation mode, and what a

fairy princesses!

perfect time to indulge in some slow

In this issue I’ve chosen some of my

cooking! As temperatures plummet and

favourite hearty winter dishes that I

cold fronts set in I can’t imagine a better

hope you’ll enjoy with your family and

place to be than in my kitchen cooking

friends. First up is a Moroccan inspired

up a storm. Dare I say it – I even look

slow-cooked beef stew served with

forward to the washing up to help warm

lightly spiced flatbreads to help scoop

me up!

up all that lovely gravy. (If you are lucky

When time allows, my family and I

enough to have a gas stove this recipe

love to spend a weekend afternoon –

is also load shedding friendly!) Apple

INGREDIENTS:

Saturday or Sunday – in the kitchen

crumble is an absolute classic and I

500g beef shin

1 tsp star anise

preparing dinner together. Particularly

hope you like my version with its crunchy

3 Tblsp flour

2 Tblsp white wine

when the rain is pouring down outside

oat crumble and easy homemade

2 tsp ground cumin

vinegar

and the little ones need to be

vanilla custard. If you do not have the

salt and pepper

500ml beef stock

entertained! We’ve spent many

luxury of spending a long time in the

1 Tblsp sunflower oil

Pinch of chilli flakes

afternoons kneading pizza dough,

kitchen, the apple filling and the custard

1 onion, finely

(optional)

rolling out sheets of pasta and shaping

can be made a few hours, or even the

chopped

1 Tblsp finely

meatballs. What a pleasure to have a

day before and stored in the fridge until

3 Tblsp finely

chopped parsley

break from the usual crazy rush, to just

needed.

chopped celery

small handful of

3 medium carrots,

fresh coriander,

peeled and cut

roughly chopped

enjoy the preparation process, quality

Keep warm and happy cooking!

Teresa Ulyate is the writer of Cupcakesandcouscous.blogspot.com and holds the bragging rights as the winner of Two Oceans’ Simple Snacking Challenge 2013.

Cupcakesandcouscous.blogspot.com

60 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

into 1cm slices

winter warmers

Moroccan beef with spiced flatbreads serves 3-4

For the flatbreads (makes 6):

constantly. Add the white wine vinegar,

butter. Add most of the water and mix

2 cups plain flour

cover the pot and leave to cook over

to combine. Continue adding water

1/2 tsp ground cumin

a low heat for 5 minutes. Add the beef

until the dough starts coming together,

1/2 tsp fine salt

stock and chilli flakes to the pot and stir

then tip onto a work surface and knead

1 tsp baking powder

well. Replace the lid and cook over a

for 5 minutes until you have a soft

60g butter

gentle heat for 1 - 1.5 hours (stirring

dough. Place the dough back in the

210ml warm water

every 20 minutes or so) until the beef is

mixing bowl, cover with a tea towel and

very tender. Remove the star anise

allow to stand for 30 minutes. Divide the

METHOD:

pieces from the beef stew. Stir in the

dough into six equal pieces. Roll each

Cut the beef shin into 2-3cm cubes.

chopped parsley and coriander. Allow

piece into a ball. Dust your work surface

Combine the flour and cumin with a

to simmer for a further 5 minutes with

with a little flour, then roll each ball into

pinch of salt and a good grinding of

the lid off. Season the beef with salt

a circle about 2-3mm thick. Heat a dry

black pepper, then toss the beef in this

and pepper. Dish onto warmed

griddle pan over a medium to high

mixture and set aside. Heat the

plates, top with some parsley or

heat. Place the flatbread in the pan

sunflower oil in a large saucepan over

coriander leaves and serve with freshly

and cook for 1.5 minutes. Flip the

a medium heat. Add the onion, celery

made flatbreads.

flatbread over and cook the other side for a further 1.5 minutes or until it starts to

and carrots and fry for 2 minutes. Add the star anise pieces and cook for a

To make the flatbreads:

char and puff up. Repeat with the

further minute. Add the beef to the

Sift the flour, cumin, salt and baking

remaining flatbreads.

pan and brown for 3 minutes stirring

powder into a bowl and rub in the Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

