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FEATURE: CANADIAN WINE REPORT THE GROWTH AND FUTURE
B.C.’s rising stars By Kristen Smith, Associate Editor
Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40010152
TORONTO — Paul Moran will represent Canada in the S. Pellegrino Young Chef competition at the Milan Expo June 25 to 27. He beat out a group of 10 chefs under the age of 30 from across Canada to earn the spot at Toronto’s TIFF Bell Lightbox in February. Moran prepared blood pigeon smoked and roasted, beet jus and charcoal oil, polenta and salsify for the three judges: chefs Susur Lee, Cory Vitello and Matty Matheson. Lee will travel with Moran to Milan this spring and mentor him before he goes up against young chefs from 19 other countries. At the competition, Lee was pleased to see Moran prepare the whole bird and suggests Moran open the head “last-minute” so the brains don’t dry out. “It’s a strong dish chef; I like it,” said Matheson. Moran and his recently-wed wife chef Stephanie Noel finished up the winter season at CMH-K2 Rotor Lodge in Nakusp, B.C. This spring, they are working with the West Coast Fishing Lodge’s The Outpost for another season. “Stephanie and I both work as partners there, just as we did at K2,” said Moran. The remote luxury lodge on the
most western edge of Haida Gwaii sees corporate and private groups of 14, which Moran and Noel cook for as well as a staff of 14. Moran, born in Kelowna, B.C. and Quebec-native Noel met in 2004 while working under David Hawksworth at West Restaurant and Bar. Moran started as an apprentice, earned his Red Seal and worked as junior sous chef before heading overseas in 2008. Both spent time in the kitchens of Paris and share an interest in foraging wild plants and mushrooms. While Noel has some front of the house experience, Moran is often in the spotlight because of competing. He has medalled in more than a dozen local and international competitions since he stepped into a kitchen in 2001, where he worked in prep and dishwashing during high school in Kelowna. He was awarded the inaugural Hawksworth Young Chef Scholarship in 2013. Moran started cooking at home at an early age. “I was a pretty hungry young guy,” he said. “Finding a way to feed myself was what got me into cooking really; after school, coming home, hungry. The way I was raised, I’m not really big on junk food, so that’s sort of what got me into cooking. My family encouraged me.” In two terms, Moran would de-
Paul Moran. scribe his cooking style as vegetable forward and ingredient-driven. An example: baby leek with smoked breadcrumbs and a beer aioli. “It’s a dish where the vegetable is the highlight; it’s fresh, you can eat it with your fingers and it’s sort of revisiting an old dish. The idea came from classic breaded zucchini,” said Moran, who took the concept, refined it and made it healthier. In Italy, “the final test awaits.” He will prepare eight plates of his pigeon dish for the jury and 300 portions for a public panel.
Moran said he is slightly superstitious when it comes to competing. To prepare, he will be going over the dish and practising, but isn’t sure he will create the whole dish before he goes. “I didn’t practise the dish before I went to Toronto. It’s just something that I’ve cooked before and I felt very comfortable cooking; it’s my signature recipe,” said Moran, adding preparation is more mental, such as note taking, than getting into the kitchen and cooking. He said competing is a fantastic way to generate recognition. After the
SP Young Chef Canada competition, some 40 articles were published with his name in them. “It’s really good to promote yourself within the industry as well, amongst your industry peers, not just the public,” said Moran. “The restaurant industry is so tough and it is a goal of mine to have my own boutique hotel I’d like to open with Stephanie,” he said. “Boutique hotels don’t happen overnight and getting an investor onboard is something that I think these competitions really help with.”
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