The Hat Channel Magazine

DA N C I N G Q U E E N How WW1, the Industrial Revolution a n d t h e R o a r i n g Tw e n t i e s changed fashion f o re v e r

THE BIRTH OF THE BONNET Ever wondered how the bonnet came into fashion?

T H E TA L E O F T H E TO P H AT Step back in time to t h e h a t ’s b e g i n n i n g s

W E LC O M E Hello and welcome to the very first edition of The Hat Channel Magazine!

I am passionate about everything to do with hats and fashion. As an experienced milliner and hat historian, I have researched and studied hats from all over the world; everything from the Russian ushanka to the American baseball

cap, to the Cossack papakha hat and the British top hat. I can share the story of almost any hat – just you name it!

I really hope you enjoy reading The Hat Channel Magazine. I look forward to sharing my knowledge and helping you to make stories with your own hats.

DESIGNER – AMY LEAT | WRITER & EDITOR – MELISSA SNOW | CONTRIBUTOR & PUBLISHING EDITOR – TRICIA HAMILTON

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DA N C I N G Q U E E N

THE BIRTH OF THE BONNET

T H E L A N G U AG E O F H AT S

COPYRIGHT © 2020 THE HAT CHANNEL LTD. www.thehatchannel.co.uk Published by iPlus Marketing media@iplus.marketing 01684 438 847 Canterbury Business Centre 18 Ashchurch Road Tewkesbury GL20 8BT

COMING SOON A dedicated video channel exploring the world of hats – from the history to how to wear hats and current trends in fashion, plus exclusive interviews!

Stay tuned for our first video, you are not going to want to miss it!

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Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to ensure that adverts and articles appear correctly, but The Hat Channel cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of the publication.

The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor.

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D I D YO U KNOW? In 1797, John Hetherington first wore the silk top hat out in public. But did you know that he was arrested for disturbing the peace? Ladies were screaming, and people were running around and shouting.

In the 21st Century, we would call this “brand awareness”!

T H E TA L E O F T H E

TO P H AT The top hat has a tumultuous history.

First introduced in the 1700s, the dramatic silhouettes created by the top hat allowed men to stand out from the crowd. Hatters fused together 3 distinct processes to form a new Top Hat: the art of felting, the process of tanning pelts and the skill of blocking animal skins.

From 1800-1850, the top hat became synonymous with everyday life. Working class men wore rabbit fur top hats, with the upper classes adorning plush silk top hats. Everyone began to wear them – from policemen and postmen, to military personnel and funeral directors.

As a consequence of WW1, the supply

of plush silk began to run out, and so a new grey wool felted top hat was created to fulfil the demands of Ascot Racing. Today, top hats are still worn during formal occasions including prestigious horse racing events, weddings and funerals.

D I D YO U KNOW? Lewis Carroll featured the top hat in ‘Alice in Wonderland’ by creating the Mad Hatter. But did you know that the character was named after the "mad", mercury-poisoned hatters of the time?

Hatters utilised mercurous nitrate to produce top hats, and the fumes were said to have sent them mental!

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DA N C I N G Q U E E N

The ever-changing nature of 19th & 20th Century politics and culture demanded significant changes in fashion. The Industrial Revolution, World War One and the Roaring Twenties all had a major part to play in the headgear of the time.

THE INDUSTRIAL R E V O LU T I O N Throughout the 19th Century, the Industrial Revolution dramatically altered living standards.

Extreme poverty and child labour contrasted with the elegance and sophistication of high society. Edward VII reigned over Great Britain, as his people evolved and adapted to change. During the era, hat collections continued to grow. Men would not leave the house without a hat perched on their head, and the church demanded its patrons to

wear hats during Sunday service. Women wore figure-hugging dresses, complete with complementary accessories and headwear.

The top hat adorned the head of the aristocratic gentleman – with a smooth, high-shine finish, this jet-black showstopper regularly made heads turn. The newly manufactured black taxis accommodated the gentleman and his top hat, as the cabs’ high roofs did not require removal of the hat. The top hat was worn during social gatherings and other public pursuits; only when the gentleman stepped indoors would he remove his hat.

