SCHINDLER 1
SCHINDLER
MAG 1
INSPIRATION
ULYSSE NARDIN AND ITS PASSION FOR THE SEA SUCCESS STORY
THE SANTOS DE CARTIER IS BACK! GOOD PLANS
THRILLS HIGH UP IN THE MOUNTAIN! CRAFTSMANSHIP
PARMIGIANI AND ITS RESTORATION WORKSHOP
EDITORIAL
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e are very pleased to present you with the first issue of our magazine. It is an opportunity for us to show you our watch and jewellery collection, but above all it is a chance to help you discover a fascinating world where art and technical expertise come together to create extraordinary pieces. Both sharp and original, the magazine, we hope, will be enjoyed by the most steadfast enthusiasts out there as well as by the increasing number of newcomers to this world. We look forward to discussing the savoir-faire behind the stunning pieces of jewellery and watches at our shop, taking a closer look at calendars, artistic crafts in watchmaking and the four criteria used to evaluate a diamond. We will also talk about current watch and jewellery trends, such as the penchant for revisited classics, the return of dials to centre stage and the overall craze for tourmaline. Our magazine is also a way for you to discover our dear town, where we have been located for 40 years. Nestled at the foot of the legendary Matterhorn, in the heart of the Alps, it is synonymous with grandeur and intense pleasure. With its breathtaking views, it is an oasis of relaxation for all those in search of a change of scenery. Adventurers will also find many activities to quench their thirst for thrills. An environmentally-friendly haven, Zermatt gives visitors the chance to reconnect with the elements and immerse themselves in the expansive beauty of nature. In keeping with this identity trait, we also wanted to highlight the initiatives of some major watch and jewellery brands to promote this essential harmony and let you in on some good ways to experience this regenerating union. Enjoy your read, and see you soon at Schindler.
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54. GLAMOUR - Experience the fascination of CanadaMark™ Diamonds 56. TRENDS - Custom perfumes: the ultimate luxury 58. SHINING - The art of seduction 60. AVIATION - Air Zermatt celebrates 50 years! 64. WATCH CLOSE-UP TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer “Tête de Vipère” 65. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Black Ceramic 66. RELAXATION - Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, a haven of peace at 1,650 metres above sea level! 68. GEMMOLOGY- Tourmaline, the stone with a thousand colours 70. WATCH TREND - Dials stand firm in the watchmaking landscape 72. DISCOVERY - The most beautiful highland swimming
76. O’CLOCK – Design and horlogery 78. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle moon phase and power reserve small model 79. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métropolitaine 80. DINING - Green tables 82. O’CLOCK - In the city 84. WATCH CLOSE-UP - F.P. Journe Octa Sport 85. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Blancpain Villeret Quantième Perpétuel 86. GETAWAY - Hotel Riffelhaus, an oasis of tranquillity 88. EXPERIENCE - A home like no other 90. GOOD PLANS - Thrills high up in the mountain! 94. GUIDE - Small watchmaking glossary
SUMMARY
8. BOUTIQUES - Haute Horlogerie Schindler, a sign of quality and excellence 10. NEWS - Baselworld and our favourite watch picks 14. ART AND TECHNIQUE Craftsmanship and watchmaking 18. ANNIVERSARY - Patek Philippe, the Golden Ellipse, 50 years of perfection 20. TRAVEL - Zanzibar, the destination of your dreams 24. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Piaget 26. O’CLOCK - The blue hour 27. WATCH CLOSE-UP - Elegant 40 mm F.P. Journe 28. GLAMOUR - 125 years of Wellendorff. From love. The best. 30. SUCCESS STORY - The Santos de Cartier is back! 32. WATCH TRENDS - Classic watches revisited 34. JEWELLERY MAKING EXPERTISE - Diamond time 36. O’CLOCK - In the air 37. O’CLOCK - Sacred diving watches 38. INSPIRATION - Ulysse Nardin and its passion for the sea 40. HOROLOGY CULTURE The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Oscars of watchmaking 44. O’CLOCK - Diamonds and sophistication 46. CRAFTSMANSHIP - Parmigiani and its restoration workshop 48. HIGH TECH - Zenith defies the law of gravity! 50. WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE Calendars, a wonderful enigma 52. WHAT’S NEW - The Panerai Submersible, and its many versions
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BOUTIQUES
Haute Horlogerie
Schindler A sign of quality and excellence
F
orty years after its creation, Schindler has become a leader in the world of watches and jewellery in Switzerland. After graduating from the Solothurn School of Watchmaking, Kurt Schindler founded his first watch and jewellery shop in Zermatt in 1978 before moving to the current premises of the shop that was renamed Haute Horlogerie Schindler in 2004. A dynamic and friendly team is pleased to welcome you, making every effort to meet your needs. In a warm setting, these passionate experts will provide you with honest and wise advice and help you to choose from the leading brands in watches and jewellery.
The TAG Heuer by Schindler Haute Horlogerie shop open since 2014.
In partnership with Schindler Haute Horlogerie, TAG Heuer and Zenith have had their respective shops on Rue de la Gare in Zermatt since 2014. Alongside the parent company, they form an indispensable trio of excellence for all watch enthusiasts.
Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA Bahnhofstrasse 5 CH-3920 Zermatt Tel : +41 27 967 11 18
Shop hours: Monday to Saturday: From 9.00 am to 12.00 noon and from 2.00 pm to 7.00 pm
TAG Heuer and Zenith by Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA Bahnhofstrasse 14 CH-3920 Zermatt
Patek Philippe and Wellendorff by Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA Bahnhofstrasse 15 CH-3920 Zermatt
Haute Horlogerie Schindler SA
Baselworld and our favourite watch picks
Bas elwor ld i s a m u st-vi si t wat c h event on a globa l sc a l e, offer i ng p rofessi ona l s a nd enthusiasts al ik e the o ppo rt u n i ty to d i scove r t h e l at est t r end s a nd t he m ost r ec ent m od el s from l e ge ndary watch m a n u fa c t u re rs a n d f ro m u p- a nd - com i ng bra nd s. H er e i s a p i c k of t he best watche s unv ei l ed at t he fa i r.
CHOPARD Happy Sport To celebrate in style the 25th anniversary of its iconic collection, Chopard is launching three new particularly cheerful models. Lovely and delicate with their mother-of-pearl dials featuring pastel hues and the uncommon combination of steel and diamond, they expertly express the design codes of the collection, bringing the ideas of luxury, freedom and fun into one. This year, Chopard has equipped these new versions with a manufacture self-winding mechanical movement that builds up a 42-hour power reserve. The movement’s stunning finishes can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The 30 mm case comes in several versions, steel, rose gold and the two metals together.
NEWS
HAMILTON Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Limited Edition Anniversary edition celebrating a century of timekeeping in aviation. In a limited edition of only 1,918 numbered pieces, it is driven by COSC-certified calibre H-21-Si, Hamilton’s first chronograph movement with a silicon hairspring. It boast a 60-hour power reserve and is equipped with the drift angle calculator also found in the original model. In addition, thanks to new hands and SuperLumiNova® coating that glows neon green in the dark, the watch offers increased readability. The multi-level black dial also allows for simultaneous reading of the three counters, the date window at 9 o’clock and the inner turning bezels. The push-buttons and the crowns surrounding the case form the iconic X-shape of the collection. The piece comes in a 45 mm stainless steel case which is water resistant to 100 metres.
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BLANCPAIN Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute RÊtrograde In 1989, Blancpain was the first manufacturer to offer a flying tourbillon in a wristwatch. Today, the House goes one step further by presenting a new construction of this iconic complication entirely produced in-house as are all Blancpain movements. This new flying tourbillon is distinguished by the use of a sapphire disc replacing the lower bridge. The tourbillon cage, its balance wheel and its escapement seem to be floating in the air above the fixed wheel. However, this model also has other innovations: it is the brand’s first to be equipped with the jump hour and retrograde minute complications. Moreover, there is a power reserve indicator on the back of the watch, and the dial is crafted in grand feu enamel using the traditional champlevÊ technique. Exuding elegance, it comes in a 42 mm red gold case with a double-stepped bezel. It is paired with an alligator strap or a metal bracelet. A limited and numbered edition of 50 pieces in platinum is also available.
TAG HEUER Monaco Gulf Special Edition To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary sponsor Gulf Racing and the revival of a prestigious partnership, TAG Heuer presented the Monaco Gulf Special Edition, an exclusive piece in the colours of the renowned oil company. It is equipped with the famous calibre 11, watertight to 100 metres, which was the first automatic chronograph movement to be sold in the history of watchmaking. Its square design, which was particularly innovative at the time, is also back. In fact, all the attributes of the Monaco can be found on this piece, most notably the 39 mm case, the crown on the left, the legendary petrol blue dial with two white sub-dials, the date window at 6 o’clock, diamond-polished horizontal markers and the inscribed vintage Heuer logo. Nevertheless, some additions were made to highlight its sporting origins, such as the light blue and orange stripes added to the dial. The Gulf logo is also displayed at 6 o’clock. Other noteworthy features are the sapphire crystal and an open case back exposing the calibre’s wheels. A very fine petrol blue leather strap with orange stitching complements the piece, resulting in a look reminiscent of the Gulf logo. With this first edition of a renewed collaboration, nice surprises are sure to come!
ZENITH Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Ton Up Designed in honour of the bikers of the Café Racer movement, also called Ton-up boys, it is equally at home in two worlds, that of pilot’s watches and that of old motorcycle races. The luminescent oversized minute and seconds hands characteristic of instruments designed for aviation professionals provide for excellent legibility, as do the very stylish large Arabic numerals coated in white SuperLumiNova®. The piece is powered by the in-house calibre El Primero 4069, an automatic movement which beats at a frequency of 5 Hz and has a 50-hour power reserve. Slightly vintage in style, this column-wheel chronograph imposes with its 45 mm steel case and its all-black look.
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ART AND TECHNIQUE
© Jaeger-LeCoultre
Craftsmanship and watchmaking
The complex creation of watch enamelling.
A rt i st i c c raf t s a r e now on t he r i se, a n d eve ry y e a r t her e a r e m or e a nd m o re m o d e ls cr eat ed usi ng t ra d i t i ona l t e c h n i qu e s li ke gui l loc hĂŠ, engrav i ng, e n a m e lli n g a n d ev en t he a r t of feat her o rn a m e nt at i o n . H er e we t a ke a look at t hi s t re n d w h i c h i s sur e to p l ea se d i sc er ni ng wat c h co n n o i sse u rs.
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hile artistic crafts have been associated with watchmaking since the beginning of its history, they nearly disappeared in the 20th century with the creation of wristwatches and subsequently the emergence of quartz watches in the 1970s. Upset by these events, the Swiss watch industry began to put aside the ornamentation of its watches to focus on their technical aspect. It was the time for ultra-sophisticated watches in terms of movements and functions. Today times have changed, and watch companies have seen the potential of artistic crafts. In these extraordinary techniques, they have found a way to assert their legitimacy and appeal to a more diverse public. The fact that women have become increasingly more interested in haute horlogerie has helped bring about this change in mentality. Moreover, the use of these traditional crafts, At Blancpain, engraving work is performed entirely by hand with a small burin, which sometimes come from distant cultures, has enabled without the help of any digital technique. brands to open up to new markets that are often in search of unique and exceptional pieces. Although it used to be mostly brands with a long watchmaking tradition that used these talented artisans to accentuate their creations, other newer brands have now began playing the game too. Indeed, artistic crafts give watch manufacturers the opportunity to demonstrate their sense of creativity and their unparalleled aesthetic skill, thus highlighting their image as a luxury brand. As proof of this newfound interest in artistic crafts, in 2016, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) recognised the independent enameller Anita Porchet for her work and her contribution to safeguarding this age-old technique. Introduced to the world of enamelling at age 12, she is one of the few enamellers who master the different techniques of this meticulous art. Today she is constantly sought out by major watch companies, although she still remembers the 2000s when orders could be counted on the fingers of one hand‌
I N T H E S E E X T RA O RD I NA R Y T E C H NI Q UE S , BRA ND S H A VE F O U ND A WA Y TO A S S E RT TH E I R L E G I T I M A C Y A ND TO A PPE A L TO A M O RE D I V E RS E PUBL I C .
A short guide to the different artistic crafts used in watchmaking: Engraving: It is the art of incising a design using a machine or a cutting tool made of hardened steel called a burin. Engine-turning: It is an engraving technique dating back to the 16th century that was introduced in watchmaking by Breguet in the 18th century. It creates intricate and repetitive non-figurative patterns consisting of parallel straight or wavy lines that may or may not intersect which are used to decorate surfaces. Performed by hand or using a machine, this technique can be applied on different parts of a watch (dials, cases, oscillating weights, etc.) and on different materials (steel, gold, platinum, mother-of-pearl, etc.). There are many different patterns (cross
Parmigiani FleurierTonda 1950 Squelette Watch.
