HARNESSING THE POWER OF
BANANA FIBER
PREFACE As a communication student we have a variety to choose from, we all choose based on different different aspects. Some choose according to their fondness for things, some choose according to their preferences or capacity and some according to their skills. But one this that is common in all of us is that we are communicators. We learn and practice to communicate better in every aspect. So hence this project helped us learn better communication skills. In terms of choice, reasoning, research, being able to extract required information, put it together and share it with everyone. I chose a craft that didn’t have fancy motifs or elaborate designs; instead it was simple and was working towards a social cause. The reason behind me choosing this craft was also to take part in the social cause, and as a communication student to contribute in its promotion. After speaking to Mr S.M. Hebbal MD GRAMYA, I realized the craft was so beautiful and is helping us in so many ways, then why not make people aware of it. Documenting the craft was the first step, further I plan to make a look book for the promotion of the wide range of amazing products they have and seek people’s attention. The visit to Chitradurga, Lakkavanahalli and its surroundings was a new experience all together. It open me up into seeing things differently, experiencing and embracing the local feel. Research wasn’t that difficult of a task, but extracting information from the people who only spoke Kannada surely was; So was putting together all the information in an apt manner.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I would like to thank, the esteemed panel of GRAMYA for offering to give their valuable time in enlightening and guiding me from beginning till the end of the research about the banana fiber craft, its production, marketing and uses. I am very grateful to Mr S.M. Hebbal MD GRAMYA for proviing all the required help in retrieving the information. I am also very thankful for to Mr Devraj Supervisor of GRAMYA at Lakkavanahalli for sharing all the information about the craft cluster, the process, production, marketing and showing all places nearby. Without his contribution this document wouldn’t have been complete. My thanks to all the artisans who shared their valuable time and showed me the techniques. In sharing all the vital information and making this experience so very nice and pleasant. I would like to give a vote of thanks to my faculty Mr C.M. Sanjeev, for his valuable guidance and advice. The knowledge and experiences he shared with all of us helped in following the right path and steered towards completion. I would also like to thank all the other faculties who’s guidance and knowledge gave me direction. I cannot forget to mention special thanks to my father Mr Arvind Srivastava, my mother Mrs Ranjana Srivastava and my uncle Mr Srinivas with who’s help and support I was able to visit the cluster in the first place. And I would also like to thank all my friends for giving me feedback from time to time. All of them who shared bits and pieces which when put together, helped me in completing this document.
01.
GRAMYA
10-13
1.1
CURRENT PROGAMMES
14-15
1.2
THEIR PRODUCT RANGE
16-17
02.
HISTORY
18-21
03.
INTRODUCTION
22-25
04.
BANANA FIBER
26-28
4.1
CHARACTERISTICS
29
4.2
ECO-FRIENDLINESS
30-31
05.
ABOUT THE CLUSTER
32-36
5.1
HOW TO REACH LAKKAVANAHALLI 37
5.2
GEOGRAPHICAL AND SOCIOECONOMIC CONDITIONS
38-39
5.3
PLACES NEARBY
40-41
06.
RAW MATERIALS USED
42-45
07.
TOOLS USED
46-51
08.
PROCESS
52-57
09.
DESIGN INTERVENTIONS
58-61
10.
CONCLUSION
62-63
11.
GLOSSARY
64-66
12.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
67
GRAMYA
ABOUT THE NGO. VISION AND MISSION. CURRENT PROGAMMES. ISSUES THEY WORK ON. THE RANGE OF PRODUCTS.
