Shopping

Tirana has caught up with the rest of us and now boasts more or less everything the modern shopper requires, much of it for sale in modern shopping centres. A more authentic Albanian retail experience can be had in the cheap and cheerful neighbourhood shops staffed by grinning proprietors, many of them more concerned with where you’re from and if you have a husband or wife than what you want to buy. Around the Pazar i Ri market, the bustling streets cater to singular tastes such as bicycles, secondhand clothes and furniture.

BOOKS

Tirana’s bookshops rarely offer many English-language titles, with the two listed here the main exceptions.

ADRION INTERNATIONAL BOOKS The best selection of English-language books in (and about) Albania, including a wide selection of novels, art books, guidebooks, maps and an ever-increasing selection of translated Albanian literature and titles on local history and culture. Also at the airport.QE-4, Sheshi Skënderbej, Palace of Culture, tel. +355 4 450 26 06, www. adrionltd.com. Open 08:00-21:30. A

BOOKLAND A large selection of English-language novels can be found at this colourful shop on the 3rd floor of the ETC.QG-5, Blvd Bajram Curri, Galeria ETC, tel. +355 68 409 91 99, www.bookland.al. Open 9:00-21:00. A

FASHION

Before the arrival of the large shopping centres, Rruga Myslym Shyri and surroundings used to the the go-to place for fashion - and it still offers a decent clothes shopping experience.

IL CAMMINO Elegant shoes.QG-3, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, tel. +355 69 557 52 21, www.ilcammino.al. Open 9:00-21:00; closed Sun. A

ILLYRIAN BLOODLINE Urban fashion by Albanian hiphop artist Rigels Rajku, aka Noizy. Albania’s first fashion brand uses organic cotton for its comfortable hoodies, T-shirts and more, often featuring big letters and graphics inspired by Albanian history. On the eastern side of the National Stadium.QI-5, Rr. Dervish Hima, tel. +355 69 440 41 88, www.illyrianbloodline. com.

PERLA SHOP Albania’s largest online female fashion boutique, with a great selection, good prices, delivery within 24 hours in Albania and an Instagram channel with 250 thousand followers (which means basically everyone who has a phone in Albania) following the riveting adventures of the five Perla models.Qwww.perlashop.al.

CASH IS KING

Even a global pandemic couldn’t turn Albania into a card-carrying country, so come prepared with cash lek in almost all bars and restaurants. Whilst some venues more accustomed to foreigners are slowly catching on, you should be aware that staff may not know the intricacies of payment machines, and tips should always be in cash.

TWENTY FIVE Modern fashion, shoes, bags and accessories for contemporary women. Also at Rr. Sami Frashëri. QI-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 7, tel. +355 69 862 69 67. Open 09:00-21:30.

ZERO ABSOLUTE Quality ladies’ fashion at reasonable prices.QI-3, Rr. Sulejman Delvina, tel. +355 69 208 00 70, www. zeroabsolute.com. Open 08:00-21:30.

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

The best souvenir shopping is in Kruja, where shops are full of jewellery, antiques and knickknacks. In Tirana, the Pazar i Ri market has good souvenir options and kiosks at the southern end of Rr. Barrikadave sell Albania mugs, dolls and bunker ashtrays. Albanian cheese and other foodstuffs also make excellent gifts if you can get them home without eating them all on the plane.

ART FOREVER Folk costumes, antique chests, wood carvings and old books, near the corner of Blv. Bajram Curri.QG/H-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 99, tel. +355 4 224 63 86. Open 10:30-21:00; closed Sun. A

HODA The “House of Design Albania” offers striking, large paintings of Albanians in traditional dress, beautiful carpets, pottery and furniture.QF-5, Rr. Murat Toptani, Tirana Castle, tel. +355 68 200 78 80. Open 09:00-21:00.

PIRRO SOUVENIRS A good selection of handicrafts and souvenirs; flags, T-shirts, and mugs depicting Enver Hoxha, King Zog and Mother Teresa.QI-4, Rr. Abdyl Frashëri, tel. +355 4 222 55 87. Open 09:00-21:00. A

TRADITA POPULLORE EDLIRA Traditional Albanian costumes for women and men for sale. You can also try these on for a photo session at the Tirana Castle souvenir shop.QCasa Italia, Tirana-Durres highway, tel. +355 68 309 91 09. Open 08:00-21:00; closed Sun.

MARKETS

Anyone with a cardboard box, a few packets of cigarettes and a square metre of pavement is effectively a market trader in Tirana. Whenever it rains, people will appear as if by magic, armed with a clutch of umbrellas.

PAZARI I RI Tirana’s ‘new market’ is the city’s main source of fresh produce. Indoors there’s meat, fish and cheese, while an elegant roof protects the sellers of olives, figs, wine, raki, and - our favourite souvenir - woolly house socks. Early morning is the best time of day to witness the Balkan-style trading and haggling. The area has seen huge investment recently, which has resulted in a lively scene with many good restaurants.QE-5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, www. pazariiri.com. Open 04:30-23:00.

TREGU I ÇAMËVE This long, semi-covered alley is the main clothing and miscellaneous items market in Tirana, lined with stalls packed with cheap Chinese knock-offs, underwear, sports goods and plastic toys. Branching off from here, Rr. Çameria is the market street for mobile phones, kitchenware and bikes. QF-3, Rr. Shyqyri Berxolli. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sun.

SHOPPING CENTRES

Until fairly recently, Tirana’s shopping centres were predominantly upmarket affairs pandering to the sophisticated tastes of the city’s fashion-conscious wives and girlfriends. This all changed with the opening of TEG, a massive complex on the edge of the city reminiscent of any shopping centre found in Western Europe.

