Sightseeing

City FoRuM (FoRuM) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB‑3.

City GAtES (GRAdSkA vRAtA) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the land gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Sea gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD‑2.

City LodGE (GRAdSkA LožA) Built by the same architect as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”. QD‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 ‑ 14:00, Sat 09:00 ‑ 13:00; closed Sun. Admission 20/10kn. J

City SENtiNEL (GRAdSkA StRAžA) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC‑3, Narodni trg, www.nmz.hr. Open 09:00 ‑ 14:00, Sat 09:00‑13:00. Closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 20/10kn.

City WALLS (GRAdSki BEdEMi) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities. On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D‑ 2.

GREEtiNG to thE SuN Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA‑3.

St ANAStASiA’S CAthEdRAL (kAtEdRALA Sv. StošijE) An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristy. QB‑3, Trg svete Stošije. J St ChRySoGoNuS’ ChuRCh (CRkvA Sv. kRšEvANA) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC‑2, Poljana Pape Aleksan‑ dra III 2.

St doNAtuS’ ChuRCh (CRkvA Sv. doNAtA) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB‑3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, tel. (+385‑23) 25 06 13. Open 09:00‑21:00. Admission 20kn. J St SiMEoN’S ChuRCh (CRkvA Sv. šiMuNA) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights.QD‑3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385‑23) 21 17 05.

thE RivA “Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. www.inyourpocket.com

Si SightseeingLvER CASkEt oF St SiMEoN In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history.

thE SEA oRGAN (MoRSkE oRGuLjE) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air.QA‑4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

ZAdAR City WALLS PRoMENAdE Zadar was once the largest city-fortress in the Republic of Venice and its City Walls were an important part of an elaborate defensesystem.The City Walls of Zadar, together with the other five components of the Venetian Works of Defense of the 16th and 17th century, located in today’s Croatia, Italy and Montenegro, joined UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2017 as an outstanding monument of the modern maritime fortification scheme.The most impressive part of the Walls is the Land Gate, the main historical entrance to the city built in 1543 by Michele Sanmicheli, a famous Venetian architect. As an integral part of the Walls, it is considered one of the finest Renaissance monuments in whole Dalmatia, boasting its triumphal arch, central passage and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. The walls were renewed in 2020 with the support of the EU funds and the promenade in length of 750 meters was opened on November 24th last year, the day of Saint Chrisogonus – the city patron of Zadar.

MuSEuMS

ARChAEoLoGiCAL MuSEuM (ARhEoLoški MuZEj) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archaeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. Archaeological Museum in Zadar displays ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits that are included at this permanent exhibition.QC‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385‑23) 25 06 13, www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00‑21:00. Admission 30kn. J

Fishermen’s Fair, Zadar1960 NMZ Archive Photo by Ante Brkan On the newly renovated promenade along the City Walls you can visit quite a few open-air exhibitions this summer including the Intra Muros exhibition of photographs by Ante Brkan, a famous Zadar photographer.

MuSEuM oF iLLuSioNS The Museum of Illusions is an optical tour de force that’s a thrill for the whole family. In the heart of Zadar’s old town, the museum is unique in this part of Europe. Trick your mind and your senses with an array of exhibitions that will change the way you see the world around you. Come take a tour of a place like no other. You won’t believe your eyes!QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, tel. (+385‑23) 31 68 03, www.zadar.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00‑22:00. Admission 70/50kn and for families 200kn.

NAtioNAL MuSEuM (NARodNi MuZEj ZAdAR) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History Department, Ethnological Department, Department of Zadar City Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge, Rector’s palace and visitor centre Minor Arsenal host a number of current exhibitions as well. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC‑2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385‑23) 25 18 51, www.nmz.hr. Permanent display relocated to Rector’s Palace due to renovation of the Museum. J

RECtoR’S PALACE (kNEžEvA PALAčA) One of the city’s prized buildings, the 13th-century Rector’s Palace is located in the eastern part of the Zadar peninsula. Over the centuries the palace has experienced many changes, both scarce and stylistic. Archaeological research of its foundations had revealed parts of the building from the Roman and Late Antiquity period to wall structures showing Romanesque and Gothic layers. Historically, three restructured projects have taken place; in the 16th century, 19th century and in the 21st century. The latter was due to its bombing during the Homeland War where it was hit by eight large calibre missiles, causing heavy destruction and damaging the statics of the building. Now and as of recent, the palace has been reconstructed thanks to EU funding and is now a modern equipped cultural complex. This new tourist attraction unites the museum space, its temporary exhibition halls, and representative halls decorated and conserved in different historical styles. It also has a video gallery, concert and multimedia halls. In keeping to its natural and original beauty, the Rector’s Palace is now a treasure of the city well worth visiting.QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Open 09:00 ‑ 14:00, 16:00 ‑ 22:00, Sat 09‑13. Closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 35/10kn.

SiLvER ANd GoLd oF thE City oF ZAdAR (ZLAto i SREBRo ZAdRA) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry.QB‑3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385‑23) 25 04 96/(+385‑23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 ‑ 13:00, 17:00 ‑ 19:00, Sun 10:00 ‑ 13:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

Greetings to the sun, Photo by Dalibor Brlek thE MuSEuM oF ANCiENt GLASS (MuZEj ANtičkoG StAkLA) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD‑2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385‑23) 36 38 31/(+385‑ 23) 36 38 30, www.mas‑zadar.hr. Open 09:00‑21:00. Admission 30/10kn.

dugi OTOk

Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

duGi otok touRiSt BoARd QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385‑23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 ‑ 21:00, Sun 09:00 ‑ 13:00.

iST & MOLaT

Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Iž

This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

pašMaN

You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly lowlying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

PAšMAN touRiSt BoARd QPašman, tel. (+385‑23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr. Open 08:00‑13:00; 15:00 ‑ 20:00; Sun 08:00 ‑ 12:00.

tkoN touRiSt BoARd QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385‑23) 28 52 13, www.tzo‑ tkon.hr. May Open 08:00 ‑ 20:00, Sat 08:00 ‑ 14:00; Closed Sun.