Bowler hats allowed businessmen to look even more distinguished.

This unique hat featured a solid, rounded crown with a small brim. Also known as the coke hat, after the inventor’s name, the hat was virtually indestructible.

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Notorious gangs began to emerge throughout the Industrial Revolution.

The Peaky Blinders were born out of Birmingham: a violent gang who regularly committed petty crimes and disturbed the peaceful city streets. In order to distinguish themselves from the “lowlifes” around them, the gang wore tailored suits and Peaky Blinders caps, and carried weapons in the peaks of their caps.

During this time, upper-class ladies and gentlemen belonging to privileged circles used their riches to purchase fashionable dresses and accessories. The brims of hats became much larger and more extreme, with hats extending beyond the shoulders of the lady – making her sense of balance rather precarious!

20TH CENTURY FA S H I O N Fast forward to 1914: World War One,

Suffragette Movement protests and advances in engineering posed various domestic challenges. The role of women changed forever, as they began to step into male job roles. This had a significant impact on clothing, as it was a time of survival, not looking fashionable.

Women wore tailored jackets and accompanying hats; the trilby, fedora and top hat all adorned women’s heads for the first time.

The Roaring Twenties arrived in a flourish of feathers, capturing hearts around the world.

Flappers danced energetically, demonstrating new,

technically difficult routines – one of which was the famous Charleston dance.

Dancers’ costumes were extravagant and dramatic, with fringed dresses to create movements as the dance progressed, and accompanying sparkly flapper hats, cloche hats and dramatic headpieces.

Dance had a significant impact on fashion, including hats, during the 19th and 20th centuries.

Hats offer valuable insights into different cultures and trends; next time you attend a dance, why not consider researching the history behind the associated costume and headgear?

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THE BIRTH OF THE

BONNET

transformed into the Victorian period’s poke bonnet.

In the far

The bonnet had a humble beginning, entering the world during the 15th Century.

The “chapel de bonet” first emerged in France, comprising of a small piece of cloth on top of the head which was tied under the chin. Over the years, the bonnet has taken many forms; the early Regency period saw the Copote, which

Scottish Highlands, a broad bonnet was made using local wool and skins, in order to protect the head against the cold weather. In 1852, the Scottish bonnet was purchased by the royal household at Balmoral and was incorporated within military uniforms.

There was a gradual decline in bonnet wearing, as other hats began to take the lead.

Bonnets are now only worn by children at Easter time; crafted with flowers, butterflies and symbols of spring.

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L A N G U AG E O F H AT S An investigation into common phrases about hats...

HOLD O N TO YO U R H AT !

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t ready - so mething exciting is about to h appen

UR O Y N BEE I NET? r BON iastic o

hus so ent omething g n i e B ut s d abo n’t stop e i r r o w u ca that yo about it talking

UR P U T YO NG CAP THINKI ON! very hard Thinking ething about som

I ’ L L E AT M Y H AT !

I am certain th at [something] won’t happen!

FF H AT S O !

T O Y O, wUhat

Well done ment! hieve a great ac

C A N YO U T H I N K O F A N Y OT H E R S ?

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SNEAK PEAK I N TO T H E NEXT ISSUE..

Interested in learning more about the process behind hat designing?

work, sharing her unique background, her approach to the creative process and the needs of her wonderful customers.

Marie Sansome talks all about her background in fashion design, and gives us a very special preview of her exciting new collection!

In Issue 2 of The Hat Channel magazine, we will be bringing you some exclusive interview content with key figures in the industry: Giulia Mio Millinery and Fashion Designer Marie Sansome. Giulia discusses her fantastic millinery

Regular features in the next issue include historical accounts of hats from all over the world, as well as interesting facts and stories from Tricia Hamilton. We hope you enjoy The Hat Channel Magazine – watch this space for issue number two!

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