THE MAD
HATTER PHILIP WRIGHT
interview with SAMANTA
BULLOCK
get creative PAPER SCULPTURES LEARN ABOUT THE
HISTORY OF THE
HOMBURG HAT
FOLLOW
SEPTEMBER 2020 @ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
W E LC O M E Dear Readers,
Dialogues are the windows into the future. You are all very important to me. Your support and enthusiasm are very much appreciated. An opportunity to link some of you together is a joy.
As we move forward with tentative steps, it is vital that our wellbeing is supported. Mental health is a central component for this. If we feel good, our confidence increases and we perform better in every aspect of our lives. Trying to be the ‘best version of ourselves’ feels right. How we achieve this is individual. Hats are a great way to take a step into the unknown. Wear your hat and own your look. Play with the angle, every face is different. Explore accessories in your wardrobe. Adding a textured layer to a hatband changes the look. Slip a narrow belt around a hat to build up layers. There are so many possibilities.
classic timeless shapes. An edgy style will last for years, support our environment andit will take you to so many new places. Who knows what the future will bring... A hat and mask to match, tone or contrast will be a necessity in the foreseeable future. Take time to pick a tailored mask, check out Savile Row Masks and keep ahead of the wave in terms of style.
You may be persuaded to try a hat in your business arena too. Of course you can consider your brand identity and what the values are that you hold dear in your own business. The autumn will begin to show. Leaves will take on the start of their yellow hues. Fields change colour and our wardrobes are moving towards warmer fabrics. A new hat may be on the horizon. Look at
T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M
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B E T H E B E S T V E R S I O N O F YO U. @ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
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THE MAD H AT T E R PHILIP WRIGHT
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PA P E R M AG I C
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H AT S AT H O M E . . .
W E N E E D YO U
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O U R ‘ G O TO ACCESSORY’ FOR 2020
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T H E L A N G UA G E O F H AT S
TA B L E O F
CONTENTS COPYRIGHT © 2020 THE HAT CHANNEL LTD. The Hat Channel Mag is published by The Hat Channel Magazine. Editorial: editor@thehatchannel.com | Advertising: sales@thehatchannel.com Telephone: 020 3282 6623 | Website: www.thehatchannel.com Head office: Suite 2, 14 Union Street, Stroud, Glos, GL5 2HE London office: Great Portland Street, London, W1W 7LT
No material may be reproduced in any way, or translated, without written permission of the publishers. Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly, but The Hat Channel cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of the publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDIT. Cover: Ian Nancollas Images | Page 4, 6 & 23: Philip Wright Hats | Page 5: Watermark Photo Page 7: Fotogold Creations | Page 10 - 13: Alex Thraves Page 15: Dr Kieron & Vicky Cooney | Page 16: Karen Christie’s Design Page 17: Dr Kieron Cooney & his Celtic band ‘The Wight Hot Pipes’ Page 18 - 20: Samanta Bullock
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R AT T Y TAT H AT S
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NO BOUNDERIES
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H I S TO R Y O F. .
T H E H O M B U R G H AT
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SUBSCRIBE & S AV E
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W H AT ’ S NEXT?
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MAKE A SPLASH
PHILIP WRIGHT A real live
images that light up the
debonair
wearer and a special
mad
selection of silhouettes to
hatter, a
choose from.
generous helping of
In the depths of Luton,
the theatrical
near Luton Football Club
talent, lashings of the
and just down the road
charisma, oodles of hat
from Hatters Way, the last
experience as he takes his
working hat factory sits
customers on an
nestled in the centre of
Philip has hat knowledge
individual, spectacular
the city. The railway and
in his blood. Four
‘hat experience’.
packing business were
The Essence of Luton
generations of hat makers, he grew up with hats, played on the shop
A REAL LIVE DEBONAIR MAD H AT T E R .
floor and has taken the art of hat making to a
His passion takes
new level. Surrounded by
the process
history, rubbing
forward; he
shoulders with other
pushes the
craftsmen, Philip found
boundaries,
his passion ran deep into
explores the
the ‘world of hats’.
possibilities and challenges
He has personal stories,
expectations. The
rich background
end result is
knowledge and amazing
extraordinary. A
skills.
free dress up,
close too. This was positioning for the best
performance possible.
solely for hats.