VISION AND MISSION Gramya’s vision is to create a just society, which will provide political, social and economic opportunities for women, especially tribal and dalit women, to help them achieve their rights, to improve their lives and livelihoods and to realize their full potential. They promote child Rights with a focus on the girl child and work on their empowerment. Gramya works with communities to support them in their struggle for survival and development. We work closely with Community Based Organizations, women’s organizations, youth leadership, and likeminded Civil Society Organizations at the local, state, national and International levels to seek justice for marginalized communities. 12
Gramya Turnkey Services (Pvt) Ltd. was incorporated in the year 2003 by the professionals with varied experience in the banking and social sector, fostering entrepreneurial skills among the village women artisans through enhancing the traditional skills and practices inherited through genertions within the communities, over centuries,Unfortunately these skills are getting extinct and are disappearing very fast due to the chain lifestyles and trends in the modern societies. An initiative by Gramya to conserve and promote the traditional skills of rural artisans, is quite challenging and exciting, yet it is satisfying as it has transformed the life of many women and to a great extent arrested their migration to the big metropolis in search of square meals. The initiative will connect directly the urban green conscious consumers to the unique hand made craft products made by the rural artisans, mutually benefitting both. 13
CURRENT PROGRAMMES 300 eligible girls will be enrolled in mainstream school. This is the second year programme and to date they have already enrolled 368 girls and 279 boys (total 647). This was possible because using the bridge school as a base we were able to expand our influence to 50 additional villages this year. Last year we enrolled 100 girls at the Devarkonda hostel and mainstreamed 32 girls from the school into the government Social welfare system hostels. The campaign work has helped us to reach out to remote and needy villages mainly Lambadi thandas which are neglected by mainstream development. For the two programme years they have enrolled a total of 3395 girls and 3402 boys into local primary schools. Provide quality education to 300 girls. 14
Once again in addition to the girls enrolled in the bridge school we have reached out to provide quality education in 50 primary schools in Devarkonda and Chandampet mandals. The outreach is to 2466 girls and 2325 boys with a total of 4791 children from classes one to five. They have provided a series of training inputs to Gramya team as well as 50 government Vidya volunteers (para teachers). This was made possible due to support from Aid-et-Action and our presence in the area. ICCO/Kerk In Actie core support is the base which has helped us to access additional funding and undertake outreach work. Strengthen women’s leadership to prevent violence against women and girl children in two mandal Samakhyas in Chandampet and Devarkonda mandals. In the year of 2015 they continued to work in the two mandals by organizing campaigns and awareness programmes in the 50 project villages. The campaigns have revolved around Right to Education for children, women’s rights, the need to prevent domestic violence against women and the need to protect the girl child and girl babies. Staff have regularly attended the Samakhya meetings and shared their insights regarding women’s issues. We have worked together with the leaders from the Samakhya to address problems which women are facing.
Other reasons are lack of livelihood for men which leads them to torture their wives to bring dowry or simply more money from their parents. Another problem young women face is to be promised marriage and then cheated by their boy friends. Underlying all these problems are patriarchal attitudes and lack of education and assets for women to live on their own. Women continue to suffer severe physical and psychological torture for the welfare of children. Their effort has been to support the local women leaders to take up cases and try to resolve them in accordance with the law. However community justice and patriarchal values have its own logic which are not supportive of women. They effort is to ensure the leadership of women and the welfare of women by promoting humanistic values and supporting the right of victim/survivors to take their own decisions. The weak legal system adds to women’s woes. Promote pro women policy changes.
Gramya has been consistently monitoring the issue of the cradle baby scheme in Nalgonda district through which the government has made possible for parents to give away their baby girls at Primary Health Centers and maternity hospitals in the state. Our effort has been to demonstrate that families particularly mothers want to keep their daughters if they are provided financial support and An analysis of the cases shows that more importantly counseling for the alcoholism continues to be a serious male members in the family ( husband problem leading to violence. and father-in-law.). 15
THE ISSUES THEY FOCUS ON: a. Securing the rights of women and girls, especially to confront violence through organizing and capacity building. b. Eradication of female infanticide and sale of girl babies. c. Access to credit through self-help initiatives. d. Improvement of livelihoods for women and their families. e. Developing models of sustainable agriculture, with a gendered approach. f. Strengthening healthcare systems to ensure women’s reproductive rights. j. Engaging with the state for proper enforcement of various programs, schemes, policies and legislations. Carry out Social Audits of National Rural Employment Programmes.