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Ronde de Cartier presented at SIHH 2018. A limited edition of 30 pieces that combines gold leaf and wood marquetry.
weave, flinqué, clou de Paris hobnailing, sunburst, barleycorn, etc.) that can be combined on the same timepiece. Nowadays, brands use the technique on traditional as well as on modern models. Skeletonisation: It is an art that aims to remove as much material as possible from the movement to expose the gear wheel and showcase the architecture. It is often accompanied by fine decorative work, although some brands prefer to leave the movement without any embellishment. Enamelling: This art has enhanced the work of master watchmakers for centuries. It nearly disappeared during the last quarter of the 20th century, but today has made somewhat of a comeback. Manufacturers of haute horlogerie use this technique more and more to highlight their creations. Enamel is a vitreous substance coloured with metal oxides which, when heated to a high temperature (between 800 and 1200 degrees Celsius), melts and vitrifies. It is used in different ways in watchmaking. The oldest technique is cloisonné enamelling. In this technique, the design is created by soldering or adhering thin gold wires to the surface to be enamelled. The resulting cells are filled in with enamel and then the piece is fired in a kiln. After smoothing or polishing, the metal wire outlines
the design embedded in the enamel. With champlevé enamelling, the process is reversed. Cells are carved into the dial in order to be filled in with enamel. In this case, the enameller does not have to make the design, but only to colour in the plate previously engraved by hand or machine. Flinqué enamelling revolves around transparency. The base of the surface is engraved with guilloché and then coated with translucent enamel. Meanwhile, the paillonné enamelling technique consists of placing a piece of foil –a “paillon” (tiny motifs hand-cut from gold or silver leaf)– between two layers of enamel. An even rarer technique is pliqueà-jour enamelling, which is a process similar to cloisonné enamelling: enamel is applied on a solid structure of a surface which is then dissolved using acid, giving it a transparent or translucent look, similar to stained glass. And lastly, there is miniature painting on enamel, which, according to the Swiss enameller Anita Porchet, requires extraordinary expertise. The process is different from those mentioned above, because the enamel is mixed with oil instead of with water. The work is done with a brush, like on a painter’s canvas, on a previously enamelled support where the painter traces the outline of the design. The colours are applied successively, with each being fired before
the next is applied. It is a particularly delicate decorative art which requires unmatched skill and a great deal of patience to master the 10 to 20 times the piece is put in the kiln. The enameller will not know the final colours of the creation until the piece has been removed from the kiln and cooled. Lacquering: A technique from the East, it captivates with its soft and satiny appearance. It is a resin made from the sap of various shrubs which is applied to the surface in very thin layers. Each series of layers is polished. Like with enamelling, patterns can be made with the lacquer. Marquetry: It is a technique in which pieces cut out of an array of materials are applied to a surface for an ornamental effect. Nowadays, major manufacturers compete in ingenuity to vary the materials used: straw, flowers, feathers, mother-of-pearl... Nothing is impossible when it comes to showcasing their creativity. Gem setting: The technique of inlaying and setting precious stones can be applied on any part of the watch (bridges, dial, hands, etc.). There are many different kinds of settings, including prong setting, which consists of holding the stone in metal claws, and grain setting, where the stone setter raises metal portions around the stone to hold it in place.
LUMINOR SUBMERSIBLE 1 950 3 D AYS C H R O N O F LY B A C K A U TO M AT I C T I TA N I O - 4 7 M M ( R E F. 6 1 5 )
PA N E R A I . C O M
•
+41 22 580 29 49
ANNIVERSARY
The Golden Ellipse (Ref. 5738/50P-001) showcases two age-old crafts: enamelling and engraving. It comes with matching cufflinks.
Patek Philippe The Golden Ellipse, 50 years of perfection
Since the initial launch of the Golden Ellipse, Patek Philippe has come out with many versions of its flagship model. The watch has come in various sizes and materials with an array of dials and straps. One of the most noteworthy versions was probably the one worn by Queen Elizabeth II of England in 1970.
To cel eb rate th e 5 0 t h a n n i ve rsa ry of i t s G old en El l i p se, one of i t s m ost em b l em atic m o d e ls, Pat e k P h i li ppe h a s l a unc hed a l i m i t ed ed i t i on ser i es i n platinu m w ith a n e n a m e lle d a n d e n g raved d i a l .
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eleased for the first time in 1968, the Golden Ellipse immediately affirms its singularity with its rounded rectangular shape. The ratio between the width and length of the case is 1/1.618033988…, a figure inspired by the so-called golden ratio. This ideal proportion, which was initially defined in geometry, establishes that the ratio between the large and small side is the same as the ratio of their sum to the larger of the two quantities. An expression of harmony, this proportion is observed in nature and can also be found in a number disciplines, including architecture, in order to create works with “divine proportions”. Patek Philippe, always in search of perfection, was the first watchmaker to apply the number to watchmaking. The resulting watch, called the Golden Ellipse in reference to this perfect number, was distinguished by its unusual case shape and its dial featuring a blue tone with a mysteriously deep shimmer, a colour which has remained one of the manufacturer’s best-kept secrets. Today, to celebrate this golden anniversary of the union between haute horlogerie and elegance, the Golden Ellipse is being released in two new versions, one of which is the Jumbo version in rose gold with a large black dial
(34.5 mm x 39.5 mm). It combines the warm shade of rose gold with an ebony black sunburst dial adorned with rose gold applied hour markers and delicate cheveu hands. The piece is paired with a hand-stitched shiny black alligator strap. As with all the models in the collection, the strap attachment is discreetly concealed beneath the case band, ensuring that nothing distracts from the famous elliptical design. Blending finesse and technical expertise, the piece is powered by the renowned ultra-thin automatic calibre 240 with micro-rotor, which was first presented in 1977.
THE “ G OLD EN RATIO” ESTABLISHES T HAT T HE RATIO BETWEEN THE LARG E AND S M ALL S I D E IS THE SAME AS THE RATIO OF THEI R S U M TO THE LARG ER OF THE TWO QUANT I T I ES . Collectors in pursuit of an even rarer piece will be delighted with the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50P-001, a limited edition of 100 units that combines extraordinary craftsmanship and timeless elegance. The dial is distinguished by its black fire enamel facing decorated with a volute pattern hand engraved on the 18-carat white gold plate, with a central motif reminiscent of the Calatrava cross, the logo of the Genevan manufacturer. Hours and minutes are marked by delicate cheveu hands in satin-brushed white gold. The solid platinum case back is adorned with the commemorative engraving “Ellipse d’Or 1968-2018”, and the crown is set with an onyx the same colour as the black enamel dial. Like all platinum Patek Philippe watches, discerning connoisseurs will be pleased to find the small diamond set in the case band at 6 o’clock. An absolute guarantee of distinction.
Golden Ellipse, Ref. 5738R-001. With its Spiromax® balance spring, it features the latest innovations by Patek Philippe.
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Zanzibar The destination of your dreams
A Tan z an ian A rc h i pe la g o lo c at e d i n t h e I nd i a n Oc ea n, off t he ea st er n coa st of Afr i c a , Zanzibar is th e p er f ec t sett i n g fo r a n u n fo rg etta bl e hol i d ay. It i s m a d e up of t hr ee m a i n i sl a nd s ( Unguja, P emb a and Maf i a ) a n d seve ra l ot h e r sm a l l i sl a nd s known for t hei r i dyl l i c whi t e sa nd be ache s, c ryst a l- c l ea r wat ers a nd l ush v eget at i on.
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ocated just 40 kilometres from Tanzania, Zanzibar is a world apart that is home to a variety of influences. The worlds of Africa, Arabia, Europe and Asia come together in a wonderful blend found nowhere else on Earth. You can arrive there by sea in a large catamaran, following in the footsteps of explorers of all kinds, Portuguese sailors, and Arabian and Persian merchants. And you can arrive there by plane, in which case you will have a stunning view of this group
of islands floating in a turquoise sea. With a low profile, they have a maximum altitude of 130 metres. Zanzibar City, formerly known as Stone Town, the most important town in Zanzibar, is a wonderful melting pot. It is an absolute pleasure to aimlessly wonder its many alleys, soaking up its many architectural gems, such as St Joseph’s Cathedral and the Old Fort. Depending on where your wanderings take you, you will come across the minarets of mosques, colourful Hindu
temples, beautifully-carved doors and magnificent gardens. Meanwhile, food stalls will call your name with the delicious smell of cloves and other captivating spices. You can also admire the comings and goings of men draped in their white kanzu and of women clad in bui-bui with their beautiful henna-painted hands. With its enigmatic and unique beauty, the city is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site that needs to be preserved. Don’t miss out on a visit to Chake-Chake,
Zanzibar is famous for its white sand beaches and its pristine environment.
The historic lighthouse of Zanzibar.
TRAVEL
When to go With an equatorial climate characterised by two rainy seasons, one from March to late May and the other from mid-October to December, Zanzibar, which is spared from cyclones, enjoys its dry season from June to October. For those who enjoy heat, February is the month to go; however, if you prefer cooler weather, opt for August, the coolest month of the year.
the oldest town on Pemba Island, where you can admire the ruins of an 18th century fort. Curious travellers will also be enraptured by the many small ports dotting the archipelago, such as Nungwi, a charming fishing village known for its dhow building industry. It has a festive atmosphere with its many bars and restaurants. On the south coast, the village of Kizimkazi is also worth a visit. It has a 12th century mosque, Shiraz, which is perhaps the oldest mosque in East Africa. It is also known for its dolphins. After 15 minutes of sailing, you will have the chance to admire how they
TH O S E S E E KI NG O RI G I NA L A D V E NT U RE S C A N TA KE A C RUI S E O N A D H O W, A T RA D I T I O NAL WO O D E N S A I L BOA T , WH I C H WI L L TA KE YO U TO D I S CO V E R S O M E O F T H E S M A L L E R I S L A ND S.
elegantly dance through the waves. It is best to get up early to see them and thus avoid the crowds. Sea dogs will have the chance to extend this enchanted parenthesis by heading over to Mnemba Island, a particularly select island where celebrities like Bill Clinton and Naomi Campbell spend their holidays. It has a beautiful seabed and is an exceptional place for diving. The turquoise waters that caress the beaches hide more than 150 species of coral. The large and lovely Kendwa Beach is also a good spot to explore sea life. There
are several diving clubs along the beach. The archipelago is a beautiful playground for amateur and expert divers alike. In fact, it is not uncommon to see moray eels, scorpion fish, large groupers, octopi, dolphins and manta rays. Windsurfers and kitesurfers will also find what they’re looking for. And those seeking original adventures can take a cruise on a dhow, a traditional wooden sailboat, which will take you to discover some of the smaller islands. The interior part of the island also holds wonderful surprises. Jozani National Park is
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Extraordinary seabed.
J UL E S V E RNE M A D E Z A NZ I BA R T H E S TA RT I NG PO I NT TO H I S E X PE D I T I O N TO F I ND T H E S O U RC E O F T H E NI L E I N H I S A D V E NT URE NO V E L F I V E WE E KS I N A BA L LO O N PUBL I S H E D I N 1 86 3 . one of the last remnants of the Zanzibar rainforest. It stretches for 50 kilometres between Chwaka Bay and Uzi Bay and has a rich and lush wildlife that includes a particularly rare species of monkey, the red colobus, native to the island. You will be able to see a large mangrove swamp, Sykes monkeys, more than 50 species of butterfly and all kinds of birds. Meanwhile, the Ngezi Forest Reserve, located on the southern part of Pemba Island, is home to unique trees only found here as well as to native fruit bats and several different kinds of owls. Moreover, the Kidike Root Site, located in the centre of Pemba Island, is home to Mozambique cobras, tortoises, bush crabs and other animals. Lastly, don’t miss out on a visit to Zala Park, a small nature reserve and education centre. Orange, lime, grapefruit, nutmeg, banana, ginger, peppers, black pepper and cinnamon are grown here. Among the animals in captivity, there are big pythons and mambas. Tours of exotic fruit and spice farms are also organised on the archipelago. With these lovely visits to the country’s growers, you will earn everything you want to know about cloves and nutmeg. You will enjoyably find them in the dishes you try, which mainly consist of fish often enhanced with spices and coconut milk. A wonderfully flavoursome pleasure! The endemic red Colobus monkey.
A high ly-refi ned p dial, it iece, it revea is one ls some of the move of the flattes ment desig Piage t auto n secr t Man matic ets of ufactu watch this ex re 910 es in t traord P. he wo inary t rld. W imepie ith its partly ce. Ult skelet ra-thin onised self-w inding mech anical
WATCH CLOSE-UP
41 mm case in rose gold measuring 4.30 mm thick
Black offset dial
A suspended barrel held by a single bridge
Black screw
Baton markers Escape wheel
The case back serves as the mainplate to which 219 components are affixed Black alligator strap
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 24
Th e b lu e h o u r i s a pe ri o d between d ay a nd ni ght when t he sky i s a l m ost entire ly f ille d w i t h a sh a d e of b lu e t h at i s d a r ker t ha n t he bl ue sky of d ay. It i s a m a gi c a l mo me nt to m at c h t h e d i a l of yo u r wat c h, whi c h i s i nc r ea si ngly ea si er si nc e bl ue i s now a ve ry co o l t re n d i n wat c h m a ki n g . B l ue i s, i n fa c t , t he new bl a c k.
O’CLOCK
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Tonda 1850 Elegant and refined, it houses a mechanical micro-rotor movement which can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. Alligator strap paired with a 40 mm steel case. Power reserve of 42 hours and small seconds at 6 o’clock.
The blue hour
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ZENITH
I WC SCHAFFHAUSEN
CARTIER
Defy El Primero 21 Blue With its new COSC-certified chronograph movement that measures time down to 1/100th of a second, Zenith once again releases a legend. It oscillates at a frequency of 360,000 vibrations per hour (50 Hz), six times that of its predecessor, the famous El Primero. It has a 50-hour power reserve and a 44 mm brushed titanium case.
Da Vinci Automatic Edition “150 Years” Exuding classic sophistication, this three-hand watch sports a 40.4 mm stainless steel case with a blue lacquered dial. It is driven by the new IWC-manufactured 82200 calibre, a robust automatic movement equipped with a Pellaton winding system that generates a 60-hour power reserve. Limited edition of 500 units.
Drive Extra-Flat An extremely fine piece, it has a thickness of less than 7 mm. Its 38 x 39 mm stainless steel case contains a hand-winding mechanical movement. It builds up a 40-hour power reserve and features a satin-brushed dial with sunray effect and an alligator strap.
WATCH CLOSE-UP
ures a l watch feat ode mechanica otr ec stand-by m el is in n, it goes io lue strap, th b ot m ht t g ni ou id ep time. inutes with case and m inues to ke . After 30 m mond-set cessor cont dial at 4.30 with its dia ro e s -p th ou ro in on ic m m le b e Lu ector visi eantime, th l motion det g. In the m mechanica stop turnin s nd ha e gy and th to save ener
Blued steel hands.
Titanium at tortue case measuring 40 x 35 mm set with 38 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Luminescent sapphire dial and screwed steel elements.
Minute track.
A mechanical motion detector.
Easily changeable midnight blue rubber strap.
F.P. Journe Elegant 40 mm
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125 years of Wellendorff From love. The best. very best for the love of his life. This is how the house icons themselves – the silky – soft gold rope and the unique, coloured spinning rings – became known as gifts of love too.