Hats were made in the
A lot of other
factory, packed and
hat factories,
transported by rail.
at the time, were a
It all began as a love story.
combination
Boy meets girl and falls in
of residential
love. The daughter in the
and hat
straw hat business lost her
production.
heart to a Swedish felter.
The buildings
Walter Wright came from
were homes at
a felt hat making family
the front with
who were expelled from
a factory
Europe because of their
constructed
Huguenots routes. His
on the back.
sweetheart, Minnie-Susan
Their new hat factory was
was the eldest daughter
purpose built to house
More and more hats were
of a Hertfordshire family
the machinery. They
produced.
with established skills in
bought state of the art
the local industry. Their
equipment to give them
Like most family
story reflects romantic
the best quality hats.
businesses, the hat
excitement, they decided
Some of this original
business continued as
two hours after their
machinery is still on the
their children took over.
wedding, to set up their
factory floor.
Hat wearing was very
own hat factory.
popular. The hat business The couple combined
was thriving. The factory
their skills to make hats all
used high quality
year round. The straw hats
materials to give their hats
were worn in the summer
the edge. A ‘top-down’
while the felt ranges were
system was designed for
A purpose built factory
for the colder winter
efficiency. The top floor
was their dream. They
months. Based in Luton,
was used for blocking,
planned their hat
the hub of hat making,
stiffening and dying. The
production space to be
their business grew.
specialist machines were
IT ALL BEGAN A S A LO V E S TO R Y.
positioned on the second
factories was
floor while finishing took
remarkable. All
place on the first floor.
the other
Finally, storage was on the
industries were
ground floor. When
located in the
production was at its
vicinity too. It
peak, the finished hats
was the global
would be sent through a
centre for hats.
trap door on the first floor to a waiting horse and
World War One
cart for the next stage of
and World War
the hats journey to
Two heralded
market. Other hats were
the decline of
stored on the ground
the hat industry.
floor awaiting their own
Walter Wright
transportation.
took over the running of the
H AT W E A R I N G WAS VERY POPULAR.
Luton railway station was
factory when
much larger than required
Philip Walter Wright’s
for the town, due to the
health declined. Walter
staff. As a keen supporter
volume of hat production.
reacted quickly to
of Luton Football Club, his
In the 1930s Luton
changing demands in hat
involvement gave them
produced over 70 million
wearing and managed to
their name ‘The Hatters’
hats each year. The
keep the business going
adding to his care of the
density of the hat
for himself and his 1000
community.
When Philip took over from his father, he focused on small runs and some new creative collections. His catwalk collections turn heads and demonstrate his design skills, with additional opportunities for customers to discuss their hat options at his bespoke consulting boutique showcases.
look. His talent to express
become an iconic piece in
new ideas in an individual
every customer’s new hat
He is an artist who uses
way are paramount to the
collection. His hats tell a
hats to give the wearer a
final outcome, every hat is
story in a three -
unique, new, dramatic
a creation and will
dimensional form. No two hats are quite the same. Reflecting on the future, Philip hopes to use his factory space as a place for creative people to use and explore their own ideas. He points out that there is nowhere for individuals at the start of their journey. His legacy is to create this space for these new projects with his daughter. V I E W M O R E AT
P H I L I P W R I G H T H AT S . C O. U K
PAPER
MAGIC
Paper exists in our lives. It
FOR THIS CRAFT
you will need:
the other three loops to create symmetry. The next
S H E E T S O F PA P E R Thin card/paper/magazine images/newspaper/ wrapping paper
sizes (28cm) are placed
PENCIL, RULER AND SCISSORS
Each size stacks up to the
D O U B L E S I D E D TA P E O R F O L D M A G I C TA P E
FOLLOW THE GUIDE
on top to build up layers. smallest loops. The final action is a centre. This could be a
seems inconsequential
Cut eight 1cm by 30cm
button, a flat coil of chord,
until it runs out. As the
strips of paper. Repeat
twine or string on a 1cm
printed word, writing
this at 28cm, 26cm, 24cm
card disc or a piece of
paper, wrapping paper
and 22cm with the same
discarded or broken
and in the bathroom, it
1cm width. So that there
jewellery.
cannot be ignored!
are now 8 strips of each length. Cut a 3cm circle,
Your paper magic can be
Reusing paper is a
the diameter is 6cm with a
sewn or pinned to a hat or
brilliant way forward. Of
mark the centre.
headband.
course, there are the obvious ways but I took a
Take one of the longest
trip to the Movement
strips, fold them in half.
