Where to Eat

from Tirana In Your Pocket 2022

Communications

SYMBOL KEY

P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled E Live music G Non-smoking

B Outside seating

Alongside a highly recommended collection of restaurants serving traditional Albanian cuisine, Tirana continues to add dining options to its repertoire, including more and more places serving ‘health food’ and those returning to their Albanian farming roots. With a few upmarket exceptions, dining here remains an affordable extravagance that can be enjoyed outdoors for much of the year. Eating out in Tirana has never been this good.

ALBANIAN

Albanian cuisine offers a unique fusion of predominantly Balkan, Mediterranean and Turkish flavours with an emphasis on grilled meat, fresh vegetables, exotic desserts and individual portions that could keep an entire army marching on its stomach for a week. Restaurants serving Albanian food range from cheap and cheerful establishments complete with grubby tablecloths to places where you’re very likely to bump into the rich and famous. ERA RESTAURANTS Established in 1999 and hugely popular ever since, the Era restaurants serve the best of Albanian traditional dishes with only the finest cuts and ingredients. The menu evolves every few years and features outstanding traditional recipes, fresh salads, tasty desserts and pleasant wines. The professionalism is enhanced by the staff, many of whom have been working here for over a decade. Era Villa resembles a secret garden in the heart of the busy city, while Era Blloku is cozy and comfortable, located on Rr. Ismail Qemali in one of the most vibrant districts of Tirana.QH/I-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, 11, tel. +355 4 225 50 00, www.era.al. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. APTB

Communist-era memorabilia at Radio Bar

BALLKONI DAJTIT A rather lovely, Alpine-style wooden restaurant next to the cable car station with some excellent views of Tirana, this recommended place features a choice of several dining rooms of which the enclosed balcony offers the best views. Ballkoni Dajtit serves mostly Albanian cuisine, such as fergesë me speca (a dish with eggs and cheese), oven dishes, and, during the season, wild boar and rabbit.Qtel. +355 67 401 1021, www.dajtiekspres.com/facilities/ restaurant-ballkoni-dajtit. Open 09:00-22:00; closed Tue. €€. APTBL

BUJTINA JONE What would you think if someone told you of a restaurant with ‘Albanian-style yum cha dining’? Ignore the extensive menu, and hand-pick local meze from a cart of ready-togo dishes that’s wheeled to your table. Each one costs 150 lek, and each one is worth at least triple that. Whilst the super-acidic house white wine is not recommended, virtually everything else is, so let the good times roll as you enjoy the views from the far side of the lake, and the beautiful garden scenery of this villa restaurant.QRr. Memo Bejko, tel. +355 67 205 29 86. Open 07:00-23:00. €€. APBE

ILLUMINATUM Nuance between venue name and that of the conspiratorial secret society “The Illuminati” does not go unnoticed, especially after laying eyes on this elaborate, full-blown folly of a castle just 10 minutes drive south-east of the city. The outward appearance is only the start of the fairy-tale. Traditional Albanian fare whipped up by the kitchen staff and laid out before you by impeccably-dressed servers will make you feel like genuine royalty. Meanwhile, prices seem outrageously low for the overall experience.QUra e Peshkatarit, Petrele, tel. +355 69 208 88 22, www. iluminatum-residence.business.site. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APTBL

ODA A truly traditional restaurant, where you can eat sitting at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old Ottoman-era house. Surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photographs, it’s best to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetisers and mains. The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror në saç ovenbaked pie), unforgettable even after washing it all down with several glasses of their home-made raki. They recently opened a lovely little garden terrace as well. Find it down a tiny alley on the north side of the road near Sheshi Avni Rushtemi.QE-5, Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, tel. +355 69 966 88 81. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. €. NPB

VILA 31 A definite contender for Tirana’s most charming restaurant and also very hard to to find, Villa 31 really is marvellous, with an immaculately kept garden and gorgeous dining halls, one of which features a wall full of shelves stuffed with model submarines. Another room has a big open cooking place. The staff are friendly and helpful, and the exten-

O, DJALI!

You’ll need to grab attention and let your waiter know if you need something - anything from a menu to paying the bill. Albanians just aren’t in a rush, so don’t hesitate to calmly yell out O, djali! (for men) or O, vajza! (for women) as you wave your arm to let them know you require service.

sive menu has something for everyone. From Rr. Kavajës walk down Rr. Naim Frashëri and look for the sign down the fourth alley on your right.QE-2, Rr. Thoma Kacorri 2, tel. +355 69 321 23 96, www.vila31.business.site. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APB

ZAFFERANO The number one lunch spot for locals and expats in the Komuna e Parisit district, tucked away near the Kika 2 Complex. This small, family-run business is one of the best-kept secrets of the neighbourhood. Depending on your mood, choose either from the revolving daily menu or go for a customizable pasta or risotto. Definitely try the tave dheu, a casserole of beef, curds, tomatoes and peppers baked in a claypot - the ultimate Albanian comfort food. QJ-2, Rr. Haxhi Kika, tel. +355 69 587 25 06, www.zafferanorestaurant. business.site. Open 09:00-23:00. €€€. PB

FARM TO TABLE

PRICE GUIDE

As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve listed the average price of a main course dish, without drinks.

