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estaurant News R December 2013 Vol. 15 No. 6
N A T I O N A L
C O V E R A G E
R E G I O N A L
F O C U S
A different
view of local
TACO DEL MAR TAKES ON THE EAST COAST
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AWARDS NIGHT IN ATLANTIC CANADA
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2014
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By Leslie Wu, editorial director HALIFAX—When chef and owner Ludovic Eveno wants to select local produce for Agricola Street Brasserie’s menu, he doesn’t have to go any further than the back of his restaurant. A partnership with local farm distributor Jason Pelley—who also sources other area restaurants—allows him to rent a walk in fridge and part of the 3,000-square-foot backof-house space, providing a base downtown and avoiding multiple trips to bring produce back from local farms. “When the partners bought the place, we didn’t know what to do in the back. We were happy to just put in a pool table for the staff,” joked Eveno. “Now, for us, it’s like going to the supermarket in the back of the
house to pick produce in season, and [Pelley] only has to go out once a day to fill his fridge.” Promoting Nova Above: Agricola’s 17-seat bar and open Scotia’s bounty in the kitchen. Photo by Soho | North Photography. 120-seat, 4,000-squareInset: Co-owners Ludovic Eveno, Rachel foot dining room is a Knox and Michael Hase. clear goal for Eveno and co-owners Rachel Knox but also for the related reason that and Michael Hase. Agricola, which opened in late agricola means ‘farmer’ in Latin and November, gets its name from the we will be working closely with Nova Scotia farmers.” province’s farming heritage. The owners consulted with Me“We wanted to keep it simple and not try to be too clever with it,” said lissa Cummings at Design 360 to creKnox. “Located at 2540 Agricola St., ate the look and feel of the restaurant, we knew we wanted Agricola in the which is overseen by general manager name, not only because it was the pen Peter Goneau. “Our desire was to name of [18th century merchant] create a rustic restaurant and bar in John Young who urged Nova Scotia an urban setting serving French-into become agriculturally self-reliant, spired, seasonal, home-style cooking
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with robust earthy dishes, and slow– cooked food in a warm, North End setting,” said Knox. Knox, a 10-year hotel manager and Food Network veteran, and Hase, who has a background in finance, have moved between Halifax and New York for the past 11 years. Eveno, an Alsatian trained chef with experience in England, France and the U.S., has spent a decade cooking in Canadian restaurants such as Cape Breton’s Keltic Lodge, and Halifax’s Bicycle Thief, Bish World Cuisine and the Westin Nova Scotian. Joining his 14-person kitchen staff is sous chef Beth Muise, former chef at The Press Gang. The food is influenced by Eveno’s French training, with cassoulet and beef tartare making appearances on the menu, but the focus is on the local ingredients, he said. Average check is approximately $35 drinks excluded, with plates ranging from snacks such as gougères and brandade at $3 to $5 to larger plates and seafood platters from $32 to $84. “We didn’t want to go with a first course, second course structure,” said Eveno. “The menu is designed so that people can choose anything at any time.” For family meals, whole legs of lamb, pork shoulder and free-range chickens are available for pre-order as a “whole beast” meal. Both Knox and Eveno stressed the importance of drawing locals to the restaurant. Recently, the restaurant ran a hospitality industry night at the end of November offering discounts for cooks, front desk, catering and servers. “We don’t want to be considered a French restaurant, or a local restaurant,” said Eveno. “Really, we’re a neighbourhood restaurant.” 2540 Agricola Street, Halifax. Agricolastreet.ca.@agricolastreet.