THEIR PRODUCT RANGE All the products are eco-friendly, hand crafted and natural. The natural fibre products include - hand bags, home products and office line products. Banana fibre is often blended with other natural fibres like river grass, ‘khus’ and hibiscus. Wool and jute are also combined to enhance design and promote innovation in the product line. The Centre piece of the banana craft is the bark of the banana plant. The bark is manually extracted, processed, split into ribbons, twisted by hand, made into spindles using a highly intensive process. These are then hand woven to create rustic yet beautiful contemporary products. All the products are handmade with a rustic look, yet elegant making them more contemporary and appealing. 16
(a)
(c)
(b)
These Images show various products handcrafted using banana by artisans employed by Gramya. Described Clockwise: (a) Window Blindes, (b) Handwoven Clutch purse, (c) Table Mat. 17
HISTORY
HOW DID THE USE OF BANANA FIBER CAME INTO EXISTENCE. HISTORY OF NATURAL FIBERS.
HOW DID THE USE OF BANANA FIBER CAME INTO EXISTENCE? Global warming is a major threat to mankind, To stop and to reverse the effect of global warming, there was a need to replace the nonreversible the effect of global warming, there is a need to replace non- renewable, non-degradable, and synthetic materials with renewable, bio-degradable, and natural material. The best way to bring about the change is to make use of or find innovative uses for agricultural waste which can be used is banana trunk. In India, approximately 5 lakhs tones of banana trunk is discarded as waste every year , after harvesting. Instead, we can extract fiber from hose trunks which has extensive uses in industries like textile, paper, and composite materials. Banana fiber is a very good replacement for synthetic fiber. So this idea struck to a group of 5 friends who started this industry as a measure to reduce agricultural waste and reverse the effects of global warming by using the banana bark make it into fibers and make products out of it. This was helpful in many ways like: it gave employment to a large amount of people especially females, was helpful in giving small scale village industry a boon, helped in reducing agricultural waste, a new use for the natural fiber was introduced. 20
Natural fibers have traditionally been used in all cultures of the world to meet basic requirements of clothing, storage, building material, and for items of daily use such as ropes and fishing nets. People in olden times used various kinds of natural fibers depending on their local availability. The first composite material in history was apparently made with clay and straw in Egypt 3000 years ago to build walls. Hemp was cultivated in China in 2800 BC and is considered one of the oldest natural fibers to be taken in use for making products along with linen. Hemp in Greek and Latin terminology was cannabis that led to the word canvas as hemp was used for making sails of boats. Flax or fine linen was used for burial shrouds of Egyptian pharaohs. Similarly nettle was used for making fishing nets in olden times. India is rich in plant resources and the use of a variety of natural fibers such as banana, pineapple, sisal, hemp, coconut, palm, grasses etc was widely prevalent in olden times. Their use became limited once cotton acquired the prime status in plant fibers. In cotton production, organic cotton accounts for a very small percentage of total cotton production. Silk, linen and jute are other natural fibers that have continued to enjoy popularity. 21
INTRODUCTION
BRIEF INTODUCTION TO THE CRAFT. INITIATIVE TAKEN BY THE GOVERNMENT TO PROMOTE THE CRAFT. BRIEF PROCESS.
INTRODUCTION TO THE CRAFT The craft of using the banana bark to produce fine fibers out of it, and making products using that thin, and strong sustainable and eco friendly fiber. The craft is very simple and doesn’t require any special talents which is one of the reasons why it provides employment to alot of people, giving them opportunity to make a living for themselves. Mostly the ladies of landless families, poor women, widows or local ladies are employed. The working hours are very convenient for the them. The artisans are able to make 300-400 Rs per day with weaving capacity of 1500-2000 m each. However the work is divided depending upon the demand as well as season. Industry is run on Loans provided by government at subsidized rates. Loan cost about 2.5 lac for the duration of 5 years. It is provided by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). It is given under the supervision of gram panchayat,. Monitoring is done by National Fiber Craft Society which is made up of 15 Self Help Groups in 5 villages. Each village consists of 3 SHGs involving about 30 members in each. 24
The process goes like this – the bark is retrieved free of cost from the local banana plantation, considering it is a type of agricultural waste. Then, the bark is soaked in water and further split into thin strands. Then the wet strands are braided into fibers and rolled into spindles. Which are further used for weaving purpose or making the products. The machines used for the production of the products are mostly mechanical and doesn’t require electricity.Various home utility products are produced that are very sturdyfor longer run. Their beautification is done by adding other extra elements like zari, nylon etc; to make it look attractive. 25
BANANA FIBER
WHAT IS BANANA FIBER? CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BANANA FIBER. ECO-FRIENDLINESS.