€ Under 500 lek €€€ Over 1,000 lek

€€ 500 - 1,000 lek

MENU DECODER

This should help you figure out what just slipped down your throat. Meat & Fish beef - biftek codfish - merluc chicken - pulë fish - peshk lamb - mish qengji prawns - karkaleca deti pork - derr salmon - salmon sausage - sallam sea food - fruta deti veal - mish viçi sole - gjuhës bass - levrek trout - troftë

Fruits & Vegetables apple - mollë mushrooms - kërpudha banana - banane orange - portokalle cabbage - lakër peppers - speca carrot - karrota tomatoes - domate eggplant - patëllxhane

Drinks beer - birrë juice - leng wine - verë water - ujë

Common dishes Byrek - pie with cheese, meat or herbs Patate të skuqura - french fries Tavë kosi - baked lamb, yogurt and eggs Fërgesë - fried minced lamb or liver, feta cheese and garlic Speca të mbushur - stuffed peppers, feta cheese, herbs

AMERICAN

DUFF Offering a little taste of America in Albania, long-time favoured expat haunt Duff (as in the beer drunk in The Simpsons) dishes up some of the tastiest burgers in town alongside favourites such as Philly cheesesteak. Punters can enjoy an intense match of beer pong as they watch American football, baseball or European and local soccer matches. A second location, Duff Arena, can be found at the national stadium. Reservations are definitely required for both locations on big game nights. QH-3, Rr. Brigada VIII, tel. +355 69 314 4661, www. duff-sports-bar.business.site. Open 07:00-02:00. €€. APGE

ASIAN

In the late 1950s, when Stalin’s regime was denounced, Albania turned to the Chinese for strict moral guidance, until they too were considered too bourgeois. However, it took several decades for a proper Chinese restaurant to open in Tirana. The Asian eateries present now are not quite authentic, but do the trick if you need a filling meal.

KUNG FU EXPRESS A popular buffet-style restaurant with a large open kitchen and even larger pictures of Bruce Lee all over the place, Kung Fu Express serves food that’s ready to eat as well as food you have to wait for. We can recommend chicken chow mein, spring rolls and ‘prawn crisps’. The larger portions on offer can easily feed two.QE-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 67 522 5555, www.kungfu-al.com. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. P

MIMI THAI CHINESE The cornucopia of Chinese and other Asian cuisines they bash together in their woks at Mimi’s wouldn’t be out of place in any half-way respectable Beijing suburb. There’s friendly service as you’d expect from Tirana, plus a full range of chicken, pork, noodle and beef standards: seafood specialities include calamari and shrimp.QI-5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 219 91 01. Open 12:00-23:00. €€. PB

SPEAK SHQIP: TABLE TALK

Welcome! - Mirëseerdhët! What do you recommend? - Çfarë rekomandoni? I would like... - do të preferoja... May I have a... - a mund të kem një... ... spoon - lugë ... fork - pirun ... knife - thikë … please - ...ju lutem. The bill please - Faturën ju lutem Thank you - Faleminderit

ORIENTAL CITY A small, family-run business with a large menu of mostly Chinese dishes, Oriental City serves all the classics in suitably Asian-looking surroundings. Plenty of vegetarian options. There’s a tiny little seating area if you prefer devouring your noodles al fresco.QH-5, Rr. Themistokli Germenji, tel. +355 42 28 88 88, www.oriental-citychinese-restaurant.business.site. Open 12:00-22:00. €€- €€€. APGB

BURGERS

DELIBROS Great ‘artisan’ burgers in a modest restaurant with a small terrace. With nine burger varieties, our Smashburger was served fast, hot and delicious, and the Chuck Norris burger and pastrami sandwich didn’t look half bad either.QH-3, Rr. Komuna e Parisit 19, tel. +355 67 754 44 44, www. delibrosfood.com. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 13:00-23:00. €. APB