Studio in Berkhamsted to
Using double sided tape
meet Katie to open up
attach the open ends
our possibilities with
together. Using another
paper. Using just a 30cm
piece of tape, position
square she created a
this paper loop facing out
delicate paper form for a
so that it fits round the
head hugging hat, an
middle of the centre and
addition to a headband
stick securely. Place the
and a hat decoration.
second loop opposite like the hands of a clock at six
.....she created a delicate
o’clock. Take the next
paper form.
three loops and space evenly on one side and
‘THE GRACE AND STYLE’ CO. Come to Manthe for a Bespoke Style Consultation for both Ladies & Gents Awaken your potential to make an immediate impact. First impressions are lasting.
Get in touch with Manthe today “Fashion fades ... style is eternal.” ~ YSL.
@the_grace_and_style
HATS AT HOME
FOR YOU D O YO U H AV E A N I D E A O F O U R H AT S AT H O M E S E C T I O N ?
Let us know, and you could make a contribution. We would love to see you add your own flair to our ‘Hats at Home’. Create a stir in the repurposing scene. Work with Tricia and collaborate. There are so many scenarios. You choose the one that works for you.
G E T I N TO U C H W I T H T R I C I A O N H E R S O C I A L C H A N N E L S
@ H ATC H A N N E LT V
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
OUR ‘GO TO ACCESSORY’ FOR 2020
No one expected the ‘gangster look’ to catch on. But face coverings are now an essential part of our lives. Masks are here to stay. Wesley Mendy and his team turned their business around. He saw an opportunity to take a face covering from a mask to cover the face to a luxury item that adorns the face. As a keen fashion trend setter, he wanted his masks to reflect the suave look of his customers. These are no ordinary mask. Using top British tailors, they have crafted a mask that fits the face. There are three sizes and the possibility to further fit your face with support over the phone. An opportunity to buy masks that fit our children too.
...HE WANTED HIS M A S K S TO R E F L E C T T H E S U AV E LO O K O F H I S C U S TO M E R S .
Each step of the journey has been meticulous. He did extensive market research on the fabrics.
His team worked with the
offer the reduced spread
A range of masks are on
shape to develop a
of the corona virus. This is
offer from the everyday
comfortable mask. Tailors
not a medical grade
ones to really special
are led by a chief tailor
protection but gives a
occasions and everything
with exacting and high
barrier. These designs are
in-between. A budget
standards. Savile Row
face fitting and offer a
mask is beautifully made
offers top quality. He
neat line on the face.
in strong, dense durable
wanted to keep his masks
cotton to masks that are
made in the UK. As he
Wes has used popular
finished with a trend
explained, we need to
styles with a classic edge.
setting image linked to
employ our people here
Each one has an iconic
glamour and style. All
in Britain. Our product is
look. Based on images
these masks are tailored
British made with quality
from the past: from
and streamlined to give
materials by skilled British
Gregory Peck and Audrey
the wearer an designer
craftsmen, a truly British
Hepburn, to the famous
look to their outfits of the
product.
with Ali Mac Graw and
future. From high end
Sidney Poitier to current
glamour to daily wearing,
The masks have been
trend setters like David
masks are structured and
designed under the WHO
Beckham and VB who
cool.
(World Health
might choose to wear a
Organization) guidelines.
mask now. All hat wearers
Three breathable layers
with an eye on style.
A T R U LY B R I T I S H P R O D U C T.