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historic anniversary for Wellendorff’s Genuine values “If you work with the best and most spectacular materials, such as gold and diamonds, and you employ the best goldsmiths and experts in the field and then give them the best tools to work with, it is inevitable that you will produce the best and most exquisite jewellery in the world.” 125 years after the company’s founder first expressed these values, they remain the philosophy of the family-run company Wellendorff. Each piece of jewellery crafted in the manufactory brings this philosophy to life – through the unparalleled quality of these fine creations, the sheer craftsmanship that runs through them, and – above all else – the attention to detail with which they have been created. From love. The best. The Diamond W: A symbol of passion for jewellery Excellence is built upon a commitment to values, an area where Wellendorff makes no compromises. Only 18-karat gold and the very finest diamonds are used to create a piece of Wellendorff jewellery. Every detail, no matter how small, is painstakingly fine-tuned – it can take years to perfect a model down to the very last millimetre. This is perfection on a whole new level. And the result of this outpouring of sheer dedication and love deserves a special symbol, which is why Wellendorff adorns its creations with the Diamond W. This has been called the most valuable trademark in the world, not just because of the genuine full-cut diamonds used but also thanks to the values that the trademark symbolises: faultless quality and endless love. From love. The best. Two iconic figures of jewellery history – born of love Love is the starting point and the driving force behind everything the Wellendorff family does. After all, a man wants nothing less than the
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The softest necklace in the world Made of 18 – karat gold, the Wellendorff rope is the softest necklace in the world and is already considered to be a design classic. Hanspeter Wellendorff spent two years tirelessly researching a way to fulfil the secret childhood wish of his wife Eva – a piece of jewellery that would run through her fingers as softly and gently as her grandmother’s heavy silken ropes. He found a way to wind the hard, precious metal into a golden thread that glides across the skin as smoothly as silk, creating a piece of jewellery that you can identify even with your eyes closed. Hanspeter Wellendorff lovingly named this rope the “queen of necklaces”. To this day, each and every rope is meticulously crafted by hand in the manufactory. The world`s most perfect ring The second of Wellendorff’s jewellery icons was dreamt up by Christoph Wellendorff when he proposed to his wife. He had a ring specially made – a coloured ring crafted from 18 karat gold that united several very special characteristics. This spinning ring can be turned just like the magic rings from fairytales of old – a playful effect made possible by a carefully integrated inner ring. The brilliant colours of the ring are the result of an impact-resistant yet delicately transparent cold enamel that was developed by Wellendorff. Several layers of this enamel are built up by hand to give the wearer a glimpse at the levels of engraving below, creating an effect as fathomless and striking as the ocean floor. The hand-picked diamonds are also painstakingly set so that they fit securely and shine brilliantly. Now as ever, the Wellendorff spinning ring epitomises all-round perfection and captures the hearts of women worldwide. The world´s most perfect ring. With creations such as these, Wellendorff brings forth the deeper meaning of jewellery that goes far beyond its material value. It is these genuine values that are instantly discernible, even with closed eyes: the feeling of holding something truly special in your hands. From love. The best. This is the philosophy that has made men and women fall in love with Wellendorff for 125 years.
The Santos de Cartier
is back!
The f irst mode rn wr istwatch, th e Santos was b o rn of a frien ds h ip b etw e e n a l eg en dar y avi at i o n pion eer and th e watchm ak er Lo u i s C ar tier , founde r of t h e fa mous b rand. To d ay it is b ack on c e nt re stag e w ith an i n - h o u se a utomatic cal i b re a n d inter ch ang e a b le strap s that can b e e as ily ch ang ed u s in g the p ate nt e d “Q u ick Sw itch ” inter ch ang eabi li ty system .
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he Santos de Cartier, which was designed in 1904 to fulfil the wish of the famous pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont of being able to check the time while flying, has not missed a beat. Innovative, ingenious and powerful, the new version, which was unveiled at the 2018 edition of SIHH, is perfectly in keeping with the original model.
It contains its characteristic traits, such as the square case with rounded corners, the exposed screws, the Roman numerals, the sword-shaped hands and the seven-sided crown with crown guard: a now iconic design. True to the spirit of the first Santos watch, it was designed to fit perfectly on the wrist and to optimise comfort. Its original leather strap has been replaced by a multipurpose strap
fully in line with the current preference for interchangeable accessories. In steel, gold or leather, the strap can be easily changed thanks to the system patented by Cartier called “QuickSwitch”, which features an invisible mechanism under the strap that is activated by simply pressing it. Moreover, the likewise patented “SmartLink” system enables the length of metal bracelets to be
SUCCESS STORY
When it was first created in 1904, the Santos de Cartier revolutionised the watch industry with the first modern wristwatch which would subsequently do away with pocket watches, but also with its innovative design that broke away from the aesthetic codes of the time while also being perfectly in tune with the spirit of the beginning of the century. In the midst of the industrial revolution, in the era of booming urban architecture based primarily on steel and iron, Cartier devised a square-shaped watch with exposed screws. The lines represented the four corners of the Eiffel Tower, the perfect symbol of this modernity.
The innovative feature in terms of the watch’s design lies in the shape of the bezel, which favours the synergy between the lines of the case and the strap to ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.
adjusted by the watch owner without the use of tools. Each link is equipped with a push-button used to release the pin-bar and remove or add one of the links. The new Santos, which is a symbol of modernity, continues to perpetuate the innovative spirit of its predecessor. Its automatic calibre 1847 MC, which is water resistant to 100 metres, rises to the
challenges facing watchmakers today. The use of anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, as well as a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy integrated into the case, make the calibre effectively resistant to the magnetic fields to which a watch may be exposed in everyday life. In line with its time, the new edition of
the Santos comes in two sizes (large and medium models) and in an array of shades, as the case is available in stainless steel, in rose gold, and in yellow gold and steel. There is also a skeletonised version in steel. Moreover, every watch comes with two straps, one in leather and the other in steel. A true star of the 1980s, will the Santos 2018 be the new star of the world of fine watches?
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WATCH TRENDS
Classic watches revisited
T
he vintage neo-retro trend is everywhere today. It can be seen in the world of fashion, of course, but also in the realm of cars, graphic arts, decoration and even food. The watch industry has not escaped this general craze for the past revisited with modernity. For major watch brands, this trend is in fact a real bargain. Wanting to ensure their longevity, they reinforce their image by reissuing models from the past. They draw on their history to showcase the idea of heritage and knowhow and to convey the values of authenticity and timelessness. Here are three particularly successful reinterpretations!
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel This year, the Swiss brand presented a new version of its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, an emblematic timepiece by the manufacturer. Created in 1953 with models for him and for her, the Fifty Fathoms is one of the first modern diving watches. The collection has been considerably enlarged since then and now comes in several versions (three-hand, chronograph, etc.). Inspired by the first watches in the series, the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel features two hands evoking the traditional look of antique timepieces. True to its original version, a
is back!
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WA TC H BRA ND S D RA W O N T H E I R H I S TO RY TO S H O WC A S E T H E I D E A OF H E RI TA G E A ND KNO WH O W A ND TO CO NV E Y T H E VALU E S O F A UT H E NT I C I T Y A ND T I M E L E S S NE S S . luminescent index on the bezel ensures that dive times can be easily read. With this new version, Blancpain reinforces the watch as a piece for everyday wear. Its sporty features are, for the first time, coupled with an indicator of the day, date and month in three windows positioned to facilitate reading of the annual calendar. They only need to be adjusted once a year. Its 43 mm satin-brushed steel case houses the new movement 6054.P.
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The Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speziale To celebrate 30 years of joint adventures with the famous Italian rally, Chopard has launched a new interpretation of its Mille Miglia. In a sporty style, like its predecessor, the 2018 version, in a limited edition of 1,000 units, once again uses certain design codes found on the original model, such as the colour red for some of the details and the Mille Miglia logo. In keeping with the spirit of the times, it now houses Chopard calibre 1000 01.08 C, which is entirely developed, produced and assembled at its Fleurier Ebauches workshop. Moreover, this self-winding mechanical movement is chronometer certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), has a generous 60-hour power reserve and indicates hours, minutes, seconds and the date. The Panthère de Cartier A 1980s icon and quintessential jewellery watch, the Panthère has been back on centre stage since 2017. It is a perfect mix of genres with its square bezel with rounded corners and its sword-shaped hands, making it wonderfully contemporary. This year’s models showcase the manufacturer’s jewellery making expertise by introducing a flexible link strap that effortlessly coils around the wrist. In line with its history of adapting to all tastes, these bracelets come in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold, with or without diamonds.
1. The Panthère de Cartier with the brand’s characteristic Roman numerals and Cartier’s secret signature in the X at 10 o’clock. 2. The new Bathyscaphe has a meteor grey dial enhanced by a black ceramic bezel. 3. The Chopard La Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speziale with its robust 43 mm case in micro-blasted titanium.
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Diamond time
Š
Ch
op
ar d
T he most p r eciou s g e m sto n e i n t h e wo rld , t he d i a m ond ha s a lways c a p t i vat ed a nd att ra c t ed o ur desir es . Today co lo u re d d i a m o n d s a re pa rt i c ul a r ly fa shi ona bl e, c a r v i ng out t hei r p l a c e i n t he wo rld of lux ur y. Dis cov er t h e g e m sto n e w h i c h n eve r c ea ses to be t he t a l k of t he town!
How to choose a diamond First of all, you should know that the more intense the colour of a coloured diamond is, the more valuable it will be. This is the absolute opposite of colourless diamonds, which are prized for their total absence of colour and their crystalline transparency. Their quality and value are determined by a set of criteria known as the 4Cs of diamonds. This refers to the colour, cut, clarity and carat weight.
JEWELLERY MAKING EXPERTISE
Frieden earrings.
Chopard For You Ring.
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transparent mineral composed of pure carbon crystals, the diamond is one of the four precious stones. Used both in jewellery and in industry because of its exceptional hardness, it is unquestionably the most coveted mineral in the world. Well known in shades of white and transparent, it also exists in yellow, black, pink, brown, blue, orange, red and green. These coloured nuggets are particularly sought after nowadays. In the latest auctions, coloured diamonds have triggered true hysteria and the pieces have fetched record prices. Last April, a pink diamond as large as a plum, the Pink Star, broke a world record for a stone sold at auction, reaching $71.2 million in Hong Kong. The scarcity of these stones partially explains this growing overall interest and the very high prices for which they sell. Indeed, their presence on the Earth’s surface is exceptional. For example, Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond Mine in Australia is the only place in the world to have pink diamonds. Other coloured stones can be found in Africa, like The Orange unearthed in South Africa. Rarity, however, is not the only thing behind this increase in sales. There is a fashion element spurring this enthusiasm. Stars have turned coloured diamonds into a must-have item, and today’s buyers
are growing in number and come from traditional markets, such as Australia, the United States, Japan and Europe, as well as from emerging markets like India and China. Especially cheerful and sparkly, diamonds captivate with their striking and unique beauty. But where do their many different hues come from? Coloured diamonds are diamonds with a naturally occurring colour caused by the atomic structure of the stone. It is the presence of boron, for example, that gives a diamond a blue hue, while nitrogen will give it a yellow hue and hydrogen, a purple hue. However, in the latter, the strong pressure to which the stone is exposed during formation compresses the structure and creates stones with a red or pink hue. A red diamond is the rarest of all coloured diamonds. Meanwhile, green diamonds, which are also extremely rare, were formed millions of years ago and acquired their colour from natural exposure to radiation from uranium ore. But the list does not end there. In all, more than 300 colours of diamonds have been reported to date, and there is an infinite range of hues and shades in each of these colours. With this endless diversity, we are not ready to tire of these little miracles of nature!
Colour: The internationally-recognised colour scale for white diamonds is comprised of 23 colour grades going from D (perfectly white diamonds) to Z. Only gemmologists are able to recognise the nuances existing between one grade and the next. To make it easier to classify them, diamonds are grouped into five colour families: colourless, near colourless, faint yellow, very light yellow and light yellow. Clarity: All diamonds have imperfections, which are in fact inclusions at the heart of the diamond’s structure that occur when the stone is formed. A diamond’s purity is determined by looking at the stone under a special light using a magnifying glass with a 10x magnification rate. In most cases, impurities are neither visible to the naked eye nor affect a diamond’s brilliance. Cut: It refers to the angles and proportions of a diamond. Based on complex scientific formulas, a very well cut diamond will reflect light from one facet to another and scatter it. If the work is well done, the stone will have optimal brilliance, called the “fire” of the diamond. It is the only one of the four evaluation criteria that depends on human skill. The quality of the cut, which will maximise the brilliance of the diamond, does not depend on the shape that the diamond will have (round-cut, princess-cut, pear-shaped, baguette-cut, cushion-shaped, etc.). Carat: A carat is a unit of measurement used for diamonds. One carat equals 0.20 grams. This classification criterion is the easiest one to understand, because it depends on the dimensions of the stone. The more a diamond weighs, the more expensive it will be.
In the latest auctions, coloured diamonds have triggered true hysteria and the pieces have fetched record prices.
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Aut h e nt i c i n st ru m e nt s fo r av i at i on p rofessi ona l s, p i lot’s wat c hes com bi ne powe r and t e c h n i c a l ex c e lle n c e . Th ey em body t he wor ld of ext r em e p er for m a nc e a nd co nstant i m prove m e nt .
O’CLOCK
ZENITH Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback Automatic column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. It has a 50-hour power reserve and a transparent case back. Bronze case measuring 43 mm attached to a rubber-lined brown Nubuck strap. Sapphire crystal.
In the air
ZENITH Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Chronograph With its imposing 45 mm bronze case, its wide-ratcheted easy-grip crown, its oversize luminescent numerals and its high-frequency El Primero movement, this chronograph proudly exhibits the DNA of a line of conquerors of the sky. Its neo-retro look means it sure to please!
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CARTIER Santos The quintessential pilot’s watch, it is back on centre stage this year. Rounded corners on the bezel, exposed hardware, Roman numerals... A design that has become iconic. Comes with two straps, one in alligator and one in calfskin, with the QuickSwitch interchangeability system. Rose gold case measuring 35.1 mm. Automatic movement.
I WC SCHAFFHAUSEN Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Edition “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation” With this new version, IWC is renewing its support for the work of the Laureus Foundation, an organisation which focuses on the power of sport to encourage social progress and provide better opportunities for disadvantaged children and youth. Featuring a 41 mm black ceramic case, it is equipped with a midnight blue dial adorned with black luminescent hands. Limited edition of 1,500 units.
Di vi n g wat c h e s m u st m eet v er y st r i c t r eq ui r em ent s. Wat er r esi st a nc e, r ea d ability , co m fo rt o n t h e w ri st i n and out of wat er – t hese a r e t he ba si c c r i t er i a t hat stimulate the i m a g i n at i o n of wat c h m a nufa c t ur ers.