61

Blogspot

Oaty apple & raisin crumble with vanilla custard

METHOD: Peel and core the apples, and cut into chunks. Melt the butter in a medium sized pot and add the apple. Toss to coat in the butter then cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the

serves 6

raisins, caramel sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and stir well. Cook for a further 10-12 minutes, stirring regularly, until the apple chunks are soft but still have some bite. Remove from the heat and set aside. Preheat your oven to 190°C and start preparing the crumble topping. Place the flour, caramel sugar, oats and butter together in a bowl. Use your fingertips to rub the ingredients together. The mixture will be dry at first, but continue to rub until the butter coats the dry ingredients and the mixture starts to clump together. Divide the cooked apple between six small ramekins. Do the same with the crumble mixture, sprinkling on top of the apple. Place the ramekins on a tray and bake for 25-30 minutes until the crumble is golden. To prepare the custard: whisk the egg yolks and castor sugar together until creamy. Whisk in the flour. Place the milk in a saucepan

INGREDIENTS:

Crumble:

over a medium heat and heat just until

1kg apples

90g flour

boiling point. Remove from the heat

100g butter

60g caramel sugar

and carefully add half of the milk to the

30g oats

egg mixture while whisking

75g butter, at room

continuously. Then add the egg-milk

temperature

mixture back into the saucepan with

60ml (1/4 cup) raisins 60ml (1/4 cup) caramel sugar 1 tsp cinnamon

the remaining milk and heat slowly

1/4 tsp nutmeg

GO TO ‘IN THE BASKET’ ON PG71 FOR YOUR FULL GROCERY LIST 62 www.topsatspar.co.za

Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141 Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Vanilla custard:

while whisking. Continue to cook until

2 egg yolks

the custard has thickened. Stir in the

40g castor sugar

vanilla paste then transfer to a warm

2 Tblsp flour

jug. Allow the cooked apple crumbles

300ml milk

to stand for a few minutes before

Available 1/2 tsp at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores

vanilla paste

serving with fresh vanilla custard.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY CMY

K

Tuisnywerheid

Winterlekkerny

LE CREUSET 31CM TAGINE/WWW.LECREUSET.CO.ZA

Sonja Herholdt was die land se beeldskone blondinetjie met die goue stem – veral toe sy oor waterblommetjies gesing het .

“W

aterblommetjies in die Boland, waterblommetjies in die Kaap…”

Ja, blomme begin hier vroeg winter op die damme saampak. Ding is, waterblomme is soos wyn, en jy moet weet wanneer hy reg is.

Die wonderlike ding van ’n waterblombredie is dat dit, soos die koolbredie, erg

eenvoudig is. Geen eeue se voorbereiding van aftreksels en vreemdklinkende

Vir ’n normale mens, honger gemaak deur die vars

Bolandse lug, verg die resep

vir ses minstens een kilogram blomme. Vir diegene wat hul

blomme in ’n supermarket koop en nie self gaan pluk nie, beteken dit twee pakkies van 500gram elk.

Sit die blomme in ’n groot kom water.

eksotiese speserye nie. Dis asof die eenvoud wat die waterblom vra ook ter wille

Inspekteer elkeen om seker te maak

van die aardse, inherente geure van die ander bestanddele is.

dat verskuilde paddavissies of koker-

Daar is klomp resepte vir waterblombredie wat min of meer dieselfde pad na

naaldneste nie tussen die blomme is

boerekos-nirvana volg. Die een probleem wat ek egter het, is die hoeveelheid

nie. Vreemde voorwerpe word

waterblomme wat sommige resepte-skrywers reken benodig word om ’n gawe

afgespoel. As die water na dese vuil is,

skepsel aan elke persoon te bied.

vervang met skoon vars water en gooi

Die ander is dat min resepte die waterblomtruuk uitlap. Maar voor daar by die truuk uitgekom word, begin regmaak vir ses porsies waterblombredie.

64 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

twee eetlepels sout hierby. Roer deur tot die sout opgelos is.

Emile Joubert Ná een uur kan die soutwater

daardie deksel op sy pot en plaas als in

afgegooi en die blomme met vars

’n oond van 180 tot 200°C. Los vir

water afgespoel word.

sowat anderhalfuur.

Neem jou swaarboompot, beblerts

BESTANDDELE

die bodem met kookolie en braai twee

1kg waterblommetjies (self gepluk)

opgekapte uie totdat hulle deurskynend is. Verwyder uit die pot.

of x2 500g pakkies waterblommetjies (by die supermark gekoop) 2Tbls sout

Nou’t mens 1,5kg lamsvleis nodig.

