e d a r g p u o t t n a W
T H AT O L D H AT ?
July 2020
PAGE 19
Create a master headpiece from your garden.
T H E G LO B A L MILLINERS NETWORK PAGE 9 An organisation of international milliners embark on a headwrap competition - ďŹ nd out more about the winners!
E XC LU S I V E
with
INTERVIEWS
D E B O R A H S T LO U I S OJ O M A I D E G W U PAGES 7 AND 16 Two remarkable and empowering women talk about their life in business!
Feature Article
THE SECRET LIFE OF A
PA N A M A withH AT the Panama Hat Company PAGE 12
W E LC O M E Dear Readers of The Hat Channel Magazine,
July brings so much; the dawn chorus, sensational views on our morning walks and a feeling of hope as we move forward out of lockdown. Grab your sun hat, shades, your copy of ‘The Hat Channel Magazine’ and you are ready for whatever the day brings.
but not all of the secrets.
Panama hats have a history of their own. Noticed and worn in Panama, the name of these hats has become linked to the wrong country! All will be revealed and the reasons why, explained clearly.
Take a ‘virtual trip’ to Ecuador to find out the true origin of the Panama hat. Woven to high exacting standards, this straw offers the best attributes towards perfection. They are top quality straw hats. Fair trade has been achieved for the weavers with the determination of the founder of The Panama Hat Company, Jenny. She offers an insight into the weavers’ lives and shares her own personal story. There is elegance in the air. Summer is coming, sun
The Global Millinery Network shows us their model to bring women together. Their goal is to offer a platform to encourage and support their members. As a judge to ‘The Headwrap Challenge’, I will share what GMN offers and how they bring joy into their work. Our hats can be fashion statement but don’t forget they offer us protection too.
hats are out. Our designer Mavi adds a twist to the classic hats, as she shows us style in the latest Panama Hat Collections. They come in all shapes and sizes, with a pop of colour and touch of class. Flowers are a joy at this time. The Hats at Home offer a simple guide to create a floral garland for your own hat. Guided by our very own florist, Nina Dales, an exquisite ring of flowers takes the ordinary to the extraordinary. That old hat will be transformed! All hats combine with outfits that we enjoy wearing. When Ojoma Idegwu spotted a gap in the market, she went forward to fill in with her Dear Curves Collection. Our readers hear her in-depth story. Fashion starts with designers and ideas; Deborah St Louis helps these designers make their dreams become a reality. From catwalk to customer, the pathway has many hurdles. Deborah unlocks some
T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M
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E V E R Y H E A D N E E D S H AT. @ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
4
T H E H I S TO R Y O F. . .
T H E PA N A M A H AT
7
SEIZING AN OPPORTUNITY
9
G LO B A L MILLINERS NETWORK
WINNERS OF THE HEADWRAP CHALLENGE
10
12
THE SECRET LIFE O F A PA N A M A H AT
TA B L E O F
CONTENTS COPYRIGHT © 2020 THE HAT CHANNEL LTD. The Hat Channel Mag is published by The Hat Channel Magazine. Editorial: editor@thehatchannel.com | Advertising: sales@thehatchannel.com Telephone: 020 3282 6623 | Website: www.thehatchannel.com Head office: Suite 2, 14 Union Street, Stroud, Glos, GL5 2HE London office: Great Portland Street, London, W1W 7LT No material may be reproduced in any way, or translated, without written permission of the publishers. Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly, but The Hat Channel cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of the publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT. Cover: Hannah Christine Photography | Cover: Model Bettina Mitkova Page 3 & 4 - 5 & 12 - 15: The Panama Hat Company | Page 7 - 8: OJ Dear Curves Page 9 - 10: The Global Milliners Network | Page 16 - 17: Joanna Mitroi Photography Page 19 - 20: Nina Symphony of Flowers
16
T H E L A DY BEHIND THE BRAND
18
T H E L A N G UAG E O F H AT S
19
H AT S AT H O M E . .
T H AT O L D H AT
22
H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON
O N DAV I D B E C K H A M
22
W H AT ’ S NEXT?
