EXCELLENT ENTANGLEMENTS

by Laura Canepa - www.theducker.com

At the first Paris Fashion Week of the year, many luxury jewellery houses came to present their latest works of masterful goldsmithery studded with prodigious gems. Firmly set in the high-end segment, these creations have always been a niche devoted to excellence and savior-faire, which sees entanglements with numerous other creative universes. Those of high fashion and high jewellery have a particular creative affinity that loves going beyond the boundaries of the merely precious, toward an inclusive and sustainable future.

“Exceptional Stones” is the collection offered each year by Caroline Scheufele to present not only finished pieces, but gems still to be set for which the design is yet to be imagined. Alongside the purity, traceability and rarity of precious stones, the essential aspect of the collection its sustainability, thanks to the use of fairmined certified gold.

Exceptional Stones Collection. Fairmined certified ethical yellow and white gold necklace with diamonds and a one hundred carat fancy vivid yellow cushion-cut diamond.

Dearest Dior Collection. Ring in white gold, diamonds, blue tourmalines and tsavorite garnets.

Victoire de Castellane imagines Dearest Dior through an exploration of the ancient, fascinating art of embroidery. Like a precious yarn, ultra-light gold is chiselled into delicate textures like lace that reveal the skin. While inspired on the past, the innovative design and lively colours of the collection’s seventy-seven creations speak a highly contemporary, future looking language.

Dearest Dior Collection. Earrings in white gold, diamonds, blue tourmalines and tsavorite garnets.

GUCCI

Launched in Paris in 2019, the Gucci Hortus Deliciarum collection comes into bloom again this year with new specimens inspired on a kaleidoscopic garden, inhabited by wild, powerful and colourful flora and fauna. Emerald leaves, blossoms in the warm colours of mandarin garnet, spinel and beryl convey the sparkling atmosphere of spring in bloom.

Earrings

Necklace

Spirit Collection Chapter II

Destiny Bracelet

Louis Vuitton

Francesca Amfitheatrof, creative director of Vuitton’s jewellery and watches department, adds an unprecedented chapter to the Spirit collection, which debuted in June 2022. The thirty sensational jewels presented at the Paris Haute Couture Week have a truly avant-garde design and stylistic language typical of the House, with pure geometry producing new forms created especially for the occasion, one in particular being the LV cut of the diamonds with a star pattern, which the brand has patented, and the profile of the letter V repeated ad infinitum like chevrons.

History of Style: Like a Queen Collection. Bracelet paved with aquamarines and diamonds, with blue lacquer, in white gold.

History of Style: Like a Queen Collection. Ring set with a Ceylon cushion cut sapphire of 6.00 ct, paved with diamonds, in white gold.

Boucheron

Every year at the end of January Boucheron presents a new chapter in its Histoire de Style through collections revisiting the icons of this Parisian Maison’s archives, as seen through creative director Claire Choisne’s contemporary vision. For the eighteen “Like a Queen” pieces, this year she drew inspiration from a diamond and aquamarine double-clip brooch, receive by Queen Elizabeth II in 1944 as a gift for her eighteenth birthday. Art Déco style is the real protagonist, expressed through an unprecedentedly actual and innovative creative impulse, including the possibility that its wearers could, certainly, be like queens, but could also, and why not indeed, like kings.