250ml kookolie

Die mag baie klink vir ses mense, maar

2 uie

gooi lam in ’n pot en die vleis krimp

1,5kg lamsvleis 1 bottel droë witwyn

vinniger as ’n minister se

sout en peper

kredietkaartlimiet by die Tokio

2 lourieblare

Motorskou.

Ek gebruik ’n kombinasie van rib en

VIR DIE SURING

skywe lamsnek, met die rib in blokke so

2 suurlemoene

groot soos ’n vuurhoutjieboks gesny.

6 aartappels

Gaan nou terug na daardie

hande van die vleis in die pot. En dis

die soutwater van jou blomme af.

Wanneer die gaar, bruin vleis uit die oond kom, word die aartappels bygevoeg en die pot terug in die oond geplaas. Die rede hiervoor is dat aartappels effe langer neem om sag te kook as wat jou blomme doen.

Sowat 20 minute later word die pot weer uitgehaal, en nou word die nat groen blomme in hul volle glorie in die pot geplaas. Moenie die pot deurroer nie. Sit die deksel op en die hele storie terug in jou oond.

OM TE DIEN:

geoliede pot waarin die uie gebraai is.

Draai die hitte op. Gooi twee bak

Sny ses aartappels in kwarte. Gooi

wit rys en beetslaai Droë Chenin Blanc of Pinotage

waar die truuk inkom.

Jou blomme gaan binne 30 tot 40 minute gaar gekook wees. Langer as dit, en hulle begin erg wegkook in genoemde groen papsel. Jou

Waterblombredie baat by die geur

meesterstuk is reg wanneer die blom

van vleis wat effe geskroei is. Waar ’n

nog sy fatsoen behou, maar maklik met

stuk geskroeide vleis ’n tamatiebredie

’n tafelmes middeldeur gesny word.

kan verniel, verleen die brandgeur ’n

Een baie belangrike stap bly oor en

lieflike dimensie aan die blomme.

dit is om te sorg dat die blomme

So, braai daardie vleis in die warm pot. Tot so ‘n bietjie verby die bruin

blootgestel word aan die geur van Die pot is nou koeler. Plaas die

daardie skaapvleis en sy vet sousie.

waaraan mens gewoond is. As jy die

gebraaide uie en vleis terug in die pot.

Gee die hele pot dus ’n roer of twee

reuk van aangebrande vleis begin ruik,

Voeg sout en peper by. Twee

sodat die blomme met skaap se kind

gee nog so 30 sekondes en haal dan

lourierblare. Twee glase droë witwyn.

kennis kan maak.

die vleis uit.

Bedien met witrys en beetslaai, soos

Suring

wat tradisie dit betaam. Met ’n droë

’n bietjie olie in voordat die res van die

Die tradisionele geursel wat nou bykom

Chenin Blanc of Pinotage.

vleis gebraai word. Hierdie tweede,

is suring, daardie klein geelblommetjies

derde braaisel kan maar gebraai word

wat aan lang stingels in die nat

totdat dit gewoon bruin is.

winterveld groei. As die stele

Die pot is swart gebrand, so gooi nog

Met die vleis klaar gebraai, haal dit

beskikbaar is, kap ’n klomp

uit die pot en gooi ’n skeut droë witwyn

suringstingels op – so ’n halwe koppie

in die yster, draai die plaat af en roer

vol – en voeg by jou bredie saam met

die boom van die pot om die

die sap van een suurlemoen.

aangebrande stukke vet en vleis los te maak. (Die Franse noem dit “déglacer”…)

As suring nie beskikbaar is nie, is die sap van twee suurlemoene doodreg.

Een hap en jy sing ook van die Boland – nes Sonja!

Writer and PR guy Emile Joubert was a finalist in the Men’s Health Braai King competition, uniquely qualifying him for this column.

Roer als deur die vleis en uie, sit Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

65

etiquette

Table talk

It is said that you can tell much about a person by their actions. With the food culture exploding worldwide, Fiona McDonald examines the social nuances which accompany eating.

I

t was nearly impossible: First an attack from behind was attempted. Then one from the right and yet a third with a reverse grip from the left. Still it resisted!