THE PA N A M A H AT
H I S TO R Y O F. .
hat they had never seen before. Genuine Panama hats are only made
with Toquilla Palm, this is
president to travel
the fibrous leaves of the
outside the United
Carludovica palmata
States. He
plant. These strands are
was keen
used to weave the fabric
to move
of the hat.
the Panama Canal from an idea to a reality. The
Brisa Weave Technique
One of history’s most
significance of the
famous hats has to be
Panama Canal reached
that worn by President
out to all part of the
Roosevelt on his Panama
world. Trade routes would
The Panama Hat
Canal trip in 1906 — the
change. Roosevelt posed
Companies founder,
Panama hat. Photographs
in a ninth-five-ton Bucyrus
Jenny Froehlich
were taken and sent
steam shovel in his
emphasised that the
round the world. The hat
genuine Panama hat with
weavers bought this
was made in Ecuador and
a wide black head band.
special straw to weave
unknown at this point.
This image was wired
their hoods during the
across the globe showing
week. This is the most
Roosevelt became the
everyone a larger than life
important feature of a
first serving America
silver screen image of a
Panama hat. Weaving
Cuenca Weave Technique
knowledge is passed
a specific form like a
through
fedora, pork pie or
communities and
other familiar hat.
down from generation
The best
to
Panama
generation.
hats are
Each village has a
called
slight different weave.
Montecristis, after the
More intricate weaves
town of Montecristi where
indicate a higher quality
the best straw is grown.
with finer woven fabric. There are multiple processes with two main
A T R I P TO E C U A D O R I S O N E W AY TO BUY ONE, BUT THERE A R E E A S I E R W AY S .
components. One is the weaving while the other is
The last action is to add a
shaping the hat. Once the
wide hatband around the
fibres are woven and
hat. Some claim this is a
made into a cone shaped
mark of respect for the
hood, the edge of the
death of Queen Victoria in
brim is finished with
1901.
intricate back weaving. Everyone loves a genuine
beaten; each process is
Panama hat. A trip to
a different highly
Ecuador is one way to buy one, but there are easier ways.
skilled artisan. The shaping or blocking takes place on a metal or wooden block in
DOES IT FIT YO U R FA C E ? A larger brim will suit a strong body type while a smaller brim will suit someone of a smaller stature. Try on a few different styles and get used to wearing it.
DON’T STICK TO T H E N O R M Keep your look fresh with shapes and colours. Try adding some embellishments for a unique style, or a splash of colour with a bold band.
FIT FOR PURPOSE
Next it is trimmed and carried out by
H O W TO WEAR A PA N A M A Hi AT n yle
The Panama Hat Company brings a little part of Ecuador to us all.
Take a tape measure, find out what head size you are and then choose your hat accordingly - it shouldn’t feel as if it’s too loose or need to be jammed on your head to make it fit.
BE CONFIDENT The great thing about a Panama hat, is that it can be worn with anything. It can be both sophisticated or casual, just be sure to wear it with confidence.
SEIZING AN
OPPORTUNITY A mother shared her passion
the senses from tactile touch,
for fashion design with her
sensory feels, wild patterns,
daughter Ojoma. This grew from a wonderful childhood hobby to a solid foundation
crafted combinations and layered textures. All combined with some Nigerian hand painted designs wrapped in a ring of love. These intertwined
for a
for Ojoma to create her new
business
collection, ‘Inikpi’.
idea. Customers of ‘Dear Curves’ She magnified her
enjoy boutique quality
plans, noticed a gap in the
garments made with elaborate
market and launched her
complex fabrics. A popular
online business in 2013.
leopard print kimono has sold
Her professional journey began and ‘Dear Curves’— her newly founded company — was born.
well due to the comfort and style enjoyed by the wearer. A silk and chiffon wrap around dress offers the wearer a formal or informal look. This outfit can
Her latest fashion collection
be dressed up or dressed
was inspired by a plethora of
down and lasts for years, her
experiences. From poetry to
customers keep their outfits for
travel, each element awakens
multiple wears.
T R Y T H I S LO O K COUPLED WITH A STRIKING BLACK WIDE BRIMMED F E D O R A H AT.