Washable masks make sense. As Angela Rippon mentioned recently, ‘Pay a little more and
you will make savings in the long run’. These are a green solution to a difficult problem. Choosing masks that make you WHERE DID THEY G E T T H AT M A S K ?
feel good are so much better than just a fabric covering for the face. Twenty different
T H R E E B R E AT H A B L E L AY E R S O F F E R T H E REDUCED SPREAD OF COVID-19
designs feature in the current range. From
to choose a mask
market research results,
that suits them.
patterns and fabrics were
Like a suit, these masks fit
picked. Wes explained
the face, form part of the
formal fedora all need an
that the range has been
face and add some
accompanying mask.
chosen by popularity with
mystery. Even glasses
Each combination is
favourites like the fabric
have been ‘road tested’.
unique to the wearer.
weight, the pattern and
Glasses that steam up are
Everyone is looking for
colour all contributing to
such a nuisance. Where
protection with comfort
did he/she get that mask?
and a splash of style.
FROM HIGH END G L A M O U R TO DA I LY WEARING, MASKS ARE STRUCTURED AND COOL.
Taking a hat and mask image together offers the wearer something new. The hat profile with the
the final decisions.
face form a fashion
Now Savile Row Masks
statement for the future.
are making their mark in
From a causal baker boy
the market. Everyone has
cap and mask to a more
E V E R YO N E I S LO O K I N G F O R P R OT E C T I O N W I T H COMFORT AND A SPLASH OF STYLE.
V I E W M O R E AT
S AV I L E R O W - M A S K S . C O M
‘ P U L L T H E R A B B I T O U T O F T H E H AT ’ - to do something surprising and seemingly impossible
‘TITFER’ - cockney rhyming slang for hat
‘ PA S S T H E H AT ’ - to collect money from a group of people for a specific purpose
‘ TA K E YO U R H AT O F F TO ’ - admire someone or something
THE
L A N G UAG E O F H AT S
‘ O H M Y H AT ! ’ - expression of extreme emotion
R AT T Y TAT lush fabrics all cascade
Enquires from
Steam Punk is a
from baskets in Karen’s
the public as she
Neo-Victorian styled
studio, nestled near the
showcased her riding
expression linked to the
hills of County Down.
were constant. No one
literature of Jules Verne
From her successful
could buy what she had
and H. G. Wells.
carriage driving career,
created. A seed was sewn;
Originating in the 1970s,
she discovered a gap in
she decided to start her
using the fantasy flying
the market. Needing top
own business. The name
machines and mechanical
hats for her
vehicles conjured up in
display
stories of the era, this
driving, she
group emerged.
couldn’t
Influenced by the fashion
find the top
at the beginning of the
hat she
twentieth century a top
wanted.
hat and goggles all
This was
mixed into the industrial
not an
revolution set the scene.
issue, having
Imagine being
trained in
surrounded by the past.
millinery
Pocket watches, pieces of
skills, she
bric-a-brac feather,
just made it
antique treasure,
herself.
magnificent ribbons and
came to her in the early
essence of the wearer.
wee hours. ‘Ratty Tat Hat’, her followers are called
These links weave
the ‘Ratty Tatters’ who
through heritage, touch
fondly call her hats
location, take a look at
‘Pocket Watch Hats’.
interests and are
Her business took off.
sprinkled with passion. It
With interest from Steam
is not a formula,
Punk groups, Morris
characteristics, friends,
Dancers and other
the situation all play a part
enthusiasts she has gone
in the final creation.
from strength to strength.
An exquisite scarlet top
Customers love her hats
hat, ‘Curtain Call’, was
and come back for more.
made for an actress. It
One local fan has bought
reflected her heritage, her
a stunning 16 hats, each
family and her life. A
hat is a work of art, her
vintage map, a White
collection is both eclectic
Rose of Yorkshire, some
and unique.
frosted glass with flags.
POCKET W ATC H H AT S .
Karen described this piece as, ‘A marriage made in heaven.’ Coupled
Every hat is bespoke and
with flamboyant feathers,
carefully crafted with a
the hat was complete.
special arrangement in the significant
Karen meets with her
embellishments on the
customers in person or
hat. Starting with a wool
online. She chats in a
felt hood for the hat. She
comfortable setting to
uses her skills to block top
find out about their life.
hats, tall crowned top hats
The result is findings that
and dead man top hats.
define the character of
Each hat is individually
her customer. Her trade
named. She captures the
mark is to include a piece
of an antique pocket
transforms. Like a
watch. This formation
chrysalis to a
reflects their essence on
butterfly, when
their top hat. She sends a
the hat is finished
design drawing to
it takes Karen’s
confirm that the customer
breathe away.
is happy. Karen explains,
Her customers
‘It’s easy to pair people
cry with joy, when
with hats’.
their eyes lock on
HER ’MAGPIE’ TENDENCIES SERVE HER WELL.
