Top 5 Experiences in Rijeka

GouRMEt KALELARGA Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores - the meat dishes are to-die-for! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region. For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385‑23) 23 30 00, www.arthotel‑kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 ‑ 11:00; 18:00 ‑ 23:00. (80 ‑ 140kn). APGB hARboR CooKhouSE & CLub Harbor Cookhouse & Club sits on the waterfront of Zadar harbour, unsurprisingly, offering impeccable views of the water and of Zadar’s old town on the other side. Decked out in the fashion of a stylish yacht, this coastal eatery is certainly one to have on your ‘must-go’ list if you’re visiting the area. Popular with locals and tourists alike, you’ll find something here to suit at all times of day; whether a coffee to start the morning, a cool glass of vino over a light lunch, or a few beers with your dinner. There are offers each day, a business lunch menu proves exceptional value. The à la carte menu is very much that, with the meals on offer changing. If available, try the seafood burger.QC‑1, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385‑23) 30 15 20, www.harbor.hr. Open 08:00‑23:00. (80‑700kn). APGBE KAštEL Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB‑2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385‑23) 49 49 50, www.hotel‑bastion.hr. Open 13:00‑ 23:00. (145 ‑ 240kn). APGBL KoRNAt Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB‑2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385‑23) 25 45 01, www.restaurant‑kornat.hr. Open 12:00‑23:00. (75‑ 200kn). APGBJ6 MALo MiSto The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ matinca ‑ Matejeva 3, tel. (+385‑23) 30 18 31, www. malo‑misto.com. Open 12:00‑23:00; Sun 18:00‑23:00. (100‑250kn). APGB NiKo Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG‑5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385‑ 23) 33 78 88, www.hotel‑niko.hr. Open 16:00‑23:00. (90‑190kn). APGSL6 pEt buNARA This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat! QD‑3, Stratico ulica 1, tel. (+385‑23) 22 40 10, www.petbunara. com. Open 12:00‑22:30; closed Tue. (85‑245kn). APGBS6

pRoto Food & MoRE Proto is turning heads with its excellent reviews on social media thanks to the all-round experience offered. Informed and friendly staff, simple soothing decor, a Croatian/Dalmatian cuisine with copious portions and at reasonable prices. Open from sunrise to sunset, you may need to book to get a seat here. Check their Facebook site for specials, traditional Thursdays are a hit and the menu is pleasantly diversified with wholesome meat to seafood to burgers to pašticada to gnocchi to risotto and much more.QD‑3, Ulica Obitelji Stratico 1, tel. (+385‑23) 38 64 31. Open 12:00‑22:45. (85‑200kn). APGTBSJK tRAttoRiA CANZoNA Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies. Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC‑3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385‑23) 21 20 81. Open 16:00‑23:00. (65 ‑ 170kn). APG BJ tRAttoRiA MEditERRANEo We like our trattorias to be postage stamp small and dripping in romance, so needless to say we’re all in on Trattoria Mediterraneo. A gorgeous little restaurant in the heart of the old town, Trattoria Mediterraneo is just about as intimate as Zadar gets, serving up gorgeous seafood in an intimate setting defined by the stories that have helped it develop. An extension recently opened across the street, but the initial spot remains as amorous as ever. QC‑3, Medijevaca 4, tel. (+385‑23) 25 44 40. Open 12:00‑ 22:00. (100‑130kn).

ZAdAR - JAdERA A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC‑2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385‑23) 25 18 59, www.zadarjadera.com. Open 12:00‑23:00. (60‑200kn). APGBJ

EtHnic

MAGuRo REStAuRANt & SuShi bAR Asian and Mediterranean fusion at its best! This is the city’s first ever sushi bar offering curry dishes, soups, ramen, sushi, desserts, fish and meat dishes. Special emphasis is on local produce in regards to veggies, truffles and wine. Yet, the highlight is on the local tuna, bred and caught in the nearby Kali tuna farm; it defines much of what this restaurant is all about. QC‑3, Borelli 10, tel. (+385‑23) 31 38 70, www.maguro.hr. Open 12:00‑23:00. (50‑220kn). APGTBJ

itaLian

pAštA & SvAštA This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options. QD‑3, Poljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385‑23) 31 74 01, www.pastasvasta.com. Open 12:00‑23:00; closed Sun. (75‑200kn). APGBJ6 SALSA RoSSA Satisfy your desire for Italian cuisine with delicious pinsas, burgers Italian style and other Italian specialties. You can enjoy your meal on their lovely terrace.QC‑3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385‑23) 25 05 14, www.salsarossa.eu. Open 11:00‑23:00. (40‑120kn). APGB