LIKOS BURGER Whilst most Albanian burger joints fill their buns with a qofte replica of a burger patty, Likos’ lush, full-meat patties are a welcome surprise. Found in two of the most up and coming areas of Tirana, Likos also offers all the usual fast food, with the chicken gyros also a menu highlight. Also on Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha.QG-1, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 69 338 22 23, www.likosburger.com. Open 10:00-2:00. €€. PB

FINE DINING

HEAT BY CALME French fine dining at its best. With a refined interior, a small terrace and excellent service, book a table here for fantastic and beautifully presented dishes by a chef who previously worked in a three-starred Parisian restaurant. Try the foie gras or escargots starter, a duck or red mullet main course, and a chocolate cigar for dessert.QH-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 67 409 99 59, www.heat.al. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€€. PB

KARLSBERG This classy hotel restaurant is deservedly popular with the foreign crowd. Brick arches surround the diners, while some of the country’s best chefs ensure a quality meal is served time and time again from am impressive menu of Albanian and international cuisine. During the summer, head for the openair rooftop restaurant, a dazzlingly white classicist pleasure garden complete with fountains and amazing views.QI-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Xheko Imperial Hotel, tel. +355 68 202 97 77. Open 07:00-24:00. €€€. APGE

OTIUM A firm and seasoned favourite, cosy little Otium churns out plate after plate of fabulous-looking food, thrown together from fresh ingredients bought by the chef every morning. There’s no menu; the waiters will suggest a meal suited to your taste. Featuring large salads and a lot of well-prepared meat including excellent burgers, Otium is Tirana’s fine dining gem.QH-3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 4 222 3570, www.otium-restaurant.com. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. $$$. APG

SALT Much talked about by the Tirana in-crowd, Salt is an upmarket place set in a two-storey designer space hidden between the Blloku blocks. The pricey dishes served here include sushi, Mediterranean meals and seafood - all washed down with good wines and cocktails.QH-4, Rr.Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 400 00 13, www.salt. al. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00:23:00. €€€. APB

INDIAN

CHAKRA INDIAN FUSION Firmly established in the Millennium cinema compound and featuring Indian chefs working away in the kitchen, you know this is the real deal just from the smell of spice that hits you when you enter the classy dark interior. The menu is packed with classic dishes from fresh pakora to a proper vindaloo, some unusual inventions like the Indian burger, plus a big selection for vegetarians. The dessert menu is tiny to say the least, although there are a handful of lassis. Their sister restaurant Chakra Jonë on Rruga Tish Dahia in the Komuna e Parisit district is just as worthy of a visit.QJ-2, Rr. Murat Toptani, tel. +355 67 200 52 22, www.chakrarestaurant.al. Open 12:00-22:00. €€. APG

INTERNATIONAL

À LA SANTÉ Flavours, aromas and colours congregate on your plate at this popular Mediterranean restaurant - but not for too long as everything they serve is delicious. From risotto, ravioli and beef to fantastic desserts. Hidden down the small street behind the Baronesha shop, just south of Rr. Bogdani.QH-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 4 562 87 80. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00. CENI’S Ceni’s serves wonderfully fresh and original Italian and other regional food in a small basement not far from Grand Park. The owner is also a butcher, and his cuts of meat are some of the best in Tirana. With a changing daily menu you’re never quite sure what’s going to end up on your plate but if it helps, we recommend sticking to the pasta with additional meat for non-vegetarians. The business lunch offer is extremely good value for money. QK-4, Rr. Sami Frashëri 4, tel. +355 67 406 61 66, www. cenisrestaurante.com. Open 12:30-22:30; closed Sun. €€. NX

CITY LOUNGE In the back corner of the Kika 2 Complex, City Lounge is a huge venue with a menu to match its size. Wood-fired pizzas, pastas, risottos, burgers and the excellent cold or hot antipasto platters are all highlights of the menu. The value is incredible and service is quick, friendly and more personable than most in the city. The large outdoor space for kids to run around makes it a family favourite, too.QJ-2, Rr. Tish Dahia, tel. +355 69 833 11 11. €-€€. APB

E JONA A bustling restaurant set back from the street, E Jone (‘our place’) offers everything from humus and risotto to lamb chops. A popular place for quick and affordable business lunches during the week, find the changing specials listed on the blackboard. There’s a quiet garden terrace as well. QH-4, Rr. Brigada VIII 7, tel. +355 69 251 5333. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. AP

FRESH GARDEN Slow service is to be expected all across Albania and Tirana is no exception - however Fresh Garden is. Attached to the organic supermarket below, this restaurant truly understands the idea of a business lunch, in that it can spit out courses in succession with a speed appropriate for those in the hastiest of a rush. For those eaters with social media following their every bite, the dishes are picture perfect too.QH-3/4, Rr. Brigada VIII 4, tel. +355 67 402 07 77, www.fresh-garden.al/daily-menu.html. Open 08:0024:00. €€. PBL