CASA ITALIA A large complex with various mid-range shop outlets. QTirana-Durrës highway, tel. +355 48 86 05 12, www. casaitalia.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A

COIN An Italian department store on the lower floors of the high-rise ABA building, selling fashion, home appliances, children’s toys and other nice things.QH-5, Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, ABA Business Center, tel. +355 4 450 17 37, www. coin.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A

GALERIA ETC One of the first modern shopping centres, the ‘European Trade Center’ has around 25 shops and a restaurant. There’s a Conad supermarket on the ground floor and a good bookshop upstairs.QG-5, Rr. Bajram Curri, tel. +355 4 225 41 00, www.galeria-etc.com. Open 09:3021:30. A

KRISTAL CENTER A shopping centre with a Conad supermarket.QRr. Frang Bardhi, tel. +355 4 480 10 28, www.kristalcenter.com. Open 09:00-21:00. A

Pazari i Ri market

QTU (QENDRA TREGTARE UNIVERS) The QTU shopping centre has a large Carrefour supermarket, electronics shop, a food court and a Cineplexx cinema with love seats at the back.QTirana-Durrës highway, km 6, tel. +355 4 238 01 00, www.qtu.al. Open 09:00-21:00. Open Apr-Sept 09:00-22:00, Oct-Mar 09:00-21:00. A

RING CENTER A massive shopping complex within walking distance of the city centre with some 70 shops on three levels, restaurants, ice-skating, and children’s activities. The bus terminal for western and northern Albania is at the rear of the complex.QD-2, Rr. Muhamet Gjollesha, tel. +355 4 454 06 00, www.ring.al. Open 09:00-22:00. A

TEG (TIRANA EAST GATE) The largest and most popular shopping centre in Albania features two floors of shops, a food court, cafés, a huge Interspar hypermarket and a cinema. Also the location of the new international bus station serving the east and south of the country.QRr. Nacionale, Highway Tirane-Elbasan, tel. +355 4 239 50 01, www.teg.al. Open 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-21:00. A

TOPTANI SHOPPING CENTER The newest large mall in the city centre has 6 floors of shops and great views over Tirana from the top floor, where there’s also a kids’ play area and few food options such as a Nona buffet restaurant. A supermarket and ATMs including a Credins Bank one can be found downstairs. QF-5, Rr. Abdi Toptani, tel. +355 4 454 09 99, www. toptani.com.al/en. Open 09:00-22:00.

SPECIALITY FOOD

BARONESHA The expats’ go-to shop for ‘a taste of home’, from Vegemite to sauce hollandaise, vegan cheese to filet mignon - Baronesha has it all, even diet soda and cider.QH-3, Rr. Sami Frashëri, tel. +355 68 407 43 19, www.baronesha.al. Open 08:30-22:00.

MASÈ High quality imported meat and other hard-to-find Italian products such as gluten-free pasta. Also cheese, wine, sausages and jam.QD-4, Rr. Sami Frasheri, tel. +355 68 205 7230/+355 68 205 72 30, www. cottomase.it. Open 11:00-23:00. A

MIA ORGANIC Organic meat, fruit, vegetables and dairy products from local organic producers.QH-5, Rr. Ismail Qemali, tel. +355 69 707 59 54, www.mia.al. Open 07:3021:00. AGSW

MON AMOUR Fresh, hand-made chocolates, cakes, sweets and desserts all made in-house. Also on Rr. e Elbasanit. QD-5, Rr. Barikadave, tel. +355 68 342 50 97, www. monamour.al. Open 07:00-22:00. A

NATYRAL & ORGANIK Organic olive oil, raki, wine, honey, and dried herbs. QH-4, Rr. Vaso Pasha 3, tel. +355 69 209 90 47. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-14:00, 17:30-21:00. A

NERANXI Home cooks looking for a taste of Asia or Mexico should head to the nearest Neranxi supermarket, which stocks all colours of rice, speciality herbs and spices, nuts, sauces, and more. Also at the Pazar i Ri market.QRr. Sami Frashëri 40, tel. +355 4 240 65 00. Open 24hrs.

SAN TARA WINE A great little shop selling an excellent range of wine, brandy and raki from their own vineyards.QF/G-4, Rr Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 68 60 60 380. Open 09:0021:00. A

SPECIALITY SHOPS

ATOM COMPUTERS PCs, mobile phones, data projectors, monitors, accessories and lots of other computer-related goods. QG/H-3, Rr. Myslym Shyri, tel. +355 69 985 41 99, www.atom.al. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Sun. A

MOLLA STORE Authorised Apple products reseller. Guess what molle means?QH-4, Rr. Ibrahim Rugova, Sky Tower, tel. +355 68 204 88 87, www.molla.al. Open 08:00-20:00. NEPTUN Electronics shop. Also in the TEG, Kristal and QTU malls, as well as other outlets.QE-5, Sheshi Avni Rustemi, tel. +355 4 450 50 50, www.neptun.al. Open 09:00-21:00. A

SUPERMARKETS

BIG MARKET A central, little supermarket.QE-5, Rr. Barrikadave, tel. +355 69 707 60 25, www.bigmarket.al. Open 09:0021:00.

BIO JU Organic products.QI-4, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 69 806 02 22, www.bioju.al. Open 08:00-23:00.

CONAD Italian supermarket chain with shops all over Tirana.QG-5, ETC Galeria, tel. +355 4 227 01 74, www.conadalbania. al. Open 07:30-22:00. A

ECO MARKET Albanian supermarket brand with many outlets in Tirana.QD-4, Rr.Him Kolli, tel. +355 4 450 42 86, www. ecomarket.al. Open 07:00-23:00. A SPAR A supermarket chain with stores of various sizes all over the city, and a hypermarket at the TEG mall.QH-5, Rr. Perlat Rexhepi, tel. +355 48 845 900, www.spar.al. Open 07:00-00:00. A