Every garment shines with a touch of glamour. A beautifully tailored gown that gives each
OJ O M A S U G G E S T E D A B L AC K B R E TO N C A P W I T H T H I S LO O K !
while life and colour around us have some influence too. Textures and materials are the final choices. Cutting
curve a touch of
fabrics to fall and cascade are key
elegance. Individual
requirements in design too. This
angles and fold planned
garment is not finished until it is worn.
to show off the customers shape to cascade around the
The wearer makes
body in flattering tucks,
the garment.
stunning pleated and hidden gathers.
According to
A S M A L L F LO W E R FA S C I N ATO R WOULD MAKE THIS THE PERFECT SUMMER PA R T Y O U T F I T.
Ojoma it is all about the story and the
taking steps
The longevity of each
narrative around the
garment supports the
outfits. From the ladies
sustainability issues that
in Nigeria, that hand
face all fashion
paint some designers
production. The route to
to ecological
market is carefully
factories that
monitored with Ojoma
support people
to improve her source
on their journey to
suppliers all the time. Always striving
production, all
towards more ecological materials,
elements are
Ojoma is collaborating with a Danish
important. Clothes
company to produce capsule garments
that are made with
in ever increasing green pieces. Watch
love look fabulous
this space.
and feel magnificent to
‘Dear Curves’ is a British Company
wear. What more
owned and run by Ojoma. She uses her
could
skills to make garments that are special.
we ask for?
This begins with sketching ideas, inspiration comes from a number of areas. Sometimes the fashion of a particular era may give a silhouette,
S H O P AT DEARCURVES.COM
G LO B A L
MILL INERS
The Global Milliners
Network fills a need in the community. With
skills
members across the
from Becky and other
globe, this organisation
members of the group.
has brought like-minded
Professional milliners join
people together.
to build their brand and
The ‘Headwrap
Originating in Nigeria,
to use the platform to sell
Challenge’ has clear rules
Becky, the founder and
their hats, fascinators,
with mind opening
current president had a
turbans and
possibilities. Participants
vision.
hair-accessories. Bespoke
each start with a piece of
pieces can be ordered,
flat fabric. Fabric is
The need to ‘do’
new styles explored and
whisked around the head,
something has never
creations can be
tied, formed and sculpted
been more necessary. Her
transformed from ideas to
to generate a head wrap
community have
reality.
in just one minute. Each
challenging employment
entrant sends in a video
issues. So working with
This growing group is a
of their amazing journey
their hands offers them all
professional voice for
with their creative skills to
a way forward. Becky is a
headwear designers. An
reach their end results. A
highly qualified milliner
elegant place to launch a
public vote takes place.
who runs training courses,
new and innovative
The judges from GMN
offers skills support in the
competition, all members
and across the globe in
group and gives lectures
have the chance to join
Australia and UK critic the
on hat making.
the ‘Headwrap
performances on
Challenge’. This gives
Instagram. Winners have
GMN brings ladies
everyone the same
a voice to share their
together. They have an
starting place.
preparations and
opportunity to learn new
experiences.
2
MRS BALIKIS A B I K E OY E D I R A N
3
Mrs Balikis Abike
MRS. KEMISOLA FA L A N A
Oyediran took us through
the headwrap experience;
Mrs. Kemisola Falana
fold material lengthwise,
shared her headwrap:
fold it again to make it
form a triangle, start from
thin, place the fabric on
the back of the head, turn
the back of the head, tie
it round, tie at the front,
the 2 ends together, twist
tie at the back, it is simple
both ends in front to start
and very fast.
the doughnut, wrap them around to form the design, then push the left
1
MRS.IKECHUKWU R AC H E A L O B I A N U J U
Mrs.Ikechukwu Racheal
Obianuju explained her
winning headwrap: fold the fabric into a triangle and repeat, hold the tips and fold the two ends, roll and roll, tie and fold inside for the head. ‘It’s easy!’ she said.
end under to secure it.
winners
F O L LO W O N I G @ G LO B A L M I L L I N E R S N E T W O R K
HEADWRAP
CHALLENGE
PORTRAIT AND WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHY Wedding photographer with a heart for adventurous and fun loving couples WWW.HANNAH-CHRISTINE.COM
THE SECRET LIFE OF A
PA N A M A H AT
Contrary to our
Ecuadorian
expectations, the Panama
Embassy.
hat does not come from
She was
Panama.
in-charge of Ecuadorian product distribution.