KOSHERJA Be greeted by a cute courtyard with a Parisian vibe before entering the grand dining area and you’ll understand that the atmosphere here is as multicultural as the menu. Flavours from across the globe are featured, from Thailand to Mexico, Albania to Argentina. Enjoy a range of tapas dishes or dig into a full platter of Argentine meats. The courtyard at Kosherja, meaning beehive, is a wonderful place to soak up some summer sunshine whilst enjoying a drink. QG-5, Rr. Jul Variboba, tel. +355 69 206 00 99. Open 09:0011:30. €€. APTUB

BRUNCH

BUFE Many places in Tirana claim to host brunch, but few actually deliver on the promise. Bufe was one of the first to embrace the magic of the mid-morning meal and, as such, offers all the typical classics for breakfast or brunch that will have your eyes looking like the love-heart-eyed emoji. In the afternoon and evening, mix and match your favourite appetisers, be they from sea or earth, or dig into their pasta dishes.QF-4, Rr. Reshit Çollaku, tel. +355 69 318 11 49. Open 08:3024:00. €€. APB

LÖWENGRUBE A small corner of Bavaria at the southern end of the national stadium, the ‘Lion’s Den’ Bierstube has a franchise feel to it but serves authentic Späzle noodles, meaty German specialities like Bratwurst or grillplatters, together with excellent draft Löwenbräu and Franziskaner beers. Prosit.QI-5, Sheshi Italia 1, tel. +355 4 450 50 05, www. lowengrube.al. Open 08:00-24:00. €€€. APB

MIA BISTRO Contemporary with a courtyard terrace, this bistro is as cool as it is casual. The menu takes inspiration from around the globe (brunch and sushi are standouts here) and cocktails are world-class. MIA is the kind of place you can sit for hours as you watch the world go by. The crowd tends to be on the younger side and there’s a definite “too cool for school” vibe in the afternoons. Weekend nights the DJ really gets into it, spitting out soft electro tunes.QH-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha, tel. +355 69 906 66 66. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APUBE

MILLENNIUM GARDEN Tirana’s best garden terrace, beside the Millennium cinema and removed from traffic, is dominated by lush greenery, garden fragrances and birdsong - when the music’s not too loud. The bar and restaurant promises a “journey through taste, drinks and sound” and has an eclectic and somewhat pricey menu featuring everything from breakfast and brunch classics to burgers, pizza, poke bowls, sushi and Indian food.QF-5, Shëtitorja Murat Toptani, tel. +355 69 472 5106. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APB

PIANO BAR PIAZZA After all these years Piazza remains a good spot to dine on well-prepared Italian dishes including some fine efforts made with their home-made pasta. The very best thing about the place is the lush terrace, set among blooming flower beds and palm trees behind the National Museum, away from the traffic.QE-4, Rr. Ded Gjo Luli, Sheshi Harry Truman, tel. +355 42 23 07 06, www.piazza.com.al. Open 12:00-24:00. €€. APTUB

Souvenirs at the Pazari i Ri market

TERRACOTTA Passionate for Mediterranean food, the chefs here don’t follow a menu but rather create dishes from whatever is fresh that day, served with home-made pasta and delicious salads. The tiny restaurant with a few seats by the kitchen and the rest downstairs can get busy.QH-2, Rr. Komuna e Parisit, tel. +355 68 306 99 90, www. terracotta-restorant.business.site. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. APGS

THE GOAT A bustling, bright restaurant on the busiest stretch of the Blloku, this ‘gastro pub’ has everything from slap-up breakfasts, salads and burgers to tenderloin with Minnesota sauce... and draft beers and cocktails, of course. Everything except goat, come to think of it.QH-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 600 46 28, www.thegoat.al. Open 07:00-24:00. €€. APB

THE HOME A stylish restaurant with exposed brickwork, serving beautifully presented international dishes, ranging from Mediterranean classics and burgers to Mexican weekend brunches. Don’t miss their petulla donuts. Set back from the street, the first-floor tables overlook the market, mosque and mountains.QE-5, Rr. Shenasi Dishnica 1, Pazar i Ri, tel. +355 68 207 19 89. Open 08:00-11:30. €€. PB

ITALIAN

ARTIGIANO Artigiano and its sister restaurant Villa Artigiano (set behind a lovely leafy garden on Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II) both offer high-quality Italian dishes. You can expect treats prepared from their home-made pasta, cracking pizza baked in a proper wood-fired oven, gourmet burgers and seasonal salads - all served with a smile.QI-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 69 20 92 358, www.artigiano.al. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. APTB