Rava

Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž and Dugi Otok. Shaped like a figure of 8 with two large bays, it has two tiny settlements, about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather good restaurant, small coves suitable for swimming and a limited amount of private accommodation. If your aim is to escape far from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may well be for you.

SiLBa, OLiB & pREMuda

These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written. Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

SiLBA touRiSt BoARd QSilba, tel. (+385‑23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr. From June Open 10:00 ‑ 22:00.

That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

PREko touRiSt BoARd QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385‑23) 28 61 08, www. preko.hr. Open 08:30 ‑ 20:00.

TOp SighTS

ASSERiA At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.QBenkovac.

GALEvAC (škoLjić) If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Monastery of St. Paul the hermit. The monastery complex was built on the island galevac (Školjić), situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th century, whilst the construction of the monastery took place during the 15th century. The inventory collection of the monastery consists of more than 56 items.

LuNj oLivE GRovE (LuNjSki MASLENik) Located in the very north of the gorgeous island of Pag, in the Novalja area, the Lunj Olive Grove stretches over 24 acres and has been intact for centuries making it a true rarity in its own right. There are natural wild olive trees called Olea oleaster linea with more than 80,000 altogether, out of which 1,500 are 1200 years old on average and the oldest is 1600 years old. The Lunj Olive Grove is unique in the world because of the large numbers of old wild olive trees that have remained together for thousands of years. A real gem in Croatia’s proud heritage!

NAtuRE PARk “tELAšćiCA” Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. A trip to the Telaščica nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok – it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 8km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay – the water is warm and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385‑23) 37 70 96, www.pp‑telascica.hr. Informa‑ tion office in Sali open 07:00 ‑ 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 ‑24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 ‑ 5000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 ‑ 40kn.

PAg ChEESE The barren spaces of the island of Pag, which constitute the very northern reaches of Dalmatia, have not only a specific beauty to those with an eye for severe and arid rock formation in place of grass and the like, but this extreme environment also produces special characteristics in the produce that springs from within it. What little vegetation (including hardy medicinal herbs) sheeps can manage to lay their molars on, is caressed by the sturdy bora (a brisk northern wind) which carries with it salt from the surrounding seas. This high sodium diet imparts special flavours to the hard, salty and absolutley glorious cheese that is made from their milk and then coated in olive oil whilst it ripens.

PAg lACE The tradition of making lace is so well regarded on the island of Pag that there is now a lace making school well established in the town of the same name – a resurrection of a former school that had run since the turn of the 20th century. It was way back in this time that Pag lace had become famous in its own right and was busy decorating the homes of the royalty of Europe. The lace – twenty inches in diameter – consists of a different pattern for each piece, never to be exactly repeated. The painstaking creation of the intricate circular patterns is carried out by the women of the town – and what with the shift away from the islands in general by the younger population it was realised that the tradition and skills could well be lost – thus the reawakening of the school. PAg ShEEP Free sheep graze the island’s salty wildflowers and medicinal herbs, such as rosemary and nightingale (sage) and thus meander through the sparse rugged terrain. There is nothing more natural than this natural lamb. The salt from the sea, courtesy of the bura, in combination with the wild herbs that the sheep feed on permeates Pag lamb and the cheese made from their milk. Gastronomes consider this to be a top speciality. In addition, lambs are fed exclusively on ewe milk before gradually transitioning to young shoots of grass in the spring. They are not given any dietary supplements.

NiN SALt WoRkS & ChuRCh oF thE hoLy CRoSS (SoLANA NiN & CRkvA SvEtoG kRižA) The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. Some of the archeological highlights are located in Nin. Such as the pre-Romanic Church of the holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world.QNin.

PAkLENiCA NAtioNAL PARk The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams,the velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available – reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: planinari.paklenica@gmail.com. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.np-paklenica. hr). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Stari‑ grad‑Paklenica, tel. (+385‑23) 36 92 02/(+385‑23) 36 91 55, www.np‑paklenica.hr. Open 06:00‑20:30. Ticket 30 ‑ 60/20 ‑ 40kn.

SAkARuN - duGi otok Looking for that picture perfect beach! Then look no further as Sakarun is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Zadar area. It is situated near the towns of Veli Rat, Veruni, Soline and Božava and its white sandy beach stretches 800 meters in length. A string of pine trees surround the beach which also has two eateries. Jump on board the tourist train which leaves Božava and Sakarun every two hours!Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

SALjSkE užANCE 06.08 - 08.08 The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.’ In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia. Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

thE NoRthERN vELEBit NAtioNAL PARk With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable forests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats, which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Zavižan and Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders, surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, has numerous ruins of shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in times past. The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineering. At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the traditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renovation of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming as a measure for preserving biodiversity. To lean more and buy entry tickets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the village of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of entering a chasm using a special “lift”. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www. np‑sjeverni‑velebit.hr.

vRANA LAkE NAtuRE PARk This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385‑23) 38 31 81, www.pp‑vransko‑jezero.hr/hr/. Offices in Biograd Open 08:00 ‑ 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Manage‑ ment only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 ‑ 21:00 which includes weekends. Entrance 20/10 kn.