I was fortunate to meet Jenny, the founder of The
Her move to the UK
equation and
Panama Hat Company
opened up new
deal directly with
and Majesa Ltd. Her
opportunities, first
the weavers in Ecuador
daughter Mavi, joined the
importing a number of
to give these skilled
business too and has
Ecuadorian products from
people a good price for
developed her own
bananas to ceramics and
their work. In order to fully
styling strategies. The
later focusing exclusively
understand the process
story goes back over 40
on the hats. She was keen
and the intricate details of
years to a time when
to remove the middle
the skills involved she
Jenny was working at the
men from the business
spent a significant time in Cuenca. Her mission was to have a firm grasp of how she could help them while starting her own business. Over the years, she has improved the lives of the people she works with and keeps a constant eye on their well being, in both their business needs
and their personal
Luton. Later, the hats were
Canal construction
welfare. She takes regular
made for her. When one
commissioned a large
trips to the region and is
company decided to sell
number of hats for their
currently supporting a
their hat machines, Jenny
workers that the Panama
child of a weaver who is
chose to buy them. As
hat was born.
facing blindness by
opportunities arose, she
funding his flights to
took them. Her aim was to
The weaving process is
Quito for help from an
create the best Panama
the key factor in the
eye doctor. Her work has
hats that she could with
Panama hat production.
not gone unnoticed;
the top quality materials.
Taking place in their
Jenny was presented with a World Vision award for Development Initiative in 1995 and she continues
homes, weavers pass on AS OPPORTUNITIES AROSE, SHE TO O K T H E M .
to take her community
the skills through their families from one generation to another. There are two main
work seriously, working
There is only one type of
weaves; the herringbone
with four to five hundred
straw that can be used to
weave, making chevrons
weavers at this time.
weave the fabric of the
in the pattern and the
Panama hat. This straw
very special equal
Her passion for Panama
grows extensively in the
diamond weave. The
hats has taken her further
coastal region of Cuenca.
quality is linked to the skill
and further into the
Weavers began to weave
of the wearer, the finer the
production process. At
these palm centuries ago.
weave the higher the
the start, she sold hoods
It was only when the
quality of the final
to over 30 hat makers in
engineers on the Panama
product. The top level weavers around Montecristi, produce an exceptionally tight weave for the Montecristi hats. It takes four to five months to complete one hood (hat form) in this exquisite
precision business.
here in spiral formation to
Opportunities to
make the rough form of
explore new designs
the hood. The weavers
and to push the
weave the bodies during
boundaries are open
the week.
to them. Mavi has developed some new innovative designs that are very popular with customers. But
THE JOURNEY FROM S T R A W S H O OT S I N A F I E L D TO PA N A M A H AT I S E X T R AO R D I N A R Y.
weave. The very young
classic styles for both men
shoots are bought, by the
and women remain
Washing, cleaning,
weavers themselves,
popular too.
pummelling, pressing and
directly from the fields.
reshaping of the hoods all
Each shoot is carefully
The journey from straw
takes place at the small
washed and cut with a
shoots in a field to
processing factories
finger nail to create an
Panama hat is
before the edge is
even finer strand to weave
extraordinary. Farmers cut
finished by a back
with. The unique nature of
the young straw to sell to
finisher. At this point, it is
the straw offers these hats
the weavers at the local
ready to sell. Hoods are
their ‘Rolls Royce’ status in
market on Sundays.
sold to hatters, wholesale
hat quality. These
Weaving tends to be used
businesses and export
magnificent hats are
to supplement income. It
businesses around the
delicate but durable with
all begins with a button,
world. This is not the end
excellent sun protection.
the straw in woven from
of the road. More work on
Now, with premises, machinery and millinery blocks, some dating back over one hundred years, the Panama Hat Company has positioned its self well, to continue to make quality hats. They have craftsmen to make this a
the hood smartens it up
steaming, hat presses are
through generations in
for the next stage.
used to press the hood
families”. Its shape must
A rough hood is not
into the perfect shape.
be worked to give clean
ready to form a hat. The
Hats have to be sized
lines with the edges
hatters in the small
accurately to create a
finished off in one of a
factories clean them,
distinctive shape. This
variety of ways. No detail
remove imperfections
varies in form from a trilby
is too small.