FRATERIE What lies behind the doors of this restaurant are dishes so good that they made us cry tears of joy. The chef is most proud of his meat offerings, however it’s the pasta that is the true star here - definitely the best in Tirana, created with such love and care that one could argue it’s better than in Italy, and at a fraction of the price. Wine lovers will not be disappointed by the house choices here, either. QJ-2, Rr. Bilal Golemi 2, tel. +355 674010403. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:00. €€. A

GASTRO ORGANIC Humble is the best description for this eatery found in the student district, but those in the know are fully aware that this is one of the best pasta restaurants around. The owner is well-versed in true Italian pasta preparation and passionate about his work. Catering to students, prices are more than reasonable. The Mosaic of Tirana is nearby - though still closed at time of writing.QE-2, Rr. Frederik Shiroka, tel. +355 69 263 75 75, www.gastro-organic. business.site. Open 11:30-24:00. €€. APBL

GREEN HOUSE A 1930s villa with a quiet courtyard hidden behind high hedges seems the perfect place to indulge in some Italian food accompanied by a good selection of wines. The outside seating area has a tropical feel to it, while inside it’s all minimalist chic with delicate spotlighting.QG-5, Rr. Jul Varibova 6, tel. +355 69 205 7599, www.greenhouse.al. Open 12:00-22:30. €€€. APB

JUVENILJA CASTELO A little folly of a castle surrounded by lush greenery is as close as you can get to Camelot at a stone’s throw from the national stadium. Juvenilja has been dishing up pizza, pasta, risotto and Italian mains here since 2001, with some excellent desserts to wrap up the evening, or your afternoon. There’s another Juvenilja on Rr. Sami Frashëri in the Blloku.QJ-6, Rr. Skerdilajd Llagami, tel. +355 422 666 66. Open 12:00-11:00. APB

L’OSTERIA If you happen by L’Osteria, you too will be sucked in by the cuteness of its curbside appeal. It won’t stop at the street, either - the overture continues as you go inside, the adorable table decor seemingly straight out of a magazine. Then the food comes and it’s absolutely delectable - if you’re unaccompanied you might be inclined to join an app just to enjoy a first encounter in what can only be described as the perfect first-date location.QE-3, Rr. Mihal Duri 7, tel. +355 69 877 11 89, www.losteriarestaurant. business.site. Open 11:30-23:00. €€. APB

PANEVINO A firm business dinner favourite next to the Maritim Plaza Hotel, expect a classy interior with an open kitchen, all of your favourite Italian dishes and a few surprises such as their awesome cheeseburger. The outside seating is a little way from the chaos in the street and provides some much

FOOD DELIVERY APPS

Albania hasn’t quite stepped into the technological world in the way that other countries have in regards to apps, but one area where you’ll find a few contenders is with food deliveries. The oldest and the biggest is Baboon - this cash-on-delivery service has the largest selection of restaurants to order from. Foodini is a contender for the most convenient, as you can pay directly by card through the app and order your food for a future delivery time. Others include SnapFood (best if you’re in the city centre) and newer entrants to the market Orderoo, Turboo and ToGo.

needed shade during the heat of the summer.QF-5, Rr. 28 Nentori, tel. +355 4 22 55 512, www.panevino.al. Open 07:30-23:30. €€€. APB

PASTARIA Fast pasta served in a restaurant with a strikingly simple philosophy: serve as many varieties of sauces with a choice of pastas at low prices to attract a happy crowd of young Albanians. There’s so much choice that they categories sauces by colour. With speedy and friendly service we were out in a flash, feeling very content. Also on Rr. Mustafa Matohiti and Rr. Urani Pano 9.QI-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 69 379 43 43, www.pastaria.al. Open 11:0023:00. €. APBS

KOSOVAN

RESTAURANT GJAKOVA Named after the Kosovar city, Gjakova is a meat-lovers haven. Always buzzing with locals and foreigners and run by a team of friendly staff from Kosovo serving absolutely magnificent grilled meat dishes from the region, their ability to go off-menu for those living a plant-based life or with other dietary requirements make it a favourite. The menu here is like a short novel. On a budget? Meatballs, side and an ice-cold Peja beer will satisfy your tastebuds and wallet. Want to splurge? Beef florentine or tomahawk provide a salivating steak experience. Their fasule beans are the best in town, too.QI-2, Rr. Emin Duraku, tel. +355 69 255 71 95, www.gjakovadelivery.al. Open 09:0024:00. €. PTB

MIDDLE EASTERN

ARABESQUE Middle-Eastern food is the latest culinary trend to hit Tirana, with the standout being this central restaurant serving delicious Syrian specialities. With limited tables, it can get busy here at lunchtimes. Besides the baba ganoush smoked eggplant appetiser, falafel, hummus and kibbeh fried meatballs, don’t miss the kunafa dessert - a sinful concoction of stringy hot cheese and syrup.QE-3, Rr. Kavajes, tel. +355 67 203 17 33. Open 11:00-23:00. €€. AB

PIZZA

Because it’s everywhere, locating good pizza in Tirana is like finding a needle in a haystack. The combination of proper flour, fresh ingredients and real pizza ovens in Tirana guarantees that the pizzas are often just as good as those across the Adriatic.