Finally, that last morsel was chased up the side of the pudding bowl, the plate

tilted decorously at an opposing angle and the consequent back flip onto the spoon meant the last bite made the successful transition into my mouth.

Phew! Never has the final speck of pudding put up so staunch a resistance… but

what made it worse was the lack of a dessert fork. Had that single item of cutlery graced the table, there never would have been a battle in the first place.

And it’s not a problem I’m alone in experiencing at the modern table. A recent

episode of Masterchef Australia saw judges George Calombaris and Matt Preston sampling one of the contestant’s dishes – and having to surreptitiously use a finger of their left hand to provide a bit of counter pressure to get a piece of food onto the utensil.

We all make judgements about people: instantaneous ones from the way they dress and present themselves – to how they speak or, more importantly, eat. Much of that is evolutionary: when still wearing skins and living in caves, we needed to assess in the blink of an eye whether a stranger was friend or foe and whether to extend a hand and grunt in welcome or pick up a stout club to dispatch them.

The quote: “manners maketh man” is attributed to William of Wykeham (1324 - 1404) and serves as the motto of both New College, Oxford, and Winchester College. And while it is often taken to mean that social graces set people apart, a second, less obvious, connotation is that of character – the substance of a person rather than their proficiency with etiquette.

Different times My grandmother grew up in a different, very colonial, time – when people still dressed for dinner and manners were important. She’s responsible for me knowing what the fork nestled next to the dessert spoon is for – and for almost 66 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19

social conventions going into meltdown when it’s not there

And then there’s the soup plate tilt

and a less-than-perfectly poached pear

– towards or away? Well, in practical

can’t be wrestled into submission!

terms, tilting it toward you could result

Although people are seldom given to

in a bowl of piping hot soup ending up

Golden rules Here are some tips on the solid rules of thumb which still apply:

hosting “formal” dinner parties along

all over your shirt front or lap should

the lines of a Downton Abbey drama,

something untoward happen… so

hostess indicates to do so by taking

there’s still a lot to be said for providing

away from you it is! You could also cop

up their own cutlery.

the right equipment to do the job – or

out and not use a soup plate and opt

planning your menu so that no issues of

instead for a soup bowl, thus solving

etiquette arise. (Chocolate mousse, for

the dilemma totally.

example, doesn’t require a dessert fork – but a poached pear does.)

Provision of cutlery aside, there are

Foreign relations

Don’t start until the host or

Don’t liberally season your plate with salt and pepper before tasting it.

Rather ask for items to be passed to you – such as the salt and pepper cellars – than

Customs and table manners vary

stretching across someone else

still issues which arise at the table.

according to nationality – and the type

or the table.

When does one start eating: when the

of food. If eating in India or various

plate is placed in front of you – or do

Middle Eastern countries where food is

you wait for the host or hostess to pick

placed on the communal table and

up their knife and fork signalling the

one helps oneself, it’s always the right

Customs and table manners vary according to nationality – and the type of food.

hand which is used – NEVER the left.

And in India, the food should never make contact with the palm of the hand – only ever the fingertips.

Similarly in China and the Far East

or to lick your knife.

Rather take a hunk or curl of butter from the butter dish and place it on your side plate to smear on your bread. Don’t butter directly from the dish!

And on the issue of bread, break a roll with your hands rather than cutting it with a knife.

chopsticks to select a piece of food

for that purpose. Other chopstick “no-no’s” include playing with them, separating them and holding one in

Remember when daunted by an array of cutlery – eat from the outside in and if in doubt, hold back for a second or two and see what utensil your host or hostess is using and take your lead from them.

To signal that you have

each hand or spearing food with them.

finished, place your knife and fork

Even standing them upright in a bowl of

(or fork and spoon) together with

thought – one which is rooted in

noodles or rice, for example, is unseemly

tradition that it’s only polite to wait for

since it evokes images of incense sticks

everyone to have their food and either

which are used at funerals!

the host or most senior person at table

either talk with a mouthful of food

considered rude to use your own

are usually spoons or utensils provided

Apparently there are two schools of

It’s socially unacceptable to

where chopsticks are used, it is

from a communal bowl or plate. There

green light for everyone to tuck in?

Tip your soup plate away from you.