O’CLOCK
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Chronograph Synonymous with character, distinction and watchmaking performance, the new Overseas evokes the marine world with its blue dial and its alligator strap in the same colour. Steel 42.5 mm case. Date window, small seconds at 9 o’clock, column-wheel chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Poinçon de Genève.
Sacred diving watches
BLANCPAIN
ULYSSE NARDIN
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s This limited edition of 500 units pays tribute to the Bathyscaphe models from the 1970s and their original design. Vintage-looking with its subtle grey gradient, it is equipped with the brand’s latest advances, including a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert and Liquidmetal® hour-markers. The case is in satin-brushed steel and measures 43 mm in diameter.
Torpilleur Military Inspired by pocket chronometers prized by the sea captains of last century, it contains the in-house COSC-certified self-winding movement UN-118 with a silicon anchor escapement. Case measuring 44 mm in diameter which is watertight to 50 metres and stamped with the iconic Torpilleur boat on the case back.
TAG HEUER Aquaracer With its khaki fabric strap and matching dial, it is perfect for all kinds of adventurers. Its 43 mm steel case contains a quartz movement and is water resistant to 300 metres. Unidirectional rotating bezel in anthracite aluminium and luminescent hands.
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Ulysse Nardin
and its passion for the sea
INSPIRATION
F
Tru e to i t s ri c h h i sto ry i n m a r i ne t i m ekeep i ng, tod ay Ulysse N a rd i n ex pre s ses i t s lov e for t he m a r i t i m e wo rld t h ro u g h i t s n ew boat- i nsp i r ed m od el s, i t s u lt ra - pre c i se t i m e pi e c es a nd i t s p a r t nershi p s wi t h e nt h u si a st s of t h e a quat i c wor ld . A look at t hi s bra nd w i t h u n d e n i a b ly m a ri ne foot i ng!
ounded in 1846 by a young Ulysse Nardin, the manufacturer which still bears his name built a reputation for itself by making complicated pocket watches and precision marine chronometers for international maritime companies sailing the seven seas. Today the brand
has several collections with particularly evocative names such as Marine and Diver. However, its interest in the sea goes beyond these collections and is in fact at the heart of its artistic creation and its technical research. The new Freak Vision model presented at the last edition of SIHH attests
Fifteen sharks adorn the dial of the Diver Deep Dive in addition to the one stamped on the case back. Titanium case measuring 46 mm in diameter.
to this intrinsic commitment. The 3D carved upper bridge is inspired by a boat’s hull. The watch brings together the brand’s latest discoveries, including its most recent advances in silicon. On this creation, nickel mass elements are combined with silicon to create an extraordinarily lightweight balance wheel. Another major innovation is the Grinder Automatic Winding System, which revolutionises energy transmission, being twice as efficient as existing systems. The Grinder uses even the slightest movement of the wrist. The oscillating rotor is linked to a frame containing four arms, thus giving the automatic system twice the torque (akin to having four pedals on a bike instead of two). Lastly, the watch has a Ulysse Nardin Anchor Escapement, which is based on the principle of flexible mechanisms using the elasticity of flat springs. However, the Freak Vision is not the only new piece inspired by the marine world. The watchmaker also launched the Diver Deep Dive to commemorate the new partnership between Ulysse Nardin and the freediver and photographer Frédéric Buyle. An explorer of the marine depths, the Belgian native captures images beneath the surface of the seas using available light and one large breath of air. His speciality is photographing sharks in their natural habitat, without a protective cage. He dives freely with legendary species like hammerhead sharks, tiger sharks and even great whites. To accompany Buyle on his dives, Ulysse Nardin created the Diver Deep Dive, a robust and functional sports watch that is water resistant to 1,000 metres. With a helium escape valve, a removable titanium crown guard, an expandable adjustable rubber strap and a large bezel with 12-notched teeth for easy manipulation, even with diving gloves, it was designed with diving professionals in mind. The company also works closely with another marine adventure, but one who rides waves. Alex Caizergues, the French kitesurfer, is the first man in the world to have surpassed 100 km/h on the water by sail power. The Diver Deep Dive, with its extraordinary features, is the perfect instrument to accompany this exceptional athlete.
F RÉ D É RI C BU YL E I S A BL E TO D I V E TO A D E PT H O F 6 0 M E T RE S O N A S I NG L E BRE A T H O F A I R.
The Freak Vision with its design inspired by the marine world. Platinum case measuring 45 mm in diameter.
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Le Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève The Oscars of watchmaking
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike
HOROLOGY CULTURE
Ev e ry y ear , the Gra n d P ri x d ’ h o rlo g e ri e d e G enèv e ( G PH G ) recog nis es the b e st i n t h e a rt of wat c h m a ki ng. Exc el l enc e wa s o nce ag ain th e fo c a l po i nt of t h e la st ed i t i on held at t he T hé âtr e du Léman , i n w h i c h C h o pa rd to o k hom e t he hi ghest ho no u r.
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he event has become a tradition: every year, watch brands from around the world submit their most remarkable creations to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s international and multidisciplinary jury. The list of finalist watches is disclosed after a pre-selection phase. The different prize categories are a reflection of the diversity of watch production. In fall, the crème de la crème of watchmaking comes together on the shores of Lake Geneva to attend the award ceremony announcing the winners of each category and the winner of the prestigious Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix, which goes to the best overall watch among all categories. This year, Chopard won the coveted Aiguille d’Or for its L.U.C Full Strike. Unveiled to celebrate the 20th
anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture, this ethical-certified “Fairmined” 18-carat rose gold timepiece is equipped with a minute repeater, the company’s first, which strikes hours, quarter hours and minutes on sapphire crystal gongs. Other watchmakers also took home prizes, including Vacheron Constantin, Parmigiani Fleurier, Zenith and Ulysse Nardin. Here is a closer look at these extraordinary pieces that managed to win over a discerning audience! The L.U.C Full Strike, a crystal-clear sound Winner of the Aiguille d’Or Grand Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017, it is Chopard’s first minute repeater watch. Having required 17,000 hours of development to perfect,
the L.U.C Full Strike is an extraordinary watch that strikes the hour, quarter hours and minutes on transparent sapphire crystal gongs. These sapphire rings are flawlessly integrated into the glass, creating a perfect loudspeaker to exquisitely diffuse the chimes of the hammers striking the sapphire, which can be seen at 10 o’clock. The result is a tone of unmatched purity that is rich and full, powerful and resonant. The chime of the L.U.C Full Strike sounds as if a silver knife were being delicately tapped on a Bohemian crystal glass on the table of a gourmet restaurant. The timepiece contains calibre 08.01-L, an exceptional movement certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It is very thin, measuring only 11.55 mm thick, which is quite a feat for a movement comprised of 500 components. The watch is also equipped with a power reserve indicator featuring two hands on the same axis, a gold one indicating the movement’s autonomy (up to 60 hours) and a blue one indicating the reserve of the striking mechanism. An example of exquisite watchmaking technique, the L.U.C Full Strike is also a stunningly elegant watch with its 42.5 mm case in Fairmined rose gold. In keeping with the design codes of the family, it features a vertical satin-brushed case band contrasting with the polished bezel and case back. All the inscriptions on the case back are hand engraved, and the open-worked dial made entirely out of solid gold bears the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark. The piece is paired with a double-sided, hand-sewn, alligator leather strap.
Chopard calibre 08.01-L.
H A V I NG RE Q UI RE D 1 7 , 0 00 H O U RS O F D E V E LO PM E NT TO PE RF E CT, T H E L . U. C F UL L S T RI KE I S A N E X T RA O RD I NA RY WA TCH 41
The Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, recognition of work well done Another big winner at the ceremony was Parmigiani Fleurier, who was called onto the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève stage to collect prizes for two watches: the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire won the Chronograph Watch Prize, while the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde was distinguished in the Travel Time category. Released in a limited edition of just 50 units, the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire was launched to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the brand’s activity. It attests to the maturity of Parmigiani Fleurier’s technical expertise. Equipped with a entirely in-house gold movement that beats at a frequency of 5 Hz, it is the first integrated chronograph made by the Swiss brand. Hand-winding calibre PF361 includes a chronograph, a split-seconds function and a large date, all on a single main plate. The piece is an example of fine mechanical ingenuity, while also standing out for the extraordinary beauty of its finishes with the many integrated angles and skeletonised bridges. The Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, a unique piece in the world of fine watchmaking It took five years of development for Vacheron Constantin to create this extraordinary piece; however, the effort was not in vain, as the company won the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize for this exceptional timepiece. A twin-dial watch, it combines 23 essentially astronomical complications in a celestial white gold composition and provides a reading of time in three modes, civil, solar and sidereal, each of which is driven by its own gear train. A remarkable technical feat, its new entirely integrated calibre is comprised of 514 components and measures just 8.7 mm thick, while its six barrels give it a power reserve of three weeks. The Marine Regatta, a winning regatta chronograph Ulysse Nardin, meanwhile, took home the Sports Watch Prize with its Marine
Zenith Defy Lab
T H E NE W I NVE NTI O N BY Z E NI T H D O E S NOTH I NG L E S S T H A N R E I NVE NT T H E V E RY F UNCTI O NI NG O F M E C H A N I CA L WA TC H E S . Regatta, a watch especially designed for sailors and racers. It is equipped with a groundbreaking function, with a patent to prove it, that ensures racers get off to a good start. Indeed, it features a sweep countdown timer that can be set from one to 10 minutes. Following the countdown, the bi-directional seconds hand starts moving in a clockwise direction and begins timing the race. In addition to this sophisticated mechanism, it also has an inverter that enables the central seconds hand to turn in either direction (anti-clockwise or clockwise) to track the countdown and then the race time without performing any further action, other than starting the countdown. The ample three-day power reserve, the two-way seconds hand that can be stopped to set the time and the bi-directional date change make it even more practical. The Defy Lab, a revolutionary watch The new invention by Zenith does nothing less than reinvent the very functioning of mechanical watches. With its new oscillator, the Defy Lab actually calls into question the regulation of time principle by means of a coupled balance and spring, a mechanism invented by Christiaan Huygens in the 17th century and never questioned since. The Zenith-Oscillator is a single-piece organ without mechanical linkages that replaces 31 usual components that must be assembled, adjusted, regulated, controlled and lubricated. It is a practical solution with amazing results. With its incredible frequency of 15 Hz, new calibre ZO 342 has such a high level of precision that it was necessary to create new specific tests to measure its accuracy. After 70 hours, the movement is still accurate in the range of +/- 2 seconds. The sky is the limit‌
Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta
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Th e pow e r of se d u c t i o n of wom en’s wat c hes i s exp r essed i n m a ny ways: set diamo nds, t e c h n i c a l so ph i st i c at i o n , sup er b fi ni shes, use of p r ec i ous m at er i a l s... T her e is a wide c h o i c e ava i la b le , a llow i ng wat c h ent husi a st s to fi nd t he r i ght m od el for t hem.
O’CLOCK
DIAMONDS AND REFINEMENT
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CHOPARD
TAG HEUER
F.P. JOURNE
Happy Sport A watch icon cheerfully reinterpreted with a 36 mm rose gold case, a grey guilloche dial and a grey brushed fabric strap. Diamonds dance their improvised ballet behind the sapphire crystal.
Formula 1 Elegant and sporty, it is distinguished by its diamond-set bezel, its particularly fashionable blue dial and its steel bracelet. Its 35 mm case is watertight to 100 metres.
Elégante 40 mm Particularly bold with its 40 mm platinum case set with diamonds and its fine typeset, it is powered by a quartz movement. Grey snake strap and sapphire glass.
CARTIER Panthère Both a watch and a piece of jewellery, its design is identical to that of the original model launched in the 1980s: square case, Roman numerals with the secret signature hidden in the X at 10 o’clock. Its steel and gold diamond-set case houses a quartz movement.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
CHOPARD
PANERAI
Overseas Small Model A refined piece with its metallic pink face and its matching strap, it contains a self-winding mechanical movement that builds up a 44-hour power reserve. The transparent case back makes it possible to admire the exceptional finishes. Steel 37 mm case.
Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph The classic racing spirit dear to Chopard is now available for female wrists. Bright and sporty, this new Mille Miglia for women is driven by a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement chronometer certified by the COSC. It features a 42-hour power reserve and a 39 mm stainless steel case.
Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio A beautiful new release for 2018 with its date window and, like all Luminor models, its bridge arm lever to protect the crown from accidental impact. It is powered by a manufacture self-winding calibre that has a 3-day power reserve. Steel case measuring 38 mm in diameter.
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Fabergé Peacock Egg restoration.
CRAFTS CRAFTS MANSHIP MANSHIP
Perrin Frères pocket watch.
Parmigiani And its restoration workshop
Par m ig iani is on e of t h e f ew wat c h m a ki n g com p a ni es i n t he wor ld to h av e a wo rksh o p to re sto re t i m ep i ec es i n genera l , re g ardl es s of th e i r b ra n d o r t i m e pe ri o d . A n i nexha ust i bl e sour c e of k n ow l edg e a n d i n spi rat i o n fo r t h e b ra n d , i t i s a s t he hea r t of its activ ity.
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t all began with the founding of a traditional watchmaking workshop by Michel Parmigiani in Couvet in 1976. With a small team of talented watchmakers, it was primarily focused on restoring antique timepieces. He quickly became renowned for the quality of his work, and in 1980 he was entrusted with caring for the extremely valuable Maurice-Yves Sandoz collection. It was at this time that Michel Parmigiani met the chairman of the Sandoz Family Foundation, Pierre Landolt, with whom he went on to establish a fruitful and decisive relationship. In 1996, he obtained the financial means necessary to create his own brand.
“ Th e wo r st r avages o f time a re n othi n g co mpa red to the da ma ge infli cted by a n unskilled han d” MICHEL PARMIGIANI.