WHAT IS BANANA FIBER? The ubiquitous banana plant is a popular fruit crop grown in many parts of Karnataka. Besides banana fruit, other parts of the plant like its flower and stem are also used traditionally for cooking. Leaves are used as hygienic dinner plates. The psedostem (bark) of the banana plant is the soul of many beautiful handcrafted banana fiber products. ‘Banana fiber was in use in India since ages for various purposes. It is obtained from the banana plant. This art of making handicrafts out of banana fiber is mainly practiced in the southern parts of India. One of the wide uses even today is for making flower garlands. No social or religious function goes without flowers. And the banana fiber is invariably used as a thread for making floral garlands. In many parts of Karnataka like Mangalore and Mysore, banana fiber thread is used in making jasmine garlands. 28
CHARACTERISTICS OF BANANA FIBER Banana fiber has its own physical and chemical characteristics and many other properties that make it a fine quality fiber. (a) Appearance of banana fiber is similar to that of bamboo fiber and ramie fiber, but its fineness and spinnability is better than the two. (b) The chemical composition of banana fiber is cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. (c) It is highly strong fiber. (d) It has smaller elongation. (e) It has somewhat shiny appearance depending upon the extraction & spinning process. (f) It is light weight. (g) It has strong moisture absorption quality. It absorbs as well as releases moisture very fast. (h) It is bio- degradable and has no negative effect on environment and thus can be categorized as eco-friendly fiber. (i) Its average fineness is 2400NM. (j) It can be spun through almost all the methods of spinning including ring spinning, open-end spinning, bast fiber spinning, and semi-worsted spinning among others. 29
ECO - FRIENDLINESS The products made out of the natural fibers of the banana trunk are ecofriendly and have no adverse effect of any kind on mankind, nor do they disturb the ecological balance. Therefore, the use of such natural products should be encouraged to have a safe and happy earth. Banana fiber and fiber-based products like handy craft items are quickly picking up during the last decade India. With increasing concern for environmental protection and pollution control, the demand for natural and biodegradable fibers and fiber products is increasing. 30
ABOUT THE CLUSTER
LAKKAVANAHALLI. FEATURES OF THE CLUSTER. HOW TO REACH LAKKAVANAHALLI GEOGRAPHICAL AND SOCIOECONOMIC CONDITIONS. PLACES NEARBY.
LAKKAVANAHALLI The Lakkavanahally Natural Fiber Cluster in Chitradurga, with a humble beginning by few poor women under the guidance of IDF and Gramya Turnkey Services (P) Ltd during 2003-04 has traversed a long distance empowering more than 200 families in the surrounding five villages. The artistic skills of these women in hand-crafted products using natural fibers such as banana fiber, river grass, Hibiscus, wool, etc are honed up through the skill up gradation training programs (SUTPs) and Design and Technical Development under the Ambedkar Hasthshilp Vikas Yojana ( AHVY ) of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts). 34
Cluster of villages surrounding the small town of Hiriyur (160 km outside Bangalore) constitutes the Lakkavanhally Natural Fiber Cluster. This cluster works mainly with banana fiber, which is using the remnants of a banana tree to create office, personal, and home furnishing products. Additional products are created using river grass, wool, hibiscus and other naturally available/local resources. The formation of this cluster is one of challenges and hardships, but the strength of the women behind this work is what makes this possible. Highly committed women involved are a part of Self Help Groups, in which a group comprised of 12-15 women, who meet weekly to save a stipulated amount through the activity. The combination of the group’s savings allows them to open up a savings account and take out loans, in addition to forming a support system amongst neighbors. Not only has this activity improved their standard of living, but has also created a livelihood, sustained by the women in distress. (a) (b) (c) (d) (e) (f) (g) (h) (i) (j) (k) (l) (m) (n) (o) (p) 35
Taluk Name : Sira District : Tumkur State : Karnataka Division : Bangalore Language : Kannada Current Time 12:34 AM Date: Wednesday , Nov 09,2016 (IST) Time zone: IST (UTC+5:30) Elevation / Altitude: 802 meters. Above Seal level Telephone Code / Std Code: 08135 Assembly constituency : Sira assembly constituency Lok Sabha constituency : Chitradurga (sc) parliamentary constituency Main Village Name : Changavara Alternate Village Name : Lakkavanahalli G Hatti Pincodes near Lakkavanahalli 572137 ( Sira ) , 572139 ( Tavarekere (Tumkur) ) , 572125 ( Kallambella ) Language Spoken: Kannada
HOW TO REACH LAKKVANAHALLI By Rail
There is no railway station near to Lakkavanahalli in less than 10 km. Tumkur Rail Way Station (near to Tumkur) , Heggere Halt Rail Way Station (near to Tumkur) are the Rail way stations reachable from near by towns. How ever Bangalore City Jn Rail Way Station is major railway station 124 KM near to Lakkavanahalli.
