Start to sew ebook preview EN

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cover

STA RT TO S E W W ITH

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e d i t o r s n o t e

welcome

H AV E A S E AT, G R A B A CU P O F CO FF E E O R T E A, SW I TC H O N S O M E T U N E S, A N D R E A D A LO N G. Have you ever toyed with the idea of trying out a new hobby? For instance, how about sewing your own clothes? Do you have cold feet though, or are you worried you’ll mess up? Or maybe you’re not sure if it’s your thing? Well, we at Fibre Mood are thrilled to give you hand with our e-book which is a practical guide to sewing.

Meanwhile, fancy a biscuit? Help yourself and let’s get started?!

Have you seen all those gorgeous creations by other Sewistas yet?

Or maybe some of the handmade pieces your friends wore with such panache? You can do it too! It just takes some practise, tinkering and a few test runs.

Just imagine that moment when someone asks where you bought your top, dress or trousers ... and how proud you will be when you can say that you made it yourself!

The only way to make that happen – just do it! Follow our lead and conquer your fear. We can’t wait to help guide you, from your choice of fabric to the final styling. Besides Fibre Mood, there’s a whole host of Sewistas ready to inspire you. And we guarantee that the local fabric shop would love to help out.

We should warn you though...the sewing bug is addictive. Once you’ve got it, you won’t want to stop. Because lo and behold! Our teacups are empty, and we can already hear our sewing machines humming insistently in the background. We hear the call too and it’s time to get moving again!

We look forward to seeing you soon in your handmade outfit. Because 100% – you’ve got this!

Best wishes, Isabelle & Teresa

Make it yours / Create Share Inspire

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content

STA RT TO SEW WITH

04 this way you mesure and decide on your size

15

Antes de empezar, lo primero es elegir la talla correcta. Para calcularla, deberรกs tomar algunas medidas del cuerpo. Compara las medidas de tu cuerpo con las de la tabla de tallas

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think twice

h ow to me asure an d de c i de o n yo u r si ze 1

• You can then check the size chart to see which size will suit you best based on the most important measurement.

Before you get started, first choose your size. To figure this out, you’ll need to take certain body measurements.

You cannot compare our sizes with regular fashion brand sizing.

size chart (in cm) maat

bust (B) B

Measure horizontally around the widest point of the bust.

Wrap the tape measure around your back and under the armpits until the ends of the tape measure meet in the front.

Read the number that indicates the circumference at that point.

W

S

M

L

XL

XXL

XXXL BO

32

34

36

38

40

42

44

46

48

50

52

54

56

58

60

UK

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

TO

HO

US

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

BO (borstomtrek)

76

80

84

88

92

96

100

104

110

116

122

128

134

140

146

TO (tailleomtrek)

66

68

70

74

78

82

84

88

94,5

101 107,5 114 120,5 127 133,5

HO (heupomtrek)

86

90

94

97

100

103

106

109

115

120

125

130

135

140

145

Je kiest de maat op basis van de borstomtrek. Is je taille- en heupomtrek groter dan die uit de matentabel, kijk dan in de onderstaande tabel met afmetingen bij taille- en heupomtrek om te verifiëren of er nog voldoende ruimte is of dat je deze maten moet aanpassen. Dit kan je makkelijk doen door bij het overtekenen van het patroon over te gaan van de lijn van de ene maat naar de lijn van een andere maat.

waist (W) Measure horizontally around the waist.

This is between the bottom rib and the top of the hip bone, about 1 cm above your belly button. Hold the end of the tape measure on your navel and wrap it around your waist. Read the number that indicates the waist circumference at the point where both ends meet.

XS

EU

3

• The “pattern measurements” table show you the finished measurements of the design. For comfort and to achieve a certain cut, extra space (ease) is provided on top of the pure body measurements. Depending on the model: tight, loose or oversized, this can be a little to a lot of extra space.

• You can use these measurements as a reference to make changes to the width and length, according to your personal preference. You may also wish to size up or size down depending on the kind of cut you want to achieve.

hip (H) H

2

Measure horizontally at the widest part of your hips. Slide the measuring tape up and down to make sure you measure at the widest part.

Ensure the tape measure is nice and parallel to the floor.

• The size you choose will be determined by the type of project you choose.

• For dresses, tops and top pieces the bust measurement is the most important factor.

• For skirts and trousers choose the size closest to your hip measurement. However with

• In this section we always indicate which cut we have in mind for this design.

• Changing the width is simple: when tracing the pattern, draw the linetype of the size (or 2

sizes) smaller or larger at the measurement point instead of the size you selected. Make sure you have a smooth transition in the lines.