This new stage, however, did not divert Michel Parmigiani from his primary passion. His workshop continued to be active and eventually became the soul of the company, its signature trait, a trait that the founder views as an unparalleled tool for learning. Its walls contain the secrets of 400 years of haute horlogerie and precise watchmaking techniques. Many Parmigiani Fleurier pieces draw their inspiration from the past. The Swiss watchmaker defies time with his new watches and with his restored pieces. Restoration does not mean just a repair. It is not a simple after-sales service for antique models, but rather the art of restoring objects to their original nature. Three steps are needed to bring pieces back to life. The first involves observation. The watchmaker must assess the functions and the decorations,
ascribe the piece to an era and compare it with other similar works from the same period. This is a particularly painstaking task, since watches often do not bear any signature and are unique models. It is therefore necessary to consult books or browse museums to get an idea. The craftsperson then embarks upon a work of immersion. This means plunging into a time period and immersing oneself in a foreign era and its thought process. To do so, “You have to A major representative let the object speak, work like of Swiss literature, The double GMT an archaeologist to rediscover pocket watch was Maurice-Yves Sandoz (1892-1958) its essence, and have the made circa. 1870. stands out for his almost surrealist humility to reconsider narratives and novels. He also amassed everything you thought an impressive collection of watches, you knew”, explains Michel clocks and automata from the Parmigiani. The restorer must 18th and 19th centuries. revive the artisanal techniques of the past, understanding what has been broken, modified or removed without letting his or her this is not enough and the restorer is creative sense get in the way. Last comes faced with the need to re-manufacture the final stage of work: restitution. The a component, a process which is always craftsperson is responsible for reproducing performed with deep respect for the the mechanics and aesthetics of the piece. original piece. He or she then reapplies the While being exceptionally careful with enamelling, highlights the engravings and the original components, he or she must restores the piece’s original shine. At the end remove the ravages of time, particularly of this long process, the craftsperson can rust. This involves extensive rust removal finally marvel at the miracle obtained. and polishing work. However, sometimes
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Zenith Defies the law of gravity!
HIGH TECH
Z eni t h cont i nue s a dva nc i ng toward the wat c hm a ki ng of the f uture wi t h i t s new mo de l, the D efy Z ero G , e quippe d wi t h i t gyros co pic “Gravity Cont rol � m odule de signe d to neut ra l i se the ne gative effec t s of gravity o n watch m ec ha ni sm s. The pie ce wa s p r esente d at the last ed i t i on of Base lwo rld and com es i n br u she d titanium a nd rose gold with a l eat her or m etal strap.
In 2017, Zenith opened a new chapter in the history of watchmaking with the launch of the Defy El Primero 21, an automatic high-frequency chronograph able to measure time down to 1/100th of a second, and of the Defy Lab, a timepiece equipped with a new oscillator that did nothing less than put into question the traditional functioning of automatic watches. But Zenith decided not to stop there. This year, it continues with its desire to push the limits of watchmaking, evidenced by the release of the new Defy. Performance, ultimate precision and neutralised gravitation are the three qualities at the heart of this exceptional timepiece. In fact, it defies the law of gravity with its patented and optimised gyroscopic “Gravity Control” module that cancels the effects of the Earth’s pull on the running rate of the watch by keeping the regulating organ and the balance wheel in a horizontal position.
The case of the Defy Zero G, which measures 44 mm, comes in rose gold or titanium.
TH E PA TENTED AN D OP TI MI SED GYRO SCO PI C “ GR AV I TY CON TR O L ” MO DULE C AN CELS THE EFFECTS O F TH E EA RTH ’ S P U LL ON THE R U N NI NG RA TE O F THE WATCH BY KEEP I N G T H E REGULA TIN G OR GAN AN D THE B A L A NC E WH EEL IN A HOR I ZON TAL P OSI T I O N. The self-regulating gravity control device was developed by Zenith several years ago, but the brand has recently optimised this feature. The spherical system composed of 139 miniscule components has been entirely redesigned to increase its efficiency and reduce its dimensions. The gyroscopic module, inspired by marine chronometers of yesteryear, which previously spun between two convex sapphire crystals, now occupies only 30% of its original size and can thus fit perfectly between the two sapphire crystals of the case. This technical and This year, Zenith also aerial feature can be seen released another new model in at 6 o’clock. the Defy range, the Defy Classic, As a guarantee of extreme a three-hand plus date watch, precision, the heart of the making Defy a fully-fledged new Defy Zero G beats collection. to the rhythm of the handwinding El Primero 8812S calibre, oscillating at 5 Hz and self-regulated by the modernised “Gravity Control” module. With its 324 components (including 139 for the gyroscopic carriage), this high-frequency in-house movement –heir to the legendary El Primero from 1969– drives the offset hours and minutes, small seconds and gravity control functions, as well as the over 50-hour power reserve indication. The entirely skeletonised movement, with its five slim branches evoking the offset Zenith star, is visible through both sides of the watch. A true treat for those who love technical advances in watchmaking!
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WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE
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s r a d n e l a
A won
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The new Parmigiani Tonda 1950 Annual Calendar.
Si m ple , f u ll, a nnua l or p er p et ua l , c a le n d a rs o n a wat c h a r e not a lways e a sy to t el l a p a r t . Wi t h m a ny d i ffe re nt ki nd s, t hey e pi to m i se t h e ingenui ty a nd ex t re m e t e c h n i c a l ski l l of t he wat c h m a ki n g a rt . H er e i s a sm a ll g u i d e to h el p you bett er u n d e rst a n d t h e se d el i ghtful co m pli c at i o n s.
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ith its leap years and irregular months, the Gregorian calendar is not always simple to follow and requires great mechanical skill from artisan watchmakers. There are different degrees of skill within the complexity of the task. A simple calendar watch is a timepiece that displays the date without accounting for the varying lengths of the months. It must, therefore, be manually adjusted five times every year. The date is usually displayed in a small window or using a hand. When the date is displayed on two discs, the expression “large date” is used. Meanwhile, a full calendar watch displays the day, date and month. All the months also have an identical duration of 31 days, which means that the full calendar must also be manually adjusted five times per year. The annual calendar takes a step further in terms of complexity. It is able to automatically account for the difference between months lasting 30 days and those lasting 31 days. It does not, however, take into account the transition from the end of February to 1 March and must therefore be manually adjusted once a year. The leap year calendar, which is not very common, automatically accounts for months with 30 and 31 days and for the months of 1. The IWC Portugieser February lasting 28 days. It must be manually Grande Complication has a perpetual calendar adjusted once every four years. with displays for the date, The perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon the day, the month and usually the moon phase. It is mechanically phase, automatically taking into account the programmed until 2499 (and will only need to be length of the months and the leap years. It is a adjusted three times for the masterpiece of technical skill and considered years that would normally be leap years but are not: one of the major complications. 2100, 2200 and 2300). A The most discerning watch connoisseurs watchmaking feat. will be delighted with the secular perpetual 2. Villeret Quantième Annuel calendar, the most sophisticated of calendars. GMT (Ref. 6670-1127-55B) The Villeret Quantième Annuel Manufactured by only a handful of brands, it GMT, equipped with the respects the 400-year cycles of the Gregorian self-winding movement 6054F, features day, date and month calendar, meaning that only century years indicators designed to allow a divisible by 400 are actually leap years. It has a smooth reading. A 24-hour counter (reference time) appears at wheel that makes only one rotation every 8 o’clock, while the GMT display 400 years. (local time) is provided by the central hours hand. Yet the Gregorian calendar is not the only calendar used around the world and in 3. Villeret Quantième Complet GMT (Ref. 6676-1127-55B / 6676-3642watchmaking. There are others that are rarer or 55B). Blancpain reinterprets one of even more complicated: the Islamic calendar, its signature complications with its new Villeret Quantième Complet GMT, which is lunar; the Hebrew calendar, which is enhanced with the brand’s patented lunisolar; and the traditional Chinese calendar, under-lug correctors. The dial features the day of the week and month in which is based on a lunisolar cycle to which seven windows, a date indicated by a blue leap months are added to a 19-year cycle. serpentine hand, and a moon-phase at 6 o’clock. While local time is shown by the They are uncommon and made by just a few fine principal hands, home time is pointed out watch brands. with a red-tipped hand.
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WHAT’S NEW
The Panerai Submersible and its many versions
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professional diving watch, the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic combines aesthetic elegance and technical performance. Today it comes with an array of different faces. Here’s a look at these varied models to help you choose the one that best suits you! The watches from the Submersible collection feature all the similarities that give a line its own identity, such as the Luminor 1950 case, a unidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated scale featuring 5-mintue markers and numerals for 15, 30 and 45, and the crown guard characteristic of Luminor models. Except for some of the oldest models, all of them are also automatic timepieces with date driven by the new P.9010 calibre, which has a 3-day power reserve, a mechanism to stop the balance wheel and a system to move the hour hand forward or backward in jumps of one hour. The differences between the watches are primarily related to the size of the model (either 42 or 42 mm), the colour of the dial and the material of the case. You choose.
PILOTS
FOR AS WELL AS SEA DOGS: the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio. With its impressive 47 mm case, it combines several functions that recall its military roots.
FOR LOVERS OF
EXTREME ACTION FOR UNABASHED
SPORTSPEOPLE: the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Acciaio. With its 42 mm case in stainless steel, it is perfect for professional divers or connoisseurs of high-performance diving watches with an assertive look.
FOR
ADVENTURERS WHO
LOVE EXTREME SITUATIONS: the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio. It is resistant to magnetic fields between 4,800 and 40,000 A/m, an upper limit which is eight times higher than that required by international standards. It is the latest version of the first anti-magnetic watch made by Panerai.
AND PERFECTION: the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Oro Rosso. It is distinguished by its 42 mm red gold case water resistant to 100 metres.
ATHLETES:
FOR FUTURE the Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic. It stands out for its remarkable technical innovation: the case is made from Carbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre that had never been used in watchmaking. Despite the state-of-the-art nature of the material, each detail on the watch is closely tied to the brand’s history.
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GLAMOUR
We a r e hap p y to int rodu ce “Cana daM ar k ” , a new l in e of dia mo n d jew el l er y ma nufactur ed by Frieden of Swit z er l and, est a blis h ed 1 898.
Experience the fascination of
™
CANADAMARK DIAMONDS
V
erify your diamond Every CanadaMark™ Diamond carries a promise of authenticity and responsibility and the mark on each diamond gives you confidence in its origin and history. Each diamond has a laser inscription with the CanadaMark™ logo and a unique serial number. This number is recorded on a certificate card which accompanies the diamond on its journey from the mine to the customer. Before the card is issued, the manufacturer must provide detailed evidence of the diamond’s origins, technical characteristics, and movement through its tracking systems. Using the “Verification Tool” on CanadaMark’s website you can confirm the authenticity of your CanadaMark™ Diamond: Serial number, rough diamond weight and mine of origin. Moreover, all certified CanadaMark™ Diamonds larger than 0.30 carats include a reputable GIA certificate.
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Therefore, beside the 4 C for the value of a diamond (Carat, Clarity, Colour, and Cut), Confidence, is an additional important fact for CanadaMark™ Diamonds which are: • Responsibly mined in Canada’s Northwest Territories, with respect for the sustainability of the natural environment and northern people • Tracked through independent, audited processes at every stage from the mine of origin to the polished stone • Natural and untreated • Polished to meet specific quality standards. CanadaMark™ Diamonds can only be cut and polished by approved manufacturers Every CanadaMark™ Diamond comes from either the Ekati or Diavik Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories - a land of pristine lakes, untamed wilderness and awe-inspiring beauty, located just below the Arctic Circle. Wildlife roams freely, and the
traditions of the Aboriginal people who make up over half the population remain a vibrant part of local culture. It’s here that CanadaMark™ Diamonds lay hidden. Pure, beautiful diamonds formed deep in the earth’s mantle more than a billion years ago. It’s here where the journey from rough crystals to polished gems begins.
Learn more about CanadaMark™ Diamonds at Schindler, Zermatt!
Custom perfumes The ultimate luxury
T he latest fad in p e rf u m e? M a d e -to - m e a su re fra gra nc es. T i m e i s up for p er fum es t hat ev er yon e we ars. Pe rs onal is ation is h e re . Th e co n c e pt of c u stom i sat i on ha s a l r ea dy m a d e a na m e for i t self i n seve ral are as of luxury , an d n ow it’s t h e t u rn of pe rf u m e ry. Pr est i gi ous bra nd s, a r t i sa n p er fum ers, sm a r t box‌ Eve ryo ne is o n t he ba n d wag on, s o d i scove r yo u r m a g i c fo r m ul a !
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Mathilde Laurent
ored of standard formulas, perfume lovers are becoming increasingly keener on a customised and artisanal approach to choosing their signature scent. This new trend has pushed major names in perfumery to open spaces specially dedicated to creating custom scents. Recently in Paris, on Rue Cambon, the famous brand By Kilian opened a customisable fragrance shop. And it’s not alone. Nowadays, perfumers are eager to offer this service, attracted by the unique creative process it entails. “Creating your own perfume is a true sensory process. What my customers appreciate here is precisely the contact with the raw material, with the product. Not to mention the discovery and support this implies”, explains perfumer Stéphanie De Bruijn, who creates exquisite custom perfumes in the chic district of Saint-Germain des Près. Customers are in search of a unique experience, that of expressing their personality, but also of giving life to their memories. “It’s a form of self-inquiry where one will explore their memory and tell a different story than with words or pictures. Creating a custom perfume is for that reason a real adventure that takes time and encounters twists and turns”, says perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, whose olfactory gems are sold around the world. She adds that her customers often come with a preconceived idea that will end up being radically different from the final product. Time, reflection and introspection all come into play. Other scents are explored and appreciated. Fragrance lovers discover new sensations guided by the perfumer. Growing in number, these independent creators are not the only ones to share this passion for custom perfumes. After Guerlain, which has been making personalised fragrances for decades, other major luxury brands have entered the scene. Cartier has recently started
offering its customers the chance to develop an olfactory portrait balancing the expertise of the maison with an intimate desire. Inside its shop on Rue de la Paix in Paris, in a private room, the company’s perfumers listen to the customer’s dream to transform it into a unique creation. “A made-to-measure perfume emits each component of a personality in its trail, revealing its interior beauty”, explains Mathilde Laurent, the former head of custom fragrances at Cartier and currently the head of the perfume division.
