GRL.
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WELCOME 2 GRL.
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WHO ARE MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF? Meadham Kirchhoff was the quirkiest brand in London before it was forced to close in 2015. For those who don't know, Benjamin Kirchhoff and Edward Meadham were famous for breaking the rules of fashion and their use of clashing colours and prints. So what happened? Let's start at the beginning. France-born Kirchhoff trained in menswear and English-born Meadham trained in womenswear. The duo met whilst studying their degrees at Central Saint Martins. After graduating in 2002, they joined forces and started a menswear label. A year later they expanded and decided to do womenswear under the label Meadham Kirchhoff. Their collections were praised for their quirkiness and creativeness. In an interview, Meadham said that he grew up in an era and society that did not accept him for who he was and so, in turn, he rebelled. He loathed Christmas and birthdays as all it would bring him was gifts for a boy when he actually wanted Barbie Doll houses and glittery tights. Since then, he has been told that he should have been a girl. As he entered his teenage years, Meadham discovered feminism and began to question what it meant to be a girl and the notions of femininity. “Lace, dresses, make-up and high heels are merely genderless objects, behaviours and interests that have been made ‘feminine’ by society and by cultural gaze.”
During Meadham Kirchhoff's time, the pair have shown that the influence of 90s fashion is still alive and on many commercial runways. Meadham Kirchhoff made their mark on the fashion industry by reminding us all what grunge, club kid and punk fashion was truly born of: politics. Rubber, new-romantic chiffon, colour and layered drapery made up their latest and unfortunately their last collection for Spring/Summer 2015. Their SS15 seemed to be referencing and celebrating the historic medley of subcultures that they align themselves with. Whilst explicitly condemning the problematic elements of an industry that can occasionally thrive on female oppression. The show was a street-cast celebration of different bodies, genders and races walking aggressively to a soundtrack that heavily featured the word ‘cunt’. “REJECT EVERYTHING” they were told. “FREEDOM IS NOT REALITY”. “Fashion doesn't just have to be about seasonal trends; it can, at its best, be a broader reflection of society,” said Meadham.
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With today's fashion conversation including many of the topics that they themselves embraced - gender, body shape, racial diversity - the label is sorely missed. “Meadham Kirchhoff wasn't killed by the fashion industry, it was killed, largely, by itself,” said Meadham. The company found itself in a quagmire of debt which they found hard to keep up with. Subsequently in 2015, the iconic label lost their studio and were forced to close. Prior to this, the cult that they had growing throughout the fashion industry was huge. The Meadham Kirchhoff aesthetic was indivisible from the reputation of contemporary London fashion around the world. They lost their archive in the closing of their label, Meadham and Kirchhoff have been asking the industry and fashion fans to help them save a vital collection of 40-50 pieces to create a small but important archive of London fashion history. The archive pieces span the 12 year history of Meadham Kirchhoff that will be gifted to museums. “The aim is to make these clothes live: they can be borrowed for shoots, that they can be exhibited and not live in the past and be forgotten”.
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draw me like one of ur french gurls Your turn to take control of the pen or pencil!
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BALENCIAGA The Victoria and Albert Museum has paid a stunning tribute to the Spanish fashion designer Cristรณbal Balenciaga (1895-1972). I was very fortunate to travel to London and see this exhibition for myself. The ground floor is dedicated to his craftsmanship and his impressive archive that have had the fashion enthusiasts in their total element. You can spot some of the designers revolutionary shapeslike the sack, tunic and shift dresses. Over 100 garments and 20 hats are on display, that have been previously worn by Hollywood stars like Ava Gardner and 60s fashionista Gloria Guinness. Not only are the garments in the exhibition sitting still and looking pretty on mannequins, but they have been brought to life, some displayed on rotating stands alongside x-ray images. Nick Veasy's x-ray photography was put to excellent use, enabling us to really see how his, what seemed to be simplistic work, is actually very intricate. Showing boning, corsets and weights which played vital parts in holding the dresses in a certain but very beautiful way.
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SHAPING FASHION There were also small animations playing next to some of the dresses which showed the intricacy of the pattern cutting. In addition there was a replica of his cape-cum-skirt which was available to try on!
As Christian Dior said, 'Haute couture is like an orchestra who's conductor is Balenciaga.' This exhibition shows that the fashion world is still playing music to his tune.
The upper floor is dedicated to his legacy and how Balenciaga has shaped fashion and inspired so many people like: Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Molly Goddard and Simone Rocha. You can see his influence in the clever use of shape and texture in Corrie Nelson's Black Calla Dress. This closely resembles Balenciaga's four-point envelope dress of 1967 that was displayed downstairs. The walls are also plastered with quotes from some of the designers, but no one sums it up like Hubert de Givenchy, "I don't think even the Bible has taught me as much as Balenciaga".
If you have any interest in fashion, design or the human body you will definitely love this exhibition. Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is atthe Victoria and Albert Museum in London until 18th February 2018.
This exhibition shows how fashion continues its complex dialogue with the human body. Cristรณbal Balenciaga showed how fashion and the body interact to produce some of the most fascinating structures and images of our time. Subsequently setting the bar very high for the other fashion designers in the world. His work is modern and incorporates elements of feminism, even in the dresses and hats now, even 100 years since he opened his first shop, are still relevant.
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B A L E N C I A G A
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S H A P I N G
F A S H I
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O N
draw!
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more... 15
and 16
some more...
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and
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more! 19
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SO
WHY AM I
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A FEMINIST?
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RALPH LAUREN SS12: 1920s INSPIRED COLLECTION
The 20s was when women were given the right to vote and when Coco Chanel liberated womens fashion by introducing the little black dress.
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MOSCHINO SS13: 1960s INSPIRED COLLECTION
1960s
was all about change and power for women. The Pill was introduced and Mary Quant designed the mini skirt which allowed females to explore their sexuality.
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PRABAL GURUNG: FW17 COLLECTION
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CHANEL SS15 RIOT 27
"here's to strong women. may we know them. may we be them. may we raise them."
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