@ W I G H T _ H OT _ P I P E S
their new hat. The magnificent new hat moves from the creator
A final design feature is
to the proud new
created on the hat. Her
owner.
’magpie’ tendencies serve her well. She has amassed
Another part of
a collection of antique
this top hats’
trinkets; from vintage
adventure. They
beads to leather off cuts
travel all over the
and everything in
world. Participate
between. This formation
in the famous
may include miniature
‘Burning Man
bottles, quill pens,
Festival’ in the Nevada
goggles, copper wires,
Desert. Dash down the
performed in great
tubes, and cogs textured
M5 to Glastonbury. Take
splendour with a Ratty Tat
materials, rich taffeta and
trips to Steam Punk
Hat. They are works of art.
dogtooth fabrics. The
Conventions and come to
They live in beautiful hat
pocket watch face
the largest Steam Punk
boxes ready for their next
completed the look. A hat
Festival in the world in
outing. (The hats not the
band and feathers were
Lincoln at the end of
band!)
prepared without glue. As
August. The headline act,
each layer is stitched on
Dr Kieron Cooney with his
by hand, the hat
Wight Hot Pipes band
V I S I T A N D S H O P AT R AT T Y TAT H AT S . C O M
Representation for the whole
venture when she realised that there was a gap in
population was lacking.
the market. She could not
She strives to create a
find garments for herself.
legacy in the powerful
More accessible clothes
steps she takes to ‘make a
for customers that are
difference in the world’.
sitting all day were her first design challenge. All
H E R M I S S I O N I S TO BRING PEOPLE TO G E T H E R .
her clothes offer flexibility. Openings that facilitate easy dressing are important. Some clothes
Para-athlete Samanta
Her aim is to offer
have zips on the shoulder,
Bullock is a very special
inclusion for all. Key
opening and fastening at
fashion designer. She is
elements in her designs
the front, no harsh
surrounded by creatives
give her customers
buttons or bands to dig
that hold a passion in
choices on what to wear.
into the body. These
their hearts, compassion
Styling for comfort is a key
designs are essential for
in their actions and live
features in her work.
some people and useful
by the same caring values
Strong sustainability
for everyone.
as herself. Love is their
credentials are essential.
‘secret weapon’.
A perfect combination for
The BeKoffee Collection
the foundation of her new
in Portugal makes
Her mission is to bring
developments is required.
jewellery for inclusion.
people together. She
Adaptive designs are the
They created some
offers a variety of
way forward.
magical pieces with a
solutions to problems faced in everyday life.
delicate message hidden Samanta began this
from view with positive,
passionate Braille
that support their
messages etched into
customers.
them. These hidden words are clearly visible in their use of dynamic
O N E I N C LU S I V E S T E P AT A T I M E . . .
communication for visually impaired people
More companies are
in the form of Braille,
wanted to fulfil the
centred on meaningful
needs of the customers.
semantic messages. This
Everyone is included.
truly reflects the values of
Her work knows no
all the brands working
boundaries. New brands
together.
are welcome to join Samanta’s quest for full
Her brand wants
inclusion. A rich
customers to have a
community of all shapes
variety of choices. She
and sizes, with no
aims for clothes which are
gender limits, just a
beautiful and stylish. If a
passion to live life as the
customer cannot find
best version of
clothes to fit, they fill out
themselves.
an online form. They explain their ‘pain’ and
All customers’ needs are
Samanta with her
recognised, sizes are
designers look for and
supported, gender is
find a solution. One
acknowledged while
inclusive step at a time,
both their values and
the team adds garments
the companies working
with Samanta are aligned.
add to the green
No stone is left unturned
credentials of the final
for their client based
products.
needs, to add value to the experience for each
The process only works as
individual.
designer groups work
Sustainability is at the
towards the goals.
heart of her choice of
Samanta explained that it
brands.