C U S TO M E RS A RE I N S E A RC H O F A U NI Q U E E X PE RI E NC E , T H A T O F E X PRE S S I NG T H E I R PE RS O NA L I T Y, BU T A L SO O F G I V I NG L I F E TO TH E I R M E M O RI E S . This unique experience can amount to tens of thousands of euros, and several months are needed to create the perfume, but there are other alternatives which are easier on the pocket. In particular, there are online perfumeries. These sites allow customers to create their own fragrance online, choosing different notes from a list of options. A perfume is then made with the composition. There are home creation kits available over the internet. Using notecards, empty bottles, pipettes, touches of perfume and raw materials, you can create your very own perfume. In addition, those who are rather wary of their skills as a perfumer can also take a perfumery course. Brands like Jacques Masraff in Geneva and Flacon & Molécule in Neuchâtel offer master classes to budding perfumers.
The view of perfume as a unique sensorial element explains why artists are beginning to take an interest in this captivating world based on memories, intimacy and sensations. The Swiss-Canadian photographer Christelle Boulé was recently behind an original art project, Drops, exhibited at the Grand Musée du Parfum in Paris. The young artist boldly dropped drops of perfume on photographic paper, allowing them to evolve chemically, and then developed them. The result: abstract photographs that capture the fragrance’s olfactory imprint.
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The art of seduction Eleg ant and s u bt le , pro m i se s of et e rn a l lov e, t hey wi l l a c com p a ny you gra c eful ly d ur i ng yo ur spe cial t i m es or i n your ev er yd ay l i fe.
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1. Wellendorff Mein Herz rings in yellow or white gold and diamonds. A delicate message of love. 2. IsabelleFa Grace bracelet in white gold. A sensual and refined bracelet with voluminous curves. 3. Chopard Happy Hearts bracelet in rose gold and lapis lazuli. A touch of liveliness on your wrist. 4. IsabelleFa Cercle 12 ring in rose gold. Sweet and feminine. 5. Wellendorff Pures GlĂźck bracelet in yellow gold. A lucky bracelet to wear on any occasion. 6. IsabelleFa Bricole necklace in red gold and diamonds. Strength and harmonious lines. 7. Chopard Happy Hearts ring in rose gold and natural mother-of-pearl. With its moving diamond, it embodies freedom of spirit and the joy of living. 8. IsabelleFa Ellipse 17 ring in rose gold and diamonds. An enchanting combination.
Arizona Muse wearing The Happy Hearts Collection.
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The air rescue company Air Zermatt is one of the most famous rescue services in the world.
Air Zermatt celebrates 50 years!
A k ey p l ay er in alpi n e re sc u e , t h e A i r Z e rm att m ount a i n r esc ue ser v i c e j ust c el ebrat ed i t s ha lf ce ntury in ex isten ce in M ay at i t s b a se i n Ra ro n . C e l ebrat i on a c t i v i t i es i nc l ud ed fl i ght d em onst rat i ons, f irst flights , etc. , al l in a fe st i ve at m osph e re to com m em orat e a ha lf- c ent ur y of t hi s ser v i c e whi c h has alre ady helped thous and s of c li m b e rs a n d ski e rs to get out of d a ngerous si t uat i ons.
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pecifically, the service came into being in April 1968 with the arrival of its first helicopter, an Agusta-Bell 206A Jet Ranger, based in Zermatt. Nevertheless, the company was established a few months later in late 1967 at the initiative of several important figures in the area, including Beat H. Perren, Constantin Cachin, Daniel
Lauber and Ulrich Imboden. Their project stemmed from the observation that, too often, helicopters taking off from Sion for a rescue in the Zermatt region could not complete the rescue due to meteorological reasons. And so the company Air Zermatt was born. And their first rescue operation did not come long thereafter; several days later, the helicopter
made its first outing to rescue a wounded child. One year later, the company purchased another helicopter, an Alouette 3, and this marked the start to frenetic activity. The company’s reputation grew, and it was called to perform rescue operations in the Bernese Oberland, Central Switzerland, Ticino, Grisons
AVIATION
S INCE ITS FOU N DI N G, THE COM PAN Y H A S F LO WN 4 0 H E L I CO PT E RS A ND CONDUCTED 4 7 , 0 0 0 R ESCU E OP ER A T I O NS . 61
Several particularly daring rescues by Air Zermatt have built its reputation. One such rescue occurred in 1971 when its teams managed to rescue a mountain climber in distress on the north face of the Eiger, and another was performed the following year, when rescuers managed to evacuate by helicopter the 72 passengers on the Schilthorn gondola that stopped 240 metres above the ground.
o of the rescue
n features the log
l editio A Hamilton specia
e back.
service on the cas
and northern Italy. Its risky activities have earned it several heroism awards and the world record for the highest helicopter rescue, performed in 2011 at an altitude of 7,000 metres in the Annapurna in the Himalayas. Committed and efficient, the rescue service is also an especially creative enterprise that develops different kinds of material to be used in rescue operations. In particular, it developed a fire extinguishing system using helicopters. Today Air Zermatt employs over 70 people and performs an average of 1,700 rescues per year. Its current fleet, spread over three bases, is composed of 10 aircrafts. In addition to rescue activities, it also offers services such as equipment transport and sightseeing flights. Its expeditions in the Alps, around the
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Matterhorn or over the Aletsch Glacier, are full of breathtaking views. The experience is simply unforgettable! An official partner of Air Zermatt, Hamilton wanted to beautifully celebrate 50 years of the famous rescue service by releasing a wonderful chronograph, the Khaki X-Wind Auto Chrono Air Zermatt Limited. Primarily aimed at professionals, it is a very comprehensive timepiece. To power it, Hamilton developed a COSC-certified chronograph calibre equipped with a silicon spiral. As for the design, the model features a robust 45 mm case in steel bearing the serial number of one of the helicopters in the Air Zermatt fleet. It is being released in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
The fi rst TA G He excell uer c ence hrono issue graph watc d by hes h to be t he Be a ar the ve re sanço 155 u ceive prest nits to n A d igiou s t t h r onom is celeb s “Tê very ic rate t te de e al Ob x c lusive he 55 th Vipèr serva certifi e” ha tory. S anniv llmar catio ersar ince 2 k of n. An y of t 006, extra he cr only 5 ordin eatio 00 ary lim n of t he TA ited e G He dition uer C of arrera .
WATCH CLOSE-UP
Domed sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment.
Tachymeter scale in blue ceramic.
Case measuring 45 mm in diameter. Rhodium-plated hands with black SuperLuminova™.
Chronograph hour counter.
Chronograph minute counter.
Blue tourbillon.
Black PVD coated steel push-button.
Rubber-lined matte black alligator strap with blue stitching.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Chronometer “Tête de Vipère”
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raph ronog w ch e n tning is o, th a ligh r t e a s im l Pr weep ned E hat s . dial t renow a e back h h t it case ssor, l ed w e a n t r c s o e ad cry red phire dial is f its p . Sap that o lly. Its le a c s a e ic t t ec the 0 tim ual sp d aes ion, 1 lly an recis nal vis a p io ic t d n p n h e exc seco h tec in an 100th h bot lting its 1/ u iump r s t h e it r g W akin ond, r sec atchm rn pe u is a w t e n d of o spee
WATCH CLOSE-UP
Chronograph power reserve indicator. 44 mm black ceramic case.
Facetted ruthenium hands coated in Super-LumiNovaÂŽ.
Domed sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.
60-second counter. 30-minute counter.
Rubber strap.
Openwork dial with counters in two different colours.
Zenith
Defy El Primero 21 Black Ceramic 65
RELAXATION
Grand Hotel Zermatterhof A haven of peace at 1,650 metres above sea level!
T H E H OTE L A L S O HA S A S TA BL E WH E RE H OT E L G U E STS A RE WE LCO M E . T H E Y C A N E VE N H E L P BRU SH T H E H ORSE S O R S I M PLY CA RE SS T H E S E B E A U TI F U L A NI M A L S.
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ince its creation in 1879, Grand Hotel Zermatterhof*****, in the heart of Zermatt, has welcomed an array of illustrious personalities and satisfied guests from all over the world. Indeed, time seems to have stopped at this distinguished establishment conducive to relaxation. Grand Hotel Zermatterhof is not like other places. It was not designed as a place where you simply pass through, but rather as a place to live, in the tradition of luxury hotels of yesteryear. Everything is done so that guests, once they have left their luggage in their room, can forget their worries and feel at ease, as at home, without the hassle of everyday life: it is, in short, an oasis of tranquillity. First and foremost, the experienced and attentive staff is there to welcome guests in a friendly and professional manner. Meanwhile, the guestrooms, many of which have stunning views of the Matterhorn, are exceptionally comfortable and feature stylish and elegant decor. They invite guests to give in to relaxation. Some of them even have a fireplace… The hotel also has two bars and two restaurants: the restaurant Prato Borni serves delicious Italian fare while By Brasserie Lusi offers light Mediterranean dishes. Its the end of the 19th terrace in summer is an ideal place to pass the time century, the small mountain and enjoy unforgettable moments of relaxation. village of Zermatt had become a In winter you can indulge in the hotel’s popular summer resort. The parish priest wonderful spa. Its name, Vita Borni, says it all of Zermatt, Josef Ruden, then came up with – life from the source, the source of life. The the idea of having the bourgeois families of natural purity of the mountains combines with Zermatt build a hotel for themselves on a the healing powers of water. There are qualified voluntary basis. It was built between 1876 and experts on site to give you personalised advice 1879. In exchange for their efforts, they were and help you in your search for well-being. rewarded with the usufruct right to use Massages, facials, relaxing baths, sauna… You will the property, a right that remains be spoilt for choice and overwhelmed with the in force today. desire to never leave this paradise!
Le Grand Hotel Zermatterhof Bahnhofstrasse 55 3920 Zermatt Tel.: +41 27 966 66 00
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GEMMOLOGY Pa rt of the s il icate fa m i ly , to u rm a li n e i s a s emi- p r ecious ston e t h at c a n b e fo u n d i n a n a r ray of diff er ent colours, d e pe n d i n g o n i t s co m posi t i on: brown , y el low , p ink , re d , b la c k , b lu e , et c . It s na m e co me s f rom the Sin h a le se wo rd to u ra m a li whi c h m ea ns “ge mstones of m ix e d co lo u rs”. Th e Dut c h b rought i t to Europ e in the ear ly 1 8 th c e nt u ry.
Identity There are approximately 14 different types of stones in the tourmaline group, some of which are of course more common than others. Some of the most common varieties include elbaite, verdelite and schorl, while those most sought after include Paraiba and red rubellite. In addition, tourmaline has electrical properties, because rubbing it produces static electricity. Location It is mainly found in Brazil, which is the largest producer in the world, but it has also been discovered in Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, the United States, India, Madagascar, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, Nepal, Nigeria, Pakistan, Russia, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Zaire, Zimbabwe, Italy and even Switzerland. Jewellery The most coveted stones are bright red tourmalines and Paraiba tourmalines. The colour of the stone changes when viewed from different directions, and the lapidary plays an important role in the intensity of the stone depending on how it is cut. Nearly all shapes are suitable for tourmalines: oval, round, rectangular, octagonal… Lithotherapy Considered the stone of serenity, tranquillity and wisdom, the tourmaline has different virtues depending on its colour (and therefore on its chemical composition). It is thought to protect against harmful waves, regardless of whether they come from a technological (Wi-Fi network, mobile phones, etc.) or natural source. It is also the stone of October. Famous stones Extraordinary crystals have been discovered. One of them, measuring 40 cm in length, is housed at the Louranço Marquez Museum in Mozambique. Another, weighing 250 carats, the size of a pigeon egg, was given by King Gustavus of Sweden to Catherine II in 1777 and is kept in Moscow.
Tourmaline
The stone with a thousand colours 68
A CCO RD I NG TO TRA D I TI O N, TO U RM A L I N E PROTE CTS A G A I NS T N I G H TM A RE S A ND A NXI E TY.
Chopard’s Red Carpet collection showcases the beauty of the Paraiba tourmaline.
Dials stand FIrm in the watchmaking landscape
Di a m et er or c ase m at er i a l , l i m i t ed e ditio ns, com p l i c at i ons… The se are a m ong t he favourite subje cts of wat c h ent hu siasts. But aft er hav i ng sto o d o ut fo r i t s a bsenc e i n re ce nt y e ars wi t h t he fa shi o n of sk e leto n wat c hes, t he d ial is back o n c ent r e st a ge today. The face of t he wat c h, an o bje ct of c ustom i sat i on, it is the fo cal p oi nt of a l l d esire s. He re is a shor t sel ec t i on of the hotte st v ersi ons r i ght now!
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The new Autavia is more imposing than its ancestor, having an increased diameter of 42 mm instead of the 39 mm diameter of the 1960s.
anda Especially trendy in the late 1960s and in the 1970s, panda dials are currently on the rise thanks to the current penchant for vintages watches. Today dials must been seen, and the panda design, with its nearly hypnotising graphic layout, meets this requirement perfectly. Its three black sub-dials on a white background, which symbolise the two eyes and mouth of the placid mammal, immediately attract eyes. The term “reverse panda” is used to describe the black dial which features white or very light-coloured sub-dials. An iconic chronograph from the 1960s, TAG Heuer’s Autavia has been reissued. To celebrate the 85th birthday of Jack Heuer, the creator of the brand, the Swiss company launched a new limited edition of its famous watch. Designed by Heuer himself, it embodies the DNA and design codes of the original model with its silver dial and three black azurage counters. Hamilton has also re-released its bestselling watch in the panda category, the Intra-Matic 68 Auto Chrono. For this new recently-presented version,
WATCH TREND
T RO PICA L DIALS TESTI FY TO THE IN TER EST TH AT TODAY ’ S WATCH E N TH USIA STS HAV E FOR U N I QU E P I E C E S , P IECES TH A T P R OU DLY DI SP LAY TH E I R HISTO RY, TH EI R PARTI CU LAR I TY , AN D RE VEA L TH E TR ACE OF PASSI N G TI M E . »
Hamilton opted for the reverse panda layout. Intended for a contemporary clientele, it now has a 42 mm diameter rather than the 36 mm of the original model. Tropical Tropical dials are dials that have browned, yellowed or otherwise been altered. With this vintage look, they are very much part of the current trend. But above all, they testify to the interest that today’s watch enthusiasts have for unique pieces, pieces that proudly display their history, their particularity, and reveal the trace of passing time. The term has since been expanded to identify dials that are chocolate brown or copper yellow. Unveiled at the last edition of Baselworld, the new Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is a faithful reproduction of its ancestor from the 1940s. A true tribute to the brand’s military heritage, it features a luminous chocolate brown dial.