GOLOSA Golosa means ‘gluttonous’ in Italian and you’re sure to feel that way with your fix of genuine wood-fired pizza. Follow the smell permeating through the shopping centre and enjoy the casual and relaxed vibe, and be prepared to roll out with a full belly because you won’t be able to stop ordering.QD-4, Rr. e Barrikadave, Galeria shopping centre, tel. +355 69 618 58 00, www.ringtravel.al. Open 11:00-23:00. €€.

GRANDE ROMA A contender for some of the top pizza in Tirana, Grande Roma dishes up all your Italian favourites in a cosy environment across all seasons. The ham, truffle and cream cheese is elegantly sumptuous, whilst their risottos are dainty but filling and flavourful. With a typical trattoria vibe, the atmosphere is casual yet comfortable and their delivery service is fast and reliable. It can be busy at peak traffic times.QH-5, Rr. Themistokli Gërmenji, tel. +355 68 871 11 17. Open 10:00-24:00. €€. APBLAGUNA There’s always a queue for the great-value and tasty pizza slices and ice cream served from this small kiosk at the main crossroads in town. You should be in it too.QG-4, Blv. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 69 391 00 04. Open 11:00-24:00. €. NW

PAVAROTTI When an Italian tells you that a particular place has the best Neapolitan pizza in town, you tend to listen. Pavarotti’s menu is jam-packed with both traditional and modern wood-fired pizzas and calzones, alongside a few salads. They also have the best children’s play area with attendants and even cameras to ensure that, no matter where you sit, you’ll be able to keep an eye out. Also offering high chairs for the little ones, this is a particular family favourite for Tirana.QRr. Shyqyri Brari, tel. +355 4 430 11 11, www.pavarottipizzeria. com. Open 07:30-23:50. €€. PBL

PROPER PIZZA Hugely popular with the 20-something crowd, this place isn’t called Proper Pizza for nothing. Choose from a baffling array of pizzas from the traditional to the more imaginative, some of them creatively decorated with strange crop-circle patterns, and all of them perfect for snacking on the premises or eating elsewhere.QI-3, Rr. Gjin Bue Shpata, tel. +355 69 777 88 88, www.properpizza.al. Open 10:00-24:00. €€. P

QOFTA

Known more widely as kofta in other parts of the world, the Albanian qofta is a simple, sausage-like dish made from ground beef that’s cooked on an open flame and served with a wide variety of salads, sauces and fresh white bread. Popular with the more working class residents of Tirana, qofta restaurants are hard to find in the city centre. They often appear on your table in a matter of minutes, making them an excellent snack when on the run.

ZGARA KORÇARE LIQENI This is our personal favourite qofta meatballs place in the capital, near the lake. As well as their magnificent Korçastyle qofta served with tzatziki and hot bread, this basic but brilliant restaurant cooks a variety of other meat dishes with accompanying cold Korça beer and soft drinks. The wooden tables outside provide a great place to watch the madness of the city below. Their other Zgara can be found on Rr. Luigj Gurakuqi, near the Pazar i Ri market.QE-5, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 69 353 28 03. Open 11:00-24:00. €€. PTB

KIDS’ PLAY AREAS

An interesting phenomenon in Tirana is the existence of child play areas in bars, restaurants and cafés. Ranging in size, these can be found all across town, both indoors and out. So don’t be alarmed if you hear Albanian kids say they’re having their birthday party at a bar - they’re having innocent fun, not belly button shots.

DRINK UJË, NOT AQUA

Order mineral water with your meal, and chances are that you’ll get sparkling water in a glass bottle that was shipped from Italy, France or even further away – usually at a high price for both the environment and your wallet. All this while Albania has excellent and abundant mineral water, and many good brands such as Selita and Glina. Join the revolution and ask your waiter for a local brand instead of imported mineral water, so that restaurants realise we patrons want to have the choice. The Albanian economy needs all the support it can get, and this helps in a small, bubbly way.