would be impossible to do this alone. Our
A L L C U S TO M E R S ’ NEEDS ARE RECOGNISED
strategy is a step towards our goal together. We need to make changes in
Another outfit Samanta
our society and get
suggested was a soft long
Samanta will only work
everyone onboard one
black dress. The skirt is
with companies that have
garment at a time.
busy with a full hem
a significantly sustainable approach. Some
edging; this gives a good Hat Cameo
companies use rescued
cover for the legs of a wheelchair user. A
fabric. This limits supply,
Samanta suggested a
pleated, cascading
but supports the
jumpsuit by Caroline
fascinator would work
environment. Each brand
London. The trousers and
well to balance and
has a difference
tops zipped together.
support the look.
ecological footprint, with
Different materials,
the use of natural fibres
various colours with a final
including vegan leather,
combination of green top
organic cotton and fabrics
and grey trousers would
created with fabric waste
work well for a look. A hat
to identify a few
would be difficult for the
examples. Many more
wearer in a wheel chair,
areas are followed in
but a deep wide hair
support of this cause from
band in grey or green
manufacturer to use of
would complement the
discarded materials all
outfit to perfection.
L E A R N M O R E AT
S A M A N TA B U L LO C K . C O M
T H E H I S TO R Y O F. . . HOMBURG H AT wearing his new hat
created a stunning
design.
silhouette.
A masterful shape, the
The Homburg was also
Made from a stiff felt
Homburg hat was made
worn by Kaiser Wilhelm II
crown with a very
to last.
as his hunting hat.
pronounced dent in the
Fashioned in green, this
centre, running from front
Worn by distinguished
German hat was exactly
to back, called a ‘gutter
Prime Ministers; John
the same as the
crown’, the Homburg was
Major, Harold Macmillan,
Homburg.
Winston Churchill to name but a few.
The new trend found the
This German design
Homburg
turned heads and
reaching new
became very popular.
heights as formal
Later, Edward VII ordered
dress. Dark
this same hat when
colours were
visiting a state of the art
popular as more
hat factory, Möckel near
and more men
Bad-Homburg. A hat
bought this hat
made popular in 1890 by
for their hat
Edward, the Prince of
collections to go
Wales, eldest son of
with their top
Queen Victoria after a trip
hats and flat
to a spar in Bad-Homburg
caps. Something
in Germany, came back
different that
A H AT M A D E POPULAR IN 1890 BY EDWARD VII.
a strong hat. A distinctive
disappeared. No one
small brim edged this
wears one now and a
hard crown with the brim
Homburg is only
turning in to create a
defined as an item of
‘kettle curl’.
headwear in historical archives.
. . .TO C R E AT E A ‘ K E T T L E C U R L’.
They are rare and sort-after vintage pieces.
The Homburg was finished with a petersham
Wait a moment, our
ribbon for the band and
Luton Hatter, Philip Wright
completed with a flat
makes and wears this
bow.
unique Homburg hat.
Sadly, the Homburg Hat
A relic from the past ... the
went out of fashion and
hat not the Hatter!
S A D LY, T H E H O M B U R G H AT WENT OUT OF FA S H I O N A N D D I S A P P E A R E D.
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V I S I T T H E H ATC H A N N E L . C O M TO S I G N U P N O W
W H AT ’ S
NEXT? Edwina Ibbotson is a fantastic British Milliner with amazing skills. Her hats reach award winning heights. Sort after by her clients and treasured in hat collections, an Ibbotson piece is coveted by its owner. Christine Atelier is an exquisite milliner. Heads turn for her hats. She uses shape, colour and style to create memorable headwear. Each silhouette is an image to remember. Lindy Lou is a remarkable actress and model. Her journey onto the stage began late in life. She takes us on the journey toward her success. The obstacles she had to overcome and her strategic plan. A look at hats used in Mini Racing. We will share some racing experiences. Take a trip round the track and reflect on the highs and lows of being a ‘petrol head’.
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Why are all men’s hats named while very few ladies hats ever had names?
@thebristolfashionshow
@ T H E H AT H I S TO R I A N
Men’s hats were blocked by hatter giving them a distinct shape. Further hats were made in the exact block making the hat form regular and clear. More hats were made the same. In contrast, ladies’ hats were designed by milliners. These hats varied in shape and style. The lack of consistency in the final shape may have been part of the reason for less names linked to their hat shapes.