FEATURE
Creative Farming: Honeyberries for the Win
F
in Hay, of Hay Farms in rural Perth, is one of the founding members of the Scottish Honeyberries co-operative and a champion for this exciting new superfood. As a fifth-generation farmer – Hay Farms was established in 1892 at Easter Rhynd in Perth – Fin Hay knows a thing or two about tradition. Supplying oats to Quaker for porridge, wheat to Diago for spirit, and barley and rapeseed to multiple buyers, Hay Farms is an essential, if unseen, cog in the Scottish food and drink industry. Whilst the vast majority of Hay’s arable crop is reserved for these time-honoured routes to market, an innovative opportunity presented itself in 2016 when he was approached to join a new soft fruit growing endeavour by Stewart Arbuckle, a successful berry farmer based in Angus. Honeyberries – also known as a haskap berry – are native to Japan, Russia and Canada, thriving as they do in cooler, seasonal climates. Known as the berry of longevity, they are packed full of health benefits boasting four times the antioxidants and 42% more vitamin C than blueberries, and offering antiinflammatory, neuro-protective, and cardio-protective properties. Fin commented, “Stewart Arbuckle came across honeyberries on a trip abroad and
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had experimented with planting before approaching a handful of local farmers to gauge interest in launching a Scottish production group. His vision was to create a co-operative that would grow, sell, valueadd and market this new Scottish product.” Hay Farms became one of the first to join the nine-strong group, planting their first crop in 2017. “The sales pitch is easy; the health benefits are right up there with other super berries placing it into the young, health-conscious market.
The flavour really packs a punch, and the dark purple flesh and skin brings beautiful colour to a plate. “But even with that, the biggest challenge has been educating the customers; although it tastes delicious it’s not as sweet as a raspberry or strawberry which means it better lends itself as an ingredient. The flavour really packs a punch, and the dark purple flesh and skin brings beautiful colour to a plate.
“Once you get past the idea that it isn’t a traditional straight-from-punnet summer snack, it becomes hugely diverse. We were featured on Hairy Bikers earlier this year and they used it in a sauce with Scotch beef, and in a cranachan, perfectly showcasing it as both savoury and sweet. And because it has more tannins than grapes, Perthshire winery, Cairn o’Mohr, produced a honeyberry wine last year.” The group has taken a two-pronged approach to sales. Frozen berries are sold into the trade as a raw ingredient, and it is becoming commonplace to find honeyberries featured on the menus of Scotland’s award-winning restaurants and on-trend bistros and bars. Alongside this, the co-operative has developed a growing product range that includes jam and freeze-dried berries in a snack pack to sell direct to consumer, and via wholesalers into UK farm shops and delis. Fin continues, “Gleneagles Hotel now do honeyberry muffins at breakfast, and chefs such as Jamie Scott at The Newport and Stuart Black at 63 Tay Street use them regularly on the menu. This has helped us enormously both in building recognition for the fruit itself, and in growing demand. “Once people taste it, they love it. We go to trade shows and do tasting events with stockists, and people are enthused by what we’re offering – it’s a great product!”