Crosshair Among the different characteristic particularly graphic dials are crosshair dials. They refer to dials which have two thin but very visible perpendicular lines that divide the space into four equal parts. The first purpose of these crossing lines is readability. No matter which way the dial is facing, we know where its four cardinal points are. This explains why these dials are often devoid of indexes and numerals. This crosshair pattern replaces them favourably for those who prefer an uncluttered look. This almost naked style is characteristic of watches from the early 1960s. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of its iconic model, Piaget has launched a new particularly luminous Altiplano. Ultra-thin, it is distinguished by its blue dial marked with a central cross, which pays tribute to the origins of the Altiplano line.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
Piaget Altiplano
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DISCOVERY Lake Oeschinen Renowned throughout Switzerland, it is an excellent destination for hiking and water sports enthusiasts. To get there, take the gondola or walk 1h 30m from Kandersteg. Despite its altitude, at 1,578 metres above sea level, its temperature can reach 20 °C in summer. It is also possible to rent a boat or have a barbecue around the lake. The loop trail departing from the upper gondola station is absolutely stunning. You will gaze upon forests, pastures, sheer cliffs running into the lake with its ever-changing colours, glaciers and impressive peaks. Time well spent!
The most beautiful
highland swimming H av e n s of p eace i n t h e h e a rt of n at u re , la kes p rov i d e r efr eshi ng stop s d ur i ng your hi kes. Swi tze rland, which ha s ov er 1 ,50 0 l a ke s, i s a n i d e a l d e st i n at i o n for t hose who lov e t a ki ng a d i p i n fr esh wat er. H i dde n in the ho llows of s p ecta c u la r m o u nt a i n s, fa r re mov ed from c i ty noi se a nd c rowd ed bea c hes, m ount ain lak e s are wo rth the detou r a n d t h e e f fo rt i s a m ply rewa rd ed . H er e a r e som e wond ers to d i scov er wi t ho ut de lay !
Lake Saoseo Just kilometres away from Italy, nested in a wooded basin at 2,028 metres above sea level, about halfway between the top of Bernina Pass and Poschiavo, this lake shimmers with a different colour depending on how the light hits it. From cobalt blue to turquoise green, it hypnotises visitors. It is reached on foot, after a good walk from SfazĂš or from Alp Camp. Only the most daring will bathe here, as the water remains cold all year long. Others will simply carefully dip their toes in the water while enjoying the view of this wild landscape that seems straight out of a fairy tale.
Lake Blausee In the heart of the Bernese Alps, a beautiful walk leads hikers in search of a change of scenery to a lake with azure reflections, the Blausee. It is in the middle of a natural park and can only be reached on foot. There are many hikes around the lake and throughout its enchanted forest. Calling all romantics!
Lake Cauma Nicknamed the Caribbean of Switzerland for its colours, it is the most famous of the seven lakes in this region of Flims. Particularly popular in summer, it is located at an altitude of 997 metres and can be reached on foot or by funicular. Don’t think twice about diving into its crystal-clear water, despite its temperature, because it has healing properties... According to local legend, it helps treat eye and skin problems as well as rheumatism.
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Lake Retaud Located in the Vaud Alps, this lake gives you the chance to swim in crystalline water while admiring Les Diablerets glacier. A restaurant with a lovely decked terrace is right next to the lake. The view of the surrounding peaks and plains is mesmerising. Introductions to stand up paddle take place on Fridays in July and August.
Lake Oberblegi Deep blue in colour, it is contained in a glacial moraine. It is located at the foot of the Glärnisch, surrounded by streams and stunning alpine flora, and offers visitors an unforgettable natural spectacle. The hiking path to reach it is perfectly suited to a family outing and departs from Braunwald.
Lake Seebergsee In the heart of Diemtigtal Nature Park, at 1,831 metres above sea level, it can be reached after a hike of two hours or one lasting 30Â minutes. Its transparent water with changing reflections calls for a swim. Its shores attract many hikers, cyclists and nature lovers. The views of the pre-Alps of Bern are breathtaking.
Lake Taney A paradise for hikers and nature lovers, Lake Taney, at an altitude of 1,408 metres, can be reached after a one-hour walk from Le Flon. It is located in a protected 1,500 hectare nature reserve. From here, experienced hikers can hike up 2h 30m to reach Le Grammont, where there is an amazing 360° view of Lake Geneva. You can see Mont Blanc, Le MolÊson, Les Diablerets, Rochers-de-Naye and the Dent de Jaman. The way back is on the same path and ends wonderfully with a refreshing swim in the emerald green lake. For less sporty visitors, the walk around the lake is also highly recommendable.
Aquatic fun is not just for hikers. Switzerland offers many alternatives to highland lakes. The most fun is to dive into rivers like the Aare, the Limmat or the Rhine and let yourself be carried away by the current, a particularly enjoyable activity that will appeal to both adults and children!
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I n spi re d by i m a g i n at i o n , t he d esi gn of t he hour d i sc a nd t he sha p e of t he c ase give m a j o r wat c h m a n u fa c t u r ers t he c ha nc e to show off t hei r c r eat i v i ty a nd or i ginality.
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Design and watchmaking
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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
HAMILTON
Ovale Pantographe Hypnotising and captivating, it is a marvel of watchmaking with its two retractable hands. Its oval-shaped white gold case measuring 5 x 37.7 mm is exceptionally elegant and houses a self-winding mechanical movement with an 8-hour power reserve.
IWC Tribute to Pallweber Edition “150 Years” Made in honour of the first pocket watches made by the brand, it displays time in an original manner with its rotating discs with large numbers that indicate hours and minutes in digital format. In a limited edition of 25 units, it has a 45 mm platinum case and a white lacquered dial. Hand-winding mechanical movement.
Ventura Elvis80 A modernised version of the most rock ‘n’ rollesque of watches, the Ventura, formerly worn by Elvis Presley. Immediately recognisable with its triangular-shaped case, here it is powered by an automatic movement, calibre H-10, which builds up an 80-hour power reserve. Steel case watertight to 50 metres.
ULYSSE NARDIN Freak Out With its original design, the Freak collection is one of the most unconventional haute horlogerie collections. Its aesthetics are based on bold design cues: no crown, no dial, no hands, but a flying carousel tourbillon (the baguette movement rotates on its own axis) and super-light silicium technology. The watch, with a 45 mm diameter, is equipped with hand-winding calibre UN-205 made entirely in-house.
F.P. JOURNE
TAG HEUER
ZENITH
Octa UTC It stands out as much for its original design as for its technical perfection. On the dial, local time is indicated by the blue hands and linked to the calendar indicating the geographic hour, while the red gold hand indicates the home time on 24 hours. There is also a retrograde power reserve, a large date and a dial with the Earth divided into time zones. Case measuring 40 mm in diameter.
Monaco Bamford Equipped with a 39 mm solid carbon case and a full black dial, this famous timepiece has been customised by the Bamford Watch Department, the leader in customising fine watches. Modern, nearly futuristic, it features luminescent indexes on the chronograph counters and date window coloured in a magnificent aqua blue.
Defy Classic Very graphic, it is distinguished by its star-shaped chiselled dial and blackened skeleton movement. Its 41 mm titanium case houses a self-winding mechanical calibre that has an anchor and escape wheel made out of silicon. The power reserve is over 50 hours.
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Power reserve indicator.
Rose gold 36 mm case set with 80 diamonds.
Sapphire crystal.
Mother-of-pearl dial.
Moon phase.
Small Alligator strap.
seconds.
Vacheron Constantin
Traditionnelle moon phase and power reserve small model 78
touch ith its w o utiful d als g bea le an in y r t u s t a fe red nd ment tion a clutte move ecora nd un d a ic t e e a v c tom gan Genè an au its ele s de Côte ed by r s with e e e h t t w a po tiv nd, e cap s. It is by ha gled al lug olitain n p ic r a o t r s t e mm a Mé ridge s asy Tond the b . , the and it mire l n d ia a ig hours d s n ous d de of 50 e ca e in n e n o m v fi , r e k lu e r res bac in its ing a ower case own Exud gap phire in lity sh p a a id s v in ro the of orig ges p ough d brid s. Thr le e p h u is o fin ies-c o ser the tw
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To the right, the lugs extend to encompass the space around the crown.
Drop-shaped lugs on the left, a brand hallmark.
33.1 mm steel case. Skeleton delta-shaped hands.
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Date display in a large opening.
Adventurine glass dial. Midnight blue glass particles are mixed with golden copper inclusions. Indigo blue alligator strap.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Métropolitaine
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DINING
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V eget ar ian cuis in e h a s co m e into it s ow n . It is lo n g e r syno ny mous w ith e at i n g blea k or fast, b ut rat h e r wit h u n l imited cr e at i vi ty a nd u ns us p ected f lavo u rs. Origin al , nour is hin g a n d flavou r f u l , v eg etari a n re c i pe s a re be com in g mor e a n d m o re popular. H er e is a se le c t i o n of t a sty nu g g ets n ot to b e mis s ed arou n d th e wo rld !
Green tables
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1. San Francisco It is easy enough to avoid meat in this famous city on the West Coast. All restaurants normally offer dishes without meat or fish. Be sure to try the vegetarian Mexican restaurant Gracias Madre and its delicious and colourful tacos. 2. Peru Peruvian cuisine has a large number of vegetarian dishes, one as delicious as the next. To name just a few, Papa a la Huancaina, which is potatoes topped with cheese, yellow peppers and lettuce; Tacu Tacu, which is a mix of rice and beans fried like an omelette and served with onion; and causa rellena, which combines mashed potatoes, onions, yellow peppers, lemon, mayonnaise and avocados. Take a break at the restaurant El AlmaZen in Lima, a must for all vegetarians!
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3. Switzerland The oldest vegetarian restaurant, which is actually still open, was created in Switzerland! The Hiltl Restaurant was founded in Zurich in 1898 by the great-grandfather of Rolf Hiltl, the establishment’s current owner. It serves a wide repertoire of Swiss vegetarian recipes, including fondue, and dishes inspired by international cuisine. 4. Mauritius An absolute must-try on the island, dholl puri can be enjoyed on every street corner. It is a sort of pancake made from yellow split peas. With the majority of its population of Indian origin, Mauritius is the perfect place for those who love vegetarian food. 5. India A paradise for vegetarians, India is the leading country in the world when it comes to people following a vegetarian diet. It has a large number of meatless dishes: Pain chapati, oignons bhaji, dosa masala, dal… You will be spoilt for choice. 6. Vietnam A large part of the Vietnamese population is Buddhist, which explains why there is so much vegetarian cuisine in the country. Vegetables, fresh herbs and a rich variety of fruit are found in abundance in Indochinese cooking. Don’t hesitate to try the tasty hu tieu chay, a soup made from vermicelli and beans.
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Gracias Madre 2211 Mission St San Francisco, CA 94110 United States
El AlmaZen Calle Gral Recavarren 298 Miraflores 15074 Peru
Hiltl Restaurant Sihlstrasse 28 8001 Zurich Switzerland
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U rb a n a n d e le g a nt , t h ey a c com p a ny you wi t h p r ec i si on a nd styl e at t he office and in the eve n i n g . Th ey a re c la ssi c or sl i ght ly m or e m od er n a nd com e i n a n a r ray of sty le s.
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Around town
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PATEK PHILIPPE
PATEK PHILIPPE
CARTIER
5205G Complications With an understated and elegant style, it combines the beautiful shine of white gold with the blue sunburst pattern on the dial. Its 40 mm case houses a self-winding mechanical movement with an annual calendar, moon phases and a 24-hour indicator. Sapphire crystal case back.
5940R Grand Complications A superb mix of refinement and readability! An ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar with a cushion-shaped case measuring 37 x 44.6 mm welcomes a new version in rose gold. Interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid case back.
Drive It is 40% thinner than the original model presented in 2016, with a thickness of less than 7 mm. Its sleek and delicate look is enhanced by its size (38 x 39 mm), its satin-brushed dial with sunray effect, its flat sapphire crystal and its alligator strap. Stainless steel case and hand-winding movement.
PANERAI Radiomir California 3 days Acciaio Its 47 mm case in polished steel contains a hand-winding mechanical movement that builds up a power reserve of three days. The sapphire crystal case back makes it possible to admire the mechanical complexity of the timepiece. Calfskin strap.
PANERAI
HAMILTON
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
Luminor Base 8 Days Titanio Exuding a slightly vintage look, it houses a hand-winding mechanical movement. The brown dial with Arabic numerals and luminescent markers is beautifully enhanced with the alligator strap in the same colour. Titanium case measuring 44 mm in diameter. Crown guard device characteristic of the brand.
Khaki Field Mechanical 50mm Imposing with its 50 mm case and its large Arabic numerals ensuring perfect legibility, it features a somewhat vintage style. It is equipped with a hand-winding mechanical movement. Sapphire crystal. Watertight to 100 metres.
Kalpa Hebdomadaire Its barrel-shaped rose gold case (42.3 x 32.1 mm) protects a hand-winding mechanical movement whose exceptionally superb finishes can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back. The calibre, which is equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch, ensures precision and ease-of-use.
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Desig ned s pecific move ally fo ment r high that b -perfo uilds u rmanc p a po e spo wer re rts ac serve tivity, of five it hou ses an days. h
WATCH CLOSE-UP
aute h
orloge
rie self -wind in
g
Dial in aluminium alloy and sapphire.
Titanium case measuring 42 mm in diameter.
Power reserve. Large date.
SuperLumiNovaÂŽ hands.
Day/night indicator.
Small seconds.
Titanium bracelet.
F.P. Journe Octa Sport 84
l anua ny m a t u ase itho on ph eek w e mo the w h f T o . s y da year h and leap r the mont , o f e t s a t coun the d ates lly ac indic atica it m , t o t a fe au nical eed it iece. echa imep 0. Ind m t 0 l e 1 a u 2 n r il At ptio n unt exce entio ff this o interv s d n y rou displa
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Under-lug correctors. Leap year indication.
Date. Month display.
Day display. Moon phase.
18ct red gold 40 mm case.
Alligator leather strap.