SEAFOOD

Barely 30 minutes from the Adriatic, it shouldn’t come as a great surprise to learn that Tirana features some truly outstanding seafood restaurants. Find a few scattered around the city and a tight huddle of them stretched along bvd. Gjergj Fishta between Rr. Ibrahim Rugova and Rr. Sami Frashëri.

DETI JON Deti Jon (Ionian Sea) is a simple affair with a fisherman’s cabin feel. In the time-honoured seaside tradition, it’s possible to choose exactly what you’d like before they cook it, so whatever catch is on the menu, it’s guaranteed to be fresh and delicious.QI-4, Rr. Ismail Qemali 8, tel. +355 69 203 20 15. Open 11:30-23:00. €€€. APG

FISHOP At Fishop you’re welcomed by a fantastic display of today’s catch, laid out on a bed of ice, so it’s simply a matter of pointing out your choice and asking what the chefs recommend to do with it. Be sure to book ahead, as both Fishop outlets on this street are often packed. For fast fish, visit their excellent fish burger joint at the Pazar i Ri market. QH-6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku, tel. +355 4 560 90 64. Open 10:00-23:30. €€€. AP

LA CLOCHE Seafood is ubiquitous in Tirana, but few places serve it up with the level of artistic flair as this newcomer to the culinary scene. Although the dining area is somewhat clinical in its decor and lighting, the food will make it all worthwhile. The chef is born-and-raised Italian residing in Tirana, aiming to introduce more modern Italian flavours. A quick chat with him and you’ll understand everything is created with love and enthusiasm.QE-3, Rr. e Bogdanëve 52, tel. +355 69 573 57 39. Open 12:30-22:00. €€€. AP

LA VITA È BELLA By most accounts one of the best seafood restaurants in the capital due to an uncompromising combination of good service, good food and good value for money. Set in a lovely white villa with a spacious garden, the menu here is fairly diverse, and it’s worth asking for advice as to what’s hot before plunging in.QH-5, Rr. Jul Variboba 21, tel. +355 69 407 44 49, www.lavitaebella.al. Open 12:00-24:00. $$$. APGB

LENTI’S FISH Seafood is best enjoyed with a water view, though with Tirana being set inland you might be willing to settle for less. No need! Lenti’s Fish, overlooking the Dry Lake (which is not dry at all), offers beautiful scenery and dishes up the best fish cakes in town. Their selection of fresh seafood is amazing - they even have scallops. A bit out of town, the bus to the TEG mall runs nearby, and it’s well worth the trek. QRr. Hamdi Garunja, Liqeni Thate, tel. +355 68 539 83 70. Open 12:00-11:00. €€. APB

PIREU FISH An upmarket seafood restaurant in a striking designer building covered with foliage, and with a pleasant, spacious interior. The catch of the day is displayed by the door, though the menu has other delicacies such as seafood pasta, shellfish and lobster.QH-6, Rr. Qemal Guranjaku 12, tel. +355 68 404 05 06. Open 12:00-23:30. €€. APB

STEAK

EL GAUCHO Some venues offer Argentinian meats, but there is only one that is truly dedicated to the cuisine. Instantly becoming a hit favourite amongst the expat crowd, this is a pricey alternative to the Albanian zgares that are ubiquitous around town. The degustation menu is surprisingly good value with empanadas and steaks being the highlights. We were disappointed by their pastas, which looked and tasted like what you slop together with leftovers when feeling lazy.QH-2, Rr. Mustafa Qosja, tel. +355 69 609 88 88. Open 11:0024:00. €€. APBS

MANGIAFUOCO There are a few steakhouses dotted around town, with most highlighting their tomahawk or beef florentine, but for eye fillet lovers there’s one star that shines brighter than the others. At Mangiafuoco you are spoilt for choice on sauces and steak accompaniments. The use of herbs and spices here make even a normally boring grilled chicken fillet extra delicious. Enjoy dining whilst seated in lush and plush dining chairs and the kind of service you’d expect for the price. QH-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani, tel. +355 69 642 20 36. Open 11:00-24:00. €€€. APB

PAGUS There are so many other things on the menu at Pagus apart from the excellent Black Angus steak that it could also just about equally qualify as a full Italian restaurant. Smack bang in the centre of the action, if you don’t particularly like steak, the burgers here are pretty special and the pasta dishes also come highly recommended. Grown ups with children might like to know that they can slice and throw a steak inside a sandwich if the kids are particularly fussy.QI-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 203 04 09. Open 12:00-24:30. €€. APB

SUSHI

SOSUSHI SoSushi has been around since before sushi became a trend in Tirana. Intimate in size and located below ground level, you’ll need to be on the lookout - but once inside be transported into a tranquil bamboo paradise. Enjoy Japanese delicacies such as sushi, sashimi and tempura without the need to offer any arms or legs as payment. Delivery is available to literally wherever you are, be it home, at a bar or even a park.QH-3, Rr. Brigada e VIII, tel. +355 67 413 25 82. Open 12:00-23:30; closed Mon. €€€.