and stretch these hoods.
to a fedora to a bucket hat
The Panama Hat
and many more
This hat has a unique
Company have perfected
in-between. Each hat is
history before you buy it.
their skills to produce very
worked individually, - with
When you own one you
high quality products.
many buyers wanting a
can unlock a new path
Colour, shape and sizing
hat for life that they can
and create a history of
are all planned. To reach
pass to their children.
your own.
the next level, the hood is
Mavi explains “many of
pressed and prepared for
our customers talk about
the blocking. After
Panamas handed down
S H O P N O W AT PA N A M A H AT S . C O. U K
AS PRETTY AS ROSE PETALS, BLOOMING IN SPRINGTIME. Art Exhibition Canada
Get in touch to discover your next hat creation from Christine’s Atelier Millinery Bringing your imaginations to life in wearable art and design aesthetics
@christinesatelier | christinesatelier.com | info@christinesatelier.com | Stockist: @myqlady
THE
L A DY
BEHIND THE
BRAND An insightful meeting
partnership with her
with Deborah St Louis,
Together, they founded ‘Fashions Finest’.
a renowned event
Beginning in the ‘rag-trade’, on the
planner in the fashion
factory floor, Deborah saw her future in
industry. She shared
fashion. She won a scholarship to study
colleague.
her background, emphasised her
‘Fashion Design’, built up a successful
values, explained her beliefs and
career in modelling and took key
enlighten us on difficulties facing the
organisational decisions in events
fashion industry today.
planning throughout her career.
Her amazing rich resource of skills, her
Her connections and links set her apart
knowledge of the fashion industry and
in the world of fashion. She uses an
experience put her in a strong position
inclusive strategy to select and help new
to launch her own business in
designer and support her teams. Events are structured to help her creative, sometimes struggling designers, models and fashion support teams. Her initial focus has helped new and budding designers reach the next level in their careers. It is a powerful force, starting with a ‘seed’ of encouragement
to watching them ‘fly’. Her efforts include taking all the people involved and match models with designer, hair and makeup teams giving their best efforts to create a unique ground-breaking new ‘look’. Every catwalk step is a launch into the
garment designers who make hats.
future of fashion as we know it. Breaking
These combinations are stunning and
rules, pushing boundaries and taking
take an outfit to a new level.
the trends in the fashion work to the next level.
John Herrera made his debut at Fashions Finest 2015, was noticed by a
She tries to help designers in the tough
fashion scout and now has great
fashion industry. This manifest in so
notoriety in the Philippines. This
many ways; from shows, to
launched his career in both his home
recommendations, to press releases
base and across the globe.
and so much more. Her designers have included some amazing milliners and
This year in the Autumn Winter 2020 Collections, some outstanding designers took centre stage; Karen Gold, Maria Curcic and Caivo to name but a few.
VISIT FA S H I O N S F I N E S T. C O M
THE
L A N G UA G E O F H AT S
WIDE BRIM T H E H OT S U N M O S E Y S
H AT T I E K I N G @ B Y _ H AT T I E _ K I N G
PROUD TO SUPPORT
sara@andersoneducation.co.uk andersoneducation.co.uk +44 (0)1474 815450
UK Boarding School Specialists Offering free impar tial advice and guidance We have visited over 350 UK boarding schools, looking for what is special and unique about each school, we are then able to match this with your child’s strengths, skills and talents.
Our UK Boarding School Exhibitions are popular with local and expat families living in the UAE, Nigeria and Ghana as it gives them the opportunity to talk to heads and find out more about the many benefits of a UK boarding education.
Our UK Boarding School Directory is available from schools and clubs throughout Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Saudi Arabia, UAE and West Africa.
Talk to the boarding school experts
T H AT
O L D H AT ! That ‘old hat’, at the back of the cupboard, in the corner of the drawer or at the bottom of that box may need some T.L.C. As summer approaches, it is an excellent time to find that straw hat or a light sun hat. Step 1: Collect all the flowers and foliage you plan to use.
Step 2: Try out your arrangement a few times.
There are some many possibilities to lift it.