By Road
Sira , Tumkur are the nearby by towns to Lakkavanahalli having road connectivity to Lakkavanahalli. 37
GEOGRAPHICAL AND SOCIO - ECONOMIC CONDITIONS. Lakkavanahalli is a small Village/hamlet in Sira Taluk in Tumkur District of Karnataka State, India. It comes under Changavara Panchayath. It belongs to Bangalore Division . It is located 57 KM towards North from District head quarters Tumakuru. 132 KM from State capital Bangalore. Lakkavanahalli is surrounded by Agali Taluk towards East , Rolla Taluk towards East , Gudibanda Taluk towards North , Madhugiri Taluk towards East . Sira , Madhugiri , Nelamangala , Tumkur are the nearby Cities to Lakkavanahalli. This Place is in the border of the Tumkur District and Anantapur District. Anantapur District Agali is East towards this place . It is near to the Andhra Pradesh State Border. Most of the residents of the Taluk are engaed in farming. 38
PLACES NEAR BY: Chitradurga Fort or as the British called it Chitaldoorg, is a fortification that straddles several hills and a peak overlooking a flat valley in the Chitradurga District, Karnataka, India.The fort was built in stages between the 17th and 18th centuries by the dynastic rulers of the region, including the Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas and Hoysalas as well as the Nayakas of Chitradurga, feudal lords in the Vijayanagar Empire. Folk legend links the hills surrounding the fort to the epic Mahabharata. Vani Vilasa Sagara, popularly known as Mari Kanive is a dam near Hiriyur Taluk, Chitradurga District, in the Indian state of Karnataka. It is the oldest dam in the state. The dam was built by the Mysore Maharajas pre-independence across the river Vedavathi. The dam is an exquisite piece of architecture, an engineering marvel for that time, and provides water to lots of surrounding cities, towns and villages, which are largely dry lands of the Deccan area of Central Karnataka. This dam is the source of domestic water for Hiriyur and Chitradurga. This place is 160 KM from Bangalore on the NH-4 highway and 40 KM from Chitradurga. Chandravalli is a pre-historic site near Chitradurga in Karnataka. The temple here is semi-lunar in shape, and is around 3KM from Chitradurga. This area is a valley that is formed by three hills namely Chitradurga, Cholagudda and Kirabanakallu. Excavations reveal that this area was inhabited since Iron Age. Chandravalli was once known as Chandanavati, which means “in the shape of the moon�. The earthen pots, coins, bowls and other items found here cast a light on the place’s rich history. The cave temple here is built around 80FT below sea level, and is believed to hold mysteries and secrets. 40
(a)
(b) (b)
(d)
(c)
(a) Chitradurga Fort (b) Vani Vilasa Sagara (c) Windmills near Vani Vilasa Sagara (d) Chandravalli Caves. 41
RAW MATERIALS USED
REQUIRED RAW MATERIALS. HOW THEY ARE HELPFUL IN THE PRODUCTION OF THE FINAL PRODUCT.
