A taste of the Highlands

Laura Wood settles down for a night of fine dining at Dipping Lugger, a new restaurant with rooms in Ullapool

Let me tell you about the weekend we decided to jump in the car at the last minute and head to Ullapool. A moment of madness? You might think so but there’s quite a lot to like about this unassuming port town on the edge of Loch Broom on the West Highland coast - Northern lights, Corrieshalloch, gorge, the NC500, Munros to bag, Highland stoneware, the Seafood Shack, and beautiful beaches nearby. Plus, it’s all within a pretty lovely fourhour drive from Edinburgh. What Ullapool was lacking, as so many small Scottish towns and villages are, is contemporary design-led accommodation offering quality modern dining. Then, along came The Dipping Lugger last summer and changed all that.

Based opposite the ferry terminal and the gateway to the Western Isles, The Dipping Lugger is a destination restaurant with three rooms housed in what was previously the parish manse, dating back to 1789. The building oozes historic charm with all its nooks and crannies, low ceilings and wee doors, but it’s all been lovingly restored by owners Robert Hicks and Helen Chalmers (the dynamic duo who own the award-winning Highland Liquor Company distillery and shop situated a couple of streets behind The Dipping Lugger and well worth a visit). They pulled in the heavyweights to realise their vision and contracted renowned designer Eve CullenCornes for the interiors, head chef David Smith, formerly of Boath House in Nairn, to oversee the kitchen, and front of house is the hospitable Calum Robertson who has years of experience behind him in some of Scotland’s best-known institutions. In doing so, they’ve created a luxury Highland retreat with a good dose of

personality that wouldn’t look out of place in Edinburgh or Glasgow.

Open fires and soft lighting are welcoming. Rich tones of red, blue and emerald green, mixed with slate and soft greys and golds are warm and comforting. Bold wallpaper and artwork in the bedrooms offset against the natural colours of the surrounding water and dramatic landscape, and tartan blankets remind you of exactly where you are. As do the Tunnock’s tea cakes, snowballs, and jars of traditional sweets displayed on the shelves in the Sweet Shop – a thoughtful treat to go with a little nightcap in the honesty bar if you’re still feeling the need to indulge after dinner. But, as lovely as the rooms are, it’s the 18-cover restaurant that will become the talk of the town.

Offering a seven-course dinner and four course lunch, this is a restaurant to be reckoned with, and dinner here is reason alone for making the journey to this neck of the woods. The menus showcase the produce the Highlands are famous for, including Ullapool’s incredible seafood, each described only by one word leading to a sense of mystery and intrigue. ‘Hay’, ‘Turbot’, ‘Carrot’, ‘Salmon’ and even ‘Del Boy’, each dish is a work of art. It’s playful but not coincidental and takes you on a gastronomical journey that you’re likely remember for a good time to come.

The Dipping Lugger is doing things differently in the Highlands and it deserves to do well. It’s small and intimate for an overnight stay and the food offering, both at dinner and for breakfast the next morning pack a powerful punch. This place now sits at the top of our things we like about Ullapool list - a ‘must-visit’ for anybody planning a Scottish road trip.

Dinner bed and breakfast for two people starts at £410 per room per night. Rooms are currently open for booking from Thursday to Sunday. Lunch, served Friday to Sunday is £35pp. Dinner is served Thursday to Sunday for £75 per person, with optional wine pairing for £50pp.

The Dipping Lugger, 4 West Shore St, Ullapool, IV26 2UR. To book call 01854 613344 or visit www.thedippinglugger.com