Lamb

SAbuNJAR Some traditions are very much worth reviving, and if those traditions involve tender-as-anything meat cooked under a hermetically-sealed ash-covered lid, then we’re all aboard this delicious train. Sabunjar is one of the best places in Zadar to taste lamb cooked most traditionally,

so get yourself on the main road to Split and keep an eye out for the Studenac hypermarket; Sabunjar is just across the road.QJadranska 99, tel. (+385‑23) 34 03 55, www. restoran‑sabunjar.hr. Open 07:00‑22:00. (36‑160kn). APGBL tAMARiS Don’t be put off by the visuals, this stuff is delicious. Scratch that, the image of a lamb turning on a spit is part of the experience, and is right up there among the most delectable dishes in this wonderful part of the world. Tamaris is the place to go, a large, modern restaurant in a small three-star hotel. There are other charcoalgrilled specialities, of course, but that lamb is the way to go.QO‑2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385‑23) 31 87 00, www. tamaris‑zadar.com.hr. Open 07:00‑23:00. (75‑250kn). APGUBL6

Pizza

MAMMA MiA Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH‑3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385‑23) 33 42 46, www. mammamia.fullbusiness.com/. Open 12:00‑23:00. (55‑ 255kn). APGTUBS6 tRi buNARA This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB‑3, Jurja Bijankinija 8c, tel. (+385‑23) 25 03 90, www.pizzeria‑tri‑ bunara.com. Open 12:00‑23:00; Sat, Sun 13:00‑23:00. (52‑ 94kn). NPGTBSJ6

Quick Eats

pitERiJA MANtANA Sometimes, you just need some quality pie. Zadar (and Dalmatia on the whole) might not be as pie-obsessed as spots inland but that doesn’t mean you can’t find it, with Piterija Mantana at the top of the table here. Meat, cheese, spinach, potato, it is all here, all prepared fresh and ready for a morning pick-me-up. It is tucked away in a little residential spot outside the centre, but isn’t that where all the best pita places are? QKneza Draškovića 2, tel. (+385‑) 099 378 38 73. Open 10:00‑21:00; closed Sun. (12‑15kn). ti tApAS viNo i piANiNo The sun is shining, the water stretches out in front of you, you’ve got your buddies around you and what seems to be a conveyor belt of gorgeous tapas and wine being served. Does it get any better than that? Spoiler alert, no, it doesn’t. Ti Tapas is tapas magic, a stunner of a spot to enjoy good food and better times. Local wines accentuate the gastronomic innovation displayed in those bitesize morsels of marvellous food. QJurja Bijankinija 8, tel. (+385‑) 097 646 53 88. Open 09:00‑23:00; closed Sun. (40‑90kn). APB

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

VEgEtarian

thE botANiSt Long overdue, Zadar’s first fully vegan and vegetarian restaurant is an utter delight. The food? Delicious, of course, with creativity and love found from the top of the menu to the bottom. That creativity extends to the names of the dishes too, all of which take their names from bizarre and unusual monikers found throughout the animal kingdom. Pigbutt Worm? Boops Boops? Dumbo Octopus? We’ll take one of everything, thanks. QMihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385‑) 092 416 65 74. Open 08:00‑24:00.

ARt KAvANA If you appreciate excellent, imaginative cakes you really must call into this cake shop. The range is frequently refreshed with new creations to suit the season, there are macarons… the problem is deciding what to choose. Cakes are freshly made and beautifully presented. Coffee and cake, that most indulgent of rituals. QE‑2, Bar‑ tola Kašića 1, tel. (+385‑23) 40 08 00, www.art‑kavana. business.site/. Open 07:00‑23:00. APGB CoFFEE & CAKE Since its opening in 2016, the assortment of classic cakes, croissants and desserts offered have become a fav amongst the locals. The added distinction here are the raw cakes that are made and not baked; they are prepped from natural ingredients and they look so scrumptious that few can resist. Choose to dine in or soak up the sun with seating available outdoors.QC‑3, Ulica Braće Vran‑ janina 14, tel. (+385‑) 091 302 81 10. Open 07:00‑23:00; Sun 08:00‑23:00. GBJ dANiCA A sparkling modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of their tasty homemade cakes and pastries made on site. Opposite the National Theatre. QC‑3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385‑23) 21 10 16, www.restorani‑ zadar.hr. Open 07:00‑23:00. July, August open 07:00 ‑ 01:00. APGB doNAt Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB‑3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385‑23) 25 08 29/ (+385‑) 098 917 51 00, www.donatice.hr. Open 08:00‑ 24:00. NPGB FoRuM A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QC‑3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00‑24:00. APGTB GELAtERiA EvA The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat the heat wave and choose your flave! Also at Ante Starčevića 1 (main bus station).QC‑4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385‑23) 69 77 61. Open 07:00‑22:00. 07:00 ‑ 24:00. APGB GuAM Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down. QF‑3, Krešimirova obala 47, tel. (+385‑) 098 981 33 05. Open 07:00‑24:00; Sun 07:30‑24:00. NPB LovRE The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC‑3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385‑23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00‑24:00. NPGB6