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cover
STA RT TO S E W W ITH
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e d i t o r s n o t e
welcome
H AV E A S E AT, G R A B A CU P O F CO FF E E O R T E A, SW I TC H O N S O M E T U N E S, A N D R E A D A LO N G. Have you ever toyed with the idea of trying out a new hobby? For instance, how about sewing your own clothes? Do you have cold feet though, or are you worried you’ll mess up? Or maybe you’re not sure if it’s your thing? Well, we at Fibre Mood are thrilled to give you hand with our e-book which is a practical guide to sewing. Meanwhile, fancy a biscuit? Help yourself and let’s get started?! Have you seen all those gorgeous creations by other Sewistas yet? Or maybe some of the handmade pieces your friends wore with such panache? You can do it too! It just takes some practise, tinkering and a few test runs. Just imagine that moment when someone asks where you bought your top, dress or trousers ... and how proud you will be when you can say that you made it yourself! The only way to make that happen – just do it! Follow our lead and conquer your fear. We can’t wait to help guide you, from your choice of fabric to the final styling. Besides Fibre Mood, there’s a whole host of Sewistas ready to inspire you. And we guarantee that the local fabric shop would love to help out. We should warn you though...the sewing bug is addictive. Once you’ve got it, you won’t want to stop. Because lo and behold! Our teacups are empty, and we can already hear our sewing machines humming insistently in the background. We hear the call too and it’s time to get moving again! We look forward to seeing you soon in your handmade outfit. Because 100% – you’ve got this! Best wishes, Isabelle & Teresa
Make it yours / Create Share Inspire
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content
STA RT TO SEW WITH
04 this way you mesure and decide on your size
15
Antes de empezar, lo primero es elegir la talla correcta. Para calcularla, deberรกs tomar algunas medidas del cuerpo. Compara las medidas de tu cuerpo con las de la tabla de tallas
re ad
s ex y Pi n a s k i r t
05
a d a pt th e d e s i g n s o i t f i t s yo u r b o d y t y p e
re ad
discover
07
st y l i s h To n i d re ss
discover
22
c o mf y B e ni ta t ro u s e rs
59
discover
s i ze ta b l e
30
s p o r t y Afra to p
d i s c ove r
re ad
41
e l e g a nt B et s y s k i r t
discover
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ret ro I d a to p
discover
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think twice
h ow to me asure an d de c i de o n yo u r si ze 1
• You can then check the size chart to see which size will suit you best based on the most important measurement.
Before you get started, first choose your size. To figure this out, you’ll need to take certain body measurements. You cannot compare our sizes with regular fashion brand sizing.
size chart (in cm) maat
bust (B) B
Measure horizontally around the widest point of the bust. Wrap the tape measure around your back and under the armpits until the ends of the tape measure meet in the front. Read the number that indicates the circumference at that point.
W
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL BO
32
34
36
38
40
42
44
46
48
50
52
54
56
58
60
UK
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
TO
HO
US
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
BO (borstomtrek)
76
80
84
88
92
96
100
104
110
116
122
128
134
140
146
TO (tailleomtrek)
66
68
70
74
78
82
84
88
94,5
101 107,5 114 120,5 127 133,5
HO (heupomtrek)
86
90
94
97
100
103
106
109
115
120
125
130
135
140
145
Je kiest de maat op basis van de borstomtrek. Is je taille- en heupomtrek groter dan die uit de matentabel, kijk dan in de onderstaande tabel met afmetingen bij taille- en heupomtrek om te verifiëren of er nog voldoende ruimte is of dat je deze maten moet aanpassen. Dit kan je makkelijk doen door bij het overtekenen van het patroon over te gaan van de lijn van de ene maat naar de lijn van een andere maat.
waist (W) Measure horizontally around the waist. This is between the bottom rib and the top of the hip bone, about 1 cm above your belly button. Hold the end of the tape measure on your navel and wrap it around your waist. Read the number that indicates the waist circumference at the point where both ends meet.
XS
EU
3
• The “pattern measurements” table show you the finished measurements of the design. For comfort and to achieve a certain cut, extra space (ease) is provided on top of the pure body measurements. Depending on the model: tight, loose or oversized, this can be a little to a lot of extra space.
• You can use these measurements as a reference to make changes to the width and length, according to your personal preference. You may also wish to size up or size down depending on the kind of cut you want to achieve.
hip (H) H
2
Measure horizontally at the widest part of your hips. Slide the measuring tape up and down to make sure you measure at the widest part. Ensure the tape measure is nice and parallel to the floor.
• The size you choose will be determined by the type of project you choose. • For dresses, tops and top pieces the bust measurement is the most important factor. • For skirts and trousers choose the size closest to your hip measurement. However with
• In this section we always indicate which cut we have in mind for this design. • Changing the width is simple: when tracing the pattern, draw the linetype of the size (or 2
sizes) smaller or larger at the measurement point instead of the size you selected. Make sure you have a smooth transition in the lines.
