Zadar Surroundings

Spending a few days around Zadar If you consider yourself a true devotee to quality food, autochthonic specialties and some added history in between, then we have the ‘do all, know all’ information about the Zadar region which will certainly enrich your gastronomic and travel experience. There are a couple of culinary hot spots you simply have to experience either for their goodish foodish offers or for the historical tales that add to the entire experience.

For a sense of local fiesta outdoor market style, head to the geographical region known as Ravni kotari where a fair with a century-old tradition takes place on the10th of each month, in the town of Benkovac. This is the closest you’ll get to seeing locals from inland Dalmatia at their prime. Sure, there is livestock, handcrafted tools and pottery for sale, but the food offer adds to that indescribable experience. Lamb on the spit is consumed like water in the desert. Local lamb and goat meat is per excellence, take the opportunity to try ‘lamb tripe with peas’ or rooster under the ‘peka’, an iron bell hovered with burning wood and coal. What surely impresses is the homemade bread baked in the ‘peka’, wood oven style; and if you happen to get a snail or two that were baked alongside the bread, you’ve got yourself a winning combination. When going to Ravni kotari, a visit to local winemakers is a definite must. See list ...

Posedarje is a place for lovers of prosciutto. The process of salting and drying meat appeared in Dalmatia under Italian influence as brought by their princes and governors. Nowadays, authentic prosciutto from Posedarje is quite the specific product and it seems that the secret is in the climate. Since this area is a combination of wind and sea, the land and air thrives with salt. The livestock here is therefore primed for quality meat! Once in Posedarje you can see the 15th century Church of the Holy Spirit. There is a stone belfry above the entrance door and a bell is kept inside the church which is only set during mass celebrations. There are no decorations or inscriptions on the bell itself. On the feast day of Pentecost, Posedarje also celebrates its Municipality Day. Pentecost is traditionally celebrated with a boat procession along a nearby island where mass is celebrated next to the Early Romanic Church of the Holy Spirit. This happens to be a true gathering as a large number of pilgrims from all surrounding areas come to celebrate.

Then there is the coastal town of Nin for a taste of šokol which is obtained from pork neck meat. It is treated much like prosciutto; for three to seven days it lays in pure sea salt and is then marinated in red wine and coated with several kinds of spices. The unique aromatic flavours and ingredients of herbs from the Velebit Mountain and the sea air itself affect the drying process and the quality of Nin’s šokol. The Island of Pag is the destination for cheese lovers. From a place called Lun in the north of the island to Povljana in the south, the traditional production of cheese is characteristic of the whole island. The key factor to the success in Pag’s cheese is in its raw content – pure sheep milk native to the island. The other key factor lay in the aging process. Young cheese matures for about five months, while old cheese matures for about a year or more. In order to

produce one kilogram of cheese, six litres of sheep milk is used. Years of perfecting the art of cheese making saw Pag cheese Gligora enter the top 10 cheeses of the world in 2010, and has since received the award for ‘The Best Central and Eastern European Cheese’.

For those who want a real getaway there is the peaceful and quiet island of Premuda. It is adjoined to the tiny islet of Školj which locals have nicknamed Lutrošnjak. For generations they have kept sheep on the islet and built little houses called ‘blago’, which were built in the so-called suhozid (dry wall) technique; stone joined in series without any binding material, and some of which still remain. Sheep were kept on the island during the year and women would make cheese in these little houses, staying there for several days.

If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Monastery of St. Paul the Hermit. The monastery complex was built on the island Galevac (Školjić), situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th century, whilst the construction of the monastery took place during the 15th century. The inventory collection of the monastery consists of more than 56 items. Much can still be appreciated in Zadar with the culmination of natural resources and applied ancient techniques still so highly valued by its citizens today. It is clear that some things truly can stand the test of time!

isLands

Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

dugi otok

Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of

thE uNdERGRouNd towN oF pAKLENiCAi Beneath the breath-taking natural phenomena of the Paklenica Canyon which is home to hikers, mountain climbers and bush walkers, a bunker from the 1950s is still in the renovation phase but is open to the public. At a depth of 80 meters, visitors can face the man made rock climbing wall, watch some multimedia screens on tying knots, rock climbing and the park’s history, as well as see the work park rangers and rescue do before continuing on with their hiking journey.

the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast. If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

duGi otoK touRiSt boARd QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385‑23) 37 70 94, www.dugiotok.hr.

NAtuRE pARK “tELAšćiCA” QSali X 1, Sali, tel. (+385‑23) 37 70 96, www.pp‑ telascica.hr. The working hours of the main entrance to Dolac are from 08:00 to 20:00. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are avail‑ able and on duty 00:00‑24:00 inside park premises. En‑ trance ticket cost 240 ‑ 12000kn depending on the size of the boat. Entrance ticket from the mainland costs 20 ‑ 100kn.

ist & moLat

Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

ZAdAR touRiSt boARd oFFiCE Qtel. (+385‑23) 27 70 21.

This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches.

The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

ZAdAR touRiSt boARd oFFiCE QVeli Iž, tel. (+385‑23) 27 70 21.

Pašman

You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century.

Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http:// fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

pAšMAN touRiSt boARd QPašman, tel. (+385‑23) 26 01 55, www.pasman.hr.

tKoN touRiSt boARd QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385‑23) 28 52 13, www.tzo‑tkon.hr. Tiny Rava is sited between the islands of Iž and Dugi Otok. Shaped like a figure of 8 with two large bays, it has two tiny settlements, about 100 inhabitants, one shop, one rather good restaurant, small coves suitable for swimming and a limited amount of private accommodation. If your aim is to escape far from the madding crowd, peaceful Rava may well be for you.

ZAdAR touRiSt boARd oFFiCE QRava, tel. (+385‑23) 31 61 66.

siLba, oLib & PrEmuda

These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”).

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument – a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.

Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script – the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts – it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic

Rava, Photo by Boris Kačan Dugi otok, Photo by Chiara Veranich

island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

SiLbA touRiSt boARd QSilba, tel. (+385‑23) 37 00 10, www.tzsilba.hr.

ugLjan

That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.

Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

KuKLJiCA touRiSt boARd QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385‑23) 37 32 76, www. kukljica.hr.

pREKo touRiSt boARd QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385‑23) 28 61 08, www. preko.hr.

Photo by Mavar, Nin Tourist Board Archive

toP sigHts

ASSERiA At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.QBenkovac.

LuNJ oLivE GRovE (LuNJSKi MASLENiK) Located in the very north of the gorgeous island of Pag, in the Novalja area, the Lunj Olive Grove stretches over 24 acres and has been intact for centuries making it a true rarity in its own right. There are natural wild olive trees called Olea oleaster linea with more than 80,000 altogether, out of which 1,500 are 1200 years old on average and the oldest is 1600 years old. The Lunj Olive Grove is unique in the world because of the large numbers of old wild olive trees that have remained together for thousands of years. A real gem in Croatia’s proud heritage!

NiN SALt woRKS & ChuRCh oF thE hoLy CRoSS (SoLANA NiN & CRKvA SvEtoG KRižA) The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea – the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. Some of the archeological highlights are located in Nin. Such as the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world.QNin.

pAKLENiCA NAtioNAL pARK The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams,the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available – reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: planinari.paklenica@gmail. com. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.np-paklenica.hr). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities. QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad‑Paklenica, tel. (+385‑ 23) 36 92 02/(+385‑23) 36 91 55, www.np‑paklenica. hr. Ticket 40/60.

SAKARuN - duGi otoK Looking for that picture perfect beach! Then look no further as Sakarun is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Zadar area. It is situated near the towns of Veli Rat, Veruni, Soline and Božava and its white sandy beach stretches 800 meters in length. A string of pine trees surround the beach which also has two eateries. Jump on board the tourist train which leaves Božava and Sakarun every two hours!Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

SALJSKE užANCE The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since 1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.’ In addition, at this unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia. Qwww.dugiotok.hr.

thE NoRthERN vELEbit NAtioNAL pARK With impressive peaks and chasms, karst landscapes and impenetrable forests, the Northern Velebit is a mosaic made up of the most diverse habitats, which is why the Northern Velebit was proclaimed a National Park. The Northern Velebit is an ideal place to visit for an active holiday. Among the best-known locations in the National Park are Zavižan, the Velebit Botanical Gardens, the Premužić Trail, Štirovača, Alan and Lubenovac. Zavižan and Alan have open grassy spaces, thick forests and huge limestone boulders, surrounded by the peaks offering magnificent views of the sea and the Lika region. In the Velebit Botanical Gardens you can enjoy the wealth of the Velebit flora. Štirovača is an area of exceptionally thick forests of spruce and fir and is home to the only wetland in the Park. Lubenac, a spacious Velebit grassland, has numerous ruins of shepherds’ cottages and dry stone walls which bear witness to peoples’ lives in times past. The Premužić Trail traverses the entire Velebit range, passing through incredible karst landscapes, and is an incredible feat of engineering. At Alan you can stay in renovated shepherds’ huts, experience the traditional way of life and learn about the natural environment. The renovation of the huts has made possible the reintroduction of livestock farming as a measure for preserving biodiversity. To lean more and buy entry tickets, Velebit House, open all year, is an information centre located in the village of Krasno. An especial attraction is the experience of entering a chasm using a special “lift”. QKrasno 96, Krasno, www. np‑sjeverni‑velebit.hr.

vRANA LAKE NAtuRE pARK This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The later is only allowed outside borders of the Ornithological reserve which takes up the northern part of the lake. The park is encircled by more than 50 km of bike trails and thus popular among the bicyclists. Biking routes get hilly on the eastern coast of the lake. The visit to the Park makes a nice break from the hubbub of the coast. By purchasing a ticket, visitors have access to the entire Vrana Lake Nature Park, ie the entrance to three info centers: Kamenjak, Prosika and Crkvine. The purchased ticket is valid for one day to visit all locations in the Park. Tickets can be purchased at all three info centers. QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385‑23) 38 31 81, www.pp‑vransko‑jezero.hr/hr/. Ticket 15/70.