• You can lengthen or shorten the garment by cutting the pattern pieces where indicated

on the mini drawing. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the Centre Front (CF) and Centre Back (CB) lines and the side seams are always straight.

pattern measurements (in cm) These are the pattern measurements based on the used fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease (on top of the exact body measurements) has been added to the width measurements to create a looser cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could possibly go a size smaller or larger.

certain designs (circle skirts for example) this can also be the waist measurement.

• For each design, we always tell you in the instructions which measurement is the most important.

shorten or lengthen the pattern here

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths.

Lengthen or shorten the top by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen) or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

length

size

58.25

59

59.75

60.5

62

63.25

64.5

sleeve length*

20.5

21

21.5

22

23.25

24

24.75

bust

91.75

hem circumference

93

* Including the shoulder length.

XXXL

99.75 107.75 115.75 125.75 137.75 149.75 101

109

117.5

127.5 139.75 151.75

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Toni dress

Toni by XS - XXXL

A l o o s e , st ra i g ht d re ss , th a t c o m e s to j u st a b ove th e k n e e w i th h a l f - l e n g th ra g l a n s l e eve s , a ro u n d n e c k l i n e a n d s i d e p o ckets in the s id e s e a m . I t’s e le g a nt in its s i m p l i c i t y.

I f yo u o pt fo r a r i b b o n o n th e s i d e s e a m , yo u ’ l l e n d u p with a m ore s p or t y lo ok .

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Toni dress

size chart (in cm)

notions

XS

size

S

M

L

XL

XXL

XXXL

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

22

24

26

28

30

32

body height

160

164

166

167

168

169

170

171

172

172

172

172

172

172

172

B (bust)

76

80

84

88

92

96

100

104

110

116

122

128

134

140

146

H (hip)

86

90

94

97

100

103

106

109

115

120

125

130

135

140

145

B

• Thread H

• Ribbon: see table (optional) • Bias tape: see table (optional, because fabric used for pattern piece 5 can be used to make your own bias tape)

For this pattern, you should choose the size based on your bust measurement. Pick the size that is the best fit for your bust measurement.

• Light cotton: 30 cm (version without self-made bias tape) or 85 cm (version using self-made bias tape) • Fabric: see table ribbon length

pattern measurements (in cm)

bias tape length

This chart’s measurements are the pattern measurements based on the fabric type and serve as a reference. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfortable fit. Toni is designed to have a loose cut. Depending on the preferred cut, you could decide to go a size smaller or larger than the recommended size. size

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

XXXL

length

88

89

90

93.25

97

100.25

101.75

sleeve*

40.5

42

43.5

45

47

49.25

51.25

bust

100

108

116

124

134

146

158

106.5

114.5

122.5

130.5

140.5

152.5

164.5

hem circumference

* Including the shoulder length. shorten or lengthen the pattern here

cm

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired length.

Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or sleeves by cutting the pattern pieces at the indicated double lines. Then either increase the distance between the cut pieces by the desired amount (to lengthen), or overlap the pieces (to shorten). Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams are always straight.

IMPORTANT Adjust the amount of fabric to be used based on these alterations.

cm

fabric fabric width 140 cm

cm

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

XXXL

2x 68

2x 68

2x 68

2x 70

2x 72

2x 72

2x 72

XS

S

M

L

XL

XXL

XXXL

57

59

60

61

61

66

67

XS-S

M-L

XL

XXL

XXXL

145

155

240

250

255

The corresponding fabric layout can be found on page 9.

fabric advice

• We recommend to make the Toni dress in a stretch fabric.

• Depending on the look you want, you can use various types of stretch fabric.

• We used a black interlock fabric. Interlock (e.g. Ponte di Roma) is a double-knit jersey that looks the same on both the front and the back. The fabric is heavier and has more structure than single jersey, which is only one layer, and has less stretch than single jersey.

• A heavier weight fabric will give the dress more body.

A jacquard or a textured knit are ideal options.

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Toni dress

fabric layout – solid fabrics fabric width 140 cm

sewing instructions

XS - L FABRIC FOLD

FABRIC FOLD

T h e m eth o d u s e d to f i n i s h th e s e a m s d e p e n d s o n th e fa b r i c u s e d . T h e p i e c e s a re a l wa ys s ew n to g eth e r w i th th e r i g ht s i d e s of the fabric facing, unle ss state d other wi s e.

2

3 SELVEDGE SELVEDGE

4S

1 FABRIC FOLD

SELVEDGE

F

front

B

back

CF

XL - XXXL

centre front right side

FABRIC FOLD

wrong side

1

2

right side lining

3

wrong side lining 4S

SELVEDGE

cotton

1

4

FABRIC FOLD

1

marking pattern pieces

4v

2

single notch

5

SELVEDGE

Notch the pattern paper and fabric at the following points

FAB

RIC

double notch

FO

LD V notch

SELVEDGE

Finish the side seams of the front (1) and the back (2) with an overlock stitch. Do the same with the straight edge of the pocket pieces (4).