• You can lengthen or shorten the garment by cutting the pattern pieces where indicated
on the mini drawing. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the Centre Front (CF) and Centre Back (CB) lines and the side seams are always straight.
pattern measurements (in cm) These are the pattern measurements based on the used fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease (on top of the exact body measurements) has been added to the width measurements to create a looser cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could possibly go a size smaller or larger.
certain designs (circle skirts for example) this can also be the waist measurement.
• For each design, we always tell you in the instructions which measurement is the most important.
shorten or lengthen the pattern here
Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths. Lengthen or shorten the top by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight. XS
S
M
L
XL
XXL
length
size
58.25
59
59.75
60.5
62
63.25
64.5
sleeve length*
20.5
21
21.5
22
23.25
24
24.75
bust
91.75
hem circumference
93
* Including the shoulder length.
XXXL
99.75 107.75 115.75 125.75 137.75 149.75 101
109
117.5
127.5 139.75 151.75
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Toni dress
Toni by XS - XXXL
A l o o s e , st ra i g ht d re ss , th a t c o m e s to j u st a b ove th e k n e e w i th h a l f - l e n g th ra g l a n s l e eve s , a ro u n d n e c k l i n e a n d s i d e p o ckets in the s id e s e a m . I t’s e le g a nt in its s i m p l i c i t y. I f yo u o pt fo r a r i b b o n o n th e s i d e s e a m , yo u ’ l l e n d u p with a m ore s p or t y lo ok .
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Toni dress
size chart (in cm)
notions
XS
size
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
24
26
28
30
32
body height
160
164
166
167
168
169
170
171
172
172
172
172
172
172
172
B (bust)
76
80
84
88
92
96
100
104
110
116
122
128
134
140
146
H (hip)
86
90
94
97
100
103
106
109
115
120
125
130
135
140
145
B
• Thread H
• Ribbon: see table (optional) • Bias tape: see table (optional, because fabric used for pattern piece 5 can be used to make your own bias tape)
For this pattern, you should choose the size based on your bust measurement. Pick the size that is the best fit for your bust measurement.
• Light cotton: 30 cm (version without self-made bias tape) or 85 cm (version using self-made bias tape) • Fabric: see table ribbon length
pattern measurements (in cm)
bias tape length
This chart’s measurements are the pattern measurements based on the fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Toni is designed to have a loose cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could decide to go a size smaller or larger than the recommended size. size
XS
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL
length
88
89
90
93.25
97
100.25
101.75
sleeve*
40.5
42
43.5
45
47
49.25
51.25
bust
100
108
116
124
134
146
158
106.5
114.5
122.5
130.5
140.5
152.5
164.5
hem circumference
* Including the shoulder length. shorten or lengthen the pattern here
cm
Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired length. Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen), or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.
IMPORTANT Adjust the amount of fabric to be used based on these alterations.
cm
fabric fabric width 140 cm
cm
XS
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL
2x 68
2x 68
2x 68
2x 70
2x 72
2x 72
2x 72
XS
S
M
L
XL
XXL
XXXL
57
59
60
61
61
66
67
XS-S
M-L
XL
XXL
XXXL
145
155
240
250
255
The corresponding fabric layout can be found on page 9.
fabric advice
• We recommend to make the Toni dress in a stretch fabric. • Depending on the look you want, you can use various types of stretch fabric. • We used a black interlock fabric. Interlock (e.g. Ponte di Roma) is a double-knit jersey that looks the same on both the front and the back. The fabric is heavier and has more structure than single jersey, which is only one layer, and has less stretch than single jersey. • A heavier weight fabric will give the dress more body. A jacquard or a textured knit are ideal options.
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Toni dress
fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 140 cm
sewing instructions
XS - L FABRIC FOLD
FABRIC FOLD
T h e m eth o d u s e d to f i n i s h th e s e a m s d e p e n d s o n th e fa b r i c u s e d . T h e p i e c e s a re a l wa ys s ew n to g eth e r w i th th e r i g ht s i d e s of the fabric facing, unle ss state d other wi s e.
2
3 SELVEDGE SELVEDGE
4S
1 FABRIC FOLD
SELVEDGE
F
front
B
back
CF
XL - XXXL
centre front right side
FABRIC FOLD
wrong side
1
2
right side lining
3
wrong side lining 4S
SELVEDGE
cotton
1
4
FABRIC FOLD
1
marking pattern pieces
4v
2
single notch
5
SELVEDGE
Notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points
FAB
RIC
double notch
FO
LD V notch
SELVEDGE
Finish the side seams of the front (1) and the back (2) with an overlock stitch. Do the same with the straight edge of the pocket pieces (4).