And in France, for example, looking

to indicate that it’s OK to start eating.

around for a bread plate at the left of

Yet the new “modern” rule is that one

your place setting is futile. Bread is

should start immediately, while the

placed directly on the table cloth.

food is still fresh and hot. Not enjoying it

Similarly, you hang on to your knife and

at its best would be insulting to the host

fork between multiple courses – a little

who has slaved over a stove to present

rest is often provided for them as part

it for your enjoyment.

of the setting.

the tines or prongs of the fork facing upward at the six o’ clock position on the plate. Similarly, if you haven’t yet finished and are still enjoying the conversation or food, place them noticeably apart.

These are all subtle signals which our caveman ancestors would be happy to see us both giving off and interpreting, making the reading of body language and assessment of personality so much easier.

Jul | Aug 2015 Vol 19 www.topsatspar.co.za

67

what to look out for next issue Summertime…

And the living means Sauvignon Blanc Olives: Oiled, stuffed and preserved Social media: what’s polite and what’s not brought to you by

www.topsatspar.co.za

Congratulations to last issue’s winner

y, Moodle y a ij V . o ert n Mrs al, Alb d s t e Alb

enjoy your spoils!

68 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Two Oceans wines

Purchase any 2 bottles of Two Oceans wines from your local TOPS at SPAR and stand a chance to win one of five nesting chairs to the value of R6 000 each

wi n

SH Go AR to Et w he ww C . yo hee face ur rs bo ch Fa ok an ceb .co Send an email to cheers@cheersmag.co.za with the ce m o of ok /Ch wi pa ee subject line “Cheers Two Oceans Giveaway” containing: nn ge rs Ma in • Your name, contact telephone number & ID number • Physical address & g! do g, (not a P.O. Box please!) • The TOPS at SPAR store at which you made your ub le purchase and the till slip number. SEE T&C’S ON PG 2

How to enter

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.

Drink Responsibly.

Call the TOPS HOTLINE 0860 313 141

Grocery list TOPS at SPAR

Available at TOPS at SPAR and SPAR stores

Your complete list of ingredients for all the recipes in this issue.

Groceries

Available from TOPS at SPAR Liquor 50ml Amarula Cream 25ml vodka 50ml brandy 1 bottle dry white wine

Available from SPAR Dried Spices/Herbs/Stock 15ml ground cumin 5ml star anise 1 tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg 15ml medium curry powder 5ml smoked paprika 5ml paprika 2 bay leaves 500ml beef stock

2 red chillies

½ tsp fine salt

1 spring onion

5ml baking powder

180ml Savoy cabbage

120g caramel sugar

750ml crisp lettuce

30g oats

7 onions

40g castor sugar

1 bunch of celery

215g sugar

6 medium carrots

60ml (¼ cup) raisins

200g new potatoes

½ tsp vanilla paste

200g fine green beans

800g dark chocolate

10 ripe plum tomatoes

3 leaves gelatine

3 large aubergines 1kg waterblommetjies 6 potatoes 100g white mushrooms 1kg apples 2 lemons 1 lime

Cans/Jars/Bottles

Dairy 50ml chocolate mousse 235g butter 100g unsalted butter 12 eggs 300ml milk 775ml cream 100g Parmesan

1.2ℓ Thai chicken stock

285ml sunflower oil

2ℓ chicken or veg stock

45ml white wine vinegar

500g beef shin

30ml red wine vinegar

100g streaky bacon

190ml extra virgin olive oil

1.2 kg lamb rack

15ml fish sauce

1,5kg stewing lamb meat

2 tins chopped Italian tomatoes

500g chicken bones

1 tin cannellini beans

200g chicken breast or thigh meat

1 tin chickpeas

400g chicken livers

Fresh Fruit/Veg/Herbs/Spices 15ml parsley 1 bunch of coriander 20g chives 6 cloves garlic 20g basil leaves 80g rocket 3 sprigs rosemary 15ml fresh ginger 5 lime leaves 2½cm piece lemon grass

1 tin borlotti beans 50ml basil pesto 250ml orange juice

Meat/Fish/Poultry

Frozen goods 500ml frozen peas

Baking/Dry goods 670ml plain flour

All ‘in the basket’ items are available at your nearest TOPS at SPAR and SPAR outlets. See www.topsatspar.co.za and www.spar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

www.topsatspar.co.za 71

Loopdop Gerrit Rautenbach

Die groot gat van Kimberley Daar het baie juwele uit Kimberley gekom, maar die storie van oom Balie skitter steeds.