Using flowers is one way
Large blooms tapering to
to change the look. They
small blooms are
give colour and texture to
affective. Equally sized
a tired hat. Use the tones
flora can be dramatic too.
to explore the shades
Even small petit flowers
around the hat. Just place
bunched together add
the floral pieces on the
elegance in an
brim of the hat before you
understated way.
start to fix them together. Step 3: Ensure the stems of the foliage is about 8cm and start wrapping the wire around.
Move hues until you are
Silk flowers can be wired
happy with the
together with a series of
combinations of the
twists and turns. Fresh
flower groups.
flowers will create a sensation. This is short
Step 4: Keep adding wire and leaves until it is the circumference of the hat.
Look at the size of each
lived. It must be made
bloom. There are a
and worn on the same
number of ways to
day. Take care to remove
progress around the hat.
large pollen laden
stamens. The pollen will
Add bunches of blooms
permanently stain your
and space them at
hat!
intervals into a spectacular garland. Make
Our expert florist, Nina
the floral display a little
Dales at Symphony of
larger than the bottom of
Flowers recommends
the crown of the hat to
bending a small section
hold it in position.
Step 5: Add flowers inbetween leaves using wire.
of wire first and laying it alongside the stem of the
New floral garlands can
first leaf. Using a large leaf
be swapped around to
first to cover the wiring
different hats. You can
(there’s about 8cm
make up a variety of floral
underneath the ivy leaf)
decorations. Each one is
and binding round.
unique. Hold your head
Step 6: Add as many flowers as you like along the length of the garland.
up; your hat is adorned Carefully pulling the
with a circle of love.
second leaf to the side and slotting in your flower. Then use the same binding technique as the leaves. Then put the second leaf back where it was to cover the wiring. Making a little loop and binding the end. Putting the other end through the loop and binding it, once on the hat. Cover with largest leaf. Create small bunches of flowers before fixing them into the leafy ring.
F O L LO W O N I G @ S Y M P H O N YO F F LO W E R S
Step 7: Wrap around the circumference of the hat and tighten with the wire.
Mavi and Jenny at Majesa extend their best wishes to the Hat Channel and wish it many years of readership and success!
Panamas are are made from thethe natural Toquillapalm palmand and it takes several for skilled Panamas made from naturalfibres fibresof ofthe the Paja Paja Toquilla it takes several daysdays for skilled Ecuadorian craftspeople to to make one skillswhich which have remained unchanged Ecuadorian craftspeople make onehat hatusing using traditional traditional skills have remained unchanged for for centuries. Majesa/The Panama Hatcompany company founded founded by born Jenny Froehlich has has beenbeen centuries. Majesa/The Panama Hat byEcuadorian Ecuadorian born Jenny Froehlich buying panama straw from around 500 self employed weavers in Ecuador for over 30 years and now runs runs buying panama straw from around 500 self employed weavers in Ecuador for over 30 years and now daughter Mavi.The Thecompany company has selection of Panamas in Europe the company withwith herher daughter Mavi. hasthe thewidest widest selection of Panamas in Europe the company covering over 200 colours and every panama weave quality. The hat making team in Luton block, cut, covering over 200 colours and every panama weave quality. The hat making team in Luton block, cut, edge, bind and trim small batches of panamas using traditional hat making machinery to the highest edge, bind and trim small batches of panamas using traditional hat making machinery to the highest standards. As Jenny says "Every panama is a work of art made by at least 7 craftspeople and many many standards. As Jenny says "Every panama is a work of art made by at least 7 craftspeople and many many stages....they dont know how clever they are !" stages....they dont know how clever they are !"
H AT S S E E N THIS SEASON
m a h k c e B d i v a on D
©IN STA GR AM
/ @DAV IDB EC
VIDB ECK HAM ©IN STAG RAM / @DA
KH AM
E N JOY T H IS E N G L IS H S U MME
R!
AN OTH ER DAY, AN OTH ER HAT!
©IN STA GR AM
/ @DAV IDB EC KH
AM
V B LO V E S M Y H AT !
W H AT ’ S
NEXT? King of cool and successful music mogul, Roy Smoothe, gives us the backstage gossip on his infamous brand campaigns. We meet owner of Julian Garner Millinery, Christopher Garner who reveals how he transforms clients in an elegant and yet truly unique way . Irina Bragin from Made of Carpet gives an exclusive interview into how her modern vision has created a global demand.
