Sette Cama: Fly Fishing in the Heart of Africa

Sette Cama:

Fly Fishing in the Heart of Africa

Where the massive Ndogo Lagoon meets the Atlantic Ocean, lies a fly-fishing paradise like no other – Sette Cama, Gabon. This spectacular destination offers anglers an unparalleled opportunity to pursue numerous saltwater species, including some of the world’s largest tarpon, all while immersing themselves in its richness of wildlife, culture, and community spirit.

By EMILY RODGER // Photos by ALEXIS PAGEAU

The sweeping vistas of untouched coastline that Sette Cama is known for, where pristine sand and tide flats abut against the lush rainforest and its awe-inspiring inhabitants, create celestial spectacles with every sunrise and -set. The backdrop of the sun’s rays painting the sky with hues of pink and orange adds to the visual appeal. There’s no question that it’s visually stunning. But the magic of the location extends beyond its aesthetics. Sette Cama is a tarpon haven, with a diverse fishery teeming with a variety of species. The long fin jack, red snapper, and African threadfin are just a few of the many treasures lurking beneath the surface, eager to take a fly. Every fishing session feels like an entirely new adventure, as you never know what the magic of the water will reveal.

Africa is a destination I’ve yearned to visit since childhood, particularly for a safari. I’ve dreamt of seeing elephants in their natural habitat and embracing my inner Dian Fossey by going on a gorilla trek. Despite traveling to numerous destinations worldwide, my dreams of Africa had yet to materialize.

I thought planning a trip to Africa would be too logistically difficult, and the timing never seemed right. In hindsight, I’m glad it didn’t happen until now. Not only did I experience Africa exactly as I had envisioned, including encounters with elephants and gorillas, but I also experienced it through my passion for fly fishing.

“What a gift to combine the sport I love with a lifelong dream!”

What a gift to combine the sport I love with a lifelong dream! My perceptions of the logistics of planning this trip had held me back from coming over to this beautiful continent. It was ultimately the incredible team at African Waters that made this dream seamlessly come true –the logistics were all taken care of by the team, waiting with open arms for anglers and adventures like myself to come and experience it.

A wild experience

Casting my line on the beach and suddenly realizing elephants were moving silently through the foliage behind me is a moment that will forever stand out as a highlight in my life.

It was a moment where memories of the elephant stuffed animal gifted to me by my grandmother at the age of two flooded my mind. That stuffed animal still remains in my home 38 years later, a symbol of the dreams I held as a child of traveling the world and encountering wild animals. Dreams that, for so long, felt unattainable, yet here I was, finally living them.

Surfing hippos

Amidst all these wonders, there was yet another spectacle waiting to be witnessed - the surfing hippos. I had heard about surfing hippos while watching the documentary series Our Greatest National Parks and knew that it would be worth postponing a morning fishing session for the chance of trying to find them. Rising before sunrise with anticipation fuelling my excitement, my friend Alexis and I began our beach hike guided by Ewan and the dim light of dawn.

After trekking 8 km along the beach, we reached the area where Ewan thought they would be. As the first rays of sunlight pierced through the horizon, casting a golden glow over the landscape, I beheld a sight that few are fortunate enough to witness.

There, amidst the rolling waves, was a majestic hippo, its massive form gracefully riding the surf with unexpected ease. It was a surreal moment, witnessing this mighty creature embracing the ocean waves with uninhibited joy.

That moment was a reminder of the endless wonders that await those who dare to venture off the beaten path and embrace the beauty of the natural world. As I sat there, captivated by the sight before me, I knew that this was a memory that would stay with me forever, a testament to the magic of Sette Cama and the incredible experiences it has to offer.

Passionate guides

But amidst all these wonders, there was yet another spectacle waiting to be witnessed - the continued dedication and expertise of the guides. Yes, they were certainly knowledgeable incredibly guides, extremely familiar with the region and its fish, and I anticipated being well served by them. But what really stood out to me was the depth of their passion and dedication, and the pivotal role they played in shaping my Sette Cama experience. Ewan and Mike, two of the hardest-working guides you’ll ever encounter, went above and beyond to ensure every moment was memorable, becoming companions on this adventure.

Mike, with his infectious laughter and energy, quickly became more than just a fly-fishing guide, as I jokingly called him my “emotional support guide.”

His enthusiasm for fishing and tarpon was contagious, and his knack for finding the best spots made each excursion unforgettable. We shared countless laughs and stories, forming a camaraderie that added an ex-

tra layer of enjoyment to every fishing session.

Similarly, Ewan’s calm demeanour and wealth of knowledge about the local wildlife and ecosystem enriched my experience beyond measure. He not only guided us to the surfing hippos and the best fishing spots but also shared fascinating insights into the natural wonders of Sette Cama and shared the thrill and hard work of reeling in a bull shark with Alexis and me. Ewan’s passion for guiding and for the environment was palpable.