H

Op ’n dag is Janneman saam met sy ma in die handelshuis. Sy het klaar gekoop,

uitgehaal, Gert het betaal en met ’n

maar gesels nog so oor die een en die

“dankie oom” uitgewarrel.

ander met oom Balie. Sy sien byvoorbeeld

al steunend die leer bestyg en die bottel

nie meer op die deurgevatte toonbank

gebêre. Skaars onder op die grond en lid

staan nie en vra uit. Oom Balie verduidelik

nommer twee, Stefan skarrel in.

dat hy dit maar op die boonste rak gesit het en vervang het met die bottel ronde appelkooslekkers wat deesdae so gewild is. G’n mens vra meer vir zoute drop nie.

Dis net daar waar Janneman ’n plan kry.

maar hier in die vroeë 1950’s het hy afgetree en ’n handelshuis in Carringtonstraat gekoop.

Kyk, oom Balie was ’n mens-mens en in sy element agter die toonbank van die handelshuis. Hy het als van die dorpmense en hulle dinge geweet. Maar hy het mooi gewerk met sy inligting. Daarom het almal mooi gewerk met hom. Hulle het geweet

Oom Balie kyk op na die bottel, maar steunend klim hy. Hier na die vierde lid in en uit is met sy een pennie se drop, het

pelle saamgeroep. Koppe bymekaar

onder te hou. Dis daar waar Janneman

verduidelik hy die plan en daar gaat hulle

ingestap kom.

op ’n stofstreep handelshuis se rigting. Hulle

ry 44-gelling dromme by die garage.

het vir jare geldsake bedryf vir De Beers,

oom Balie.”

oom Balie besluit om maar eers die bottel

nie. Die ene wat die Ingilsman

Nee die storie gaan oor Oom Balie. Hy

“Een pennie se zoute drop, asseblief

Hy en sy ma is huis toe en hy’t sy bende

vat skuiling skuins oorkant die pad agter die

wat nou omgeval het daar in die

Oom Balie het die bottel toegemaak en

dat die groot glasbottel met zoute drop

ierdie storie gaan nie oor dáái gat

Kaap laat grou het.

blad weer af. Hy het vier stukke drop

Janneman het gereken hy moenie

“A, Janneman, ek reken jy wil seker ook ’n pennie se drop hê?”

“Nee oom Balie.”

Dankbaar pak oom Balie die leer aan,

eerste gaan nie, want hy was nou net

bêre vir oulaas die bottel en trap

daar. Dus slentervoet Gert eerste oor die

versigtig af.

G’n mens vra meer vir zoute drop nie. pad en by die oop dubbeldeure in.

“More Gert, kan ek help?” vra oom Balie vriendelik.

“Nou wat kan ek vir jou kry, Janneman?” vra hy terwyl hy die sweet afvee.

“Twee pennies se drop, asseblief oom!”

Elke keer wat oom Bale dié storie klaar vertel het, het hy opgekyk en gelag: “So nou weet julle wie is die groot gat van Kimberley ...”

“Een pennie se zoute drop, asseblief oom Balie.”

Vriendelike oom Balie het

dat as jy aan oom Balie se verkeerde kant

niksvermoedend geglimlag en die ou

kom, kan hy ’n paar dinge wat liefs in die

lendelam leer bestyg. Nou kyk, oom Balie

kas moes bly, uitgooi in die openbaar.

kon ’n leer goed vastrap. Verstaan mooi,

Maar dit was so met die grootmense; die

hy was nou nie byvoorbeeld oom Riet nie.

kinders het hulle nie daaraan gesteur nie.

Al krakend is hy op en bottel onder die

Monument TOPS at SPAR

Address: Cnr Memorial & McDougal Road, Kimberley Tel: (053) 831 5523, Fax: (053) 832 3104 Email: trevennacity@intekom.co.za Business Hours: TOPS at SPAR Mon - Fri: 08h00 - 20h00, Sat: 08h00 - 17h00 & Sun: Closed.

72 www.topsatspar.co.za

Jul|Aug 2015 Vol 19

Freelance writer Gerrit Rautenbach is a man who knows how to spin a yarn, having been the editor of Mooiloop and Wegbreek magazines.