VILA YAMATO With an entrance between minimalist curving concrete walls that would not be out of place in Tokyo, Vila Yamato is a spacious sushi restaurant with both atmosphere and good taste, though the prices are above average and service can be slow. The menu is impressive though with all the regular options and desserts like matcha cheesecake. Yamato is also found wrapping things in rice on Rruga Ibrahim Rugova.QG-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II 13, tel. +355 69 400 40 01. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. APB

TEX-MEX

SERENDIPITY There’s nothing serendipitous about Serendipity at all, with the finger food to the full-blown Mexican dishes being about as authentic as they can when you consider this is Tirana and not Tijuana. With a very relaxed vibe, this is the kind of restaurant you may drop in to for a snack at dinner time, but end up falling into bed six hours later full of tequila and burritos. QI-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova 26/1, tel. +355 68 902 8029. Open 09:00-24:00. €€€. APXU

SERENDIVILLE A villa near the Dinamo sports fields has been converted into a Tex-Mex ranch, with small tables crammed with happy chicas and chicos inside, and a large terrace. The menu is massive - try the taco loco dish with beef, or the top-notch fajitas served on a sizzling plate. The enormous frozen margaritas are excellent thirst-quenchers. Service can be slow as they do get busy, but it’s always with a smile. QK-2, Rr. Liman Kaba 30, tel. +355 68 609 33 33, www. serendiville.business.site. Open 11:30-23:30. €€. PB

SPAGHETTI WESTERN Getting your fix of Tex-Mex food is surprisingly easy in Tirana with a number of options, but the best value and selection is found at Spaghetti Western. Tacos are only about 250 lek, as are draft beers. Other menu highlights include American favourites like burgers, chicken fried steak and BBQ pork ribs. The saloon style decor is very on theme and the waitstaff are dressed to match the style, cowboy hats and all.QH-4, Rr. Pjeter Bogdani 13, tel. +355 68 207 20 00, www.spaghettiwestern.business.site. Open 12:0022:45. €€€. APB

TURKISH

LEZET “Same same, but different” is a phrase that every well-seasoned traveller knows and also perfectly describes each Balkan country’s take on regional cuisine. You could be easily tricked into believing that Albanian and Turkish food are the same. Simply compare İçli Köfte with qofte and know there’s a difference. Interestingly, the same can be said about the languages - lezet in Albanian means pleasurable, whereas lezzet in Turkish means flavour. Pure genius!QF-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Kalaja e Tiranes, tel. +355 69 529 65 97. Open 07:30-24:00. €. APB

SOFRA TURKE An oasis of calm in an otherwise chaotic street, this slightly upmarket restaurant specialises in original kuzhina turke as opposed to the Albanian-tinged look-alike food available in most restaurants in Tirana. Complete with pictures of old Istanbul and plenty of carpets on the walls, the staff speak enough English to take diners through the menu. Surplus to the cavalcade of delicious grilled meat options is a range of classic sticky Turkish baklava desserts.QF-2, Rr. Kavajës 170, tel. +355 4 2 22 68 18, www.sofraturke. wordpress.com. Open 08:00-23:00. €€. APB

VEGETARIAN

See also our ‘healthy food’ café reviews.

VEGGIES The best vegetarian and vegan option in town, Veggies has an extensive menu of veg sushi, ramen, portobello burger, salad bowls, fresh juices, smoothies, desserts and more. There’s a nice terrace too.QI-4, Rr. Nikolla Tupe 15, tel. +355 69 207 77 26, www.veggiestirana.com. Open 08:00-23:00; closed Sun. €€. APB

Next Article

Communications

SYMBOL KEY

ALBANIAN

O, DJALI!

FARM TO TABLE

PRICE GUIDE

MENU DECODER

AMERICAN

ASIAN

SPEAK SHQIP: TABLE TALK

BURGERS

FINE DINING

INDIAN

INTERNATIONAL

BRUNCH

ITALIAN

FOOD DELIVERY APPS

KOSOVAN

MIDDLE EASTERN

PIZZA

QOFTA

KIDS’ PLAY AREAS

DRINK UJË, NOT AQUA

SEAFOOD

STEAK

SUSHI

TEX-MEX

TURKISH

VEGETARIAN

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This article is from:

Tirana In Your Pocket 2022