REQUIRED RAW MATERIALS : The banana bark is the most essential raw material is obtained from nearby villages where banana is produced, Since its an agricultural waste its obtained at very low prices. Besides the bark for the production and finishing of the products made using banana fibers there are some other raw materials required as well. Like, Criss Grass, Korai Grass, Hibiscus thread, Jute thread, Wool, Cotton thread, Silk thread, Nylon thread and Zari etc. Mostly these fibers adds to the beauty and strength of the product so they become a necessity. They are bought by the organization at subsidized rates and provided to various village clusters. Most of these raw materials are imported from nearby villages from Karnataka itself. Some dyes are also used to colour the cotton fibers depending upon the designs of the designer and requirements of the customer. 44
(a)
(b)
(c) (a) Banana bark (b) Banana fibers (c) Cotton threads used for weaving 45
TOOLS USED
REQUIRED TOOLS. CHIROT: PHONEIX CHAKRA. WORKING OF CHIROT: PHONEIX CHAKRA.
REQUIRED TOOLS : The basic tool required for this craft are: (i) Scissors to cut out the dried bark. (ii) CIRCOT-PheonixCharkha for the spinning of the fiber which further helps in strengthening of the fiber. For the processing of the product the tools used are: (iii) The spun fiber is wrapped around a wooden spindles or bobbins that helps in later on weaving process. (iv) A hand operated wooden warping machine is used for warping (preparation of the weaving process). (v) Handloom (hand operated) weaving machines are used for preparation of most of the products. 48
49
CIRCOT-PHEONIX-CHARKHA Banana Value Chain (QEID) (CIRCOT) CIRCOT-Phoenix Charkha is a pedal driven machine for spinning coarse long-staple fibers like banana pseudostem fibers at the cottage level. This charkha can produce relatively fine yarn with sufficient uniformity from natural fibers which are other wised difficult to spin The fiber after extracted is cleaned and dried before used for spinning. Fineness of the yarn produced depends on the fineness of the fibre used and feeding rate.
50
Apart from woven and non-woven fabrics and their products, it was also used directly for preparing the handy craft item using fiber.
WORKING OF THE CIRCOT-PHEONIX-CHARKHA The paddling action by the operator puts the flywheel with a large diameter in rotation. The operator hand feed the fibres in between a pair of rollers which take forward the fibre through axial orifice on the spinning mechanism. Spinning mechanism consists of flyer with hooks. The yarn formed after spinning is wound over a bobbin. In CIRCOT-Phoenix Charkha the flyer and the bobbin are driven independently. The differential in the RPM decides the twist per inch (TPI) imparted to the yarn. The TPI of yarn produced can be altered by altering RPMs of the flyer and the bobbin by changing wheels in the drive mechanism.
51
The main advantage of CIRCOT-Phoenix Charkha is that the quality of yarn produced from it is largely independent of spinning speed. Yarn non-uniformity due changes in spinning speed is reduced to a great extent. An operator with sufficient skill can now achieve better productivity by running the charkha at higher speeds.
PROCESS
EXTRACTION. SPLITTING. SEASONING. SPINNING. WARPING. WEAVING.
Extraction: the bark is retrieved free of cost from the local banana plantation, considering it is a type of agricultural waste.
Splitting: each extracted bark is about 2m long, with the thickness of 0.3m; so in order to make fibers out of it they are split into separate pieces. Its torn using hand since the dried bark is not very strong hence it becomes easily tear-able. Each bark can be split into 8-10 strands. 54
Seasoning: the strands are immediately put in water to soak, this helps in strengthening the banana bark strands.
Spinning: the fiber is fed to the hooks that is further attached to the rollers in the circot. The wheel is rotated and due to the spinning mechanism the fiber gets twisted and is spun together. The length is achieved by combining 5-8 strands knotted at the end one after another and spun together. The fiber produced is relatively fine with sufficient uniformity. It is further wound over a bobbin or a spindle and is ready for the further use. 55
56
Warping: the parallel winding of warp ends from more than one or several winding packages, like a cone or a cheese, onto one warp beam (which is part of the loom). It also helps in deciding the sequence of the yarns according to the desired design, For example if more than one colours or yarns are to be used then how many warp ends of the first colour you should have, before the next one starts.
Weaving: The banana fiber is lastly woven with other yarns like cotton, nylon or zari etc; by interlacing long threads passing in one direction with others at a right angle to them. Finally the woven products are ready for further processing depending on the designs its cut or stiched or pasted to obtain the desired results. The marketing and promotion of the products is managed by Gramya. 57
DESIGN INTERVENTIONS
VARIOUS CHANGES THAT TOOK PLACE OVER THE YEARS. INTRODUCTION OF CROCHET IN BANANA FIBER INDUSTRY. VARIETY OF CROCHET PRODUCTS AVAILABLE.