Together, Mike and Ewan created an atmosphere of camaraderie and fun that made every day at Sette Cama truly special. Their dedication to ensuring our enjoyment, both on and off the water, was evident in every interaction. Whether it was swapping fishing stories over dinner or sharing a laugh during a full day of casting, their presence added immeasurable value to my time at Sette Cama – a testament to the light-hearted bond formed amidst the pursuit of piscatorial dreams.

It didn’t take me long to notice that this community spirit I witnessed is authentic and long-lasting, extending far beyond the staff and guests at the lodge. What sets Sette Cama apart isn’t just the exceptional fishing – it’s the deep-rooted connection between the camp and the local community. The mutual respect between the lodge and the locals is palpable, creating an atmosphere of genuine collaboration and shared appreciation for the pristine environment they call home.

The camp’s commitment to community involvement is evident in every aspect of the experience. The locals actively participate, showcasing their love for the camp and its guests. It’s heartening to witness the seamless integration of the camp into the local culture, fostering a sense of unity and shared responsibility for preserving the natural beauty that surrounds them.

Fishing in the wee hours of day

When you fish in Sette Cama, you let the ebb and flow of the Atlantic tides guide you. They call the shots, not the clock. Many anglers rise early, donning their gear with the first light of dawn, eager to capitalize on the morning bite. Actually, about half of my fishing during this trip was in the dark, late at night or in the early morning. This was a new experience for me, both fishing in the dark and even just staying up past my routine 9pm bedtime! The darkness of Sette Cama is not the same as the darkness of an urban setting. In Sette Cama, dark is dark. It’s complete - and completely enveloping.

But isn’t it amazing how limiting one sense truly does kick all your other senses into overdrive? There were no distractions, nothing else fighting for my attention. It felt as if this is how we are meant to live in nature - able to immerse ourselves fully in it, aware of its rhythms, its energies, the overall feel. In the darkness, I became much more aware of the feel of my rod loading (or not loading!) and of the sound of the movement of the fish - paying close attention in determining their location solely on sound (and, in many circumstances, Mike or Ewan just telling me where to cast!). In the dark, I could truly feel the unbridled power - but also the incredible harmony - of nature all around me.

“In Sette Cama, dark is dark. It’s completeand completely enveloping”

Being in tune with nature in this incredible sport helps me to tune out all the noise and distraction of daily life. Do I love catching fish? Of course! Pursuing that catch is an incredible rush. But the outcome of a caught fish is certainly not the whole story. The journey - the waiting, the watching, the understanding of the rhythm and strengths of the fish all around me - takes me outside of myself, leading me into something greater.

It forces me to focus on the world around me, as well as my own response to it - am I getting impatient? Am I giving up easily when I don’t immediately get the outcome I want? Am I trying to understand the patterns of the beings around me or just hoping they’ll conform to my own schedule? I need to be there, in the moment, and experience what’s happening. I need to shut out the distractions of day-to-day life and focus on the process, and on the environment and my encounter with it. I think this is part of the reason I’m so drawn to fishing and travel. I truly believe that we all need, at times, to pull away from the busyness of everyday life to refocus on what’s important to us. Like all of my trips, my trip to Sette Cama reminded me, yet again, how crucial this is.

My arrival, the amenities, the warm and knowledgeable guideseverything about the trip was well executed and seamless. There was nothing to pull me away from what was right in front of me, nothing to dull the impact of nature as it was made to be experienced.

Sette Cama was everything I’d hoped for - and so much more. Yes, it was the scenery, culture, wildlife, and sport that I’d always craved, but it was also the human care and connections that allowed me to be myself, regardless of setting. It was being so well taken care of, with my needs continually anticipated and met, being able to focus on what was in front of me, and all around me.

Inexplicable magic

Reflecting on my journey to Africa, I realize now that my delayed visit to this magnificent continent was partly due to my misconceptions about its logistical challenges. However, thanks to African Waters and their dedicated team, I’ve come to understand that nothing is

too logistically difficult when you have the right support, creating an unforgettable experience to explore Africa’s wonders. From the pristine waters of Sette Cama to other destinations throughout Africa, African Waters offers a gateway to adventure, camaraderie, and the profound beauty of the natural world.

This trip to Africa has left me yearning to explore even more of the continent’s incredible fishery and wildlife, reigniting the childlike wonder from years past of what else I can experience in Africa. As I sit here at my desk, basking in the warmth of these memories, I realize the profound value of being present in the moment. There’s an inexplicable magic in immersing oneself fully in the now. Amidst any darkness, whether it’s the unknown depths of the sea or the uncertainties of what lies ahead in life, there’s a unique calmness found in casting a line and being in the shadows, guided only by instinct and the whisper of possibility. There is something to be said for fishing in the dark.