Blancpain Villeret Quantième PerpÊtuel 85
GETAWAY
Hotel
Riffelhaus An oasis of tranquillity
P er ched at a n a lt i t u d e of 2 , 5 0 0 m etr es, H ot el Ri ffel ha us**** ha s p a nora m i c v i ews of t h e s p ectacul a r Matt e rh o rn M o u nt a i n s. It i s loc at ed at t he ed ge of ski slop es a nd at t he start of wonder f u l h i ki n g t ra i ls, se rvi n g a s t he p er fec t st a r t i ng p oi nt to exp lor e t he nat ura l wo nde rs of th e s u rro u n d i n g a re a .
A magical place with a direct view of the Matterhorn.
FOR YOU R CON V EN I EN C E , THE HOTEL ALSO OFF E RS FR EE SK I STOR AGE I N WI NT E R AN D FR EE B I CYCLE STO RA G E IN SU M MER . Guestrooms with natural charm.
A Riffelhaus 1853 Riffelberg 2500m CH-3920 Zermatt Tel +41 27 966 65 00
historic hotel dating back to 1853 and renovated in 2014, the Riffelhaus has over the course of the years earned a well-deserved reputation. It is a unique place in Valais, not too far from the hustle and bustle of the centre of Zermatt. The property can only be accessed using the cable car that runs from the village. Arrival at this oasis is made easy by the hotel staff, who come to meet guests at the station and help them with their luggage. Everything has been thought through to ensure utmost comfort. The guestrooms, with their breathtaking views, have a particularly warm and cosy atmosphere thanks to the use of wood and other natural materials chosen for the decoration. The hotel also boasts various outdoor facilities offering the perfect place to relax after a strenuous day, including the bar, a salon, a library and an outdoor hot tub, sauna, steam bath and relaxation room. To top it off, most of them have outstanding views of the surrounding
mountains. You will not want to miss out on taking a dip in the fresh mountain air surrounded by snowy peaks… In both summer and winter, the hotel, which is located directly on the slopes, is an outstanding starting point to discover the fascinating Matterhorn Mountains. The Riffelberg ski area, with its 360 kilometres of slopes prepared for all levels, is one of the best in the world. But that’s not all. The resort also makes non-skiers happy by offering a variety of activities such as ice skating, snowshoeing, ice hockey, curling, ice-bocce, sledging, hiking and paragliding in the skies of Zermatt. Visitors also have a wide variety of choices in the summer, including hiking, mountaineering, climbing, mountain biking and golf. The pleasure of dolce far niente can also be had on the hotel’s terrace and savouring the delicious culinary creations of the restaurant serving traditional Swiss cuisine. Tempting holiday in the works!
Since 1857, many unsuccessful attempts to conquer the Matterhorn have been made, serving to feed the legend of its invincibility, but it was not until the 4th of July 1865 when the summit was finally reached for the first time. The expedition had a tragic ending, as four members of the climbing party led by the British climber Edward Whymper suffered a fatal fall on the descent. The event was a major occurrence at the time. Gustave Doré created a very realistic illustration of the tragedy entitled The First Ascent of the Matterhorn, which is now exhibited at the Musée d’Orsay.
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La Flèche Zoo The Manta Resort
The Cabanes du Mont**** The Autonomous Tent 2.0
EXPERIENCE
A home like no other
A re yo u i n se a rc h of r el a xat i on, si l enc e a nd p r i va cy?
T
he world is home to unusual accommodations offering wonderful overnight stays. Cocooning doesn’t necessarily mean withdrawing into your normal home. On the contrary, far from the demands of everyday life, often in the heart of nature, these extraordinary spaces allow you to truly let go. You will not have to deal with the nonstop demands or be constantly present. In harmony with the world around you and with yourself, you will be able to slip into healing. Wellbeing is within reach, so quickly choose the house of your dreams!
the grizzly bears or in a treehouse among lemurs. To chill things down a bit, choose to say in the polar kingdom at the foot of their icy lands, and you may be able to enjoy a morning one-on-one with an Arctic giant. The bravest of visitors can choose the Sumatra Lodge, nestled in the heart of a lush bamboo forest with stunning views of white tigers. You will never forget your encounter with Soha, a male weighing over 230 kilos… The night includes entrance to the La Flèche Zoo for two days, a tasty dinner and breakfast.
Perched on trees, the Cabanes du Mont in Coeuve in the Jura These 4**** luxury treehouses hidden in a beech forest have all the necessary comforts and have been tastefully decorated with quality materials. Isolated and meticulously built, they are perfectly integrated in the bucolic landscape. All the cabins have a small kitchen and terrace and one of them has an outdoor hammock where you can weightlessly swing in the breeze in the middle of the forest….A hearty breakfast will be delivered in a basket to hoist directly up to your cosy nest. You also have the option to request meals for home delivery. Moreover, these exceptional accommodations have heating and are open every day of the year. The enchanting sounds of the forest at night await you!
A guestroom four metres underwater off the coast of Zanzibar The Manta Resort Hotel has an underwater suite, the first in Africa. Floating 250 metres from the beach, the guestroom is comprised of three levels, including a wonderful terrace for basking in the sun and diving into the turquoise water. However, this unusual accommodation is most notably equipped with a room built with floor-to-ceiling windows offering a 360° view of the marine world. This bold design allows guests staying here to gaze upon the extraordinary beauties of the Indian Ocean without having to put on a mask or snorkel. Surrounded by trumpet fish, rays, squid and other small animals, you will be like a fish in water.
The Cabanes du Mont**** Route du Mont 265 2932 Coeuve Switzerland La Flèche Zoo Le Tertre Rouge 72200 La Flèche France The Manta Resort Pemba Island Psv-zanzibar estate Tanzania
A night among wild animals at La Flèche Zoo Ranked among the top 10 animal parks in France, this zoo in Sarthe offers the opportunity to form a unique bond with the animals. After a day in the company of African elephants, yellow squirrels, black panthers and other wild creatures, enjoy a unique night in the heart of the park where private rooms are available. You can sleep opposite
The Autonomous Tent 2.0, a luxury tents for nomadic aesthetes With this amazing tent designed by architect Harry Gesner, you have the freedom of open spaces and the luxury of a comfortable home. The habitat, measuring some 60 square metres, is covered by a canvas stretched over a steel and aluminium frame, all of which sits on a raised wooden deck. With a maximum height of about 3.6 metres, this tent, which can easily be taken down, requires no foundation for installation. It is entirely autonomous and was designed to withstand gusts of wind up to 90 km/h and other harsh weather conditions. Moreover, it has the added bonus that it leaves no trace behind. Camping in a class of its own...
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GOOD PLANS
Thrills high up in the mountain!
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Š Valentin Flauraud
P e rc h e d at 1 , 60 0 m et re s a bov e sea l ev el , c a r-fr ee for t he p a st sev era l yea rs, t h e m u n i c i pa li ty of Ze rm att i s not j ust a ny old ski r esor t . It i s nest l ed i n a m a j e st i c sett i n g a n d pro mi ses em ot i ons a nd t hr i l l s to a l l v i si tors. H er e i s a sh o rt g u i d e of t h i n g s to d o for t hose i n p ursui t of a n awesom e t i m e...
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An aerial walk on the Charles Kuonen suspension bridge. A classic in the area: walking along the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world with a total length of nearly 500 metres overlooking a steep chasm from Lächberg to Höüschbiel, 85 metres from the ground at its highest point. Access is free and thrills are guaranteed, as one can see the long way down through the wire mesh of the bridge deck. Guided hikes are organised from Zermatt.
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With Air Zermatt, fly over legendary peaks. The Air Zermatt helicopter company, which provides rescue and transport in and around Zermatt, also offers unique air tours in a unique settings, in the heart of the impressive Alpine mountains of Valais. Groups of more than three people can even choose the flight route, to be discussed on site with the pilots. Emotions will run high!
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Zermatt Unplugged: a festival of music and gatherings at the foot of the Matterhorn. The acoustic music festival Zermatt Unplugged is now a must-attend event on the Swiss music scene with stages set up high in the mountain and throughout the village. It brings together a wide range of music styles and artists while ensuring a unique closeness between festival-goers and musicians. This year it hosted the likes of Norah Jones, Emeli Sandé, Kodaline, Lianne La Havas, The Kooks and Selah Sue. Over a period of five days, music lovers were able to enjoy 90 concerts and After Show Parties organised on 14 stages. The 12th edition of Zermatt Unplugged will take place from 9 to 13 April 2019. A musical event not to be missed!
A CLA S S I C I N T H E A RE A : WAL KI NG A LO NG T H E LON G E S T PE D E S T RI A N SU SP E NS I O N BRI D G E I N THE WO RL D WI T H A TOTAL L E NG T H O F NE A RLY 50 0 M E T RE S O V E RLO O KI NG A STE E P C H A S M F RO M LÄCHB E RG TO H Ö Ü S C H BI E L , 8 5 M E T RE S F RO M T H E GR OU ND A T I T S H I G H E S T PO I NT .
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A fight of queens in Zermatt Every year, cows of the Hérens breed fight to determine the hierarchy within the heard and choose their queen! This demonstration has become a must-see event in the region of Valais. It is a true gathering between breeders, animals, the local population and increasingly more curious onlookers. It is a true honour for breeders, who have patiently and steadfastly prepared their animals throughout the winter, to see their cow crowned as queen. Passion, tradition and authenticity are the key traits of this summer event.
Patrouille des Glaciers, a cult event in ski mountaineering Considered the most difficult in the world, this course leads from Zermatt via Arolla to Verbier through extraordinary high-altitude regions in the heart of the Valais Alps. Organised every two years by the Swiss army, it is a veritable tour de force for participating teams. It is definitely worth seeing the start of the trained competitors, both male and female. Zermatt fills with excitement as the entire village supports these brave athletes!
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An adrenaline rush far from civilisation with heli-skiing The sportiest men and woman out there can also use Air Zermatt to drop them off in the middle of the mountain, at one of 40 official landing sites, to enjoy their favourite activity, skiing, in an amazing setting. Undeveloped slopes, virgin immensity and the sacred silence of the mountains! It will be your reality.
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Extraordinary culinary encounters at Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. Since January 2018, Heinz Rufibach, head chef at Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, has been running an innovative culinary project. He regularly invites starred chefs to the kitchen at his illustrious establishment to create delicious small dishes. Hans Nussbaumer, Othmar Schlegel, Peter Wyss and even Jacky Donatz have passed through the kitchen of Heinz Rufibach. The scrumptious culinary creations are served with carefully chosen grand crus. Book your table now for the next edition!
1. The Charles Kuonen suspension bridge. / 2. Zermatt Unplugged / 3. A fight of queens in Zermatt © Roland Ammann / 4. With Air Zermatt, fly over legendary peaks. 5. Patrouille des Glaciers / 6. An adrenaline rush far from civilisation with heli-skiing / 7. Grand Hotel Zermatterhof
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Small watchmaking
glossary
GUIDE B al ance , ske leto n m ove m e nt , c h ronogra p h, c a l end a r … T he wor ld of watchm a ki n g h a s a vo c a b u la ry of i t s own. H er e a r e som e d efi ni t i ons t hat wi l l h el p you u n d e rst a n d a n d a ppre c i at e t hi s fa sc i nat i ng uni v erse t hat com bi nes tech n ica l ski ll a n d a se n se of a e st het i cs.
B
Balance: The balance is the watch’s regulating organ. It is a moving, usually circular shaped, part which oscillates on its rotational axis. The balance is attached to a spring called a hairspring which causes the balance wheel to oscillate at a constant rate. It thus divides time into equal intervals. Barrel: The barrel consists of a cylindrical box and toothed disc protected by a cover. It contains the mainspring and turns freely on its arbour. The purpose of the barrel is to store the energy produced by the winding system to subsequently distribute it to the gear train.
C
Calendar: It is a mechanism integrated in a watch in order to display the date on the dial in addition to indicating the time. Chronograph: It is a watch equipped with a complementary mechanism that measures the time elapsing from a given moment. A chronograph has two independent timekeeping systems: one to provide the time and the other to measure short time intervals. A chronograph can be chronometer certified if it has obtained the official certificate. Chronometer: A chronometer is a watch that has an exceptionally accurate mechanical system. For a timepiece to be called a chronometer, it must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), which subjects the piece to a series of tests. Complication: It is a function other than the indication of hours, minutes and seconds. A piece is a referred to as a complicated watch if it features one or more complications. There are many
different kinds of complications, and they can be combined, to the delight of mechanical watch connoisseurs. Crown: The winding crown is a round part located on the outside of the case which is used to wind the watch.
G
GMT: The term GMT is used to describe watches whose dial indicates a second time zone using an additional hour hand. Gregorian calendar: It is the calendar currently used by most countries in the world.
L
Leap year: A normal year has 365 days while a leap year has 366. This extra day is added once every four years to the month of February, hence making it so it has 29 days instead of 28. The leap year is the method used to align the calendar with the actual duration of the solar year, which equals 365.242198 days.
P
Poinçon de Genève: The Hallmark of Geneva is the ultimate standard of excellence in the world of watchmaking. It is a guarantee of exceptional craftsmanship. It attests to the provenance of the mechanical movement, which must be assembled, adjusted and cased up in the canton of Geneva. Power reserve: It is the amount of time that a mechanical watch will continue to run before the mainspring must be wound. A watch functions because of the tension of a spring. When the spring is not tight enough, it must be wound, that is, the necessary tension must be restored to the spring so that the watch is able to run.
S
Sapphire crystal: It is a thin sheet fitted into the bezel of a watch to protect the dial and hands from shocks and dust. It is highly regarded by watchmakers, because it is nearly scratchproof. It is sometimes used to replace the case back in order to expose the mechanism. Skeleton movement: It is a watch movement on which certain parts such as the plate and bridges have been cut away in order to expose the mechanism. The movement is usually placed between two sapphire crystals so that the wearer can admire the workings of the watch. Small seconds: It is responsible for indicating the elapsing of seconds. It can be the only indication of seconds on the watch or it can be combined with a central seconds hand. The small seconds feature is found in a specific sub-dial.
W
Water resistance: It is indicated in metres or in bars. A watch that is described as water resistant has been tested and conforms to standard NIHS 92-10. It can come into contact with water in ordinary everyday situations (washing dishes, taking a shower, etc.), but it cannot be used for an extended period of time in the water. A diving watch is water resistant enough to be worn underwater to a depth of at least 100 metres. This type of watch must meet all the criteria set out in standard NIHS 92-11, including shock resistance and anti-magnetism.
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