Over the years the products have gone through a lot of modifications in order to gain people’s attention, Also due to the extensive promotion of handicrafts and the changes in people’s choices as well as their lifestyle and affordability the modifications were required in order to stay in the market. Although the basic process remains the same but the finishing is changed depending upon the designs, recent updates like: choices of colours, prints etc, upgradation in technology and most importantly customers’ demands. One of the most Interesting intervention was introducing crochet into this industry. It was new and easy and gained a lot of attention. The process was the same as normal crochet but only the fiber changed. 60
CROCHET In Lakkavanahalli banana fiber crochet was introduced to a few interested artisans through a design workshop held by the DCH. Designers Rajshekhar Narayan and Gunjan Jain trained about 5-6 females via this 15 day workshop. 2 workshops are held every year, via which new budding artisans learn this skill and the old ones are taught new techniques. After attending this workshop the artisans are registered under DCH which enables them to attend, showcase and participate in any exhibition all over India free of cost. This helps them in getting acknowledged, explore more and learn innovative things or skills. A wide range of crochet products are made: pen stands, bed side mats, table mats, coasters, car seats covers, cushion covers, square bag, shopping bag, wine bottle or water bottle holder, gypsy bag, round bottom bag, half moon bag, pot bag, 61
CONCLUSION First of all, what are Natural Fibers? Natural fibers are any fibers that come from plants or animals. They are biodegradable, compose easily and do not create any Synthetic Fibers are things like acrylic, nylon, polyester, spandex and polypropylene. Synthetic fibers are petrochemical-based (basically plastic), mass-produced, they don’t decompose as nicely and have major implications on our health the health of the planet and even the economy. In addition, synthetic fibers do not biodegrade, meaning they sit nearly endlessly in the landfill when you toss them out, not breaking down like natural materials do. This craft was started as a measure to prevent or rather reduce the effect of global warming, reducing the use of synthetic fibers by bringing natural fiber into use. This idea gave us a lot than just preventing the global warming in a way; it gave employment to a lot of people, and it helped in reducing the agricultural waste. If people become aware of the benefits of using natural fibers and the designs are kept updated more people will get attracted to it, Given the right support this craft can do wonders which will actually be very helpful. Though it’s a very simple craft yet it requires a lot of patience. It may seem simple but it requires a lot of hardwork throughout the process. Thus, the work of the artisans are appreciated. The overall experience of learning about this craft was amazing. 63
GLOSSARY A Audits- an official inspection of an organization’s accounts, typically by an independent body. Affordability- Believed to be in one’s financial means. Alcoholism- addiction to the consumption of alcoholic drink. Adverse- harmful; unfavourable. Agricultural waste- waste produced as a result of various agricultural operations. Axial orifice- an opening around the axis. Altering RPMs- revelutions per minute occur in turn repeatedly. B Boon- a thing that is helpful or beneficial. Bio-degradable- capable of being decomposed by bacteria or other living organisms. Bobbin- a cylinder or cone holding thread, yarn, or wire, used especially in weaving and machine sewing. C Contemporary- belonging to or occurring in the present. Composite- made up of several parts or elements. Cellulose- an insoluble substance which is the main constituent of plant cell walls and of vegetable fibres. D DCH- Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) E 64
Eradication- the complete destruction of something. Extensive- covering or affecting a large area. Enforcement- the act of compelling observance of or compliance with a law, rule, or obligation. Entrepreneurial- characterized by the taking of financial risks in the hope of profit; Eco - friendly- not harmful to the environment. Ecological balance- is a theory stipulating that natural conditions, including numbers of various animal and plant species, remain stable on their own through variations over time. Excavations- the action of uncovering something, especially an archaeological site.
H
G
P
Hemicellulose- any of a class of substances which occur as constituents of the cell walls of plants and are polysaccharides of simpler structure than cellulose. Hamlet- a small settlement, generally one smaller than a village I Intervention- the action or process of getting involved. Innovation- the action or process of alteration or revolution. IDF- Intermediate Distribution Frame. L
Lignin- a complex organic polymer deposited in the cell walls of many plants, F making them rigid and woody. Lambani thandas- an institution of tribal Folk epic- a piece of epic literature panchayat. about the people of the civilization and the commonality of their experiences, M wisdom, and values. Flywheel- a heavy revolving wheel in Modifications- the action of chaning. a machine which is used to increase the machine’s momentum and thereby N provide greater stability or a reserve of available power. Non- reversible- unable to be turned the Fostering- encourage the development other way round. of (something, especially something Non- renewable- not capable of being desirable). renewed.
Gendered- of, specific to, or biased Panchayath- South Asian political towards the male or female sex. system, which is ruled by five members.
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Patriarchal- relating to or denoting a system of society or government controlled by men. Prevalent- widespread in a particular area or at a particular time. Psedostem- false stem. R Rustic- of or relating to the countryside; rural. S Straddles- sit or stand with one leg on either side of. Sustainable- able to be maintained at a certain rate or level. Synthetic- (of a substance) made by chemical synthesis, especially to imitate a natural product. Spindles- a rod or pin serving as an axis that revolves or on which something revolves. Sturdy- strongly and solidly built. SHGs- Self Help Groups Spinnability- the quality of being suitable for spinning or the capability of being spun (used of textile fibers). Semi-lunar- shaped like a half-moon or crescent. Semi-worsted- arrangement of fibers in a single ply yarn Subsidized- support (an organization or activity) financially. T TPI- Threads Per Inch. Taluk- an administrative district for taxation purposes, typically comprising a number of villages. W Wound- wrapped around. 66
BIBLIOGRAPHY ARTISANS MET Banana Fiber production team: Tippy Rama 50yr/f, Soumya 18yr/f, Rangaswami 52yr/m, Lakshmi Devi 38yr/f, Shardama 54yr/f, Honnuramma 52 yr/f, Lakshmi ma 45yr/f, Kariya ma 56 yr/f, Parvati 38yr/f. Hand Crochet team: Manjula 42yrs/f, Sarita 20yr/f, Rukkamma 68yr/f, Renuka 30yr/f, Shilpa 22yr/f, Swetha 18yr/f, Sindhu 33yr/f. WEBSITES REFERRED Wikipedia Cauvery Crafts http://www.gramya.co.in/ http://www.gramya.co.in/aboutus.html http://www.gramya.co.in/products.html http://www.gramya.org.in/ http://www.onefivenine.com/india/ villages/Ramanagara/Magadi/ Lakkenahalli http://en.climate-data.org/ location/993080/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana http://www.shubhyatra.com/karnataka/ arts-crafts.html http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/ tp-national/tp-kerala/putting-bananastem-to-better-use/article3131294.ece http://cauverycrafts.com/craft http://www.arthacollections.com/
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artisans/basket http://www.craftmark.org/sites/default/ files/Natural%20Fibre%20Craft.pdf http://tnp o ompu har.org/blog/tag/ banana-fibre-craft/ http://www.thehindu.com/todays-paper/ tp-national/tp-karnataka/Weavinga-livelihood-from-banana-fibre/ article14742304.ece http://nhb.gov.in/report_files/banana/ BANANA.htm http://idfdevelopment.org/programmes/ natural-fiber-cluster-development http : / / w w w. e w o r l d t r a d e f a i r. c o m / banana-fibre-basket-manufacturersbangalore.html http://www.karnatakatourism.org/ policy/art_&_craft_village.pdf http://www.indianmirror.com/crafts/ cra3.html http://circot.res.in/circot/aboutus/ divisions/quality-evaluationand-improvement-division-qeid/ accomplishments-achievements/bananavalue-chain http://www.sargaalaya.com/craftvillage/ category.php?id_category=39 h t t p : / / w w w. d e c c a n h e r a l d . c o m / content/300649/election/json/ homepage_liveblog_feed.json http://www.goroadtrip.com/explore/ india/karnataka/chitradurga http://www.indiaenvironmentportal. org.in/content/176/artisans-the-untoldstory/
Fashion Communication Department National Institute of Fashion Technology Bengaluru